Here's how I always dial in AT5 to sound authentic: 1. Turn interface input vol. to minimum to begin. 2. Set AT5 input slider to maximum. (ignore AT5 input clipping) 3. Choose just an amp and speaker cab in AT5 and dial it in to get the dirtiest unaffected tone you can. (Ie. Mesa, no FX or reverb) 4. Turn on your interface's monitor button so you can hear your clean non-amplitube guitar sound when you use the blue DI option in the chain on AT5. 5. Now turn up your interface input vol knob until your DI tone blends with your dirty AT5 amp tone so it's a 50/50% mix of DI and AT5 dirty tone. 6. Ignore any AT5 input red lights but make sure your interface input isn't red lighting. Adjust AT5 output gain to just under red lighting. 7. Now go to AT5 speaker choices with this distorted tone and see how much better the difference is between the speaker choices compared to before doing this. And now see how by quickly moving the room mikes from close together to further apart while playing, can actually be hearing a difference now (or more than before). Congrats. You now have it figured out. Now go readjust all your favorite presets with this new set-up and start enjoying all AT5 has to offer. And don't believe all the interface snake oil- all you need is 48000Hz, not 192000hz. Ampliube doesn't play nice above 48,000.
Brilliant. This method works! Balancing DI with a dirty amp half and half using your interface input gain to set your levels, automatically compensates for the differences in everyone's audio interfaces, which is something IK multimedia can never account for. You can never account for differences in guitars so you just have to live with tweaking as per guitar change but at least this is tolerable and sounding a ton better now. Pinch harmonics really squeal now! Well done usta4070- Your efforts are appreciated.👍
Means goal is to let amplitube clip but protect interface clipping at any cost 🎉💐 ... And not going beyond interface max input level provided in the manual👍👍
I dunno what he was doing in this video but all those tones sounded bad. Not sure if it was the playing or his guitar or what. But everything sounded bad.
Hi mate, I know this is from three months ago but I am interested tn your method, as it seems to make good logical sense. Can I please clarify few points? On point 4 you say:Turn on your interface's monitor button so you can hear your clean non-amplitube guitar sound when you use the blue DI option in the chain on AT5. The monitor button gives you non amplitube sound so I dont get the Blue DI AT5 part? Are you saying set the monitor level to match the AT DI level first? Also confused abuot point 5. Wont increasing the input level on your interface also increase the dirty amp level? Wont both keep increasing? Thank you in advance, really appreciatet it if you can advise.
@@lulikastrati5911 None of it is rocket science. There's no voodoo or special weird tricky method. Plug your guitar cable into your interface/ input and give it some gain that you think is about right. Play what you want to play. If you really want to get involved then bounce the track to audio. If it's peaking around -12db you're alright. If it's way more than that or way less then adjust. Seriously this is a rabbit hole not worth going down.
I have to admit, at first this sounded crazy to me but I went ahead and tried it tonight and damn if it doesn't sound much better now! Thanks Matthias, Amplitube has never sounded this good to me before :-)
So if my interface's input gain at 0 is -3 dBu, and a certain amp sim wants 12 dBu, I add the 12 to the 3 plus .79 and get -15.79 and that's what I set the input slider to? I have Dyscalculia, lol.
Im not sure if this is the right video or if you mix things toghether. This video is specific for amplitube, not for other amp sims like neural dsp, softube, etc. . Ed S has videos on how to do it for other amp sims. For the method shown in this video the only calculation you need to do is: Headroom + 0.8 ( -3 + 0.8 = -2.2 ) and then boost/cut the value from the list in a seperate step. (that means you dont need to calculate this) But! -3dBu Headroom is VERY little. I would suggest to engage the pad if your interface has this option. This would change the Headroom specs and you would need to find out the Headroom with the pad engaged.
Thanks for the great work, What to do with the gain pedal does they also need gain to work right, just thinking of the links Boost-gain-amp? Gain-boost-amp? Just a question need some pedal boost/gain up to work right like the amps does need some and some don't?
Hi, thanks for your comment :) Yes, it's the same thing with distortion pedals. Most likely they will have a different calibration level as the amp(model) you are using. I tried to find a way for Amplitube pedals but as far as i remember it got really messy and didnt worked out as hoped/expected, so i stopped. Maybe i will give it a try again in the future. In my tests it seemed pretty accurate with Audiority pedals. (As far as i know) they are calibrated to 1V AC = 0dBFS. But you will need a DAW to load the chain: (Gain Plugin) [1V AC = 0dBFS calibration] - (Audiority) [pedal] - (Amplitube or Gain Plugin) [boost/cut from the list] - (Amplitube) [amp] For Amplitube Pedals I can only give you some "tips" if you want to experiment for yourself. - First calibrate for your interface to 1V AC (or 0dBu) = 0dBFS. - Load the Amp model of your likings and put the pedal with the corresponding boost or cut in the second pedal rack in Amplitube (after the split function/ after the " --> "). - In the first pedal rack load the pedal you want to use and put it between 2 7 band eq pedals. (eg. [7band] - [overscream] - [7band] ) (- If you have a reference, set the pedal to the same settings) - now, start to adjust the volume on the first eq pedal and always compensate on the second one. (eg. -6 on the first / +6 on the second) - In (my) theory this should work but somehow it didnt. As far as i remember, there was a problem with the compensating pedal, so i ended up bypassing it. - you can bypass the amp and cab, so you can better hear and analyze whats actually going on. However, i still put pedals in my ToneNet Presets because you can still use them, they still give you the characteristics of the pedal. But not in an accurate way to the real deal. ... Hope i could help :)
Use your soundcard first! Make sure u don't clip. Put a VU meter on your channel. Set the VU to a prefered headroom (-16 to -12 Db). Use gain knob on your channel and hit the strings on bass/guitar. Gain up until the th VU meter hits +/-0. THERE! Now u have a good signal. Load amplitube on the channel. Choose prefered amp. Load a 2nd VU after amplitube on a 3rd slot. Same settings as the first vu. And check u still hit +/-0 . You should have somewhere around the same value on your track meter as the swing on the first vu when hitting strings the hardest ( not by any means). IF not, boost signal on amplitubes OUTPUT SIGNAL, bottom right corner. I came up with this some time ago and it made my recordings cleaner. Less floor noise and more consistant. Please, comment or ask if necessary😊 👌🤘
