You are a legend. The irig with a rode lav mic sounds just amazing. We bought a 600d for our company blogs and we didn't want to faff about with secondary sound recording. We set the camera gain to one notch up from zero and plugged into the camera with the irig and the sound is great. You've saved us a lot of money and a lot of time. I hope irig send you a nice Christmas hamper!
The connector for the iRig pre is designed to be used with an iPhone or iPad. One wire supplies the audio from the device to the phone, two wires are used to feed the headphone amp from the phone or tablet back to the headphone port on the iRig pre, and the other wire is common. There is no headphone amp in the iRig pre, without the phone and without this hack nothing will come from the headphone port.
EPIC. Wow. This has to be the best audio hack since your y-splitter for the H4n video. I'm very critical of your videos... and I have to say BIG props to you for bringing this knowledge to the public!
I bought on iRig Pre a few days ago for an iPhone only film project that I am working on. I was surprised how nice the pre-amp is for such a cheap device. I am sure it won't be long before iRig make a pre specifically for the DSLR market.
I also bought one of these iRif Pre units and perfomred the hack as per your video and blog page. Works great. I can niw use my NTG-2 shotgun mic and Behringer studio mics perfectly with my ZOOM H4n with lots more headroom than I got before. Thanks for the video.
Done this hack on 4 units so far and they all work great. Just remember to use the black wire for the headphone jack, not the other one. It's so small in my kit, and durable, and if I lose it or step on it, it's only $35 for a new one. But I can just pop it on to the back of my Senn 416 shotgun and wrap a 15' M-M mini stereo from the iRig down my fishpole into my GH5 mic input and monitor from my camera. Sounds great. The only drawback is the rinky-dink pot on the side that is impossible to judge where it's set.
You are correct, I used bad soldering techniques in this video and yes shrink tube is much better than electrical tape. Lazy and quick, it worked but it could have caused problems. Using lots of flux isn't the proper way to do things.
I used to repair guitars and amps on the side while working in a recording studio when I was younger. Still have all my old electronics gear and I can still design and repair electronics if when needed.
The headphone jack is passive before the hack and is designed to get its gain from an iOS device. If you leave the cable and jumper the headphone jack the amp for the microphone will be trying to drive both the headphone jack and anything attached to the cable. I don't think the amplifier has enough power for that.
Just done it with my new Irig. Thanks. Works a treat, as you would expect. I used self amalgamating tape, (not sticky electrical tape.) and heated some shrink wrap over the wires. I think you were brave going in there, with that huge soldering iron and flux, as all flux is, is ACID. Anyway I chickened that, and went with tape and heat shrink tubes. I even blanked the redundant wire hole off, with black Mastic, from the inside. Soooooooooooooooo THANKS AGAIN :-)
Very useful hack, it worked perfectly for my Canon 60D with any XLR mic and also on my pre amplified acoustic bass. Great sound quality, very nice alternative. Thank you very much !
You could use that as well and you could probably hack it the same way, but the price is about the same $35 v.s. $34.32 and the iRig Pre is much smaller and easier to mount.
Cause you are still using the headphone monitor hole to plus a cable out which already give you a sound right? So that could basically give sound with that hole already and just plug that out to the camera with a cable.
I totaly just did this for my Canon T3i. It works great. This will help when shooting on the go and not having to record audio to my H4n all the time. Thanks..
If you want to record audio with the iphone, it's best not to perform the hack, and use an adapter cable instead. Not sure how the audio input is set up on the htc, i'd have to look into that.
Be better hack if you made headphone port work plus extra wire out that plug into the camera, so atleast you don't have to get a wire that split to listen plus go into the camera.
Tried the nady dmp2 and the one I received had horrible noise issues. The final audio quality was basically useless. Maybe if you're lucky enough to get one that's not a lemon, it could work.
Hmm, I wonder how hard it would be to wire it up myself. I might have to ditch the case, and just put it in a project box from radioshack. Thanks for your input!
