Very helpful video. I tacked my filter on my 2008 1.8 focus diesel today. I made sure the fuel tank was full and the engine warmed up as my car is not good at starting cold and I was expecting to crank the engine more than normal to prime the system. The car was also parked downhill to help with priming the fuel line. After removing the black steel filter cover with 2 8mm bolts, I first brushed down the whole top of the filter housing to remove loose dirt. The pipe/hose connector from the filter housing to injection pump was difficult to get off until I realised the outer white tab had to be pushed in and the smaller white central tab pulled out simultaneously to release the coupling. I protected the connector with a food bag. I removed the electrical connector and fuel feed pipe (easy - just squeeze the two white buttons) and removed the whole housing. The housing was filthy and was cleaned externally carefully as not not get dirt into the inlet and outlets. I then drained the unit by opening the light coloured bleed/drain nipple on the base. A bit of black sediment and metal swarf came out. Once drained I undid the main knurled ring with a rubber filter strap and lifted off the top. The filter was filthy...jet black and had done approx 30,000 miles. I always avoid small obscure filling stations in case I end up filling up with rusty water so seeing this amount of dirt was a shock. Perhaps it is a small suspension of particles carried over from the refining process? I found the main sealing ring incorrectly placed on the top of the filter. The new filter (Wix) did not have a small o-ring for the central filtered connection in the box....bear this in mind when buying a replacement filter. I then pulled off the old filter and slid the new one on the centre spigot/outlet making sure the o-ring did not roll up out of its slot. Another reason why the main sealing ring goes under the top flange of the filter is there is a rebate set into the underside of the top flange. I moistened the o-ring with a bit of diesel and placed it on the top of the housing then dropped the top half on and tightened the knurled ring making sure the two arrows on the side lined up. I checked that the drain plug at the base and the priming/venting nipple on the top were closed/tightened as far as possible by hand. I then placed the housing back into the holder on the engine and reconnected the inlet pipe/hose. I then connected a hand bulb pump (Laser brand) like the one in this video with 8mm clear hosing onto the outlet and another longer length of hose to a waste bottle. It took about a minute of pumping to fill the housing and then get a flow of diesel from the housing into a waste bottle. I drew off about half a pint in which no more air bubbles were emerging from the housing. I removed the clear tube and reconnected the injection pump/hose. I then cranked the engine which immediately fired and the stalled. I cranked again for about 10 seconds and the engine fired again and remained running. I left it idling for a minute or two then switched off, replacing all covers and then went for a test drive. One of the reasons for not filling the housing before reassembly was to ensure all diesel got passed through the filter and was therefore 'clean'. I had no clean diesel in a can to use. Hope this little extra guide helps.
Cheers for that, it was indeed helpful. Can I ask - in other videos I've seen people bleed the air from between the filter and the HP fuel pump. Do you feel that that's necessary? Or did you do it, and just not mention it here?
I just change the fuel filter, all I did was remove all pipes and electrical plug, remove the whole filter housing from the engine bay. Took out the old filter and gasket, replaced with new Delphi filter and filled it up with new diesel to the very top, screw top back on, put back in car, attach pipes and electrical plug. I had charged the battery overnight because I run it down doing it the way presented in this video. So everything done, just went and started the car on 3rd attempt and everything is fine now. It is pretty much the same process as changing the fuel filter on a mk3 mondeo. I am happy that's it done after reading all the nightmare, cannot get the car started stories. I did spend yesterday doing it as in the video, pumping out air with vac pump but could not get the car started doing it that way, obviously it works for others. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload a video. :)
Aha, so first the filter is put on the lid and then the seal comes in from below. I did it like you did at the beginning, now it makes sense because when you put the ring on it you twist the seal and air bubbles can form.
Been there done that. Be happy you found the error while you were still home and not out on the road with NO tools except the one between your ear. Boy did I ever feel stupid when I found out I forgot to install the gasket. Great video.
Thank you for your post. I brought myself a ford focus 1.8 2008 diesel and it had a bit of lack of power and juddering, I was driving it like this for some months because I thought a garage will rip me off because it seemed like a tricky fault. I then realised this model uses this fuel filter so automatically I thought it must be very dirty due to never been changed. I purchased a filter for £15 and fitted myself to notice the rubber ring on the old filter had been fitter wrong by a previous owner, like how you did in your video. I had a hose ready but I tried it without the flushing process. Filled the filter with diesel and It took about 4 turn overs with the engine stalling then it started fine. My Focus is now running like a dream. Cheers mate
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, a great help. Your genuine error and the fact that you were honest enough and had the balls to tell us is a credit to you. Absolutely spot on mate. Quality.
just carried out this service and found it easier to attach the pump to the bleed valve, then rather than sucking fuel through I pressurised with diesel from a Jerry can, whilst turning the engine over. once running I closed the bleed valve, and disassembled the rig. Job done.
I’ve been in this trade a long time forget about prime pumps they are messy and don’t always work. The best way and I’ve done this many times and that is to use a small funnel and a piece of fuel hose just pre fill the filter when assembled with diesel until it flows out of the return pipe fit the filter and start up . Job done .
Real happy I came across this video I also made the same error putting the seal in the wrong position ( Ford Galaxy 1.8 ) Also topping up the filter housing with fresh diesel helped got a cheap pump for four quid from Halfords filled the line to the injectors with fuel connected the pipe back to the filter housing and started the engine and car started to run then CUT OUT turned the ignition off waited 30 seconds turned the ignition on and and started the car it fired up again then cut out did the same again and the car started to run without cutting out Took it for a test and runs much better - to that note I changed the filter because the car would sometimes stall in slow traffic sadly it did not cure it but performance is better not had the car very long and trying not to spend silly money trying to cure the problem Word of warning I did not realise the green rubber dust cover on the connector falls off i could not find it anywhere normally they are fixed in some way so at the moment had to fit it without until I can get a replacement cover thanks for showing us the error it’s been of great assistance to me
Did you figure out why it was stalling in slow traffic as my 1.8 galaxy is doing the same thing and I was hoping changing the fuel filter would cure it but no such luck! Did you figure it out by any chance?
@@fgcvhhbvjhbj no never found out what it was I no longer own the Galaxy but a family member who has it uses it daily with no issue guess the car just did not like me May have been a slight blockage and with use its just gone Found it cleared a bit when a garage did a routine service on it But it was very random fault I will ask the person again who has it and will reply back
@@markjones2770 Thanks Mark, that'd be great as it's very annoying and potentially dangerous when I'm going around a bend! Haha, hopefully it sorts it's self out too!
