I believe that the first one about then maximum sharpness is mostly an anachronism. The one about Focus breading: it actuality has two meanings that are technically related , but not in the practice they are not related (one is use in video, the one Tony mentioned mostly in photography). The video is super valuable and correct.
I both enjoyed the informative information you presented but being a newbie to mirrorless cameras I am at a loss and am a bit confused by so much information. I do hope that over time that I will be better at understanding and applying the complexity of this craft. For me it has been over 30 years since I applied and used an old film 35mm camera. To give a simple analogy, it reminded me of the comparison of the artistic trained and the untrained but naturally gifted. As you brought out in your narrative, it’s not the equipment but in the individual who makes the difference of being good to becoming better. Again, thank you for presentation, I look forward to enjoying and being further informed as I have seen in several of your videos.
I always appreciate how respectful Tony is. He'll make a point (e.g., re: filters), and then say, "But if you're happy with your results, keep doing what you do." He (and Chelsea) are extraordinary camera nerds and great teachers, but underlying everything they say is the idea that they just want people to enjoy their photography. They are precise and objective, and even dogmatic when the have to be, yet always gracious. It's the kind of rare combination that makes the 900k of us that follow them so happy.
True. It's also what distinguishes a true professional from a self-proclaimed one - the attitude towards those who don't possess the knowledge (yet) and/or are inexperienced and seek help.
alot of people talk shit about tony northup, but on RUclips he is definitely one of the few people that actually backs up his opinion with facts, really informative, keep up the awesome work man
A robot maybe, but plenty of useful and helpful information, their videos have given me plenty of informaton to work with, think about and use.... Plus some people prefer Robots, like me....
Tony is one of the great photography educators of our time because of his honesty, technical knowledge and passion to help others from being led up the garden path. He saves his listeners from money wasting, time wasting and the frustration that these things bring. Tony's candidness will not be popular with everyone but is gold-dust for those who truly want to cut through the mist and learn with an open-mind.
I came across Tony, whilst checking out technology for a new camera that I wanted. He was the only photographer that allowed me to understand Focal Length & Crop Factors in Photography. He knows what he’s talking about & I respect his knowledge about the immense scientific stuff.
I just want to say that Tony's really won me over with the videos he's been doing lately. A lot of people in the photography community like to bash Tony and say that he's very polarizing, or that he doesn't always know what he's talking about, or that he's biased, or that he's not that good of a photographer. But IMO the videos he's been making speak for themselves. Not only has he become quite knowledgeable, more meticulous, more objective, he's also very good at explaining things in a way that's easy to digest and keep the audience interested. He's also personable and not awkward or abrasive like some popular camera/photography personalities sometimes can be. Keep it up Tony. You've earned a new fan.
A person who can be very abrasive is fro knows photos and his approach can and has been off putting. I've compared the level of detail in content both provides and a lot of what Tony is stating are things I've learned the hard way, but 1st hand. I don't retouch my images as I like the natural feel. The amount of art that gets placed in my images are all in-camera: the choice between flat, renaissance, 3/4 lighting or practicals; fog machine, set design & location, etc. Fro's images seems a bit over processed so I digressed. I don't watch them for their lessons, but point of view. I draw up my own lessons from 1st hand experiences as I have my own style, but I love to see their premise. Kai who used to be part of DRTV was a bit more entertaining than technical, but a lot of the content seemed a bit subjective or not as detailed.
On number 20, one of my friends had a great response to that. People would see his photos and say, "You must have a great camera" His response was, "Yes, I taught it everything it knows."
I'm stealing your friend's line. I get really annoyed that when I show people my underwater photography, many of them first say that I must have great gear. (I don't, by the way.)
While the skill of the photographer is far more important, the specs of the lens and camera definitely make a real difference and that is why many pros use the best lenses and cameras available. The lens matters more than the body for sure though.
I am an enthusiast, not a professional and I find your videos informative, entertaining and most importantly fun. What I find most enjoyable about you and Chelsea's efforts is that you are professionals but you still nurture and support those of us who are hobbyists. I may never make one thin dime as a professional photographer but folks like you, unencumbered by ego and blessed with a love of this art, inspire many like me to do more than just "take pictures." Many thanks.
Tony, you are as of this moment, without a doubt, my very favorite Photography nerd. That is a compliment. I enjoy you and Chelsea's fine work. Thanks.
Your videos are the most informative, concise and clear. Plus, you guys are cute together and entertaining to watch. I ended up purchasing your book and found it very useful.
Tony, I have followed you and Chelsea for a few years now, and this is my first review. I love your description of the products that you review as well as "how to" with different subjects. Thanks
Tony!!! great video mate! its really good you addressed the last point, which is what I hear so much. I am a young photographer only 2-3 years doing it, and I think Ive successfully gained a lot of clients because I capture what is most important.... THE MOMENT!!!!
Found the channel tonight and watched a half dozen videos. Great stuff and I love to see photo channel with someone who is actually very knowledgeable and provides consistently accurate information. The emphasis on skills over gear is so important and something rarely found on RUclips too.
I dont think you guys have any idea how good you really are. Not only at your work, but also making a young man like me, understand every single thing you tell. And I'm not even American. I live in Denmark, Europe. And last week I desited to finally buy my first real DSLR. My very own, Canon 80D. The shop let me in on 2 different lenses, for different situations and gave a small course to start my photography journey. Being a rookie, I desited to go online and search for online tips and tricks. And I found your channel by random. I am so happy I did, thank you so much for the time and effort you guys put in your videoes. It makes it all so simple to understand and you are giving us/me so much with your knowledge and experience. Thank you. Best Regards Thomas
Just discovered your videos, for a 30 year working pro they are still interesting and informative, not because I thought I already knew it all ( I do) but because of the eloquent way you explain everything. Definitely the best photo channel on youtube by a mile.
People that think they know everything know nothing. One should always strive to know as little as possible in order to open themselves up to learning and therefore knowing as much as possible.
The sample you stated for Focus Breathing between Canon and Nikon 70-200 Zoom is not Focus Breathing, its called Bellow Effect ( check large format ref ). Focus breathing is for same lens ( same focal length or fix focal ) that focus from far to near or near to far , that the actual framing shrike and grow ... Bellow Effect is the effect of the image become dimmer, and image circle become larger and effective focal length reduced when a lens is placed with an extension from its ( infinity ) setting , this is well known in Macro lens user
Hi Tony, I am referring to that Nikon 70-200 sample specifically, when it zoom out to 200 and still only give coverage like a 135, that's when its effective focal range is reduced by nature of its optics being moved ( or in this case zoomed ) to a position further from the media and thus projecting a larger image circle, thus giving wider coverage and reduse effective focal length this is technically Bellow Effect. Lens Breathing is technically the effect for a lens ( fix focal or focal length remain the same ) projecting an image on the media that Grows and Shrikes when the focus is pulled. I understand your point but just like to point out that those two are not the same. In these days of most using Zoom that can be confusing.
I see, it was just not conveyed well on the video, I thought Tony mean the lens frame the scene with a coverage aka 135 the same all the way .. Now that's serious lens breathing indeed
BTW, how close is portrait for that would be like, typically when a lens focus down to 10X focal length ( 2m for this lens at 200mm ), its really starting to see Bellow Effect real good and get worse real quick. So if the shoot is anything similar or shorter in subjkect distance it may very well be a combination of both Bellow Effect and Focus Breathing which is rather common in Macro shoot but I've seldom seen it in other subject except when I am doing my Large Format.
As an amateur/student photographer wanting to make my way into the professional world, I love watching these informative vids. Nice to be able to sort the bs from important need to know info. Thanks again Tony!
Really, really good advice. Especially liked the comments near the end where you reinforce the point that whilst the gear helps, it's the photographer's eye and capturing the moment that counts
Tony, I have a suggestion if you don't mind. Would you please put up the links you mention, in the description. It makes things a tiny bit easier and you may get more people going to the links you discuss.
#20 Brought back some things I learned years ago during the film is king days. I was at a camera show, lots of people walking around with expensive cameras, like Haselblads. I attended a presentation by a professional photo finishing company. The guy presenting said "We got a professional photographer to go out and take pictures with this", he held up a Kodak Instamatic 110 point and shoot. They then showed several gorgeous pictures that were several feet high and even more feet long. 1. Some one who knows what they are doing can produce good stuff up to the limit of their equipment. Including the people who print the big stuff. 2. Presenters will only show you something that helps them sell stuff. 3. The main limiting factor for most photographs is the skill of the person behind the camera. 4. I need to keep practicing and learning.
