I have been using harvest king for about two years. I was a little nervous when I seen it on project farm hoping it wasn’t terrible, turned out It’s really good. It’s the cheapest oil I have around for me. I spend my money on a good two-stroke oil I’m not too picky on Bar oil.
Agreed. Use something cheap that is meant for bars. If cutting in really cold temps, a bit of 5w20 engine oil mixed with the bar oil helps it flow better. Don't use gear oil, auto transmission fluid, or used motor oil if you want someone else to work on your saw though. It makes a huge mess and smells, the local shop won't even touch them if you do that.
I'm no shop but will work on saws for friends, family and sometimes friends of theirs in my free time. I try to be polite about it but make it well known that I hate working on saws that have been running gear oil and do not like waste oil saws any better. Have gotten a few to change their ways🙂
Saw mechanics I have dealt with in logging told me there are only two bar oil plants in this country. Their feedstock is used motor oil they purify, thicken, and color. All bar oil comes out of these two plants regardless of whose brand is on the jug label. Right on about used motor oil. Don't do it. It does not cling properly and is messy. If you want to use a substitute for regular bar oil you can use used 75-90 weight gear oil from transmissions and differentials. It is somewhat clingy compared to motor oil. I have known logging companies who save such used gear oil from their shop for use on saw bars. With used gear oil you have to let it sit for a few days so the cooties sink to the bottom and then pour off top 90%. It works OK in a pinch, but it does have that sulfur smell of gear oil.
He is completely wrong about the number of oil plants. We have several in wisconsin. There is one in kansas one in minnesota one in kentucky. Those are the ones I know of. None of them use used motor oil.
I use county line because it's cheap and works too. I do add a half quart of Lucas oil stabilizer to every gallon. It's nice and stringy, still pours in -10 temps, and stays stringy even when it's hot. Works like a dream. Honestly I probably only need a quart of Lucas for every 4 gallons to be effective. Good video! Honest words here.
I have a 16 inch Ryobi RY3716 , and have been using that County Line bar oil . My new Powercare chain hasn't been near as hot as the one i used before . Much less stretching , bar and chain barely warm to the touch. Main thing , though is keep chain oil in the tank , so all is lubricated.
For years i blindly used Husqvarna oil from Lowes. It WAS reasonably priced (under $13 a gallon) and had a manufacturers name on it so must've been good enough! Then when it almost doubled in price😳 I started looking elsewhere. Waiting for county line to go back on sale now😁
Just don’t use vegetable oil. I found motor oil made my pants a mess as I don’t wear chaps. And when it hits -30c up here in Canada you want light weight bar oil. You got a hard time to poor it out of the jug. Regular bar oil you got a good chance of stripping out your oil drive gear in those temperatures
Far from me to tell anyone what to do, but if when you feel the need to buy oil, if you put it in an engine first where it will do some good, and rotate it through that way, maybe it won’t be so nasty when you run it later in your bar. Back when oil was actually cheap, a dollar a quart, not only did free oil pay for a new bar, run your saw enough and it would pay for a new saw vs buying bar oil. I know because we tested it. Now if a guy is only using a gallon a year and takes his truck to jiffy lube once every couple of years, it’s definitely more convenient to buy oil, but if you are going through 55 gallon drums of the stuff, get it for free and keep clean oil in your vehicles is my advice. It’ll pay dividends in saw costs and vehicle engine life. If motor oil will oil my 42” bar running 36hr a week back in the day, it’ll oil your bar as well. 👍🏼👍🏼
I got a gallon of that kind recently, still haven't had a chance to try it but what I've used prior was Itasca brand because it was really thick and didn't go hard in cold weather, it's far more lubricating for saws that put out marginal amounts like for example a 460 rancher w/24" or a 550xp w/20"
I usually use the cheap stuff. I am running through a few gallons of Itasca its pretty good. Got it on sale for $8 per gallon. Its like 22 bucks now in my area.
Project farm was the house brand of Atwoods. Called Harvest King( had to run and check) . He said it tested best and I just bought two gallons for 7 dollars a gallon on sale. Seems to work.
