You could easily check to see if that engine had a bent connecting rod initiating the failure by inspecting the wear on the crankshaft bearing. If the wear is even on the bearing the rod was not bent. Was there any signs of fatigue wear at the fracture point of the connecting rod? Was there any assembly damage to the connecting rod which would initiate a fracture? Good video just need to break it down some more for full analysis.
Turn that boost up boys, Bret needs more engines to rebuild. Thanks for another informative vid. I remember when I was a kid we put a con rod through a vw variant engine block! Not a nice noise as it was in a beach buggy.
Thanks Brett for al the trusted knowledge you share, VERY informative ! Is there any video were you talk about bottom end failure? or the difference between thrust positions from center to rear or have both?
On a somewhat related note, what suggestions do you have on motor oil for street driven turbo subarus ? When the topic of oil come up on facebook or message boards there will be 50 posts with 38 different recommendations. Some people say to use a 15-40 diesel oil(Shell Rotella), some people use super expensive premium European oil, some people make strange concoctions with something like 3 qts 5-30, 1 qt 10-40 and a bottle of oil stabilizer. My thoughts are to run a good off the shelf synthetic 5-30, Mobile 1 typically in my cars. Running a heavy oil like 15-40 seems like it will just waste power, and if a motor has low oil pressure a heavy oil is just a band-aid not fixing the problem. Paying outrageous prices for rare premium oils just seems like a waste of money to me. Let me know if my thoughts make sense or are off.
Hi there bud! If you are running a (anything)w40 oil, then yes I would whole heartedly advise you to switch to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40. Stay far away from 5w30's from any manufacturer as those in my opinion are not sufficiently robust enough to protect the turbocharger despite what the bottle says. Oil analysis says otherwise. If your car is being used for mostly street use then you could use Mobil 1 0w40. For a balanced track and street use Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, it has high zinc and phosphorous contents which you want for wear resistance and load bearing. The VI (Viscosity index) of that oil is 187...You will be hard pressed to find another oil with such a high viscosity index. The VI tells you how much the oil "thins" as it is loaded with heat and mechanical stress, a high VI means it stays more consistent and doesnt burn so easily and it doesnt readily get so thin that metal to metal contact can occur. Dont be mislead by flash points, they are done by either PMCC method or COC and with different ASTM methods (typically D92 or D93) rather ignore this number...With Helix Ultra 5w40 you can go 15 000 to 20 000 km on a heavily tuned car making big power. On mobil 1 0w40, probably 15 000km to be safe... If you use the car extensively for track work my advice is use Castrol Edge 10w60, its not fully synthetic but is very robust, BMW use this exclusively in their M cars...But dont go more than 7500 -10 000km on this oil, when it does burn it will leave deposits. As a general rule of thumb, only use an oil if its 5w40 WITH (this is vitally important) a VI of over 170. That way you know it is a true PAO/ester based synthetic and its not bound to low emission engines, those oils are bad for wear but good for emissions. One other thing, you want a sulphated ash content of 1.1% - 1.5%, this is an indicator of detergent and dispersant additives in the oil and are a very good thing! I hope this helps and that you find an oil that makes you happy. I have used Shell Helix Ultra in every car I own, except our diesels which run Shell Rimula R6m 10w40 synthetic. Good luck and hope you find this information useful. This advise was given to me by an oil expert and I never looked back with all modified cars.
Is there ANY way to check for bent con rods? On the FA, I have always been paranoid when it comes to their inherent weakness, but now you're saying it's possible the rods are bent already and capable of snapping later? :( I just hit 50k and I feel I've babied the car thus far, but I'd still like to know of a way I can check the rods without tearing the whole motor apart.
Hey Brett, so would you recommend over building the motor. I’m looking at building a solid 500hp motor, so should I look at building a motor that could hold 800?
But why is it always that cylinder that punches a hole through the block?. I've seen quite a few and there is always a hole right where the blanking plug is .
To an extent, yes. A bent connecting rod or a cracked/melted piston, in the case of risk management it's just smarter to replace the part. Crankshafts can be machined and balanced. It just comes down to the amount of damage really.