@38:15 Actually on many cameras even focusing a magnified live view image unfortunately does not give exact focus either because the real time scanning of the sensor is done at a reduced resolution due to bandwidth limitations of the electronics. In such cameras (most cameras until recently) you will find that if you set live view to maximum magnification, shoot the picture and then enlarge the image on your PC you will find that you get much more detail in the enlarged image than you could see on the magnified live view image. The reason for this is the same one that has made it take so long for DSLRs to shoot 4K video (and also to some extent why some DSLRs will show moire on video despite having a moire filter and not showing moire in stills). For a 60Hz 4K video the camera needs to read out sixty 8 Megapixel photos every second from the sensor. For live view you can do with lower frame rate but even at 4K resolution you are still at only one quarter of the, say, 32 megapixel resolution your camera shoots stills. You can see how a system that struggles to read sixty 8 Megapixel images every second is not going to be able to read thirty 32 megapixel images every second. There are of course ways around this since when you are live viewing without magnification you don't need the full resolution whereas when you magnify the live view you don't need to readout the full image. In theory one could just read the little rectangle of pixels that will be displayed 1:1 on the LCD at full resolution which would keep down the amount of data that had to be read from the sensor. However this is where practical limitations come in due to the limited flexibility in how data is read off the sensor which prevent a contiguous patch of pixels, even a small one, to be read repeatedly at a high rate, so you instead have to read alternate pixels, alternate lines or something of the sort. It is something that can quite easily be overcome but only if the sensor is designed with this specific requirement in mind.
I clicked on this not expecting much. I then saw the length of the video and immediately started skipping through it... but then found myself heading back to the beginning, watching all 44 minutes of this video. Honestly, there was so much valuable information in this video it's insane. Thanks for this! :)
+Krzysztof Blach This can't be emphasized enough. It's a universal idea across all artistic fields. After all, some of the best photos in history were taken with cameras far less advanced than what we have today, but the Photographers knew what they were doing.
Thank you for being such a good and clear teacher of these things. I feel that thanks to going through many of these old vids I've been able to catch up on so many aspects as a relative beginner. I can tell I'm gradually getting better and not wasting (too much) on unnecessary gear. Eternally grateful.
14:25 If recording to a Atomos, you can pan inside that footage in post. We tend to neglect video from DSL-R cameras, but I see a lot of people using them for that.
thanks tony,,, fantastic comments like always,,,specially the "trusted review" section,,,exactly true one little thing though,,,you said crop factor doesn't effect camera settings but earlier you said it effects needed shutter speed for handholdibility
It is not and never was a rule. It was a suggestion of what would work most of the time for the average person. I knew somebody who would get pin sharp images with a 50mm at 1/2sec. I could get decent at 1/100. Today I would need 1/2000th. But you are correct that it does impact the reciprocal concept, in that if your 50mm lens is acting like a 75mm lens then for most people your minimum handheld shutter speed should be 1/100sec. Your bringing in VR or IR etc confuses matters. I could add, bracing against a wall , using a tripod etc. VR is a mechanical means to control image movement. Which is why it is stated as giving x-amount of added f-stop benefits. Now testing if what they claim is anywhere near true would be fun.
#19 If you are shooting with ambient light yes, learn to meter. However, for multiple light flash photography, I do still them useful. You can quickly nail your lighting ratios and check your flash contribution vs ambient contribution. If I'm shooting with only one flash then I don't bother with light meter and simply shoot and adjust as required.
I just stumbled upon your channel or whatever the parlance is you folks provide the most straightforward and correct information about digital photography. It's wonderful.
Tony - you have an amazing wealth of knowledge, you're down to Earth and a great communicator with incredible recall - you know i think photographers have to have more tech stuff on call in a moments notice than most other professionals. Was that one take and no prompter ?
Great video! It's amazing how many gear reviewers out there don't seem to understand even half of these things. One question though: Let's assume we have a FF body that has a higher resolution and an APS-C body with lower resolution which is often typical anyway. Let's say that the FF sensor has so much more resolution that if we take a 1,5x crop from the image, we have exactly the same amount of pixels that the APS-C -body has. If we took the same shot with the same F (or even APS-C) lens with both cameras and cropped the FF image 1,5x, wouldn't the final images have exactly the same sharpness?
Yes. The only cameras that fit your description are the Canon 5DS and 5DS-R, but we frequently use the 5DS-R instead of an APS-C body when we might need to crop heavily.
I've been taking pictures for almost 40 years and the learning process never stops. Thank you for clearing up things I thought I had right. And yes, my best picture ever was taken with a PS (the Olympus Infinity Stylus).
I'm 63 and have been an enthusiastic amateur photographer since 1971. Digital since 1998. Computer geek since 1983. Love reading reviews both before and after I buy something. I have a lot of quality gear (5DS R, 11-24, 100-400v2. TS-E 24v2, 24-105). How the heck have I managed to not know about you before today! You are great! (I'm of course a subscriber now :-) )
Hey- just wanted to say, as an amateur enthusiast, I have come to really enjoy your output- you seem to make the most sense to me, and you debunk a lot of the other output on RUclips- thanks x
Very good. From 1 to 20, all educated tested fact-supported statements. This channel in general is a completely different league. Unlike those chest-bashers and clowns know-it-all you regularly find on youtube.
This man is a gold mine for camera/photography/filming information. I found out several HUGE tips that show me how i can 'properly' predict certain scenarios or aspects when taking pictures. Even though i haven't seen much of these two on youtube. The little amount of content that i have seen is amazing. It is backed up, previewed and explained in high detail. Great info, great guides. Amazing!
Hi. I really like the professional touch you put into your videos and your other work. Let me just take one example. Look how you arrange the props - the old equipment on the table together with the computer screen is a lecture in composition. The backdrop is nicely done too, espeially when your head is offen fitted just in between the backdrops details. Good work. For free for all of us to enjoy. Then there is all this info you give us. I have been a commercial photographer using Sinar 4x5" and 8x10" and Hasselblad before turning to digital 4x5" and 24x36. And the info you give us seems be very accurate and valuable. I have not been through all your videos but here on #1 you talk about sweetspot and the missconception of where the lenses generally is preforming best. You are right that surprisingly enough most lenses are sharpest at only one stop down - if you talk about most general situations a photographers come in to, AND centre area of the picture. All lenses, without exception, gets better though outside the center area when stoping down, much better. BUT at the same time looses some sharpness in the center area. So it is a little give and take here. But for wildlife, portrait etc. the lenses at one stop down is behaving just as you want them to do: giving you their ulitmate sharpness in the middle and a nice soft fall of towards the edges. PS, I was very surpriced with your findings about Canons and Nikons 70x200. Amazing! DS,
Great info Tony. I only recently discovered your channel and I'm enjoying it. FYI, the audio got much better (for me) at 28:16 when you did the lens comparison. I have no tone settings on the hardware I'm using.
Great video Tony and Chelsea. Another crazy thing this idea of the "3D look" of the lens. Some people use this expression to describe a kind of "micro contrast"... when they should talk, in my opinion, about the lens design, lens elements.. color rendition.. etc.
This guy´s technical knowledge and knowledge in general about cameras and things around the topic of cameras is amazing. What does he NOT know about cameras?
+Henrik Nilsson he talks more like a scientist and not a photographer or artist. He reminds me of my math teacher back in high school...all technical talk, all one tone in his voice...put me to sleep all the time... just like this guy....uggghhhh
+Henrik Nilsson that would explain alot.... why he is so boring....and tells us stuff most of us really don't care to hear (why i normally don't watch his vid's or subscribe to him) I don't need to or want to know the technical speak of the censor or the refractory dispersion of.... i want to know how to HAVE FUN and TAKE FUN GOOD PICTURES... not spend my time dissecting numbers....
+Scott Jessop It's a light shining directly on the top of his head. It's easier to see when you full screen. I noticed it to, but quickly forgot it until reading your comment.
Quick thanks for all the videos. I'm enjoying the SDP online book as well... You guys are why I have really gotten into photography again after a long hiatus from the film days. I bought a Sony A7 ll and really enjoy learning it- and techniques to get better and better photographs... So thanks Tony and Chelsea- I find your teaching style to be awesome!!