Perfect! You made your high output humbucker guitar sound like a strat and/or your low output guitar sound like a metal machiene. They both have the same amount of gain now. This wouldnt be the case in real world and shouldnt be the case on an amp sim either. Amplitube still has the problem that the reference levels for the models are all over the place. "Your" method will sound and react exactly as incorrect as if you "gainstage" to a certain peak level. Some amps will have way too much gain and some will stay clean at max gain even if the real amp has plenty of gain. On some models this is more obvious, on others less. Either way the real amp will sound completely different (gainwise, everything else is a different thing) with the same settings and the same guitar. Compare the amplitube models to a demo video of the real amp. Set the AT model to the same settings as shown in the demo video and if you can use a similar(ish) guitar. I would suggest to try this with the Z Wreck and the JCA100H models. On those its really obvious, but again, this problem exists on any model to a certain degree. Try this with "your" method first and then try it with the method i show in the video. Output is completely irrelevant for this discussion. Just set it that it suits your needs. With or without VU meter.... its up to you. If you dont care about accuracy, then fine. I dont say that you cant achieve good tones with your method. Just dont expect that AT sounds like the real amp with the same settings. But in the end Amplitube is a SIMULATION of the real deal and its goal should be to sound as close as possible. And yes i have a question: Did you understand the point of the video? Sorry to be a bit harsh but ive explained it over and over again and still get the same messages. 🤘
@matthiasmuller7380 @matthiasmuller7380 no worries. Not being to harh. i think i pretty much understand. I've tried it and sounded just awfull. Still way to much gain/noise and hiss. Peaking all way from👈to👉. Even clean amps was distorting. Maybe my way was poorly explained. But the amp sounds better. More punch and hitting the "sweet spot". I really really tried to make it work as u presented it inthe video. But it was impossible to play the guitar. Red lights going crazy 😉🙄😄
@@vayzeria If you dont clip your interface on the way in or out, then there is no clipping. Modern DAWs use floating point and have a lot (and i mean really A LOT) of headroom over 0dbFS. You just need to bring it back down before the signal gets converted back to Analog and gets sent to your speaker. Its just a red light in that case. You can test this for yourself with a sine wave and an oscilloscope. But if you dont want to see red lights.... use multiple slash booster pedals (or any other clean boosts in AT) and do all your boosting with it, instead of the input slider or an extra gain plugin. Same end result, more complicated, waste of pedal slots but no "clipping" ;) If you do everything correctly, the amps will react pretty close to the real ones with this method. So, probably your "clean amp" isn't as clean as you might think in real world (at those settings). (thats why i said, compare to Demos of the real amp with same settings). dont expect that a little fender champ stays super clean if you turn it past 4-5. I think the only thing you need to do is to readjust your presets. If you had your gain (/volume) set to eg. 6 before, bring it down to 2-3 (or whatever works). Same goes for factory presets and presets from tonenet. If you have problems with noise, you maybe have an interface with high headroom. There are ways to optimize SNR in this case, but its a bit more complicated if you dont have stepped gain on your interface. But there are many other reasons that can also lead to noise problems.
@matthiasmuller7380 But if i det my soundcsrd to s minum(zero). Then i don't get a signal from the guitar to Amplitube. So cranking Amplitube to maximum gets me nothing. I mean, the pickups needs to be feeded with some voltage to react to the strings. Turning the soundcard to a minimum means playing unplugged 🫤
@@vayzeria No, the input gain is just a preamp that amplifies the signal before it gets converted to digital. Most instrument inputs are already perfectly set up for recording guitar when you turn it to zero. But there are some exceptions: - On some (Presonus) Interfaces the gain knob goes to negative values. Basically acting as a pad. In this case you need to find out where the "true zero" point is. - As i already said, if your interface has a lot of headroom it could make sense to bring the input gain up to improve Signal to Noise Ratio. (But you would need to measure how much you have boosted and compensate for that) - On some interfaces its even the other way around and if you turn it to zero, you still dont have enough headroom and your guitar will clip. Gainwise it doesnt matter if you boost eg. 6db on the interface or in the software. sure you use the inst input and not line?
Hi! I didn't found the maximum input level for the Behringer Guitar Link UCG102. Someone knows if there's a defaul value for this model of sound card, and which value I can use? Thanks.
Hi Mattias, I have a question about the interface gain that needs to be set to 0. All the way left. Is that on the interface itself or in the DAW? I use a focusrite and Ableton. I have been looking all over and i believe that there is no way to control any interface gain in Ableton itself. When i add a Ableton Utility in in front of the Amplitube plug in and boost that with 13.3 and use the setting you provided in the spreadsheet, it just sounds terrible. I believe that i do something wrong there. The knob on my focusrite it set to 6 o'clock. Thanks
Hi, Input Knob on your Interface goes to zero/all the way left. But keep in mind that your current presets will sound different anyway. You will need to readjust them.
Be sure to set your focusrite to 'INST' = instrument level, than the dBu of 12.5 applies. Then input level of AT should be 13.3, and further finetune with the amp model list, most have 0 anyway.
Hi, just to resume without using a daw. Focuserite 6i6: 1) knob on interface on 'zero' (all the way left); 2) where do I increase 12.0 +0.79=12.79? On input of amplitube? 3) Then from the amp list (example '65 Twin Reverb:+9) without the amplitube Slash booster or amplitube eq , where do I increase the +9 DB? If I use other pedals in amplitube like booster or distortion or any pedal that increases other DB, that do will get some effect about the balancing performed? Thanks N.B. It will be very useful a short video on how setup it with garageband, for the reason that it's free on mac. Thanks a lot
Hi, 1) exactly 2) yes, on the input slider in amplitube 3) You can use the Graphic or Parametric EQ instead (just the level control), but you will need (in most cases) one of those modules because the input slider in amplitube simply doesn't allow for enough gain. 4) It depends where you put it in your chain. But basically, no it doesn't change the "balancing". If you use any other pedals you can use them just like normal. You can see the pedal/module thats needed for the boost from the list as part of the amp. It's just here to get the simulated amp to behave closer to the real one (because IK messed it up). I already wrote a few comments how it "works" with pedals and that/why they have their problem too. ... I don't use mac and therefore no garageband or logic but its basically the same for any DAW and really not complicated. ;)
@@matthiasmuller7380 Thanks a lot Matthias, now everything is ok: your advice is to achieve as a real deal works, then everyone can add whathever like just as far as in a real deal! Great!
Hi @mattias muller,my dididesign 003 has this specs: DI Inputs Connector: Four balanced 1/4 inch jacks Frequency Response: +/- 0.1 dB, 20 Hz - 20 kHz Dynamic Range: 104 dB / 106 dB A-weighted THD + N: 0.0008% (-102 dB) - Balanced input Input Sensitivity: +17.16 dBu Input Impedance: >300K Ohm would the input sensitivity be my value ?
Hi, I wonder if this way to set up, is just for Amplitube? Because any other videos I've found on YT are skipping the part where you add +13dB. They're saying to boost / cut a specific value, which varies for each plugin developer depending on how sensitive is the gain structure in the amp sim. I've contacted Nembrini for example, and they confirmed that the plugins needs to see at the input 1 Vp = 0.707 VRMS = -0.79 dBu equals -13 dBFS.
