Engine "Break In" on Dirt Bikes | Myth or Mandatory?
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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I know that you have all wondered this in the past. Is “engine break in” a real thing or not. My personal opinion is that it is completely over blown. I believe that on your first tank of gas and the second tank of gas, you should ride your dirt bike pretty much how you are going to ride it on all the other tanks of gas. There, I said it.
Think about it. These motors are going to last less than 200-300 hours before needing to be rebuilt in most cases. That is on the long end. Most guys I know are rebuilding their bikes somewhere between 100 and 150 hours, regardless of whether or not they are 2 stroke or 4 stroke. I do not believe that doing some elaborate “break in” procedure effects the motor in any measurable way during those 100 or 150 hours. Race teams don’t do engine break in. Yes, I know that they rebuild the bikes each week, so it doesn’t really matter from a longevity standpoint. Lets examine that a bit more though. Don’t you think the damage would be done right up front? If there was measurable damage from pushing the motor very hard in the first hour, I don’t think the race teams would do it since they have to race those motors for a few hours. They certainly don’t want them to fail at all. That is money lost for them.
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I agree for the most part. I would still do a couple heat cycles though personally.
" I shoot guns " - Kyle
Now I like the channel even more!
Same!😄
Chris Howard but but.... I'm a liberal and that triggers me. Lol
Hugh Mongus why tho? Isn't that liberal life boring?
Daniel Grishchuk IDK, would probably make the world a better place if all the liberals just followed each other off a cliff or something. Lol
Dirt bikes and guns make life fun and interesting. Lots of similarities in both sports. Learn to use your equipment BEFORE you smother it with mods. Both are fun and rewarding, but can be dangerous. Bring a med kit when doing either.
If it doesn't blow up in the first 5 minutes then you're good 👍
Bro you might just be the smartest guy out there 😅
Hey I have no compression when kicking and it won't turn over
@@dyllangrimm2779 Respectfully how do you know it doesn't have any compression if it won't turn over? Generally you don't have compression because of a ring or piston failure.
@@JamesPiccone how do you test it
@@dyllangrimm2779 With a compression gauge that you hook up via spark plug hole, then turn the engine over and read the gauge. I've never done that though, I can tell if I have compression or not. Even with little to no compression the engine should still turn over and run with some throttle, won't have any power though.
My engine builder always says half a hour or a hour just calm riding after that you can go full send😄
good advice
He must be wrong if you have an engine (builder )
Floris Heuperman What happens if you don’t run the engine before riding it hard? I just changed the carb on my bike and the top end lacks fuel. Can’t even pull the throttle back more than half way or it’ll bog.. But I’m noticing each day it’s getting better and bugging less.. I was starting to believe I ordered another cheap carb but after watching this maybe I need to just keep riding it and see if it continues to improves.. brand new rider, trying to learn as I go.
@@aaronturner8042 jet up your main before you detonate it or raise your clip height.
What condition are your reeds in ?,when was your silencer repacked?, how many hrs on your top end?
These all affect your jetting other than changing your carby.
David Griggs Thanks for the help! The bike is brand new I just decided to change the carb after watching multiple RUclips videos telling me to do so on these cheap pitbikes. I recently ended up jus ordering a 30mm nibbi carb should be here soon. im thinkin the current carb I installed is just another cheap carb (pz27). I’m hoping the nibbi is plug and play...
Honda XR’s are the cockroaches of the motorcycle world haha, After ww3 there will be roaches and xr’s left
Chuck Finley my XR 125 ran on 300ml of oil for 200 miles no problem 😂😂
Literally what i have said as well!!!!
I had a 03 xr 80 and that thing was a tank. We beat the shit out of that thing and it refused to quit.
I love seeing stuff like this, 1 of my 5 bikes is an xr400. And I think its my favorite of them all.
Got a '92 xr100r and it will literally never die lol
I think you're exactly right, the factory's covering it's bases. When I read the break-in procedures for my 250X, which include 15:1 mix and a piston inspection after 30 minutes, I was a little ticked at my dealer for not doing it as part of the dealer prep or even mentioning it. As I continued reading the owner's manual, I concluded that I'm not capable of riding the bike at a level that would justify that much maintenance, but that I needed to apply common sense and do right by my investment. Thank you for validating my conclusion and for sharing what you've learned, it really helps! Keep up the good work
Same here I have a 250x as well and it says "never use premix more than a few hours old" LOL
@@eddiekelley527 real shit? im glad ive never seen that in my manual, i wouldve pissed myself laughing, ive let my 250sx sit in my garage over winter with gas in it, go to take it out, shake the bike a little bit to mix up the gas and oil again, starts first or second kick and im off, rides perfectly fine, some of these people think their bikes are disney princesses, its a fucking dirtbike, they're made to have you ride the piss outta them
Half your fmf sticker is missing, that’s crucial horsepower your losing out on. Oh I bet it’s all because you didn’t break it in right..