@@jordanp6420 Cylinder number 4 is the most common to fail for a number of reasons. The tune from the factory puts the most amount of stress on cylinder 4 in terms of most advanced timing and it receives the lowest amount of fuel. The reason they do this is because the knock sensor is right by #4. Subaru figured if that cylinder isn't knocking, the other 3 must be okay. The new FA20 has a knock sensor on both case halves so at least they learned from that mistake. But even with aftermarket tuning, you will still see cylinder 4 fail. And that's because it also has the worst cooling. As i understand it, there is no coolant jacket that pulls coolant from the head. So its kind of a dead spot and runs much hotter than the other 3 as a result. There is a new modification out there that has seen some great results called a Cylinder 4 cooling mod. If you're interested the owner Dominic has 3-4 in depth videos explaining the problem and his product. I have it installed on my 500whp STI, its very cheap insurance imo.
I just picture a dude saying ahy bro.. I think my engines knocking... Nah that's just how Subarus sound brah.. Thud! Thud! Thud! Thud! Boom crack! Yea bro, it was knocking lol. This was next level engine failure. I'll probably never reuse rods/pistions ever in my life after seeing this lol
Lifter tick - Worn tensioner - After market piston slap - Engine knock. . .similar sounds, not so similar consequences lol. It's pretty safe and economical to reuse undamaged parts. I'm with ya on piston rings though, if the engine has to come apart, those (my opinion) should be replaced.
Poor owner lol...that engine was not just cruising down the highway to cause that damage...thats from reving the snot out of it bouncing off the limiter...or to much boost...or both. Whenever someone blows the engine up in the car they just bought they always say it wasen't me....I was babying it and the rod blew out of the block all by its self lmao...just before they start whining for a refund...
Thanks from the USA Brett. Helpful and informative as always.
thanks
As always Brett great info very well explained have a great day mate
You could easily check to see if that engine had a bent connecting rod initiating the failure by inspecting the wear on the crankshaft bearing. If the wear is even on the bearing the rod was not bent.
Was there any signs of fatigue wear at the fracture point of the connecting rod?
Was there any assembly damage to the connecting rod which would initiate a fracture?
Good video just need to break it down some more for full analysis.
Cause n Effect.... Back to the basics Love it. :-)
Turn that boost up boys, Bret needs more engines to rebuild. Thanks for another informative vid. I remember when I was a kid we put a con rod through a vw variant engine block! Not a nice noise as it was in a beach buggy.
Any red flags on the fa20dit yet? I understand the con rods are the week link on those as well.
How do you expect me to pay attention to you when you have that calendar in the background?
U are a Godsend Brett. Thank you!
thanks
After modifying my wrx I realized how important it is to build a the motor the right way and get a good tuner
Thanks Brett for al the trusted knowledge you share, VERY informative ! Is there any video were you talk about bottom end failure? or the difference between thrust positions from center to rear or have both?
dam how could a h beam rod break ! wow never seen that except for a drag racer super charged motor ! hanks well explained !
On a somewhat related note, what suggestions do you have on motor oil for street driven turbo subarus ?
When the topic of oil come up on facebook or message boards there will be 50 posts with 38 different recommendations. Some people say to use a 15-40 diesel oil(Shell Rotella), some people use super expensive premium European oil, some people make strange concoctions with something like 3 qts 5-30, 1 qt 10-40 and a bottle of oil stabilizer.
My thoughts are to run a good off the shelf synthetic 5-30, Mobile 1 typically in my cars. Running a heavy oil like 15-40 seems like it will just waste power, and if a motor has low oil pressure a heavy oil is just a band-aid not fixing the problem. Paying outrageous prices for rare premium oils just seems like a waste of money to me. Let me know if my thoughts make sense or are off.
Hi there bud! If you are running a (anything)w40 oil, then yes I would whole heartedly advise you to switch to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40. Stay far away from 5w30's from any manufacturer as those in my opinion are not sufficiently robust enough to protect the turbocharger despite what the bottle says. Oil analysis says otherwise.
If your car is being used for mostly street use then you could use Mobil 1 0w40. For a balanced track and street use Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, it has high zinc and phosphorous contents which you want for wear resistance and load bearing. The VI (Viscosity index) of that oil is 187...You will be hard pressed to find another oil with such a high viscosity index. The VI tells you how much the oil "thins" as it is loaded with heat and mechanical stress, a high VI means it stays more consistent and doesnt burn so easily and it doesnt readily get so thin that metal to metal contact can occur. Dont be mislead by flash points, they are done by either PMCC method or COC and with different ASTM methods (typically D92 or D93) rather ignore this number...With Helix Ultra 5w40 you can go 15 000 to 20 000 km on a heavily tuned car making big power. On mobil 1 0w40, probably 15 000km to be safe... If you use the car extensively for track work my advice is use Castrol Edge 10w60, its not fully synthetic but is very robust, BMW use this exclusively in their M cars...But dont go more than 7500 -10 000km on this oil, when it does burn it will leave deposits.