Hi, Yes this Video is only for Amplitube, but its based on the same principle. In fact they don't skip the step where you calibrate your interface to a specific value (their reference point), but they skip the next step (getting the right gain for the amp model). On most amp sims you dont need this because once calibrated, all amp or pedal models are working correctly. As Ed already said in comments on his Video (and others), IK dont want to play ball.... They dont give any information and its very clear that they use different calibration levels/reference points all over the place. So i decided to make this speadsheet to (hopefully) give you a good starting point, but only IK can give most accurate and official numbers. Hope i could help :)
@@matthiasmuller7380 Thanks for reply, now I got it. Yes, one of the guys I was talking about is Es S. I'm using his spreadsheet with the gain values for all plugins and now they sound fantastic. Your Amplitube gain values list is awesome, it's working. But I stopped using Amplitube just because it's unreliable, setting different gain values for different amps in the same plugin is ridiculous.
Hi, Cant say that much about Tonex since i dont use it much but... Tonex is different and even more complicated/difficult. There is another RUclipsr who made a video about input gain with Tonex (Software). According to his video it seems (to me) that Tonex expect a 1V = 0dBFS (or 0dBu = 0dBFS, whitch is quite close) input. But then there is still the problem that everyone is using different levels and different chains for the capture process. Whithout a calibration level for each capture the only thing you can do is to guess and experiment. Best advice i can give is to calibrate to 1V or 0dBu = 0dBFS, start there and then experiment with the input gain:/
Can you look at my interface specs? It's M-AUDIO AIR 192 4 and I can't see your example values in the product website. Inst Input 2 (unbalanced 1/4″ [6.35 mm] TS) FREQUENCY RESPONSE 20 Hz - 20 kHz (+0.05 dB) DYNAMIC RANGE 100 dB (A-weighted) SIGNAL-TO-NOISE RATIO 102 dB (+ 4 dBu, A-weighted) THD+N 0.004% MAX INPUT LEVEL 6 dBu INPUT IMPEDANCE 1 MΩ GAIN RANGE 24 dB
As per manual my interface's instrument input , max INPUT level is +22dBV @min gain ... Shall i add 0.79 dB to it ? How much gain should i set up using Mixtool plugin to bring it to 0 dBFS ..... Thx !!
@@matthiasmuller7380 my manual says it's 22dBV which translates to 17.6 dBU ... Thx to Eddy ..smwhr he commented that 1 dBV = 1.244 dBU 💐💐 ... Also after lot of reading I found out neural Dsp zero = 12.2 dBU .... Now m curious to know wht AT5 zero equals to ? 😀✅🎉🎉💐
@@07dhiraj Neural DSP is using 12.2 dBu = 0dBFS for all of their Plugins/ Amp Models Amplitube is using different calibration levels for different Amp Models, some are around +12dBu = 0dBFS, some are around -24dBu = 0dBFS, or something in between. Neural DSP is answering our Questions IK Multimedia dont want to Thats the reason i did this (and why i say that only IK can give the correct values). Its maybe guesswork but better to have this (at least as starting point) than comletely spitballing.
@@matthiasmuller7380 if we get that number then only we can proceed with further increase gain on plugin as per your uploaded list for each amp on TG page... Bcz until the interface isn't calibrated on 1 V , 0 dBFS any further dialing of gain is pointless bcz that may not be how the real amp would respond 💐💐👍👍
@@07dhiraj If IK would give us these number(s), my list would not be needed anymore. But yeah, using the list without calibrating to 1V AC = 0dBFS will give you results that are not intended.
Wait… so I should be running zero gain on my on my interface input. Then I’m to add 20db(per my manual) input gain via some random plug in or I would guess channel trim in the daw? Then… then again boost for the example used in this video another 24db within Amplitube? That’s crazy 44db of digital gain! I’ve been using about 8-10 for my main guitar via my interface I put gain knob and I need to add another 34? This seems way over the top. I am of course going to try this asap cause I’m curious. I felt like I was maybe a little short on input gain but I was thinking 4db not 34db. Ok well I’ll see you in another videos comment section I guess.
Hi, the amount of gain you need is different for each model. As you can see on the list, on some models you will reduce the gain after your calibration to 1V. And yes, the amount of gain for the Zwreck model is ridiculous, but it is what it is.... you can compare to youtube demos of the real amp. Set the amp model to the same settings as shown in the video, take a guitar with roughly the same output and compare if you get close to the gain response of the real amp.
@@matthiasmuller7380 I’ve been experimenting with my setup. I like this better than the way I was doing it before. I’m mostly playing thrash kind of stuff so it’s not all that big of a deal for me. I hear the difference now and I think I understand except for where the number come from for the individual amps. Why is one say -3 but others are +24 and what are they based on? Again, it doesn’t really matter for my application I’m just curious. If it sounds good it sounds good. I was also experimenting with different plugins to do the headroom boost part. Try throwing a clipper in there and boosting the input. This has opened my eyes to so many more ways to shape tones. Thanks.
@@stevewoodyt As i said, each Amp model is calibrated differently in AT5, so each amp needs different input gain to respond like the real counterpart. Thats why we need different values for different models. I compared each model to the real amp (mostly to video demos) and came up with a number where the model behaves the closest to the real deal (with same settings on both). Its not the perfect solution because there is a lot of guesswork involved but its the best we/i can do. A more accurate way would be that IKM tells us these numbers (but they won't...). And even better would be if they would use a consistent calibration level for all pedal/amp models and just tell us one number. Like NDSP or other companys. Maybe in the future.... . I'm glad you like it and it sounds better for you :) ,but the main reason for this is not necessarily that it sounds "better", the main reason is that it sounds and react more like the real counterpart. So feel free to re - adjust the settings on the amp to where you like it, but now you know that some amps are maybe not that hot as you thought (or vice versa). If you use a clipper instead of a normal trim plugin you would get basically (kind of) a distortion pedal infront of the amp, but my method would not work like intended. Don't be afraid to get red lights. This is not "clipping", its just an indicator. Modern DAWs and Plugins can work with so much headroom, its ridiculous. BUT! Don't go in the red on the way in and out of your interface!
No, not really. - When setting the input on your interface to zero you make sure you have a known headroom (which is different from interface to interace). - With this known headroom you can calibrate your interface to a specific value. - For most amp sims this would be enough but since every model in amplitube is calibrated to a different value, you need to change this value for each amp model to get the correct response from the amp. There are different reasons why to add the gain inside the software and not on the interface. In short, it's just the easiest way...... which prevents you from clipping, not requires to always change settings (and doing maths for each change), meassuring with multimeters, etc. ....