😉
I got crazy with the pressure washer!
Dirt Bike Channel look way much better without the sticker anyway!!!
Ya gotta get that back on.. The KLEB Says its "Plus 10 Horsepower" LOL
hahaha right went from 10 extra HP to 5HP
Kyle has it right here, break in had some validity before nano finishes and oxide coatings but now it's all about safety in case the bike has build issues. Frequent oil changes it the first 5hrs is a good idea to flush FOD from the inner workings.
What is FOD? I have a new 125cc 4 stroke scooter and I want to break it in properly. I had the same scooter previously it was bought new but that was a few years ago. I ignored the break in period and my top end speed was not as fast as what I could find when I was checking reviews online.
@larryhathaway6294 FOD is foreign Object Damage. If you are afraid of break in Damage just stay half throttle or less for the first tank of gas to keep the rod from grooving to one side of the crank. That's not common these days.
With break-in, I'm really not worried about wear, I'm worried about a piston/ring seizure. Modern piston rings come with a teflon outer coating which is meant to quickly seal to the bore after about an hour of running. During that process, the end-gap is going to open up noticeably, and your end-gap spec includes room for this. If you go to the dunes and give it hell before that happens, you might run out of gap and seize. So I think Kyle's advice is spot-on. Avoid big sustained full power top-gear pulls for the first couple hours. If you ride technical terrain, you're not stressing that top end at all. The people who have issues with break-in procedure are the Banshee, snowmobile, and 2-stroke street bike people. Maybe a few top MX pros could too.
By the way, those engines that they go full send on, are built with a wider end-gap than ours. They ride harder than we do, and their motors are built hotter than ours. They have a short life for this reason; they give themselves less ring. But they get a new motor next week so who cares?
Man I like how Kyle gets so into it. I never broke in my 4 stroke and it still runs just fine. Just go full send
did the same thing with my 2020 yz450f, too excited and not patient enough to go slow, still runs great
@@crashtest603 exactly i don't know how anyone could contain themselves enough do do a proper break in
"You need to give time for your rings to seat properly" These rings aren't just walking from the park trying to find their way home😂
No you don’t. It they are in right it’s good to go! Rip on!!
Nah its like we just throw the rings ontop of the piston, so you gotta wait until they go in the piston 😂
They already seat in properly upon building thw engine 😂😂😂😂
Now your talking. I've been waiting for too long to get this information. It really helped me with my worries. Thanks man.
Worry for what lol all u need to do is a couple heat cycles that’s it, u people always complicate break in and similar words when comes to bikes 😅 by sound of it you’ve never had a new bike
@@connorwilson8078 look who's talking with a goober break-in cycles parroting other people's information. New dirt bikes don't even require heat cycles 🤣
2-stroke procedure for me; install, 1 warm up/cool down, let her eat.
I began smelling 2 stroke smoke at 0:20. Who else can smell the sound? o.O
I can!
I thought it was just me...😂
Was it the moped running past the window
synesthesia
Luan 333 I don’t care what anyone says... its a beautiful smell 🤤
Let it warm up and let the things expand properly, then let it cool a bit before you shut it off. Change the oil as the manual says. Those are more important than the break in.
Old Skool Dude here....and not of the construction orange persuasion. I have the tried and true- although fully modded out (By Jeff Fredette) KDX 220. Back in 2005, Fredette took a bone stock- not even run yet, bike to (Spain??? I could be wrong but it was the ISDE) and packed it in his suitcases. True story. It was in 2013 AMA featuring his bike. Anyways, no break in. Just a reliable lawn mower of a bike...he won that year- along with 33 other times and finished 114 out of 115 tried. No break in. Ever! Now I do a little break in after each top end, I am on my 4th...but no issues.
Something to consider is, each of these engines are dyno tested before they're put into the frame. Dyno testing is no walk in the park...so in my mind, a long, multi step break in process is not necessary. The engine has already had its neck rung before it reaches the show room floor.
Matt Erwin exactly. They are all put through the mill before they even go in the bike.