I'm always impressed of how thorough and un-biased you are in all your videos. Plus it's refreshing to see such a obvious class act have internet success without any crazy, in your face attitude. Thanks Man!
+Paul Moadibe Add lossless compression to the mix please ;) Sony is using uncompressed RAW while Nikon and Canons highest quality RAWs are already (without loss) compressed AFAIK
Thank you for all the info and I especially liked #20. Every time someone comments "Wow, that's a nice shot", it's followed by "you must have a really good camera". Grrrr
Always clear and to the point!.... a lot of work and consideration in these videos with links to more related in depth content, which is always presented honestly and with a genuine desire to help, and not to mislead! ..... appreciate all the vlogs I’ve watched so far for the balanced concise technical perspective they give. It was always apparent that you did not have any ‘biases’ but interesting to hear this in this one, will look out the tutorials on composition and will certainly have to buy at least one of your book now!, thanks.
Thanks for this great vid. Makes my learning of equipment and technical stuff so much easier. Still sharp pics are to me my number one goal as a beginner, but the next step is to find something interesting to photograph.
tom Jenn So many people I know have bought dslrs because of my pictures. I always tell them not to if I get the chance because it makes most people's pictures worse rather than better. Most people assume it's the camera that produces the results.
Number 20 is sooooo true.... whenever someone looks at one of my images and says "wow, you must have a great camera!", I respond with.... "when you read a good book, do you think the author must have a great pen??".... this seems to help people get your last point. Cheers and good light, David
Excellent informative video, I'll have to watch this many times to understand some of it, as I'm new to the DSLR world and just learning to understand the details. Thank you for the very detailed explaination.
I’m glad to hear you call out focus peaking. I haven’t had much success AT ALL with focus peaking. I really miss the old film SLR microprism and split image sometimes. Even a magnified view on a mirrorless camera is not as convenient or quick.
Enjoyed the tutorial and hearing your opinions Tony. Some good stuff. However, I don't share your assessment "auto-focus all the way for me" when discussing lenses for digital cameras. Certainly focus-peaking is flawed when using manual focus glass, but focus magnification is a great tool to insure you're hitting the targeted focus area, whether using manual or auto-focus lenses. This is especially true for macro, product, and occasionally portrait photography. Yes, for sports, wildlife or other projects where focus tracking is needed, auto focus lenses are likely the best choice, but manual focus lenses still play a significant role in photography and I was a bit surprised with your sweeping statement dismissing them.
Yes, at some point there one should make a decision: does it make sense to try to mimic larger sensor on s smaller one or should one simply step into the larger sensor.
No. You don't multiply f#s. A 45mmf1.8 will _always_ have the same dof(depth of field) and every single camera. The fov (field of view) will change, but dof won't. Now the practical applications is that on m4/3 you will need a faster lens to get the same dof for a given fov. _But you cannot swap the terminology of focal length and field of view_. The 100mm1.8 used on a full frame will have a shallower dof than a 50mm1.8 on a m4/3 camera. But the _field of view_ will be the same. Likewise, if you use a 100mm1.8 on a m4/3, you will get the same dof as on full frame, but half the fov.
herranton1979 Not true, DoF is dependent on the magnification which is dependent on the sensor size. Also as one already multiplies the focal length, then it is no more 45 mm. Yes, the 100 mm f/1.8 has shallower DoF, That is why one multiplies the aperture. 100 mm f/3.6 has the same DoF. That is how one gets the EQUIVALENT focal length and aperture. Have you ever calculated DoFs even with an online calculator or are you just making things as you go? 50 mm f/1.8 has hyperfocal distance of 37.9 m on FF. On MFT it has hyperfocal distance of 75.8 m (i.e. double). That is because CoC on FF is 0,03 mm and on MFT 0,015 mm. You do not seem to get that it is the final image that counts, nothing else. What happens on the sensor is relevant only on how it affects the final image.
Ernest hemingway meets helmut newton: hemingway: Great picture you take !... What camera do you use ? newton: Great books you write !... What typewriter do you use ?
Hampus Lindman : Obviously it’s not the same thing since Mr. Jesper G O Møller used analogy here and it’s main function is to make a “comparison between one thing and another typically for the purpose of explanation or clarification”
Matthayi Naalaaman You’ve just convinced me to look at this from a different perspective . I guess some analogies seem to be quite convincing till one looks under the hood. Thanks for presenting valid point
@Matthayi Naalaaman Well, here is the thing. I started photography two years ago and I only used my phone to shoot everything. Last week, I've got a DSLR. Did I take great images with my phone? I sure did. But I still upgraded to a DSLR, not because it will take better photos, but because I will take better photos with it since I now have more control than I did with a phone. Therefore, I am the one taking the shot and then editing unlike your "processed to the moon" shots you take or I take on a 200$ phone. The quality is just a bonus camera's have. Have a great day buddy!
I've watched this video 3-4 times, and it is just great Tony! This is why I buy all your stuff at your site, bc you give away so much FREE info to the photography world. Thanks again!
Love the common sense approach, when a great artist paints a masterpiece the don't ask what brush and paints did you use, they must have been really expensive, I'll buy some and I too could be a great artist :)
Tony like the way that you explain Photograhy and equipment. You kae it simple for everyone to understand. I learnred a lot in this and a few other videos I looked at so far. Will be looking at your RUclips video on the Nikon D5600 which I just bought.
I love number 20, the best photography pictures start with, "look at this cool shot I was able to get when I was out and about the other day". Just keep shooting, and share the moments. There are only so many moments in life, we capture them and share them. Great video. Peace happiness and blessing to all that read this.
Петър Петров I have and he's right. The result from film and certainly from medium and large format is stunning. I love what you get from these formats but film by definition is not sharp due to the grain effect of the film. Pixels make sharp images. I think the issue with the statement is that it is assumed that sharp means better but it doesn't(always). For a start, sharp means there are distinct start and stop points between pixels and this doesn't lend itself to graduation as well as film.
I've never heard anyone say C.M.O.S. but that would actually be pretty funny to hear. Like parents speaking to each other in code by spelling words so their kids don't understand - yet. What was funny was a lady that owned a sport utility vehicle that she referred to as her Suv, rather than her S.U.V.
I really appreciate the way you are able to communicate with such clear understanding. I have a hard time grasping a concept when i hear instructions, versus hands on yet, you are able to reach that part of my brain that i thought was unreachable. thank you.
This video is really excellent. The information is well-stated and you don't go on too long about any one thing. It's like a nice little list of other things one can look into depending on your needs.
Good common sense information. Another common myth is that people who understand the technical aspects of photography are too focused on the technical aspects of photography. The reverse seems to be true, at least for me. The more I understand the process, the less I have to think about it and the more it becomes natural just to use that information to envision, compose and execute good photographs. It also allows one to distinguish between hype and help when reading or listening to gear reviews.The other myth is that being a good photographer has nothing to do with practice, WRONG. the greatest piano players in the world play scales and practice, practice, practice. Anybody doing anything at the very top level, whether it is music, golf, chess or photography, is practicing all the time. That's one of the huge advantages of digital photography over the old film cameras, it's virtually free to practice...a lot! That being said, it's also good to experiment and self critique. Practice, helps create muscle memory for what you are already doing but experimentation takes you into new territory and self critique helps you determine if that new territory is somewhere you want to be. Sorry for the soap-box, this was a good video and worth my time to view it.
+WD B _"... International Standards Organization (ISO) ..."_ If I might be needlessly pedantic for a moment, it's the International Organization for Standarization. "ISO" is not an acronym, though; it comes from the Greek ίσος.
Michael Sommers That's what is stayed now, but not what it was when the the change was made from ASA to ISO. Don't care what the web site says, this all offered long before those guys put that site up. I still have articles written about this in journals (maybe I can find them). It 100% an abbreviation for the organization. I was doing professional photo when this was done. I saw it, watched it and lived it. Tony is pretty good, but wrong about this, and the light meters. Can't make global statements like that and be accurate. Like most things, it depends on kind of photography. If you do forensic photography and other types of scientific work, you'll need that incident meter. Reflected readings work of off 18% gray. The scene/subject may not be reflecting that. I do remember DIN also. Thanks for the discussion!
Number 20 - wish more people on the SDP site had watched that bit. Great advice as always, Tony. Would maybe add on the Reciprocal Rule "Only goes for camera shake. If the subject moves at all, it will blur unless you go even faster with the shutter." Which makes your slow bird shots here all the more incredible.