The recorded files were clean tones straight into the audio interface. Amplitube is just like a pedal on a board, so you can turn it on and off to try different amps on the same direct line file 💪🏻
Am I understanding this correctly -- I am using a Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen interface which is +12.5 dbu at Gain 0 So following your advice , I would have 12.5 + 0.79 = 13.29 So I have interface on Min (instrument input full left) However I am using the Brit8000 amp which your chart states has an amp input value of -12 This ends up being Focusrite Gain (minimum- far left on dial) Amplitube Iinput gain = 13.29 - 12.00 = 1.29 on the Amplitube Input Slider This is almost a "wash" cancelling each other out. Is this correct ? This is a pretty weak input signal With a Fender Strat the interface input HALOS barely light green at all unless picking hard. Many passages are played without the Focusrite Instrument input lights turning green at all. And this is almost no added input gain inside Amplitube The resulting INPUT signal is only about 45-50% in the software Did I understand your instructions properly ? This seems to produce a very thin tone and weak touch response -------- the tone seems much fuller and the "feel" is more chunky if the Amplitube input gain is at 0.0 and the Focusrite gain is adjusted to the point where the input is GREEN .. but never crosses into orange or red at all Thanks for your reply and feedback on my question ?
Hi, i already answered your question on TGP but i will do it here again so other people can read it too. Yes, looks like you are doing everything correctly. That the numbers nearly cancelling each other out is only the combination from your interface and the Brit8000 Model. If you use a different interface or amp model this number could look completely different. I had to find a way thats useable for all kind of different interface/amp model combination. So, even if it sounds "stupid" because the numbers are cancelling each other out in this example, i think overall its the best and easiest way. Even if your lights on the Interface doesn't light up, your Input level is still not THAT low. As long as you don't get any problems with high noisefloor (which should not be the case) you are fine. I think -12 is pretty close to the response of a real JCM800. Of course it sounded fatter and louder with your "regular" gain staging but not accurate to the real deal and of course, if you want the same amount of gain as before you would need to compensate with the gain knob on the actual amp (or with a pedal, etc...). Maybe you also need to play with the output to match the loudness you had before. (with a different amp model it can be exactly the other way around) You can think of it like you always played with a boost pedal (with unknown settings) in front of your amp. Now, with this method you removed this pedal. ;) (Of course if you liked the sound, feel free to add it back in, but know you know (and see) this is the sound of a fender into a jcm800 with a clean boost in front and not the amp alone) Hope i could help :)
haha ..exactly thts what i thought after this math ..here in Dr Z we were adding the gain so it was sounding nice in demo ..but what if we have to minus the gain values as in your case of amp chosen ..The gain will be nearly zero producing very weak sound . Seems really confusing regarding what we are trying to achieve .... Pls explain to me also what you ve understood so far from this video. Cheers !
@@07dhiraj We try to achieve to get the correct response from the amp model, when you set your gain to, lets say 4, you should get the same amount of gain in amplitube as with the real amp. The goal is not to boost every amp so it has more gain as the real counterpart (or before calibration). Because it seems that each amp model is calibrated differently, we need different values for different models.
@@matthiasmuller7380 yep got it .. after calibrating to 1 V , 0 dbFS we can anyway later increase gain frm amp knobs instead of messing with interface gain 👍👍🙏
"What has the room mics to do with a realistic responce from the amp? " Nothing and nobody said it will. You're reading wayyy too much into this bro. The room mics is an example of how AT5 becomes more responsive and changes are more apparent once you have a hot enough input signal. When your input is too low, it's less apparent what center of speaker vs edge of speaker mic'ing does and stereo speaker spread is less apparent within AT5. In other words, it livens things up within AT5. The only thing AT5 makers tell you is don't clip your interface. Even their own presets are all over the map. This is a journey everyone must take on their own and one size doesn't fit all.
I agree that good tone is very subjective. Thats the reason i said in the beginning of the video that this video is NOT about showing how to get "good tone". Your approach is fine if you just want to achieve some tones you are happy with and don't care if the actual amp would be even close to it (or you know exactly how all the different amps react and know what to expect from them). But then,.... IK's marketing claims that they have the "most realistic amp sim", they have officialy licenced amps and they recreate the picture of the real amp on their GUI to push this marketing strategy. If it's not their goal to make a faithful emulation of the real amp, then why would all this even matter? (It would only be very confusing, right?) (One) Problem is that a lot of people buy amplitube because they want to explore all the different amps and see how they sound and react (without owning the actual amp). but going after your approach means that they have to be very familliar with the real amp at first, before they can get a realistic response from the amplitube model. This leads to people thinking that you always have to push "amp x" with an distortion pedal and crank the gain to get enough distortion. Or other way around, they think "amp y" is not capable of a clean tone, even with gain at ~1. Both is probably not true with the real amp. Now back to the "good tone topic": With this method you will have a starting point how the real amp will react and also what impact it makes when you change guitar, pickup height etc. . After that its completly up to you what guitar you use, if or what pedals you use, how you set the settings on the amp, how you place the mics, etc.,etc.... . These should be the things to craft your tone and in my opinion this is a fun process. Fiddling around with input gain and hoping that it's right is not very fun (in my opinion).
praticamente mi rimangono tutti gli amplificatori puliti con un rumore di fondo impressionante, neanche se alzo il gain al massimo della mia presonus68C fa tutto quel rumore. tu hai fatto un tutorIal ben definito , non capisco dove sbaglio. sulle specificeh tecniche mi da questo : Line Inputs Maximum Level +22 dBu (balanced, Minimum Gain)
@@robik8652 You want to use the Instrument Input on your Interface, not the Line input. (Even with active Pickups) Inst Input specs for your Interface are: Maximum Level: +15 dBu (unbalanced, min gain) If you do this correctly there should not be much noise/hum/hiss added from the interface itself. But there could be other reasons like grounding issues, etc. . Also the amp models itself are adding Noise, but thats not really in our hand to change.
You can't use it wrong.This is Amplitube 5 and you can't expect super quality.This is ONLY Amplitube 5.This is not the best amp sim in the world.This is an average sound people.That is that.I prefer single amps from different amps maker.One good amp is better than all Amplitube.
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Nice work. I loaded your presets today and followed your instructions. Works very well. Thanks.
Thanks for your comment :) There are more presets waiting to get uploaded😉
Here's how I always dial in AT5 to sound authentic:
1. Turn interface input vol. to minimum to begin.
2. Set AT5 input slider to maximum. (ignore AT5 input clipping)
3. Choose just an amp and speaker cab in AT5 and dial it in to get the dirtiest unaffected tone you can. (Ie. Mesa, no FX or reverb)
4. Turn on your interface's monitor button so you can hear your clean non-amplitube guitar sound when you use the blue DI option in the chain on AT5.
5. Now turn up your interface input vol knob until your DI tone blends with your dirty AT5 amp tone so it's a 50/50% mix of DI and AT5 dirty tone.
6. Ignore any AT5 input red lights but make sure your interface input isn't red lighting. Adjust AT5 output gain to just under red lighting.
7. Now go to AT5 speaker choices with this distorted tone and see how much better the difference is between the speaker choices compared to before doing this. And now see how by quickly moving the room mikes from close together to further apart while playing, can actually be hearing a difference now (or more than before).
Congrats. You now have it figured out. Now go readjust all your favorite presets with this new set-up and start enjoying all AT5 has to offer.