I watched that video when he posted it. I was very surprised the Harvest King stuff easily out did the name brand bar oils because I always just kind of passed it up while I was looking around our farm store. Then I became disappointed knowing that I bought a bottle of the Husqvarna oil a few months prior. But we can't predict things so there's no point in being disappointed. That just means use up the over priced Husqvarna stuff and go buy a 2gallon jug of Harvest King for $15 :)
I always used all Sthil oils and then I figured out that for what you pay their really not that good to begin with. Now all I use for the bar is Countyline, seem's to do a better job and it's a good deal cheaper. For 2-cycle it's Echo Red Armor.
in Italy, you can only use biodegradable oil (it sucks, it's thick and sticky, after a few months it becomes solid rubber), I only use vegetable seed oil, too fluid, but for €1.5 L
I used to do a 50/50 mix of canola oil & mineral oil which did ok for what it was. But the moment it became very cold out it just went solid like if you were to put your cooking oil in the refrigerator. I also was worried that it would have eventually gummed up the oil pump in my saw so I just stopped using it. It also wasn't any cheaper than buying bar oil specifically made for chainsaw bars. So it was kind of pointless. The only real benefit it had was being environmentally friendly.
Same shit I use , a quart of echo bar oil is the same price as a gallon of the shit I use. It is the same color (clear) feels the same tastes the same works the exact same way. Both kept bar cool and came off at about the same rate one just twice as much
I have MFA oil out here and they have some brand called Xtreme. Cold hot it doesn’t really matter to me. $9.50 for a 5 quart jug is awful hard to beat. Seems to oil a chain pretty good and my bars aren’t discolored. Been using it for 3 years now and find it hard to stomach $15-$20 a gallon stuff.
Motor oil is too thin unless it’s 40 weight or higher also it has no tackifier in it to help it stay on the chain from slinging right off. Gear oil is tacky but it stinks because of the sulfur in it.
I don't know if you have a Running's store in your area. But the cheap bar oil that won out on Project Farms' test video was called Harvest King and it goes for $15 for a 2 gallon jug in my area. Another viewer said they buy the same 2 gallon jug at their own local farm store for $18. So it's looking like Harvest King is their own brand sold by different farm stores.
@@Slane583It’s almost like TSC is just a little bit on the greedy side if they are charging the same price to their customers for 1gal as you can get from that other retailer for 2gal. It makes people wonder 🧐🤨
@@ToddAdams1234 Oh I don't doubt it. I took a look on their website earlier to see how much the County Line stuff was going for and they have two formulations at different prices. The normal stuff is $13 a gallon and their winter formula is $18 a gallon. The Harvest King oil is an all season formula and goes for $15 for 2 gallons at our Running's store. We have two TSC stores in the area but I like Running's much more. Running's is like a mix of TSC, Lowes and Gander Mountain all rolled into one.
@@ToddAdams1234 I'm located as far north in New York as you can go before hitting Canada. Running's wasn't a thing for us either until our store opened up just a few years ago. According to their website the company originated in Minnesota.
I use County Line Bar & Chain Oil. Why? Super Tech is $16.18/gallon, & County Line is $8.99/gallon today. On any given day, County Line is cheaper. At times, it's on sale for $2/gallon less. If I am visiting a Farm & Fleet store further away, I may pick up a gallon of Mystik Bar & Chain oil (currently $7.99/gallon). Paying extra for bar & chain oil is lame.
Novice, up here in Alaska we cut wood in extremely cold temperatures -20 to -40f do you think adding a small amount of say heet or ban-ice to a gallon of bar oil would help? Because most people use 2-stroke castrol that pours in frigid temps, but more importantly goes thru the oiler I just use 10w 30 or 40 in the summer and fall!!! Hell I would use wesson oil in a pinch!! Wouldnt try Seal oil though that would be absolutely putrid and I suspect the tree would fall down before the chain touched it!!!lol
On the single rivet bars you will blow out sprocket tips if you do not have a good anti-sling additive in the bar oil. Maybe adding some kind of motor honey to cheaper oils makes it sling less?? Also whoever works on your saw will hate you for using used motor oil, biggest nastiest mess.