I was eager to view this video and, in particular, wanted to see your take on the subject of Depth of Field. I was surprised that you didn't seem to mention the reality that focal length does NOT have a bearing on depth of field. The truth is that at a given f-stop depth of field is governed by image size and NOT focal length. As an example, if you have a 50mm lens on one camera and a 100mm lens on another camera (same size sensors in both cameras) and they are both set to the same aperture with the longer lens twice the distance of the wider focal length camera so that the image size on both sensors is identical then the depth of field will be IDENTICAL.... Just sayin'
Light meter: Have to disagree. The recent sekonics are calibrated to your camera. So they should have an educated guess, what your camera is capable of under certain fstops and under a certain iso. It has reflected and incident metering. Both are not implemented in a camera at the same time, cameras have only reflected metering, with all the downsides of it. Depends on your use and what you want to do with it. The metering modes (spot, eval and all over the place) can give you comparable results, if you make your brain work and understand what the camera does, how many light is in the frame and what your camera will do to the picture to make this into middle grey. To say that a light meter is outdated is plain wrong. We could agree, that this thing is not for you, but outdated: no. That said, I have one, although I seldom use it, as live view and a histogram can give me a good starting point too. But there are situations when it comes in handy.
1.) Incident metering 2.) Averaging several measurements that you pic by yourself 3.) Measuring a scene with delta EVs. Giving you an estimation if your camera can capture the scene with one photo 4.) Ratios of flashes (in taking measurements for each flash with the dome in)
No light meter, Sekonic or otherwise, is calibrated to any particular camera. The only thing a light meter does is measure light. Otherwise, if you owned multiple cameras, then you'd also need to own multiple light meters. That statement makes no sense whatsoever.
You obviously don't have a Sekonic lightmeter and you never used the DTS software. You can save up to several camera profiles in the meter and switch the profiles in the lightmeter. No need to buy multiple meters. Just google it and then you may understand the concept. www.sekonic.com/united-states/support/downloads/dtssoftwareformacandwindows.aspx
You are apparently ignorant of the Sekonic L 758 DR light meter. Using Sekonic's DTS software and a calibrated target you can calibrate not only each camera you own but each at a certain ISO and each with a different lens. You are very poorly informed. Also, nothing comes close to what a Sekonic L-758 DR light meter can do when you are using multiple strobes and natural light and strobes. This meter has a built-in Pocket Wizard and will fire you flash for you. You shouldn't talk about things that you don't know about. I doubt that you are doing any serious flash photography. If you were, you'd buy one to do your lighting ratios and not appear to be an amateur chimping away and wasting everyone's time. There are several excellent Sekonic L758 DR videos on youtube and there is nothing in a camera's meter that can even get close to doing what this modern meter does.
Great video. You are by far the best instructor on You Tube. You have been my go to guy on everything photography for the past year and I've learned a ton as an amateur. Thank you for the lessons.
Thanks a lot for this video! I found the tips and clarifications very useful, but most important, the way of talking and explaning of both Tony and Chelsea is very pleasant. I love rewatching this and the D850 1h review just for fun.
Plenty of controversy in this video. Love it! I am going to be controversial myself here. I can't just let it go. At the level of analysis you are providing here (and I very much appreciate it), it makes sense for your video to demonstrate your level of ability in the field. That would mean your forehead, nose and cheek are not over exposed.
What if you've been paid, to say not to trust others, because they may have been secretly paid, so that we trust you more, even though you are secretly paid?
+jvgatti What if you have been paid to write a comment about Tony being paid to say not to trust others because they may have been secretly paid, so that we trust Tony more, even though he is secretly paid?
dennytenny Give him a break, payed vs paid is quite a common mistake. it's the fault of inconsistency in English language. In fact "Payed" is actually more logical Play --> played, not plaid Grey --> greyed, not graid Pay --> paid, why?
Thank you so much Tony! You solved a question I had for a while. I watched your video and it explained focus breathing! I really enjoy watching your calm, well executed videos. My wife owns the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55 - 300 millimeter F 1:4.5 - 5.6 G ED lens. I bought her the 18 - 300 millimeter F 1:3.5 - 6.3 DC Sigma lens. I didn't believe her when she first said that zoomed out to 300mm the Nikon has greater magnification on her Nikon D5500 camera. I ran a test and found out that it was true! I couldn't figure out why this occurred. I thought both zoomed to 300mm the magnification would be exactly the same. Now I understand! Focus breathing! Thanks very much for your help!
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Hi Tony, love your vids. If I buy the book 'Stunning Digital Photography' can I view it on my Mac as I don't have a Kindle?
Tony & Chelsea Northrup canon has a bigger crop factor so maybe that is a reason for the increased zoom function
I believe that the first one about then maximum sharpness is mostly an anachronism. The one about Focus breading: it actuality has two meanings that are technically related , but not in the practice they are not related (one is use in video, the one Tony mentioned mostly in photography). The video is super valuable and correct.
I both enjoyed the informative information you presented but being a newbie to mirrorless cameras I am at a loss and am a bit confused by so much information. I do hope that over time that I will be better at understanding and applying the complexity of this craft. For me it has been over 30 years since I applied and used an old film 35mm camera. To give a simple analogy, it reminded me of the comparison of the artistic trained and the untrained but naturally gifted. As you brought out in your narrative, it’s not the equipment but in the individual who makes the difference of being good to becoming better. Again, thank you for presentation, I look forward to enjoying and being further informed as I have seen in several of your videos.
I always appreciate how respectful Tony is. He'll make a point (e.g., re: filters), and then say, "But if you're happy with your results, keep doing what you do." He (and Chelsea) are extraordinary camera nerds and great teachers, but underlying everything they say is the idea that they just want people to enjoy their photography. They are precise and objective, and even dogmatic when the have to be, yet always gracious. It's the kind of rare combination that makes the 900k of us that follow them so happy.
True. It's also what distinguishes a true professional from a self-proclaimed one - the attitude towards those who don't possess the knowledge (yet) and/or are inexperienced and seek help.
alot of people talk shit about tony northup, but on RUclips he is definitely one of the few people that actually backs up his opinion with facts, really informative, keep up the awesome work man
Andro'5 World i think they talk shit because he's a robot. He doesn't breath and the way he pauses during speaking is weird. Like a robot.
They're jelly of his life.
A robot maybe, but plenty of useful and helpful information, their videos have given me plenty of informaton to work with, think about and use....
Plus some people prefer Robots, like me....
The point of learning the facts is to let you go out and get the results more reliably.
Tony is the man!
Tony is one of the great photography educators of our time because of his honesty, technical knowledge and passion to help others from being led up the garden path. He saves his listeners from money wasting, time wasting and the frustration that these things bring. Tony's candidness will not be popular with everyone but is gold-dust for those who truly want to cut through the mist and learn with an open-mind.
I came across Tony, whilst checking out technology for a new camera that I wanted. He was the only photographer that allowed me to understand Focal Length & Crop Factors in Photography. He knows what he’s talking about & I respect his knowledge about the immense scientific stuff.
I just want to say that Tony's really won me over with the videos he's been doing lately. A lot of people in the photography community like to bash Tony and say that he's very polarizing, or that he doesn't always know what he's talking about, or that he's biased, or that he's not that good of a photographer. But IMO the videos he's been making speak for themselves. Not only has he become quite knowledgeable, more meticulous, more objective, he's also very good at explaining things in a way that's easy to digest and keep the audience interested. He's also personable and not awkward or abrasive like some popular camera/photography personalities sometimes can be. Keep it up Tony. You've earned a new fan.
A person who can be very abrasive is fro knows photos and his approach can and has been off putting. I've compared the level of detail in content both provides and a lot of what Tony is stating are things I've learned the hard way, but 1st hand. I don't retouch my images as I like the natural feel. The amount of art that gets placed in my images are all in-camera: the choice between flat, renaissance, 3/4 lighting or practicals; fog machine, set design & location, etc. Fro's images seems a bit over processed so I digressed. I don't watch them for their lessons, but point of view. I draw up my own lessons from 1st hand experiences as I have my own style, but I love to see their premise. Kai who used to be part of DRTV was a bit more entertaining than technical, but a lot of the content seemed a bit subjective or not as detailed.