Its the black wire next to the headphone out that ties with the red and yellow. The black towards the xlr gets taped off. I messed it up and didn't damage anything
That wouldn't be a hack, it would be a completely redesigned product. There is only a single mono amp in the unit which really isn't designed to drive headphones.
What would probably be a better "hack" is to cut the cable closer to the jack connector, and not the iRig, and simply replacing the (iPhone) TRRS Jack with a (normal mono jack) TS Jack. This way you can plug the iRig straight into the camera and you don't need to get another cable, further more you could even splice two of these iRigs together into one TRS mini Jack, for stereo audio input or 2 separate audio channels, like a lavalier mic and an boom/ambient mic
Hey DJ, did you ever end up hacking the locking Neutrik connector onto the iRig Pre's circuit board? I'm thinking of putting together two of these into a custom enclosure with side-mount cold shoe connector for my EOS-70D rig much like the audio/monitor assembly on the new C300 mkII and want to have the beautiful Neutrik combo connectors.
Why go through all that if you can just use an adapter to get the same results and not need an adapter to use it as with the original configuration. I have no issue with soldering but not for no real benefit. Do you know about the difference of quality compared to the irig pro. The irig pro is about 3 times the price of the irig pre!! That's a huge difference. Would you think it's better to get a Pro or 3 pres? I watched one youtube video on that but the guy only said that the pro sounded better with no details. There could have been many reasons for that. I am not surprised if the pro sound is better but how much better is important, if it is very subtle and maybe it can be compensated for, somehow. On another note, Shure makes an under $50 dynamic mic called PG48. Do you know anything about it? It's always nice to have a couple of cheap mics around in a pinch or for loud performances where mic quality is buried in the noise. Have fun and thanks for the video.
The Rode SC3 TRRS to TRS adaptor is much better quality than the cheap Y adaptor and will do the job. Rode made this adaptor so that their TRRS Lav mic+ for iPhone can be used in the TRS input of DSLR.
Yea, youtube has also been randomly unsubscribing people from the channel as well. Since the February update youtube has "cleaned up" about 6,000 subscribers. I get a lot of messages about it.
Your description says the hack is a "cleaner" option. Do you mean cleaner in terms of cable management, or does using an adapter actually put noise into the audio?
could you solder in a 1/8" female output instead of just leaving a hole then you would have two outs. you could listen with one and feed the other to the camera or one to the camera and the other to a zoom h1 or something like that.
that sucks man, I thought it was odd when I saw this one. I checked to see if you had been gone or something but nope. Don't worry I'll still check out the others ;)
I like the headphone out female jack. Lot cleaner than trying to plug headphones into camera. So... alternate hack is to cut the dumb iPhone plug off and solder a regular 3.5 mm male mic jack in its place. However, I would recommend shrink tube rather than electrical tape to cover.
Works like a champ!! Forget the soldering and Mickey Mouse. Buy a simple $4 "headphone Y splitter" for iPhone/iPad headphones. They have a TRRS male plug. If you want to use those h/phones with a laptop you need stereo 3.5 mm stock TRS plugs. Splitter converts TRRS (female) to headphone + mic jacks (2 x TRS) for laptop. NOW plug the iRig PRE plug (TRRS) into Splitter female. Voile, headphone + mic jacks for camera. Plug your headphones into iRig. No-brainer!
Here's my two comments: 1: mounting the irig pre onto the mic stand is NOT an option. You should always keep the unbalanced cable length between the irig pre and the camera as short as possible to avoid picking up hum noise. My advice: Mount the irig pre onto the camera rig always. 2: Regarding the questions about the headphone out in the comment section: The irig pre headphone out can not be used to monitor the microphone signal. I only provides a passthrough for the headphone sognal that comes fron the iphone. Since we don not have an iphone in the setup the headphone plug is dead anyway. (at least that's how my unit seems to work.) 3: (bonus comment) Since we want to keep the unbalanced cable length short (see comment 1) why not just use the supplied cable to connect the irig pre to the camera. The mic signal has to go to the tip while the shaft and rings are connected to ground. It will then work as a mono ts jack which is exactly what we need here.
