This is exactly the issue that my gf's car has. I found the leak but did not know how to disassemble the necessary parts. This was the perfect video/tutorial from start to finish -- I appreciate it! Great content!
Thanks for you video. If i may add.. Disconnecting the ECU connectors then the battery box gives you a straight shot at the housing bolts, and makes the job much easier. Also zip ties are your friend to keep hoses and wires out of the way. :)
Trying to diagnose this on a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L - I can see coolant gushing out in the area between head and coolant housing, but unable to see if it's housing or a gasket failure. Considering the amount of labour involved, it's going to be worthwhile to replace both. Thanks for video.
I need help plz. I've followed your every move so far and my air box is stuck. There's nothing that I see that would explain this. I'm afraid to just yank on it. It jiggles but one corner feels like it would if it was screwed down. Plz advise. Also, I really love your style of auto mechanic work. I can actually follow along and understand. Keep it up! Thanks!
Hello, are you trying to install or remove the airbox? Typically, there are 4 clips that hold the airbox down. There is the one clip in the upper left corner that may be hard to see make sure that is removed/unclipped before removing or installing the airbox back. Also, some aftermarket air filters may make installation difficult because some may have a thick black rubber gasket piece on the air filter itself that makes it difficult to seat the airbox back in. It's easier to install the left portion of the airbox first before doing the right side. There are 2 notches that line up on the left side so you need to watch out for that. When you install the airbox back make sure to clip the upper left corner clip first before the others sometimes that clip is hard to put back in. You will need to tilt or angle the airbox in and out to install or remove. Let me know if that helps. I appreciate your support and feedback thanks a lot! 🙏
Agreed. But I guess a car with aluminium or stainless from the get go would be cost prohibitive. My old Land Rover got a bearing leak from the water pump last year, at about 45 years since installation! In the old days you carried a set of radiator hoses. These days I’d recommend a set of these plastic manifolds and housings!
Hello, im having a similar leak on my 08 Mazda 3 2.0, the only difference is the leak isnt directly out of the housing, it appears as if its coming from the hex seal directly above the housing on the engine side there. Could this still be the same housing leak, just coming through the gasket? Worried I'll replace the housing and still have a leak!
Thanks. Upgraded aluminum housings are very good, but I would not really trust it if it's coming from Ali Express. I would use a reputable brand at the very least. I have used aftermarket aluminum housings before on other vehicles such as Dorman and they seem to work pretty well although I have been skeptical of the Dorman brand for many years due to problems with them, but some of their other stuff seems to work fairly well though.
31.45 and 31.50 is where you can see the inner flange that retains the gasket is broken. It could be over time the gasket swells and cracks it there? Then without the support of the inner flange the gasket splits and voila… leak. Mine broke exactly the same place.
There's just too much plastic crap on cars these days that's all. Plastic doesn't do well with heat. The plastic gets hard and brittle and so does the rubber gasket material so it eventually leaks with time after many heat and cold cycles. Eventually all plastic parts will need to be replaced sooner or later, but some plastic parts are well made while others are very cheaply made.
No need. I don't like to create extra work for myself. I had enough room to do the job which is sufficient for me, but may not be sufficient for less experienced do-it-yourselfers so to each their own way. This is how I do the repairs.
The job is already done buddy. Just be thankful that this video is out to help others. I don't know what else you want. Clearly it's the reason why you are here watching it.
This is exactly the issue that my gf's car has. I found the leak but did not know how to disassemble the necessary parts. This was the perfect video/tutorial from start to finish -- I appreciate it! Great content!
Thanks for you video. If i may add.. Disconnecting the ECU connectors then the battery box gives you a straight shot at the housing bolts, and makes the job much easier. Also zip ties are your friend to keep hoses and wires out of the way. :)
I broke the coolant house nipple on this part while changing the coolant temp sensor and used this video to put new water outlet. Thanks for making.
