Building a Replacement Tele Neck from Scratch Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2020
- Here is the basic process of how I build a replacement neck.
This is a simple 2 piece neck with a birdseye maple fretboard, flame maple neck, walnut skunk stripe and nickel silver frets. You could do the same procedure with any kind of wood for a paddle style neck. 
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Thank you very much for the video. It gave me very interesting ideas,
NIce videos. I just finished a few all maple necks and I had some marks left on the maple after rounding the fret ends... I even had everything taped off. The maple fboards are very unforgiving, they show all your inadequacies....lol. Rosewood or ebony much easier to hide stuff.
Good rule of thumb - if you think you're done sanding, you still have a couple more hours to go. Use light, preferably natural light, to check for scratches. They stand out like a sore thumb when light is cast over them almost parallel.
the nut slot on my new tele neck is way too narrow, about 1mm. I’m thinking to wrap up my fretboard radius gauge with sand paper to widen the gap, a sound plan to you, or theres other easier/safer way to do this please? many thanks
That sanding method would widen the gap in both directions shifting the scale length of contact from the nut slot closer to the bridge. The rest of your equal temperament frets will be out and intonation may be impossible for lower gauges.
To "widen" your nut slot you should scribe a line about 2.5-3mm from the current nut slot line with a scalpel and pare away the waste with a sharp chisel. From there you can use a flat file or radius gauge w/ sandpaper to file the nut slot.
I notice a lot of guys building their tele necks 1" plus .25" fretboard. Is there a reason? I make mine with .75" plus ..25" fretboard (total 1")
1" total will get you pretty close to Fender spec. I often get set up jobs asking for lower action but they don't want their picking hand scraped by the saddle height adjustment screws. Often this is solved with a simple shim or using Fender's break angle adjuster in the heel. Building in extra height give you the option to have the neck sit hight out of the pocket and sand down to a place where screws sit flush with the saddles but you get low action on traditional bridges. You can also plane in a 1-2 degree break angle or more for TOM or Bigsby set ups.
At 6:42 what did you rub on the oscillating sander?
Crepe block. I get mine from lee valley
Is there any advantage for putting the truss rod through the back?
Putting the rod through the back would only be necessary in a 1 piece neck where you don't have a neck/fretboard glue joint. Otherwise, putting a skunk stripe down the back with a 2 piece neck is more an aesthetic choice.
Why the skunk stripe if it has a separate fretboard?
Some customers like the look!
You literally skip much of the process.