When you look around at battery operated phantom power boxes, the price ranges from $28 on Aliexpress, to this at $35, to some utterly stupid prices of $1500. I know the circuitry has to include isolation. voltage boost etc, but what gives? What iRig shows to me is that the other makes like Denecke, AKG, etc are just a ripoff. End of rant! I wonder if the TRRS output is cleaner than the h/p output. Anyways, I think this will do me fine. Nice review.
Hi onelonedork, I love your video and want to buy the irig for my 5d m2, one question left. How do you control the sound while recording, where do you plug in your headphones? I have to hear what i´m recording. thanks so much!
Hey dj. Can u just clarify why the trrs jack wont work with a, say a 60 d. Would it be better to get an adaptor unit rather than an adaptor and cable. Thanks for the noob vids they r ace.
Just curious, will this still work without clipping the cable? (If I wanted to test it out with my mikes before cutting the wire?) Really looking for a way to use one of my sony ECM 77B lav mikes for interviews.
Did you see the Tascam IXZ. It has the xlr/jack input. I'am think that i'll buy a tascam. They make good quilty and i like taht it can take line signal too. If i don't hack it because i like to be able to use this for my ipad/iphone what adaptor cabel is it you did use before the hack? It was some kind of Y cabel.. Thans for nice videos
I Just did this mod and all I can say is what a difference this made on my Canon 60D, night and day. It sounds amazing with my AT 835a shotgun very clean with Magic Lantern set to 10db the min. Without the mod ML would need to be set to 32db gain and even with a good sensitive mic this was not enough and was for from clean with tons of noise, now it works as it should, and I have he option of Phantom Power without spending hundreds. One question did you test how long this will power a mic for using Phantom power and with Phantom Power off? Thanks for posting your mod.
Hey not bad considering its using the headphone out instead of the output. What happens if you just use the headphone out and leave the other cable as is?
I'm kinda confused what this hack actually does.. if your camera has a 3.5mm input couldn't you just use an xlr to 3.5mm and then plug the output into the camera?
After cutting the wire close to the jack, how would I know what wires to connect or is there more soldering to do? Can u help give descriptions? Would radioshack or bestbuy have the TS jack?
I have a Canon HFG30, which has an incredibly bad internal preamp. I was hoping to get rid of the awful hiss it produces (at least when used with a shotgun mic) by purchasing Rode Video Mic Pro and using the +20dB setting on it. Unfortunately the hiss is still audible and I feel like I wasted my money. Could the iRig Pre fix the hiss issue? I'd like to use it with the VMP if possible (using an xlr to 3.5 adapter) or Rode NTG1. Thanks.
Just curious, if you tie the wrong black cable, will it still work? I got mi iRig to work but there is quite a bit of hiss. I was wondering if I tied the wrong black cable. Any thoughts? Thanks guys
I tried this and ran it to my GH$, and I get a stuttering sound but is affected by the shutter? When I adjust my shutter the "stutter" either slows down or speeds up? It doesn't appear to be on the recording.
I have a question Could I use this device to power a XLR mic to my laptop that has broken USB ports to record music without a problem do I have to cut wires ect or Can I just Plug device into 3.5 mic jack on side of laptop, Plug xlr mic to device then open recording software please let me know thank you!
Could I not attach the irig Pre black cable into Headset splitter cable then the mic pink plug into the camera 5D mark II ? 2ndly, why do I need the 1/8 inch stereo male to male extension cable for sorry I missed a point here? Thanks.
Just to add another point, instead of Converting the 'Headphone jack to OUTPUT" for camera. Question: Could I not convert the current irig Pre cable to Output straight to camera, Keeping the 'Headphone jack as listening/monitoring for noise'? Can anyone explain please. Thx
It makes the package a lot cleaner to use. If you have the cable and adapter you are left with a bunch of extra adapters and wires.
You are a legend. The irig with a rode lav mic sounds just amazing. We bought a 600d for our company blogs and we didn't want to faff about with secondary sound recording.
