Well I finally got around to ordering the Body Mounts. Arrived on the front porch yesterday afternoon. Ordered on 8/27/ 24 and arrived 8/29/24, fast shipping. Going to watch your video again to refresh my mind.
Pro tip: If you wait until the 2nd row mount brackets are gone, you can entirely skip this step!!! Saves lots of time on that step. Although, welding and fabbing in new pans and mount brackets...
Just got a 97hd 2wd. Gotta do ALL the obs typical fixes. Super clean interior and minimal body damage for a work truck with 367,000 miles. Its astonishing how well some people take care of their stuff. Its an xlt and crew cab short bed white with gold stripe. Ranch hand bumpers. Drives like a uhaul 😂.
I first saw these mounts a couple years ago. Pricy but you generally get what you pay for, and if they last longer that the Factory mounts, you are money ahead. I have watch a few video`s on these mounts, and see a 2014 truck, to me that is pretty new as I drive an 86 F-250 6.9 Diesel, owned past 10 years and now have 351K miles on her. I know the cab mounts are long gone, as after 38 years should be, and probably be a bear to replace. Most likely metal to metal as the rubber is long gone....LOL. Iam 80 and will be diving into this project this fall, if i can do it, anyone reading this has no excuse`s as to why they cannot. Great video you did on replacing them
Just installed these and here are my thoughts. The removal cups work well if the bushing isn't smashed outwards. But I would guess you're replacing bushings because your cab sits lower than it should, meaning your bushings probably are smushed and bowed out. My 2nd row came out easily, my 3rd row did not. The piece of all-thread they include is fine for a cup that will slide over a non-deformed bushing. However if your bushing is smashed garbage like mine were, you need a much longer piece; I used a 9" long piece of all thread but probably 6" would work, the thread pitch is 7/16-14 on the 2nd and 3rd row retainers. On the passenger side, you can use a sawzall and just cut the old bushing out instead of messing with the cup, but that's not really an option on the drivers side because of the fuel tank. You do not need to remove the tank, but you need to pull the skid plate and then remove the front strap and loosen the rear. It's a 15mm nut head with a 13mm bolt head on the crossmember. I loosened the clamp on the fuel fill but didn't remove the hose...it'll slide off a little but won't come off as you drop the front. With the tank dropped in the front and pushed slightly towards the passenger side, thread in your self-supplied longer all-thread, then lube up the cup/bushing so that the cup will more easily slide over the bushing. I used WD40, but silicone grease, moly, or pretty much any lube will work. It'll take some time to push it up over the bushing but will actually pop it out. Or waste a lot of time and pull the tank so you have full access and just sawzall that junk like the other side. When installing the bushing for the 3rd row, there's a handy hole in the frame you can stick a pry bar in to hold up the bottom of the bushing; it'll slide off otherwise making it difficult to install by yourself. On the 1st and 2nd row, with appropriate extensions you can reach the upper and lower bushings at the same time to tighten them. Unless you have T-rex arms. Also the cup material is kind of thin but you can use the large washers you take out to better spread the load when removing the lower part of the bushing...if you don't, the cup is likely to bow in at the top. I re-used the 1st row and 3rd row washers. The first row washer is dished, so definitely use it. The 3rd row washer is simply larger than the supplied captive washer so will spread the force better. The bolt diameter for the second row is too large to re-use the washer, albeit you can drill it out. Torque to 60ft-lbs. I used no extra shims and it perfectly leveled the body with the bed; my passenger side was about an 1" low, my driver's side about 1.5" prior. Quality kit that's well worth it.
I had the same issue on row 3, after getting the removal cup unstuck from the swollen rubber bushing, I used a disc sander and body grinder to cut the outside and inside edges to a knife point. I lathered the bushing and inside of tool with some grease and it slid right over and popped it.
Dam bro u make this look easy…. My front door no longer lines up at all I have to lift it to close it Iv broken 3 handles. Finally someone way more knowledgeable than me said my body mounts are broken. I seriously hope this fixes this problem for me
I think it will, my passenger door has been hard to close for a couple years, the DS door I shimmed up with washers but now is difficult to close. Body lines are off by about 3/8". Truck rides like hell even after new shocks and springs, I'm hoping this will cure all that ails me! *EDIT* All installed and ride is much quieter, though I now hear popping from the bed that I have to address. Ride quality went from about a 5 to a 6.5, not great but it's a 250 Powerstroke.
Broncograveyard has door panel handle kits. Thick sheet metal Adds more support to the worn sheet metal that holds the handle hardware. Doors open easily now
Wow.....i need that tool and an impact driver....it took me two hours with a hammer and punch and i never could get the compression fitting to break. I gave up and left it.
