Fantastic, *bows to your knowledge*, just what I've been looking for, very clearly demonstrated, your grasp of English is probably better than some English people, keep passing on your knowledge, best wishes from Scotland 🙏🏻
Thank you, I just got a 70mm for my birthday and can't wait to start using it. I have used Stanley planes all my life and am very interested in trying this new system.
Thank you for this. Your English was great and the drawings are very helpful! Your channel keeps popping up for me and I've watched every video it has offered so I've subscribed. Keep up the great work.
Felicitaciones, por tu video. Tu video me permitió conocer un poco más de la carpintería japonesa. Congratulations, for your video. Your video allowed me to learn a little more about Japanese carpentry.
Nice video. You explained it well. What also helps in setting up Japanese planers is the book by Mr. Toshio Odate. The book is called >The Tools of the Japanese Carpenter
First, thank you. This is the first I have seen with detailed explanations. The drawings are also excellent to understand. Only confused on one point. When you show the drawing of the three Patterns, it seems you are doing Pattern 2, two points. However what is the difference between the patterns and how would they be used for different Kanna setups? Keep up the great work and thank you.
Temuba ; Let me help the author. Some patterns the author showed us means we choose appropriate sole shape depending on shaving finish we want. If we are doing coarse shave, we usually take his pattern 2 or 3. Sole head will be taken out, and hollow btwn 1-2 will be deeper. In this case, blade edge will be slightly or more rounded. When we shave very fine surface for final finish, we usually take his pattern 1, which is 3 point touch, and make shallow hollowed sole. For the finishing, blade will be sharpened straight, but usually only two corner edges will be rounded to prevent leaving cutting lines. For more details, you can watch an author “tracestudy” but their tutorials are in Japanese.
Thank you, your explanation makes better sense. I purchased a used Kanna from Japan. I need to restore it and use it as a finishing plane using Pattern 1. I have watched all the case study videos and have understood most of it, despite the language barrier. However, I am trying to see the difference between Pattern 2 and 3, both use the 2 point method. Only difference I can see between them is the sole clearance in the drawing. Seems Pattern 3 has more clearance than Pattern 2. Any explanation for this? Again thank you.
Temuba ; If I didn’t misunderstand the author’s intention, the difference btwn pattern 2 and 3 is the way of shaping depths/clearances of removed sole. In general, coarse shaving plane sole is curved deeper, both in head and bottom(finer the tuning, sole will be closer to dead flat). But in this case it seems almost same. I saw a difference to make touching point “foot” of each Kanna sole. For pattern 2 he did, “foot” of the sole was clearly “stepped” in rectangular shape and perhaps it was an easier way for him when using sandpaper on a glass plate. In pattern 3, I can see the “foot” is an end of “slope” which is gradually lead to the middle of the sole. I myself think that we can take a method we like, but for a beginner, pattern 2 may be easier to try and to maintain during use. Anyway, controlling the shape of the sole is critical for use of wooden Kanna body. Wood is easier to be worn out than metal, and wood tend to “move” depending on working environment such as temperature and humidity. So wooden Kanna requires frequent tuning, but on the other hand great advantage of wood is, easier to reshape than steel. I hope I could help you understand the author’s intention of Kanna tuning demos. Thanks.
Hi, thank you for creatig this video I learned a lot. But my kanna blade is sticking out way too far on one side which results in unequal shavings. Can you help me how to even this out? Much appreciate a reply from you! Thanks
Hi, got a Janna smoothing plane and messed it up I shaved the dai down so the chip breaker and blade fall down too far, how can I sort this out would you cut the blade down or use paper to shim the blade tighter
Hi, very interesting video. Question about tools in this video. on 7.16 you checked light clearance of two points with wooden ruler (not sure i called it correctly - in some shops it called Straight Edge). Is it made by yourself? If yes - do you have plans to make video how to make it?
Hello, I'm Thai and also have a new Kanna. I have a question. Is it necessary to tapping out the Kanna blade for the new Kanna? Thanks for the informative video.
Thank you. I understood that. It is not necessary to tapping out 'Ura-Dashi' for a new blade. It is necessary for a old blade. It is difficult to explain Ura-Dasi. I will share a video of Ura-dashi some other time.
Nottanat-san, let me write some supplements. We tap or hit Kanna blades for Ura-Dashi mainly in two cases. One case is just like the author said, re-shaping the back(hard steel) side of blade. Kanna back side is hollow ground as you know, and after repeated sharpening the leading edge of back side will be gone, so we hit surface side of blade to bend the edge, and re-shape it to make flat edge again. Another case is, to start using bland new blade and it happens for professional users. Professional people tend to prefer preparing and tuning their blade precisely as they like, so they buy unfinished (not ready to use) Kanna from bladesmith. This kind of raw tools need to be shaped and sharpened to create right cutting edge before using, and sometimes they need to spend some time for Ura-Dashi and some other initial shaping work. One additional case we hit new blade may be, when a newly purchased Kanna was very poorly made and needed tuning before use. Unfortunately it happens some time when we tried to save our money to buy a tool...(I did it ...). Thanks.
