Some maintenance tips for others maybe having vibration problems. Don't assume the rotor bearings are ok. I've just changed mine ( along with the slipring ) and the difference is astonishing. I had gotten used to a fair amount of vibration coming down the mast and echoing down the hillside towards my house. After changing the rotor bearings the vibration and noise has completely disappeared. Like car bearings, these can create a fair old racket and a lot of vibration but seem quite smooth once theyre off the vehicle. Free play in bearings is sometimes not easily detected but the symptoms certainly are!. Thanks Kilkenny Homestead for all the help. Terrific video..
You were right about the hardest part being the positioning of the end caps! What a b%^&* of a job!. I tried your method of using 4x2's with a slight mod. Used two threaded bars & nuts to pull the timbers together. Trick is to tighten up so that the turbine is well jammed in place.. Then used a heavy leather mallet to nudge the caps. Very satisying to hear them plop into place!. Thanks so much for this video!. Pity that ista don’t do a maintenace manual/video. A must have when slip rings go out after a couple of years.
Great video. I have two i1500s Up 3 years now. Generally only run them in the winter months. Bearings still smooth. Still on original slip rings. Fingers crossed for the winter coming. Did great last year. Was thinking of adding a third but tempted by hefy looking FltXny brand on Aliexpress.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 They also variously come under brand names REAL, B&C, B Creations, Green Energy, Bayoung and Smaraad. Polish/Danish youtuber "4nrgy Tech" has some good vids on these. Probably same factory in "Wuxi" engineering district but with different brand labels. Big diameters for power ratings : 3.2m 1000w, 3.8m 2000w so not the usually daft ratings v diameter one sees of Chinese machines. I see that Photonic Universe sell similar ones too. These are really big heavy generators with tail furling mechanisms. There is of course our trusted Istabreeze Heli2 ( bigger diameter3 blade version ). Certainly, over the last 3 years, mid September , solar dies on it's backside and my two i1500's take over. Then in March, it's back to solar. If the Istas were grid tied I'd just let them run during the brighter months too but it's not worth the wear and tear when solar is so plentiful. But sorely tempted to get a bigger turbine for winter ( if just for the sheer fun of it! ). Anyway thanks for a great channel. This repair video on the i1500 is invaluable!
@randymch possibly however I can see 2 possible issues. 1: connector size may not be sufficient to carry amperage, 2: wago may eventually developed corrosion due to atmospheric moisture content. With all that said they'd be no better or worse than other alternatives excluding soldering.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Soldering method is easy and foolproof. But, the wires for the slipring are quite heavy gauge so I found it easier to use a small portable gas torch to solder the wires, rather than my electric soldering iron.
@nhikoid the soldering is a matter of having a good soldering iron for the heavy gauge wire to be fair. Glad to hear that the repairs are progressing nicely for you.
Thanks for your help. That worked a treat!The top bearing of the dual set was fine (6008 c3's ). The bottom one was really badly knackered. One thing...do you have a link or model no. for that uprated slipring ?. Hope xmas has gone well. By the way, my two i1500s have knocked it out ot the park for generation, way outstripping my panels.
Shouldnt have spoken too soon. One of my i1500's went completely nuts in the storm a few days ago. Sounded like a helecopter !. Thought it was going to break up. Took it down today, in between peeling sprouts etc and discovered two problems. The slipring was completely shot. No slipring meant no braking. And the vertical swivel bearing is a bit knackered. After a degree of brutality and moderately bad language I've managed to get the whole machine disassembled without destroying it. Ive got the two big circlips off the vertical spindle but I cannot get it to budge. Did you whack yours out or press it with clamps?
@@nhikoid is it that you can't get it out of the rear generator housing? If so, what I did with mine was to get a long 1/2 Inch extension bar, secure the housing in a vice or between your legs and tap hard with a hammer against the inner neck that protrudes through the bearings gradually working the spindle free from the housing. To remove the dual bearings from the spindle you will need to support the bearings with something solid and tap the spindle out with a hammer or use a hydraulic press to push the spindle clear out of the two bearings.
@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Thanks for taking the time for that detailed reply, especially on Xmas eve ! ( a virtual Xmas pressie! ). I'll give that a go.