@@fgcvhhbvjhbj apparently it still does the random stalling thing she forgot to tell me It could be the Egr valve needs cleaning or something to do with a sensor located at the front of the engine near the octopus of pipes at the fuel rail forget what the sensor is called it gets gunked up with oil and muck from the engine Rember a garage telling me about it but Could never find the sensor on my galaxy each one is different I think
I maked the same mistake OMG! I think you helped me out here. I needed to leave the car at my work because i could start it anymore. The wierd thing was only that after one hour trying it was runing good for like 15 min. Before i drived away it stopt running and was not starting at hole anymore. Can’t wait to try it out tomorrow👍🏻
Thank you for this video I did the very same put the o ring on top and 2 days later car would not start saw your video and 15 mins later all good . Thank you for the help
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
I just replaced my fuel filter on a ford mondeo 1,8 tdci 125 hp, year model 2010 and I would like to share my experience with y'all. No needed to prime. Well after turning off the car, disconnect all the pipes and the electrical connector , I removed the whole black pan thing out, opened it up . remove the filter , clean up the pan , fill it up alllllll the wayyyyy with new fuel-diesel, insert the new filter with the gasket the way you corrected it, close the lid, unscrew the valve on the top of the lid and again fill some more fuel until is puring out, close the valve , clean the pan from the fuel , carefully install it back to the car with the two pipes and the elect connector and after that one more secret: turn the ignition key without trying to turn on the car wait 20-30 sec , repeat it this 3-4 times , and after this finally turn on the car and drive or leave the car on for at least five minutes . Again that was my experience and worked perfectly without trying to prime at all. Greetings from Europe to you and your beautiful- magnificent country , New Zealand!
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences! The key is to get any air out so fill it up as much as you can. A question for you, what does turning the key on and leaving it for 20-30 seconds do? There's no electric fuel pump and the engine has to be turning for the direct injection pump to be pumping so I have never understood the benefit of doing it. Cheers!
You've been lucky then , these particular fuel systems are very sensitive to any air at all in the system and will stop at the drop of a hat . 99% of the time they need to be bled properly
Hello Already found answer for my question. Ford 1,8 TDCI uses Delphi fuel filter with simple heating system and no ultrasonic (air presence) and no high resistance ( watter) measurement . Simple heating is done by thermal switch and thermo resistors aprox 1,5 Ohm which each one makes 30 Watts of heating situated between two aluminium plates on the top chamber of the filter body. In case of need its possible to equipp max 3 button thermo resistors (approx 100 Watts) to the head of the filter, what makes significant heat capability ... Fuel Heating could be disconnected without any problems and moved to proper position in case of replacing 4 pipes input fuel filter with electric fuel circulation ( no lifting losses ) ... Fuse F14 15A box above the transmition.
I got it done but it was a complete bitch to bleed. I fitted the gasket the correct way first time and primed it really well. It started straight away like yours did and then stalled. After scratching my head I bled the system again and connected it up to the other diesel line like you did and squeezed it into that. I had to repeat this process about 5 times which I found strange but I got there in the end and the car runs fine. Another thing that was weird. The filter I got in my local parts store was a Wix filter. It did not come with the small O ring.
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
Take the whole thing off and change the filter on the bench. The priming tool goes on the other side of the filter so you draw fuel from the tank and push it thro the filter then you can leave it on while cranking and give it a few more squeezes if necessary
When you fit the new filter the gasket has to go on the bottom. But however the pump should be connected on the fuel supply line for the filter (thich black line on the right with a black cap). The other end of the pump should go on the tube to connect the fuel filter supply line. The arrow should point towards the fuel filter. Next you should connect a clear tube on the bleeder screw and unscrew it loose (make sure you catch it in a can with the other end of the tube). You should pump until clear diesel flows through the tube of the bleeder screw without air. Important to tighten the bleeder screw just finger tight. This is the proper way ford manual describes fuel filter change on a 1.8 tdci and has fixed our problem.
The diesel filter I used to have on our Silverado was a pain. you could easily pinch the gasket and not know it. The motor could run for hours till it died. It was something that you had to be careful of.
Thanks Badger, I'm going to have to try this after leaving my mondeo since lockdown began in March in UK. Fuel systems seems to have dried up, and the pump won't prime.
Easier way to bleed it is to unplug the wiring on the top of the filter housing, then lift the whole assembly out. There is a little valve on the bottom that unscrews and has a spout on it that you connect a pipe to. This can then be used to suck the air out with it upside down, and then screwed shut once done. I've just spent the last couple of hours trying this without a hand pump, so I know it works.
+Andy Moore cheers for the tip. There's a few different ways to get this done. Next time round I'll show the procedure from the Ford service manual. Cheers!
hi cheers for the vid ,i got my mk2 in oct its run no problem but every now and then it loses power anyways i decided to put new filters in,air fuel and pollen ..when i fitted the fuel filter guess what....the one fitted had the gasket on the top...this has been the cause of the power loss...like a new car now the last service had been in 2011 by a dealer...goes to show so thanks for the mistake you made as i would never of known... also i had no need to prime the system i changed the filter topped it up and started no problem. cheers again
+garry leask fantastic, glad you fixed your issue and glad I could show you how not to do it! Sometimes you get lucky with bleeding but generally I find you need to so worth having a pump available. The other thing that really helps the 1.8 is an EGR blanking plate. Runs much smoother and less jerky at low revs. Cheers!
Thank you for your video. I made the same mistake. I battled with my car after changing the fuel filter and had to tow start it to get it going. Didn't run right. I came across your video put the seal where it should be and bleed it up and it started after 3 or 4 seconds of cranking.
Excellent video and great advice. Could not get it to bleed properly using bleed nipple on top of filter, used advice given here and worked a treat. Cheers.
+Stuart Henderson awesome, glad I could help out. Definitely one of the harder cars to bleed. The factory procedure using the bleed nipple seems really complicated, I might make a video on that method next time I change the filter to show the difference. Cheers!
Sadly I did what you said and put the seal on the filter but when I tried to to pump the diesel through it would not work, so I change it back and put the seal on top of filter and within two pumps the fuel was through.
Do you happen to remember the hose size on the pump please? I am looking to buy one but they come in 8mm and 10mm. Last thing I want is to get the filter off only to find the pump doesn't fit. :-))
Learn from my mistakes so you don't make them too! I can't remember what size it was but I would say closer to 8mm than 10. My pump came without hose and I just used clear tubing I had lying around
All you need to do is fill the fuel filter full with diesel, get a turkey baster push as much fuel down both inlet & outlet fuel lines & it will start 5 seconds after , don’t draw fuel out of filter housing get as much in as possible just got mine started this way been messing about for 2 hours
Nice work mate. Mine hadn't been done for 65kkm and was pitch black. Not that the car was performing poorly. Interesting note: the filter I removed (mecafilter) DID have the O ring on top!?! The one I replaced it with (Valeo), could only be underneath. Interesting note 2: I topped off the fuel lines and the filter housing once assembled with a small syringe. Motor started first crank... Beginners luck!
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
Could you show all your steps. I think you forget to tell that you poured some fuel into fuel filter, fuel pipe and primer before priming because primer cannot prime air as you can see in you first attempt. I found another way of getting air out and it involves air to be sacked through small bleeding valve using 10ml seringe and pipe inserted into it instead of piston. I can make video if someone needs.
I did this job again recently but having issues this time. Changed the filter and bled the system and it fired up no problem and ran good for a few days and then one morning it started and then just shut off. It wouldn't start again so I had to get the loan of my brother's car for the day as luckily he was off. When I got home I bled the system again and fired up and ran fine for another 2 or 3 days when same issues. It started on evening (after driving fine the entire day) and just suddenly shut off. I am going to take the filter housing out tomorrow and open it up and have a good look inside. I think there is air slowly getting into the system but I just don't know where. Could be the housing sealing ring (the thing you tighten) or maybe my rubber o ring on the filter has no seated properly. Anyway it is bugging me because there is nothing worse than having an unreliable car.
