I couldn't find anything regarding 4 strokes and the TPI to throttle sensitivity. Coming from an 04 450 exc to a 17 450 exc-f I love everything except the sensitivity of the throttle positioning. It seems like there is very little difference between on the gas and then off the gas. This makes for a somewhat jerky ride when plonking along in the lower gears. Is this an EFI or more of a cable adjustment?
This video completely leaves out the entire point of exactly HOW this affects tuning. I only understood it because I've been working on all types of engines and fuel injection systems almost my entire life. HERE'S THE POINT........ 2-Stroke engines "like" to idle in a condition called "4-Stroking", this is where the engine only fires every-other piston stroke, instead of the "normal" condition where the engine fires on EVERY stroke. This is caused by excessive exhaust gases being left behind in the cylinder, which is caused by the high vacuum in the crankcase, which is caused by the throttle being closed. ALL 2-STROKES OPERATE IN THIS MANNER, (except for the odd "Direct-Injection" 2-Strokes, where the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber). This requires an unusually rich mixture at Idle to actively cause the engine to CONSISTENTLY misfire on every other stroke. This makes the Idle RPM much more stable, and consistent, but it also causes the engine to exhaust a lot of un-burned gasoline. Of course this is considered to be "pollution", (un-burned Hydrocarbons). If you "Lean-Out" the mixture, to reduce the un-burned Hydrocarbon output, the Idle RPM will be very inconsistent, and try to race-up very high, ( 2 to 3K RPM too high), or the engine will stall, or bog heavily, one or the other. Now to HOW THIS IS ADJUSTED. The Throttle Valve has an electronic "Throttle Position Sensor". The "TPS" tells the Fuel Injection Computer how much Gas to inject. More TPS = More Gas. Now, if you let Air leak around the Throttle Valve, this lets more Air into the engine, WITHOUT MOVING THE TPS. The Computer does not "know" that more Air is going into the Engine. So the Engine gets more Air, but it does NOT get more Gas to go with it, therefore the Mixture becomes LEANER. Next, if you cut-off the Air from leaking around the Throttle Blade, the mixture will become Richer, because the TPS DID NOT MOVE. BUT, you are also reducing the total amount of Air getting into the Engine, so the Idle Speed goes down, possibly too far down. If the Mixture is too Lean, you get an unstable Idle, and possibly bogs or stalls. If the mixture is too Rich, the Engine becomes sluggish and tends to fowl Spark Plugs easier. When the Mixture is just right, you get a consistent "4-Stroking" Idle, and crisp throttle response. Bottom Line, On these Bikes YOU DON'T GET AN IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT SCREW. You get a MIXTURE Adjustment Screw, (which is called the "Air-Screw" ). A proper "Throttle-Stop" "Idle-Speed-Adjustment-Screw" is needed. Turning the "Air-Screw" "IN", to "Richen" the "Idle Fuel Mixture", even after adjusting the new "Idle Speed Adjustment Screw", may, or may NOT be, enough to achieve the consistent Idle you are looking for, but it will, at least, provide an increased Idle RPM, which will make some of the problems caused by "Leaner Mixtures" less noticeable. And YES, it's worth $35.oo for a special screw. . .
Great explanation, but it is definitely not worth $35 for that screw. Like the Two Stroke Performance guy says in his video, go down to your local hardware store and buy a 5x50 mm Allen head screw and spring for less than $5.
I just have one correction to make to this beautiful post. It is not a mixture screw as it only effects the mixture at idle and onky because there is no air metering device (AFM/Map sensor). It is an idle air bypass screw. This is the desired adjust position in the automotive industry as those vehicles have metering devices. As you said, all you are doing is tricking the ecu to think that the throttle is open slightly.
With Gloves on....... With a blazing HOT engine....... Without tools .......... I'm perfectly capable of creating an adjustment screw exactly like this one, but by the time you drive to 3 hardware stores, and finally have to look-up a proper Bolt/Screw/Fastener Distributor , and then drive there...... You have now spent over $20.oo in Gas, and burned 6 hours of your time...... But it's all good cause the guy at the Fastener Distributor gave you the Screw for FREE, because he didn't want to fill out all the paperwork for just one screw. YOU'RE THE WINNER !!!!!
Good explanation, could you cheat it by SLIGHTLY moving the TPS relative to the butterfly, so you actually drift/offset the injection tables, I have already a reliable 5.00 volt and the connector to interface with the TPS (because my tps is slighly cheated like this on my 500 exc). So you adjust the idle with the air bypass screw, the idle is higher but leaner, but then you offset the tps so the ECU thinks the butterfly is slighly open more open than it is. (im talking something like 0.58 vs 0.64 volts at idle). Yes this will have an effect on the whole RPM range but don't they run on the lean side anyways ? This is just a thought, this is not that simple for the common person, but i'm not.
OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. ( So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temp. Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way. After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember! My Husky must be a Republican!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike.The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw! Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store ( I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything. And if you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!
Doesn't the crankcase pressure go up with airflow. Airflow is airflow whether or not it goes through the bypass, or through the butterfly. The CCP is going to read it.
Looks like you had the same issue with your spring you got from Slavens. It's far too long to get any decent adjustment out of it. I had to cut off the last few loops for it to work properly.
I have a 2020 KTM XC 250 works just fine stock , never stalls at its super low idle. RIding the truly hard enduro stuff up here in Pacific NW on Vancouver Island , Victoria BC Canada.
I have a 2020 300 XC that had a GET ECU fitted. I reinstalled the original ECU and after some difficulties with the CCPS and TPS values, I am now in a situation where I get no Fi light or fault messages anymore. During my investigations I also found the idle screw mod has been done, using your instructions the bike now idles well (the idle screw is almost all the way in though)and the low end pickup is good (low end just of idle bog was the reason I removed the GET ECU) but now I get mid to high end hesitation/stutter almost like a premature rev limiter. My questions are, how do I know if I am running too rich, what other reasons could there be for this behaviour?