Great video. I now think after watching this that is where my coolant is leaking as well. Thank you for this step by step tutorial
Hi from Dublin
You done well without moving the battery tnks for the vid and the bleeding process cheers
Removing the battery box makes its MUCH MUCH easier to access the coolant manifold, look up transmission mount replacement videos for reference.
thank you for this video, first video ive seen where you dont remove everything battery,hoses etc!
Trying to diagnose this on a 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L - I can see coolant gushing out in the area between head and coolant housing, but unable to see if it's housing or a gasket failure. Considering the amount of labour involved, it's going to be worthwhile to replace both. Thanks for video.
I need help plz. I've followed your every move so far and my air box is stuck. There's nothing that I see that would explain this. I'm afraid to just yank on it. It jiggles but one corner feels like it would if it was screwed down. Plz advise. Also, I really love your style of auto mechanic work. I can actually follow along and understand. Keep it up! Thanks!
Hello, are you trying to install or remove the airbox? Typically, there are 4 clips that hold the airbox down. There is the one clip in the upper left corner that may be hard to see make sure that is removed/unclipped before removing or installing the airbox back. Also, some aftermarket air filters may make installation difficult because some may have a thick black rubber gasket piece on the air filter itself that makes it difficult to seat the airbox back in. It's easier to install the left portion of the airbox first before doing the right side. There are 2 notches that line up on the left side so you need to watch out for that. When you install the airbox back make sure to clip the upper left corner clip first before the others sometimes that clip is hard to put back in.
You will need to tilt or angle the airbox in and out to install or remove. Let me know if that helps. I appreciate your support and feedback thanks a lot! 🙏
great video! thank you
Agreed. But I guess a car with aluminium or stainless from the get go would be cost prohibitive. My old Land Rover got a bearing leak from the water pump last year, at about 45 years since installation!
In the old days you carried a set of radiator hoses. These days I’d recommend a set of these plastic manifolds and housings!
Hello, im having a similar leak on my 08 Mazda 3 2.0, the only difference is the leak isnt directly out of the housing, it appears as if its coming from the hex seal directly above the housing on the engine side there. Could this still be the same housing leak, just coming through the gasket? Worried I'll replace the housing and still have a leak!
Thanks for the video, what do you think about this water outlet in aluminum that sell in AliExpress, its better than plastic?. Thanks in advance.
Thanks. Upgraded aluminum housings are very good, but I would not really trust it if it's coming from Ali Express. I would use a reputable brand at the very least.
I have used aftermarket aluminum housings before on other vehicles such as Dorman and they seem to work pretty well although I have been skeptical of the Dorman brand for many years due to problems with them, but some of their other stuff seems to work fairly well though.
Hi OP u have to think too - how far will the car go? My original broke at 300,000km. If the second one lasts to 600,000km I’ll be happy with that!
31.45 and 31.50 is where you can see the inner flange that retains the gasket is broken. It could be over time the gasket swells and cracks it there? Then without the support of the inner flange the gasket splits and voila… leak. Mine broke exactly the same place.
There's just too much plastic crap on cars these days that's all. Plastic doesn't do well with heat. The plastic gets hard and brittle and so does the rubber gasket material so it eventually leaks with time after many heat and cold cycles. Eventually all plastic parts will need to be replaced sooner or later, but some plastic parts are well made while others are very cheaply made.
Where does that small hose coming off the back of the coolant outlet go? I can't figure it out
for the love of god.. remove the battery and battery tray/ecu.. it would've been so much easier for you .
No need. I don't like to create extra work for myself. I had enough room to do the job which is sufficient for me, but may not be sufficient for less experienced do-it-yourselfers so to each their own way. This is how I do the repairs.
@@moosemobileautorepair i do this for a living. You clearly lost alot of time because of lack of space. To each their own.
The job is already done buddy. Just be thankful that this video is out to help others. I don't know what else you want. Clearly it's the reason why you are here watching it.
@@moosemobileautorepair yes yes dont take it so badly. Good job on the video regardless.
Awful Ford design