@@Badgertronix The filter is a ufi brand. We had a good look at it today and noticed that the seal that the filter goes through was not sitting perfectly central. Hopefully this was the cause. It was very hard to bleed then which is seemingly a good thing. When there was a leak it was easy to bleed 😂
Spent ages looking for a mondeo 1.8 specific video but pretty much looks like its the same engine to a focus. I foolishly thought I'd get away without having to prime the system... alas I was wrong and now its a bicycle ride to the hardware store tomorrow to get the pump xD Needless to say Ive only just bought the car and the fuel filter is absolutley black! cant believe it. Thanks for the video though, very helpful, before I go theres a 3rd little valve on the top of the fuel filter housing (made of plastic) what would that be for?
There is a factory bleeding sequence using that bleeder on the top of the filter. I think someone documented the procedure in the comments somewhere. I've never used it. Good luck!
I’ve got a MK4 Mondeo 1.8 TDCI, looks exactly the same setup to the Focus you’re working on. Just wondering, I’m a novice and obviously I want my car running properly again and not to have it sitting outside my house until I can arrange Greenflag to tow it. Just following the video over like 4-5 times, you know when you got the gasket in the right place, where were you pumping the diesel to? As I didn’t see the bucket or whatever it was that you were using? Thanks.
Good clip thanks. One question, when u were bleeding it the first time before u realised about the gasket. You were bleeding it into a tin can but after were u bleeding it back through the disconnected return hose? Thanks again.
Changed the fuel filter my dads Focus the other week, didn't have the primer so I towed him around the block a few times because his battery died with trying to start the car and eventually it started, you could tell air was still in the system but after a bit of spirited driving for 15 minutes it was fine.
From what I've experienced the seal should be ABOVE the filter , as you had it in the first place ,not BELOW, basically as there is a slight recess in the float bowl for the filter to sit in . I don't know why you had so much air , possibly not seated correctly or tightened sufficiently . Bleeding is critical on these engines , if I have problems I pull the fuel through the main injector pump by connecting your hand pump to the red fuel clip on the return pipe just above the fuel pump , that way there is no way for air to get in between pump and filter when connecting and disconnecting fuel lines . Good video though
+tripleMacca thanks for dropping by and commenting. According to the Ford factory manual the seal should be below the filter and that works for me! I have had problems with certain brands of filter though, the updated Mahle version I couldn't get to bleed no matter what I did. Cheers!
You would expect the factory manual to be right so maybe the one's I have changed have been put in wrong , I normally put something back the way it was unless it is blatantly wrong . If a car comes to me running then I have to assume fitting it the same way means it should go away running , maybe I've been lucky ;-)
+tripleMacca it could be down to the differences between certain brands of filter. I presume I would have put it on the way I took it off on this one but no way it was going to work. I replaced a Ford filter with a Mann one. Who knows... Thanks for your comments, always good to hear the voice of experience
Hi there, Thanks a mill for this super helpful video, I'll be tackling it as soon as some transparent hose shows up for my hand pump. I have a question - what's your opinion on bleeding the fuel line between the filter and the HP fuel pump? I've seen other videos where they do it, but you didn't do it here. Just wondering if you had forgotten, or if it was a deliberate decision, or if you did it but didn't show it. Obviously the engine started up for you, so your way works, but because I've seen it done bothe ways, I'm a little unsure. Please and thanks, from Scotland.
No es necesario purgar de esa manera una ves que cambias el filtro se tiene que poner en contacto el auto durante 5 segundos ... Lo tiene que hacer 5 beses. Es por qué el auto tiene bomba eléctrica en el tanque, y la bomba del motor es tiene auto despurgue
Great video. My filter was way worse. Looked like it's never been changed. Just wondering. Have you changed the PCV valve on this engine? I'm struggling to find any information/videos on how to do it. I can only find videos on the petrol engine. Cheers
I need to do this, but obviously worried about messing it up. Ive had the car 7 years, 68k - 114k, not changed fuel filter, seems no problems. Ive even bought the bleeding kit from ebay, £20. what are your thoughts please, i once read if its working ok, leave it alone
@@Badgertronix yes thanks I've done it now with the Mann filter, there was a Fram filter, with a metal top, and the seal on top! I also struggled with the connector on the outflow pipe, it was damaged, now held fast with a cable ties. I also finished bleeding using the clutch spray in the intake, after using a Laser priming bulb. The engine is now more responsive. Thanks for your video.
I did the exact same thing. I couldn't start my car .even tried putting easy start in manifold. In the end I had to get the car towed away to mecahnic and had to pay towman and mecahnic . Hard lesson learnt
can any one tell me what causes a ford tdci to loose power when boating or driving over 50 mph then the engine starts to go into limp mode till the ignition key needs to be turnd off and on to drive normal it looses power up hill very often
It must set a fault code when it does that. That will point you in the right direction. Could be injectors, turbo, boost leak or anything else. Some more diagnostics required
Ahhh. Had a nightmare with this all day! Followed this video exactly on my 1.8 tdci s max. Used a pump to prime the system after filling the housing to the brim. Car won't start. Completely baffled! Any ideas what I could try to fix this?
They can be really hard to bleed but sounds like you were doing it the right way. This is the documented procedure: Using a hand-held vacuum pump 1 Depress the release tabs and disconnect the fuel outlet hose from the fuel filter. 2 Connect the vacuum pump pipe to the outlet on the filter, and continue to pull a vacuum until bubble-free fuel emerges from the hose. 3 Reconnect the fuel hose. 4 Operate the starter motor and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Caution: Do not operate. the starter motor for more than 10 seconds, then wait 30 seconds before trying again. 5 Stop the engine. Wipe up any fuel spillage, and refit the engine cover.
When you fit the new filter the gasket has to go on the bottom. But however the pump should be connected on the fuel supply line for the filter (thich black line on the right with a black cap). The other end of the pump should go on the tube to connect the fuel filter supply line. The arrow should point towards the fuel filter. Next you should connect a clear tube on the bleeder screw and unscrew it loose (make sure you catch it in a can with the other end of the tube). You should pump until clear diesel flows through the tube of the bleeder screw without air. Important to tighten the bleeder screw just finger tight.
I replaced the filter 1589089 and 5.5 ltrs dctf wssm2c936 in my focus tdci. Shifting still shudders on take-off during initial run but lessens eventually but sliding occurs when i manually shift from 4-6th gears. Any idea what's going on?
Whats the total mileage on that Focus badger? Just asking because i don't know anyone who has gotten more than 90,000 miles out of one of those 1.8's. My boss had his go to the scrap at 67K (the DMF was going, but the cabin got damp and shorted out the power seats and caused gremlins). One of the engineers i work with scraped his at 72k because it needed £8000 worth of work doing to the engine plus clutch/dmf plus suspension work. A contractor i use spent £3700 at 80k to get another 10k out of it before he scrapped it. I have found the ford diesels really disappointing. I would like to own a diesel because i do so many miles. But most of my mechanical knowledge is on petrols.