I'm having to do a very similar mod to my new GPX Moto FSE250R. The bike runs beautiful but would not stay at idle very long without cutting out. The factory, like KTM, blocked off the idle screw(butterfly) adjustment and only allowed adjustment of the air bleed screw(Adjusting the air-bleed increased idle speed but did little for the stalling). The FSE is equipped with a ROJO EFI system, which has an app where I can make some limited changes to the EFI but more than that it has a robust monitoring section. To test the effectiveness of adjusting the butterfly I used the fine throttle cable adjustment(taking up the freeplay to open the butterfly slightly). Opening the butterfly 2%(shown on TPS) and setting the air bleed to 2 turns out(from 4.5 turns out) totally corrected the stalling. Through the monitoring app I had a nice smooth idle at 1850 rpms(down from the 2100+ I had to use to keep it idling at all before), with a normalized AFR and no overheating. I'm in process of getting a manual idle screw in, the process is just as a much of a pain in the butt as on the KTM. :-|
In Jeff's video he states right away that the bolt is 5mm x.8, I picked up & you can too, a Alan bolt from a hardware store for 50cents. Get a spring from a pen & now you have a idle screw for under a dollar. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for doing this video! Hope you’ll do a follow up video with how the Idle Adjustment screw works in conjunction with the GET ECU. Also possibly explore that if you have one, the Idle Screw vs. ECU, that you may not need the other. Just curious what your overall thoughts are? Also wondering if you are toying with the idea of trying the Athena Injector Relocation kit?
Also good to chase the threads with a tap. Sometimes the old loctite can be an issue and gum up the soft aluminum. Might not affect everyone just depends on how much loctite KTM put on the bike
Don't use a tap, it's not necessary and can make the screw fitment a bit loose if you are ham fisted. Just spray some brake clean in the threaded hole and run the idle screw in and out repeatedly, it'll clean up great. Then you'll want to throw some anti seize on the idle screw and you're good to go.
@@billybobbubbawubba9457 you misunderstood my point completely. By definition, taps tap new threads and remove material. Whereas thread chasers just clean the threads. Which is what you should be doing if there is anything clogging up the threads. I was stating that you should be chasing those threads to clean them, not using a tap, which could cause the screw to fit loosely.
@@vinny2t491 A tap can be used as a thread chaser to remove debris. Only apply light torque, and back it out, if it sticks. Clean it, blow out hole with air, repeat.
@@billybobbubbawubba9457 You definitely could, but it would be the wrong tool for the job. I could also use a screwdriver to pry on things, but I would prefer to use a pry bar. Right tool for the job makes a big difference, especially when you are making a living from it. If you want to use a tap incorrectly, that's your tool, and your machine, it's your right to do so. But I like doing things the right way, especially when I'm working on other peoples machines. Good luck.
these bikes are designed by highly educated people so dont touch anything except what the owners manual say you an adjust. if there is a problem, witch rarely occur, bring it to a real mechanic who is trained for these systems. and dont listen to these channels. they are self proclaimed expert and are the roots of many problems.
Hey Kyle, love the channel man I tell all my friends about it and literally bought a 2020 250XC based on your recommendation after not owning a 2 stroke in my life or ever riding trails before so thanks for speaking out regarding the joys of riding single track and trails. What I do have a question about is my spark plug, I’m using the BR7ES and for some reason the bike keeps fouling plugs I’ve only got 7 hours in and already 3 plugs. I took it to the shop at 5 hours they flashed the ECU and not sure if it helped because I had a spark plug issue today. Any insight on this? Thank you
I was under the impression that the bike self adjusted the fuel to oil mixture to run perfectly. Is this correct? And if so, by changing the idle and air screw, won't this affect the bikes ability to auto adjust? Thanks in advance, great channel buddy.
Bingo! That is why unfortunately this video is not right! The air bypass screw and the butterfly idle screw do exactly the same!! Allow a small amount of air flow when the butterfly is closed. Only that the first one is a bit more gradual/precise…and that is why engineers designed it. How lean/rich is the mixture is controlled by the oxygen sensors that provide feedback to the ECU and inject more or less fuel at the transfer ports (after all this air flow happens). The only way to change the fuel/air ratio in a TPI is to change the map in the ECU (just like with 4 stroke injected bikes).
@@cokecruzb Wrong, Opening the butterfly with the idle screw increases the amount of fuel because it turns the Throttle Position Sensor slightly which Does increase fuel flow....
@@crazybob1954mo mmmhhh … I can’t argue with that because I honestly don’t know if you move the butterfly that moves the sensor as well… but one thing I’m sure is that the fuel is injected in the transfer port and the oxygen sensors control the mix, so if what you mention is correct, you’d only be slightly accelerating the engine, but not changing the fuel/air ratio.
there is no fuel passing in the butterfly, just air. the crankcase dont even see fuel, just oil. you should change your name to ignorantbob@@crazybob1954mo
Hey Kyle hope you well. Sorry to rehash this age old story 😂 my bike idles fine in neutral as soon as it’s in gear with clutch in it it idles slower and slower until it dies. Would this fix that problem or do I maybe have a different issue? 300 TPI 23
I have a 2023 KTM 250 XC. It's not idling. I saw a video where a guy adjusted his throttle position sensor and got it to idle with no trouble. Is this the correct fix for this.
To have to go to these extreme measures to loosen the butterfly position idle screw on a new bike is in my opinion ludicrous..even though the reasoning is understandable..just another possible pain to have to deal with on these otherwise fantastic bikes that didn't exist on the earlier carburetor models.
I was wondering this when you start a tpi they run rich to bring engine up to temp and if you open the throttle you put more fuel into the already rich mix
By completely changed do you mean its just idling slightly faster and responds to throttle input quicker? ive got a 19 te250 tpi and its 100% stock, it seems to idle pretty slow but rarely stalls, im at ~800ft elevation. Just curious if this would be worth while trying
Hi, How do you think, if you will make rich mix by this screw, it will be more fuel in engine and it will be that fuel in crankshaft bearing. So, will it couse bearing damage, because there will be more fuel vs oil/air. Thanks,
I felt like my tpi ran rich from factory, esp in Colorado at high elevation. I guess it really depends where you are located if the TPI will run lean from factory, but mine sure didnt, it ran rich for me. barely any air and just too much gas. it ran fine in Texas and Utah, but not in CO. I needed to open up that butterly and with this idle, I can finally idle correctly and adjust the air bypass like a normal carb. makes a huge difference.