And don't believe all the interface snake oil- all you need is 48000Hz, not 192000hz. Ampliube doesn't play nice above 48,000.
Brilliant. This method works! Balancing DI with a dirty amp half and half using your interface input gain to set your levels, automatically compensates for the differences in everyone's audio interfaces, which is something IK multimedia can never account for. You can never account for differences in guitars so you just have to live with tweaking as per guitar change but at least this is tolerable and sounding a ton better now. Pinch harmonics really squeal now! Well done usta4070- Your efforts are appreciated.👍
Means goal is to let amplitube clip but protect interface clipping at any cost 🎉💐 ... And not going beyond interface max input level provided in the manual👍👍
I dunno what he was doing in this video but all those tones sounded bad. Not sure if it was the playing or his guitar or what. But everything sounded bad.
Hi mate, I know this is from three months ago but I am interested tn your method, as it seems to make good logical sense.
Can I please clarify few points? On point 4 you say:Turn on your interface's monitor button so you can hear your clean non-amplitube guitar sound when you use the blue DI option in the chain on AT5. The monitor button gives you non amplitube sound so I dont get the Blue DI AT5 part? Are you saying set the monitor level to match the AT DI level first?
Also confused abuot point 5. Wont increasing the input level on your interface also increase the dirty amp level? Wont both keep increasing?
Thank you in advance, really appreciatet it if you can advise.
@@lulikastrati5911 None of it is rocket science. There's no voodoo or special weird tricky method. Plug your guitar cable into your interface/ input and give it some gain that you think is about right. Play what you want to play. If you really want to get involved then bounce the track to audio. If it's peaking around -12db you're alright. If it's way more than that or way less then adjust. Seriously this is a rabbit hole not worth going down.
In the beggining i was thinking this was some random ideas but it actually works and it gives a more real sound. It's a YES for me :D
I have to admit, at first this sounded crazy to me but I went ahead and tried it tonight and damn if it doesn't sound much better now! Thanks Matthias, Amplitube has never sounded this good to me before :-)
Thank you v much for making this video, good to see more Studio One users
tyvm 😍
So if my interface's input gain at 0 is -3 dBu, and a certain amp sim wants 12 dBu, I add the 12 to the 3 plus .79 and get -15.79 and that's what I set the input slider to?
I have Dyscalculia, lol.
Im not sure if this is the right video or if you mix things toghether.
This video is specific for amplitube, not for other amp sims like neural dsp, softube, etc. . Ed S has videos on how to do it for other amp sims.
For the method shown in this video the only calculation you need to do is: Headroom + 0.8
( -3 + 0.8 = -2.2 )
and then boost/cut the value from the list in a seperate step. (that means you dont need to calculate this)
But! -3dBu Headroom is VERY little. I would suggest to engage the pad if your interface has this option. This would change the Headroom specs and you would need to find out the Headroom with the pad engaged.
@@matthiasmuller7380 Thank you.
Thanks for the great work,
What to do with the gain pedal does they also need gain to work right, just thinking of the links
Boost-gain-amp?
Gain-boost-amp?
Just a question need some pedal boost/gain up to work right like the amps does need some and some don't?
Hi, thanks for your comment :)
Yes, it's the same thing with distortion pedals. Most likely they will have a different calibration level as the amp(model) you are using. I tried to find a way for Amplitube pedals but as far as i remember it got really messy and didnt worked out as hoped/expected, so i stopped. Maybe i will give it a try again in the future.
In my tests it seemed pretty accurate with Audiority pedals. (As far as i know) they are calibrated to 1V AC = 0dBFS. But you will need a DAW to load the chain:
(Gain Plugin) [1V AC = 0dBFS calibration] - (Audiority) [pedal] - (Amplitube or Gain Plugin) [boost/cut from the list] - (Amplitube) [amp]
For Amplitube Pedals I can only give you some "tips" if you want to experiment for yourself.
- First calibrate for your interface to 1V AC (or 0dBu) = 0dBFS.
- Load the Amp model of your likings and put the pedal with the corresponding boost or cut in the second pedal rack in Amplitube (after the split function/ after the " --> ").
- In the first pedal rack load the pedal you want to use and put it between 2 7 band eq pedals. (eg. [7band] - [overscream] - [7band] )
(- If you have a reference, set the pedal to the same settings)
- now, start to adjust the volume on the first eq pedal and always compensate on the second one. (eg. -6 on the first / +6 on the second)
- In (my) theory this should work but somehow it didnt. As far as i remember, there was a problem with the compensating pedal, so i ended up bypassing it.
- you can bypass the amp and cab, so you can better hear and analyze whats actually going on.
However, i still put pedals in my ToneNet Presets because you can still use them, they still give you the characteristics of the pedal. But not in an accurate way to the real deal. ...
Hope i could help :)
@@matthiasmuller7380 thanks for that great answer 👍
@@matthiasmuller7380 i will hopefully there will be a standard in the near future for plugin and all the Digital/software stof
Use your soundcard first!
Make sure u don't clip.
Put a VU meter on your channel. Set the VU to a prefered headroom (-16 to -12 Db).
Use gain knob on your channel and hit the strings on bass/guitar. Gain up until the th VU meter hits +/-0.
THERE! Now u have a good signal.
Load amplitube on the channel. Choose prefered amp. Load a 2nd VU after amplitube on a 3rd slot.
Same settings as the first vu. And check u still hit +/-0 .
You should have somewhere around the same value on your track meter as the swing on the first vu when hitting strings the hardest ( not by any means). IF not, boost signal on amplitubes OUTPUT SIGNAL, bottom right corner.
I came up with this some time ago and it made my recordings cleaner. Less floor noise and more consistant. Please, comment or ask if necessary😊
👌🤘
Perfect! You made your high output humbucker guitar sound like a strat and/or your low output guitar sound like a metal machiene. They both have the same amount of gain now. This wouldnt be the case in real world and shouldnt be the case on an amp sim either.
Amplitube still has the problem that the reference levels for the models are all over the place. "Your" method will sound and react exactly as incorrect as if you "gainstage" to a certain peak level.
Some amps will have way too much gain and some will stay clean at max gain even if the real amp has plenty of gain. On some models this is more obvious, on others less. Either way the real amp will sound completely different (gainwise, everything else is a different thing) with the same settings and the same guitar.
Compare the amplitube models to a demo video of the real amp. Set the AT model to the same settings as shown in the demo video and if you can use a similar(ish) guitar. I would suggest to try this with the Z Wreck and the JCA100H models. On those its really obvious, but again, this problem exists on any model to a certain degree. Try this with "your" method first and then try it with the method i show in the video.
Output is completely irrelevant for this discussion. Just set it that it suits your needs. With or without VU meter.... its up to you.
If you dont care about accuracy, then fine. I dont say that you cant achieve good tones with your method. Just dont expect that AT sounds like the real amp with the same settings.
