TUTORIAL: About & How to use a Cheap LM2596S Buck Converter / Battery Charger Module - Arduino
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- Опубликовано: 9 ноя 2017
- ATTENTION! THIS VIDEO IS GOING TO BE RE-UPLOADED SOON AS THE QUALITY IS TERRIBLE.
A tutorial on how to use the module, explanation of all three pots, and with demonstrations. This module is dual role.
To elaborate on setting OK indicator with resistors... If you were to set the voltage to 4.2V, and limit the current to 1A, and short the output with a 100ohm resistor, this should draw a current of 42MA. If you then turn the middle pot until the LED turns off/on, his may then set the OK LED to 42MA. When you then remove the resistor and apply the battery, it may indicate when the battery draws less than 42MA. I've not tested this though.
Thanks to Karl Ng for requesting this video. :-) 
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A great, informative clear tutorial with NO annoying music. Subscribed immediately. THANK YOU
Thanks for that! I ordered 5 of them and they seem to be fine for controlling the water pump on an aquarium and the brightness of LEDs. Good to find useful information about it - couldn't figure out what the middle one did!
That was an excellent, clear, concise video, thanks!
You could measure the O.K cut off limit by creating a controlled short with a resistor.
If you calculate the power consumption of the resistor and then adjust the pot to just after the O.K turns on, you know the pot is set to turn on the O.K circuit when the value of the short is reached.
For example, at 4.2v, using an 84 ohm resistor would create a 50mA short. So, short the output terminals with an 84 ohm resistor and then adjust the put until the o.k light just turns on and then leave it there. You have now set a 50mA cut-off O.K limit.
Hi Antony and Maxint,
Both modules are same, you can use them as battery charger and/or led driver, it is based on cc/cv wich is common for both applications and more...useful and helpful as usual, godspeed Antony...
Thanks Rafik. It's just that the LEDs seem to be switched around with some boards. Antony...
Bro is super excellent i understood everything thank you, and now I know how to see the amps with the voltmeter, thanks for that too 😅
Great video. Maybe the OK indicator along with a transistor could operate a relay to cut the input supply, etc.
Great video mate ! Quite useful
Thanks for the explanation
I have this one too. According to the product picture at my supplier on Ali, the CH-led indicates Charged (not charging). The OK-led means that output power is on. The middle potmeter is to set the charged level, so when the current gets below the set level charging is done. The unit switches then output off, the OK-led dims and the Charged-led turns on. According the description the full level is normally set to 0.1 times the charging level.
Hey Mr Maxint! That is not true of my module. On my module, 'CH' means 'charging' and 'OK' means 'charged'. The charged level is set my the middle pot as you described. The LEDs on my module are reverse to your documentation! You can see this at the end of the video. :-)
Hi Antony - Quite interesting indeed. This is the one I bought:
s.aliexpress.com/bauMnYBz
Your explanation seems to be the reverse of my description. I guess I should not assume my description is correct and carefully test my module before using it. Thanks!
The same goes for me... I may have a messed up module! This has happened before where the makers have made it very weird. lol
Maxint R&D! Lol, look at this! ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1bbgvKXXXXXc6XFXXq6xXFXXXn/10PCS-LOT-LM2596S-LM2596-DC-DC-1-25-30V-LED-Driver-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply.jpg It is clear that the makers aren't fussy. This is a hybrid of both of our modules!
Quite hilarious! Normally you would want output to switch off when the Li-ion battery is full to prevent damage. The middle potmeter should control output as well as the leds. Couldn't you find any setting where your module switches off? If I find the time I will hook up mine to see when it switches on/off.