Air screw = idle stabilisation valve on cars with wire driven throttle.Except this is not an active device.But on car engine,opening the throttle to mod the idle gets the ecu OUT of the idle map.How does this ecu work?
Hello m'y 2020 exc 250 tpi doesn't start with electrical starter, i need ton push. After starting, at low speedy, it want to stop. Any Idea about this problème? Batterie? Piston? Capteur ? Thanks!
Do you know how many turns out the bypass screw would be for a factory setting on a 22 300xc? I may have played with mine trying to adjust idle and now the bottom end of rev range is terrible
I had to do this to my 22 Gasgas ex250. Always had to blip the throttle when closed going downhill to keep it running. Worth the money to not have to do that😂
I have an 2018 Xcw 250 tipi was for 2 yrs starting fine.Now won’t start on choke only off. Takes 10 min to get going with it off. Is this my solution.? I’ve changed plug 10 mil gas crb filt. Bike mechanics here have no clue in Bradenton Florida.I’m ready to give up on ktm I spent 10000 I’m not rich
Hi! Can you help me please? I just bought a 2018 exc 250 tpi, during my first ride i realise that after i start the bike my oil light wont turn of completely, it stays always on. I start the bike, the light turns on very bright and a few seconds "turns off" the bright and stay always on with a less bright light and never turns off completely. Im not sure but i think before the light used to turn off completely, is this normal? When i got home after that ride( 3 hours rt ,79km) i refilled the oil tank and measured that took about 60ml to fill up again. So it is not oil faulty...
Hello, something strange happened to me with my tpi 2020..I inserted the air screw at 3 half a turn and the engine turned off .. and never wanted to turn on ... Verique spark gasoline spark plug and everything is fine..the engine starts to start but it does not start ... and it was since I moved the air screw ... could you help me?
What causes them to stop idling? I have a 23 te300 that has ran flawlessly for 60 hours. Right at 60 hours it stopped idling. I don't want to install the mod as a bandaid because this seems like an actual problem
I bought an 18' 250 TPI with 34 hours on it. Immediately, buyers remorse set in. It fouled plugs on startup badly enough that they needed changed- a PITA, because the tank needs to be lifted. Secondly it didn't want to idle, precluding the factory recommended starting procedure of not touching the throttle. Thirdly, it ran like shit, So, after getting my online education about these matters, I did the throttle screw mod, an replaced the CCP sensor. A total sucess! Bike runs, starts, and idles as you'd expect it too. After riding it my opinion went from "bummed" to "stoked". Futher stoke comes from the fact that I don't need to buy an expensive ECU replacement, or throw other parts replacement money at it. Can't wait to get on it again.
Isn't the air going into the engine through the bypass being seen as pressure by the CCP? Doesn't the CCP rerplace the MAF found in cars? Is the TPS signal not a basic map, then modified by CCP, water temp.,and ambient sensors? I went to bed a short while ago, and this is robbing me of sleep!
I own a 2021' EXC 250 TPI the default bypass screw is 2 and 3/4 but my bikes have a tricky pipe bang when I release the accelerator. Should I resolve it with the idle screw mods? How many rounds Do i need to set the bypass screw after the installation of idle screw ? Thank you
2.5 mm allen for my 2020 TX 300i. Wasn't too bad to remove. New screw arrives on Saturday. Tried some of that Bob Smith Industries UN-Cure stuff, but that didn't work. Small Benzomatic for about a minute did the job.
Total newb question, if this mod is adjusting the butterfly, wouldn’t adjusting the throttle cable play at the throttle do the same thing without having to do all this?
Hey Kyle, I've got a 2021 300 XC-W, and it idles a bit high, But it also has a hanging idle on occasion when decelerating in first gear, the RPM's just stay pinned. Would adjusting the air screw mod be enough to fix this problem or would I need to do the IDLE screw fix? TYIA
So if the air screw is for emissions, why would it richen or lean the mixture? This would defeat its purpose. Wouldnt the EFI adjust the fueling acordingly?
12k CDN bike, here is a hack to make it idle properly, which involves removing your $1k carburetor, ridiculous. i love ktm and their technology but its just simply seems untested when they put it to the consumer and leave them to beta test
hello, for a few laps I feel that my 300 tpi is slower in revving and it seems to have less power, I thought it was because it's very cold but now I'm evaluating the problem you describe in the video, what do you think? Do you also feel a slight decrease in power in cold weather? the bike has 40 hours.
My GPX tse 250 has a mikuni carborator. It’s runs excellent. I hear and see a lot of modifications. On these expensive bikes . I have made some upgrades like better tires, seat and larger gas tank. The GPX cost me 5600$ with a 6 month warranty 🤔
This is an almost must do for rekluse guys. Kyle how do you bleed the oil pump after pulling the line from the pump to the throttle body? I heard its a pretty important step.
I did the "idle screw mod" on my '18 250i last spring. Worked great but in Michigan the elevation is mostly between 800 and 1,500 feet above sea level, when I had the "air screw" adjusted to "closed" it really did not want to start (but started and ran fine when warm), I ended up backing it out a ½ turn and then it would start ok and run good. This spring I might even try setting it at 3/4 turn out, but overall I am happy with the mod.
Thanks for the awesome vid Kyle! Just picked up a new 2019 KTM 250 Xc-W TPI and it makes me feel uneasy how lean it runs! I will be doing this mod for sure. Any recommendations to get the bike running more rich at high rpm as well?
For 30 years or more fuel injected things have had idle speed regulated by air bypass....without buying different screws and jacking butterfly open more..
agreed, but 30 years ago there wasn't the euro4/5, EPA and other regulatory bodies to make manufacturers do silly things in the name of emissions. ''Oh you make more bikes than X qty, you must now restrict your bikes to sell them sorry ! btw if you make them modifiable, we're sending lawyers up yo ass''.