So slip ring rated to 12v 60 amps now, if thats one wire 12v 30amp x 6 = 6000+watts ! thought i sore on an turkey website say the generator can reach 90-120 volts, should last a life time. So much fun ! tried lifting thoughs pannels with threaded bar and a drill ! stripped the threadeds in the middle of the bar ! didnt counter balance them wood was wet, longer nut would lift pannels better as well. inspired me to piant mine now.
@@HenryOwens-py3ur ah wishful thinking for this turbine to ever produce 6kw unfortunately but at least it will never suffer slip ring failure again. What happened with drilling the panels? Were you drilling into a threaded hole?
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 A threaded nut, which i jammed in between a washer and a into a scaffold tube, i got abit premature exited and didnt line things up plus the wieght of the water. so going to buy a connecting nut counter balance the over hung end, just carnt use that threaded bar, have to get new
Great video! Do you know what is the difference between i1500 and i2000 except max output? Price is the same in here. Is there a good reason to buy with carbon blades? Maybe those are lighter so it will spin easier?
@@JoniK1 thanks, just a slightly bigger generator on the i2000. The weight difference of the blades is questionable. We have had 2 sets of carbon blades, supposed to be identical however had 100grams weight difference on each blade. If the prices are the same for i1500 and i2000 maybe go for the bigger one.
Hey Kilkenny, you did a video explaining how dc and ac electricity runs down a wire cable, went and brought the cheapest 2.5mm to find all solid core wire and have now found all my wind turbine cables have black coated wires inside the conduit, it this burnt or corroded ? is it a good swop from wound wire to solid core for the windturbine ? Thanks Henry
@@HenryOwens-py3ur Hi Henry, what turbine are you running? I'm guessing you didn't check the amperage rating on wire before purchasing. 2.5mm is usually only good for 13amps safely per conductor. If your turbine is not rectified internally and is sending A/C current to the control unit then A/C cable would be preferable between turbine and controller, then use D/C cable to connect controller to batteries.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Running the 48v I2000, the 2.5mm solid core cables comeing from the turbine to the controller. Thinking it could be damp crossing the cable s and corroding the wire inside
@@HenryOwens-py3ur 2000w ÷ 48 =41.6 amps +25%= 52.08. You need to use 10mm2 cable if you're using t+e. The next size down is 6mm2 which is rated for 40amps so would be no good. If you look up "amps calculator" in your search engine it'll help you know how many amps a circuit could potentially carry, so you can choose the correct cable size next time and avoid making the same mistake. Once you know how many max amps your device will output then add 25% as a safety margin and choose your cable size based on that.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Thanks for the advise, i remember now i brought it for my 300w wind turbine, but just disparate to get this i2000 up, but that will have to wait. Ive come up with the disision to make the 300w moveable ! placeing the turbine on a pole on pallet 3.5m high, with two ridged sway bars to each corner of the pallet and using turbuckles and wire rope to ancher it in place, like you would a tent, moveble too 15m north of the 700w and 15m west of the 700w, giveing me upto 33mph offset charge rates, straightening out the charge curve.
@@ai4px howdy, just a matter of the control system really. Have to set up some bench testing to get an idea of output at given rotation speeds. If it were only making 10amps in a 20mph mph wind at 48v it would be pretty poor. With that said it does have to be integrated in to the existing system one way or the other.
Some maintenance tips for others maybe having vibration problems. Don't assume the rotor bearings are ok. I've just changed mine ( along with the slipring ) and the difference is astonishing. I had gotten used to a fair amount of vibration coming down the mast and echoing down the hillside towards my house. After changing the rotor bearings the vibration and noise has completely disappeared. Like car bearings, these can create a fair old racket and a lot of vibration but seem quite smooth once theyre off the vehicle. Free play in bearings is sometimes not easily detected but the symptoms certainly are!. Thanks Kilkenny Homestead for all the help. Terrific video..
@nhikoid very good advice. Glad your turbine is back in action, well done on the successful rebuild. 👏
You were right about the hardest part being the positioning of the end caps! What a b%^&* of a job!. I tried your method of using 4x2's with a slight mod. Used two threaded bars & nuts to pull the timbers together. Trick is to tighten up so that the turbine is well jammed in place.. Then used a heavy leather mallet to nudge the caps. Very satisying to hear them plop into place!. Thanks so much for this video!. Pity that ista don’t do a maintenace manual/video. A must have when slip rings go out after a couple of years.
