Over Torqued Bearings (Hydraulic Press Pinion Bearing) 2005 Ford F-150 9.75" Posi 4.6 5.4
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- SCREAMING Bearings! (Full Teardown) Ford F-150 4.6 5.4 • SCREAMING Bearings! (F...
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Before YT, rear end's were mysterious contraptions that required 3 technicians working at night during a full moon in full head dress while beating drums and dancing in a circle. Ray makes it look like it's a piece of cake.
Yes he does
Don’t forget that it had to be the third Tuesday of the month, and at least one on the techs had to be a werewolf! 😊
Good comment and I was thinking the same thing. As a kid , on one of my first cars a late 60’s Plymouth development serious problems.
In the seventies, information was hard to find, the Haynes manuals helped but these jobs were a challenge.
We figured it out because we had to, and the boys all helped each other, but it was a shit show sometimes.
Rays Ytube vids are a great help for people who want to learn.
I was told to never try working on the inner workings inside the pumpkin because it takes special tools and gauges. When Ray worked on the Jeeps they didn't seem all that terrible. This pickup not so spooky either, which is good because I have a 67 Mustang I'll be doing a lot of work on and I won't be so worried about looking into the rear end that was badly abused by some crazy teenager many moons ago. 😁
@@lvlndco Right! My friend's Uncle took apart his rear end in his plymouth and had to pay a mechanic $1,800 to put it all back together, when me or my friend's car had a leaky rear end, we would SELL the car and buy another..🤣
Everything was ok with the video, but what I missed most was the sound effects at the end. That special sound that we love so much, then the "Anotha" and finally the thumping sound of a brake clean can hitting the floor. 😂
Oh, and watching poor Dave hiding behind something.
My friend has an '11 F150. He took it to a dealer to get a leaking pinion seal replaced. On the drive home he immediately noticed a howling sound. The result was during reassembly the tech over-torqued the pinion nut and fried the pinion bearings.
He came, He saw, He kicked its ass!
We got the tools, we got the talent!
Mechanicing while he's giving us a running commentary and holding the camera a lot of the time too, true multi-tasking!
Camera head/chest mount
That's why he messes up sometimes.
I miss having a press available to me, but I do NOT miss being a fleet mechanic for a company with vehicles ranging from the 1950's to now.
Whats wrong with old stuff it was built better.
@@bobbg9041the starter on a HMMWV weighs 90 pounds, and was one of the lightest in my fleet. Fire truck tires, refueling truck valves, Oshkosh snow blowers, etc take a toll on the body.
Ray.
, when setting up the pinion bearing puller, rotate the clamp 90 degrees to press against the clamp not the all thread. It is much stronger.
Yep, Dave's auto taught us that one!
That was exactly what I was just calling Ray out on! It's just quite important to have the threaded rod supported by the flat bottom jaws, instead of putting them across the gap where tons of force bend them into a u-shape!
"rotate the clamp 90 degrees" ... did you mean to say 180 degrees? In other words, turn it over?
@@Wheel_Horse ""rotate the clamp 90 degrees"" - not FLIP. Ray is putting pressure on the wrong part of the clamp.
@@stans5270 Thanks man! I got it now. The through bolts need to be front to back and not left to right on the press. Instead of the through bolts 'bridging' the gap between the blocks, the steel part of the clamp should be bridging the gap. Gotcha! Sorry for being dense!
I'm an engineer at a bearing manufacturer. Never, ever use the rolling elements to press in the ring! Too much pressure will "brinnel" the raceway. Brinnel is when the rollers dent the raceway and the bearing will fail. I'm glad you changed your setup to the right way!
You don't have to be an engineer to know that.
Would you mind explaining in more layman’s terms? This information could help a junior automotive technician in a shop somewhere. I manage an automotive repair shop. I have some young bucks that spend way too much time on YT looking for short cuts. They’re educated in the automotive industry but want a fast results because it means “less work for more money”
Stop. Thank you so much for, dmonat, this information.....PLEASE state, if you can, what a DIYer should do at home, or in a simple shop, to do the install CORRECTLY. You obviously understand these matters.....Most guys really have a fear of bearings, and most guys use sockets, etc. Hope you can respond and EXPAND. There is nothing better than hearing from people who really Understand, Know, and are willing to point others in the right direction. Bearings really matter. Thank you....very much.
