How to Do That Cool 3D Printing Timelapse Effect // Hacking the Timelapse
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- My personal process for taking great 3D printing timelapse videos may be a bit unorthodox, but it works great and definitely doesn't involve burning your hands.
Timelapse Rig STL Files : than.gs/m/916065
Shopping List :
Ender 3 3D Printer :
amzn.to/33mhVHo (amazon)
bit.ly/Creality... (gearbest)
MatterHackers PLA Filament : bit.ly/Matterha...
Fillamentum Flexible Filament : bit.ly/FlexFill
LED Strip : amzn.to/2UfuOPx
Camera Remote Shutter : amzn.to/2TUIHn3
Camera used is a Canon 77D : amzn.to/2x4M56c
My Favorite Lens : amzn.to/2UbOtzF
That intro was AMAZING!! Definitely inspired to figure out a printing time lapse system that works for us. HACK THE SYSTEM!!!!
Agreed, I loved that intro.
EvanAndkatelyn you guys also have the most fun intros!!!
Hi
HI EVAN AND KATELYN
woah what are you doing here?
This might be the best spoof intro I have ever seen!
"If i run the defrag and the disk cleanup at the same time..."
When I worked at Staples years ago we would tell people to do a defrag and a scan disk and call back when that was done. We knew we would be gone by then and be able to pass it on to the next person. It was great :)
danging gosh hecking darn you commented before me
E=mc^2?
Wich Programm have you used during this scene? (1:15)
1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 11 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 111 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 1 1111 1111 1111
1111 1111 1111 1111 11 1111 1111 1111
The Cheap 3D Printer and ususally it would do nothing.... 😂
Printing inside the Box is Thinking Outside the box :) Wow! Awesome.
Haha thanks
Hi, please, what are the settings that you use for your jgaurora a5? I would find them myself, but I'm finding them already for 2 months and still can't get a good result, because it's my first printer (btw thank you for your video about it, it's a great machine and I bought it mainly because of your review) and I'm not sure if those problems are there because the filament I use (it's the cheapest one I could find). So if you could tell me that, it would be really useful for me. Thanks. Oh, and I almost forgot! That was probably the most unexpected way I could think about! XD Where you take these ideas...
@@vit.budina I use the exact same settings as my cr-10, I bet it's way easier to find profiles for that!
Thank you very much, do you have any verifyed source? Sorry for asking this, I'm not that much experienced user. Thank you. :)
@@vit.budina not for cura, sorry. With Simplify3D you can just run the setup assistant and select the cr-10 as your printer
The timelapse intro is one thing, but having that seamlessly cut into the shot of you picking the vase off the bed is another level of cool
Just stopped the timelapse, then started recording video and picked the piece up. Then just stitched these two together. Done :)
5:46
You caught me off guard there lmao
Probably one of my favorite edits ever
Perfect first try! :)
Lmfao I laugh a good 30 seconds replaying It
That intro was awesome and hilarious!
If you use cura there is a better way now:
Extensions -> post processing -> Modify g-code-> add a script -> timelapse
Pause: your shutter speed in miliseconds + about 100ms or more for shutter delay
X: your x-value
Y: your y-value
speed: _1000mms_ should do although it doesn't nearly reach those speeds on my Ender 3. Change it as you like :)
to avoid stringing:
Preferences -> Settings -> Travel -> enable _retract at layer change_ -> enable _custom_ on side panel -> check _retract at layer change_
That intro with clamp and cable, mc^3, the welder, the knob spinning ;D ;D that was hilarious !! awesome!
love your 'analog' approach. I've been wanting to do time lapses for a long time, but got hold back by the idea of diving into octoprint. this seems like a very cool alternative. eventhough I don't have a camera like yours lying around. not a priority, but still would love to do it sometime.
I might go about it in a different way but man I really appreciate the explanation on how the print seems to rise out of thin air. I thought for sure there was some kind of editing magic to it- nope! You literally just program the printer to rise a certain amount each layer and snap a photo. Crazy! Thanks for sharing.
That was the best intro on youtube!
I always appreciate mechanical solutions, this is an awesome solution!