Ironically, all bar oil preferences of mine are decided when the saws not even running. Does it pour out of the bottle well when its cold? Does it weep out of the saw in the bed of the truck when its hot? Do they sell it somewhere i go on a regular basis? Once its in the saw, its all the same to me. Buckins videos with the eco shit has made me think a little bit though. Not about spending $30 a quart on oil, but do some oils that i would try, result in a cleaner saw. Might do some experimenting with that
His claim of a cleaner saw got my attention aswell. I'd definitely give it a try if it was $20 or less a gallon! But $40+ each or $100 for 4 gallons before shipping... no thanks.
@aaronpowell4885 honestly...I might give it a try for $25 a gallon. I've only seen it sold by the quart for what I normally pay for a gallon. In my use case in particular, having to test run each saw before its sent back to the customer, if I could make a couple cuts and have the saw wipe clean afterwards rather than be a mess that I gotta clean up...could be worth it.
Try the Walmart SuperTec brand. New stuff is sticky and it's red so you can see it on the bar. That or CountyLine is the only thing available to me other than the big names. Kinetix is another good bar oil.
In the blue bottle? If so, great to hear they've changed it! Noticed they also have "Hyper Tough" in a black bottle now. Wonder if it's the same as "Black Max"🤔
@@aaronpowell4885 yea the blue bottle has been great for me. Went up a few bucks but seems well worth it. 👍🏻 probably BlackMax and Hyper Tough is the same. Next time I go I'll grab some and see.
@@dubbssawshop thanks for sharing👍🏻 may have to give it a try. Years ago a friend got some that just seemed like sea30. Thin and no tack. Ignored it since then lol
i guy on you tested a bunch of bar oil , after all the testing was done a brand called harvest king came out on top , i picked up a 2 gallon jug for 17 dollars at a north 40 store ,.good bar oil at a great price,
Up here in the cold country, I use county line, cold weather, bar and chain oil. In the summertime when it’s warm up here in the north country, I use county line, regular bar and chain oil LMAO.
@@modarkthemauler it won't work at those Temps it will break down. That is an inaccurate test. Some real test has been done in the diesel world. Adding veg oil in fuel, to prevent excessive wear. Look into bio fuel. I used to refine used cooking oil from restaurants. That's a big habit hole.
I just bought a chainsaw that the guy ran vegetable oil. What a stick mess. The oil went hard in the oil pump from sitting a month and when I started it the oil pump drive stripped out. What a mess. I had to take the oil pump apart and heat it to clean it. I’d never use that shit
You should have titled this "The Truth About Bar and Chain Oils". I've seen other RUclipsrs do "The Truth About" videos and I think it must trigger something in the algorithm. My advice would be to do a whole series with that preface and watch the views stack up lol. TTA Husqvarna vs. Stihl, chainsaw safety, porting saws, auto tune vs Mtronic, getting a sharp chain, Joe Biden's dementia, Harvey, etc. 😮 That said, I used to run Stihl Ultra and Stihl Premium bar oil, both of which seem to be engineered to keep you buying Stihl parts so take my unsolicited internet advice for what you paid for it.
So what brand of oil was that again? I think I missed it!😂🤣😂
I have been using harvest king for about two years. I was a little nervous when I seen it on project farm hoping it wasn’t terrible, turned out It’s really good. It’s the cheapest oil I have around for me. I spend my money on a good two-stroke oil I’m not too picky on Bar oil.
I can’t find any near me in Cincinnati, OH. Does Rural king not list it on their website?
Agreed. Use something cheap that is meant for bars. If cutting in really cold temps, a bit of 5w20 engine oil mixed with the bar oil helps it flow better. Don't use gear oil, auto transmission fluid, or used motor oil if you want someone else to work on your saw though. It makes a huge mess and smells, the local shop won't even touch them if you do that.
I'm no shop but will work on saws for friends, family and sometimes friends of theirs in my free time. I try to be polite about it but make it well known that I hate working on saws that have been running gear oil and do not like waste oil saws any better. Have gotten a few to change their ways🙂
Yep I use the cheap harvest king oil and it works great. 18 bucks for 2 gallons!