@@jamram9924 I think brinel is like when you try to roll out a flat pie crust with a rolling pin that has protrusions. You end up with a not-flat pie crust.
In the bearing race, this would likely result in high and low sports that can wear the bearings, or even, if deep enough, stop them from spinning and doing their job.
@@jamram9924 friggin lazy ass millenials
The bearing separator should have been rotated 90 degrees in the press; if you had needed any more pressure, you would have bent the two bolts.
We appreciate that you use Denco Brake Cleaner! Thank you, we love your videos and always look forward to seeing your newest repairs!
Why don't you guys hook him up with a few cases of it and maybe some of your other products.
@@GhostSniper67 We shipped him some free products and we are waiting to hear back from him! Great idea!
@Gary-xe2lb See my previous comment, but yes, we reached out to thank Ray and we look forward to hearing back from him! Thanks for the great idea 😀
In my O"pinion", you do great work, Ray.
I love getting the notifications when new Ray content drops 😂
Maybe it’s just me, but this is one of those jobs that seems too fiddly for me to have the patience to do. Just watching Ray do it makes me feel nervous. I’m glad there are people that don’t mind doing such things. 👏
Monday afternoon with thunder and lightening nothing better to watch Ray playing inner bearing's
Talkers and doers. Ray's both.
I love watching somebody getting things done.
You could rotate your vice 90 deg to avoid the possibility of bending the bolts
viSe, in this instance.
I was going to say the same thing. The bearing splitting "vise" should be turned 90 degrees as you stated.
I just loved the lizard tung effect with the air hammer after the outboard race gave way. 😆
When setting up reared, I always set preload w/o crush sleeve to check pinion depth before crushing sleeve. Aftermarket ring and pinions often require different pinion shines. May save a step.
that's very true.
So Ray set the preload on the light side. What is better when it comes to preload? Lower or high number? Spec for this truck is 12-20 in. Lbs
@@jimrossabrena7955 he is good to go its only 3 inch pound difference at a dry rotation once it gets oil and heats up it will be fine ,if its to tight it will sheer through the oil .
Turn fixture 45 degrees so tension not on bolts, FYI. Great videos!!
obviously the last person to "mess" with that diff did not know what they were doing but our Ray can sort it out, thanks for the video
The crush washer looked pretty crushed. A good trick is to grind out a bit of the inner race on the old bearing that sits against the pinion gear so it slides on and off with your hands and then set your pinion depth by shimming it with the original shim and then putting it in and checking your backlash until your backlash is proper when the pinion is tightened down moderately with the old nut. Then you can put the new bearing on with the appropriate shims and new crush washer and nut. It saves you from having to pull the new bearing back off the pinion if your shim pack is wrong.
Always nice to see Lauren.
The only differential i have ever worked on was the one in my ATV last year after I had one of the pinion bearings go out. Never knew but when i bought it didn't have any gear oil in it
I always used to use the old race and grind a little off the outside if it was a recessed location point so it was a slide fit, then use the modified old race to install the the new race. Drive the new race in with the old race in with a suitable socket/drft/puller. Keep these ground down old races for future use.
Similar thing happened to my Durango a few years back. Had a Pinion seal leak. The mechanic just tightened the Pinion nut with an impact after changing the seal. Didn't check the preload and had it way too tight. Within a few months the Pinion bearing broke. I took it to the junkyard and had them swap in a low mileage used rear from another Durango for $400. Drove it another 75k miles before I sold it.
Hey bud, love your videos!
Just a note, when you pressed the bearing off the pinion in the press you should have the setup turned 90 deg from how you had it so the bolts holding the bearing collar don't get bent.
Keep up the great videos!