That middle pot on mine is for charging off a car battery and you set it to stop draining the car battery before it's dead for example 11v regardless if your 4.2v, 8.4v or even 12.6v battery pack is fully charged or not. I have a bunch of these including buck/boost and they all do the same plus you can charge a 24v off of a 12v battery using this method, but this could have a different function, I don't know and that's for charging off a larger battery, but if you're using this as a power supply it may have a different function or no use at all. Lithium cells don't like a float charge. It's normal and typical for these converters to automatically terminate the charge of voltage and current once finished. Maybe this one is used for the LiPo cell if it drains down to 2.8v or 3v to restart the charge cycle, and if you can heatsink that chip it will allow for say a 3amp output, just a guess.
I appreciate this video a lot. Hope you are doing well Antony!
I'm doing good. I'll be back in February probably!
Detailed very explicitly, , congratulations. From Romania, JohnnyPS.
I have been looking for the specific way to set the max (constant) current for charging. In the video did you use "and short the output with a 100ohm resistor" or just connected the multimeter in current measuring mode (in series) ?
Think you will find that when you initially set the output to 8.4V via the multimeter and then added the battery, unit would read battery voltage which would be lower.
Adjust the charge current to maximum, as the voltage rises to the set level, unit senses and trips the charge as Lithium normally require a voltage dependant charge NOT constant current.
A bit of both really, Li-ion charges at 1-2c so 1000mah would be 1-2a for the cc value, then when it is drawing less then the set cc value is sits at 4.2v untill it reaches 1/10th of the set cc value and then it's fully charged.
A few corrections that are posted on the Bangood and AliExpress listings, and are reflected on your video:
1. The protection rectifier (labeled M4) is a simple silicon rectifier rated at 1 Amp (max recurrent reverse voltage = 400V), and protects all but the input capacitor. So, if connected with reverse voltage, the input capacitor will blow, but the rest of the circuit will be saved.
2. There is a limiting factor to the input voltage. The websites indicate a maximum input voltage of 35V. However, the LM78L05 regulator that powers the LM358 has a maximum input voltage of 30V, and is connected directly to the safe side of the protection rectifier. Therefore, the module input voltage range must be 7-30V, as the minimum voltage for that regulator to operate is 7V.
That explains a lot. I am running it right now at input 32V output 29.3V 1.2A. It makes a terrible high pitched noise and runs waaay to hot.
As you stated in point 1, the capacitor blow out on 1 stepDown module after reverse voltage connection. yeah my bad. Should have been more careful...
I solddered a new capacitor, unfortunatly, the module is not working as it should. It just light the Green led and do not decrease the voltage as intended, and output is 0 v. ah the module is XL4015. Any idea how to fix this module?? maybe change the main XL4015 chip??
yeah I know, those modules are very cheap, so why bother to repear and not simply buy another, reason is that it takes a lot for it to be delivered to me... sometime more than 2 months....
Thx
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Asger Vestbjerg Thanks, I'm not happy about this video. It rendered out horribly. I don't know why. I seem to have deleted the source files. :(
you should always have meters when adjusting the pots lol, CV is used to set the max voltage allowed, CC sets the max current allowed, using as a voltage regulator or charger you should never turn those pot without meter instruments hehehe, CC can set the current regardless of voltage as long as it doens not go over the preset voltage
using it as a charger, set the max voltage which the battery is fully charged, your example is 4.2 volt because of the lithium battery so it never goes over that voltage that would harm the battery,
then set you charge current as constant current, so the charger will keep a constant current safe current when the battery is not full at 4.2v, the battery is always lower than 4.2 when its not full anyway. the CV setting will protect the max voltage it will reach
test charging a non full battery and monitor the current and max voltage you set, when the battery gets full 4.2 volts it will soon decrease the current just to keep the voltage from going over 4.2volts,
the middle pot is just for the LED indicator so even without a meter, the LED changes to OK, so only turn that middle POT when the battery is full, at 4.2v and 1/10th the current limit you set. for 1A, the current would be 100mah, you can use any ratio you want, example 1/2 or 1 amp set. i dont think the moddle pot will stop the buck, it only to set the light indicator
Very Good...!!!
Informative + Clear and friendly explanations, without crappy music, thats a great content dude!!
