Awesome. I've a 2015 s550 gt w/ 42K miles. Waterpump took a dump all of a sudden when I started it in the garage yesterday. Forward-most bearing COMPLETELY shredded so the shaft wobbles like a knock needed goat. Your vid helped immensely! Thanks and kudos!
@@TheJimminiShow Yeah. Wished I seen how you got yours out of the block. Mine was a bear. Had to rock it back and forth, up and down while pulling on it. And, yeah, using a ball peen hammer. Seriously, was worried about screwing up the block where the pump fits in. Finally came loose and it looks like no damage to the block. But a vane was broken off the impeller and I found pieces of the pump in the inset of the engine block. I'm guessing the bearing pieces that broke. Not like the old days of wrenching on a small block Chevy, that's for sure. I seriously love my Mustang. But I'm learning to be very careful when working on it. All that aluminum is not as forgiving as the iron in my old 327 '65 Chevelle! Anyhow, thanks again!
The engine bay on the S550 is slightly different. I had a little bit more room so I didn't have to rock it back and forth as much. I was able to just put a pry bar just under the back lip where it mates up with the block. And then it just came off pretty easily on mine. They must be using a different gasket or sealer on the s550s. Yeah sometimes I miss working on an old 302 s95 mustang or my old iroc z Camaros. I am keeping my eye out for a 69 boss or at least a 69 fastback. My buddy and I are looking for a shop and I want to do some cool projects.
Going to be referring to this video later. Just replaced the engine on my 13’ GT from 174k to 46k. Hammered down on it this morning then I get a misfire on cylinder 4 and coolant everywhere. Water pump was making some noise so I will be swapping the WP with the one off the old engine as well as the spark plugs and coils.
This helped a lot. Got to the water pump easy. Having the same problem with getting it out. All 4 bolts are out and it wiggles but won’t come out. Don’t want to rip it or pry, Any suggestions?
Possibly. Possibly a bad thermostat. The only reason the coolant level in the tank would go up is if the flow was blocked going into the system. Most thermostats are designed to break in the open position, but there could be something wrong that is making it stay closed. It is supposed to open at about 195
15 years as mechanic, ? I was a mechanic for around 4- maybe 5 days.... and I decided that CORDLESS POWER TOOLS, makes life much smoother as mechanic... Good luck to you...!!
Th car would smell like anti freeze when sitting at idle. and the pump was damp. also, I was a mechanic for 15 years. I did have to replace one of the idle rollers as well. I think the fluid dripping onto the roller caused it to wear out.
@@TheJimminiShow ok does the water pump have a leak hole if it goes bad like the old mustang's I been working on cars for years to I've rebuilt a few cars. I think it might be the radiator hose but I have to take it off and check thanks for the reply it doesn't run hot but the heat dies unless u press the gas
It does have a small weep hole. If it is a newer 5.0 you have to be careful. You'll need a whole new hose kit. Ford changed the diameter and depth of the connection on the hoses and don't list it in the computer. The kit is about $200 for all the hoses and the distribution block. It sounds more like you have a thermostat sticking open. If you have no heat unless the accelerator is pressed, it is not circulating the coolant at idle through the heater core. If you don't hear a whine, and don't smell coolant, I would try the thermostat first.
I have coolant leaking (small leak) but it in the center of the k-member. Engine not overheating at all. But I see coolant on the hose that looks like it connected to the water pump. Could it be my water pump? I have 2012 mustang gt with 152,000 miles.
Honestly, no. Probably not the best advice for me to give, but not everything needs a torque number. After wrenching on cars for tons of years, many parts just need to be tight. Don't Superman the bolts tight, is that can cause damage to threads and pull out the threads from the aluminum block. But I haven't used torque specs for water pumps or will lug nuts or lots of other parts in a vehicle because over years with experience I've learned what parts just in need to be tight. Obvious thing such as head bolts your crank bolts your rods and pistons and you're connecting rods and you know there's lots of things that need to be correctly torqued, but most accessories do not. I know it's probably sounding like bad information, but I've built everything from Chevy cavalier engines to high horsepower turboed Grand Nationals. But a Chilton guide probably has the correct torque specs. Sorry I just don't know them off the top of my head
Not really. And i keep the diagram in a notebook that i started a long time ago for future reference. Digiral is fine short term, but i like physical copies. Im old. And its not about saving time. Its about doing it right.
I've figured out that I can whip out my pocket computer and use it to snap a few pictures of said part I'm working on sure beat finding my crayons and trying to draw anything.