Really good content here. Thank you for sharing.
@@CrazedCrittic thank you!
Wind turbine maintenance is very good
@@Suavache thank you.
Very interesting. Thanks for the video
@@jean-paulcastellano9589 Great to have you watching Jean Paul, hope all is well.
GOOD !
trabajo fantástico!!
@@tenaseolic thank you.
Great video. I have two i1500s Up 3 years now. Generally only run them in the winter months. Bearings still smooth. Still on original slip rings. Fingers crossed for the winter coming. Did great last year. Was thinking of adding a third but tempted by hefy looking FltXny brand on Aliexpress.
@@nhikoid Thanks. You're doing well with yours which is great to hear. Must have a look at that turbine on alixpress
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 They also variously come under brand names REAL, B&C, B Creations, Green Energy, Bayoung and Smaraad. Polish/Danish youtuber "4nrgy Tech" has some good vids on these. Probably same factory in "Wuxi" engineering district but with different brand labels. Big diameters for power ratings : 3.2m 1000w, 3.8m 2000w so not the usually daft ratings v diameter one sees of Chinese machines. I see that Photonic Universe sell similar ones too. These are really big heavy generators with tail furling mechanisms. There is of course our trusted Istabreeze Heli2 ( bigger diameter3 blade version ). Certainly, over the last 3 years, mid September , solar dies on it's backside and my two i1500's take over. Then in March, it's back to solar. If the Istas were grid tied I'd just let them run during the brighter months too but it's not worth the wear and tear when solar is so plentiful. But sorely tempted to get a bigger turbine for winter ( if just for the sheer fun of it! ). Anyway thanks for a great channel. This repair video on the i1500 is invaluable!
Wondering if Wago connectors would be better than the ceramic connector block?
@randymch possibly however I can see 2 possible issues. 1: connector size may not be sufficient to carry amperage, 2: wago may eventually developed corrosion due to atmospheric moisture content. With all that said they'd be no better or worse than other alternatives excluding soldering.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Soldering method is easy and foolproof. But, the wires for the slipring are quite heavy gauge so I found it easier to use a small portable gas torch to solder the wires, rather than my electric soldering iron.
@nhikoid the soldering is a matter of having a good soldering iron for the heavy gauge wire to be fair. Glad to hear that the repairs are progressing nicely for you.
@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 It’s back up on the tower. Just waiting for a bit of wind.
irish flag on the tail would look good, thanks buddy
Thanks for your help. That worked a treat!The top bearing of the dual set was fine (6008 c3's ). The bottom one was really badly knackered. One thing...do you have a link or model no. for that uprated slipring ?. Hope xmas has gone well. By the way, my two i1500s have knocked it out ot the park for generation, way outstripping my panels.
Glad it worked out for you. Don't have a link but the part no for the bigger slipring is: Moflon "MW1630"
Shouldnt have spoken too soon. One of my i1500's went completely nuts in the storm a few days ago. Sounded like a helecopter !. Thought it was going to break up. Took it down today, in between peeling sprouts etc and discovered two problems. The slipring was completely shot. No slipring meant no braking. And the vertical swivel bearing is a bit knackered. After a degree of brutality and moderately bad language I've managed to get the whole machine disassembled without destroying it. Ive got the two big circlips off the vertical spindle but I cannot get it to budge. Did you whack yours out or press it with clamps?
@@nhikoid is it that you can't get it out of the rear generator housing? If so, what I did with mine was to get a long 1/2 Inch extension bar, secure the housing in a vice or between your legs and tap hard with a hammer against the inner neck that protrudes through the bearings gradually working the spindle free from the housing. To remove the dual bearings from the spindle you will need to support the bearings with something solid and tap the spindle out with a hammer or use a hydraulic press to push the spindle clear out of the two bearings.
@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Thanks for taking the time for that detailed reply, especially on Xmas eve ! ( a virtual Xmas pressie! ). I'll give that a go.
You don't happen to know the factory slippering part number do you?
Or at least the factory ring diameter?
@SJV82 hello and thanks for your question, model no: THR022-03, diameter 22mm, length 43mm.