Where can I order the actual brackets I bought a 4 door long bed and it’s missing both of the brackets on the driver side the previous own put two pieces of steel there and racket strapped it down
Jeffrey, Its a Pro eagle "Off road Jack Extension 8" or 15" www.proeagle.com/products/floor-jack-extension-00000 You need to purchase their floor jack lift pad as well. Thanks, Ryan
@@galehess6676 I had an early 90s F350 flatbed with the 7.3L Diesel. That engine was obnoxiously loud. Always felt like it was going to blow up any second. I sold that truck 8 years ago and I believe it is still running just fine.
Hello Jace, Thank you for choosing S&B filters. Unfortunately we don't carry or make body mounts for Ford Bronco. Keep checking back because we might in the future. Im including the link to our site that shows which Ford mounts we do carry. www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford
Go price the bolts and removal tool directly from Ford, neither are cheap. You can buy cheap polyurethane body mounts but without the removal tool you will be hard pressed to separate the mounts without cutting them off entirely.
Well I finally got around to ordering the Body Mounts. Arrived on the front porch yesterday afternoon.
Ordered on 8/27/ 24 and arrived 8/29/24, fast shipping.
Going to watch your video again to refresh my mind.
Pro tip: If you wait until the 2nd row mount brackets are gone, you can entirely skip this step!!! Saves lots of time on that step. Although, welding and fabbing in new pans and mount brackets...
Man, I love that truck. That's the perfect year and color. That's what I call a BIG RIG!👍
Just got a 97hd 2wd. Gotta do ALL the obs typical fixes. Super clean interior and minimal body damage for a work truck with 367,000 miles. Its astonishing how well some people take care of their stuff. Its an xlt and crew cab short bed white with gold stripe. Ranch hand bumpers. Drives like a uhaul 😂.
I redid my bushings with poly 3 year ago when i replaced my core support. This kit looks so intuitive and complete, i think im going to purchase it.
I first saw these mounts a couple years ago. Pricy but you generally get what you pay for,
and if they last longer that the Factory mounts, you are money ahead.
I have watch a few video`s on these mounts, and see a 2014 truck, to me that is pretty new as I
drive an 86 F-250 6.9 Diesel, owned past 10 years and now have 351K miles on her.
I know the cab mounts are long gone, as after 38 years should be, and probably be a bear to replace.
Most likely metal to metal as the rubber is long gone....LOL.
Iam 80 and will be diving into this project this fall, if i can do it, anyone reading this has no excuse`s as to why they cannot.
Great video you did on replacing them
These are going on the list for the 97 F350 rebuild.
Just installed these and here are my thoughts. The removal cups work well if the bushing isn't smashed outwards. But I would guess you're replacing bushings because your cab sits lower than it should, meaning your bushings probably are smushed and bowed out. My 2nd row came out easily, my 3rd row did not. The piece of all-thread they include is fine for a cup that will slide over a non-deformed bushing. However if your bushing is smashed garbage like mine were, you need a much longer piece; I used a 9" long piece of all thread but probably 6" would work, the thread pitch is 7/16-14 on the 2nd and 3rd row retainers. On the passenger side, you can use a sawzall and just cut the old bushing out instead of messing with the cup, but that's not really an option on the drivers side because of the fuel tank. You do not need to remove the tank, but you need to pull the skid plate and then remove the front strap and loosen the rear. It's a 15mm nut head with a 13mm bolt head on the crossmember. I loosened the clamp on the fuel fill but didn't remove the hose...it'll slide off a little but won't come off as you drop the front. With the tank dropped in the front and pushed slightly towards the passenger side, thread in your self-supplied longer all-thread, then lube up the cup/bushing so that the cup will more easily slide over the bushing. I used WD40, but silicone grease, moly, or pretty much any lube will work. It'll take some time to push it up over the bushing but will actually pop it out. Or waste a lot of time and pull the tank so you have full access and just sawzall that junk like the other side. When installing the bushing for the 3rd row, there's a handy hole in the frame you can stick a pry bar in to hold up the bottom of the bushing; it'll slide off otherwise making it difficult to install by yourself. On the 1st and 2nd row, with appropriate extensions you can reach the upper and lower bushings at the same time to tighten them. Unless you have T-rex arms. Also the cup material is kind of thin but you can use the large washers you take out to better spread the load when removing the lower part of the bushing...if you don't, the cup is likely to bow in at the top.
I re-used the 1st row and 3rd row washers. The first row washer is dished, so definitely use it. The 3rd row washer is simply larger than the supplied captive washer so will spread the force better. The bolt diameter for the second row is too large to re-use the washer, albeit you can drill it out.
