This is glorious. Invaluably helpful to me. Thank you. Due to circumstances, I have to move back into my childhood home. The room has a pretty severe mold problem since it is a corner room with single-pane glass window, single-pane sliding glass door facing sunrise, water-soluble paint on the walls, and a cement slab floor that to my knowledge was never sealed. It was lined with newspaper that dates back to the 80s, of all things, and had an indoor-outdoor carpet with built-in rug pad laid over it. The rug pad has since disintegrated and what remains has been dyed by the ink from the newspaper like a temporary tattoo. The floor moisture and condensation was so bad in the winter that I remember every morning the glass was just soaked and pooling a the bottom where the carpet had rotted away, and the floor was so wet to the touch that I couldn't wear socks indoors. I've been using a 3-part mold removal process throughout the whole room and closet, which is the best that I can do because I am not permitted to, and not knowledgeable enough, to tear down the walls and rebuild. I have this time gotten permission to bring up the carpet and apply a moisture seal though, now that the extent of damage to the room has become apparent since I moved out and was no longer present constantly fighting the moisture and mold that I always communicated was there. I've also purchased a dehumidifier and am looking into plastic second glazing kits as I am not permitted to, and do not have the savings to currently support replacing the glass on top of other expenditures, if I were permitted to. After the walls are done being treated, I'm going to patch holes that had rotten through, apply 100% waterproof caulking in gaps (many of which surround the windowsill and sliding glass door), and apply mold-resistant paint. If you have any other tips for dealing with the issue beyond moving again once I have the ability to, please let me know.
Thanks, good info. One thing that occurred to me is that all your walls are still resting directly on the slap where you can't reach with the applied sealer. Do you think there is concern with continued moisture wicking up to the wood there?
Hi , no I didn't, I just scrubbed away the drywall filler residue from 35 years ago ! Let it dry them applied the Blueseal You could smell mustiness when we bought this house, and the windows used to fog up in the winter, all fixed😃
Hi Nick, thanks for posting this, nice job and very encouraging. After about 1 year, any other thoughts or reflections on this? Did you go for engineered hardwood?
Hi , yes indeed went for engineered hardwood, it all went very well, I did the whole house room by room, the entire house is finished, it took 2.5 years, fullish time. I really think if I hadn't addressed the moisture issue like I did , it would have turned out very badly
Great! thanks for getting back to me. Will soon be lifting old parquet flooring off a concrete slab. This looks like a good next step, and would then follow a good barrier underlay, and finally engineered hardwood. Cheers @@nicksquire3934
Thanks, we’ve just removed an old musty carpet and old plastic tile from a 1950’s concrete bungalow in the U.K. It still smells in there, I’m sure it’s the floor, which is concrete with some residue of black glue holding them down. Hoping this will solve the problem.
Hi , I'm sure it will, I think you can get a similar product in the UK it black, I saw a guy on YT using it, personally I would make sure it's not solvent based. I'm from UK originally, Good luck , let me know 🙂
Will this bubble up if the concrete is damp. I have a room that used to be a garage and doesn’t have a vapor barrier. I want to tile but need something under the tile
@@ThatAltAccountOfConnorF9491 Hi it has to be dry to apply it, of it's damp in.summer you might have to go for more drastic measures.But if it's dry now, yes it will cure in 12 hours and you can tile over it.BUT. this product is intended for exterior foundations to prevent water getting in. There are specific products for this application intended for tile to be applied on top of. Redgard in Canada and US
No you don't need both, I did it because it seemed easier than using poly, and I like the fact that I could create a seal by lipping up the bottom plate of the stud walls
I did look into this, because I wanted to do a shower tray with it, but I decided to use a product called Red guard , available here in Canada. Blueseal and Redguard are both Elastomeric products and there are forums on line about using it. Blueseal is about half the price of Redguard, why not try a test area , stick one tile down with it and see how well it adheres, A to the floor and B to the tile? Hope this helps
I cant find anywhere on youtube if this is recommended or not for the concrete slab , i started to doubt when i read it might cause problems in walls as moisture cannot escape through the slab, i dont know the answer
If you have moisture in the slab then you have problems, you want to prevent it, this happens in older houses where the plastic sheeting used as a barrier has failed. Treating it as I did, or putting vapour barrier on top before you install new flooring , will prevent moisture from appearing, it's still there , but cannot affect your carpet or vinyl, or engineered floor.