As a general rule of thumb, only use an oil if its 5w40 WITH (this is vitally important) a VI of over 170. That way you know it is a true PAO/ester based synthetic and its not bound to low emission engines, those oils are bad for wear but good for emissions. One other thing, you want a sulphated ash content of 1.1% - 1.5%, this is an indicator of detergent and dispersant additives in the oil and are a very good thing!
I hope this helps and that you find an oil that makes you happy. I have used Shell Helix Ultra in every car I own, except our diesels which run Shell Rimula R6m 10w40 synthetic. Good luck and hope you find this information useful. This advise was given to me by an oil expert and I never looked back with all modified cars.
Amsoil all day every day I say.
Your videos are great mate!!! keep em coming!!!!
Mate bloody good energy.
Good work thank u and stay always teach us
Is there ANY way to check for bent con rods? On the FA, I have always been paranoid when it comes to their inherent weakness, but now you're saying it's possible the rods are bent already and capable of snapping later? :(
I just hit 50k and I feel I've babied the car thus far, but I'd still like to know of a way I can check the rods without tearing the whole motor apart.
Hey Brett, so would you recommend over building the motor. I’m looking at building a solid 500hp motor, so should I look at building a motor that could hold 800?
I would if I were you.
Always better to over build then not.
Safer that way.
But why is it always that cylinder that punches a hole through the block?. I've seen quite a few and there is always a hole right where the blanking plug is .
same damage to my wrs just last night and i have no warraty from the shop
at 1:34 it looks like the bottom of the piston skirt has been hitting the two rectangular shaped bits of metal at the bottom of the cylinder bore.
that is damage due to the broken con rod
Nice calendar in the background 😂
I was thinking the same. LMFAO. 😂🤣🤣😃
Are crankshaft and pistons reusable?
To an extent, yes. A bent connecting rod or a cracked/melted piston, in the case of risk management it's just smarter to replace the part. Crankshafts can be machined and balanced. It just comes down to the amount of damage really.
in this case the block and pistons and rods were trash
its the piston/rod closest to the turbo that always fails
common, but not always
Why? Is it because of the headers? Or I’ve heard the fuel injection system disadvantages number four piston somehow
@@jordanp6420 Cylinder number 4 is the most common to fail for a number of reasons. The tune from the factory puts the most amount of stress on cylinder 4 in terms of most advanced timing and it receives the lowest amount of fuel. The reason they do this is because the knock sensor is right by #4. Subaru figured if that cylinder isn't knocking, the other 3 must be okay. The new FA20 has a knock sensor on both case halves so at least they learned from that mistake.
But even with aftermarket tuning, you will still see cylinder 4 fail. And that's because it also has the worst cooling. As i understand it, there is no coolant jacket that pulls coolant from the head. So its kind of a dead spot and runs much hotter than the other 3 as a result. There is a new modification out there that has seen some great results called a Cylinder 4 cooling mod. If you're interested the owner Dominic has 3-4 in depth videos explaining the problem and his product. I have it installed on my 500whp STI, its very cheap insurance imo.
Is there a way to contact you via email? I’d like to buy a motor through your company but would be shipped to USA
VIsubby thank you!!!!!!!!
I just picture a dude saying ahy bro.. I think my engines knocking... Nah that's just how Subarus sound brah.. Thud! Thud! Thud! Thud! Boom crack! Yea bro, it was knocking lol. This was next level engine failure. I'll probably never reuse rods/pistions ever in my life after seeing this lol
Gamma Light did you even listen to what was said?
ERees. I think you're misinterpreting what I wrote.
Lifter tick - Worn tensioner - After market piston slap - Engine knock. . .similar sounds, not so similar consequences lol. It's pretty safe and economical to reuse undamaged parts. I'm with ya on piston rings though, if the engine has to come apart, those (my opinion) should be replaced.
wow so someone got that under water and tried to fix it by trying to remove the water xD
BECAUSE HE USE H BEAM RODS
a boat anchor LOLOLOL
Hydo lock .
Poor owner lol...that engine was not just cruising down the highway to cause that damage...thats from reving the snot out of it bouncing off the limiter...or to much boost...or both.
Whenever someone blows the engine up in the car they just bought they always say it wasen't me....I was babying it and the rod blew out of the block all by its self lmao...just before they start whining for a refund...