I got the same as yours:
CH >> Charging/Blue Led
OK >> Charge/ red led
Kind of confusing since usually Red led is used for charging and Blue is for Battery Full/ Charging Completed.
I am gona reverse those 2 Leds
.
Subscribed immediately. I cheched your channel and found out that you test and explain out how to use a lot off modules, which is great because they mostly, comes without proper user manual! keep the great work 😉
for setting the cutout amps, the limmiter , the middle screw
set your last screw to the value you want your mid potentiometer to be
then set the mid one to that value, when the leds switch you know
then set the last potentio for max current to where you want it
This is not for Li-Ion or Li-Po batteries. It's for constant voltage batteries. You don't charge your lithium batteries at constant voltage. Don't do this! This is actually pretty dangerous!
Una pregunta tengo una duda despues del ajuste del potenciometro para calibrar el led de bateria llena cargada realmente el modulo corta la carga hacia la bateria osea deja ya de cargar o continua con una carga a muy baja corriente para mantenerla cargada saludos buen vidieo
You are assuming too many things, without actually measuring them . The module´s purpose is to charge with constant current between a maximum and minimum battery voltage. Then maintain a floating voltage.
Hi please could you elaborate on that. I'm confused.
Surely that is the function of the voltage adjustment?
Please explain more.
thanks
How does the voltage and Amperage change when introducing more cells in series and parallel?
i've found them sensitive to power lead placement. Seems its important to separate supply leads and o/put leads or the module oscillates badly(audibly).
Hi,
can I somehow connect 2 source inputs to it?
For example if I'd like to drive something via buck converter but via:
1. Solar panel
2. 12V car output
Would that work?
Tnx!
If we parallel connect two of theese units in cv mode both adjusted same voltage, then do we double output current ?
Can you set the current lower than 1amp ?
Like .15ma?
Thank you
doesn't go below 50mA (0.05A)
i dont understand .... next i set this version with 3 trimmers at 14V or 12v i can cut current off?
I WILL TEST @ POST A REVIEW IF THE CURRENT IS CUT OFF BECAUSE ___IMPORTANT!!! ___ "Li-ion cannot absorb overcharge. When fully charged, the charge current must be cut off. A continuous trickle charge would cause plating of metallic lithium and compromise safety. To minimize stress, keep the lithium-ion battery at the peak cut-off as short as possible."
The "OK" light doesn't just "come on". When the current reaches the value set by the second potentiometer it kills the current output.
Thank you! Question answered
Nope, does not.
It's not daft having a 35V rated capacitor on the output. The higher the headroom on the capacitor rating, the better. For example, a 100V capacitor would be no detriment.
What amperage does it still output once it says "ok"?
around 40-50mA. watch the video til the end.....
The annoying thing with this module is that it seems not switching off the output when the current threshold is reached. So a li ion battery will continue to be charged unless you unplug it manually. As far as I know, this is not good neither safe for li ion batteries. Can we modify the circuit to enable this auto cut off feature?!
I read somewhere that those module works like that. I means about the cut out VOLTAGE is not present, as battery do not mind that, what is critical to the bat it is amps flow, which this modules cut when the bat is full.
If you connect an ampmeter in serie between the power supply and the module, you wil see an amp flow drain (1A or 1.5A depends from how you set the pot) drain from the main charger, and once the battery is charger, the amp flow drops to around 50mA, which is the minimum used by the module itself, and no more current (Amps) are pomped into your battery.
If you want a Voltage cut off you need to use a delay or a Mosfet.
Can I get fixed "12V" output from 14-20V varying solar panel input using this ?
The plan is to use 18650 batteries (total 6, 3 in series) in series, attached to a balanced charger.
3x18650's will charge to 12.6V when new. With a minimum input of 14V, and output of 12.6V is extremely close to the limits of regulation. LM2596 Saturation voltage (the point where no regulation occurs) is 1.5V. This means that a voltage of 14.1V will eliminate any regulation.