God Bless!
how things have changed . i bought a 1972 ford van in 1982 . the pinion gear howled but not as bad as this truck did . that was the only thing that was wrong with that van .. the van cost me $800 . it had two passenger seats in it . i sold both seats for $150 each . the van ended up costing me $500 plus a rebuild of the differential . that only cost me $75 .. my oh my how things have changed .. good video
Ray doesn’t have to ask his boss for time off. He is the boss!
ask Lauren about that one...🤣
@@QuantumStellaryou’re correct! She’s the real boss, Ray is the “straw boss.” BAAAAAWAAAAAHAHAHAAAAAA!
@@QuantumStellartrue
Very interesting. This 3 part series is great. Good to see how it comes together
It's funny you did a video about this when you did because I did a Ram 5500 pinion bearing set the same time. Mine was the customer had rear end issues and metal found in the rear diff fluid. I found the pinion bearings worn well beyond their limits causing it all to loosen up too much. Rebuilt the pinion and boom, nice and tight and smooth now. Nice video Ray.
I was completely mesmerized watching. I'm trying to restore the differential for a 1958 Chevy Apache Pickup and couldn't believe how the design hasn't changed much over all these years. The challenge I'm dealing with is replacement carriers are very hard to find. I couldn't find a local machine shop who would weld and lathe the damaged and missing metal the bearing rides on. So, now I'm experimenting with an expensive Loctite metal epoxy to see if that will work.
Thanks for another great video in this part two of this job. I enjoy seeing your process of repair, and in my brain compare it to the way I did such jobs. It's good to see that methods have changed little over the years. Maybe that's one of the reasons I find your channel so engaging. I look forward to seeing the third video of this diff rebuild.
We did get a cameo of Lauren/WifeUnit, although a distant one. 😊 Maybe even a brief Dave video shot too. You have a wonderful organization going, Ray. Thanks for bringing us along.
My dad has a 2006 F150 4wd w/ 4.6, he purchased it used but also got the extended warranty through Ford but the rear end went out not long after he bought the truck which was covered under warranty. I don't know the specifics but something about that Ford didn't get the hardness right on the pinion. We found out later the previous owner had it repaired at least once before and then traded the truck in. The only other major issue we've had with the truck was that sometimes it would trying to engage 4wd when you were driving down the highway. The dealer couldn't figure it out so we ended up leaving it with them as it wasn't really driveable, I think the technician drove it for about 2 days when it finally did it.
Great to see basic automotive mechanic works.... ... .. .
Good job
I always try to stick with Timken brg's or national brg's
Cave man working on the space shuttle damn !!!
FIND A QUALIFIED REPAIR GARAGE TO FIX YOUR VEHICLE"*such as Rays. Thing is... theres also a LIABILITY concern if a repair(even by the car owner) fails and damages/hurts someone in any way.(at least in Canada) so .. .yeah... its better to take it to people like RAY who can guarantee vehicle repairs and make it STICK for insurance reasons if needed too. GREAT WORK RAY!
when I change out pinion and gears in my 1991 GMC 1500 I installed a tru- trac kit .
Those are worth the money.
The right tool makes the job easier, unfortunately for me I do not have them...or a lift. I`m just a 66 yr old backyard mechanic trying to keep his 91 Silverado safe and on the road. Just ordered parts for a front suspension rebuild. This should be fun..on heavy duty jackstands. If possible, I rent the tools. I`ve been keeping my own junk running for 50 years. Thanks for the lesson on pinion bearing tolerances, I look forward to the next very good video. I may need this info soon, truck has 325,215 miles on it and unknown history on the differential maintenance service. I`ve owned it for 6 years, got it cheap from SIL after her divorce.
Hey Ray, have yourself a great day! I really enjoy the content, you never stop learning in life.
Trick my uncle used to do working on rearends was to put the races in the freezer overnight. He would heat the bearing in an old toaster oven to put back on the pinion. They about slipped in like butter.
Hi Ray. Instead of putting on the nut the usual way, why not thread it on to the shaft with the flange-side facing up towards the hydraulic press? More surface area to press against that way. 😊
i just bougth an lsd and an overhaul kit for my ford 8.8in, and now all of my favorite mechanics on the interwebs are posting diff rebuilds! I'm loving all of them and absorbing so much info! that being said, great video as always :D
Nice job ray!!! Cant wait for part 3!
