If your well loses prime here's what you can do to fix it with some simple tools and save some money. For more resources and information visit this website. www.flotecpump.com/Residential...
Hey buddy!! Just wanted to let you know your video helped us…4 years after your made this. Backyard struck by lightning, lost power for a few, pump was not happy.
Moman from Ocala Florida. I had replaced my well holding tank with the similar pump setup that you have and I lost my prime. Your procedure was spot on. I not only saved a ton of money but I was up and running in no time flat. Thank you so much.
@@josephcarter9033 I'm not certified to make these type of repairs. I removed the pressure gauge and filled the opening with water from a syringe with a tapered opening until the pump was filled with water. I installed the gauge back on, fired up the pump and we were good to go.
got it going today, thank god I dont live there,where pump is. anyway the jet at the impeller in pump housing was clogged, pulled pump from well looked in bottom lots of iron from water cleaned it up primed right up after reinstall. Thanks agian for making this video gave me the confidence to do it myself and spent more time =money, could have called the pros. but now I know that thing inside and out.ya'll are awsome.
hmm should have used the bleeder nut down on the lower side of the impeller housing opening that would have let the air out of the system as you were filling it.. much easier in the long run 😉😉
Thanks a lot. Now you didn't tell us what happens to that regulator that you unscrewed. Did you screw it back in to where it originally was? Did you screw back in till you got a certain PSI reading on the gauge? I was without power for at least 10 months and we used up all the pressure in the lines. Thanks for all this wonderful info. May the good lord bless you with plenty of cold ones.
thanks, im getting alot of air from somewhere , i think this pump short cycled for months lol.. says the neighbors. may have to rebuild or get another one. or maybe sucking air from drop pipe dk but will find out.
Yes, ive been researching, after several hours of trying to get it primed, no sucess, I plan to go over there this weekend and pull drop pipe to inspect foot valve. Thanks agian for your posting puts things in terms I can understand.
If your pump is still kicking the prime "or dumping" as you put it, this is an indication the regulator is not set properly or a faulty regulator,. The regulator needs to be tightened down quite a bit as its main function build high pressure in the 2 pipe well system & to regulate the water flow coming out of the well. At 110' deep, I'm guessing your level is around 100' to105' giving you approx ten feet of water in your well, If the ground material allows it, you should consider drilling a 4" submersible system as a submersible system is 1005 efficient whereas a jet pump system "as you have here uses about 80% of that jet pumps capabilities to circulate water in the well and about 20% to pump it to the house Also a submersible system doesn't need to be primed they are the Cadillac of domestic well systems Even so, that pump you have I'm guessing is what a 1.5 or 2 hp STA-RITE one of the best pumps on the market if you ask me, That and Goulds are the two best pumps out there. It should be running at around 75- 85 PSI when it's on, that is until it shuts off at around 65 PSI on the discharge side. The tank "when empty of all water" should have about 30 -36 PSI of air in it to keep the pump from short cycling. As short cycling a.k.a. going "on off, on off, on off" is very bad for any pump. Because as it short cycles it keeps getting hit with those high start up amps, thus overheating rapidly with no time to cool off. If you're overpumping the well you should simply tighten down the regulator until you meet the G.P.M. the well is providing, A properly regulated well pump should not be affected by no matter how many faucets you turn on, granted no water night come out but the well pump shouldn't kick the prime which I'm guessing is about 2-3 G.P.M. Bearings sound about toast on that pump I'd bet a week pay there is a ground up snake in the windings *I wouldn't recommend the following for the non-mechanically inclined individual However, sometimes this is needed when no one else is around, however, it is dangerous but doable;l leave the power on instead of walking back & forth to the breaker especially if you have muddy feet and the power is in a finished basement. If you're priming a pump by yourself, with a little care and attentiveness you can very easily use a screwdriver and a 9/16 size nut or nut driver as I used for 25 years to start and stop the pump The screwdriver is used to simply & carefully pry up on the flap UNDER the center spring on the P/switch and slide the nut, or nut driver in, this will not allow the contacts to connect until your ready for them too I then slide the nut driver handle close to the pump "kind of like you would the handle of a hot pan on a stove" as to not inadvertently hit it, then I replace/rest the switch cover over the switch lightly & when you are ready for power you simply pull out the nut driver and the pump comes on. Or if you used the nut only technique just slide the screwdriver gingerly under the flap lift it & pull out the nut. & pull out screwdriver and presto. pump comes on. No need to run back & forth, no need t all. I've used this technique for over 25 years and never had a single issue & I've been in some pretty shady deep & tight well pits in my lifetime. Up here in the NorthEast our well pits are at least 4 to 10 feet underground to prevent freezing in winter However, the one & only time I trusted a homeowner to shut off the breaker/power to the pump was the very first time I was electrocuted with 220 volts & I was not a happy camper about that. It was more my fault for not testing the breaker as I usually do with my volt meter. Since that day I treated every switch as though the power is on. Not to toot my own horn here but, after doing wells & pumps for over 24 years I got good enough at it to even replace pumps and or pressure switch's with the power on the entire time, while standing in 6'" of water I wouldn't recommend you trying this at home, remember with quality tools and knowledge, anything is possible. P.S. Also it is a good idea to run a small led light inside of your house to come on whenever the pump is on as I've seen people get $500+ electric bills due to a constantly running pump system out in a well pit they had no idea was constantly running, R.J. Subterrainial water extraction & filtration specialist & well pump mechanic For 24+ Years and lived to talk about it
RJ I like the very informative reply. You definitely seem to know what you're talking about and I'm glad you're able to give some advice. I like the led light idea. I may do that soon because it'd be nice to have a visual indication that the pump is running. Eventually whenever the pump or well gives out I will probably have a submersible pump to replace the old setup.