+zoidberg444 100,000 miles and all I've needed is a new intercooler because the old one got holed. That's interesting, can't say I've heard too many horror stories about them. The 1.8 dates from the 70s and has been pretty well refined. No DPF, EGR bypassed, not much to go wrong. The dual mass flywheel will go at some stage but that's a common issue on most new diesels. The only other issue on these is the cambelt that runs in oil for the diesel pump. I'll change that to a chain once the warranty runs out. Touch wood, but this is the most reliable car I've ever owned.
Badgertronix You know i wonder if the regs for diesels in NZ are different to the UK. Because I've heard the JDM diesels are best but get lower MPG/worse emissions but do actually last quite well compared to European market diesels because the engines aren't as stressed in the way they are tuned. I literally don't know anyone who has a good word for Ford diesels. The petrol's are ok i suppose. I literally can't think of a modern diesel engine i haven't heard horror stories about. The best are probably the Honda ones, the Toyota diesels are ok. But by Toyota standards are huge problems for them with all sorts of warranty work. Our office had one of our 1.4 Yaris blow up. Needed a new engine under warranty. The DPF's are an absolute nightmare. I know people who have had huge bills for them on BMW's, VAG's, Nissans and Fords. A friend of mine got his wife a Ford Kuga and the DPF failed in it after 3 years. Someone else i used to work with had the DPF on his 118D fail recently. I told him not to buy the bloody thing! The bills are huge. Like £2-3K! You know the BMW N47 engines have chain driven high pressure pumps and the chains snap all the time on them. Happened to a friend of mine 08 520D/87k. From what i read the chains didn't cope with the vibrations from the high pressure pump very well.
Petrol will be the way to go in the future. All the emissions kit is killing the diesel market. Although aftermarket DPFs are getting common. I've had plenty of diesels over the years and not had too many issues. The 200,000 mile Passat I sold in 2007 only got scrapped around 2 years ago with who knows how many miles on it.
+Badgertronix That wouldn't have had the 1.9 engine would it? Most of the long lived diesels i know are old VAG 1.9's and older Peugeots. A mate of mine has a 17 year old 1.9 Golf. It's off the road at the moment because the front suspension, engine mounts, radiator, water pump are all shot and the exhaust and clutch are on their last legs and it needs some intervention for rust and the braking system has some problems and it needs some new coolant hoses. But the engine purrs like a kitten at 340k! Although apparently VAG changed the design on the 1.9 and its not as good. I always find VW's are excellent vehicles, they are often let down by silly things due to penny pinching. I know a few people who got 250k + out of landrover td5's.
Смотрел и плакал...абсолютно всё было сделано не правильно. От начала и до конца. Я еще удивился как автор так быстро запустил мотор после того, как завоздушил систему. Мне как то раз говноплотники в автосервисе (официальный дилер) так же прокладку поставили сверху фильтра. Удивляюсь, как автомобиль мой еще ездил и заводился. Сейчас всё делаю сам.
Very helpful video. I tacked my filter on my 2008 1.8 focus diesel today. I made sure the fuel tank was full and the engine warmed up as my car is not good at starting cold and I was expecting to crank the engine more than normal to prime the system. The car was also parked downhill to help with priming the fuel line.
After removing the black steel filter cover with 2 8mm bolts, I first brushed down the whole top of the filter housing to remove loose dirt. The pipe/hose connector from the filter housing to injection pump was difficult to get off until I realised the outer white tab had to be pushed in and the smaller white central tab pulled out simultaneously to release the coupling. I protected the connector with a food bag. I removed the electrical connector and fuel feed pipe (easy - just squeeze the two white buttons) and removed the whole housing. The housing was filthy and was cleaned externally carefully as not not get dirt into the inlet and outlets. I then drained the unit by opening the light coloured bleed/drain nipple on the base. A bit of black sediment and metal swarf came out.
Once drained I undid the main knurled ring with a rubber filter strap and lifted off the top. The filter was filthy...jet black and had done approx 30,000 miles. I always avoid small obscure filling stations in case I end up filling up with rusty water so seeing this amount of dirt was a shock. Perhaps it is a small suspension of particles carried over from the refining process? I found the main sealing ring incorrectly placed on the top of the filter. The new filter (Wix) did not have a small o-ring for the central filtered connection in the box....bear this in mind when buying a replacement filter. I then pulled off the old filter and slid the new one on the centre spigot/outlet making sure the o-ring did not roll up out of its slot.
Another reason why the main sealing ring goes under the top flange of the filter is there is a rebate set into the underside of the top flange. I moistened the o-ring with a bit of diesel and placed it on the top of the housing then dropped the top half on and tightened the knurled ring making sure the two arrows on the side lined up.
I checked that the drain plug at the base and the priming/venting nipple on the top were closed/tightened as far as possible by hand. I then placed the housing back into the holder on the engine and reconnected the inlet pipe/hose. I then connected a hand bulb pump (Laser brand) like the one in this video with 8mm clear hosing onto the outlet and another longer length of hose to a waste bottle. It took about a minute of pumping to fill the housing and then get a flow of diesel from the housing into a waste bottle. I drew off about half a pint in which no more air bubbles were emerging from the housing. I removed the clear tube and reconnected the injection pump/hose. I then cranked the engine which immediately fired and the stalled. I cranked again for about 10 seconds and the engine fired again and remained running. I left it idling for a minute or two then switched off, replacing all covers and then went for a test drive.
One of the reasons for not filling the housing before reassembly was to ensure all diesel got passed through the filter and was therefore 'clean'. I had no clean diesel in a can to use. Hope this little extra guide helps.
Cheers for that, it was indeed helpful. Can I ask - in other videos I've seen people bleed the air from between the filter and the HP fuel pump. Do you feel that that's necessary? Or did you do it, and just not mention it here?
I just change the fuel filter, all I did was remove all pipes and electrical plug, remove the whole filter housing from the engine bay. Took out the old filter and gasket, replaced with new Delphi filter and filled it up with new diesel to the very top, screw top back on, put back in car, attach pipes and electrical plug. I had charged the battery overnight because I run it down doing it the way presented in this video. So everything done, just went and started the car on 3rd attempt and everything is fine now. It is pretty much the same process as changing the fuel filter on a mk3 mondeo. I am happy that's it done after reading all the nightmare, cannot get the car started stories. I did spend yesterday doing it as in the video, pumping out air with vac pump but could not get the car started doing it that way, obviously it works for others. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload a video. :)
I'm impressed that this guy had the balls to show his error on youtube, good for you man, too many people wouldn't want to do that ...bravo
+Gen Me thanks! More than happy to share my mistakes so people can learn from them too.
Aha, so first the filter is put on the lid and then the seal comes in from below. I did it like you did at the beginning, now it makes sense because when you put the ring on it you twist the seal and air bubbles can form.
Been there done that. Be happy you found the error while you were still home and not out on the road with NO tools except the one between your ear. Boy did I ever feel stupid when I found out I forgot to install the gasket. Great video.