We set the camera gain to one notch up from zero and plugged into the camera with the irig and the sound is great. You've saved us a lot of money and a lot of time. I hope irig send you a nice Christmas hamper!
The connector for the iRig pre is designed to be used with an iPhone or iPad. One wire supplies the audio from the device to the phone, two wires are used to feed the headphone amp from the phone or tablet back to the headphone port on the iRig pre, and the other wire is common.
There is no headphone amp in the iRig pre, without the phone and without this hack nothing will come from the headphone port.
EPIC. Wow. This has to be the best audio hack since your y-splitter for the H4n video. I'm very critical of your videos... and I have to say BIG props to you for bringing this knowledge to the public!
I bought on iRig Pre a few days ago for an iPhone only film project that I am working on. I was surprised how nice the pre-amp is for such a cheap device. I am sure it won't be long before iRig make a pre specifically for the DSLR market.
I also bought one of these iRif Pre units and perfomred the hack as per your video and blog page. Works great. I can niw use my NTG-2 shotgun mic and Behringer studio mics perfectly with my ZOOM H4n with lots more headroom than I got before. Thanks for the video.
Done this hack on 4 units so far and they all work great. Just remember to use the black wire for the headphone jack, not the other one. It's so small in my kit, and durable, and if I lose it or step on it, it's only $35 for a new one. But I can just pop it on to the back of my Senn 416 shotgun and wrap a 15' M-M mini stereo from the iRig down my fishpole into my GH5 mic input and monitor from my camera. Sounds great. The only drawback is the rinky-dink pot on the side that is impossible to judge where it's set.
Works a charm. Make sure you solder the right black wire though! Check, double check, triple check then solder.
You are correct, I used bad soldering techniques in this video and yes shrink tube is much better than electrical tape. Lazy and quick, it worked but it could have caused problems. Using lots of flux isn't the proper way to do things.
I used to repair guitars and amps on the side while working in a recording studio when I was younger. Still have all my old electronics gear and I can still design and repair electronics if when needed.
Check on amazon for headphone amplifiers, that could do the trick. Or you could wire in a 3.5mm jack in place of the xlr adapter.
Just wanted to say thanks for making such useful videos for DLSR film makers. Your time and effort is invaluable. I greatly appreciate it!
You just saved me having to buy a juicedlink for my future GH3. This is all I needed, 1 xlr, pre amp, & small form factor. Good job & thanks.
The headphone jack is passive before the hack and is designed to get its gain from an iOS device. If you leave the cable and jumper the headphone jack the amp for the microphone will be trying to drive both the headphone jack and anything attached to the cable. I don't think the amplifier has enough power for that.
Depending on the unit you are using there can be a slight roll off around 80 hz of about -1db. Otherwise the response is pretty much flat.
Just done it with my new Irig. Thanks.
Works a treat, as you would expect.
I used self amalgamating tape, (not sticky electrical tape.) and heated some shrink wrap over the wires.
I think you were brave going in there, with that huge soldering iron and flux, as all flux is, is ACID.
Anyway I chickened that, and went with tape and heat shrink tubes.
I even blanked the redundant wire hole off, with black Mastic, from the inside.
Soooooooooooooooo THANKS AGAIN :-)
Very useful hack, it worked perfectly for my Canon 60D with any XLR mic and also on my pre amplified acoustic bass. Great sound quality, very nice alternative.
Thank you very much !
You could use that as well and you could probably hack it the same way, but the price is about the same $35 v.s. $34.32 and the iRig Pre is much smaller and easier to mount.
Yea, I use nady cm90's for cymbals, that way if they get hit by the drummer they are still cheap to replace. They do a good job for the price.
looking at the electronics tools you have nobody can say you are a film maker as a professional :)
Cause you are still using the headphone monitor hole to plus a cable out which already give you a sound right? So that could basically give sound with that hole already and just plug that out to the camera with a cable.
You could, however the built in amp might have a little trouble driving two inputs which would reduce the output gain on both devices.