Thanks for this video I'm going to try this today on a friend's house and will update but I think you just gave me the answer. They lost Prime reprime but no water flow and I think it's because of air pockets and somebody messed with the flow regulator full and may have just tightened it down too much
Hello, I’m a new subscriber. I live in SE Texas where I had a 2-Stage we’ll just like yours installed almost 35 years ago. Over the years I’ve naturally had to replace jets, foot valves, screens, as well as the actual pump and tanks after years of use. Nevertheless, the well was drilled to 270’ and I know the water level or table that my inner pipe is set about 75’, however we’ve recently installed most everything new (pump, tank, jet, screen, etc. and we had them add one of those tank to pump bleeder valves to help prevent water logging. However, about a month later we started noticing our was cloudy which got worse during and after rainfalls, so I’m concerned that I may have a cracked well pipe possibly caused by tree root growth, or could it possibly be the bleeder valve? I’ve recently had heart valve surgery and need a major cervical spine surgery which makes it difficult to get around these days which I know is only temporary because I’m to stubborn to simply give in or give up. So, I’m just wondering if you know much about the waterworks this area of the world being that I’m about 60 miles north of Houston, and any advice would be appreciated.
You just have to empty the water tank completely and prime the pump and you're good! Looks like your tank is too small. It will loose pressure quick and your pump will be turning on as soon as you turn on the water inside the house.
I replaced new wire and pressure tank switch and new breaker switches to power box...and nothing .I turned handle on pressure tank switch so points touch and outside on control box the rely makes a buzzing sound...( we ain't getting water)
(The guy who did the talking in the video) Sounds to me like you may need to replace the pump. Everything you replaced may have been fine, but I don't know the condition it could have been in. If you have proper voltage going to the pump and all you hear is a buzzing sound then you may have a pump that's locked up.
Chuck Junior other than your bladder tank your pressure switch could have something to do with your pump not turning off. pardon my delay for response.
Thanks... this is clearly over my head, but the sky in this video is beautiful! ✌🏼
Hey buddy!! Just wanted to let you know your video helped us…4 years after your made this. Backyard struck by lightning, lost power for a few, pump was not happy.
Your a gentleman and a scholar thank you sir!
Moman from Ocala Florida. I had replaced my well holding tank with the similar pump setup that you have and I lost my prime. Your procedure was spot on. I not only saved a ton of money but I was up and running in no time flat. Thank you so much.
I leave in lecanto fl an dnt have water an i dnt know how to do this how much u would charge me
@@josephcarter9033 I'm not certified to make these type of repairs. I removed the pressure gauge and filled the opening with water from a syringe with a tapered opening until the pump was filled with water. I installed the gauge back on, fired up the pump and we were good to go.
Well, that was easy!! You just saved me a plumber call and a lot of money!!
Thank you for doing this video. Got my water up and going because of you.
do you tighten the regulator back after the desired prime / pressure
is achieved?
got it going today, thank god I dont live there,where pump is. anyway the jet at the impeller in pump housing was clogged, pulled pump from well looked in bottom lots of iron from water cleaned it up primed right up after reinstall. Thanks agian for making this video gave me the confidence to do it myself and spent more time =money, could have called the pros. but now I know that thing inside and out.ya'll are awsome.