Exactly
Doubt it
Is this true for every single motor they produce? I toured the Skoda factory in the Czech Republic this summer and they only test a small percentage of the motors they produce. They don't dyno test every single motor, that would slow down production immensely. Whether every engine is dyno tested before it hits the show room or not, I still agree with Kyle that breaks in seem like a load of crap...
every bike is ridden on a rolling road for a systems test. Through all of the gears and up to the rev limiter
I agree with Kyle 100 percent. When I rebuilt mine at just under 100 hrs the first ride I didn't kill it but I still rode it like normal. Then a couple weeks later I rode a 2 day dual sport 100 mi per day. 60 hrs on rebuild now and running great.
Very informative. Being a newbie I was almost losing sleep over this...
All major manufacturers have put lots of time and money into their design and engineering. They don't want people to have problems with their motorcycles. Motorcycles in general are pretty durable and dirt bikes in particular are nearly bulletproof. So I agree with you on the break in... don't worry about it too much. Just have fun with the bike and stay on top of regular maintenance. Unless there is a catastrophic incident, it will surely last a VERY long time.
I just watched a video on two identical engines both freshly rebuilt in the exact same manner with the exact same parts. One was broken in very gently with no redline runs and the other got 80% throttle and redline banging in the first heat cycle. After 1000 miles they were both torn down and there was no difference in any tolerance /dimension of any engine part, with the exception of piston ring gap (very slight difference). Engine compression was identical. Dyno runs were obviously not done because the "before" runs would ruin the experiment by doing a wide-open run on the engine that is supposed to be done gently.
Another good video, thanks.
Well said, great stuff!
My bikes speak to me through the throttle.
A new piston feels in your palm just like a cold engine where you are not supposed to twist the throttle passed the bog until it warms up and the bog disappears. This, on the 1st gas tank, happens exactly at half throttle and you shouldn't exceed it nor prolong it while bogging. Shift next gear instead and pick up rolling speed from torque. Don't overburden your torque on uphills either. Better to stay off extreme uphills for the first hours unless you can climb them by rolling without ever reaching the bog.
On the 2nd gas tank the limit rises to 70% and on your third and final break-in tank, just don't pin it open yet. Wait for the fourth!
That's all i ever do, and i measure piston hours and change rings once before i change the piston.
i've never had a blown engine in 20 years!
Thanks for all the great videos brother in dirt! 💪
Sounds more like it takes you 20yrs to break the engine in lmao
@@justconcentratee No, it takes forever to need a piston change and not a single cylinder swap in 20 years or so my bro. (2x4T and 2x2T bikes)
Feel your new piston at your grip!
@@Achilleas7 I know it was jokes lol
@@justconcentratee no problem brother in dirt!
My original comment is about a joke too, the joke on us with broken engines!
come over, i hope you enjoy the channel, make sure to browse playlists for some order in the chaos!
I have never broken in a new bike i always make sure my motor is good and warm before putting stress on it. As for guns like you were talking about i am a firearms instructor for a living and probably shoot close to 80,000 rounds a year of 5.56 and close to the same in pistol maybe 20,000 rounds from a precision rifle and i can promise you barrel brake in is a complete myth i get close to 50-60k rounds threw my 5.56 before i need to re barrel and not once have i done a brake in procedure.
Thanks for your comment.
C B I never change my barrels and they last me. I have never broken in a gun before, just sighted in cuz I promise when I sight a gun in those rounds are on target. 60,000 rounds is a lot of ammo through an AR15, I think the military replaces the uppers around 60k rounds right?
Yeah.. Me too.. I never do any break in procedure to my bikes, just ride it normally as i usually do.
All "break in" means is to keep the cylinder pressures and temperatures lower during the initial wear contact of rings/pistons. Because this can change the metallurgy of the contact surfaces which will affect wear over time.
This applies to any engine you want to last.
Most people/racers replace their dirtbike every couple years and give their problems to the new owner.
I'm a fan of normal riding - not taking it easy. I had my aircraft engine rebuilt a few years ago. Aircraft rebuilds run $20,000+ so you really want to follow the break-in procedure. They recommend running it at full/normal power varying RPM from time to time for the first ten hours. This is to set the rings. So, I ride my bike like I usually ride when I break it in.
Sounds close to what we do with fresh race engines. Do an oil change after a couple hours of running to get the assembly lube and any metal out. No extended wide open throttle, vary RPMs as much as possible, use engine braking instead of just pushing in the clutch. This pulls vacuum in the cylinder and oil up to the rings and also expands the rings helping everything "bed in" evenly. This is how we break in car engines that will be run on road courses wide open at 10,000+ rpm for hours.