Agreed the reason to go back to canon from Nikon seemed apt
On number 20, one of my friends had a great response to that. People would see his photos and say, "You must have a great camera" His response was, "Yes, I taught it everything it knows."
my favorite part of this video too. ( #20 ).
this is amazing, I am stealing it.
What a wonderful pie, you must have a great oven
I'm stealing your friend's line. I get really annoyed that when I show people my underwater photography, many of them first say that I must have great gear. (I don't, by the way.)
While the skill of the photographer is far more important, the specs of the lens and camera definitely make a real difference and that is why many pros use the best lenses and cameras available. The lens matters more than the body for sure though.
I am an enthusiast, not a professional and I find your videos informative, entertaining and most importantly fun. What I find most enjoyable about you and Chelsea's efforts is that you are professionals but you still nurture and support those of us who are hobbyists. I may never make one thin dime as a professional photographer but folks like you, unencumbered by ego and blessed with a love of this art, inspire many like me to do more than just "take pictures." Many thanks.
This video should be compulsory viewing for all photographers! Thanks T&C for another excellent episode.
Tony, you are as of this moment, without a doubt, my very favorite Photography nerd. That is a compliment. I enjoy you and Chelsea's fine work. Thanks.
Guys I found the best website that will help you to learn trick photography that is PhotographyTricks5.blogspot.com
Hope this will help…... ...
No
flickwtchr
Don't hijack threads, it just makes you the lowest form of scumbag.
flickwtchr mhas ok
Your videos are the most informative, concise and clear. Plus, you guys are cute together and entertaining to watch. I ended up purchasing your book and found it very useful.
Tony, I have followed you and Chelsea for a few years now, and this is my first review. I love your description of the products that you review as well as "how to" with different subjects. Thanks
Stunning video! I really love the incredibly detailed and interesting content you put out on such a regular basis. Fantastic work :)
I can't believe how much knowledge is shared in your videos. I love the format and your presentation. Many thanks!!!
Tony!!! great video mate! its really good you addressed the last point, which is what I hear so much. I am a young photographer only 2-3 years doing it, and I think Ive successfully gained a lot of clients because I capture what is most important.... THE MOMENT!!!!
Found the channel tonight and watched a half dozen videos. Great stuff and I love to see photo channel with someone who is actually very knowledgeable and provides consistently accurate information.
The emphasis on skills over gear is so important and something rarely found on RUclips too.
I dont think you guys have any idea how good you really are. Not only at your work, but also making a young man like me, understand every single thing you tell. And I'm not even American. I live in Denmark, Europe. And last week I desited to finally buy my first real DSLR. My very own, Canon 80D. The shop let me in on 2 different lenses, for different situations and gave a small course to start my photography journey.
Being a rookie, I desited to go online and search for online tips and tricks. And I found your channel by random. I am so happy I did, thank you so much for the time and effort you guys put in your videoes. It makes it all so simple to understand and you are giving us/me so much with your knowledge and experience.
Thank you.
Best Regards Thomas
Just discovered your videos, for a 30 year working pro they are still interesting and informative, not because I thought I already knew it all ( I do) but because of the eloquent way you explain everything.
Definitely the best photo channel on youtube by a mile.
+394pjo Yes, he is a good communicator and teacher. This is because he has the big picture. He understand verses knows.
People that think they know everything know nothing. One should always strive to know as little as possible in order to open themselves up to learning and therefore knowing as much as possible.
UCF
Doesnt tony leave his d780 on auto?
Tony I just want to say a big THANK YOU! I've learned so much from your videos! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
The sample you stated for Focus Breathing between Canon and Nikon 70-200 Zoom is not Focus Breathing, its called Bellow Effect ( check large format ref ). Focus breathing is for same lens ( same focal length or fix focal ) that focus from far to near or near to far , that the actual framing shrike and grow ... Bellow Effect is the effect of the image become dimmer, and image circle become larger and effective focal length reduced when a lens is placed with an extension from its ( infinity ) setting , this is well known in Macro lens user
+Mech Franka T. Lieu I was talking about focus breathing, not the bellow effect.
Hi Tony,
I am referring to that Nikon 70-200 sample specifically, when it zoom out to 200 and still only give coverage like a 135, that's when its effective focal range is reduced by nature of its optics being moved ( or in this case zoomed ) to a position further from the media and thus projecting a larger image circle, thus giving wider coverage and reduse effective focal length this is technically Bellow Effect. Lens Breathing is technically the effect for a lens ( fix focal or focal length remain the same ) projecting an image on the media that Grows and Shrikes when the focus is pulled. I understand your point but just like to point out that those two are not the same. In these days of most using Zoom that can be confusing.
I see, it was just not conveyed well on the video, I thought Tony mean the lens frame the scene with a coverage aka 135 the same all the way .. Now that's serious lens breathing indeed
BTW, how close is portrait for that would be like, typically when a lens focus down to 10X focal length ( 2m for this lens at 200mm ), its really starting to see Bellow Effect real good and get worse real quick. So if the shoot is anything similar or shorter in subjkect distance it may very well be a combination of both Bellow Effect and Focus Breathing which is rather common in Macro shoot but I've seldom seen it in other subject except when I am doing my Large Format.
As an amateur/student photographer wanting to make my way into the professional world, I love watching these informative vids. Nice to be able to sort the bs from important need to know info. Thanks again Tony!
Really, really good advice. Especially liked the comments near the end where you reinforce the point that whilst the gear helps, it's the photographer's eye and capturing the moment that counts
Tony, I have a suggestion if you don't mind. Would you please put up the links you mention, in the description. It makes things a tiny bit easier and you may get more people going to the links you discuss.
#20 Brought back some things I learned years ago during the film is king days. I was at a camera show, lots of people walking around with expensive cameras, like Haselblads. I attended a presentation by a professional photo finishing company. The guy presenting said "We got a professional photographer to go out and take pictures with this", he held up a Kodak Instamatic 110 point and shoot. They then showed several gorgeous pictures that were several feet high and even more feet long.
1. Some one who knows what they are doing can produce good stuff up to the limit of their equipment. Including the people who print the big stuff.
2. Presenters will only show you something that helps them sell stuff.
3. The main limiting factor for most photographs is the skill of the person behind the camera.
4. I need to keep practicing and learning.
I remember decades ago that Moose Peterson was doing massive blow ups of low MP images. He just had phenomenal technique in order to make it work.
Great post, and too true
Fantastic video! One of the most meaningful things I have watched recently! Greetings from Japan!
@38:15 Actually on many cameras even focusing a magnified live view image unfortunately does not give exact focus either because the real time scanning of the sensor is done at a reduced resolution due to bandwidth limitations of the electronics.
In such cameras (most cameras until recently) you will find that if you set live view to maximum magnification, shoot the picture and then enlarge the image on your PC you will find that you get much more detail in the enlarged image than you could see on the magnified live view image.
The reason for this is the same one that has made it take so long for DSLRs to shoot 4K video (and also to some extent why some DSLRs will show moire on video despite having a moire filter and not showing moire in stills). For a 60Hz 4K video the camera needs to read out sixty 8 Megapixel photos every second from the sensor. For live view you can do with lower frame rate but even at 4K resolution you are still at only one quarter of the, say, 32 megapixel resolution your camera shoots stills. You can see how a system that struggles to read sixty 8 Megapixel images every second is not going to be able to read thirty 32 megapixel images every second.
There are of course ways around this since when you are live viewing without magnification you don't need the full resolution whereas when you magnify the live view you don't need to readout the full image. In theory one could just read the little rectangle of pixels that will be displayed 1:1 on the LCD at full resolution which would keep down the amount of data that had to be read from the sensor. However this is where practical limitations come in due to the limited flexibility in how data is read off the sensor which prevent a contiguous patch of pixels, even a small one, to be read repeatedly at a high rate, so you instead have to read alternate pixels, alternate lines or something of the sort. It is something that can quite easily be overcome but only if the sensor is designed with this specific requirement in mind.
I clicked on this not expecting much. I then saw the length of the video and immediately started skipping through it... but then found myself heading back to the beginning, watching all 44 minutes of this video. Honestly, there was so much valuable information in this video it's insane. Thanks for this! :)
You've confirmed a lot of suspicions I already had Tony, well done. Thank you!
Once again, this video was super helpful, Tony. Thank you!
You're welcome!
#20 is very important, I love you mentioned it.
+Krzysztof Blach This can't be emphasized enough. It's a universal idea across all artistic fields. After all, some of the best photos in history were taken with cameras far less advanced than what we have today, but the Photographers knew what they were doing.