Thanks for showing how to prime a deep well pump
Thank you good sr. Just finished installing a jet pump for the first time at my folks place and was having problems getting it to work. Cheers
Thanks again! You're the best!
you just saved me some money thank you very much
Good deal. I'm glad I could help.
Thanks man, well done, well explained.
Omg thank you so much we were without water for 3 days and I thought the pipes were frozen
Your a life saver bro 😎
Thanks broh , you just save my money and time. Great video, easy to understand the sound was good, keep up the good work. Thanks again.
hmm should have used the bleeder nut down on the lower side of the impeller housing opening that would have let the air out of the system as you were filling it.. much easier in the long run 😉😉
You just helped me out man.
Get 'er done!!!!!
Best video I've seen on it. Nothing fancy. But I prefer natty here in Ocala
Thanks a lot. Now you didn't tell us what happens to that regulator that you unscrewed. Did you screw it back in to where it originally was? Did you screw back in till you got a certain PSI reading on the gauge? I was without power for at least 10 months and we used up all the pressure in the lines. Thanks for all this wonderful info. May the good lord bless you with plenty of cold ones.
thanks, about to give it a shot im glad you included the part about adjusting regulator , will let you know
dan smith I hope it works for you
thanks, im getting alot of air from somewhere , i think this pump short cycled for months lol.. says the neighbors. may have to rebuild or get another one. or maybe sucking air from drop pipe dk but will find out.
dan smith try to figure out as much as you can and of course if you have to call the pros.
Yes, ive been researching, after several hours of trying to get it primed, no sucess, I plan to go over there this weekend and pull drop pipe to inspect foot valve. Thanks agian for your posting puts things in terms I can understand.
Thank you very much,I got water again. I will never shut my power off for a week ever again lol !
I need this video thank you so much 👍🏻🇺🇸
our pumps could be twins, down to the blue collar on wellpipe..lol
Thank you Robert, you are a life saver!
I'm glad that you were able to find this video helpful.
If your pump is still kicking the prime "or dumping" as you put it, this is an indication the regulator is not set properly or a faulty regulator,.
The regulator needs to be tightened down quite a bit as its main function build high pressure in the 2 pipe well system & to regulate the water flow coming out of the well. At 110' deep, I'm guessing your level is around 100' to105' giving you approx ten feet of water in your well,
If the ground material allows it, you should consider drilling a 4" submersible system as a submersible system is 1005 efficient whereas a jet pump system "as you have here uses about 80% of that jet pumps capabilities to circulate water in the well and about 20% to pump it to the house Also a submersible system doesn't need to be primed they are the Cadillac of domestic well systems
Even so, that pump you have I'm guessing is what a 1.5 or 2 hp STA-RITE one of the best pumps on the market if you ask me, That and Goulds are the two best pumps out there.
It should be running at around 75- 85 PSI when it's on, that is until it shuts off at around 65 PSI on the discharge side. The tank "when empty of all water" should have about 30 -36 PSI of air in it to keep the pump from short cycling. As short cycling a.k.a. going "on off, on off, on off" is very bad for any pump. Because as it short cycles it keeps getting hit with those high start up amps, thus overheating rapidly with no time to cool off.
If you're overpumping the well you should simply tighten down the regulator until you meet the G.P.M. the well is providing, A properly regulated well pump should not be affected by no matter how many faucets you turn on, granted no water night come out but the well pump shouldn't kick the prime which I'm guessing is about 2-3 G.P.M. Bearings sound about toast on that pump I'd bet a week pay there is a ground up snake in the windings
*I wouldn't recommend the following for the non-mechanically inclined individual
However, sometimes this is needed when no one else is around, however, it is dangerous but doable;l leave the power on instead of walking back & forth to the breaker especially if you have muddy feet and the power is in a finished basement.
If you're priming a pump by yourself, with a little care and attentiveness you can very easily use a screwdriver and a 9/16 size nut or nut driver as I used for 25 years to start and stop the pump
The screwdriver is used to simply & carefully pry up on the flap UNDER the center spring on the P/switch and slide the nut, or nut driver in, this will not allow the contacts to connect until your ready for them too I then slide the nut driver handle close to the pump "kind of like you would the handle of a hot pan on a stove" as to not inadvertently hit it, then I replace/rest the switch cover over the switch lightly & when you are ready for power you simply pull out the nut driver and the pump comes on.