I just tried that yesterday and stripped my grub screw. Mine must have extra red Loctite on it or something. It didn't budge, and I had it quite hot. Now I get to pull the damn bike apart and figure out how to get the stripped grub screw out, yea!
Love your channel and your video's. Thank you for going over this mod. I've been thinking about doing this on my 19 300 XCW TPI. The bike runs flawlessly and has never failed me, I just want to richen the mixture just a tad, ... Been riding smokers for a long, long time... I've always jetted the bikes just a tad rich with great results. I expect the same or better with this bike. The low idle has never caused the bike to stall or stumbled, personally I just prefer the idle a little higher. This solves both small issues I had with the bike. I've reviewed Jeff's video, and others, but now that I've seen yours, I'm comfortable to make this change. Once again, thanks, it's much appreciated.
I made this mod over the weekend. After watching yours and other video's on the procedure, I was comfortable with the procedure. Total time was about 2 hours, which included cleaning a lot of parts of the bike which usually are not exposed. I set a timer on my cell phone for two minutes . I ran the torch on the backside of the bolt, after 90 seconds, the lock tight started to bubble, after two minutes I was able to turn the screw 1/2 turn before I got tight again. Another 30 seconds and it came out without and fuss. I put Salves screw into the throttle body, modified the throttle body cover, and reinstalled. As a starting point, I set the air screw at 1/2 turn. After going through the proper wake up procedure, I fired up the bike, and set the idle to my liking. I feel she runs even better... I know its just my imagination, but I'm much happier that I did the mod. Thanks for the informative video, it is truly appreciated.
Why spend $35 on a screw when you'll only need to adjust the bike once ? Just use the factory screw ! You can easily do it with out removing the throttle body once you break that lock tight. I did'nt even need to heat mine to get it moving and after two rides I got it settled perfectly were I wanted it and never needed to touch it again 😉 PS: Great video Kyle 👍 but when Jeff start's selling those screws for like $10 I mite buy one just because it looks nice 😂
@@DirtBikeChannel I adjusted mine and then put some lock tight when I found the perfect setting. Never needed to touch it again since a year ago. Don't get me wrong I love the idea of the screw by Jeff's but $35 it's just over the moon !
Wow... Guy who selling bolts for 30$ price fucking genius!!! I mean really - some idio.. buing that.. wow. I did the same for 1$ at all. Also I added bushing there.. Some one who need it mail me, will do that for 15$. ha-ha :D
Good video kyle Good to see the emmissions explained.. Annoys me to see so many internet people ask 'why doesnt this bike run like my carby bike' 30 bux for a screw is approx one THIRD of ONE PERCENT of the cost of a bike (16,000$ AUD) lol Or a steak dinner
How do I adjust the power valve on these bikes? Do I mess with the two screws on the side of the power valve screw? Or can I just use the tool and turn the power valve screw out 1/4 turn? Mine came from factory turned way in.
Interesting on needing to meet emissions once they make so many bikes. the GasGas purchase makes more sense now. The more brands they can spread sales too the less emissions they have to worry about.
Hey Kyle, quick question. Would it be possible to just put an older keihn or mikuni carburator on? Why keep a TPI carb when older carbs are so easy to find for cheap
Soldering irons work great on bolts in tight places to free up loctite
Ha, I’m a mechanical tradesman with over 30 years on the tools and never heard this idea before. Awesome, thanks mate.
great tip
Like that tip, thanks
Just did mine, it was a pain to get the screw out. Torch it hot! Can’t wait to see how it runs more rich😊thanks Kyle!
GREAT TIP!
I couldn't find anything regarding 4 strokes and the TPI to throttle sensitivity. Coming from an 04 450 exc to a 17 450 exc-f I love everything except the sensitivity of the throttle positioning. It seems like there is very little difference between on the gas and then off the gas. This makes for a somewhat jerky ride when plonking along in the lower gears. Is this an EFI or more of a cable adjustment?
This video completely leaves out the entire point of exactly HOW this affects tuning.
I only understood it because I've been working on all types of engines and fuel injection systems almost my entire life.
HERE'S THE POINT........
2-Stroke engines "like" to idle in a condition called "4-Stroking",
this is where the engine only fires every-other piston stroke,
instead of the "normal" condition where the engine fires on EVERY stroke.
This is caused by excessive exhaust gases being left behind in the cylinder,
which is caused by the high vacuum in the crankcase,
which is caused by the throttle being closed.
ALL 2-STROKES OPERATE IN THIS MANNER,
(except for the odd "Direct-Injection" 2-Strokes, where the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber).
This requires an unusually rich mixture at Idle to actively cause the engine to CONSISTENTLY misfire on every other stroke.
This makes the Idle RPM much more stable, and consistent,
but it also causes the engine to exhaust a lot of un-burned gasoline.
Of course this is considered to be "pollution", (un-burned Hydrocarbons).
If you "Lean-Out" the mixture, to reduce the un-burned Hydrocarbon output,
the Idle RPM will be very inconsistent,
and try to race-up very high, ( 2 to 3K RPM too high), or the engine will stall, or bog heavily, one or the other.
Now to HOW THIS IS ADJUSTED.
The Throttle Valve has an electronic "Throttle Position Sensor".
The "TPS" tells the Fuel Injection Computer how much Gas to inject.
More TPS = More Gas.
Now, if you let Air leak around the Throttle Valve,
this lets more Air into the engine, WITHOUT MOVING THE TPS.
The Computer does not "know" that more Air is going into the Engine.
So the Engine gets more Air, but it does NOT get more Gas to go with it, therefore the Mixture becomes LEANER.
Next, if you cut-off the Air from leaking around the Throttle Blade,
the mixture will become Richer, because the TPS DID NOT MOVE.
BUT,
you are also reducing the total amount of Air getting into the Engine,
so the Idle Speed goes down, possibly too far down.