Thank you for such a beautiful explanation !!!
Fantastic, *bows to your knowledge*, just what I've been looking for, very clearly demonstrated, your grasp of English is probably better than some English people, keep passing on your knowledge, best wishes from Scotland 🙏🏻
Very clear and beautifully presented, thank you. Your English is fine, please make more videos to educate us on the various types of kanna.
Thank you for showing us your technique for correcting the dai. It was very helpful.
Simplest yet most detailed, thank you so much 😃
Brilliant!!! As an English man, captions were spot on!
Molti ringraziamenti Signore. From Sardinya (Italy)
Thank you, I just got a 70mm for my birthday and can't wait to start using it. I have used Stanley planes all my life and am very interested in trying this new system.
有難うございます。今までモヤモヤしていたところが良く理解できました。
Thank you for this video. Thank you for the work of explaining things so clearly
Thank you for this. Your English was great and the drawings are very helpful! Your channel keeps popping up for me and I've watched every video it has offered so I've subscribed. Keep up the great work.
this is such a good video!! Thank you
Thank You very much 🙏
Nice video. Thanks!
Very good! Thank you.
Thank you for your explanation, very understanding for explaining the concept and will keep this video for future reference, all the best...
すごいです 外国人さんにわかりやすく説明していて
The final surface of the wood is so smooth!
Superb video. Thanks.
Very good explained.
Felicitaciones, por tu video. Tu video me permitió conocer un poco más de la carpintería japonesa.
Congratulations, for your video. Your video allowed me to learn a little more about Japanese carpentry.
Gracias, from spain
Thank you
Great tips! Now I can tune up mine. By the way your English is perfect.
Thanks.
Thank you.
Thank you, grazie!
thanks nice video very well done
Thanks man, this is a really useful video
Grazie grazie 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 Fabrizio 🇮🇹
Thank you, well done
Nice video.
You explained it well.
What also helps in setting up Japanese planers is the book by Mr. Toshio Odate. The book is called >The Tools of the Japanese Carpenter
Grazie....from italy
First, thank you. This is the first I have seen with detailed explanations. The drawings are also excellent to understand.
Only confused on one point. When you show the drawing of the three Patterns, it seems you are doing Pattern 2, two points. However what is the difference between the patterns and how would they be used for different Kanna setups?
Keep up the great work and thank you.
Temuba ;
Let me help the author.
Some patterns the author showed us means we choose appropriate sole shape depending on shaving finish we want.
If we are doing coarse shave, we usually take his pattern 2 or 3. Sole head will be taken out, and hollow btwn 1-2 will be deeper. In this case, blade edge will be slightly or more rounded.
When we shave very fine surface for final finish, we usually take his pattern 1, which is 3 point touch, and make shallow hollowed sole. For the finishing, blade will be sharpened straight, but usually only two corner edges will be rounded to prevent leaving cutting lines.
For more details, you can watch an author “tracestudy” but their tutorials are in Japanese.
Thank you, your explanation makes better sense. I purchased a used Kanna from Japan. I need to restore it and use it as a finishing plane using Pattern 1.
I have watched all the case study videos and have understood most of it, despite the language barrier.
However, I am trying to see the difference between Pattern 2 and 3, both use the 2 point method. Only difference I can see between them is the sole clearance in the drawing. Seems Pattern 3 has more clearance than Pattern 2. Any explanation for this? Again thank you.
Temuba ;
If I didn’t misunderstand the author’s intention, the difference btwn pattern 2 and 3 is the way of shaping depths/clearances of removed sole.
In general, coarse shaving plane sole is curved deeper, both in head and bottom(finer the tuning, sole will be closer to dead flat). But in this case it seems almost same.
I saw a difference to make touching point “foot” of each Kanna sole. For pattern 2 he did, “foot” of the sole was clearly “stepped” in rectangular shape and perhaps it was an easier way for him when using sandpaper on a glass plate. In pattern 3, I can see the “foot” is an end of “slope” which is gradually lead to the middle of the sole. I myself think that we can take a method we like, but for a beginner, pattern 2 may be easier to try and to maintain during use.
Anyway, controlling the shape of the sole is critical for use of wooden Kanna body. Wood is easier to be worn out than metal, and wood tend to “move” depending on working environment such as temperature and humidity. So wooden Kanna requires frequent tuning, but on the other hand great advantage of wood is, easier to reshape than steel.
I hope I could help you understand the author’s intention of Kanna tuning demos. Thanks.