Exactly, the rings don't seat well at lower rpms, I mean they can, but Imo the best "break in" is a hard break in.
Mark Gunnison dirtbike arent fucking airplanes
Most informative video on 2 stroke break in I've seen. Everything you need to know @ 2:18. Thank you
cheers
Well, in my opinion, just take it easy the first couple of rides/hours, or until you have to full it up again.
Then go hard.
It also depends on if you have just rebuilt with a forged or cast piston. Forged pistons take longer to warm and adapt to heat. Bottom line : Don't overthink it, just be smart. Take it easy for a little while and then just ride!
My manual says to replace piston/rings somewhere around 10-12 hours (not that I do) so if you're supposed to follow the manual and go half throttle for first 10 hours you will be riding with new top end all the time and never go full throttle. A year and a half ago I put a new top end on my 2 stroke and went full throttle first day, still runs great.
I think the most important part of riding is to rev it, but also drop down a gear while engine braking. This (supposedly) brings oil to upper parts of the rings.
I belive this method only applies to 4 Strokes. Topends are lubricated by the fuel.... not crankcase in a 2t.
Agree with kyle , i just change the oil after first 200kms either four or 2 stroke never had a problem.
@@greatestevar same as 4stroke just under front sprocket.
I bought a bike with a brand new top end and no brake in procedure no problems 1000+ hours later and the bike is a 01 Yamaha yz426f.
Totally agree. I broke my new 250x in with a 52 mile enduro. First tank at 40:1, 50:1 at the fuel stop and 60:1 ever since... using Honda sp2, cuz it’s blue.
I've been a professional mechanic for over 45 years. When the job is done, send it down the road! I've never had an issue with any motor where I said to myself, gee, I wish I'd of broke in the motor. I used to worry as a young mechanic, but when you work flat rate, you absolutely don't do anything you don't have to.
My friend broke in his Husqvarna TC 125 2017 after a top end rebuild, new piston and honed cylinder.....he just warmed it up really good, like let it idle for 10minutes, and then he rode in less than half rpm for like a 2hrs, then he went normaly....bike still runs great
4-stroke = valve adjustment, constant oil changes, too much extra work, too heavy
2-stroke = no maintenance, just ride.
Lazy
2-stroke = rebuild every month 😂😂😂😂😂😂
It was a joke chill 😂
thats the most false thing i have ever seen
$150 every 3 rides on piston kit
@@bbb8775 what kind of riding? And how many hours per ride?
Thank you for this video. I have a 2021 YZ250X (bought brand new) an I didn’t really do a break in procedure (just rode it easy for the first tank of gas) and I was I bit worried about my engine not lasting as long or running properly. I can now rest easy now knowing it shouldn’t be a problem. Thanks again!
Great video...My Yamaha 250x manual says "dont use premix more than few hours old"
LOL...sometimes I think manuals are co-written by attorneys..
In my old ass YZ250 (1999) I run premix through it thats like 6 months old haha
Good vid, ride sensibly a tank or 2. Jeff Slavens has a great break in period video also. 🏁
I’ve always run my 2 strokes at 24:1 first 2 tanks and no more then half throttle on fresh piston and never had an issue ever
Yeah and if you went to full throttle for a few bursts during that period you wouldn't have had any issues either.
Covering their A C Y A? The hell's one of those? 🤣
Yeah confused too
Well said Kyle . Couldn’t agree more . In fact , I even lean a little further the other way . I break my stuff in hard .. not stupid about it .. but I open it up good in the first few hours .. full throttle blasts mixed with hard decal engine braking . This goes for my dirt bikes .. quads and side x sides I’ve had .. snowmobile. I even break in my new trucks this way . I’ve never had any kind of engine trouble with anything . No burning oil . No premature wear . One thing i do with 4 stokes which I’m surprised the manufacturers don’t say to in the manual . I change the oil after the first ride . Other than that .. giver !
💯
I agree with Kyle, there is a lot of people out there that think the bikes gonna last 10x longer if you do a break in procedure but it’s just simply not the case, my rule of thumb I always get it up to temp, shift through all gears, and I let it cool down, and then I’m good to go.
I usually do a top end every 100 or so hours. For a break in process, I just start it and let it warm for a little, and turn it off. Then do the process a few more times and then rip it like hell, doesn’t cause any problems and they last another 100.
that's it, were fighting. I break my bike in with 200 hours and an oil change every 10 minutes. 😡
THATS IT???¿ ITS SUPOSED TO BE EVERY 10 SECONDS!!!!