+Daniel Jones pp
Thank you for being such a good and clear teacher of these things. I feel that thanks to going through many of these old vids I've been able to catch up on so many aspects as a relative beginner. I can tell I'm gradually getting better and not wasting (too much) on unnecessary gear. Eternally grateful.
14:25 If recording to a Atomos, you can pan inside that footage in post. We tend to neglect video from DSL-R cameras, but I see a lot of people using them for that.
DUDE, I can't say enough how useful I found this video. Thank you.
thanks tony,,, fantastic comments like always,,,specially the "trusted review" section,,,exactly true
one little thing though,,,you said crop factor doesn't effect camera settings but earlier you said it effects needed shutter speed for handholdibility
Both those are true, yes. Crop factor doesn't impact exposure. It does impact the reciprocal rule.
It is not and never was a rule. It was a suggestion of what would work most of the time for the average person. I knew somebody who would get pin sharp images with a 50mm at 1/2sec. I could get decent at 1/100. Today I would need 1/2000th.
But you are correct that it does impact the reciprocal concept, in that if your 50mm lens is acting like a 75mm lens then for most people your minimum handheld shutter speed should be 1/100sec. Your bringing in VR or IR etc confuses matters. I could add, bracing against a wall , using a tripod etc. VR is a mechanical means to control image movement. Which is why it is stated as giving x-amount of added f-stop benefits. Now testing if what they claim is anywhere near true would be fun.
#19 If you are shooting with ambient light yes, learn to meter. However, for multiple light flash photography, I do still them useful. You can quickly nail your lighting ratios and check your flash contribution vs ambient contribution. If I'm shooting with only one flash then I don't bother with light meter and simply shoot and adjust as required.
+Omesh Singh This!^^^^^^^^^^^^
Agree. Light meters are very useful with flash photography. Don't bother with them for available light or single flash.
In my eyes: This is the best photography channel on YT. This goes into technical things enouth and explains everything. Please continue!
I just stumbled upon your channel or whatever the parlance is you folks provide the most straightforward and correct information about digital photography. It's wonderful.
Tony - you have an amazing wealth of knowledge, you're down to Earth and a great communicator with incredible recall - you know i think photographers have to have more tech stuff on call in a moments notice than most other professionals.
Was that one take and no prompter ?
Great video! It's amazing how many gear reviewers out there don't seem to understand even half of these things. One question though: Let's assume we have a FF body that has a higher resolution and an APS-C body with lower resolution which is often typical anyway. Let's say that the FF sensor has so much more resolution that if we take a 1,5x crop from the image, we have exactly the same amount of pixels that the APS-C -body has. If we took the same shot with the same F (or even APS-C) lens with both cameras and cropped the FF image 1,5x, wouldn't the final images have exactly the same sharpness?
Yes. The only cameras that fit your description are the Canon 5DS and 5DS-R, but we frequently use the 5DS-R instead of an APS-C body when we might need to crop heavily.
Adventuregrapher g
I've been taking pictures for almost 40 years and the learning process never stops. Thank you for clearing up things I thought I had right. And yes, my best picture ever was taken with a PS (the Olympus Infinity Stylus).
I'm 63 and have been an enthusiastic amateur photographer since 1971. Digital since 1998. Computer geek since 1983. Love reading reviews both before and after I buy something. I have a lot of quality gear (5DS R, 11-24, 100-400v2. TS-E 24v2, 24-105). How the heck have I managed to not know about you before today! You are great! (I'm of course a subscriber now :-) )
Hey- just wanted to say, as an amateur enthusiast, I have come to really enjoy your output- you seem to make the most sense to me, and you debunk a lot of the other output on RUclips- thanks x
Love Your Nurdy Techy explanations Tony Keep Up The Good Work
Very impress Tony thank you
Very good. From 1 to 20, all educated tested fact-supported statements. This channel in general is a completely different league. Unlike those chest-bashers and clowns know-it-all you regularly find on youtube.
What was that sound at 42:24? It sounded painful.
+Denology Sounds like a yawn
+Denology
waaah... that's the sound of exiting a skype session ? hahahahahahah !!!!
+Denology lol the chick yawned got bored by this long video
+Denology Clearly that was Chelsea yawning from boredom.
+Denology lol windows
This man is a gold mine for camera/photography/filming information. I found out several HUGE tips that show me how i can 'properly' predict certain scenarios or aspects when taking pictures. Even though i haven't seen much of these two on youtube. The little amount of content that i have seen is amazing. It is backed up, previewed and explained in high detail. Great info, great guides. Amazing!
Hi. I really like the professional touch you put into your videos and your other work. Let me just take one example. Look how you arrange the props - the old equipment on the table together with the computer screen is a lecture in composition. The backdrop is nicely done too, espeially when your head is offen fitted just in between the backdrops details. Good work. For free for all of us to enjoy. Then there is all this info you give us. I have been a commercial photographer using Sinar 4x5" and 8x10" and Hasselblad before turning to digital 4x5" and 24x36. And the info you give us seems be very accurate and valuable. I have not been through all your videos but here on #1 you talk about sweetspot and the missconception of where the lenses generally is preforming best. You are right that surprisingly enough most lenses are sharpest at only one stop down - if you talk about most general situations a photographers come in to, AND centre area of the picture. All lenses, without exception, gets better though outside the center area when stoping down, much better. BUT at the same time looses some sharpness in the center area. So it is a little give and take here. But for wildlife, portrait etc. the lenses at one stop down is behaving just as you want them to do: giving you their ulitmate sharpness in the middle and a nice soft fall of towards the edges.
PS, I was very surpriced with your findings about Canons and Nikons 70x200. Amazing! DS,
Tony, if you could do a video of the Sony a6300 vs the Samsung nx1 that would be amazing. Both for photo and video.
+skatertwig26 OK.
Skater you own the NX1 right?
Sully Cortez No, I own the Sony a7 and the Panasonic g7. I want to sell both and get the a6300 with a focal reducer.
Tony Northrup You are great!!!
+skatertwig26 Yeah, I would be interested in more VS type of videos in this channel also. Side-by-side comparisons, etc..
Fantastic and very informative. This upload made me subscribe to you. Keep up the good work!
So weird coming to a video like this after seeing that Jared bloke scream about how good he is for 1.5 hours
LMAO
@@eryckafountain7228 Jared is a bit of a loudmouth, but he has some good info.
Great info Tony. I only recently discovered your channel and I'm enjoying it. FYI, the audio got much better (for me) at 28:16 when you did the lens comparison. I have no tone settings on the hardware I'm using.
Great video Tony and Chelsea. Another crazy thing this idea of the "3D look" of the lens. Some people use this expression to describe a kind of "micro contrast"... when they should talk, in my opinion, about the lens design, lens elements.. color rendition.. etc.
This guy´s technical knowledge and knowledge in general about cameras and things around the topic of cameras is amazing. What does he NOT know about cameras?
+Henrik Nilsson nothin, just ask him.....
+Henrik Nilsson he talks more like a scientist and not a photographer or artist. He reminds me of my math teacher back in high school...all technical talk, all one tone in his voice...put me to sleep all the time... just like this guy....uggghhhh
Dale Wooten I believe he has a technical background as a programmer
+Henrik Nilsson that would explain alot.... why he is so boring....and tells us stuff most of us really don't care to hear (why i normally don't watch his vid's or subscribe to him) I don't need to or want to know the technical speak of the censor or the refractory dispersion of.... i want to know how to HAVE FUN and TAKE FUN GOOD PICTURES... not spend my time dissecting numbers....
+Dale Wooten What do you want him to say to you?
Man I really enjoyed this episode of your channel
Indeed Tony
Very informative. I like the way the green screen/low-res video makes your hair look futuristic. I can't stop looking at it. :)
+Scott Jessop It's not a green screen.
What is doing that then? :D Surely magic@!:D
+Scott Jessop It's a light shining directly on the top of his head. It's easier to see when you full screen. I noticed it to, but quickly forgot it until reading your comment.
+Scott Jessop It's just WAY too much gel...
+Scott Jessop it is antialiassing that would have happened even though there iss no greenscreen.
Quick thanks for all the videos. I'm enjoying the SDP online book as well... You guys are why I have really gotten into photography again after a long hiatus from the film days. I bought a Sony A7 ll and really enjoy learning it- and techniques to get better and better photographs... So thanks Tony and Chelsea- I find your teaching style to be awesome!!