Ray, Looks like there is a small crack at the top of the inner race in the housing. May be a casting line. Hard to tell on video.
Yukon gears are tough. I went through two OEM diffs in my Camaro before installing Yukon and it is still going strong
yes sir I agree went with Yukon pinion and gear with the tru- trac diff ,that was 4 years a go now both rear tires spin on my 1991 GMC 1500 standard cab short box show truck .
When the can went across the floor, I automatically yelled "ANOTHER!"
Smart customer to spend a little extra to avoid other issues since it's all apart. Thanks Ray!!
You're comedy adds to an interesting repairs videos
i put white sealant on the yoke spline . to help stop oil from coming out of it,
Nicely done Ray !
I believe Ray was using the old race and bearing to push the new race into position. That way the rollers were not putting pressure on the inside of the new race.
The venerable 9" ford diff is Soooo much nicer to setup--right on the bench mount. We'd use an old pinion nut with the "friction crimp" cut off, sometimes set bearing preload on a crush sleeve "thinned down" on the lathe, then remove it, measure it, and replace it with a solid shim kit--But we were building 3rd members for high HP Desert Trucks, not grocery getters...A side benefit was we could swap a pinion seal with an impact and not worry about changing preload.
When using a press, always place the puller 'jaws at 90 degrees to the base plates so the pressure is equally applied to both jaws so the downward pressure is not carried by the adjusting bolts as you can bend them and that is not pretty. I agree with the prvious comment about pressing in a new cage, Put it in the feezer or better still use nitrogen to shrink the bearing and push it in. ( be sure to wear gloves to save your fingers)
18:07 I see a crack in the block.
I noticed that too, an in the bottom as well.
Good eye. It’s at 12 o clock. You can see it at 15:31, too.
Beatin around the bearings 😅😂, there's no bush😂
It all boils down to a difference of a pinion
Bearing splitter bolts should not bridge a gap (unsupported). Rotate 90 degrees so both halves are bridging the gap.
and whys that? seemed fine to me
@@Gizmetti
It worked this time, but there is a potential to bend the bolts in this position if he had had to use more force.
You are either Ray’s mistress, or a friend that wishes you were. Stop being so infatuated with Ray that you refuse to see the things he does wrong. He’s not a machinist. Ray will probably see this and think about the position next time.
@@shakerman55 But you just said yourself it worked.... so...
@@Gizmetti
I also said that the “potential” was there. It wouldn’t have taken much more force. I have personally witnessed it in the machine shop I worked in. Why take the chance when all you have to do is rotate it. Ray doesn’t automatically know everything. He does learn a few things from comments. We all can if we keep an open mind.
@@shakerman55 Ok but again, who cares if the bolt bends? Ray said it was a junk bolt from an old engine, a head bolt which is usually the strongest bolts on the engine.. but lets say he did bend it.. so what? The bolt is non consequential.
You have the best toolbox I've ever seen
Glad the Tiger Tightness quote is back, kinda missed it.
always entertaining and educational thanks ray!
Good Day Ray and hit o Dave
Another great video, thank you for posting it for us. I am now a RUclips certified mechanic 🤣
Good job, Ray...
Man I gotta do this on my truck...
Did I really just see a race get pulled in by the bearing itself? Love your work Ray, but that was not cool. 😮
Hardened steel hammer on hardened steel sacrificial race = high potential for shrapnel. Brass mallet = better. Easy to forget. No Reeeeeeeees here, just a reminder. Great demo.
You should never use the rollers of a bearing to press the race into place, particularly with an impact wrench. It can cause brinelling of the race and ruin the bearing.
he may fix the helicopter again
So you should use a cone with the same angle as the race to press it in? Assuming here.
@@FireGodSpeed No - races should never be pressed in using the bearing surface. An anvil of the correct size to fit the outer rim if the race should be used.