Torque to 60ft-lbs. I used no extra shims and it perfectly leveled the body with the bed; my passenger side was about an 1" low, my driver's side about 1.5" prior. Quality kit that's well worth it.
I had the same issue on row 3, after getting the removal cup unstuck from the swollen rubber bushing, I used a disc sander and body grinder to cut the outside and inside edges to a knife point. I lathered the bushing and inside of tool with some grease and it slid right over and popped it.
Dam bro u make this look easy…. My front door no longer lines up at all I have to lift it to close it Iv broken 3 handles. Finally someone way more knowledgeable than me said my body mounts are broken. I seriously hope this fixes this problem for me
I think it will, my passenger door has been hard to close for a couple years, the DS door I shimmed up with washers but now is difficult to close. Body lines are off by about 3/8". Truck rides like hell even after new shocks and springs, I'm hoping this will cure all that ails me!
*EDIT* All installed and ride is much quieter, though I now hear popping from the bed that I have to address.
Ride quality went from about a 5 to a 6.5, not great but it's a 250 Powerstroke.
body bushings wont help your door. if you have to lift you door to close it you need new door hardware. they have a pin and bushing set
Broncograveyard has door panel handle kits. Thick sheet metal Adds more support to the worn sheet metal that holds the handle hardware. Doors open easily now
Need 2 kits for our 1981 Broncos, please make an 80-96 Bronco kit!!
Nice truck!
Wow.....i need that tool and an impact driver....it took me two hours with a hammer and punch and i never could get the compression fitting to break. I gave up and left it.
Do you make a cab mount kit for the 1987-1996 Ford Trucks?
With the removal tool, does it matter if the threaded rod starts to rotate with the nut as you tighten it?
I'm trying to reduce my height. Some dork put 5" tall bushings and my body is so high that my bumpers don't fit correctly
Are you jacking up the frame or the cab from the frame?
Yikes $450 is steep for some silicone mounts
Yes, you get what you pay for.
where you live so I can take my F250. Some carne asada and a 12pk.
Lol
Where can I order the actual brackets I bought a 4 door long bed and it’s missing both of the brackets on the driver side the previous own put two pieces of steel there and racket strapped it down
I believe LMC truck has them.
I wonder if that kit would work for my 78
Can you purchase those nifty removal tools?
Do you know who makes that adjustable jack height extender in the video 3:45?
Jeffrey,
Its a Pro eagle "Off road Jack Extension 8" or 15" www.proeagle.com/products/floor-jack-extension-00000
You need to purchase their floor jack lift pad as well.
Thanks,
Ryan
How do these mounts affect cabin noise? What is the difference of before and after cabin noise?
will be less on my HD, should get rid of that cab on rail clank lol
for even less cabin noise, get rid of that noisy single shot engine lol (loudest production diesel ever made..., fyi. fact)
@@galehess6676 I had an early 90s F350 flatbed with the 7.3L Diesel. That engine was obnoxiously loud. Always felt like it was going to blow up any second. I sold that truck 8 years ago and I believe it is still running just fine.
Will those work for a 1994 f150 single cab as well or are they only for the cc sd trucks?
Yung, These will work for a 1994 F150 Single cab. You can find the product page here www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford/1980-1996-obs.
Thanks,
Ryan
Yung, these are not SD or superduty trucks, the video misspoke. 92-96 F150 and 1997 F250HD /F350 are compatible with the mounts.
@@TheRoadhammer379 1980 to 1997 Broncos, F 250, OBS stuff, can use these.. $475 total with tax in PA
@@galehess6676, yes sir, Fords long production run, a lot of stuff stayed interchangeable through the years.
@@TheRoadhammer379 lucky us!
That looks like a stock kit , does the company offer something bigger on body lift
These are stock height replacement.
Good video.
Will this fit on a 94 Ford Bronco?
Hello Jace,
Thank you for choosing S&B filters. Unfortunately we don't carry or make body mounts for Ford Bronco. Keep checking back because we might in the future. Im including the link to our site that shows which Ford mounts we do carry. www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford
Part # for 96 ranger splash 2wd
Man I got a reciprocating saw to this job. And didn't have to completely remove the tank, just dropped it a little.
Hello there,
I am glad to see that you were able to get this done efficiently without removing the tank.
$400 are you stoned?
Go price the bolts and removal tool directly from Ford, neither are cheap. You can buy cheap polyurethane body mounts but without the removal tool you will be hard pressed to separate the mounts without cutting them off entirely.