I'm always impressed of how thorough and un-biased you are in all your videos. Plus it's refreshing to see such a obvious class act have internet success without any crazy, in your face attitude. Thanks Man!
Hey Tony. Great vids, just subscribed. Keep up the great work!!
Please do a video on uncompressed RAW to compressed on full frame. The benefits and cons. Thanks.
+Brett Harris
benefit : a compressed RAW file.
cons : a compressed RAW file.
+Paul Moadibe Add lossless compression to the mix please ;) Sony is using uncompressed RAW while Nikon and Canons highest quality RAWs are already (without loss) compressed AFAIK
Thank you for all the info and I especially liked #20. Every time someone comments "Wow, that's a nice shot", it's followed by "you must have a really good camera". Grrrr
Always clear and to the point!.... a lot of work and consideration in these videos with links to more related in depth content, which is always presented honestly and with a genuine desire to help, and not to mislead! ..... appreciate all the vlogs I’ve watched so far for the balanced concise technical perspective they give. It was always apparent that you did not have any ‘biases’ but interesting to hear this in this one, will look out the tutorials on composition and will certainly have to buy at least one of your book now!, thanks.
Thanks for this great vid. Makes my learning of equipment and technical stuff so much easier. Still sharp pics are to me my number one goal as a beginner, but the next step is to find something interesting to photograph.
...you should be able to get college credit for watching Tony & Chelsea videos, so informative..! Thank you! :)
You should do photography myth busters
I think you finally become a photographer when you get the compliment, "Wow, you must have a really great camera!" Lol
tom Jenn So many people I know have bought dslrs because of my pictures. I always tell them not to if I get the chance because it makes most people's pictures worse rather than better. Most people assume it's the camera that produces the results.
I never thought of it that way, but yes, it makes sense.
Number 20 is sooooo true.... whenever someone looks at one of my images and says "wow, you must have a great camera!", I respond with.... "when you read a good book, do you think the author must have a great pen??".... this seems to help people get your last point. Cheers and good light, David
Excellent informative video, I'll have to watch this many times to understand some of it, as I'm new to the DSLR world and just learning to understand the details. Thank you for the very detailed explaination.
Noticed some aliasing artifacts on tony's hair.
Stephen Gibb I think he has the start of a halo growing.
.
yah
Tony's hair, is an artifact
Because the background is real and tony is a living, green..
That's a great cake! What brand of oven did you use! Ha!
U nikki
Mb nunu nunu nunu guy 8th uh uh mi ju
On a similar point to ISO pronunciation, go to Japan and see how the good people at Nikon pronounce the name of their company.
Wow, amazing painting! What make of brush did you use? These new synthetic brushes must make painting so much easier.
@Bike Cycle a skilled chef hones his art so he can use a wood oven and bake the great cake, even without the ease and advances of the latest gadgets.
Love the videos; this one as well as your others. Did I hear a yawn at 42:20? :)
I was searching the comments section to check wether anyone else noticed that. 🤣
I’m glad to hear you call out focus peaking. I haven’t had much success AT ALL with focus peaking. I really miss the old film SLR microprism and split image sometimes. Even a magnified view on a mirrorless camera is not as convenient or quick.
Enjoyed the tutorial and hearing your opinions Tony. Some good stuff. However, I don't share your assessment "auto-focus all the way for me" when discussing lenses for digital cameras. Certainly focus-peaking is flawed when using manual focus glass, but focus magnification is a great tool to insure you're hitting the targeted focus area, whether using manual or auto-focus lenses. This is especially true for macro, product, and occasionally portrait photography. Yes, for sports, wildlife or other projects where focus tracking is needed, auto focus lenses are likely the best choice, but manual focus lenses still play a significant role in photography and I was a bit surprised with your sweeping statement dismissing them.
so on micro 4/3 a f2.8 lens is a full frame equivalent of a f5.6 lens? so i'd need a f1.4 lens (which only a handful exist) to get a f2.8 equivalent?
Yes, at some point there one should make a decision: does it make sense to try to mimic larger sensor on s smaller one or should one simply step into the larger sensor.
No. You don't multiply f#s. A 45mmf1.8 will _always_ have the same dof(depth of field) and every single camera. The fov (field of view) will change, but dof won't.
Now the practical applications is that on m4/3 you will need a faster lens to get the same dof for a given fov. _But you cannot swap the terminology of focal length and field of view_. The 100mm1.8 used on a full frame will have a shallower dof than a 50mm1.8 on a m4/3 camera. But the _field of view_ will be the same. Likewise, if you use a 100mm1.8 on a m4/3, you will get the same dof as on full frame, but half the fov.
herranton1979 Not true, DoF is dependent on the magnification which is dependent on the sensor size. Also as one already multiplies the focal length, then it is no more 45 mm.
Yes, the 100 mm f/1.8 has shallower DoF, That is why one multiplies the aperture. 100 mm f/3.6 has the same DoF. That is how one gets the EQUIVALENT focal length and aperture.
Have you ever calculated DoFs even with an online calculator or are you just making things as you go?
50 mm f/1.8 has hyperfocal distance of 37.9 m on FF. On MFT it has hyperfocal distance of 75.8 m (i.e. double). That is because CoC on FF is 0,03 mm and on MFT 0,015 mm.
You do not seem to get that it is the final image that counts, nothing else. What happens on the sensor is relevant only on how it affects the final image.
***** Let's please contain the discussion to one thread. I wont debate you in multiple places at once.
I am more confused now than ever
Tony is the most well educated photography teacher i had ever seen on RUclips. RIP Kai W & Peter McCanon xD
Ernest hemingway meets helmut newton:
hemingway: Great picture you take !... What camera do you use ?
newton: Great books you write !... What typewriter do you use ?
It's not the same thing.
Hampus Lindman :
Obviously it’s not the same thing since Mr. Jesper
G O Møller used analogy here and it’s main function is to make a “comparison between one thing and another typically for the purpose of explanation or clarification”
Matthayi Naalaaman You’ve just convinced me to look at this from a different perspective .
I guess some analogies seem to be quite convincing till one looks under the hood.
Thanks for presenting valid point
@Matthayi Naalaaman Well, here is the thing. I started photography two years ago and I only used my phone to shoot everything. Last week, I've got a DSLR. Did I take great images with my phone? I sure did. But I still upgraded to a DSLR, not because it will take better photos, but because I will take better photos with it since I now have more control than I did with a phone. Therefore, I am the one taking the shot and then editing unlike your "processed to the moon" shots you take or I take on a 200$ phone. The quality is just a bonus camera's have. Have a great day buddy!
I've watched this video 3-4 times, and it is just great Tony! This is why I buy all your stuff at your site, bc you give away so much FREE info to the photography world. Thanks again!
So much useful information in one video. I come back and play this one from time to time.
this is a highly educational video.... every budding photographer must watch thus video.... and other videos made by Tony Northup
Love the common sense approach, when a great artist paints a masterpiece the don't ask what brush and paints did you use, they must have been really expensive, I'll buy some and I too could be a great artist :)
Love this view
So how many great artists do you know? I'd be sure to ask exactly those questions! HOW he paints is not probably going to be describable.
This video was published in Feb 2016. Nikon just recently released a new 70-200 2.8 with the focus breathing problem fixed.
Yep, and we've already reviewed it.
Tony like the way that you explain Photograhy and equipment. You kae it simple for everyone to understand. I learnred a lot in this and a few other videos I looked at so far. Will be looking at your RUclips video on the Nikon D5600 which I just bought.
I love number 20, the best photography pictures start with, "look at this cool shot I was able to get when I was out and about the other day". Just keep shooting, and share the moments. There are only so many moments in life, we capture them and share them. Great video. Peace happiness and blessing to all that read this.
Film is an unsharp format? Have you shot medium format with a decent lens?
He probably meant 35mm format. And by the way I really doubt a medium format film could beat the image coming out of a H6D.
Петър Петров I have and he's right. The result from film and certainly from medium and large format is stunning. I love what you get from these formats but film by definition is not sharp due to the grain effect of the film. Pixels make sharp images.
I think the issue with the statement is that it is assumed that sharp means better but it doesn't(always). For a start, sharp means there are distinct start and stop points between pixels and this doesn't lend itself to graduation as well as film.
Shang-Hsien Yang Large format certainly could.
