A few recommendations to you or viewers intending to follow this video: A tool post contains often used contact surfaces providing repeatability. To reduce wear you will want hardened surfaces. If you dont have a grinding machine to machine the part after hardening the next best thing is to use a prehardened low alloy steel. you can buy stock hardened to about 40 HRC. This can still be machined on lathe and mill but is quite a bit harder than cold rolled steel (HRC below 20) Many machining videos are produced documentation style showing almost every chip falling and using time compression. But it is not interesting to see a block squared up for 6 minutes or a hole drilled from top to bottom. Most of us have seen and done it a lot. How about producing videos in story telling style? You show only what is needed for the viewer to understand what you have done and how. So you show only the more important setups and the first and/or last cut and then go to the next important setup. That makes for shorter more interesting videos without those time compression parts putting everybody to sleep. Shorter videos with high information density are not only more interesting to watch but also waste less of the viewers precious time. So more viewers will come back to your channel.
I can watch machining all day. I dont care if they are long or short. Machining is either you are interested or not. I would rather watch one 30min video compared to 3 10 min videos that are not detailed out as much. In the end it is personal preference. I do agree with what you said mostly.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video mate for someone who hasn’t done this a lot or all the as stated in some comments no disrespect to those people these videos help those of us who don’t do this a lot to understand the process and correct way to do it to avoid fails or worse hurting ourselves lol thanks for sharing stay safe all god bless
Your video production is excellent... good mix of chat and working shots... good mix of high-speed and normal... and great choice in music. A lot of your project are out of the scope of my machines and abilities but I've still learned plenty and they're a joy to watch. Maybe a little TOO entertaining because I'm supposed to be working whilst I'm watching this.
I measure 10 times and get a different reading every time! The irony is that my father rarely needed to measure anything because he did everything by eye. I do have my mothers good looks though ha ha
Damn! You had to remove nearly half the block. I would have used a chop saw or angle grinder to cut it down. I usually weld something onto the piece for leverage if it is too short.
you should make a mill stop, those things are very handy when you constantly have to flip a part and keep the zero at the top left corner, also your y will always stay the same if you zero out on the fixed jaw side of the part, i loved the video though making your own tools is the way to go
All quick change systems are POC as far as I am concerned. Forget about them and accept a longer tool change time. You will need precision shim plates and for repeatability, an adjustable stop may be mounted on the solid toolpost registering on the back side of the tool. Chucking the compound is not a real option as far as I am concerned when the machine does not have a (micro adjustable) longitudinal stop and auto feed cutoff (no amateur machines have these as far as I know)
I did the same thing and used the original as a template to make my steel tool-post, though I used a manual mill and approached it slightly differently. I did however achieve the same results as you did. Well done
Really great work, and having to do it over is good experience, my only easier way , would have been to just take an 1/8 " off the one you had and then add a little thicker piece of steel to the bevel sides , similar to the pieces on a compound slide, then cut them down to a very snug fit, seems like a lot less work, but yours is very much stronger indeed. thanks for the great video.
I think it is a good job to build the part or tool I would like to know what milling machine you are working on, will it be a bridgeport with a CNC system? Sincerely, Angel from Spain
Nice job, but it is always best to "blue" up the sides that need working on and mark them accordingly, nonetheless, 10/10 for starting it again and getting it right in the end.
what tolpost was the one that failed you ? for other people not to get screwed over. a lot of us don't have a mill or funds to get one or to buy 2 quick change posts...
Yeah, I saw an awesome looking setup in that old "Amateur's Lathe" book the other day and was kicking myself for not figuring it out on my own. It looked like just a piece of threaded rod or something turning between centers with a small circular blade bolted onto it around the middle. They actually had a table saw style platform, but it seems like clamping your piece onto the compound would work as well and keep your hands away. Seems too easy, so there's probably a catch (like the stock smashing into the arbor), but there's probably some variant that would work.
Nice job. You can build an oscillating frame saw pretty easily, uses hacksaw blades, and will cut very straight. Not fast, but effective. What's time to a pig, right?