It's always these simple jobs that turn to custard! I feel your pain, been there too. Cheers!
Thank you for your post. I brought myself a ford focus 1.8 2008 diesel and it had a bit of lack of power and juddering, I was driving it like this for some months because I thought a garage will rip me off because it seemed like a tricky fault. I then realised this model uses this fuel filter so automatically I thought it must be very dirty due to never been changed. I purchased a filter for £15 and fitted myself to notice the rubber ring on the old filter had been fitter wrong by a previous owner, like how you did in your video. I had a hose ready but I tried it without the flushing process. Filled the filter with diesel and It took about 4 turn overs with the engine stalling then it started fine. My Focus is now running like a dream. Cheers mate
Thanks for your information vince
4 years later and this video still saved me time and money. Thank you!
Awesome!
Just done mine, took a while to prime the diesel but pretty straight forward. Wouldn't of done It without this video so thank you!
Tx for advice, you solved my problem, I had put the gasket in the wrong place
Thank you for taking the time to do this video, a great help. Your genuine error and the fact that you were honest enough and had the balls to tell us is a credit to you. Absolutely spot on mate. Quality.
Glad it was helpful!
just carried out this service and found it easier to attach the pump to the bleed valve, then rather than sucking fuel through I pressurised with diesel from a Jerry can, whilst turning the engine over. once running I closed the bleed valve, and disassembled the rig. Job done.
+Stewart Jayes awesome. As long as you get the air out and don't run the pump dry it's all good. Cheers!
So that's what I'm doing wrong, thanks for putting this video out and learning from our shared mistake.
It was good that you identified the issue while at home with tools near by. This was a good video with real problems to overcome. I like it.
Thanks Wyatt. Turned into a much more worthwhile video with problems to overcome. Cheers!
I’ve been in this trade a long time forget about prime pumps they are messy and don’t always work. The best way and I’ve done this many times and that is to use a small funnel and a piece of fuel hose just pre fill the filter when assembled with diesel until it flows out of the return pipe fit the filter and start up . Job done .
Real happy I came across this video I also made the same error putting the seal in the wrong position
( Ford Galaxy 1.8 ) Also topping up the filter housing with fresh diesel helped got a cheap pump for four quid from Halfords filled the line to the injectors with fuel connected the pipe back to the filter housing and started the engine and car started to run then CUT OUT turned the ignition off waited 30 seconds turned the ignition on and and started the car it fired up again then cut out did the same again and the car started to run without cutting out
Took it for a test and runs much better - to that note I changed the filter because the car would sometimes stall in slow traffic sadly it did not cure it but performance is better not had the car very long and trying not to spend silly money trying to cure the problem
Word of warning I did not realise the green rubber dust cover on the connector falls off i could not find it anywhere normally they are fixed in some way so at the moment had to fit it without until I can get a replacement cover thanks for showing us the error it’s been of great assistance to me
Did you figure out why it was stalling in slow traffic as my 1.8 galaxy is doing the same thing and I was hoping changing the fuel filter would cure it but no such luck! Did you figure it out by any chance?
@@fgcvhhbvjhbj no never found out what it was
I no longer own the Galaxy but a family member who has it uses it daily with no issue guess the car just did not like me
May have been a slight blockage and with use its just gone
Found it cleared a bit when a garage did a routine service on it
But it was very random fault I will ask the person again who has it and will reply back
@@markjones2770 Thanks Mark, that'd be great as it's very annoying and potentially dangerous when I'm going around a bend! Haha, hopefully it sorts it's self out too!
@@fgcvhhbvjhbj apparently it still does the random stalling thing she forgot to tell me
It could be the Egr valve needs cleaning or something to do with a sensor located at the front of the engine near the octopus of pipes at the fuel rail forget what the sensor is called it gets gunked up with oil and muck from the engine
Rember a garage telling me about it but Could never find the sensor on my galaxy each one is different I think
@@markjones2770 Thanks mate. I'll give the EGR valve a clean and hope for the best 👍 thanks for checking
Richard thank you, I run my TDCi, the right place od the "gasket" was brillant !!! Now I can go for holidays.
Best for you and you family.
+Krzysztof Duklas fantastic! Take care and thanks for watching
I maked the same mistake OMG! I think you helped me out here. I needed to leave the car at my work because i could start it anymore. The wierd thing was only that after one hour trying it was runing good for like 15 min. Before i drived away it stopt running and was not starting at hole anymore. Can’t wait to try it out tomorrow👍🏻
Thank you for this video I did the very same put the o ring on top and 2 days later car would not start saw your video and 15 mins later all good .
Thank you for the help
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
I like the fact you showed us your mess up and the reason behind it. Helped me learn not to make the same mistake. Good video! 😀
Thanks for watching. I make sure i include the mistakes so nobody else needs to make them. Cheers
Cheers, I did the same thing yesterday and your video solved the problem! Very easy mistake to make.
Glad I could help! Cheers
That was brilliant, he even showed his errors, brilliant
thanks for watching!
I just replaced my fuel filter on a ford mondeo 1,8 tdci 125 hp, year model 2010 and I would like to share my experience with y'all. No needed to prime. Well after turning off the car, disconnect all the pipes and the electrical connector , I removed the whole black pan thing out, opened it up . remove the filter , clean up the pan , fill it up alllllll the wayyyyy with new fuel-diesel, insert the new filter with the gasket the way you corrected it, close the lid, unscrew the valve on the top of the lid and again fill some more fuel until is puring out, close the valve , clean the pan from the fuel , carefully install it back to the car with the two pipes and the elect connector and after that one more secret: turn the ignition key without trying to turn on the car wait 20-30 sec , repeat it this 3-4 times , and after this finally turn on the car and drive or leave the car on for at least five minutes . Again that was my experience and worked perfectly without trying to prime at all. Greetings from Europe to you and your beautiful- magnificent country , New Zealand!
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences! The key is to get any air out so fill it up as much as you can. A question for you, what does turning the key on and leaving it for 20-30 seconds do? There's no electric fuel pump and the engine has to be turning for the direct injection pump to be pumping so I have never understood the benefit of doing it. Cheers!
You've been lucky then , these particular fuel systems are very sensitive to any air at all in the system and will stop at the drop of a hat . 99% of the time they need to be bled properly
Hello
Already found answer for my question. Ford 1,8 TDCI uses Delphi fuel filter
with simple heating system and no ultrasonic (air presence)
and no high resistance ( watter) measurement .
Simple heating is done by thermal switch and thermo resistors aprox 1,5 Ohm
which each one makes 30 Watts of heating situated between two aluminium plates
on the top chamber of the filter body.
In case of need its possible to equipp max 3 button thermo resistors
(approx 100 Watts) to the head of the filter, what makes significant heat capability ...
Fuel Heating could be disconnected without any problems
and moved to proper position in case of replacing 4 pipes input fuel filter
with electric fuel circulation ( no lifting losses ) ... Fuse F14 15A box above the transmition.
I bet a lot of people might do it like that but it's good to show the resolve. 👍👍
+STEVE ROB that's what I thought. Pretty easy to screw the pooch on this one.