@@shang-hsienyang1284 6x8 and and 6x9 medium format DOES. As well everything after that in film format: 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10.
LOL Pissed off 173 reviewers with - "Sometimes when you think you're watching a review, you're actually watching a paid ad." 26:01
Tony's life won't be complete until everyone pronounces "ISO" correctly
+Chris` Next up he needs to tackle raw :D
That is a common symptom that plagues engineers. As a circuit engineer myself it irritates me if someone read CMOS as C M O S rather than c-mos.
+Aaron Yang I know it, same problems working in IT
I've never heard anyone say C.M.O.S. but that would actually be pretty funny to hear. Like parents speaking to each other in code by spelling words so their kids don't understand - yet.
What was funny was a lady that owned a sport utility vehicle that she referred to as her Suv, rather than her S.U.V.
Chris`
I.S.O. technically; as it's an abbreviation and not an actual word. Slang makes people lazy, myself included!
I really appreciate the way you are able to communicate with such clear understanding. I have a hard time grasping a concept when i hear instructions, versus hands on yet, you are able to reach that part of my brain that i thought was unreachable. thank you.
This video is really excellent. The information is well-stated and you don't go on too long about any one thing. It's like a nice little list of other things one can look into depending on your needs.
Thanks!
Good common sense information. Another common myth is that people who understand the technical aspects of photography are too focused on the technical aspects of photography. The reverse seems to be true, at least for me. The more I understand the process, the less I have to think about it and the more it becomes natural just to use that information to envision, compose and execute good photographs. It also allows one to distinguish between hype and help when reading or listening to gear reviews.The other myth is that being a good photographer has nothing to do with practice, WRONG. the greatest piano players in the world play scales and practice, practice, practice. Anybody doing anything at the very top level, whether it is music, golf, chess or photography, is practicing all the time. That's one of the huge advantages of digital photography over the old film cameras, it's virtually free to practice...a lot! That being said, it's also good to experiment and self critique. Practice, helps create muscle memory for what you are already doing but experimentation takes you into new territory and self critique helps you determine if that new territory is somewhere you want to be. Sorry for the soap-box, this was a good video and worth my time to view it.
In my youth, ISO used to be called ASA!
still is
It is actually film speed. Currently rated by International Standards Organization (ISO) and formerly rated by American Standards Association (ASA).
+WD B _"... International Standards Organization (ISO) ..."_
If I might be needlessly pedantic for a moment, it's the International Organization for Standarization. "ISO" is not an acronym, though; it comes from the Greek ίσος.
Don't forget DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung), which was a different system, but was commonly seen. ISO 100 was 21° DIN, for example.
Michael Sommers That's what is stayed now, but not what it was when the the change was made from ASA to ISO. Don't care what the web site says, this all offered long before those guys put that site up. I still have articles written about this in journals (maybe I can find them). It 100% an abbreviation for the organization. I was doing professional photo when this was done. I saw it, watched it and lived it. Tony is pretty good, but wrong about this, and the light meters. Can't make global statements like that and be accurate. Like most things, it depends on kind of photography. If you do forensic photography and other types of scientific work, you'll need that incident meter. Reflected readings work of off 18% gray. The scene/subject may not be reflecting that. I do remember DIN also. Thanks for the discussion!
Dammit Tony y u so correct and smart and physics all the time!?!?
This video is one of the best photography information resources out there. Very comprehensive and to-the-point. Thanks!
Number 20 - wish more people on the SDP site had watched that bit.
Great advice as always, Tony.
Would maybe add on the Reciprocal Rule "Only goes for camera shake. If the subject moves at all, it will blur unless you go even faster with the shutter."
Which makes your slow bird shots here all the more incredible.
"To infinity - and maybe a little bit beyond" - Tony
I was eager to view this video and, in particular, wanted to see your take on the subject of Depth of Field. I was surprised that you didn't seem to mention the reality that focal length does NOT have a bearing on depth of field. The truth is that at a given f-stop depth of field is governed by image size and NOT focal length. As an example, if you have a 50mm lens on one camera and a 100mm lens on another camera (same size sensors in both cameras) and they are both set to the same aperture with the longer lens twice the distance of the wider focal length camera so that the image size on both sensors is identical then the depth of field will be IDENTICAL.... Just sayin'
Light meter: Have to disagree. The recent sekonics are calibrated to your camera. So they should have an educated guess, what your camera is capable of under certain fstops and under a certain iso. It has reflected and incident metering. Both are not implemented in a camera at the same time, cameras have only reflected metering, with all the downsides of it. Depends on your use and what you want to do with it. The metering modes (spot, eval and all over the place) can give you comparable results, if you make your brain work and understand what the camera does, how many light is in the frame and what your camera will do to the picture to make this into middle grey. To say that a light meter is outdated is plain wrong. We could agree, that this thing is not for you, but outdated: no. That said, I have one, although I seldom use it, as live view and a histogram can give me a good starting point too. But there are situations when it comes in handy.
1.) Incident metering
2.) Averaging several measurements that you pic by yourself
3.) Measuring a scene with delta EVs. Giving you an estimation if your camera can capture the scene with one photo
4.) Ratios of flashes (in taking measurements for each flash with the dome in)
Totally agree, well said
No light meter, Sekonic or otherwise, is calibrated to any particular camera. The only thing a light meter does is measure light. Otherwise, if you owned multiple cameras, then you'd also need to own multiple light meters.
That statement makes no sense whatsoever.
You obviously don't have a Sekonic lightmeter and you never used the DTS software. You can save up to several camera profiles in the meter and switch the profiles in the lightmeter. No need to buy multiple meters. Just google it and then you may understand the concept.
www.sekonic.com/united-states/support/downloads/dtssoftwareformacandwindows.aspx
You are apparently ignorant of the Sekonic L 758 DR light meter. Using Sekonic's DTS software and a calibrated target you can calibrate not only each camera you own but each at a certain ISO and each with a different lens. You are very poorly informed.
Also, nothing comes close to what a Sekonic L-758 DR light meter can do when you are using multiple strobes and natural light and strobes. This meter has a built-in Pocket Wizard and will fire you flash for you.
You shouldn't talk about things that you don't know about. I doubt that you are doing any serious flash photography. If you were, you'd buy one to do your lighting ratios and not appear to be an amateur chimping away and wasting everyone's time.
There are several excellent Sekonic L758 DR videos on youtube and there is nothing in a camera's meter that can even get close to doing what this modern meter does.
Great video. You are by far the best instructor on You Tube. You have been my go to guy on everything photography for the past year and I've learned a ton as an amateur. Thank you for the lessons.
Thanks a lot for this video! I found the tips and clarifications very useful, but most important, the way of talking and explaning of both Tony and Chelsea is very pleasant. I love rewatching this and the D850 1h review just for fun.
Plenty of controversy in this video. Love it! I am going to be controversial myself here. I can't just let it go. At the level of analysis you are providing here (and I very much appreciate it), it makes sense for your video to demonstrate your level of ability in the field. That would mean your forehead, nose and cheek are not over exposed.
A yawn and a glance at 42:24? Shows that I am paying attention, no?
What if you've been paid, to say not to trust others, because they may have been secretly paid, so that we trust you more, even though you are secretly paid?
+jvgatti
"We're through the looking glass here, people"
+jvgatti What if you have been paid to write a comment about Tony being paid to say not to trust others because they may have been secretly paid, so that we trust Tony more, even though he is secretly paid?
Dominik Kin
How convenient of you to notice that. A little... TOO convenient!!
***** DUN-DUN-DUUUUN!!!!!
The plot thickens :)
dennytenny Give him a break, payed vs paid is quite a common mistake. it's the fault of inconsistency in English language.
In fact "Payed" is actually more logical
Play --> played, not plaid
Grey --> greyed, not graid
Pay --> paid, why?
Thank you so much Tony! You solved a question I had for a while. I watched your video and it explained focus breathing! I really enjoy watching your calm, well executed videos. My wife owns the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55 - 300 millimeter F 1:4.5 - 5.6 G ED lens. I bought her the 18 - 300 millimeter F 1:3.5 - 6.3 DC Sigma lens. I didn't believe her when she first said that zoomed out to 300mm the Nikon has greater magnification on her Nikon D5500 camera. I ran a test and found out that it was true! I couldn't figure out why this occurred. I thought both zoomed to 300mm the magnification would be exactly the same. Now I understand! Focus breathing! Thanks very much for your help!