But in the end Amplitube is a SIMULATION of the real deal and its goal should be to sound as close as possible.
And yes i have a question:
Did you understand the point of the video?
Sorry to be a bit harsh but ive explained it over and over again and still get the same messages. 🤘
@matthiasmuller7380 @matthiasmuller7380 no worries. Not being to harh.
i think i pretty much understand. I've tried it and sounded just awfull. Still way to much gain/noise and hiss.
Peaking all way from👈to👉.
Even clean amps was distorting.
Maybe my way was poorly explained. But the amp sounds better. More punch and hitting the "sweet spot".
I really really tried to make it work as u presented it inthe video. But it was impossible to play the guitar. Red lights going crazy 😉🙄😄
@@vayzeria
If you dont clip your interface on the way in or out, then there is no clipping. Modern DAWs use floating point and have a lot (and i mean really A LOT) of headroom over 0dbFS. You just need to bring it back down before the signal gets converted back to Analog and gets sent to your speaker. Its just a red light in that case. You can test this for yourself with a sine wave and an oscilloscope. But if you dont want to see red lights.... use multiple slash booster pedals (or any other clean boosts in AT) and do all your boosting with it, instead of the input slider or an extra gain plugin. Same end result, more complicated, waste of pedal slots but no "clipping" ;)
If you do everything correctly, the amps will react pretty close to the real ones with this method. So, probably your "clean amp" isn't as clean as you might think in real world (at those settings). (thats why i said, compare to Demos of the real amp with same settings). dont expect that a little fender champ stays super clean if you turn it past 4-5.
I think the only thing you need to do is to readjust your presets. If you had your gain (/volume) set to eg. 6 before, bring it down to 2-3 (or whatever works). Same goes for factory presets and presets from tonenet.
If you have problems with noise, you maybe have an interface with high headroom. There are ways to optimize SNR in this case, but its a bit more complicated if you dont have stepped gain on your interface. But there are many other reasons that can also lead to noise problems.
@matthiasmuller7380
But if i det my soundcsrd to s minum(zero). Then i don't get a signal from the guitar to Amplitube. So cranking Amplitube to maximum gets me nothing.
I mean, the pickups needs to be feeded with some voltage to react to the strings. Turning the soundcard to a minimum means playing unplugged 🫤
@@vayzeria
No, the input gain is just a preamp that amplifies the signal before it gets converted to digital. Most instrument inputs are already perfectly set up for recording guitar when you turn it to zero. But there are some exceptions:
- On some (Presonus) Interfaces the gain knob goes to negative values. Basically acting as a pad. In this case you need to find out where the "true zero" point is.
- As i already said, if your interface has a lot of headroom it could make sense to bring the input gain up to improve Signal to Noise Ratio. (But you would need to measure how much you have boosted and compensate for that)
- On some interfaces its even the other way around and if you turn it to zero, you still dont have enough headroom and your guitar will clip.
Gainwise it doesnt matter if you boost eg. 6db on the interface or in the software.
sure you use the inst input and not line?
Hi! I didn't found the maximum input level for the Behringer Guitar Link UCG102. Someone knows if there's a defaul value for this model of sound card, and which value I can use? Thanks.
muchisimas gracias 😩
Hi Mattias, I have a question about the interface gain that needs to be set to 0. All the way left. Is that on the interface itself or in the DAW? I use a focusrite and Ableton. I have been looking all over and i believe that there is no way to control any interface gain in Ableton itself. When i add a Ableton Utility in in front of the Amplitube plug in and boost that with 13.3 and use the setting you provided in the spreadsheet, it just sounds terrible. I believe that i do something wrong there. The knob on my focusrite it set to 6 o'clock. Thanks
Hi, Input Knob on your Interface goes to zero/all the way left.
But keep in mind that your current presets will sound different anyway. You will need to readjust them.
On my interface (Cubase). I can turn the input gain to a negative 0. Which means i can set the input to absolutely nothing!
Be sure to set your focusrite to 'INST' = instrument level, than the dBu of 12.5 applies. Then input level of AT should be 13.3, and further finetune with the amp model list, most have 0 anyway.
Hi, just to resume without using a daw. Focuserite 6i6: 1) knob on interface on 'zero' (all the way left); 2) where do I increase 12.0 +0.79=12.79? On input of amplitube? 3) Then from the amp list (example '65 Twin Reverb:+9) without the amplitube Slash booster or amplitube eq , where do I increase the +9 DB?
If I use other pedals in amplitube like booster or distortion or any pedal that increases other DB, that do will get some effect about the
balancing performed? Thanks
N.B. It will be very useful a short video on how setup it with garageband, for the reason that it's free on mac. Thanks a lot
Hi,
1) exactly
2) yes, on the input slider in amplitube
3) You can use the Graphic or Parametric EQ instead (just the level control), but you will need (in most cases) one of those modules because the input slider in amplitube simply doesn't allow for enough gain.
4) It depends where you put it in your chain. But basically, no it doesn't change the "balancing". If you use any other pedals you can use them just like normal.
You can see the pedal/module thats needed for the boost from the list as part of the amp. It's just here to get the simulated amp to behave closer to the real one (because IK messed it up).
I already wrote a few comments how it "works" with pedals and that/why they have their problem too.
... I don't use mac and therefore no garageband or logic but its basically the same for any DAW and really not complicated. ;)
@@matthiasmuller7380 Thanks a lot Matthias, now everything is ok: your advice is to achieve as a real deal works, then everyone can add whathever like just as far as in a real deal! Great!
Hi @mattias muller,my dididesign 003 has this specs:
DI Inputs
Connector: Four balanced 1/4 inch jacks
Frequency Response: +/- 0.1 dB, 20 Hz - 20 kHz
Dynamic Range: 104 dB / 106 dB A-weighted
THD + N: 0.0008% (-102 dB) - Balanced input
Input Sensitivity: +17.16 dBu
Input Impedance: >300K Ohm
would the input sensitivity be my value ?
cant guarantee, but seems thats correct.
It's absurd that AT models are not all calibrated to the same level...
Thanks you a lot, could you make one video for tonex plugin?
Hi, I wonder if this way to set up, is just for Amplitube?
Because any other videos I've found on YT are skipping the part where you add +13dB. They're saying to boost / cut a specific value, which varies for each plugin developer depending on how sensitive is the gain structure in the amp sim. I've contacted Nembrini for example, and they confirmed that the plugins needs to see at the input 1 Vp = 0.707 VRMS = -0.79 dBu equals -13 dBFS.
Hi,
Yes this Video is only for Amplitube, but its based on the same principle. In fact they don't skip the step where you calibrate your interface to a specific value (their reference point), but they skip the next step (getting the right gain for the amp model). On most amp sims you dont need this because once calibrated, all amp or pedal models are working correctly. As Ed already said in comments on his Video (and others), IK dont want to play ball....
They dont give any information and its very clear that they use different calibration levels/reference points all over the place. So i decided to make this speadsheet to (hopefully) give you a good starting point, but only IK can give most accurate and official numbers.