Saw mechanics I have dealt with in logging told me there are only two bar oil plants in this country. Their feedstock is used motor oil they purify, thicken, and color. All bar oil comes out of these two plants regardless of whose brand is on the jug label. Right on about used motor oil. Don't do it. It does not cling properly and is messy. If you want to use a substitute for regular bar oil you can use used 75-90 weight gear oil from transmissions and differentials. It is somewhat clingy compared to motor oil. I have known logging companies who save such used gear oil from their shop for use on saw bars. With used gear oil you have to let it sit for a few days so the cooties sink to the bottom and then pour off top 90%. It works OK in a pinch, but it does have that sulfur smell of gear oil.
He is completely wrong about the number of oil plants. We have several in wisconsin. There is one in kansas one in minnesota one in kentucky. Those are the ones I know of. None of them use used motor oil.
Project Farm just did a bar oil video recently. The cheapest oil did by far the best. The most expensive ones were pretty pitiful.
I saw that too. So with all that is said Harvest King it is.
I use county line because it's cheap and works too. I do add a half quart of Lucas oil stabilizer to every gallon. It's nice and stringy, still pours in -10 temps, and stays stringy even when it's hot. Works like a dream. Honestly I probably only need a quart of Lucas for every 4 gallons to be effective. Good video! Honest words here.
I have a 16 inch Ryobi RY3716 , and have been using that County Line bar oil . My new Powercare chain hasn't been near as hot as the one i used before . Much less stretching , bar and chain barely warm to the touch. Main thing , though is keep chain oil in the tank , so all is lubricated.
For years i blindly used Husqvarna oil from Lowes. It WAS reasonably priced (under $13 a gallon) and had a manufacturers name on it so must've been good enough! Then when it almost doubled in price😳 I started looking elsewhere. Waiting for county line to go back on sale now😁
Just don’t use vegetable oil. I found motor oil made my pants a mess as I don’t wear chaps. And when it hits -30c up here in Canada you want light weight bar oil. You got a hard time to poor it out of the jug. Regular bar oil you got a good chance of stripping out your oil drive gear in those temperatures
Far from me to tell anyone what to do, but if when you feel the need to buy oil, if you put it in an engine first where it will do some good, and rotate it through that way, maybe it won’t be so nasty when you run it later in your bar. Back when oil was actually cheap, a dollar a quart, not only did free oil pay for a new bar, run your saw enough and it would pay for a new saw vs buying bar oil. I know because we tested it. Now if a guy is only using a gallon a year and takes his truck to jiffy lube once every couple of years, it’s definitely more convenient to buy oil, but if you are going through 55 gallon drums of the stuff, get it for free and keep clean oil in your vehicles is my advice. It’ll pay dividends in saw costs and vehicle engine life. If motor oil will oil my 42” bar running 36hr a week back in the day, it’ll oil your bar as well. 👍🏼👍🏼
I got a gallon of that kind recently, still haven't had a chance to try it but what I've used prior was Itasca brand because it was really thick and didn't go hard in cold weather, it's far more lubricating for saws that put out marginal amounts like for example a 460 rancher w/24" or a 550xp w/20"
I usually use the cheap stuff. I am running through a few gallons of Itasca its pretty good. Got it on sale for $8 per gallon. Its like 22 bucks now in my area.
You can thicken gear oil with grease. Bit messy to do. We used it on race bike chains way back when.
Project farm was the house brand of Atwoods. Called Harvest King( had to run and check) . He said it tested best and I just bought two gallons for 7 dollars a gallon on sale. Seems to work.
I watched that video when he posted it. I was very surprised the Harvest King stuff easily out did the name brand bar oils because I always just kind of passed it up while I was looking around our farm store. Then I became disappointed knowing that I bought a bottle of the Husqvarna oil a few months prior. But we can't predict things so there's no point in being disappointed. That just means use up the over priced Husqvarna stuff and go buy a 2gallon jug of Harvest King for $15 :)
Canola oil mixed with a litle 2 stroke oil works great for me at about 1,5 $ a quart... Clean bar/chain and no overheating problems.
What ratio?
@@scott5803 40:1 just like i use for gas mixing
I used some cheap bar and chain oil but it caked up sawdust inside the clutch cover.