Or if you used the nut only technique just slide the screwdriver gingerly under the flap lift it & pull out the nut. & pull out screwdriver and presto. pump comes on.
No need to run back & forth, no need t all. I've used this technique for over 25 years and never had a single issue & I've been in some pretty shady deep & tight well pits in my lifetime. Up here in the NorthEast our well pits are at least 4 to 10 feet underground to prevent freezing in winter However, the one & only time I trusted a homeowner to shut off the breaker/power to the pump was the very first time I was electrocuted with 220 volts & I was not a happy camper about that. It was more my fault for not testing the breaker as I usually do with my volt meter.
Since that day I treated every switch as though the power is on. Not to toot my own horn here but, after doing wells & pumps for over 24 years I got good enough at it to even replace pumps and or pressure switch's with the power on the entire time, while standing in 6'" of water I wouldn't recommend you trying this at home, remember with quality tools and knowledge, anything is possible.
P.S.
Also it is a good idea to run a small led light inside of your house to come on whenever the pump is on as I've seen people get $500+ electric bills due to a constantly running pump system out in a well pit they had no idea was constantly running,
R.J.
Subterrainial water extraction & filtration specialist & well pump mechanic
For 24+ Years and lived to talk about it
RJ I like the very informative reply. You definitely seem to know what you're talking about and I'm glad you're able to give some advice. I like the led light idea. I may do that soon because it'd be nice to have a visual indication that the pump is running.
Eventually whenever the pump or well gives out I will probably have a submersible pump to replace the old setup.
Thank-you Thank-you Thank-you
Thanks for this video I'm going to try this today on a friend's house and will update but I think you just gave me the answer. They lost Prime reprime but no water flow and I think it's because of air pockets and somebody messed with the flow regulator full and may have just tightened it down too much
Hello, I’m a new subscriber. I live in SE Texas where I had a 2-Stage we’ll just like yours installed almost 35 years ago. Over the years I’ve naturally had to replace jets, foot valves, screens, as well as the actual pump and tanks after years of use.
Nevertheless, the well was drilled to 270’ and I know the water level or table that my inner pipe is set about 75’, however we’ve recently installed most everything new (pump, tank, jet, screen, etc. and we had them add one of those tank to pump bleeder valves to help prevent water logging.
However, about a month later we started noticing our was cloudy which got worse during and after rainfalls, so I’m concerned that I may have a cracked well pipe possibly caused by tree root growth, or could it possibly be the bleeder valve?
I’ve recently had heart valve surgery and need a major cervical spine surgery which makes it difficult to get around these days which I know is only temporary because I’m to stubborn to simply give in or give up. So, I’m just wondering if you know much about the waterworks this area of the world being that I’m about 60 miles north of Houston, and any advice would be appreciated.
looks like the operators were primed up on busch :)))
throttle bottle it takes one to know one. lol.
throttle bottle good comment there sir.
excellent video
Our well has a big heavy tank is that the same thing as what you where showing
nice vids
Thank you!
You just have to empty the water tank completely and prime the pump and you're good! Looks like your tank is too small. It will loose pressure quick and your pump will be turning on as soon as you turn on the water inside the house.
a bigger tank would be great. it's works well tho for now I suppose.
Im lost i have a much older well what type u have
was your water valve on to your house or was it shut off .. in working on mine now
steven couch if you can turn off the valve going to your house that'd be better if not make sure all the facets in your house are off.
No smart meter. That's good, keep it that way.
unfortunately we recently got mail from the co op informing us that smart meters are on the way. :(
How much horse power is this
I replaced new wire and pressure tank switch and new breaker switches to power box...and nothing .I turned handle on pressure tank switch so points touch and outside on control box the rely makes a buzzing sound...( we ain't getting water)
(The guy who did the talking in the video) Sounds to me like you may need to replace the pump. Everything you replaced may have been fine, but I don't know the condition it could have been in. If you have proper voltage going to the pump and all you hear is a buzzing sound then you may have a pump that's locked up.
How to build a Gould's pump
so do you leave the regulator screw where it is, or do you turn it back?
Helen Streett after you've made the adjustment it should be fine where it is so leave it there.
Can you come look at mine. Lol i saw clay electric on that meter
Patrick you've done everything and still no water?
My pump does not shut off
Chuck Junior your bladder tank may not have enough pressure in it and normally they need about 38 psi.
Chuck Junior other than your bladder tank your pressure switch could have something to do with your pump not turning off. pardon my delay for response.