Good video mate i follow all your jobs then repeat them on my 09 tdci mondeo 1.8 zetec. Greetings from ireland
Very good. I will be doing this job tomorrow on my new (new to me) mondeo, along with all other filters and new oil. Thanks.
+Mr.Mister awesome, enjoy your new car. Thanks for watching!
I got it done but it was a complete bitch to bleed. I fitted the gasket the correct way first time and primed it really well. It started straight away like yours did and then stalled. After scratching my head I bled the system again and connected it up to the other diesel line like you did and squeezed it into that. I had to repeat this process about 5 times which I found strange but I got there in the end and the car runs fine. Another thing that was weird. The filter I got in my local parts store was a Wix filter. It did not come with the small O ring.
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
A big thank you for the video I also put the gasket on top
Great video. We all learn by our mistakes and we ALL make em. Cheers.
thanks
Hi mate, thanks very much for the video, I did the same mistake as you and put the gasket on the top, seemed to fit better on top!
Take the whole thing off and change the filter on the bench. The priming tool goes on the other side of the filter so you draw fuel from the tank and push it thro the filter then you can leave it on while cranking and give it a few more squeezes if necessary
Great that you found out what was wrong!
Great video.....the error will help me avoid doing same so thanks for leaving it in good work!
When you fit the new filter the gasket has to go on the bottom. But however the pump should be connected on the fuel supply line for the filter (thich black line on the right with a black cap). The other end of the pump should go on the tube to connect the fuel filter supply line. The arrow should point towards the fuel filter. Next you should connect a clear tube on the bleeder screw and unscrew it loose (make sure you catch it in a can with the other end of the tube). You should pump until clear diesel flows through the tube of the bleeder screw without air. Important to tighten the bleeder screw just finger tight. This is the proper way ford manual describes fuel filter change on a 1.8 tdci and has fixed our problem.
The diesel filter I used to have on our Silverado was a pain. you could easily pinch the gasket and not know it. The motor could run for hours till it died. It was something that you had to be careful of.
That would be a pain in the bum. These modern diesels can cause a few headaches
Thanks Badger, I'm going to have to try this after leaving my mondeo since lockdown began in March in UK. Fuel systems seems to have dried up, and the pump won't prime.
Did it work?
Easier way to bleed it is to unplug the wiring on the top of the filter housing, then lift the whole assembly out. There is a little valve on the bottom that unscrews and has a spout on it that you connect a pipe to. This can then be used to suck the air out with it upside down, and then screwed shut once done. I've just spent the last couple of hours trying this without a hand pump, so I know it works.
+Andy Moore cheers for the tip. There's a few different ways to get this done. Next time round I'll show the procedure from the Ford service manual. Cheers!
hi cheers for the vid ,i got my mk2 in oct its run no problem but every now and then it loses power anyways i decided to put new filters in,air fuel and pollen ..when i fitted the fuel filter guess what....the one fitted had the gasket on the top...this has been the cause of the power loss...like a new car now the last service had been in 2011 by a dealer...goes to show so thanks for the mistake you made as i would never of known...
also i had no need to prime the system i changed the filter topped it up and started no problem.
cheers again
+garry leask fantastic, glad you fixed your issue and glad I could show you how not to do it! Sometimes you get lucky with bleeding but generally I find you need to so worth having a pump available.
The other thing that really helps the 1.8 is an EGR blanking plate. Runs much smoother and less jerky at low revs.
Cheers!
Thank you for your video. I made the same mistake. I battled with my car after changing the fuel filter and had to tow start it to get it going. Didn't run right. I came across your video put the seal where it should be and bleed it up and it started after 3 or 4 seconds of cranking.
awesome, glad I could help!
Very helpful and informative video. Thanks for posting.
+Richard King glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
great video, great explanation sir you´ve won a follower i´m up to change filters and stuff of my ford Focus. Thank you so much
+Haters Gonna Hate thanks for watching! The Focus is a great car, have fun. Cheers!
maybe do you have a video of changing the coolant????
Excellent video and great advice. Could not get it to bleed properly using bleed nipple on top of filter, used advice given here and worked a treat. Cheers.
+Stuart Henderson awesome, glad I could help out. Definitely one of the harder cars to bleed. The factory procedure using the bleed nipple seems really complicated, I might make a video on that method next time I change the filter to show the difference. Cheers!
Thankyou for your thorough vid of replacing filter' mistakes n all awsome mate
thanks for watching :) I'm sure I won't be the only one making the mistake so happy to share
I didn't have to no bleeding system. I just fill up the filter housing with fuel and start the sucker.
Junior wanted to get in on the action from the sounds of it! I've reinstalled many parts twice over the years!
ah yes, he has to be part of everything.
Sadly I did what you said and put the seal on the filter but when I tried to to pump the diesel through it would not work, so I change it back and put the seal on top of filter and within two pumps the fuel was through.
Lots of respect for the explanation though 👏
Thanks for posting this, it's only through making mistakes that we can learn new things! Great job! :-)
Do you happen to remember the hose size on the pump please? I am looking to buy one but they come in 8mm and 10mm. Last thing I want is to get the filter off only to find the pump doesn't fit. :-))
Learn from my mistakes so you don't make them too! I can't remember what size it was but I would say closer to 8mm than 10. My pump came without hose and I just used clear tubing I had lying around
Thanks for getting back to me, I will order the part and do the job hopefully over the weekend. Thanks again for your help! Ken
All you need to do is fill the fuel filter full with diesel, get a turkey baster push as much fuel down both inlet & outlet fuel lines & it will start 5 seconds after , don’t draw fuel out of filter housing get as much in as possible just got mine started this way been messing about for 2 hours
Nice work mate. Mine hadn't been done for 65kkm and was pitch black. Not that the car was performing poorly.
Interesting note: the filter I removed (mecafilter) DID have the O ring on top!?! The one I replaced it with (Valeo), could only be underneath.
Interesting note 2: I topped off the fuel lines and the filter housing once assembled with a small syringe. Motor started first crank... Beginners luck!
Same thing happened to my ford Smax 1.8 tdci. I had replace the whole head due to camshaft snaped. So i fixed all that but now I am facing an other problem which I can not get the car to start. The fuel pressure is too low or there might be expensive air in the system. I have cracked open all the injector nuts to see if there are any bubbles but injector number 1 and two do dribble number 3 and 4 are completely dry can someone help. Kind regards.
Could you show all your steps. I think you forget to tell that you poured some fuel into fuel filter, fuel pipe and primer before priming because primer cannot prime air as you can see in you first attempt. I found another way of getting air out and it involves air to be sacked through small bleeding valve using 10ml seringe and pipe inserted into it instead of piston. I can make video if someone needs.
It's not a DIY video. Just showing you what problem I had
I did this job again recently but having issues this time. Changed the filter and bled the system and it fired up no problem and ran good for a few days and then one morning it started and then just shut off. It wouldn't start again so I had to get the loan of my brother's car for the day as luckily he was off. When I got home I bled the system again and fired up and ran fine for another 2 or 3 days when same issues. It started on evening (after driving fine the entire day) and just suddenly shut off. I am going to take the filter housing out tomorrow and open it up and have a good look inside. I think there is air slowly getting into the system but I just don't know where. Could be the housing sealing ring (the thing you tighten) or maybe my rubber o ring on the filter has no seated properly. Anyway it is bugging me because there is nothing worse than having an unreliable car.