If the Mixture is too Lean, you get an unstable Idle, and possibly bogs or stalls.
If the mixture is too Rich, the Engine becomes sluggish and tends to fowl Spark Plugs easier.
When the Mixture is just right, you get a consistent "4-Stroking" Idle, and crisp throttle response.
Bottom Line,
On these Bikes YOU DON'T GET AN IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT SCREW.
You get a MIXTURE Adjustment Screw, (which is called the "Air-Screw" ).
A proper "Throttle-Stop" "Idle-Speed-Adjustment-Screw" is needed.
Turning the "Air-Screw" "IN", to "Richen" the "Idle Fuel Mixture",
even after adjusting the new "Idle Speed Adjustment Screw",
may, or may NOT be, enough to achieve the consistent Idle you are looking for,
but it will, at least, provide an increased Idle RPM,
which will make some of the problems caused by "Leaner Mixtures" less noticeable.
And YES,
it's worth $35.oo for a special screw.
.
.
Great explanation, but it is definitely not worth $35 for that screw. Like the Two Stroke Performance guy says in his video, go down to your local hardware store and buy a 5x50 mm Allen head screw and spring for less than $5.
I just have one correction to make to this beautiful post.
It is not a mixture screw as it only effects the mixture at idle and onky because there is no air metering device (AFM/Map sensor). It is an idle air bypass screw. This is the desired adjust position in the automotive industry as those vehicles have metering devices.
As you said, all you are doing is tricking the ecu to think that the throttle is open slightly.
Its worth it for the screw, where else do you buy one you can turn properly by hand in a muddy ir rainy situation
With Gloves on....... With a blazing HOT engine....... Without tools ..........
I'm perfectly capable of creating an adjustment screw exactly like this one,
but by the time you drive to 3 hardware stores,
and finally have to look-up a proper Bolt/Screw/Fastener Distributor , and then drive there......
You have now spent over $20.oo in Gas, and burned 6 hours of your time......
But it's all good cause the guy at the Fastener Distributor gave you the Screw for FREE,
because he didn't want to fill out all the paperwork for just one screw.
YOU'RE THE WINNER !!!!!
Good explanation, could you cheat it by SLIGHTLY moving the TPS relative to the butterfly, so you actually drift/offset the injection tables, I have already a reliable 5.00 volt and the connector to interface with the TPS (because my tps is slighly cheated like this on my 500 exc). So you adjust the idle with the air bypass screw, the idle is higher but leaner, but then you offset the tps so the ECU thinks the butterfly is slighly open more open than it is. (im talking something like 0.58 vs 0.64 volts at idle). Yes this will have an effect on the whole RPM range but don't they run on the lean side anyways ?
This is just a thought, this is not that simple for the common person, but i'm not.
Awesome video. Hope you show an update for how you know if you need to adjust your mixture screw and what you do to tell if it is good or not.
OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. ( So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex).
Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temp. Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way.
After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember! My Husky must be a Republican!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly
Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike.The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw!
Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store ( I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything.
And if you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!
Doesn't the crankcase pressure go up with airflow. Airflow is airflow whether or not it goes through the bypass,
or through the butterfly. The CCP is going to read it.
Looks like you had the same issue with your spring you got from Slavens. It's far too long to get any decent adjustment out of it. I had to cut off the last few loops for it to work properly.
I have a 2020 KTM XC 250 works just fine stock , never stalls at its super low idle. RIding the truly hard enduro stuff up here in Pacific NW on Vancouver Island , Victoria BC Canada.
I have a 2020 300 XC that had a GET ECU fitted. I reinstalled the original ECU and after some difficulties with the CCPS and TPS values, I am now in a situation where I get no Fi light or fault messages anymore. During my investigations I also found the idle screw mod has been done, using your instructions the bike now idles well (the idle screw is almost all the way in though)and the low end pickup is good (low end just of idle bog was the reason I removed the GET ECU) but now I get mid to high end hesitation/stutter almost like a premature rev limiter. My questions are, how do I know if I am running too rich, what other reasons could there be for this behaviour?
I'm having to do a very similar mod to my new GPX Moto FSE250R. The bike runs beautiful but would not stay at idle very long without cutting out. The factory, like KTM, blocked off the idle screw(butterfly) adjustment and only allowed adjustment of the air bleed screw(Adjusting the air-bleed increased idle speed but did little for the stalling). The FSE is equipped with a ROJO EFI system, which has an app where I can make some limited changes to the EFI but more than that it has a robust monitoring section. To test the effectiveness of adjusting the butterfly I used the fine throttle cable adjustment(taking up the freeplay to open the butterfly slightly). Opening the butterfly 2%(shown on TPS) and setting the air bleed to 2 turns out(from 4.5 turns out) totally corrected the stalling. Through the monitoring app I had a nice smooth idle at 1850 rpms(down from the 2100+ I had to use to keep it idling at all before), with a normalized AFR and no overheating. I'm in process of getting a manual idle screw in, the process is just as a much of a pain in the butt as on the KTM. :-|
Thank you so much i love you , you Are reason i started dirt biking ❤️
In Jeff's video he states right away that the bolt is 5mm x.8, I picked up & you can too, a Alan bolt from a hardware store for 50cents. Get a spring from a pen & now you have a idle screw for under a dollar. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for doing this video! Hope you’ll do a follow up video with how the Idle Adjustment screw works in conjunction with the GET ECU. Also possibly explore that if you have one, the Idle Screw vs. ECU, that you may not need the other. Just curious what your overall thoughts are? Also wondering if you are toying with the idea of trying the Athena Injector Relocation kit?
Does anyone know if the new TBI models also have this problem? So they also require the addition of the air screw ?
Also good to chase the threads with a tap. Sometimes the old loctite can be an issue and gum up the soft aluminum. Might not affect everyone just depends on how much loctite KTM put on the bike
Don't use a tap, it's not necessary and can make the screw fitment a bit loose if you are ham fisted. Just spray some brake clean in the threaded hole and run the idle screw in and out repeatedly, it'll clean up great. Then you'll want to throw some anti seize on the idle screw and you're good to go.