Great tutorial very funny! I'm also using my DSLR for my timelapses. Snaps are triggered using a limit switch wired up to a remote trigger that is place in front of the bed.
I KNEW it was manual stop motion. I found it so cool I had a long conversation with my son about how you must have down it and it was clear to me you were doing manual stop motion and stitching the photos together. It was fun to try to figure out how you were doing it.
Octolapse does it automatically for you just need to plug the camera in might have to change how long the printer waits for the shot but its only like at max 500 ms
the best 3d printing channel on youtube! And I watch them all. If you look at other youtubers, they all have a white or light wall with shelves and a bunch of cool stuff behind them. I mean pegboard is fun and all, but with 3d printing you have an excuse to have the coolest stuff on your shelf.
Nicely done Devin. I subscribed for quite a while to your Channel and many other 3d print related channels and it is so nice to see you guys constantly improving and evolving, before, your videos had so much more serious mood, almost like One is giving a college presentation but now its so well done, entertaining while keeping informative and clear, not to metion you really honored the "open source" philosophy by sharing your way of doing the timelapse so that really inspires me to do something similar here in Brazil with my little 3d printing company. Keep up buddy!
Thanks for following the journey! I have trouble watching back some of my older videos haha
Extremely valuable information. Thank you. Never even considered a hardware solution. Just got my own modified version up and running and it works so well. Also, fantastic intro. The modulated scream when you jack into your ear is hauntingly beautiful
That intro was the best ever!! I didn't have access to a printer this summer so I stopped obsessing over your creation vids. I missed your energy and I brought my tsugite puzzle with me in my travels. Too much fun 😁
Late to the game. Built a DSLR time lapse setup and was having issues finding simple Gcode. Yours worked like a charm. Thank you!
That was a completely unexpected intro from your channel 😂. Literally laughed out loud. Was worth every minute of your time!
Cura has an improved method for this time-lapse function:
Go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code > Add new script > Time Lapse.
Then, you can modify the X and Y locations to suit your printer and the pause length.
I've tried and it works, hope this helps! :)
Thanks for the update, good to know!
This is 2 years from the future: This intro was still awesome man! I was smiling and laughing so hard!
Not going to lie - the intro was AWESOME! Thanks for sharing.
After the brilliant intro i pressed the like button. Then, when i saw the brilliant finger pressing mechanic, i wanted to press like again. Since i’m already subscribed, i felt like commenting i must comment to show my appreciation. So brilliant.
More pegboard stuff???
Edit: If someone is looking for more pegboard models, Devin's myminifactory page has a lot of desings to print or to get inspiration from.
I just found out your Instagram and I saw that awesome timelapse you posted today then you said you will make a vid of how you do that astonish effect and then I was straight to your channel to wait for this!! It's a really clever technique, very interesting! You got one more sub!!
btw, that intro was funny as hell!!
With a room filled with all those foamboards, plastic and printers running constantly, how do you manage your firesafety?
Just curious!
I've got several smoke detectors and cameras, but I do feel the need to increase my safety measures!
I have the same feeling, especially when I leave mine running overnight. I do have a smoke detector above it, stay at home when its on and have a fire extinguisher next to it. But I don't really know what else to do except to build basically a fireproof safe with a printer in... which seems economically unfeasable.
I store all my flammable liquids and oil soaked rags next to my 3D printers... I'd like to rebuild my house one day. :) That, and I'm not paranoid about printer fires that are probably the lowest chance of fire I have in my house when there are dozens of devices that are charging, cooking in the kitchen, clothes drier, flaming rats, etc.
@@Mark_5150 still.. Its something that everyone always thinks about as "thatll never happen to ME".
I didn't say it can't, just that I don't care if it does. I have 2 printers running right now while no one is home, there are other things to worry about than having to rebuild my house.
3D printer fires are such a small percentage of house fires, I can't even find statistics on them. I think there are better odds of someone breaking into my house today, sitting on my couch while smoking a cigarette, taking a nap and catching the couch on fire than my printers catching fire.
I've been trying to figure this out for months now. Thank you for the assistance. Now I just need a remote for my time lapse camera and I'm all set! Great intro BTW!
This can also be done using a phone and headphones, when the volume button on the headphone is pressed the phone takes a photo.