Ooh burn. I prefer paper and pen because with my Degenerative Nerve disorder, i break my magical pocket porn portal. So excuse me for thinking about others. But you continue to think about only yourself, ok?
Just started having this noise last night. It only does it on acceleration. I dont smell or see any coolant or puddles anywhere. Here is the video to my video. Anyway you can tell if it's the belt or the waterpump? Thank you! ruclips.net/video/N0UB5uIh1Q0/видео.html
Hard to say. Sounds like a Pulley, Im more concerned with the crank bearing noise I heard when you revved up. It sounded like you have whats called Crank Walk. When you rev the motor, the rod bearings are letting the crank move and make an almost knocking sound. I would worry about that first. You may have an oiling problem, or you may have a bigger problem on your hands
If only there was a way to fast forwars or scrub through or select a different part.......and it doesn't say "how to". It was a vlog i made while doing it. Jesus
Thanks for the video again. I just install a new water pump in my brother’s mustang. Took me 35 mins
Awesome. I've a 2015 s550 gt w/ 42K miles. Waterpump took a dump all of a sudden when I started it in the garage yesterday. Forward-most bearing COMPLETELY shredded so the shaft wobbles like a knock needed goat. Your vid helped immensely! Thanks and kudos!
Glad to hear it helped. Sorry to hear the pump went bad on you
@@TheJimminiShow Yeah. Wished I seen how you got yours out of the block. Mine was a bear. Had to rock it back and forth, up and down while pulling on it. And, yeah, using a ball peen hammer. Seriously, was worried about screwing up the block where the pump fits in. Finally came loose and it looks like no damage to the block. But a vane was broken off the impeller and I found pieces of the pump in the inset of the engine block. I'm guessing the bearing pieces that broke. Not like the old days of wrenching on a small block Chevy, that's for sure. I seriously love my Mustang. But I'm learning to be very careful when working on it. All that aluminum is not as forgiving as the iron in my old 327 '65 Chevelle! Anyhow, thanks again!
The engine bay on the S550 is slightly different. I had a little bit more room so I didn't have to rock it back and forth as much. I was able to just put a pry bar just under the back lip where it mates up with the block. And then it just came off pretty easily on mine. They must be using a different gasket or sealer on the s550s. Yeah sometimes I miss working on an old 302 s95 mustang or my old iroc z Camaros. I am keeping my eye out for a 69 boss or at least a 69 fastback. My buddy and I are looking for a shop and I want to do some cool projects.
Do I need a new gasket or gaskets for the 2015 water pump replacement?
Great video. Killer voice!
Thanks for the video. Big help
Thanks for the video again
Going to be referring to this video later. Just replaced the engine on my 13’ GT from 174k to 46k.
Hammered down on it this morning then I get a misfire on cylinder 4 and coolant everywhere. Water pump was making some noise so I will be swapping the WP with the one off the old engine as well as the spark plugs and coils.
Very helpful, thanks!
Any suggestions for a high flow water pump to purchase for GCC?
For the belt rib to rib smooth to smooth only one way it can really go on
Great video!! I was just curious on if you would know the difference between a 4 bolt vs a 3 bolt water pump? Besides for the bolts😂
Was wondering the exact same thing
I'm sorry but as a expert mechanic that is a coolant expansion tank not a overflow reservoir
This helped a lot. Got to the water pump easy. Having the same problem with getting it out. All 4 bolts are out and it wiggles but won’t come out. Don’t want to rip it or pry, Any suggestions?
Wood block and a rubber mallet. Towel under the pump to catch it
Awesome thank you, I’ll try it this week
Can you tell me how yo bleed the air outnthe system? I'm struggling
My car overheats when I turn ac on. Does this mean it’s my water pump? The coolant level also goes all the way up about to shoot out the cap.
Possibly. Possibly a bad thermostat. The only reason the coolant level in the tank would go up is if the flow was blocked going into the system. Most thermostats are designed to break in the open position, but there could be something wrong that is making it stay closed. It is supposed to open at about 195
Also, check the fans some cars have an electric one, and change the radiator cap.
15 years as mechanic, ?
I was a mechanic for around 4- maybe 5 days.... and I decided that CORDLESS POWER TOOLS, makes life much smoother as mechanic...
Good luck to you...!!
What can I say, I'm old school.