@@vinny2t491 The tap has channels for the residue. Just don't force it.
@@billybobbubbawubba9457 you misunderstood my point completely. By definition, taps tap new threads and remove material. Whereas thread chasers just clean the threads. Which is what you should be doing if there is anything clogging up the threads. I was stating that you should be chasing those threads to clean them, not using a tap, which could cause the screw to fit loosely.
@@vinny2t491 A tap can be used as a thread chaser to remove debris. Only apply light torque, and back it out, if it sticks. Clean it, blow out hole with air, repeat.
@@billybobbubbawubba9457 You definitely could, but it would be the wrong tool for the job. I could also use a screwdriver to pry on things, but I would prefer to use a pry bar. Right tool for the job makes a big difference, especially when you are making a living from it.
If you want to use a tap incorrectly, that's your tool, and your machine, it's your right to do so. But I like doing things the right way, especially when I'm working on other peoples machines.
Good luck.
these bikes are designed by highly educated people so dont touch anything except what the owners manual say you an adjust. if there is a problem, witch rarely occur, bring it to a real mechanic who is trained for these systems. and dont listen to these channels. they are self proclaimed expert and are the roots of many problems.
Hey Kyle, love the channel man I tell all my friends about it and literally bought a 2020 250XC based on your recommendation after not owning a 2 stroke in my life or ever riding trails before so thanks for speaking out regarding the joys of riding single track and trails. What I do have a question about is my spark plug, I’m using the BR7ES and for some reason the bike keeps fouling plugs I’ve only got 7 hours in and already 3 plugs. I took it to the shop at 5 hours they flashed the ECU and not sure if it helped because I had a spark plug issue today. Any insight on this? Thank you
Have them replace the ambient air pressure sensor. This fixed my buddies 2020 300 XC.
Eldon95084 thanks man I’ll maybe bring it by for them to do that.
I was under the impression that the bike self adjusted the fuel to oil mixture to run perfectly. Is this correct? And if so, by changing the idle and air screw, won't this affect the bikes ability to auto adjust? Thanks in advance, great channel buddy.
Bingo! That is why unfortunately this video is not right! The air bypass screw and the butterfly idle screw do exactly the same!! Allow a small amount of air flow when the butterfly is closed. Only that the first one is a bit more gradual/precise…and that is why engineers designed it. How lean/rich is the mixture is controlled by the oxygen sensors that provide feedback to the ECU and inject more or less fuel at the transfer ports (after all this air flow happens). The only way to change the fuel/air ratio in a TPI is to change the map in the ECU (just like with 4 stroke injected bikes).
@@cokecruzb Wrong, Opening the butterfly with the idle screw increases the amount of fuel because it turns the Throttle Position Sensor slightly which Does increase fuel flow....
@@crazybob1954mo mmmhhh … I can’t argue with that because I honestly don’t know if you move the butterfly that moves the sensor as well… but one thing I’m sure is that the fuel is injected in the transfer port and the oxygen sensors control the mix, so if what you mention is correct, you’d only be slightly accelerating the engine, but not changing the fuel/air ratio.
there is no fuel passing in the butterfly, just air. the crankcase dont even see fuel, just oil. you should change your name to ignorantbob@@crazybob1954mo
Any reason why you couldn't use a regular small screw with a hex head?
Hey Kyle hope you well. Sorry to rehash this age old story 😂 my bike idles fine in neutral as soon as it’s in gear with clutch in it it idles slower and slower until it dies. Would this fix that problem or do I maybe have a different issue?
300 TPI 23
That more sounds like your clutch is slipping when the lever is pulled in, try screwing the adjustment screw in on the lever first.
Great channel Kyle this is my go to place when I have issue with my bike brilliant channel
I have a 2023 KTM 250 XC. It's not idling. I saw a video where a guy adjusted his throttle position sensor and got it to idle with no trouble. Is this the correct fix for this.
It is a TBI two stroke
What did you d? I fixed mine by buying a Honda.
To have to go to these extreme measures to loosen the butterfly position idle screw on a new bike is in my opinion ludicrous..even though the reasoning is understandable..just another possible pain to have to deal with on these otherwise fantastic bikes that didn't exist on the earlier carburetor models.
Thank the government air restrictions for this. Hopefully KTM finds an alternate way to deal with it.
Question:
The butterfly adjustment means another reading by the TPS, once you change the angle. No problems?
I was wondering this when you start a tpi they run rich to bring engine up to temp and if you open the throttle you put more fuel into the already rich mix
Installed The Screw today on my 2020 XCW 300, what a difference it made!
1/4 turn out for now on air/idle screw. Thanks Kyle!
By completely changed do you mean its just idling slightly faster and responds to throttle input quicker? ive got a 19 te250 tpi and its 100% stock, it seems to idle pretty slow but rarely stalls, im at ~800ft elevation. Just curious if this would be worth while trying
Hi, How do you think, if you will make rich mix by this screw, it will be more fuel in engine and it will be that fuel in crankshaft bearing. So, will it couse bearing damage, because there will be more fuel vs oil/air.
Thanks,
This is what I need to do 👌
I felt like my tpi ran rich from factory, esp in Colorado at high elevation. I guess it really depends where you are located if the TPI will run lean from factory, but mine sure didnt, it ran rich for me. barely any air and just too much gas. it ran fine in Texas and Utah, but not in CO. I needed to open up that butterly and with this idle, I can finally idle correctly and adjust the air bypass like a normal carb. makes a huge difference.
Air screw = idle stabilisation valve on cars with wire driven throttle.Except this is not an active device.But on car engine,opening the throttle to mod the idle gets the ecu OUT of the idle map.How does this ecu work?
Hi buddy is it the same on 4strokes
Hello m'y 2020 exc 250 tpi doesn't start with electrical starter, i need ton push.
After starting, at low speedy, it want to stop.
Any Idea about this problème? Batterie? Piston? Capteur ?
Thanks!