@@gerogudo thanks for your explanation.
絵も字もとても上手でとても説明図が見やすいですね！私は電動工具に頼りがちなので、鉋などの大工道具を使いこなせる方に憧れます✨
ところで英語は何かで翻訳されたんですか？元々お得意なんですか？？
私が電動工具をあまり使わないのは埃と音が苦手だからなんです。
電動工具を使用中は基本的に息を止めてますのでたまに窒息しそうになります。
すいません。あまり手道具にこだわって、な感じじゃなくて。。。
英語はですね。ほとんどWeblioという翻訳サイトを使ってます。
この翻訳作業が超〜〜〜〜〜〜絶！面倒なんです、けど、話が長くなりそうなのでやめておきますね。
確かに電動工具は埃や音がすごいですよね(;_;)
私も冬場は室内でDIYすることがありますが、埃のせいかよく体調を崩したりします。
私もたまに外国の方からのコメントに翻訳サイトを使って返信することがありますが
うまく伝わっているか不安になります。
確かにこれだけの内容を全て翻訳するのはかなり大変そうですね😅
でもこの動画がきっかけで、また外国の方から依頼がありそう！
Hi, thank you for creatig this video I learned a lot. But my kanna blade is sticking out way too far on one side which results in unequal shavings. Can you help me how to even this out? Much appreciate a reply from you! Thanks
こんばんは。素晴らしい企画なので、少々勝手ながら横入りをいたしました。私も普段使いの鉋の下端はサンドペーパーです^_^。
ありがとうございます。
私は英語が得意ではないので、非常に助かります。
あまりに的確な説明で何も言うことありませんでした。
Just as you say. I say nothing. 、、、でいいのかな？
Hi, got a Janna smoothing plane and messed it up I shaved the dai down so the chip breaker and blade fall down too far, how can I sort this out would you cut the blade down or use paper to shim the blade tighter
I use paper or paper masking tape.
useful video ruclips.net/video/JDHqMEAaRSc/видео.html
self-build.林久 thanks dude, appreciate it
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Hi, very interesting video. Question about tools in this video. on 7.16 you checked light clearance of two points with wooden ruler (not sure i called it correctly - in some shops it called Straight Edge). Is it made by yourself? If yes - do you have plans to make video how to make it?
Thanks for watching.
I made that wooden ruler. I have already uploaded the video.
ruclips.net/video/nzr1tmkISlY/видео.html
@@fareastwood thank you a lot. joined to the channel couple months ago - missed that video.
Hello, I'm Thai and also have a new Kanna.
I have a question.
Is it necessary to tapping out the Kanna blade for the new Kanna?
Thanks for the informative video.
I am sorry I don't understand 'tapping out'.
When I finished using Kanna, I loosen a blade.
I mean Ura-Dashi, hammering the blade. I used to watch the Japanese Master doing it on RUclips.
Thank you. I understood that.
It is not necessary to tapping out 'Ura-Dashi' for a new blade.
It is necessary for a old blade.
It is difficult to explain Ura-Dasi. I will share a video of Ura-dashi some other time.
self-build.林久 Ok, Thank you very much, Sir.
Nottanat-san, let me write some supplements.
We tap or hit Kanna blades for Ura-Dashi mainly in two cases.
One case is just like the author said, re-shaping the back(hard steel) side of blade. Kanna back side is hollow ground as you know, and after repeated sharpening the leading edge of back side will be gone, so we hit surface side of blade to bend the edge, and re-shape it to make flat edge again.
Another case is, to start using bland new blade and it happens for professional users. Professional people tend to prefer preparing and tuning their blade precisely as they like, so they buy unfinished (not ready to use) Kanna from bladesmith. This kind of raw tools need to be shaped and sharpened to create right cutting edge before using, and sometimes they need to spend some time for Ura-Dashi and some other initial shaping work.
One additional case we hit new blade may be, when a newly purchased Kanna was very poorly made and needed tuning before use. Unfortunately it happens some time when we tried to save our money to buy a tool...(I did it ...).
Thanks.
だいぶ外国圏に寄せましたね…
何かきっかけでも？
フランス人の視聴者さんからメールで直接質問を受けたことがきっかけです。
海外の動画で日本の鉋がよく紹介されていることを以前から嬉しく思っていましたが、
皆さん情報不足で鉋の調整がうまくできていないようでした。
それで日本語の分かる自分（←日本人なので当たり前）がいろいろ調べて紹介すれば役に立つかなぁと思ったからです。
日本人が知らないうちに日本の大工道具は世界に広まってます。
鉋を手作りしちゃう人もいますから、驚きです。
self-build.林久
あわあわあわ!!!
こんなに細かく説明いただきありがとうございます！
そういうわけだったんですね…
これからもがんばってください!!!
海外の方に役立つと良いですね！