Depending on the current output of the solar panel you might consider a Buck/Boost regulator between the solar panel and the charging module. This will create a constant voltage to the charging module. If you set the output of a Buck/Boost module to 15-18V, the charging module will be happy (the lower the output voltage here, the less boost voltage and current loss). Make sure that the solar panel will supply sufficient current at low voltage output as supply current will decrease as well as voltage. There will also be loss of current in the boost process of the Buck/Boost module, which may be an issue.
@@VideoFlyer10Please explain that to me. 12.6v in series?
@@LEO-xo9cz Each Ion-lithium cell can be charged up to 4.2V. Three in series makes 12.6v.
👌👍
its ok to use it to charge a tablet, I have a windows table that need 5v 2.5a(3.3mm barrel jack), I try a lot of charger even a QC2.0/QC3.0 charger still the tablet did not chrarge while turn on, I looking a best power option to charge my tablet.
Hello Antony. actually i want to know. can i charge COMPUTER UPS BATTERY with this module ?
Learn & Teach probably not ! UPS batteries need current around 8Amps which this device cannot output.
You can put two of these devices in series(output) and adjust the voltage of both the devices to 7v and charge the battery.
For sure you can. Just set the voltage to 14.4V and curent to 0.7 Amps and the battery will charge ok. Verified by months. But I don't know how to use the middle potentiometer in this case, charging a 12V/7Ah UPS battery.
Wait, could this be used as voltage injection tool ?
Like variable bench power supply ?
Yes, but it doesn't have the capacity in terms of amps to be very useful.. from memory, it can barely cope with an amp of current.
When the “ok” led goes on when it hits the limit, does it cut power to the battery?
No, you ll need to include separate system to cut-off when charged
Can I supply 12v in put and out put 2v to charge a motorcycle battery
yes you can
Can this be used to make a taser like a boost converter?
No you need a step up transformer to boost the voltage to thousands of volts.
can you tell me if i need a diode between the output and my 3s lithium cel ? for preventing drain that is ..
Milene De jong a diode doesn't prevent drain, so no.
Sorry Antony, but yes a diode will prevent drain as that is one of the reasons for a diode (the charge only goes one way and not the other). The reason a diode is used in a module like this is so that the charger is not destroyed from back feeding from the battery/s being charged, but most of these types of modules have built-in diodes to prevent a back charge to the module. Some Chinese modules I have found do not have built-in diodes and why they get blown after a charge and being disconnected from the power source while the batteries are still connected to the module. On the other hand, if you use a "not so good" diode, you can still get a drain so in that case you would be correct, but as long as you use a good quality diode, you shouldn't have any at all drain from the batteries because the diode will not allow the charge to flow in the direction that would cause a drain.
you shouldn't charge lithium batteries with this. This is for other constant voltage batteries
Can anyone tell me where to get this exact buck converter? I need adjustable current and voltage, all the ones I have found only have the 1 potentiometer.
www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2596S-DC-DC-LM2577S-Step-Up-Down-Boost-Buck-Voltage-Power-Converter-Module-Non-isolated-Constant/32892519490.html
www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2596-DC-DC-Step-Down-CC-CV-Power-Supply-Module-LED-Driver-Battery-Charger-Adjustable-LM2596S/32943869964.html
Even on eBay... Look for ''lm2596 CV CC''
The capacitors are for decoupling purposes, not for being daft...
This video is titled tutorial, not first impressions, yet I'm watching a first impressions video
I’ve got a 19V 4.74A laptop charger. Can I raise the voltage to 21V and limit current to around 2A with this?
No this is a step down converter
Actually you can but if the module cannot handle the 2 amps you can connect a high power Mosfet on the output.Remember this module has a max output of about 30V. So you can charge a 19V. Batt.I would set the V. to 20V. and the C. to 1A. to be safe.
What is the use of 3rd potentiometer
Prabhask Karjee - From left to right the potmeters are 1: max. voltage, 2: charged level, 3: max current. Next to using it as a charger, the unit is also advertised as a LED-driver, but in that application, the middle potmeter is not used.