I always used all Sthil oils and then I figured out that for what you pay their really not that good to begin with. Now all I use for the bar is Countyline, seem's to do a better job and it's a good deal cheaper. For 2-cycle it's Echo Red Armor.
in Italy, you can only use biodegradable oil (it sucks, it's thick and sticky, after a few months it becomes solid rubber), I only use vegetable seed oil, too fluid, but for €1.5 L
I used to do a 50/50 mix of canola oil & mineral oil which did ok for what it was. But the moment it became very cold out it just went solid like if you were to put your cooking oil in the refrigerator. I also was worried that it would have eventually gummed up the oil pump in my saw so I just stopped using it. It also wasn't any cheaper than buying bar oil specifically made for chainsaw bars. So it was kind of pointless. The only real benefit it had was being environmentally friendly.
Same shit I use , a quart of echo bar oil is the same price as a gallon of the shit I use. It is the same color (clear) feels the same tastes the same works the exact same way. Both kept bar cool and came off at about the same rate one just twice as much
I have MFA oil out here and they have some brand called Xtreme. Cold hot it doesn’t really matter to me. $9.50 for a 5 quart jug is awful hard to beat. Seems to oil a chain pretty good and my bars aren’t discolored. Been using it for 3 years now and find it hard to stomach $15-$20 a gallon stuff.
Motor oil is too thin unless it’s 40 weight or higher also it has no tackifier in it to help it stay on the chain from slinging right off. Gear oil is tacky but it stinks because of the sulfur in it.
I just found a purple colored Poulan Pro. It's a little thin, should be good to use in the winter.
The stuff in the green bottle? Or black bottle? I never knew any of it was purple! That's awesome!
@@novicelumberjack black gallon jug with yellow label.
Went to tractor supply the other day and county line bar oil was $18 a gallon…nope not today..wasn’t that long ago i bought it there for under $10
I don't know if you have a Running's store in your area. But the cheap bar oil that won out on Project Farms' test video was called Harvest King and it goes for $15 for a 2 gallon jug in my area. Another viewer said they buy the same 2 gallon jug at their own local farm store for $18. So it's looking like Harvest King is their own brand sold by different farm stores.
@@Slane583It’s almost like TSC is just a little bit on the greedy side if they are charging the same price to their customers for 1gal as you can get from that other retailer for 2gal. It makes people wonder 🧐🤨
@@ToddAdams1234 Oh I don't doubt it. I took a look on their website earlier to see how much the County Line stuff was going for and they have two formulations at different prices. The normal stuff is $13 a gallon and their winter formula is $18 a gallon.
The Harvest King oil is an all season formula and goes for $15 for 2 gallons at our Running's store. We have two TSC stores in the area but I like Running's much more. Running's is like a mix of TSC, Lowes and Gander Mountain all rolled into one.
@@Slane583 I’ve never seen/heard of “runnings”, where’s your part of the world?
@@ToddAdams1234 I'm located as far north in New York as you can go before hitting Canada. Running's wasn't a thing for us either until our store opened up just a few years ago. According to their website the company originated in Minnesota.
I use County Line Bar & Chain Oil. Why? Super Tech is $16.18/gallon, & County Line is $8.99/gallon today. On any given day, County Line is cheaper. At times, it's on sale for $2/gallon less. If I am visiting a Farm & Fleet store further away, I may pick up a gallon of Mystik Bar & Chain oil (currently $7.99/gallon). Paying extra for bar & chain oil is lame.
Wow big spender compared to me. I make my own batches with leftover oils sitting around in the shop works just fine.
Old engine oil is acidic and promotes rust quick fast in a hurry.
Novice, up here in Alaska we cut wood in extremely cold temperatures -20 to -40f do you think adding a small amount of say heet or ban-ice to a gallon of bar oil would help? Because most people use 2-stroke castrol that pours in frigid temps, but more importantly goes thru the oiler I just use 10w 30 or 40 in the summer and fall!!! Hell I would use wesson oil in a pinch!! Wouldnt try Seal oil though that would be absolutely putrid and I suspect the tree would fall down before the chain touched it!!!lol
Personally I'd be leary of adding alcohol to bar oil because of the rubber lines and seals in the saw. Maby a little kerosene/diesel or ATF?
Good point, transmission fluid sounds good!!
You know I'm surprised none of the manufacturers have made an extreme cold formula
On the single rivet bars you will blow out sprocket tips if you do not have a good anti-sling additive in the bar oil.
Maybe adding some kind of motor honey to cheaper oils makes it sling less??