I totaly just did this for my Canon T3i. It works great. This will help when shooting on the go and not having to record audio to my H4n all the time. Thanks..
If you want to record audio with the iphone, it's best not to perform the hack, and use an adapter cable instead. Not sure how the audio input is set up on the htc, i'd have to look into that.
ic, thats why you close off the output circuit to give all the power to the headphone. Cool hack and only $35.
The last two shots are with the tokina 11-16mm at about 15mm so that I only needed a short cable from the iRig Pre back to the camera.
You are the Man !!! I will get one as soon as I can ! Thanks for the HACK !
You need a "VXLR adapter" to connect a Rode VideoMic using a XLR plug. You can find them on amazon
Actually that cheapo mic sounds pretty good. great vid!
You need a XLR microphone. But you can use a "VXLR adapter" if you want to use your Rode VideoMic
Be better hack if you made headphone port work plus extra wire out that plug into the camera, so atleast you don't have to get a wire that split to listen plus go into the camera.
It would be nice if you could refresh this video from the per hack again. We would deeply appreciate that.
Tried the nady dmp2 and the one I received had horrible noise issues. The final audio quality was basically useless. Maybe if you're lucky enough to get one that's not a lemon, it could work.
Hmm, I wonder how hard it would be to wire it up myself. I might have to ditch the case, and just put it in a project box from radioshack.
Thanks for your input!
I might have to try this.
Its the black wire next to the headphone out that ties with the red and yellow. The black towards the xlr gets taped off. I messed it up and didn't damage anything
Thanks very much for this! A much better way to plug my NTG-2 straight into my camera.
That wouldn't be a hack, it would be a completely redesigned product. There is only a single mono amp in the unit which really isn't designed to drive headphones.
Best low budget preamp I've seen.
love this hack, could you do a side by side against the juiced link? this lil guy is a kick ass
What would probably be a better "hack" is to cut the cable closer to the jack connector, and not the iRig, and simply replacing the (iPhone) TRRS Jack with a (normal mono jack) TS Jack. This way you can plug the iRig straight into the camera and you don't need to get another cable, further more you could even splice two of these iRigs together into one TRS mini Jack, for stereo audio input or 2 separate audio channels, like a lavalier mic and an boom/ambient mic
Awesome brother! Ordering mine right now!
Hey DJ, did you ever end up hacking the locking Neutrik connector onto the iRig Pre's circuit board? I'm thinking of putting together two of these into a custom enclosure with side-mount cold shoe connector for my EOS-70D rig much like the audio/monitor assembly on the new C300 mkII and want to have the beautiful Neutrik combo connectors.
Why go through all that if you can just use an adapter to get the same results and not need an adapter to use it as with the original configuration. I have no issue with soldering but not for no real benefit. Do you know about the difference of quality compared to the irig pro. The irig pro is about 3 times the price of the irig pre!! That's a huge difference. Would you think it's better to get a Pro or 3 pres? I watched one youtube video on that but the guy only said that the pro sounded better with no details. There could have been many reasons for that. I am not surprised if the pro sound is better but how much better is important, if it is very subtle and maybe it can be compensated for, somehow.
On another note, Shure makes an under $50 dynamic mic called PG48. Do you know anything about it? It's always nice to have a couple of cheap mics around in a pinch or for loud performances where mic quality is buried in the noise. Have fun and thanks for the video.
I am very naive to this. Do you know what is that adapter called to connect camera in? Like what terms should i search on internet ??
It's on my list.
The Rode SC3 TRRS to TRS adaptor is much better quality than the cheap Y adaptor and will do the job. Rode made this adaptor so that their TRRS Lav mic+ for iPhone can be used in the TRS input of DSLR.
Thats pretty slick! Stupid question though, will this work on 5dii?
Yea, youtube has also been randomly unsubscribing people from the channel as well. Since the February update youtube has "cleaned up" about 6,000 subscribers. I get a lot of messages about it.
I'm going to do this! I used to have to record my xlr mics to a different computer and then sync the audio up.
Hey man, Thanks for this video, it was super helpful!!!