@@MaxintRD How do you use number 2? I'm not fully grasping it.
@@LEO-xo9cz - If I remember well you can use it to set the voltage at which the battery is considered charged. When that level is reached it cuts the power.
Can this charge a 4 parallel lithium batteries?
Yes, just limit the current to the maximum allowed or less, I think 2.5A. And Vout = 4.2V.
Can I install it between the controller board and motor...of a R/C Car???
such as...if I use a 9 V battery pack..boot it up to 12 v out put..
I know how it would work with Li io...on the IN put...between battery
and controller ...the voltage dont match on a lot of R'C cars
it'll also be great in the TX....this way you can 1 or 2 cell Li on
Instead of whatever the hell different TX Voltage uses.
It probably safer..The TX isnt drawing a lof of amps...it's needs
proper voltage or what's appliable for that especific TX..
Im sick and tired of all these damn AA and AAA and even 9V batteies
I have to used or different TX ...Using different size and qty.
I have a lot of 18650 i harvest from old laptops...
Just make packs using 2S li ion..then step it up or down
OneEyE Monster hi, why not put the converter between the battery pack and the power point of the controller board of the device.
Hi, Antony. If i need to charge 3 batteries 18650 with series connection (4,2V x 3 = 12,6V). Could it works? The charge will be balanced in each battery?
If you are charging 3 18650 batteries in series, you would need to use a balance charger to keep them balanced while charging.. This module is not a balance charger so no this module will not keep 3 batteries (in series) balanced. Hope that helps
@@Reflections2013 Correct me if I'm wrong but, cells connected in series are working as one battery. Let's take cordless drill batteries for example. Most of them are made of 5 cells, 4.2 volts each which gives a total of 21 volts, therefore their operating voltage is 18-21v, although it's not recommended charging them at 21v. Charging them at 20-20.5 volts will give the battery longer life. Anyway, if you set this module at 20 volts constant and then 300ma constant. It will be able to charge such battery, I don't see where I'm wrong?
@@hristijanivanovski584 You are correct that "cells connected in series are working as one battery". However I was referring to charging 3 or 5 or more batteries in series without a balance module is not recommended or a good idea, and if you try this yourself you will see what I am getting at... If you connect 3 or 5 or more batteries in series that equal - let's say 20 volts, and you put a charge into the "single" battery of 20 volts - yes, they will charge to 20 volts "as a whole," but when you check each of those batteries individually, you will find that they won't each show a charge of their respective max voltage. I hope that made since. But let's say you took 3 18650 batteries that charge to 4.2 volts each when fully charged, and connect them in series - you will have a "single" battery that puts out a total of 12.6 volts right?, ok now connect that "single" 12.6 volt battery to a draw, and let the "single" battery go down to a charge of say 10 volts - now connect a charger (that is putting out 12.6 volts) to the "single" battery that now shows 10 volts, and let them charge back up to 12.6 volts. You will more than likely find that if you now check each individual battery's voltage, the batteries will not show the same voltage because even though the output is showing 12.6 volts for all batteries in the series, the fact that a balance charge was not used, at least one or more of the batteries could have been charged to 5 volts because of the lack of a balance while charging. When charging batteries in a series connection without a BMS (battery management system), the voltage/amps will go to the batteries that take it the best, and the batteries that can't take the amps that the others may, other batteries in the series will have to take more than they should, to compensate for the weak link (the battery that can't take the correct charge).
It is hard to explain the complexity without making is sound more confusing than it needs to be LOL...
So in conclusion, I was just attempting to warn that trying to charge batteries in series without a BMS is not only not recommended, but not a good idea because it is very easy to cause a battery to fail if not balanced properly. And don't forget that cordless drill batteries are made specifically to be charged correctly because they have a built-in BMS to keep each individual cell balanced properly while the charge is taking place so no one cell gets more charge than needed.