Hope i could help :)
@@matthiasmuller7380 Thanks for reply, now I got it.
Yes, one of the guys I was talking about is Es S. I'm using his spreadsheet with the gain values for all plugins and now they sound fantastic. Your Amplitube gain values list is awesome, it's working.
But I stopped using Amplitube just because it's unreliable, setting different gain values for different amps in the same plugin is ridiculous.
@@matthiasmuller7380yes, very helpful. Thanks 😁
Hi Matthias, how would this approach work with tonex?
Hi,
Cant say that much about Tonex since i dont use it much but... Tonex is different and even more complicated/difficult. There is another RUclipsr who made a video about input gain with Tonex (Software). According to his video it seems (to me) that Tonex expect a 1V = 0dBFS (or 0dBu = 0dBFS, whitch is quite close) input.
But then there is still the problem that everyone is using different levels and different chains for the capture process. Whithout a calibration level for each capture the only thing you can do is to guess and experiment.
Best advice i can give is to calibrate to 1V or 0dBu = 0dBFS, start there and then experiment with the input gain:/
Can you look at my interface specs? It's M-AUDIO AIR 192 4 and I can't see your example values in the product website.
Inst Input 2 (unbalanced 1/4″ [6.35 mm] TS)
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 20 Hz - 20 kHz (+0.05 dB)
DYNAMIC RANGE 100 dB (A-weighted)
SIGNAL-TO-NOISE RATIO 102 dB (+ 4 dBu, A-weighted)
THD+N 0.004%
MAX INPUT LEVEL 6 dBu
INPUT IMPEDANCE 1 MΩ
GAIN RANGE 24 dB
MAX INPUT LEVEL 6 dBu
As per manual my interface's instrument input , max INPUT level is +22dBV @min gain ... Shall i add 0.79 dB to it ? How much gain should i set up using Mixtool plugin to bring it to 0 dBFS ..... Thx !!
dBV or dBu ? what interface do you use?
@@matthiasmuller7380 my manual says it's 22dBV which translates to 17.6 dBU ... Thx to Eddy ..smwhr he commented that 1 dBV = 1.244 dBU 💐💐 ... Also after lot of reading I found out neural Dsp zero = 12.2 dBU .... Now m curious to know wht AT5 zero equals to ? 😀✅🎉🎉💐
@@07dhiraj
Neural DSP is using 12.2 dBu = 0dBFS for all of their Plugins/ Amp Models
Amplitube is using different calibration levels for different Amp Models, some are around +12dBu = 0dBFS, some are around -24dBu = 0dBFS, or something in between.
Neural DSP is answering our Questions
IK Multimedia dont want to
Thats the reason i did this (and why i say that only IK can give the correct values). Its maybe guesswork but better to have this (at least as starting point) than comletely spitballing.
@@matthiasmuller7380 if we get that number then only we can proceed with further increase gain on plugin as per your uploaded list for each amp on TG page... Bcz until the interface isn't calibrated on 1 V , 0 dBFS any further dialing of gain is pointless bcz that may not be how the real amp would respond 💐💐👍👍
@@07dhiraj
If IK would give us these number(s), my list would not be needed anymore.
But yeah, using the list without calibrating to 1V AC = 0dBFS will give you results that are not intended.
I never see a video about the input level on the interface or daw for that
Wait… so I should be running zero gain on my on my interface input. Then I’m to add 20db(per my manual) input gain via some random plug in or I would guess channel trim in the daw? Then… then again boost for the example used in this video another 24db within Amplitube? That’s crazy 44db of digital gain! I’ve been using about 8-10 for my main guitar via my interface I put gain knob and I need to add another 34? This seems way over the top. I am of course going to try this asap cause I’m curious. I felt like I was maybe a little short on input gain but I was thinking 4db not 34db. Ok well I’ll see you in another videos comment section I guess.
Hi, the amount of gain you need is different for each model. As you can see on the list, on some models you will reduce the gain after your calibration to 1V. And yes, the amount of gain for the Zwreck model is ridiculous, but it is what it is.... you can compare to youtube demos of the real amp. Set the amp model to the same settings as shown in the video, take a guitar with roughly the same output and compare if you get close to the gain response of the real amp.
@@matthiasmuller7380 I’ve been experimenting with my setup. I like this better than the way I was doing it before. I’m mostly playing thrash kind of stuff so it’s not all that big of a deal for me. I hear the difference now and I think I understand except for where the number come from for the individual amps. Why is one say -3 but others are +24 and what are they based on? Again, it doesn’t really matter for my application I’m just curious. If it sounds good it sounds good. I was also experimenting with different plugins to do the headroom boost part. Try throwing a clipper in there and boosting the input. This has opened my eyes to so many more ways to shape tones. Thanks.
@@stevewoodyt
As i said, each Amp model is calibrated differently in AT5, so each amp needs different input gain to respond like the real counterpart. Thats why we need different values for different models. I compared each model to the real amp (mostly to video demos) and came up with a number where the model behaves the closest to the real deal (with same settings on both). Its not the perfect solution because there is a lot of guesswork involved but its the best we/i can do.
A more accurate way would be that IKM tells us these numbers (but they won't...). And even better would be if they would use a consistent calibration level for all pedal/amp models and just tell us one number. Like NDSP or other companys. Maybe in the future.... .
I'm glad you like it and it sounds better for you :) ,but the main reason for this is not necessarily that it sounds "better", the main reason is that it sounds and react more like the real counterpart. So feel free to re - adjust the settings on the amp to where you like it, but now you know that some amps are maybe not that hot as you thought (or vice versa).
If you use a clipper instead of a normal trim plugin you would get basically (kind of) a distortion pedal infront of the amp, but my method would not work like intended.
Don't be afraid to get red lights. This is not "clipping", its just an indicator. Modern DAWs and Plugins can work with so much headroom, its ridiculous.
BUT!
Don't go in the red on the way in and out of your interface!
@@matthiasmuller7380 It's absurd that AT models are not all calibrated to the same level...
Basically solution is to add gain from external like a gain plugin to compensate the gain loss ? 🤔
No, not really.
- When setting the input on your interface to zero you make sure you have a known headroom (which is different from interface to interace).
- With this known headroom you can calibrate your interface to a specific value.
- For most amp sims this would be enough but since every model in amplitube is calibrated to a different value, you need to change this value for each amp model to get the correct response from the amp.
There are different reasons why to add the gain inside the software and not on the interface. In short, it's just the easiest way...... which prevents you from clipping, not requires to always change settings (and doing maths for each change), meassuring with multimeters, etc. ....