Your description says the hack is a "cleaner" option. Do you mean cleaner in terms of cable management, or does using an adapter actually put noise into the audio?
that is a good point, love this idea! I think i am going to get one! maybe i will do some test before hacking.
could you solder in a 1/8" female output instead of just leaving a hole then you would have two outs.
you could listen with one and feed the other to the camera or one to the camera and the other to a zoom h1 or something like that.
Man, I always wanted to say that : You are Amazing. Thank you.
that sucks man, I thought it was odd when I saw this one. I checked to see if you had been gone or something but nope. Don't worry I'll still check out the others ;)
I like the headphone out female jack. Lot cleaner than trying to plug headphones into camera. So... alternate hack is to cut the dumb iPhone plug off and solder a regular 3.5 mm male mic jack in its place. However, I would recommend shrink tube rather than electrical tape to cover.
did it work? i think the regular 3.5mm jack is only trs not trrs like the iphone jack that you can monitor audio.
Works like a champ!! Forget the soldering and Mickey Mouse. Buy a simple $4 "headphone Y splitter" for iPhone/iPad headphones. They have a TRRS male plug. If you want to use those h/phones with a laptop you need stereo 3.5 mm stock TRS plugs. Splitter converts TRRS (female) to headphone + mic jacks (2 x TRS) for laptop. NOW plug the iRig PRE plug (TRRS) into Splitter female. Voile, headphone + mic jacks for camera. Plug your headphones into iRig. No-brainer!
Fantastic info/demo.
Thanks very much for your tutorial,- it saved me a lot of hassle!
you don't need a hack. You should just be able to plug it in with the 3.5mm iPhone jack (TRRS)
Here's my two comments:
1: mounting the irig pre onto the mic stand is NOT an option. You should always keep the unbalanced cable length between the irig pre and the camera as short as possible to avoid picking up hum noise. My advice: Mount the irig pre onto the camera rig always.
2: Regarding the questions about the headphone out in the comment section: The irig pre headphone out can not be used to monitor the microphone signal. I only provides a passthrough for the headphone sognal that comes fron the iphone. Since we don not have an iphone in the setup the headphone plug is dead anyway. (at least that's how my unit seems to work.)
3: (bonus comment) Since we want to keep the unbalanced cable length short (see comment 1) why not just use the supplied cable to connect the irig pre to the camera. The mic signal has to go to the tip while the shaft and rings are connected to ground. It will then work as a mono ts jack which is exactly what we need here.
When you look around at battery operated phantom power boxes, the price ranges from $28 on Aliexpress, to this at $35, to some utterly stupid prices of $1500. I know the circuitry has to include isolation. voltage boost etc, but what gives? What iRig shows to me is that the other makes like Denecke, AKG, etc are just a ripoff. End of rant!
I wonder if the TRRS output is cleaner than the h/p output. Anyways, I think this will do me fine.
Nice review.
look on amazon for the Fiio E3 Headphone Amp. No experience with it... yet... ;) but it does the headphone to headphone thing for you.
Hi onelonedork, I love your video and want to buy the irig for my 5d m2, one question left. How do you control the sound while recording, where do you plug in your headphones? I have to hear what i´m recording. thanks so much!
I haven't seen a video of yours in like 5 months, wasn't showing up in sub box. Good job, youtube
Maybe I'm not paying close enough attention. Which black wire goes with which grouping?
i still don't quite understand why the irig needs an adapter or needs to be modded. why can't you just plug the irig and connect an xlr mic to it?
Hey dj. Can u just clarify why the trrs jack wont work with a, say a 60 d. Would it be better to get an adaptor unit rather than an adaptor and cable. Thanks for the noob vids they r ace.
Yep, all that's posted in the blog.
Can't you just clip the wires off and leave them there without soldering?
Just curious, will this still work without clipping the cable? (If I wanted to test it out with my mikes before cutting the wire?) Really looking for a way to use one of my sony ECM 77B lav mikes for interviews.
The xlr section has enough room just glue a peace of plastic over the empty space and drill a hole for the 3.5mm jack and you should be fine.