We are trying to fix our downstairs basement, it’s not level and has a lot of divots in it. We ripped up the old carpet to redo the flooring, we need to level the concrete but do we do that before we seal? The concrete seems to have some moisture in it already according to my partner. Or would we seal, level, and reseal?
Hi , how much moisture is the question, is it visible damp patches? If it's winter on your part of the world ,rainy,maybe wait until summer to tackle it. When you say needs leveling , by how much, slopes, or just low spots? Maybe send a few photos , happy to help if I can nicksquire007@gmail.com
This is glorious. Invaluably helpful to me. Thank you. Due to circumstances, I have to move back into my childhood home. The room has a pretty severe mold problem since it is a corner room with single-pane glass window, single-pane sliding glass door facing sunrise, water-soluble paint on the walls, and a cement slab floor that to my knowledge was never sealed. It was lined with newspaper that dates back to the 80s, of all things, and had an indoor-outdoor carpet with built-in rug pad laid over it. The rug pad has since disintegrated and what remains has been dyed by the ink from the newspaper like a temporary tattoo. The floor moisture and condensation was so bad in the winter that I remember every morning the glass was just soaked and pooling a the bottom where the carpet had rotted away, and the floor was so wet to the touch that I couldn't wear socks indoors. I've been using a 3-part mold removal process throughout the whole room and closet, which is the best that I can do because I am not permitted to, and not knowledgeable enough, to tear down the walls and rebuild. I have this time gotten permission to bring up the carpet and apply a moisture seal though, now that the extent of damage to the room has become apparent since I moved out and was no longer present constantly fighting the moisture and mold that I always communicated was there. I've also purchased a dehumidifier and am looking into plastic second glazing kits as I am not permitted to, and do not have the savings to currently support replacing the glass on top of other expenditures, if I were permitted to. After the walls are done being treated, I'm going to patch holes that had rotten through, apply 100% waterproof caulking in gaps (many of which surround the windowsill and sliding glass door), and apply mold-resistant paint. If you have any other tips for dealing with the issue beyond moving again once I have the ability to, please let me know.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you 🙏 sir for your explanation
Great video thanks for the info.
Thanks, good info. One thing that occurred to me is that all your walls are still resting directly on the slap where you can't reach with the applied sealer. Do you think there is concern with continued moisture wicking up to the wood there?
I don't think so the foam gasket under the bottom plate was in good shape hadn't deteriorated since 1985 !!
Great job. Did you use any special cleaning products on the floor before applying the coating?
Hi , no I didn't, I just scrubbed away the drywall filler residue from 35 years ago ! Let it dry them applied the Blueseal
You could smell mustiness when we bought this house, and the windows used to fog up in the winter, all fixed😃
Hi Nick, thanks for posting this, nice job and very encouraging. After about 1 year, any other thoughts or reflections on this? Did you go for engineered hardwood?
Hi , yes indeed went for engineered hardwood, it all went very well, I did the whole house room by room, the entire house is finished, it took 2.5 years, fullish time.
I really think if I hadn't addressed the moisture issue like I did , it would have turned out very badly
photos.app.goo.gl/MxJFMipcNNuKZ2Xz7
Here's a photo of work in progress
Great! thanks for getting back to me. Will soon be lifting old parquet flooring off a concrete slab. This looks like a good next step, and would then follow a good barrier underlay, and finally engineered hardwood. Cheers @@nicksquire3934
This looks much more reliable than the plastic sheeting.
is actually not, plastic is much better and easier
Hello, where are you from?
Thanks, we’ve just removed an old musty carpet and old plastic tile from a 1950’s concrete bungalow in the U.K. It still smells in there, I’m sure it’s the floor, which is concrete with some residue of black glue holding them down. Hoping this will solve the problem.