So slip ring rated to 12v 60 amps now, if thats one wire 12v 30amp x 6 = 6000+watts ! thought i sore on an turkey website say the generator can reach 90-120 volts, should last a life time. So much fun ! tried lifting thoughs pannels with threaded bar and a drill ! stripped the threadeds in the middle of the bar ! didnt counter balance them wood was wet, longer nut would lift pannels better as well. inspired me to piant mine now.
@@HenryOwens-py3ur ah wishful thinking for this turbine to ever produce 6kw unfortunately but at least it will never suffer slip ring failure again. What happened with drilling the panels? Were you drilling into a threaded hole?
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 A threaded nut, which i jammed in between a washer and a into a scaffold tube, i got abit premature exited and didnt line things up plus the wieght of the water. so going to buy a connecting nut counter balance the over hung end, just carnt use that threaded bar, have to get new
looking forward to see it under braking now, i think it will stop it in its tracks, still gotta dumpload, sliding connections wont last for ever.
@@HenryOwens-py3ur there's always something isn't there? It would be a rarity for a project to go right first time. Hope you get it sorted. 👍
@@HenryOwens-py3ur there's always something isn't there? It would be a rarity for a project to go right first time. Hope you get it sorted. 👍
Great video! Do you know what is the difference between i1500 and i2000 except max output? Price is the same in here. Is there a good reason to buy with carbon blades? Maybe those are lighter so it will spin easier?
@@JoniK1 thanks, just a slightly bigger generator on the i2000. The weight difference of the blades is questionable. We have had 2 sets of carbon blades, supposed to be identical however had 100grams weight difference on each blade. If the prices are the same for i1500 and i2000 maybe go for the bigger one.
Do you know what the size the nut for the blade hub is
@Gbemudu_ not sure of thread pitch but it's an m18 nut with an outer diameter of 27mm
Hey Kilkenny, you did a video explaining how dc and ac electricity runs down a wire cable, went and brought the cheapest 2.5mm to find all solid core wire and have now found all my wind turbine cables have black coated wires inside the conduit, it this burnt or corroded ? is it a good swop from wound wire to solid core for the windturbine ? Thanks Henry
@@HenryOwens-py3ur Hi Henry, what turbine are you running? I'm guessing you didn't check the amperage rating on wire before purchasing. 2.5mm is usually only good for 13amps safely per conductor. If your turbine is not rectified internally and is sending
A/C current to the control unit then A/C cable would be preferable between turbine and controller, then use D/C cable to connect controller to batteries.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Running the 48v I2000, the 2.5mm solid core cables comeing from the turbine to the controller. Thinking it could be damp crossing the cable s and corroding the wire inside
@@HenryOwens-py3ur 2000w ÷ 48 =41.6 amps +25%= 52.08.
You need to use 10mm2 cable if you're using t+e. The next size down is 6mm2 which is rated for 40amps so would be no good. If you look up "amps calculator" in your search engine it'll help you know how many amps a circuit could potentially carry, so you can choose the correct cable size next time and avoid making the same mistake. Once you know how many max amps your device will output then add 25% as a safety margin and choose your cable size based on that.
@@ourkilkennyhomestead2006 Thanks for the advise, i remember now i brought it for my 300w wind turbine, but just disparate to get this i2000 up, but that will have to wait. Ive come up with the disision to make the 300w moveable ! placeing the turbine on a pole on pallet 3.5m high, with two ridged sway bars to each corner of the pallet and using turbuckles and wire rope to ancher it in place, like you would a tent, moveble too 15m north of the 700w and 15m west of the 700w, giveing me upto 33mph offset charge rates, straightening out the charge curve.
Got it, the 2.5mm at 30meters £30, i only need 15m to the I2000, another 30m, so 4x2.5mm gets me my 10mm2 cable, forgot the 300w and 700w 60m needed
I hope it wasn't British Battleship Grey lol
if it makes 87v, then it should be convertible to 48v.
@@ai4px howdy, just a matter of the control system really. Have to set up some bench testing to get an idea of output at given rotation speeds. If it were only making 10amps in a 20mph mph wind at 48v it would be pretty poor. With that said it does have to be integrated in to the existing system one way or the other.
Nope, not Gonna work. It's a 5 blade.