Very cool, but just to be fair I've had the same aluminum tool posts bought from A2Z for both the 7x10 mini and Sherline lathes and have not seen any play on them, once the tool posts are installed and locked, the dovetails slip nice and smooth on mine and I have used them hundreds of times but I rarely machine heavy metal mostly aluminum stock. What model of the Lagun mill are you using? Those are nice mills.
MIA Micro-FLIGHT I don't think that tool holder that you saw at the beginning of this video was anything but a homemade job. I've never seen one without any anodizing on it it was just rod oxidized aluminum and I look really roughly made like someone made it at home
If you have endmills, you can hog off a lot more metal faster by using one of those, then finish with the fly cutter for a nice finish. That's what I would do! That's if you don't have a bandsaw to get your stock to nominal dimension.
I love the videos, by the way and appreciate the editing work you put into them. I love to see how other people create things and solve problems! You do great work!
And funny enough, A to Z appears to be out of business. Probably for selling the same useless crap china makes for 4x the cost to total rubes who think metallurgy is just some kind of metallic gangbang.
your screw driver test shows not only the tool holder moving but also the carriage on the bed way. You better check your guide ways and reduce slop. That will increase the rigidity of your machine. Especially during parting off you will know the difference.
Awesome, just awesome...but why cold roll? When you make a hole into it the hole springs into a nominal size (out of round), but...then again, I guess it'd still be ok. Either way, very nice
You're new at this?! That's even better! Show's you're a quick learner, dishing out work like that...you'll master it in no time...honestly great work...and have lots of fun doing it.
Just found this channel and this video. You know, I went to school for CNC programming years ago but I much prefer manual machining. More “touchy-feels”I guess. That being said, I’d kinda like a CNC mill someday. Seems useful. Good stuff but don’t get too comfortable with the CNC. 😁
The handle should work flawless but doesnt, so i guess the central drill was too deep, adding a shims could solve it, and you never show us how the tool holder fit. Thank you to take the time and share it!!
Very cool to let the fault in the video.. This happened to all Machinists hobby or professional sometimes no need to play perfect cause everybody knows that nobody is... 👍
That's awesome but I think I'd try to find a good used steel tool post rather than make one. Thanks for showing us your mistake with the locating edges. Makes the rest of us feel human too. Cheers buddy!
Re your mistake, couldn't you have rotated the work so the mistake was on the back side of the toolpost, and then machined a new dovetail on the opposite side to replace it? Then you could fill in the hole with a bolt and grind flush. Wouldn't look pretty but it should work fine, and way easier and cheaper than starting over.
Very nice video overall Thanks. I'm a hobbyist wanna be and found the same issue with the aluminum post for my lathe. Found this searching YT and thinking to do the same. What steel did you use and it looks as if you only replaced the main body of the post not the other components. If so, how'd that work? Would you take the time to fab the other components too? TIA!
+David Bolliger It's just cold rolled steel, nothing fancy. I left the cam and lever as well as the piston in aluminum because they shouldn't really be taking any significant stress. I thought I may do those as well once I get the lathe back up and running. (It's apart now because I want to make some more modifications!)
Hi Chris a most interesting job. The lathe and mill are just my hobby. I have a Chinese lathe and mill and wish to do a similar quick change tool post like you did. By any chance do you have dimensions or drawings in hand please to work on? In particular the depth of the dove tail and inner parts? Thank you Silvio
love your videos... very calming to watch for some reason.. have you considered adding a quill servo to have a cnc'd z axis? I'm sure that would really help your productivity and I thought I saw the anilam screen show XYZ so I assume it's capable of driving a 3rd axis? as a hobby machinist myself, I know how valuable a second machine is for modding the first..lol. I cringed when I saw the reference boo boo.. been there more then I care to admit..lol. great work!
+christopher polanski Thanks! I've certainly thought about it... Problem is, while the Anilam can read the scales for three axis it is only a two axis controller, so I'd need to replace that. While I would normally look into that, I'm making some good progress on my own "mini VMC" which will hopefully be able to do most of my CNC work. Then I'll have the Lagun for just manual milling.
As a beginner hobby machinist, I find your videos to be fascinating. I view the results as works of art, which of course, is only one aspect. What cutting oil are you using? It seems thick and colorful.