You are using always the same 2 recorded wave files. I don t understand
The recorded files were clean tones straight into the audio interface. Amplitube is just like a pedal on a board, so you can turn it on and off to try different amps on the same direct line file 💪🏻
Am I understanding this correctly --
I am using a Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen interface which is +12.5 dbu at Gain 0
So following your advice , I would have 12.5 + 0.79 = 13.29
So I have interface on Min (instrument input full left)
However I am using the Brit8000 amp which your chart states has an amp input value of -12
This ends up being
Focusrite Gain (minimum- far left on dial)
Amplitube Iinput gain = 13.29 - 12.00 = 1.29 on the Amplitube Input Slider
This is almost a "wash" cancelling each other out.
Is this correct ?
This is a pretty weak input signal
With a Fender Strat the interface input HALOS barely light green at all unless picking hard.
Many passages are played without the Focusrite Instrument input lights turning green at all.
And this is almost no added input gain inside Amplitube
The resulting INPUT signal is only about 45-50% in the software
Did I understand your instructions properly ?
This seems to produce a very thin tone and weak touch response -------- the tone seems much fuller and the "feel" is more chunky if the Amplitube input gain is at 0.0 and the Focusrite gain is adjusted to the point where the input is GREEN .. but never crosses into orange or red at all
Thanks for your reply and feedback on my question ?
Hi,
i already answered your question on TGP but i will do it here again so other people can read it too.
Yes, looks like you are doing everything correctly.
That the numbers nearly cancelling each other out is only the combination from your interface and the Brit8000 Model.
If you use a different interface or amp model this number could look completely different.
I had to find a way thats useable for all kind of different interface/amp model combination.
So, even if it sounds "stupid" because the numbers are cancelling each other out in this example, i think overall its the best and easiest way.
Even if your lights on the Interface doesn't light up, your Input level is still not THAT low.
As long as you don't get any problems with high noisefloor (which should not be the case) you are fine.
I think -12 is pretty close to the response of a real JCM800. Of course it sounded fatter and louder with your "regular" gain staging but not accurate to the real deal and of course, if you want the same amount of gain as before you would need to compensate with the gain knob on the actual amp (or with a pedal, etc...). Maybe you also need to play with the output to match the loudness you had before. (with a different amp model it can be exactly the other way around)
You can think of it like you always played with a boost pedal (with unknown settings) in front of your amp. Now, with this method you removed this pedal. ;)
(Of course if you liked the sound, feel free to add it back in, but know you know (and see) this is the sound of a fender into a jcm800 with a clean boost in front and not the amp alone)
Hope i could help :)
haha ..exactly thts what i thought after this math ..here in Dr Z we were adding the gain so it was sounding nice in demo ..but what if we have to minus the gain values as in your case of amp chosen ..The gain will be nearly zero producing very weak sound . Seems really confusing regarding what we are trying to achieve .... Pls explain to me also what you ve understood so far from this video. Cheers !
@@07dhiraj
We try to achieve to get the correct response from the amp model, when you set your gain to, lets say 4, you should get the same amount of gain in amplitube as with the real amp. The goal is not to boost every amp so it has more gain as the real counterpart (or before calibration).
Because it seems that each amp model is calibrated differently, we need different values for different models.
@@matthiasmuller7380 yep got it .. after calibrating to 1 V , 0 dbFS we can anyway later increase gain frm amp knobs instead of messing with interface gain 👍👍🙏
damn why such a good tutorial only have this viewer
"What has the room mics to do with a realistic responce from the amp? " Nothing and nobody said it will. You're reading wayyy too much into this bro. The room mics is an example of how AT5 becomes more responsive and changes are more apparent once you have a hot enough input signal. When your input is too low, it's less apparent what center of speaker vs edge of speaker mic'ing does and stereo speaker spread is less apparent within AT5. In other words, it livens things up within AT5. The only thing AT5 makers tell you is don't clip your interface. Even their own presets are all over the map. This is a journey everyone must take on their own and one size doesn't fit all.
Man, I just have no time or patience for "this rocket science" trickery.... Ik is out my options right now.
Basically just follow your ear
Until sounds good because what people assume sounds good is subjective
I agree that good tone is very subjective. Thats the reason i said in the beginning of the video that this video is NOT about showing how to get "good tone".
Your approach is fine if you just want to achieve some tones you are happy with and don't care if the actual amp would be even close to it (or you know exactly how all the different amps react and know what to expect from them).
But then,.... IK's marketing claims that they have the "most realistic amp sim", they have officialy licenced amps and they recreate the picture of the real amp on their GUI to push this marketing strategy.
If it's not their goal to make a faithful emulation of the real amp, then why would all this even matter? (It would only be very confusing, right?)
(One) Problem is that a lot of people buy amplitube because they want to explore all the different amps and see how they sound and react (without owning the actual amp). but going after your approach means that they have to be very familliar with the real amp at first, before they can get a realistic response from the amplitube model. This leads to people thinking that you always have to push "amp x" with an distortion pedal and crank the gain to get enough distortion. Or other way around, they think "amp y" is not capable of a clean tone, even with gain at ~1. Both is probably not true with the real amp.
Now back to the "good tone topic":
With this method you will have a starting point how the real amp will react and also what impact it makes when you change guitar, pickup height etc. .
After that its completly up to you what guitar you use, if or what pedals you use, how you set the settings on the amp, how you place the mics, etc.,etc.... .
These should be the things to craft your tone and in my opinion this is a fun process. Fiddling around with input gain and hoping that it's right is not very fun (in my opinion).
a me non funziona .
I cant speak Italien. What does not work?
praticamente mi rimangono tutti gli amplificatori puliti con un rumore di fondo impressionante, neanche se alzo il gain al massimo della mia presonus68C fa tutto quel rumore. tu hai fatto un tutorIal ben definito , non capisco dove sbaglio. sulle specificeh tecniche mi da questo :
Line Inputs Maximum Level
+22 dBu (balanced, Minimum Gain)
@@robik8652
You want to use the Instrument Input on your Interface, not the Line input. (Even with active Pickups)
Inst Input specs for your Interface are:
Maximum Level: +15 dBu (unbalanced, min gain)
If you do this correctly there should not be much noise/hum/hiss added from the interface itself. But there could be other reasons like grounding issues, etc. .
Also the amp models itself are adding Noise, but thats not really in our hand to change.
@@matthiasmuller7380grazie mille ci proverò.
I have the axe io one and it says -24 dbu is this correct?
Welp I know what I’m gonna be doing for a few hours tonight. Again, no writing just fiddling.
Great this amp sims init. Makes it so much easier 🙄🤣
@@jameslightningapplebydo huh?
my easy way is just crank up my audio interface gain knob at 11 o'clock
did you even watch the video?
Interface gain to Zero.
Input level of Amplitube to MAX
You can't use it wrong.This is Amplitube 5 and you can't expect super quality.This is ONLY Amplitube 5.This is not the best amp sim in the world.This is an average sound people.That is that.I prefer single amps from different amps maker.One good amp is better than all Amplitube.
ok
This is like saying "you can't gain stage wrong... levels are levels"
i think you're missing the point of this video...which is very helpful