Alpine Extension for Rock Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Alpine Extension for Rock Climbing
rockclimb.video
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there!
All your videos are so helpful, nice to see different and minimalistic ways of doing things!
Thank you!
You're saving me so many carabiners with this compared to how I normally do it.
THAT is pretty sweet! Elegant in scientific terms is associated with simplicity. That extension is an elegant solution.
Thank you!
I can't believe these videos don't have more views! I find this channel to be so helpful. Thank you for sharing these
As others have mentioned, your videos are super clear and straight to the point. Very well articulated. Thanks for putting all this material together!
Can't believe how helpful this has been. I didn't know there was so many extra ways of doing these things without compromising safety.
Of course I find this video two days after I needed it! Awesome instruction. Very easy to follow and understand. Thanks
Love how this got uploaded right after I got back from a climb where it would have been very useful! 😃 Love the informative and bite sized videos, keep it up 👍
Love all your videos man! They are super simplistic and informative. I have recently learned and gotten trad climbing these extra videos are a huge help!:D
Thanks! Glad they are helpful!
I am very glad to watch your new video!So good!
Thank you! Cheers!
Absolutely fantastic video. This and all your others. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you!
Wouldn't an alpine butterfly work better for the master point, considering how it can take loads on both axes? With a figure of 8, if you fall you're loading the knot in the wrong direction.
The knot can't capsize if there's something clipped into the bight, so it doesn't really matter. This distinction is more important, for example, with a fixed line with an isolated section, where you will be weighting the rope perpendicular to the knot, and there isn't anything clipped into the bight.
These videos are awesome. I've been climbing for over twenty years now yet I'm learning so much stuff! Good job guys!
Thank you!!
Amazing videos thank you so much for sharing. I've been using a lot of similar techniques so I'm glad to see someone with more experience doing the same!
Great videos! Incredible work. Question - so your second comes up and now you are both standing at this extended master point. How does the transition look for leading the next pitch? If swinging leads, then I would imagine it's really not too different than standard practice, but what if you're leading in blocks? With the leader tethered off the back of that extended figure 8 master point, how would that transition look? Thanks all!
Roddy's reply:
We'd both proceed up to the anchor. Can use the Munter on the anchor to belay us up there if desired.
First of all perfect tutoring on all of your videos. A quick question. When tying the master point after descending with the munter hitch, wouldnt be safer to use a locking carabiner on my belay loop and tie myself with the free tail of the rope using a clove hitch? of course then i should belay my partner from my harness and not from a clear master point. Maybe thats the british way of doing things but i would be intrested on your feedback on tis topic,
brilliant
I don't think I've ever heard somebody recommend stomping on your rope before can't say I agree
And wouldn’t it be better a directional figure eight than a figure eight?
Awesome info! Is that Intersection rock?
Thanks! Yes it is!
Isn't there a risk that the master point would "roll" by just tethering off the back of it?
Cheers from France, keep up with the great content !
Please see Roddy's reply:
Thanks for the question! Could you clarify what you mean when you say "the master point would 'roll' by just tethering off the back of it"? Do you mean the clove hitch at the belay device, or the bight knot at the master point, or something else?
@@videoracles I mean the figure 8 knot at the master point. Isn't it dangerous to tether directly in it? It looks similar to the offset figure 8 which is known to be dangerous when joining ropes for rappelling, but I may be wrong here.
Using a flat figure of 8 bend to join two ropes for rappelling (which is a really bad idea) and this setup are two different things.
Excited to try this. If your climber falls and hangs, does that cause the extended master point to be on the ground?
If the climber falls and hangs, the rope will want to make a straight line between the anchor and the edge. Depending on where your master point is relative to that straight line, it may come in contact with the ground. When this is a possible outcome, you want to pay attention and make sure the locking mechanism of the Grigri won't be impaired. Great comment, thanks!
Isn't there a danger that, if the second takes a fall that creates forces that aren't directly in line with "the system" that the belayer would be pulled off their stance?
exactly and who uses a gri gri when on trad
Won’t a figure 8 roll when loaded that way? Wouldn’t an over hand, essentially a bend in this case be better? Or just tie 2 butterfly’s. You wouldn’t join two ropes on a repel with a traditional 8, you’d use a Flemish bend.
Roddy's reply:
Hi Chris,
No, it doesn't roll. It's common practice for guides to hang off the back of an overhand or figure-8 on a double-bight, and it works well.
For rappelling with two ropes, I prefer a flat overhand.
Best,
Roddy
HMS is German for works with a münter. 🤣