Won't that immediately fill up your storage
It takes one picture every layer. A printer with a hight of 200 mm and a layer hight of 0.2 mm that's 1000 layers or 1000 pictures . Most phones should be able to store 1000 pictures
@@proginx hmm yeah but it would still fill up fairly quickly if we assume the resolution is for a 1080p video but if it's attached to an external hard drive then yeah it's possible
Get a bigger SD card?
You phone can't hold 1000 pictures? Woah
Pretty innovative! I did a time lapse when I reviewed the Phrozen Sonic Mini but I was pretty old school. The print lasted like an hour so I literally just left a video camera recording it then edited the footage. Cutting out one frame every time the build plate raised up. Which was about every 7 seconds. Yeah, it took a long time and I probably didn't do the entire hour.
Now that is patience! But whatever works, right?
That intro was absolutely legendary. Your videos are really chill and then this happens. 👌🏻
I LOVED the intro. Great video!
That intro was everithing!!! And what a cool aproach for the timelapse :)
Holy smokes -- you never fail to amuse! That is extraordinary Devin, congratulations!
Hey Devon, I wanted to let you know I gave a shout out to you in my video that is coming out today! This video in particular was the inspiration I needed to change my time-lapse style for better. I didn't ran out of time to explain how I did that was similar to your creation... but I plan on addressing that in the near future. You do good work, I am glad I found your channel.
That hacking intro is the funniest thing I've seen in a while. Made my day!
Oh, and would love to see some more about that crazy spiral infill
I'm glad you finally made this video!! Thanks Devin.
Update: I commented this before the intro and now I'm shook
Devin, that was awesome. And the whole time lapse isn't obscured by an extruder head. Awesome presentation. I use Simplify 3D as well so I'll be keeping this in mind.
Math time: As of this posting 2.6% of responders don't know anything about time lapse, 3D printing, or how to tie their shoes.
You are always so entertaining and your videos are always so interesting! I never get tired of them; even if I don’t have a 3D printer and can’t try these techniques out myself, I think your creations are so awesome (: Great ideas!!
Dude, I loved this - and your intro had me laughing out loud! Definitely going to try implementing something like this for my future videos.
Clever solution! If pressing the trigger button gets fidgety with use, I would suggest wiring the button to a optical sensor. They're easy to wire and designed for applications like this.
You had the right idea building the "black box," but you need to black out more objects: like the Ender display in the last video clip. If you could remove all distractions, only the object of interest would remain in the timelapse.
Not a bad idea!
20 likes fo the intro, 80 more for all the work, creativity and explanation.
Hello. Im a huge fan. This video inspired us ( myself and my boss ) to try it. We had a lot of issues with how hard the button on the remote had to be pressed. Too hard or too soft or too fast or too slow and it would not work. We then figured out that the stereo mini plug only needs to be bridged to cause the shutter to go off. So we made our own cable and it vastly simplified the process. I can send you pictures and specifics that document what we did if you are interested. You won't need a carriage for the remote the way we did it. And no rubber button pusher either. We were going down some serious rabbit holes with that darn remote. Any who. Let me know if your interested. Love your channel. Thanks for all you do!!!!!!!
Yes, other people mentioned that I could just use a limit switch but I haven't yet because I'm hesitant to tear apart the remote shutter... but if it works better I might as well!
@@make.anything I tore up an audio cable. It's just a stereo audio extension cable. Cost $4 at Best buy.
@@JulioDMNewYork oh nice, I guess I'll start rummaging through all my hoarded cables and go from there. Thanks for the heads up!
Where can I get those spicy goggles?
Harbor Freight Tools
Enrique Montes thanks
This can be simplified by using a micro switch to trigger the camera. If you use one with a long lever, you don't have to worry about using a rubber finger because the switch lever will flex.
This video was exactly what I was looking for!
In CURA, use "extensions", "post-processing", "modify G-Code", "add script", and "insert at layer change" to add a script between each layer. Select "after" for "when to insert" so the image is taken when the layer is finished. (Tried and tested.)
What is the g-code?
@@chris1987notts1 whatever you need to take the image. Like going to press a switch at a certain position. G-Code is pretty simple for a few lines. You can find how to write commands online.