@@TheJimminiShow
hey nothing wrong with it … good video....helpful
Mine blew out while driving 🙄
That sucks
Could u tell me how u knew it was the water pump I have same issue I think well my brother does
Th car would smell like anti freeze when sitting at idle. and the pump was damp. also, I was a mechanic for 15 years. I did have to replace one of the idle rollers as well. I think the fluid dripping onto the roller caused it to wear out.
@@TheJimminiShow ok does the water pump have a leak hole if it goes bad like the old mustang's I been working on cars for years to I've rebuilt a few cars. I think it might be the radiator hose but I have to take it off and check thanks for the reply it doesn't run hot but the heat dies unless u press the gas
It does have a small weep hole. If it is a newer 5.0 you have to be careful. You'll need a whole new hose kit. Ford changed the diameter and depth of the connection on the hoses and don't list it in the computer. The kit is about $200 for all the hoses and the distribution block. It sounds more like you have a thermostat sticking open. If you have no heat unless the accelerator is pressed, it is not circulating the coolant at idle through the heater core. If you don't hear a whine, and don't smell coolant, I would try the thermostat first.
@@TheJimminiShow thanks there is a whine thank you I'll start with that the thermostat thanks man it helps so much thermostat would be simpler
@@TheJimminiShow when you say newer 5.0 do you mean the gen 2 and gen 3? I have a 13 gen 1
Jeeze!! Greenhorn
I have coolant leaking (small leak) but it in the center of the k-member. Engine not overheating at all. But I see coolant on the hose that looks like it connected to the water pump. Could it be my water pump? I have 2012 mustang gt with 152,000 miles.
That's not something I can diagnose over the Internet. at 150k, it could be the pump, or the hoses, No clue. You need to go to a mechanic.
Hey jimmini, my 2013 gt waterpump took a shit as well and I cant find torque spec for the four water pump bolts. Do you know the toque spec?
Honestly, no. Probably not the best advice for me to give, but not everything needs a torque number. After wrenching on cars for tons of years, many parts just need to be tight. Don't Superman the bolts tight, is that can cause damage to threads and pull out the threads from the aluminum block. But I haven't used torque specs for water pumps or will lug nuts or lots of other parts in a vehicle because over years with experience I've learned what parts just in need to be tight. Obvious thing such as head bolts your crank bolts your rods and pistons and you're connecting rods and you know there's lots of things that need to be correctly torqued, but most accessories do not. I know it's probably sounding like bad information, but I've built everything from Chevy cavalier engines to high horsepower turboed Grand Nationals. But a Chilton guide probably has the correct torque specs. Sorry I just don't know them off the top of my head
Water pump 10Nm the pooley 25Nm.
Thanks for the info friend
@@TheJimminiShow no problem, if you want i have a repain manuel for 2010 till 2014 mustang, I can send you, or anyone here who needs it
I hate when you guys don't show the most important step! REMOVING THE PART!
Take a picture or make a video of belt system and the routing,much faster.......
Not really. And i keep the diagram in a notebook that i started a long time ago for future reference. Digiral is fine short term, but i like physical copies. Im old. And its not about saving time. Its about doing it right.
I've figured out that I can whip out my pocket computer and use it to snap a few pictures of said part I'm working on sure beat finding my crayons and trying to draw anything.
Ooh burn. I prefer paper and pen because with my Degenerative Nerve disorder, i break my magical pocket porn portal. So excuse me for thinking about others. But you continue to think about only yourself, ok?
Do you have to drain all of the fluid
Not all the fluid, just enough to take off the pump and hoses.
Disliking the video because you don't show how to actually remove the pump.
Just started having this noise last night. It only does it on acceleration. I dont smell or see any coolant or puddles anywhere. Here is the video to my video. Anyway you can tell if it's the belt or the waterpump? Thank you! ruclips.net/video/N0UB5uIh1Q0/видео.html
Hard to say. Sounds like a Pulley, Im more concerned with the crank bearing noise I heard when you revved up. It sounded like you have whats called Crank Walk. When you rev the motor, the rod bearings are letting the crank move and make an almost knocking sound. I would worry about that first. You may have an oiling problem, or you may have a bigger problem on your hands
You've wasted too much time not getting to the point of the repair,
If only there was a way to fast forwars or scrub through or select a different part.......and it doesn't say "how to". It was a vlog i made while doing it. Jesus
Thank You Jimmini, you did an EXCELLENT JOB, you stated it was not a HOW TO VIDEO, just a Removal. Keep on Wrenching 🔧 🧰