@@mrsendy4821 Right!! I hope your keeping up on your air filter too, yamaha recommends a new filter every 5 minutes of ride time!
Back in the 80's I certainly think it was Nessasary, probably not so much today.
-Mr.Old Guy
Is.that true with 4 stroke on and off road bike like the ktm 500 excf picking one up soon the book said exactly what u said and i was told to do oil change 1st hr of use then use the break in oil again then use synthetic oil because it makes the rings to slippery to use on 2nd oil change also i shoot guns to black guns matter
As a Nitro RC / Mini engine specialist I would say that break in is absolutely necessary. When you have a fresh new piston, rings or bottom end it's a good idea to at least idle for some time and then gradually work into throttle as recommended by the book. This is mainly for engine rebuilds though I would imagine a brand new bike comes pre broken in from the factory. Always check your bore specs when slapping in a new piston. If the tolerances are too tight or too loose you could cause catastrophic failure. It's always better to go with the tighter bore tolerance followed by a proper break in.
Pretty much bang on about everything, the only thing you really need to do is let the rings seat properly with the cylinder by running lower revs and high engine loads, bigger bang pushes the rings out harder to the cylinder wall and files down to a perfect seal, only takes about an hr then after that go full send
one or two mild heat cycles and they're good to go. There is a needed break in procedure, as in don't go full bore immediately off the start.
Break in procedures are generally from the old days when cams needed to break in otherwise you'd destroy it. anymore that's not needed. especially on a 2 stroke.
True: the ONLY consideration on a 2-stroke is the piston ring(s). If you're worried about it, just mix in a little more oil on the first tank. After that, the bike's race-ready! Even during the first tank, you still want to give it bursts of full throttle in its power band, just to set the ring(s).
So glad to hear this. I’ve had a few years of long range competition shooting where I’ve shot out 10+ barrels in one year and i have most definitely found out that other than sending one initial patch down in case anything was left in there from machining I have found that whether i do a full break in process or just shoot it’s the same end result all other things being equal.
I totally agree with him. The first day you buy a bike just have fun Don’t worry about overheating 🥵 just have fun plus those are good quality ones.
Im an automotive technician and I know for sure there is a break in period for an engine. 2 strokes are not as important the rings just need to seat. You don't have to do any crazy procedure but on both bikes you want to operate the throttle in bursts, not steady throttle. The rings get pushed out and create a perfect mating to the cylinder. On a 4 stroke there will be materiel in the oil. You want to burst throttle for 3 heat cycles then change the oil and coolant.
If you ever tour the Corvette plant you get to see them start one for the first time and they are not easy on it.Some of them go right from the assembly line to the dyno.
some people believe running it hard helps the rings seal because of the combustion pressure. this makes the most sense to me. it seems weird to let the rings rub lightly against the honing.
This video is the equivalent of "well my car runs fine when I don't change the oil for 30k miles so why would I change it at 3k miles." Something doesn't have to go wrong or run wrong for you to practice preventative maintenance.
2 strokes need more oil in the mix and take it easy until crank bearings, cylinder, piston and exhaust power valves are properly lubed. this time can be cut down if everything is adequately oiled when assembled. 2 stroke rings don't take long but do require running time to get to peak compression. varies from engine to engine. 4 Strokes have rings, valve seats, cams, cam chain, etc to get worn in and adjusted via valve clearance and cam chain tensioner after break in running. multiple oil changes on both 2 and 4 stroke transmissions are a good idea to remove debris that clutch, gears and other mechanical systems will put out on break in. Doing this will minimize premature engine wear. In short, 2 strokes need more oil in the premix and don't be too hard on it till optimal engine lubrication and compression is achieved. (also depends on whether the crank is new or if just top end done). 4 strokes, as long as the valve train in the head in the head and piston/cylinder was well oiled when assembled, should already be adequately oiled as the engine oil doesn't come from the fuel, but the engine oil from bottom end. But the valve train needs to be broken in and adjusted. rings also need run time to properly seat to achieve optimal compression. Each engine design has different break in procedures. I, on the most part agree with Kyle that the manufacturers are covering their butts with break in guidelines. If I saw someone start up a bike with 0 ride time on it, allow almost no warm up time and ride it like they were trying to pull a holeshot but steady till something bad happens, I wouldn't give him warrantee.
What about the premix? Do you run it thicker with oil for the first few tanks or just run with the regular mix?
Regular mix all the time.
You were certianly right Kyle this topic struck a few nerves( took balls to take this one on !). I could go on and on about my two wheel racing career ,30+ years of experience and dozens of race bikes I ve owned ( both 2t and 4t).In a nutshell I agree 100% with you .
