I see this is a pretty old video, but I just watched, and I wanted to say that your presentation was exceptional. Thank you. I bought one of those Roarocket kits last year, but haven't used it yet. Now, I feel like I'll know what I'm doing.
Thumbs up! You're like the Bob Ross of Woodworking. :-) Also your presentation is very easy to understand and goes through all steps very thoroughly - excellent, thank you!
Love it. I happen to have two large mahogany panels, formerly sliding closet doors, 5mm ? thick, that can used as veneer, especially now that I know about this cheap vac press.
REALLY ENJOYED THE VIDEO. IT WAS VERY HELPFUL. I BUILT A PROJECT THIS WINTER THAT REQUIRED SOMETHING SIMILAR. I PLACED A SHOP MADE VENEER ON ONE SIDE OF 1/4 IN PLY IN A SIMILAR MANNER EXCEPT I USED CLAMPS ETC. THE NEXT MORNING UPON RELEASE THE PANEL WAS CUPPED. . I HAD TO REMAKE AND ON MY SECOND ATTEMPT I PLACED A THICK VENEER ON BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME AND THIS SOLVED THE PROBLEM. DOES YOUR PROCESS PREVENT CUPPING IF ONLY ONE SIDE IS TO BE VENEERED. THANKS DOC MEBANE NC
Unique solution & fun to watch. I'm new to the craft and find my knowledge increasing with the answers i receive for each ignorant question I ask. Why not contact cement on both surfaces just like when securing laminate to an MDF substrate? I've just learned that MDF is readily available in 1/8 and 1/4 inch thickness. Would not an MDF substrate be more stable than a thin ply substrate in terms of wood movement (as mentioned in a couple of other comments I read here). Thank you, in advance, for helping me learn by providing answer to my questions. -Woodprobie
use a shop vac with a hose approx the size of the valve. It will pull the bag down enough that you can follow with the hand pump. You will only do about 10-15 strokes to have a vacuum.
Unless there is some additional information that you haven't provided to us, I see one significant problem. Your panel will warp because you failed to consider the imbalance which adding such a thick veneer piece to only one face causes. You need to ensure that whatever veneer you add to one face of your substrate, you add to the opposite face. The rest of the information in your video is perfectly fine.
Spot on Marty, in fact in the last shot as he holds the panel, you can see it's already warped in a way that the veneer side has expanded and bowed out. I guess if he puts it in the grooves of the door frame, it will pull it straight, but if anyone wants to use the panel without a frame (as most people honestly do these days), you have to have an equal veneer on the opposite side, and preferably have the substrate thicker than the thickness of the 2 veneers combined, so that the substrate is keeping the veneers stable and dictates their movement, rather than the other way around.
Hmmmm. Wouldn't it be possible to do two veneered panels at once? Place one veneered panel face down in the bag. Put the MDF platen in the bag. Then position the second veneered panel face up on top of the MDF. Use the netting on the top panel and the bottom panel. Seal the bag. Draw the vacuum. You get two veneered panels instead of just one. Also, regarding the Shop Vac ... seems like you could arrange a small manual "valve" to control the rate that the majority of the air is drawn out of the vacuum bag --- then switch over to the hand pump to finish off.
Could this type of idea work for a picture framer looking to stick down prints? I just can't warrant the £2000 it'd cost to buy a free standing vacuum bench....
All looks a pretty Micky mouse operation it's just a infomercial to sell a cheap product and no balancing veneer ? A good quality mahogany veneer board would have been quicker, cheaper and a all round better job
I see this is a pretty old video, but I just watched, and I wanted to say that your presentation was exceptional. Thank you. I bought one of those Roarocket kits last year, but haven't used it yet. Now, I feel like I'll know what I'm doing.
Thumbs up! You're like the Bob Ross of Woodworking. :-)
Also your presentation is very easy to understand and goes through all steps very thoroughly - excellent, thank you!
Love it. I happen to have two large mahogany panels, formerly sliding closet doors, 5mm ? thick, that can used as veneer, especially now that I know about this cheap vac press.