Same here, and it actually does pretty well for "a while". Mine has only recently gotten sloppy enough to annoy me, and it may have been here a couple years. Wish I had sprung for a decent steel one back then though.
@3:29... ok, no bandsaw... how about a hacksaw, perhaps? I imagine that cut would take about the same amount of time but waste a lot less material ...but that's probably just my Scottish blood talking. :) Best wishes from down Under, I enjoyed this video.
"how about a hacksaw, perhaps?" That's me for every piece of stock here and I'm surprised I don't have arms like Popeye. At times it goes so slow I feel like the Count of Monte Cristo digging his escape tunnel. Every blade I've bought or tried so far also stays sharp for about two minutes even on soft materials.
Mauro de Amorim hi There are no coincidence in this life and I know for sure that God is giving all of us the chance to know him better , make a relationship with him and have a great life , the answer is the prophet Muhammed Peace be upon him , he is the latest messenger from God to all mankind , Muslims were once the leaders of the world when they were practicing the commandement of the Coran , I know that you will delete this message but please take a few minutes of your time and make some research about it . I am sending this message to everyone I can reach , everyone deserve to know the truth , Peace be with you and good luck.
There are exceptions. I can get nice hunks of scrap aluminum that's big enough for most of my projects for about 40 cents per pound. I don't have a source for steel like that, so I have to buy new, which costs a lot more even for A36. I have to buy online for any tool steel.
I am wondering what make the pins come out in the center of the holding block I see the pins have a o ring on there but I don't understand how it tightens on the holder
The O-ring just provides enough friction so they don't fall out. The portion of the handle in the block has a cam lobe which, as you turn it, pushes outward on the pins. Turning it back takes the pressure off the pins so you can slide the holders off. Definitely not the greatest system but it does seem to work ok for a very small lathe.
The short answer to this problem is to throw away that tool post and buy the wedge type....end of story.......piston types are cheap, crap and not worth as door stops.
هل لديكم معرفة لبيع مخرطة قرمة اثنين متر وطول اثنين أو متر ونصف ذات غوراب متحرك مع السعر إلى مصر من فضلك ومقشطة عربية اثين قائم مع رسمة وصندق سرعات لتركيب حجر جلخ أو انديمل طول ثلاثة أمتار ألماني مع السعر أيضا من فضلك افاديني مرحبا والف شكر
No band saw? Easy! HACK SAW! Yeah, its W3RK. But you're NOT wasting material you could use on other tools/parts. THEN use the fly cutter to face off the hand cut. DUDE! Really?
A few recommendations to you or viewers intending to follow this video:
A tool post contains often used contact surfaces providing repeatability. To reduce wear you will want hardened surfaces. If you dont have a grinding machine to machine the part after hardening the next best thing is to use a prehardened low alloy steel. you can buy stock hardened to about 40 HRC. This can still be machined on lathe and mill but is quite a bit harder than cold rolled steel (HRC below 20)
Many machining videos are produced documentation style showing almost every chip falling and using time compression. But it is not interesting to see a block squared up for 6 minutes or a hole drilled from top to bottom. Most of us have seen and done it a lot. How about producing videos in story telling style? You show only what is needed for the viewer to understand what you have done and how. So you show only the more important setups and the first and/or last cut and then go to the next important setup. That makes for shorter more interesting videos without those time compression parts putting everybody to sleep. Shorter videos with high information density are not only more interesting to watch but also waste less of the viewers precious time. So more viewers will come back to your channel.
Ditto!
I can watch machining all day. I dont care if they are long or short. Machining is either you are interested or not. I would rather watch one 30min video compared to 3 10 min videos that are not detailed out as much. In the end it is personal preference. I do agree with what you said mostly.
The thing is they get paid for the amount of content
My exact sentiments. As for getting paid for time, I think ethics should ply a role.
As for myself, I will never watch a video of this guy again
You must have been Quite ! Asleep ! More than Most ! Here !