Also whoever works on your saw will hate you for using used motor oil, biggest nastiest mess.
Drain oil is a saws worst enemy. I run essence brand bar oil and have never had a issue
Dlaczego piła Husqvarna Air Injection podczas pracy gwiżdźe????
Ironically, all bar oil preferences of mine are decided when the saws not even running. Does it pour out of the bottle well when its cold? Does it weep out of the saw in the bed of the truck when its hot? Do they sell it somewhere i go on a regular basis? Once its in the saw, its all the same to me.
Buckins videos with the eco shit has made me think a little bit though. Not about spending $30 a quart on oil, but do some oils that i would try, result in a cleaner saw. Might do some experimenting with that
His claim of a cleaner saw got my attention aswell. I'd definitely give it a try if it was $20 or less a gallon! But $40+ each or $100 for 4 gallons before shipping... no thanks.
@aaronpowell4885 honestly...I might give it a try for $25 a gallon. I've only seen it sold by the quart for what I normally pay for a gallon. In my use case in particular, having to test run each saw before its sent back to the customer, if I could make a couple cuts and have the saw wipe clean afterwards rather than be a mess that I gotta clean up...could be worth it.
Try the Walmart SuperTec brand. New stuff is sticky and it's red so you can see it on the bar. That or CountyLine is the only thing available to me other than the big names. Kinetix is another good bar oil.
In the blue bottle? If so, great to hear they've changed it!
Noticed they also have "Hyper Tough" in a black bottle now. Wonder if it's the same as "Black Max"🤔
@@aaronpowell4885 yea the blue bottle has been great for me. Went up a few bucks but seems well worth it. 👍🏻 probably BlackMax and Hyper Tough is the same. Next time I go I'll grab some and see.
@@dubbssawshop thanks for sharing👍🏻 may have to give it a try. Years ago a friend got some that just seemed like sea30. Thin and no tack. Ignored it since then lol
i guy on you tested a bunch of bar oil , after all the testing was done a brand called harvest king came out on top , i picked up a 2 gallon jug for 17 dollars at a north 40 store ,.good bar oil at a great price,
Up here in the cold country, I use county line, cold weather, bar and chain oil. In the summertime when it’s warm up here in the north country, I use county line, regular bar and chain oil LMAO.
Not joking.
You gotta try it.
You gotta add some vegetable oil to bar oil.
Super slippery 😊
Comment from me today 😊
I don't remember which video it was but Project Farm tested vegetable oil as a engine oil substitute and is had less friction that regular motor oil.
@@modarkthemauler it won't work at those Temps it will break down. That is an inaccurate test.
Some real test has been done in the diesel world. Adding veg oil in fuel, to prevent excessive wear.
Look into bio fuel. I used to refine used cooking oil from restaurants.
That's a big habit hole.
I just bought a chainsaw that the guy ran vegetable oil. What a stick mess. The oil went hard in the oil pump from sitting a month and when I started it the oil pump drive stripped out. What a mess. I had to take the oil pump apart and heat it to clean it. I’d never use that shit
This comment thread is rather funny. Thanks guys!
Australia
👍👍
I use cobra brand bar oil best I found so far
So, are you saying we all need to use County Line????
you can you rapeseed oil and it works fine. Any bar oil is fine. it's not that hard.
Hey, I have a closed port Husqvarna 55 cylinder would you be interested in buying it?
Yes.
You should have titled this "The Truth About Bar and Chain Oils". I've seen other RUclipsrs do "The Truth About" videos and I think it must trigger something in the algorithm. My advice would be to do a whole series with that preface and watch the views stack up lol. TTA Husqvarna vs. Stihl, chainsaw safety, porting saws, auto tune vs Mtronic, getting a sharp chain, Joe Biden's dementia, Harvey, etc. 😮 That said, I used to run Stihl Ultra and Stihl Premium bar oil, both of which seem to be engineered to keep you buying Stihl parts so take my unsolicited internet advice for what you paid for it.
Gear oil.
Stolen oil.
Either one is good.
Australia
STP from Autozone, because it's the cheapest and I don't give a shit.
I use tge cheap stuff from napa don't mater to me I don't use a saw that much
Used oil sucks as bar oil. Please.dont.❤
😂😂😂
😂 1:20