I agree with you for the most part. Whenever I rebuild any engine I put it through a small break in period. But its fairly simple, I pretty much just rev it and let it idle up to temp and let it sit to room temp. Then I just go out and have fun. I know I'm not riding this bike at it's full potential so I just do that more to make sure there are no leaks or other issues. Good video though!
Before watching, my 2024 yz250 manual says tonuse 15:1 mix for 30 min and stay under 1/2 throttle. Let the cylinder cool down completely. Then go ride it for another 30 min under 3/4 throttle. After that full hour youre good to go on 30:1. Basically is what the manual says. But im interested to see what this video says. I will edit after 🤙EDIT: I completely agree with what youve said, dont rip on it for the first tank and after that its probably good to go
I think the exact same way! It’s a dirtbike for crying out loud.. ride it! Hope all is well for you🤙🏼
something worth pointing out is race bike tolerances are on the loose side specifically so they don't need a long break in, aren't tight and make full power straight away. whereas a bike like a dualsport that is built to last will likely be on the tighter side and won't reach it's performance potential until after a long run in period. also worth noting running an engine in is not taking it easy and babying the motor as that will result in poor ring seal and glazed bore. it's a specific set of instructions don't lug the motor at low rpm don't take it to max revs vary the throttle and accelerate hard occasionally for brief periods without going to max revs. this is more important on a tight 4 stroke meant to last 50,000km or more between rebuilds. a 300 mile break in for a race bike is out of the question they get half an hour to an hour.
On a 2 stroke, if you're even a little bit worried about it, just add a little extra oil(maybe 50%)to the fuel mix. Ride that tank, hitting full throttle occasionally, but don't sustain it. After that tank, go to the usual gas/oil mix, and ride like you stole it: Have fun!! If you're trying to increase the longevity of the engine, just make sure you use an extra high quality air filter, especially, if riding in soft sand.
On a 4-stroke, the first few oil changes are crucial to the longevity of the engine. The air filter is equally important. That makes a much bigger difference, than the way the engine is loaded during break-in. Use a premium quality oil filter, if equipped.
100% agreed on this subject just ride it!!
I have re built over 300 motors 2 and 4T,, Simply don't run sustained at full throttle to let skirts relax and wear into cylinder first ride, The strongest motors are the Juans that are ridded hard from the start , they have better compression and have Zero issues assuming the clearances were in spec from the start,
Thanks for the video. Regarding the race teams, my guess is that motor has already done some time in the dyno. When my kart motor comes back from the builder it’s been broken in in the dyno.
As long as you have enough clean oil in it (and premix for 2 stroke) you’ll be good just take it easy till it gets fully warmed up
Now do the follow up video about recommended maintenance intervals.
Or what oil to use
onzalimey Phillips NNNOOOOOOO! Not that....
Or how to wash your bike properly
Haha yup, change the oil daily, twice if you've ridden it.
Phil Ward bike maintenance is a bunch of hog wash
hey love you channel i just bought a brand new beta 250RR 2021 with oil injection, question i have is should i add the pre mix at 100 to 1 for a tank or 2 before i fully rely on the oil injection ?
My YZ250X I just rode it to break it in,just like youre saying in the video. I even went full throttle here and there. I just didnt run it Pinned wide open, But I dont usually ride pinned wide open anyway, there are too many turns and cliffs to fall off where I ride.. LOL But the bike works great.
As a degreed ME, I agree with your comments. Also old enough to remember when there was a break in period on cars. Tight specifications and good assembly processes have eliminated that requirement. Relax and ride.
i have a 2016 husqvarna te250 2strokes with 216 hours,.. it still ok n no major problem with the engine. sorry if my english is not too well.. i'am indonesian .. thx for your "dirt bike channel" ... keep goin to give us more informations about dirt bike (enduro esc)... 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Literally getting back into dirt bikes after 20 years, read 5 advertisements today saying "engine just build, warning will need to be broken in properly first!" I read it and thought wtf?! Has something changed on a 2 stroke since I used to race them as a kid? Research brought nothing on "how to break in a 2 stroke dirt bike" which is what I thought, then I watched this video so it reaffirmed the nonsense of breaking in an engine. Thanks for the video, I'll just go Rip it once I've bought one again
My last new dirt bike an RMZ450 I received literally on race day. Did the sighting lap then give her the berries. No problem all season.
Last year also purchased a new Harley Davidson soft tail standard got to the first clear intersection and did the biggest burnout I could (although not super impressive) and called it run in.