Thoroughly enjoyed your video mate for someone who hasn’t done this a lot or all the as stated in some comments no disrespect to those people these videos help those of us who don’t do this a lot to understand the process and correct way to do it to avoid fails or worse hurting ourselves lol thanks for sharing stay safe all god bless
Really like the style, craftmanship and occational "oops" you got going in these videos. Keep it up, looking forward to your next one!
Your video production is excellent... good mix of chat and working shots... good mix of high-speed and normal... and great choice in music.
A lot of your project are out of the scope of my machines and abilities but I've still learned plenty and they're a joy to watch.
Maybe a little TOO entertaining because I'm supposed to be working whilst I'm watching this.
My dad used to always say: measure twice and cut once. Great video by the way.
I measure 10 times and get a different reading every time! The irony is that my father rarely needed to measure anything because he did everything by eye. I do have my mothers good looks though ha ha
Damn! You had to remove nearly half the block. I would have used a chop saw or angle grinder to cut it down. I usually weld something onto the piece for leverage if it is too short.
you should make a mill stop, those things are very handy when you constantly have to flip a part and keep the zero at the top left corner, also your y will always stay the same if you zero out on the fixed jaw side of the part, i loved the video though making your own tools is the way to go
Excellent job! Your a better man than me, I would have tried force fitting/ welding in a plug after all that work!!
All quick change systems are POC as far as I am concerned. Forget about them and accept a longer tool change time. You will need precision shim plates and for repeatability, an adjustable stop may be mounted on the solid toolpost registering on the back side of the tool. Chucking the compound is not a real option as far as I am concerned when the machine does not have a (micro adjustable) longitudinal stop and auto feed cutoff (no amateur machines have these as far as I know)
I did the same thing and used the original as a template to make my steel tool-post, though I used a manual mill and approached it slightly differently. I did however achieve the same results as you did. Well done
Dream on ! DREAMER !
Gotta love when you get nice and close to the vise jaws 😅 good work!
Thanks!
Why do most people use digesting music when non would be much better, silence is golden,
That matters to people who don't care what on screen. Or if music really awful.
Just like DEAD ! MACHINES ! ARE ! GOLDEN ! TOO !
Really great work, and having to do it over is good experience, my only easier way , would have been to just take an 1/8 " off the one you had and then add a little thicker piece of steel to the bevel sides , similar to the pieces on a compound slide, then cut them down to a very snug fit, seems like a lot less work, but yours is very much stronger indeed. thanks for the great video.
Z
I think it is a good job to build the part or tool I would like to know what milling machine you are working on, will it be a bridgeport with a CNC system? Sincerely, Angel from Spain
Nice job, but it is always best to "blue" up the sides that need working on and mark them accordingly, nonetheless, 10/10 for starting it again and getting it right in the end.
+rich kellow Thanks!
what tolpost was the one that failed you ? for other people not to get screwed over. a lot of us don't have a mill or funds to get one or to buy 2 quick change posts...
Use an arbor with a large saw blade if you don't have a band saw. Cut it from all 4 sides.
Yeah, I saw an awesome looking setup in that old "Amateur's Lathe" book the other day and was kicking myself for not figuring it out on my own. It looked like just a piece of threaded rod or something turning between centers with a small circular blade bolted onto it around the middle. They actually had a table saw style platform, but it seems like clamping your piece onto the compound would work as well and keep your hands away. Seems too easy, so there's probably a catch (like the stock smashing into the arbor), but there's probably some variant that would work.
I didn't think about that but at the same time couldn't think why he has a fancy cnc mill and no bandsaw!
Nice job. You can build an oscillating frame saw pretty easily, uses hacksaw blades, and will cut very straight. Not fast, but effective. What's time to a pig, right?
Very cool, but just to be fair I've had the same aluminum tool posts bought from A2Z for both the 7x10 mini and Sherline lathes and have not seen any play on them, once the tool posts are installed and locked, the dovetails slip nice and smooth on mine and I have used them hundreds of times but I rarely machine heavy metal mostly aluminum stock. What model of the Lagun mill are you using? Those are nice mills.
MIA Micro-FLIGHT I don't think that tool holder that you saw at the beginning of this video was anything but a homemade job. I've never seen one without any anodizing on it it was just rod oxidized aluminum and I look really roughly made like someone made it at home
3:30 sounds like a power hacksaw would be a good future project.