Devin, your phalanges-like finger is awesome. I’ve printed a few things with NinjaFlex, so I had some already, and the design is amazing!
Now what's left is to implement it in software so just an interrupt is generated by the processor when an endstop is hit on the current max layer height or trinamic detects an forced change. Instead of endstop we can use calculation to find the max x or y it'll move in that direction by pre-analysing the gcode by a pi and then calculate the capture trigger times n send signal to camera (via 2nd usb or wifi/bt if supported)
Just saw this. Amazing ingenuity brother! Definitely earned my sub!
Holy, this is like that Flintstones bus where everyone gets on and then peddles to make it go. Well done. I bet this took a lot of ingenuity and though, as well as trial and error.
I just installed Cura 4.2. That includes a couple of new scripts/events. One is Time Lapse, which I think needs you to have an IR transmitter connected to your mainboard. The other is having a script triggered at the end of a layer, so you can just use something like the script shown here.
You should do more intros like this one, it adds a lot to the enjoyment!
For those interested in a CURA bit of code that kinda works for me and my setting (CR10-S4 with stock settings and CURA 3.5.1 Stock CR10s4 profile). I used relative positioning of the extruder in order to force the retraction of the filament as the normal G10 and G11 commands were not doing anything... Also if anyone has suggestions to improve this code, I am all eyes as I have the problem that it starts extruding during the travel back to the print and leaves a small filament artefact that grows with the print...
@ Devin would you mind sharing two sets of gcodes where one has the normal gcode and the other has the S3D post processed gcode. It would help a great deal to compare and find a solution for Cura. Thanks!
Use Extensions > Post processing > Modify G-Code > Add script > search and replace (and replace the G1 coordinates with your own values)
Replace this text
;LAYER:
By this text
G91 ;RelativePositioning
G1 F3000 E-5 ;ExtruderGoesBackward5mm
M221 S0 ;FlowRate0percent
G90 ;AbsolutePositioning
G1 F6000 X290 Y308 ;QuickMove
G1 F1000 X300 ;PrecisionMove
G4 P500 ;Dwell
G1 F6000 X290 Y308 ;QuickMoveAway
G91 ;RelativePositioning
G1 F3000 E5 ;ExtruderGoesForward5mm
G90 ;AbsolutePositioning
M221 S100 ;FlowRate100percent
;LAYER:
hey man, i would like to make the same thing for cura, but this is the first time i started doing something with G-codes x.x to be honest i dont even know how to put your g code in cura x.x
Tried these settings in cura, unfortunately I m getting stringing issue after the extruder returns to the print after pressing the button, I m using a ender 3 pro. It would be great if you can asist, Thanks.
Heh, that's honestly exactly what I thought you were doing (physical button presser, per layer script, and all). That's pretty great. I had no idea there was something built into octoprint to do the same thing.
I've been wanting to know how to film this, thanks to you I'm going to try this for my next 3D printing video !
Thats pretty much what I thought you did to make it work. Pretty awesome work.
Awesome Devin. Thanks for the tutorial. One question - I am curious to know that on an average how much more time does it take for a print to complete if we are to make make such a timelapse?
My estimate would be about 5-10 extra seconds per layer, getting shorter the higher the print gets
I am going to have to try this :) It looks like you can use the post-processing scripts in Cura call "insert at layer change" to insert GCODE the same way you talk about in this video (i have not tried this yet).
Such awesome time lapse shots!
That's genius. Practical effects for the win!
The intro is hilarious, loved it. And a great take on this technique
300K SO CLOSE SO PROUD OF YOU DAD
Very clever trick with the shutter button. Also you are actually hilarious. Love those goggles.
that intro was awesome! love to see more funny stuff like that!
Brilliant in its simplicity!
This was really cool, i might try doing something similar. I'll be looking for the Cura slicer commands. Thanks for making a fun and instructional video
hahaha, brilliant intro Devin! Sorry for calling you out on Insta assuming you were using Octolapse, this makes a lot of sense now, and how "old skool" using a physical squidgy finger to press an actual button! Very very clever though, well thought out! If you had more access to the printer firmware you can replicate this electronically too - Marlin has a "camera trigger" command that essentially is the same idea where you trigger a GPIO pin which is connected to a shutter release. Your box setup has given me some ideas though, along with the LED strip... hush hush...!!! 🕵
Very cool! thanks for sharing!
wildrose hype!