I agree, But what i believe also is to always let the motor to heat to its operating temperature first then ride it normally, of course as he says ,not WOT fully pinned. i believe that the piston rings heat up quicker than the bore so it's important to let the motor heat up at idle then go have some fun, but its my opinion...ride safe.
I think new motors do have a significant break in, but it just happens to the machining, and riding has very little effect to the break in of the components. But that being said, 4 strokes need an oil change after the break in. For sure.
Get the glitter out
I am someone who would disagree. The purpose of "seating" the rings is simply to wear them to the contour of the cylinder. The rings are manufactured separately and they need to wear in to mate with the cylinder. The cylinder has cross patterns and sharp peaks that need worn down to keep the oil to flow over the cylinder wall so you dont have direct contact with metal on metal. That might be less important with nikasil than with a cast iron cylinder. For new parts though, they will start to wear together and as they do metal shavings will come off so its not just the top end. You dont want those metal shavings sitting in your oil and getting into your bearings so they also reccomend draining your oik after the first ride. I typically do 3 heat cycles then 1 tank of gas normal riding but not bogging the engine or screaming it. I have also done 1 hear treatment, let the engine cool overnight and then retighten the cylinder head nuts to spec and then 2 more and then ride. Then cool down and retighten. Surprisingly, the cylinder head nuts do loosen a little after the first heat treatment, at least on big bores.
Break-in is to self clearance parts that weren't properly made in the 1st place. Warm it up and get on the pipe, no problem. Engine needs to be at operating temperature before you wick-it EVERY TIME, I REPEAT , WARM I UP every time you ride and you won't have a problem !
I agree....my new 2 strokes the first tank I mix the premix at 30:1, leave the stock jetting because I live at elevation and it's a little rich, ride it kind of mellow for the first ride, no high revs or wide open throttle.. stop let it cool off once or twice to "heat cycle" it (not sure this helps but durring that time I play with some of the clickers and controls which I want to do anyways) then after the first ride change the crank oil....that's it...then ready to ride out in the knarly mountain sh*t.
Thank you sir ! Just got a new 2022 yz450 f for my brother he took it out for 2 - 20 minute rides around the ranch we just wanted to be safe so now we feel awesome and ready for track time he’s 54 and rides like he’s 20 😂😂 but he will ride mellow the first few laps to get use to it since he’s been on a 2014 kx 450 he’s pumped on how it feels !! Thank you again for the video!!
One thing to remember on race engines they are built to different tolerances than engines for the public. Their top ends in particular are a couple thousands looser than your store bought bike. They will be warmed up before the race and then torn down after the race to start all over. I agree with you in break it in like your going to ride it and don't be afraid of throttle. The rings need the pressure to seat. Just don't hold it as the rings need to cool so throttle then back off do that several times and they are seated. Don't baby it or you'll glaze the cylinder. You'll have to start over with fresh rings as they'll not seal with a glazed cylinder. Ride the thing. It will thank you. After a few thermal cycles it is broke in.
The most important thing is to allow time for the engine to heat up and cool down. Don't hold the bike wide open for more than a couple seconds in the first tank of fuel and vary the throttle and you won't have any issues. If you fire up a brand new bike hold it wide open and don't heat cycle it properly you may not ever have an issue but not allowing those tight tolerance components to wear into each other will definitely impact the over longevity of the engine.
Look up Motoman Break-in Procedure. They have proven that break-in matters for ring seating which affects power, oil consumption, and blow by. But it's not a complicated process and you've got about 20 minutes on new rings before they are seated.
Couldn't agree more! The local Honda dealer I go to told me that Honda smashes the rev limiter with any motor they build before they ship it to the dealer.
Just my opinion too, i think the reason behind this break in periods are to actually "test the bike" if something is wrong. Like, if you run your vehicle hard, you can't actually hear or feel if something is about to go down or break. They are just telling you(mechanics) to "examine, feel if it runs normal" and if you don't feel anything bad with the first 5k kms, everything is working well and you don't have to bring the bike back from its mechanic(or the one who assemble it). In a nutshell, "break in" is just "testing".
Break in procedure is to remove metal from oil that comes from the motor during the "break in period".