Are you sure you need to hack it?
Would you use the splitter cable with the IRigpre or by itself?
Did you see the Tascam IXZ. It has the xlr/jack input. I'am think that i'll buy a tascam. They make good quilty and i like taht it can take line signal too. If i don't hack it because i like to be able to use this for my ipad/iphone what adaptor cabel is it you did use before the hack? It was some kind of Y cabel.. Thans for nice videos
I Just did this mod and all I can say is what a difference this made on my Canon 60D, night and day. It sounds amazing with my AT 835a shotgun very clean with Magic Lantern set to 10db the min.
Without the mod ML would need to be set to 32db gain and even with a good sensitive mic this was not enough and was for from clean with tons of noise, now it works as it should, and I have he option of Phantom Power without spending hundreds. One question did you test how long this will power a mic for using Phantom power and with Phantom Power off?
Thanks for posting your mod.
Hey not bad considering its using the headphone out instead of the output. What happens if you just use the headphone out and leave the other cable as is?
Yes.
Why wouldnt you just use a Nady dmp2 and be able to preamp 2 Xlr mics?
I'm kinda confused what this hack actually does.. if your camera has a 3.5mm input couldn't you just use an xlr to 3.5mm and then plug the output into the camera?
It works great. Thanks a lot !
Can you please tell me what is the expected voltage on the XLR pins when the device is powered on? (Not on +48V which obviously should be 48V).
I am very naive to this. Do you know what is that adapter called to connect camera in? Like what terms should i search on internet ??
Wouldn't just connecting to the headphone out input on the irig pass audio to camera ??
Could you not just clip the wire at the start? instead of opening it?
get a 1/8 inch stereo splitter and a 1/8 inch stereo male to male extension.
After cutting the wire close to the jack, how would I know what wires to connect or is there more soldering to do? Can u help give descriptions? Would radioshack or bestbuy have the TS jack?
I have a Canon HFG30, which has an incredibly bad internal preamp. I was hoping to get rid of the awful hiss it produces (at least when used with a shotgun mic) by purchasing Rode Video Mic Pro and using the +20dB setting on it. Unfortunately the hiss is still audible and I feel like I wasted my money. Could the iRig Pre fix the hiss issue? I'd like to use it with the VMP if possible (using an xlr to 3.5 adapter) or Rode NTG1. Thanks.
You could if you are willing to do some more hacking to add an external headphone , but then you'll have to find a box to stuff everything in.
Just curious, if you tie the wrong black cable, will it still work? I got mi iRig to work but there is quite a bit of hiss. I was wondering if I tied the wrong black cable. Any thoughts? Thanks guys
How is the sound quality when used with a NTG-1 or 2? Or is there no loss in quality?
I tried this and ran it to my GH$, and I get a stuttering sound but is affected by the shutter? When I adjust my shutter the "stutter" either slows down or speeds up? It doesn't appear to be on the recording.
I have a question Could I use this device to power a XLR mic to my laptop that has broken USB ports to record music without a problem do I have to cut wires ect or Can I just Plug device into 3.5 mic jack on side of laptop, Plug xlr mic to device then open recording software please let me know thank you!
Don't put the solder onto the soldering iron and use shrink tube instead of tape!
Man, that is genius! Thanks for the tip!!!
Would it be possible just to remove the jack and change it for a trs one?
Could I not attach the irig Pre black cable into Headset splitter cable then the mic pink plug into the camera 5D mark II ? 2ndly, why do I need the 1/8 inch stereo male to male extension cable for sorry I missed a point here? Thanks.
You got it.
what's the matter if i didnt do the hacking, and proceed by using sa stereo headfon output directly to DSLR or my PC?
What about the cheaper Tascam iXZ?
Just to add another point, instead of Converting the 'Headphone jack to OUTPUT" for camera. Question: Could I not convert the current irig Pre cable to Output straight to camera, Keeping the 'Headphone jack as listening/monitoring for noise'? Can anyone explain please. Thx