@@timgillespie1081 but if you press on the outer surface won't you mushroom that area and push material into the bearing surface? (If you know what I mean)
@@FireGodSpeed That's not likely. The race is *very* hard, much harder than press anvils. So if anything gets deformed during pressing, it would be the anvil, not the race. If you have to press hard enough to damage the race, something is very wrong. The race is possible not going in square, the wrong size, etc.
I think maybe the previous mechanic who worked on it put axle grease on the bearings and that's why it was foamy when you opened the differential.
Ray, get with the program! The "like" and "subscribe" buttons are no longer "down below!" They are to the right, with the new RUclips page format. Just flipping you some shhhhht, man. 🙂 Love your content. Thank you, sir.
Another interesting saga. Hope you and the wife unit are doing well.
I recall doing a wheel bearing and making a call to have the bearing pressed out and the new one on.
I can't recall the quote, but I knew it was insane for what time they would spend on it.
So I bought a press from HF, and it paid for itself after the next bearing job that I did.
Nice one Ray man
Every time you mention waiting on a part I think of the one time I had agarage work on my vehicle. I needed the gas tank on my 94 tercel replaced because it had rotted out and I didn't really want to do that. 3 days in a row the mechanic called me saying the part hadn't shown up yet and he was so mad. I had let him know every time that it was of no importance that it gets done fast because I work 5 minutes from home so it was okay if he couldn't do it yet. The poor guy must get a lot of angry customers when it comes to parts not shipping on time
I used a slide hammer to remove CV axel on a Monte Carlo
Always freeze the race before installing, and heat the bearing to 350 in a toaster oven! Makes the job so much easier. If you heated the cone before removal, it would have been much easier also.
Love the can throw! Plus the way you explain things
Ray one of my NOT so good memory as a young mech was using a press just like yours. I was pressing out a similar bearing and it was being a bear. All of a sudden the bearing EXPLODED--- shrapnel flew everywhere and thank god it didn't hit me. 40 yrs later I can still say someone was looking out for me. Wrap in a rag is my advice. just saying!
I see a crack in casting when you press the bearing
I myself have pressed a bearing or two backwards. I just remember now days. Add 4 non blondes first. Then eveything seems to work out....LOL Thanks for the video Ray, you keep moving forward. Any update on the family needing a new motor for their van? The mother with cancer?
You realy love that cardboard box, Ray 😂😂
Nice catch
4:15 that cardboard box has earned its keep in the shop bud 😂😂
Happy Canada day to all Canadiens here! 😀🥳
You should rotate your puller 90° to the press so it is not as apt to bend the bolts. The puller needs to be placed on the support surface.
I hope you do more than one video a week
About time Ray got himself a big air hammer 😂
I like watching someone else do the greasy work and you can get it done without losing your blessing and using four-letter words to describe the parts you are removing
brother ray thanks for the entertainment and inspiration
"I have altered the setup. Pray that I do not alter it further."😆
Silicone is probably from the factory when they assemble tubes to housing and flanges preventing leaking when built
I bought a slide hammer with different attachments from harbor freight for a wheel bearing…..👍🏿
That is an Eaton axle, my guess is water has been inside and no one has added friction modifier creating most if the issues
Thank you!
Me and my dad put one of those in an we put a little bit of grease on them were wouldn't be dry sit them to 10 we did it old school
Hearing you admit you've pressed a bearing or two on backwards over the years makes me feel much better about the gears and bearings I've pressed on backwards in the past. Don't you just hate it when that happens.....?
Hey Ray why you want to beat me up you keep saying you want to knock me out. Lol love your channel.
I've gotta ask mate the image when you tightened down the pinion bearing race was the diff housing cracked top an bottom or where they cast markes ???
If this is the case then the rear end should have leaked. Since we are saying that the bearing were over torqued it may have cracked.we shall see interesting
Ohhh.... Put red thread locker on that pinion nut! Some nuts come with it already inside but it didn't look like the new one did.
coming soon to a HF the second week of August 12th -18 for members only the 12th -15th there will be a huge parking lot clearance sale. 20ton air replacement jack for that press for $95.00 down from $150.
Great vid as always ray awaiting pt3 as well as everything else have a great day and thanks again for sharing