Hooray for Roarockit !!
REALLY ENJOYED THE VIDEO. IT WAS VERY HELPFUL. I BUILT A PROJECT THIS WINTER THAT REQUIRED SOMETHING SIMILAR. I PLACED A SHOP MADE VENEER ON ONE SIDE OF 1/4 IN PLY IN A SIMILAR MANNER EXCEPT I USED CLAMPS ETC. THE NEXT MORNING UPON RELEASE THE PANEL WAS CUPPED. . I HAD TO REMAKE AND ON MY SECOND ATTEMPT I PLACED A THICK VENEER ON BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME AND THIS SOLVED THE PROBLEM. DOES YOUR PROCESS PREVENT CUPPING IF ONLY ONE SIDE IS TO BE VENEERED.
THANKS
DOC
MEBANE NC
I loved this video - great idea. Does a lack of oxygen in the vacuum bag effect the cure time of the wood glue?
Unique solution & fun to watch. I'm new to the craft and find my knowledge increasing with the answers i receive for each ignorant question I ask. Why not contact cement on both surfaces just like when securing laminate to an MDF substrate? I've just learned that MDF is readily available in 1/8 and 1/4 inch thickness. Would not an MDF substrate be more stable than a thin ply substrate in terms of wood movement (as mentioned in a couple of other comments I read here). Thank you, in advance, for helping me learn by providing answer to my questions. -Woodprobie
Why use that hand pump when there's a shop vac in the corner?
By removing the air more gently, you have less chance of the wood veneer shifting whilst it is still wet and not fully clamped in place.
Thank you so much.
good job and thanks for the tip
use a shop vac with a hose approx the size of the valve. It will pull the bag down enough that you can follow with the hand pump. You will only do about 10-15 strokes to have a vacuum.
Unless there is some additional information that you haven't provided to us, I see one significant problem. Your panel will warp because you failed to consider the imbalance which adding such a thick veneer piece to only one face causes. You need to ensure that whatever veneer you add to one face of your substrate, you add to the opposite face.
The rest of the information in your video is perfectly fine.
I was thinking that or the wood will crack and split because the ply doesn't move as much as the timber.
Spot on Marty, in fact in the last shot as he holds the panel, you can see it's already warped in a way that the veneer side has expanded and bowed out. I guess if he puts it in the grooves of the door frame, it will pull it straight, but if anyone wants to use the panel without a frame (as most people honestly do these days), you have to have an equal veneer on the opposite side, and preferably have the substrate thicker than the thickness of the 2 veneers combined, so that the substrate is keeping the veneers stable and dictates their movement, rather than the other way around.
Cool love this idea, a more affordable way of veneering. Despite what some other nayh sayers have to say!
Hmmmm. Wouldn't it be possible to do two veneered panels at once? Place one veneered panel face down in the bag. Put the MDF platen in the bag. Then position the second veneered panel face up on top of the MDF. Use the netting on the top panel and the bottom panel. Seal the bag. Draw the vacuum. You get two veneered panels instead of just one.
Also, regarding the Shop Vac ... seems like you could arrange a small manual "valve" to control the rate that the majority of the air is drawn out of the vacuum bag --- then switch over to the hand pump to finish off.
Glue looks really light - more like Titebond I or II - my Titebond III is a lot darker than what you applied. Hmm
Could this type of idea work for a picture framer looking to stick down prints? I just can't warrant the £2000 it'd cost to buy a free standing vacuum bench....
get 30 mil bag from veneer supplies online and buy a vac pump from harbor freight for real cheap
What, $60 for a plastic bag. On eBay you can get a pump for £85.
All looks a pretty Micky mouse operation it's just a infomercial to sell a cheap product and no balancing veneer ? A good quality mahogany veneer board would have been quicker, cheaper and a all round better job
The Roarockit seals are not much good.
cool bag. WAY overpriced.
Sorrry----way too much hand pumping for me. Spend a few extra bucks and get a proper air compressor setup.