I had problems with certain brands of filters being a pig to bleed. What filter are you using? Certainly sounds like a slow leak 😩
@@Badgertronix The filter is a ufi brand. We had a good look at it today and noticed that the seal that the filter goes through was not sitting perfectly central. Hopefully this was the cause. It was very hard to bleed then which is seemingly a good thing. When there was a leak it was easy to bleed 😂
Spent ages looking for a mondeo 1.8 specific video but pretty much looks like its the same engine to a focus. I foolishly thought I'd get away without having to prime the system... alas I was wrong and now its a bicycle ride to the hardware store tomorrow to get the pump xD
Needless to say Ive only just bought the car and the fuel filter is absolutley black! cant believe it.
Thanks for the video though, very helpful, before I go theres a 3rd little valve on the top of the fuel filter housing (made of plastic) what would that be for?
There is a factory bleeding sequence using that bleeder on the top of the filter. I think someone documented the procedure in the comments somewhere. I've never used it. Good luck!
I’ve got a MK4 Mondeo 1.8 TDCI, looks exactly the same setup to the Focus you’re working on. Just wondering, I’m a novice and obviously I want my car running properly again and not to have it sitting outside my house until I can arrange Greenflag to tow it. Just following the video over like 4-5 times, you know when you got the gasket in the right place, where were you pumping the diesel to? As I didn’t see the bucket or whatever it was that you were using? Thanks.
You can either pump it into the fuel return line or into a bucket. Cheers
Good clip thanks. One question, when u were bleeding it the first time before u realised about the gasket. You were bleeding it into a tin can but after were u bleeding it back through the disconnected return hose? Thanks again.
I’ve just replaced my fuel filter on my S Max and I found the seal was on top of the filter so you might of been right the first time.
Ford factory manual says it goes on the bottom. I've heard of both working, I think it depends on filter brand
super,thanks
Top video
Thanks
fill filter up with diesel then bit easy start in air intake and will go saves priming system
+Documentary Portal good luck with that. Cheers
I actually managed to bleed mine with the filter gasket on top
Changed the fuel filter my dads Focus the other week, didn't have the primer so I towed him around the block a few times because his battery died with trying to start the car and eventually it started, you could tell air was still in the system but after a bit of spirited driving for 15 minutes it was fine.
Nice, although you can damage the fuel pump if you run it without diesel.
From what I've experienced the seal should be ABOVE the filter , as you had it in the first place ,not BELOW, basically as there is a slight recess in the float bowl for the filter to sit in . I don't know why you had so much air , possibly not seated correctly or tightened sufficiently . Bleeding is critical on these engines , if I have problems I pull the fuel through the main injector pump by connecting your hand pump to the red fuel clip on the return pipe just above the fuel pump , that way there is no way for air to get in between pump and filter when connecting and disconnecting fuel lines . Good video though
+tripleMacca thanks for dropping by and commenting. According to the Ford factory manual the seal should be below the filter and that works for me! I have had problems with certain brands of filter though, the updated Mahle version I couldn't get to bleed no matter what I did. Cheers!
You would expect the factory manual to be right so maybe the one's I have changed have been put in wrong , I normally put something back the way it was unless it is blatantly wrong . If a car comes to me running then I have to assume fitting it the same way means it should go away running , maybe I've been lucky ;-)
+tripleMacca it could be down to the differences between certain brands of filter. I presume I would have put it on the way I took it off on this one but no way it was going to work. I replaced a Ford filter with a Mann one. Who knows... Thanks for your comments, always good to hear the voice of experience
Good video. I need to do mine now. Cheers.
+Rc Vulcan cheers!
please tell me why the top fitting on the filter?
Excellent video mate, which country are u in? How do u find the cmax tdi as a family car?
Very good
Ineresting
Hi there, Thanks a mill for this super helpful video, I'll be tackling it as soon as some transparent hose shows up for my hand pump. I have a question - what's your opinion on bleeding the fuel line between the filter and the HP fuel pump? I've seen other videos where they do it, but you didn't do it here. Just wondering if you had forgotten, or if it was a deliberate decision, or if you did it but didn't show it. Obviously the engine started up for you, so your way works, but because I've seen it done bothe ways, I'm a little unsure.
Please and thanks, from Scotland.
merci
You should have removed the filter bowl to clean out because there could be sediment at the bottom of it or water, has this is also the water trap
+Kevin Haynes i thought i showed that but maybe not. Cheers
Спасибо, очень доходчиво.
No es necesario purgar de esa manera una ves que cambias el filtro se tiene que poner en contacto el auto durante 5 segundos ... Lo tiene que hacer 5 beses. Es por qué el auto tiene bomba eléctrica en el tanque, y la bomba del motor es tiene auto despurgue
there isn't an electric pump
@@Badgertronix yes my Friends
good honest video, well done. The very unhappy baby in the background probably distracted you into making that error!
+Jon Magnusson I'm all for showing my mistakes so no one else has to make them. The baby probably didn't help. Thanks for watching!
Great video. My filter was way worse. Looked like it's never been changed. Just wondering. Have you changed the PCV valve on this engine? I'm struggling to find any information/videos on how to do it. I can only find videos on the petrol engine. Cheers
Hi, have you a vid on how to change the diesel filter on a MK1 2004 1.8 TDCI focus?
never worked on one of those so no, sorry
Everyone makes mistakes fella, it’s all part of DIY
I need to do this, but obviously worried about messing it up. Ive had the car 7 years, 68k - 114k, not changed fuel filter, seems no problems. Ive even bought the bleeding kit from ebay, £20. what are your thoughts please, i once read if its working ok, leave it alone
diesel filters need changing so either give it a crack or get it done
@@Badgertronix yes thanks I've done it now with the Mann filter, there was a Fram filter, with a metal top, and the seal on top! I also struggled with the connector on the outflow pipe, it was damaged, now held fast with a cable ties. I also finished bleeding using the clutch spray in the intake, after using a Laser priming bulb.
The engine is now more responsive. Thanks for your video.
What's the MM on the pipe/pump you're using? Just about to order one, but theres a few different sizes.. cheers
Has the ford focus 1.8 tdci got an IFS and if so...where in the car? The car is a 2012 model, Thanks,
What's an IFS?
@@Badgertronix Inertia fuel shutoff switch,
Ah I see. No idea sorry
Haha, I bet you won't make that mistake again. Stuff like that always happen when a camera is rolling ;)
I did the exact same thing. I couldn't start my car .even tried putting easy start in manifold. In the end I had to get the car towed away to mecahnic and had to pay towman and mecahnic . Hard lesson learnt
These cars are a pain but if you're prepared and know about the issue you can have a plan to get it sorted. Cheers
Hi good video do you have a video on how to bleed up expansion tank my mondeo is due fresh antifreeze and noticed there isn’t a bleed valve ?