Do you know how many turns out the bypass screw would be for a factory setting on a 22 300xc? I may have played with mine trying to adjust idle and now the bottom end of rev range is terrible
I had to do this to my 22 Gasgas ex250. Always had to blip the throttle when closed going downhill to keep it running. Worth the money to not have to do that😂
I have an 2018 Xcw 250 tipi was for 2 yrs starting fine.Now won’t start on choke only off. Takes 10 min to get going with it off. Is this my solution.? I’ve changed plug 10 mil gas crb filt. Bike mechanics here have no clue in Bradenton Florida.I’m ready to give up on ktm I spent 10000 I’m not rich
Hi! Can you help me please?
I just bought a 2018 exc 250 tpi, during my first ride i realise that after i start the bike my oil light wont turn of completely, it stays always on. I start the bike, the light turns on very bright and a few seconds "turns off" the bright and stay always on with a less bright light and never turns off completely.
Im not sure but i think before the light used to turn off completely, is this normal?
When i got home after that ride( 3 hours rt ,79km) i refilled the oil tank and measured that took about 60ml to fill up again.
So it is not oil faulty...
Hello, something strange happened to me with my tpi 2020..I inserted the air screw at 3 half a turn and the engine turned off .. and never wanted to turn on ... Verique spark gasoline spark plug and everything is fine..the engine starts to start but it does not start ... and it was since I moved the air screw ... could you help me?
What causes them to stop idling? I have a 23 te300 that has ran flawlessly for 60 hours. Right at 60 hours it stopped idling. I don't want to install the mod as a bandaid because this seems like an actual problem
I bought an 18' 250 TPI with 34 hours on it. Immediately, buyers remorse set in. It fouled plugs on startup badly enough that they needed changed- a PITA, because the tank needs to be lifted. Secondly it didn't want to idle, precluding the factory recommended starting procedure of not touching the throttle. Thirdly, it ran like shit,
So, after getting my online education about these matters, I did the throttle screw mod, an replaced the CCP sensor.
A total sucess! Bike runs, starts, and idles as you'd expect it too. After riding it my opinion went from "bummed" to "stoked". Futher stoke comes from the fact that I don't need to buy an expensive ECU replacement, or throw other parts replacement money at it. Can't wait to get on it again.
Isn't the air going into the engine through the bypass being seen as pressure by the CCP? Doesn't the CCP rerplace the MAF found in cars?
Is the TPS signal not a basic map, then modified by CCP, water temp.,and ambient sensors? I went to bed a short while ago, and this is robbing me of sleep!
I own a 2021' EXC 250 TPI the default bypass screw is 2 and 3/4 but my bikes have a tricky pipe bang when I release the accelerator. Should I resolve it with the idle screw mods? How many rounds Do i need to set the bypass screw after the installation of idle screw ? Thank you
Props to 'Dave at Two Stroke Performance'' for this great information!!
2.5 mm allen for my 2020 TX 300i. Wasn't too bad to remove. New screw arrives on Saturday. Tried some of that Bob Smith Industries UN-Cure stuff, but that didn't work. Small Benzomatic for about a minute did the job.
Total newb question, if this mod is adjusting the butterfly, wouldn’t adjusting the throttle cable play at the throttle do the same thing without having to do all this?
Hey Kyle, I've got a 2021 300 XC-W, and it idles a bit high, But it also has a hanging idle on occasion when decelerating in first gear, the RPM's just stay pinned. Would adjusting the air screw mod be enough to fix this problem or would I need to do the IDLE screw fix? TYIA
So if the air screw is for emissions, why would it richen or lean the mixture? This would defeat its purpose. Wouldnt the EFI adjust the fueling acordingly?
12k CDN bike, here is a hack to make it idle properly, which involves removing your $1k carburetor, ridiculous. i love ktm and their technology but its just simply seems untested when they put it to the consumer and leave them to beta test
hello, for a few laps I feel that my 300 tpi is slower in revving and it seems to have less power, I thought it was because it's very cold but now I'm evaluating the problem you describe in the video, what do you think? Do you also feel a slight decrease in power in cold weather? the bike has 40 hours.
My GPX tse 250 has a mikuni carborator. It’s runs excellent. I hear and see a lot of modifications. On these expensive bikes . I have made some upgrades like better tires, seat and larger gas tank. The GPX cost me 5600$ with a 6 month warranty 🤔
I just got my wife a brand new 2020 150 xcw and it quit after only an hr of riding. Please tell me what it could be????? 🤔
Hey Kyle should I get a used carb 2-stroke or a used tpi 2-stroke?
Storm Wind carburetor with a lectron
TPI
I didn’t need this until putting an fmf expansion pipe on my bike. Kept stalling out once warmed up. Thanks for the video.
This trick can fix the problems of exc 250 tpi 2019 .. ?? Oil pump? And all the shit there in tpi ?? Plis tell me
Awesome video I've actually had to do this to my ktm 250 tpi 😊😊
Kyle, was your bike soft on the low end? Did you change from 3 and 1/2 turns out after you installed the idle screw?
On bikes we have luckyli euro 4 in Switzerland 😅 hope it doesnt change cuz 75dbs sound like a clap on a steak🙈
Being able to turn that bypass in should richen the mixture and make the bike run with more torque, right?
This is an almost must do for rekluse guys.
Kyle how do you bleed the oil pump after pulling the line from the pump to the throttle body? I heard its a pretty important step.
Advice will be appreciated - I followed all the steps, but for the life of me, I could not get the screw loose. Any ideas?
Nice work!
Big thanks for this video. My GasGas EX300 now rocks. Idle is on spot.
If you don't have a flat blade screw driver a Costco card will also work.
anyone know if KTM/husky sorted this lean idle issue out for 2021 ??
First!
I did the "idle screw mod" on my '18 250i last spring. Worked great but in Michigan the elevation is mostly between 800 and 1,500 feet above sea level, when I had the "air screw" adjusted to "closed" it really did not want to start (but started and ran fine when warm), I ended up backing it out a ½ turn and then it would start ok and run good. This spring I might even try setting it at 3/4 turn out, but overall I am happy with the mod.