If you have endmills, you can hog off a lot more metal faster by using one of those, then finish with the fly cutter for a nice finish. That's what I would do! That's if you don't have a bandsaw to get your stock to nominal dimension.
+Barry Lochridge That is very true. :)
I love the videos, by the way and appreciate the editing work you put into them. I love to see how other people create things and solve problems! You do great work!
+Barry Lochridge Thanks!
Barry Lochridge y
I have a A to Z aluminum QCTP that I have had no problems with. Then again it is made in the USA and cost four times what similar import would cost.
And funny enough, A to Z appears to be out of business. Probably for selling the same useless crap china makes for 4x the cost to total rubes who think metallurgy is just some kind of metallic gangbang.
your screw driver test shows not only the tool holder moving but also the carriage on the bed way. You better check your guide ways and reduce slop. That will increase the rigidity of your machine. Especially during parting off you will know the difference.
rol eic ii
they sell these ones made of steel with quite a nice fit. at around 100 dollars. making you own has its own merits.
Fantastic tool mate 👍
merhaba kalemlik kaseti nasıl sıkıyor acaba
hidrolik sittemi
yani içinde yağmı var
Awesome, just awesome...but why cold roll? When you make a hole into it the hole springs into a nominal size (out of round), but...then again, I guess it'd still be ok. Either way, very nice
Thanks! I used CRS because that was in the scrap bin at work. I'm still pretty new and didn't want to make a mess of good, expensive steel.
You're new at this?! That's even better! Show's you're a quick learner, dishing out work like that...you'll master it in no time...honestly great work...and have lots of fun doing it.
Is that CNC milling machine ?
Just found this channel and this video. You know, I went to school for CNC programming years ago but I much prefer manual machining. More “touchy-feels”I guess. That being said, I’d kinda like a CNC mill someday. Seems useful. Good stuff but don’t get too comfortable with the CNC. 😁
DREAM ON ! DREAMER !!
The handle should work flawless but doesnt, so i guess the central drill was too deep, adding a shims could solve it, and you never show us how the tool holder fit. Thank you to take the time and share it!!
Very cool to let the fault in the video.. This happened to all Machinists hobby or professional sometimes no need to play perfect cause everybody knows that nobody is... 👍
That's awesome but I think I'd try to find a good used steel tool post rather than make one. Thanks for showing us your mistake with the locating edges. Makes the rest of us feel human too. Cheers buddy!
Re your mistake, couldn't you have rotated the work so the mistake was on the back side of the toolpost, and then machined a new dovetail on the opposite side to replace it? Then you could fill in the hole with a bolt and grind flush. Wouldn't look pretty but it should work fine, and way easier and cheaper than starting over.
Oh sure. I wanted it to be as good as I could possibly make it though. :)
@@ChrisDePrisco And END !.UP !.IN THE ! METAL ! SHREADDER ! TOO ! FOR ! PEACE ! OF !.MIND !!.
dude, I have the same one. cool.
ok so the video is only moments in, and I'm jealous of the mill, but yeah. I have similar plans as time goes on.
Your saddle is still moving at the end, tighten it up, but nice milling cheers.
I see lots of flipping the part from side to side, but do you establish datums and then parallel sides and then perpendicular end?
Very nice video overall Thanks. I'm a hobbyist wanna be and found the same issue with the aluminum post for my lathe. Found this searching YT and thinking to do the same. What steel did you use and it looks as if you only replaced the main body of the post not the other components. If so, how'd that work? Would you take the time to fab the other components too? TIA!
+David Bolliger It's just cold rolled steel, nothing fancy. I left the cam and lever as well as the piston in aluminum because they shouldn't really be taking any significant stress. I thought I may do those as well once I get the lathe back up and running. (It's apart now because I want to make some more modifications!)