I do apologize for being long-winded, but charging batteries in series is much more complex than charging a lot of batteries in parallel, as batteries in parallel feed off of one another so the reason a BMS is not needed in a parallel setup.
@@Reflections2013 Thanks for explaining, I technically assumed that the batteries he wanted to use were pre-balanced and since they are the same make and model I didn't think he would have to balance them. I didn't realize that the drill battery uses BMS I just thought they came balanced lol. I'll dive in the battery world
I am glad it helped a little, and happy I didn't make it sound more confusing. I think Ricardo was asking if the 3 18650's in series would balance themselves while being charged in a series connection - At least that is how I read the comment (with a question mark at the end)... I may have misunderstood him, and thus-lie made my comment to him incorrect LOL... And yes all drill batteries that I know of (at least the ones I have taken apart) have a bms installed to keep all the individual cells balanced, and what I have also discovered even with laptop batteries is that when a drill or laptop battery fails, it is usually because one of the cells becomes defective and causes the other batteries to be ineffective due to a break in the series chain. So any time you see someone throw a drill or laptop battery away, you can retrieve that, take them apart and most of the time recover a lot of very good individual cells for use in projects around the home. It actually can be allot of fun, and for some people gets quite addictive. I myself have recovered a couple hundred cells from laptop batteries and drill batteries.
If you do decide to go this route of taking batteries apart to recover good cells, just be very very careful in doing so as some mistakes you can make can end in having a very bad day... There are a lot of videos on RUclips about taking laptop batteries apart for recovering 18650 cells. However PLEASE don't mess around with Lithium Polymer batteries as they are EXTREMELY dangerous and hazardous to you, your house and anyone standing close by if you make a mistake, and I am talking about explosions and very bad fires that happen as a result of mishandling Lithium Polymer batteries. I won't touch a Lithium Polymer batter with a 10 foot pole.. Lithium Ion batteries such as 18650's are the best for this kind of hobby as they are the safest to work with. Also Lithium Phosphate batteries are safe to work with as well. This was probably more information than you wanted to know, but just thought I would throw that our there just in case you decided to try some recovery due to my explanations LOL.
how i can buy this module???
Online by using ebay or AliExpress maybe.
This is a tutorial but you keep saying you have no idea what this does and what that does. The reason the cap on the output is 35V is because this is a step down module. you can put from 5V - 35V in and get 1.25V - 30V out. It would be pretty stupid to put anything smaller on the output side!
Cheap module, a 50 V capacitor at input it's a must. China stuff.
sir it can show that battery full charged?????
Shoaib Mughal Yes it can show when fully charged.
how
just watch the whole video.. and read the description too, perhaps.
can i use as lab power supply
Hi, you can, but it's not recommended. :-)
Why this is not recommended?
You could use it for that purpose but the output is not that high of amperage. There are others very similar to this that have proper heat sinks and can handle more power and thus would be more suitable for a lab power supply. But yes you could use this as long as your load it not very high. You need to derate most of these Cheap converters by 50% of how much power they can deliver else they burn up because they don't have a good enough heat sink.
use XL4015 for lab power supply! but do not go above 4.5A!! look AlexGyver miny version, which is very neat and cute. It is super, if you are a basic DIY person and do not need something to fancy and complicate...
i pushed this under 5 volts, now its broken.
what part i have to replace ?
Please share the circuit diagram
Sir can you please give me a english subtitle this video....i cant understand
or maybe he can teach you english .
toooooo muck talkongg
Ladan Leghae wat? yor spieling is arful
If you don't know something why would you make a video wasting people's time
For ad revenue. 🤭
You should have learned how to use this BEFORE you made the tutorial. Why on earth would you think you are qualified to tell others how to use this when this was the first time you used it yourself?
I do not think I'm qualified to tell anyone anything - I'm an amateur, just like many others, and I have absolutely no qualifications in teaching. However, with all due respect, I'm free to tell others how to use whatever I like, whenever I choose, and in whichever manner I see fit - just as you are. What do you think this is? A professional training service? :)