Hi , I'm sure it will, I think you can get a similar product in the UK it black, I saw a guy on YT using it, personally I would make sure it's not solvent based. I'm from UK originally,
Good luck , let me know 🙂
Have you sort of the problem ? If you do what you used as I got the same issue .
Best wishes
Hi Nick! After sealing the floor, can I paint it and use it as a regular floor, or should I put something like vanilla planks on top?
@@TechReviews-k6k it wouldn't be good to walk on , it's intended to be covered, engineered floor or vinyl ,or carpet even😃👍
I have to use some leveling compound too. Would I do thos 1st or after leveling?
You could do either , I used thin set tile morter then let it dry completely then did the blue seal
I would do it first then do the blue seal , make sure the levelling compound is really dry
Hi. Do you know if the whole floor needs doing if i only have a bit of damp in 1 corner? Could do with not having to take up all the tiles. Thanks.
I personally would do the whole floor ,don't do half a job, but that's just me😊
What did you go for eventually?
Ha. Still on the list of to do things.😊
Will this bubble up if the concrete is damp. I have a room that used to be a garage and doesn’t have a vapor barrier. I want to tile but need something under the tile
@@ThatAltAccountOfConnorF9491 Hi it has to be dry to apply it, of it's damp in.summer you might have to go for more drastic measures.But if it's dry now, yes it will cure in 12 hours and you can tile over it.BUT. this product is intended for exterior foundations to prevent water getting in.
There are specific products for this application intended for tile to be applied on top of.
Redgard in Canada and US
Is this the same as blue max? I can only find blue seal in Canada and I am in America.
Yes it is a very similar product it will work fine, good luck
Is this needed if you use a moisture barrier over the concrecte?
No you don't need both, I did it because it seemed easier than using poly, and I like the fact that I could create a seal by lipping up the bottom plate of the stud walls
Hi Nick, can you tile over this stuff? Thanks
I did look into this, because I wanted to do a shower tray with it, but I decided to use a product called Red guard , available here in Canada.
Blueseal and Redguard are both Elastomeric products and there are forums on line about using it.
Blueseal is about half the price of Redguard, why not try a test area , stick one tile down with it and see how well it adheres, A to the floor and B to the tile? Hope this helps
I cant find anywhere on youtube if this is recommended or not for the concrete slab , i started to doubt when i read it might cause problems in walls as moisture cannot escape through the slab, i dont know the answer
If you have moisture in the slab then you have problems, you want to prevent it, this happens in older houses where the plastic sheeting used as a barrier has failed.
Treating it as I did, or putting vapour barrier on top before you install new flooring , will prevent moisture from appearing, it's still there , but cannot affect your carpet or vinyl, or engineered floor.
@@nicksquire3934 thankyou
Its the same thing as redguard or mapex blue stuff you use in bathrooms around tubs for tile..
Not sure if that is a statement or a question, but yes you could use Redguard or Mapex but it's much more expensive
We are trying to fix our downstairs basement, it’s not level and has a lot of divots in it. We ripped up the old carpet to redo the flooring, we need to level the concrete but do we do that before we seal? The concrete seems to have some moisture in it already according to my partner. Or would we seal, level, and reseal?
Hi , how much moisture is the question, is it visible damp patches?
If it's winter on your part of the world ,rainy,maybe wait until summer to tackle it.
When you say needs leveling , by how much, slopes, or just low spots?
Maybe send a few photos , happy to help if I can
nicksquire007@gmail.com
Hey, where are you from?
I live in Canada 🙂
@@nicksquire3934 my floor sweats when i touch it, its salty like moisture
@desiree2040 where are you from
How many years it will last?, advantages & disadvantages?
It will last for ever potentially
I did all this 2 years ago and it's all fine
Im really glad I did it
Would this be suitable to re carpet after?
1:09 yes absolutely.
Did you have to grind the surface first? That has been recommended for my home. Bare concrete with similar
Patched holes from carpet tacks.
No I just.washed it well. Lots of drywall compound droppings from 40 years ago, patched holes with tile morter