+Chris DePrisco thanks
very good. thanks for the informative video. No one has said they could make one of these. ha ha
Hi Chris a most interesting job. The lathe and mill are just my hobby. I have a Chinese lathe and mill and wish to do a similar quick change tool post like you did. By any chance do you have dimensions or drawings in hand please to work on? In particular the depth of the dove tail and inner parts? Thank you Silvio
It's all in the Video !
love your videos... very calming to watch for some reason.. have you considered adding a quill servo to have a cnc'd z axis? I'm sure that would really help your productivity and I thought I saw the anilam screen show XYZ so I assume it's capable of driving a 3rd axis? as a hobby machinist myself, I know how valuable a second machine is for modding the first..lol. I cringed when I saw the reference boo boo.. been there more then I care to admit..lol. great work!
+christopher polanski Thanks! I've certainly thought about it... Problem is, while the Anilam can read the scales for three axis it is only a two axis controller, so I'd need to replace that. While I would normally look into that, I'm making some good progress on my own "mini VMC" which will hopefully be able to do most of my CNC work. Then I'll have the Lagun for just manual milling.
SHAME ON YOU ! FOR ! CHEATING !! WAY TOO MUCH !!
You can afford a whopping great awesome mill (so jealous) but not a band saw ;)
Nice Work Chris! Is there any chance I can get the plans for making my own QCTP? Thanks a lot and congrats
I think I can give you the STEP files, can you use those?
Sure! my e-mail is lean032@gmail.com
Leandro Feigin did you get those files???
Again an excellent video, keep them coming!
Thanks! I'm glad people are enjoying them.
As a beginner hobby machinist, I find your videos to be fascinating. I view the results as works of art, which of course, is only one aspect.
What cutting oil are you using? It seems thick and colorful.
Hey thanks! I honestly don't remember what cutting oil I'm using. I got it a long while ago.
Yellow Liquid ! Type ! Oil !
Nice job Chris
any way you could do a video on the center bolt parts and lever?
Those aren't my parts. They came from the original tool.
roughing endmill would have saved you sooo much time
wich kind or milling u have ?
or v.m.c
Wow, it eats through steel like it's nothing!
What is that you Have laying covering your table?
Amazing work!
Looks good and professional video - my compliments. I Have only one question: why did you buy that chinese pu pu if you have the equipped shop?
That was bought well before I had any of this.
Same here, and it actually does pretty well for "a while". Mine has only recently gotten sloppy enough to annoy me, and it may have been here a couple years. Wish I had sprung for a decent steel one back then though.
The Shop ! Was the Shop !
Why not put a discription of the machine in the main video title. It will save you having to answer the same question overall and over and.........?
Great Video! I will follow next one.
What milling machine are you using btw nice video
+machining basics Thanks! It's a Lagun FTV-2 with Anilam 2 axis CNC.
Wow! That's a lot of scrap, you must be okay with that?
Great video. Could you do a video on how you made your mill into a CNC machine
@3:29... ok, no bandsaw... how about a hacksaw, perhaps? I imagine that cut would take about the same amount of time but waste a lot less material ...but that's probably just my Scottish blood talking. :) Best wishes from down Under, I enjoyed this video.
+greaser5691 You know, I do - and honestly I thought about it but it just seemed like a TON of effort whereas the mill was almost no effort. :)
"how about a hacksaw, perhaps?"
That's me for every piece of stock here and I'm surprised I don't have arms like Popeye. At times it goes so slow I feel like the Count of Monte Cristo digging his escape tunnel. Every blade I've bought or tried so far also stays sharp for about two minutes even on soft materials.
Try these...
www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-410-Rod-Saw-Carbide/dp/B000FK5DH0/ref=sr_1_51?ie=UTF8&qid=1534945853&sr=8-51&keywords=hacksaw+blades
knock 15 of these out and buy band saw.
i dont have power feed on the mill i use guess fly cutter is my option
EXCELENT WORK
Hello all, I plan to do my QCTP, based on yours, could you tell me which is the program you use in the video, where can I download it?
Mauro de Amorim hi There are no coincidence in this life and I know for sure that God is giving all of us the chance to know him better , make a relationship with him and have a great life , the answer is the prophet Muhammed Peace be upon him , he is the latest messenger from God to all mankind ,
Muslims were once the leaders of the world when they were practicing the commandement of the Coran ,
I know that you will delete this message but please take a few minutes of your time and make some research about it .