Hey mate do I need to tune if I put pro circuit shorty pipe on the rear ? Cause mine splutters at half through
I have the same Calipers, from my current reloading!!
Hello, I am beginner with two stroke. How can I tell that my idle is too lean or too rich?
Great video. I have a problem with my 2020 TPI . It seems to over fuel on start up. Have you ever had a problem like that?
A cuantas vueltas dejaste tu polea de aire porque orita estoy teniendo el problema que se ahoga
Awesome video! Mine is going to need that i have a 2019 tpi and she doesn´t even idle but runs great tho not even a problem!
Thanks for the awesome vid Kyle! Just picked up a new 2019 KTM 250 Xc-W TPI and it makes me feel uneasy how lean it runs! I will be doing this mod for sure. Any recommendations to get the bike running more rich at high rpm as well?
I do like those RCBS calipers. Go green!
For 30 years or more fuel injected things have had idle speed regulated by air bypass....without buying different screws and jacking butterfly open more..
agreed, but 30 years ago there wasn't the euro4/5, EPA and other regulatory bodies to make manufacturers do silly things in the name of emissions. ''Oh you make more bikes than X qty, you must now restrict your bikes to sell them sorry ! btw if you make them modifiable, we're sending lawyers up yo ass''.
Can you change the ratio of oil mixing in the tip ?
Noticed the "green" calipers 😉
What calibers did you reload?
Instead of a flame, try using a soldering iron to heat the bolt. It works better than a flame in a tight spot.
I just tried that yesterday and stripped my grub screw. Mine must have extra red Loctite on it or something. It didn't budge, and I had it quite hot. Now I get to pull the damn bike apart and figure out how to get the stripped grub screw out, yea!
I did mine about 6-7 months ago. Completely changed the idle and gave me some peace of mind.
Love your channel and your video's. Thank you for going over this mod. I've been thinking about doing this on my 19 300 XCW TPI. The bike runs flawlessly and has never failed me, I just want to richen the mixture just a tad, ... Been riding smokers for a long, long time... I've always jetted the bikes just a tad rich with great results. I expect the same or better with this bike. The low idle has never caused the bike to stall or stumbled, personally I just prefer the idle a little higher. This solves both small issues I had with the bike. I've reviewed Jeff's video, and others, but now that I've seen yours, I'm comfortable to make this change. Once again, thanks, it's much appreciated.
I made this mod over the weekend. After watching yours and other video's on the procedure, I was comfortable with the procedure. Total time was about 2 hours, which included cleaning a lot of parts of the bike which usually are not exposed. I set a timer on my cell phone for two minutes . I ran the torch on the backside of the bolt, after 90 seconds, the lock tight started to bubble, after two minutes I was able to turn the screw 1/2 turn before I got tight again. Another 30 seconds and it came out without and fuss. I put Salves screw into the throttle body, modified the throttle body cover, and reinstalled. As a starting point, I set the air screw at 1/2 turn. After going through the proper wake up procedure, I fired up the bike, and set the idle to my liking. I feel she runs even better... I know its just my imagination, but I'm much happier that I did the mod. Thanks for the informative video, it is truly appreciated.
30 dollar bolt and spring that cost a couple bucks at fastenal. Does it even come in orange bling?
Well make your own!!
So stupid. A purely off-road bike should not have to deal with emissions at all!
it's road legal in some country :(
dont forget to always tune your bike after it is up to operating temperature. thanks for the video!
Is that the bike you put the ECU into?
Why spend $35 on a screw when you'll only need to adjust the bike once ? Just use the factory screw ! You can easily do it with out removing the throttle body once you break that lock tight. I did'nt even need to heat mine to get it moving and after two rides I got it settled perfectly were I wanted it and never needed to touch it again 😉
PS: Great video Kyle 👍 but when Jeff start's selling those screws for like $10 I mite buy one just because it looks nice 😂
You need to be able to adjust it and not have lock tite.
@@DirtBikeChannel I adjusted mine and then put some lock tight when I found the perfect setting. Never needed to touch it again since a year ago. Don't get me wrong I love the idea of the screw by Jeff's but $35 it's just over the moon !
Wow... Guy who selling bolts for 30$ price fucking genius!!! I mean really - some idio.. buing that.. wow. I did the same for 1$ at all. Also I added bushing there.. Some one who need it mail me, will do that for 15$. ha-ha :D
Whats 30 bux for a 15000 dollar bike
@@boblogIIIfan wow... dude, I bought mine for a 9300$(standard exc 300 tpi), six days version 11.000. Buy in right places.
@@vicniceful in australia they are 15k
Your welcome Kyle..😜
Arnie,
Love you're videos
are you a qualified mechanic Kyle ?
Can i do this on my 150 Tpi 2020?
Yea you can!
Sounds good
Good video kyle
Good to see the emmissions explained..
Annoys me to see so many internet people ask 'why doesnt this bike run like my carby bike'
30 bux for a screw is approx one THIRD of ONE PERCENT of the cost of a bike (16,000$ AUD) lol
Or a steak dinner
How do I adjust the power valve on these bikes? Do I mess with the two screws on the side of the power valve screw? Or can I just use the tool and turn the power valve screw out 1/4 turn? Mine came from factory turned way in.
Why not just use the existing idle screw? Back it out to where you want and re-loctite it.
These are US off-road bikes. They are different than the Euro compliant bikes.
Interesting on needing to meet emissions once they make so many bikes. the GasGas purchase makes more sense now. The more brands they can spread sales too the less emissions they have to worry about.
So could this be a recall and paid my KTM?
13k CDN bike, you have to do this to fix it...
Hola si cierro el tornillo de bypass del aire del cuerpo de mariposa la moto consume menos gasolina o más????? Gracias🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hey Kyle, quick question. Would it be possible to just put an older keihn or mikuni carburator on? Why keep a TPI carb when older carbs are so easy to find for cheap
Does my Engine runs with this longer?
Mine fine, my pals is fine....tpi /te are not broke so why are you trying to fix it...lol