Will you make behind the scene?
it's so simple and ingenious idea at the same time!) I think it can be improved. You can shoot all this on the phone, and the phones have such a function as shooting when you press the headset volume button, and so you can take a non-working headset and parallel to the volume button to solder the limit switch. And the switch itself is mounted on the frame of the printer by the principle of the limit switch on the X axis.
Dude this was such a great vid and as a techie I loved the intro!!
This was so cool! Great idea to actually physically put in a timelapse system. Love your intro and the style of your video! Keep up the great work! :)
I'm working on a system to use a Gopro remote and the Anycubic i3 Mega, Thanks for the inspiration!
I love the anycubic I3 mega
Hey zack ..did you manage to do that ..as i have two i3's and would like to have a crack at this ..🤘
Hi, I also have the I3 Mega and I am struggling to get rid of stringing on the time-lapse. The code that I am currently using is as follows:
TakePhoto
G90; Absolute
G10; Retract
G1 F9000 X205 Y215; Quick
G1 F1000 X215; Poke
G4 P500; Wait
G1 F9000 X205; Back
G11; Extrude
;Layer
The retraction doesn't appear to register in Cura. I've also tried a manual extrude and retract however the retraction distances seems to increase every layer. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Don't yet have a 3d printer so this is going in my library of important information. Thanks!
Awesome stuff Devin. I love seeing the physical control of things from time to time. Really well executed. Cheers, JAYTEE
That intro gained you a subscribe from me! Great job and really great idea!
Impressive you
Did it nicely
It looks like a neat decorative flower vase
Yay the intro was really good! You went all out which made it non-cringey... And it was hilarious! :D
Amazing ! Congrats
That was very cool.
but I use a different method :
open the remote shatter, wire the button to a relay,
use G-code to trigger the relay between any layer without moving the arms and difficulty to make some parts to stick the shutter around the printer.
but again : you're so inspire to me
carry on
bro thank you sooo much! I've been trying to figure out how to do this forever!
That is an awesome technique, thank you for sharing Devin. I like the mechanical alternative to a program based version of doing those neat time-lapses.
Yaas thx, I've been waiting for this soo much!!
Actually I came only for 1 minute of this video, but stayed because of the intro. Subscribed...
This solution was so simple I would've never thought of it
Best video you've ever done. I like the intro so far... cool
That's a cool idea...thanks for sharing this behind the scenes...
this is great! i literally have everything i need already to do this!
I just remembered vase exploration and think you should do more with those color nylon filaments
Just got the MatterHackers Pulse XE which should make printing with Nylon much easier, so I probably will!
Thank you for the epilepsi test, I can confirm that I do not have epilepsy, but my friend is dancing in the floor right now because of the excitement.
That was awesome man! Very ingenious and creative way!
You can also use the PrusaSlicer app to do the same. In the Printer Settings in Expert mode you can edit the G-code. Great video. Thanks! Really helps to see an old-school hack that feels much simpler. Or maybe I just like building things.
Holy crap, that edit was amazing.
Definitely doing this. BTW lots of ppl asking about layer change code in Cura? Any answers? Best I can think of is opening the g-code file in a text editor and doing a search/replace for ;LAYER + number
And the Oscar goes to.. 😬 the intro is the top. PS: all of these time lapse video are so amazing for who is watching and not for who is printing. I hate all the plastic that goes and make retraction crazy for all the moves to reach the point for the photo for my tevo tornado, I’ll waiting when octolapse will be no more beta. Ps2: did you calculate how much time you lose with this amazing hack ?(in printing time)
I'm working on bringing octolapse out of beta, just put in a good 6 hrs today :) that being said, alternate methods like the one OP uses here are AWESOME to see. I'd like to see firmware or slicer timelapse support at some point too. Who knows what great methods will be discovered in the future?
0:55 - 1:25
*How my mom thinks I fix the wifi*
best. intro. EVER.
Hi NK Cubed I love your puzzles