I am sending this message to everyone I can reach , everyone deserve to know the truth ,
Peace be with you and good luck.
Great video !!! a question. What steel you used
thank you
Thanks! I honestly do not know, this was just the steel I had at the time.
ok
Love the way you made video cool
Do you have a drawing and dimention
Why would anyone make a toolpost of Aluminium? I guess the machining time is less, because the material cost is definitely more expensive.
There are exceptions. I can get nice hunks of scrap aluminum that's big enough for most of my projects for about 40 cents per pound. I don't have a source for steel like that, so I have to buy new, which costs a lot more even for A36. I have to buy online for any tool steel.
Better have a Look ! At Artisan Doesn't Makes ! You Tube Video !
Very good
Do you have a drawing and demention
What milling machine are you using in the video.?
+TheUkracer It's a Lagun FTV-2 with 2 axis CNC control by Anilam.
I was gonna say, he's a freaking jedi at etcheskech. -_-
I am wondering what make the pins come out in the center of the holding block I see the pins have a o ring on there but I don't understand how it tightens on the holder
The O-ring just provides enough friction so they don't fall out. The portion of the handle in the block has a cam lobe which, as you turn it, pushes outward on the pins. Turning it back takes the pressure off the pins so you can slide the holders off. Definitely not the greatest system but it does seem to work ok for a very small lathe.
Right. Hunt up a wedge-type, when you can, if you have a mind to.. applies better holding. Generally costs a bit more, but worth it.
Por favor un vídeo fabricando una polea o molde para doblar tubos redondos y sus diferentes medidas o diametros
I've bought same quick change tool post. :(
You got a new subscriber.
Thanks
Wow this is a great video, especially if you have a cnc setup, but I don't and now you have made me very sad, lol.
I'm still going to sub you though.
Friend, what machine are you using? Thank you Washington,
It is a late 1990's Lagun FTV-2 manual mill with two axis Anailam CNC controls.
Just tell them the extra hole is for ventalation bro hahaha
can u send me the cad of this asambly?
Отличная резцедержка!!! Класс!!!
sure. youve got this equipment an then you buy one of those cheapo chinisium toolposts.
Do you sell these?
Почему он инструмент до конца не доводит? Ведь не дорезает же "летучка" . Не получается плоскость!
You need a new lathe brother, and let me stress - anything except Chinese.
awesome work Chris subscribed!
Frig me why did you spend so much time frigging around recording you reducing that steel to the size you want?
Get a handle on that file!
Зачем половину заготовки в стружку пустил? Можно же отпилить было.
to bad there are no drawings or parts lists
Probably on his Patreon I guess, that's how a lot of guys handle it. And tbf, it's a better way than having to buy the design itself!
Great video, just subscribed.
+Adam Bennett + iI know how it feels to not have a band saw. :'(
Bit of creative advise... perhaps don't show each and every cut. looks like the first 5 minutes of the video are played on a loop haha
H
very nice. subbed!
The short answer to this problem is to throw away that tool post and buy the wedge type....end of story.......piston types are cheap, crap and not worth as door stops.
هل لديكم معرفة لبيع مخرطة قرمة اثنين متر وطول اثنين أو متر ونصف ذات غوراب متحرك مع السعر إلى مصر من فضلك ومقشطة عربية اثين قائم مع رسمة وصندق سرعات لتركيب حجر جلخ أو انديمل طول ثلاثة أمتار ألماني مع السعر أيضا من فضلك افاديني مرحبا والف شكر
ارجو الترجمة باللغة العربية الفصحى من فضلك ولك الف شكر على المعلومات القيمة الموفيدة
Needs more hacksaw
No band saw? Easy! HACK SAW! Yeah, its W3RK. But you're NOT wasting material you could use on other tools/parts.
THEN use the fly cutter to face off the hand cut.
DUDE!
Really?
I want to see you making a band saw :)
"tossing a few bucks my way" - why?
The answer is in his question ^^
You do NOT have dinentions on the vidio
Good video except for the hideous music....
What a waste of material ! try getting your hand on a smaller part next time !