He's , write I'm a machinist , I'd worry more about the gear box than the cylinder / piston and rings. The piston rings are going to seat / bed in in about 5 -10 minutes if them running , weather it idles or is ridden . The gear box oil should be a point if more concern due to the small bearings in there , you want to keep those clean when everything is new , so change that oil within first half hour , then an hour then after a couple 3 tanks of gas then I change it after every 2-3 day trail ride. Bearings and pins in the bottom end are either manufactured with proper tolerances and surface finishes or there not. There's darn little to break in on modern engines , in a 2 stroke with modern oils even if you ran as little as 1-3/4oz to the gallon it won't fail or wear prematurely unless it's jetted wrong . I ran my cr250 for well over 300 hours and it had the same compression as day 1 using 2-1/2 oz of amsoil dominator 👍👍👍 Don't worry ride happy .
Diesel mechanic here, Kyle you are half right. All these people going on about a specific way to break in a bike are full of hogwash. Its actually far simpler than that. From the factory there is no need to break in your new bike, however if you are DIY kinda person who rebuilds their 2 strokes break ins are necessary. A new set of piston and rings needs to go through at least one thermal expansion cycle before you actually get on that girl and ride her hard. This goes for 4 strokes too but most guys don't rebuild their own thumpers so its less important. Most importantly though, Ever engine I have rebuilt does call for at least one thermal expansion cycle before a load is placed on the engine, and this information is always present in the service manual.
Keep the good videos coming and good luck on that knee hope it heals up quick so you can get back to ripping!!!
I’m 41 and just bought my first dirt bike. Yz250f. I’ve learned a lot watching your channel and now that I know neither of us break in our barrels…did we just become friends?!!
I don't necessarily disagree with you but if you're buying a brand new or rebuilt engine I think its necessary do a valve check within the first 5 hours. I checked my bike, 2017 Husqvarna FX450 new from the dealer with 0 hours on it, and when I checked the valves they were way out and needed to be re-shimmed.
I think it's more important to run the engine for a while in one heat cycle, so if there is a hard spot somewhere it looses up quickly
there is reason to break-in
there is a lot of heat from friction for a few first hours and you just can easily overheat piston/cylinder/gears/clutch during break-in period. but that ONLY means do NOT go full throttle all over the time during break-in.
You can (and should) rev it high, but not for prolonged period of time. Usually that means "ride like you always do", unless you are pro rider lol =).
2 strokes. Matters very little. 4 strokes actually do. The rings have a different design on 4 strokes that are absolutely made to break in. The race guys it doesn't matter anyways, they're going to trash it regardless.
Thanks for the opinion.
Dirt Bike Channel anytime. You should checkout the workshop, it's a channel with an engineer that worked for most the big name manufacturers, he has one crazy long video that delves into the ring design on modern 4 strokes and their wear angle. Really cool stuff. I build engines for my race cars and use to believe heavily in the hard break in until I talked to ring manufacturers more. When I tear the engines down now I can tell a huge difference in the amount of piston rock. For a big power boosted engine you need a little but too much can cause serious issues. Longevity increases greatly with not a baby break in but not a hard break in for me for the first 600 to 1000 miles. Two stroke rings do not have this sharp end angle on the rings, they are designed to go in and take off.
I run my new bike's really hard for one hour then change the oil .this is for 4t & 2t ktm's,new pistons @ 100hrs no problems on any of my bike's
Backyard Boosters You're just gonna take his "opinion" write off like that? You're spewing facts. Lol.
This
Ok ok, while the topic of break ins is debatable, you MUST warm up an engine before riding hard - especially a two stroke. The cylinder and piston will heat up and if they aren't warmed up fully the piston rings can chip the ports.
I haven't changed my piston in 3 years and don't when the owner before me changed it. So i have put down around 700h and yhea it lost power over the years but for trail riding i did not feel mutch differens.
All rings need to be seated no matter how tight the tolerances are. There's a reason for the term. But it usually happens within the first half-hour of operation on any motor.
I agree...... Now this question.... Can I put a yellow powerband in my YZ 250 ?? Cause lets not forget Yamaha's were yellow at one time.... And are there different color powerbands ?? I gotz to know.
I also agree. Just ride it. But also, I'd change the oil to see if there's any broken pieces or shavings in it. So you dont ruin your bearings or clutch plates, oil pump, in your 4 stroke. And dont use car transmission fluid in the crankcase. Maintenance manuals are only 30$ on evilbay. Torque specs are important. I've built bikes since I was a kid. Now I'm 43.
I usually warm it and cool down twice just to free up the engine a little, don't like how it runs when its tight. In Romania the first ride on new bike was boiling it up the very first hill, didn't have any issues
I have owned crf230s & 250s for 10 years so I would say I ride them at their limits so I thought you said at the beginning you’d explain how to (I ride hard enduro and just got a nearly built top end)