I think they're self bleeding
can any one tell me what causes a ford tdci to loose power when boating or driving over 50 mph then the engine starts to go into limp mode till the ignition key needs to be turnd off and on to drive normal it looses power up hill very often
It must set a fault code when it does that. That will point you in the right direction. Could be injectors, turbo, boost leak or anything else. Some more diagnostics required
Ahhh. Had a nightmare with this all day! Followed this video exactly on my 1.8 tdci s max. Used a pump to prime the system after filling the housing to the brim.
Car won't start. Completely baffled! Any ideas what I could try to fix this?
They can be really hard to bleed but sounds like you were doing it the right way.
This is the documented procedure:
Using a hand-held vacuum pump
1 Depress the release tabs and disconnect
the fuel outlet hose from the fuel filter.
2 Connect the vacuum pump pipe to the
outlet on the filter, and continue to pull a
vacuum until bubble-free fuel emerges from
the hose.
3 Reconnect the fuel hose.
4 Operate the starter motor and run the
engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature.
Caution: Do not operate. the starter motor
for more than 10 seconds, then wait 30 seconds
before trying again.
5 Stop the engine. Wipe up any fuel spillage,
and refit the engine cover.
When you fit the new filter the gasket has to go on the bottom. But however the pump should be connected on the fuel supply line for the filter (thich black line on the right with a black cap). The other end of the pump should go on the tube to connect the fuel filter supply line. The arrow should point towards the fuel filter. Next you should connect a clear tube on the bleeder screw and unscrew it loose (make sure you catch it in a can with the other end of the tube). You should pump until clear diesel flows through the tube of the bleeder screw without air. Important to tighten the bleeder screw just finger tight.
I replaced the filter 1589089 and 5.5 ltrs dctf wssm2c936 in my focus tdci. Shifting still shudders on take-off during initial run but lessens eventually but sliding occurs when i manually shift from 4-6th gears. Any idea what's going on?
+Mauro Maceda I've never driven a Focus with the DCT transmission so I can't offer any advice sorry. I believe it's a known issue though. Cheers!
Hi what's the size of the hose on the hand pump used to pump the air out of the fuel system? Is it 8mm thanks
+zak baggott I think I used 3/8ths fuel injection hose, so about 9.5mm. Cheers
Whats the total mileage on that Focus badger?
Just asking because i don't know anyone who has gotten more than 90,000 miles out of one of those 1.8's. My boss had his go to the scrap at 67K (the DMF was going, but the cabin got damp and shorted out the power seats and caused gremlins). One of the engineers i work with scraped his at 72k because it needed £8000 worth of work doing to the engine plus clutch/dmf plus suspension work. A contractor i use spent £3700 at 80k to get another 10k out of it before he scrapped it. I have found the ford diesels really disappointing. I would like to own a diesel because i do so many miles. But most of my mechanical knowledge is on petrols.
+zoidberg444 100,000 miles and all I've needed is a new intercooler because the old one got holed.
That's interesting, can't say I've heard too many horror stories about them. The 1.8 dates from the 70s and has been pretty well refined. No DPF, EGR bypassed, not much to go wrong.
The dual mass flywheel will go at some stage but that's a common issue on most new diesels. The only other issue on these is the cambelt that runs in oil for the diesel pump. I'll change that to a chain once the warranty runs out.
Touch wood, but this is the most reliable car I've ever owned.
Badgertronix
You know i wonder if the regs for diesels in NZ are different to the UK. Because I've heard the JDM diesels are best but get lower MPG/worse emissions but do actually last quite well compared to European market diesels because the engines aren't as stressed in the way they are tuned. I literally don't know anyone who has a good word for Ford diesels. The petrol's are ok i suppose. I literally can't think of a modern diesel engine i haven't heard horror stories about. The best are probably the Honda ones, the Toyota diesels are ok. But by Toyota standards are huge problems for them with all sorts of warranty work. Our office had one of our 1.4 Yaris blow up. Needed a new engine under warranty.
The DPF's are an absolute nightmare. I know people who have had huge bills for them on BMW's, VAG's, Nissans and Fords. A friend of mine got his wife a Ford Kuga and the DPF failed in it after 3 years. Someone else i used to work with had the DPF on his 118D fail recently. I told him not to buy the bloody thing! The bills are huge. Like £2-3K!
You know the BMW N47 engines have chain driven high pressure pumps and the chains snap all the time on them. Happened to a friend of mine 08 520D/87k. From what i read the chains didn't cope with the vibrations from the high pressure pump very well.
Petrol will be the way to go in the future. All the emissions kit is killing the diesel market. Although aftermarket DPFs are getting common.
I've had plenty of diesels over the years and not had too many issues. The 200,000 mile Passat I sold in 2007 only got scrapped around 2 years ago with who knows how many miles on it.
diesels here are the same as the UK models with same emissions standards. We've adopted the Euro standards.
+Badgertronix That wouldn't have had the 1.9 engine would it? Most of the long lived diesels i know are old VAG 1.9's and older Peugeots. A mate of mine has a 17 year old 1.9 Golf. It's off the road at the moment because the front suspension, engine mounts, radiator, water pump are all shot and the exhaust and clutch are on their last legs and it needs some intervention for rust and the braking system has some problems and it needs some new coolant hoses. But the engine purrs like a kitten at 340k! Although apparently VAG changed the design on the 1.9 and its not as good. I always find VW's are excellent vehicles, they are often let down by silly things due to penny pinching. I know a few people who got 250k + out of landrover td5's.
Nice one ..Thanks
+macanders1888 thanks for watching
Where i can buy o-ring seal (inside fuel filter cup on the filter center)?
Should come with a new filter or your Ford dealer
In the UK only the Mann and Mapco filters come with the small replacement o-ring.
well done and cheers for vid....🏁
+Phil Sharples thanks for watching
hallo size for pumpe?
Fair play for leaving in the error in the video cause it's after helping me out fiercely. Yes I did put the rubber seal in the exact way you did😂😂😂
Awesome. Glad it helped you out!
What does wiring connector on filter housing does
That's the fuel heater electrical connector. Cheers!
I think I have found the issue with my focus cheers
+gradz69 awesome!
Hi. What mm is clear tube?
Thanks.
I'd like to know the size of the bulb pump and tubing size too so that I can try myself.
good video. but it wont prime at all
took some priming. now runs fine
What mm is the primer tube?
Not sure sorry. Think I used 3/8ths
Thanks for the prompt reply! Gonna try this on my Mk1 C Max sometime this week - fingers crossed! :D
Let all the crap from the filter pour in
Disconnect negative battery first.
?
If i ever want to know how NOT to change a focus fuel filter ill call you, knob !
I'll await your call. I'm sure we'll be great mates
Great video shame about the crying kid
+chris gethin cheers. Yep, kids do that
Смотрел и плакал...абсолютно всё было сделано не правильно. От начала и до конца. Я еще удивился как автор так быстро запустил мотор после того, как завоздушил систему. Мне как то раз говноплотники в автосервисе (официальный дилер) так же прокладку поставили сверху фильтра. Удивляюсь, как автомобиль мой еще ездил и заводился. Сейчас всё делаю сам.
Works for me everytime