I'm a beginner and learning SO much every day! My worst mistake so far? Starting a business before I perfected technique. I'm selling items, but it's taking me a few tries to get it right. But videos like THIS are making it very clear the areas I need to change and work on to make my work look more professional. Thank you so much for making videos some ppl would think was insignificant. But it LITERALLY just saved my business!! Thank you SO much!!!
I'm new to resin and I loooove it but didn't know there was a deep pour kind. I've been watching your videos for about 2 hours now. I've learned so much!!!! Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for showing this Steve & for your advice on FB. That’s why being a member is so very helpful. If I’m not sure which to use I can always ask. As you know 😊
We put our 1 to 1 JDiction resin container in warm water for just a bit and it gets rid of most of the bubbles. Then we put it in the molds and flame or pop the few bubbles do show up.
Hi Steve, Super duper tips thanks 👍 looking at the 2 end Results I thought the plain one came out quite cloudy looking & the other one was nice & clear ❤️👍
Oh that's awesome, thank you so much sir! I honestly didn't know this, this is remarkable and it truly explains a lot, I was wondering why I kept getting so many bubbles
Thank you for the resin mixer recommendation! I ordered this one and it’s great. I was worried it would be too fast but it went nice and slow once started in the resin. Using thick 300ml slowed it down too much so I switched to the second speed. Perfect! Thanks again!
Thank you for sharing this because I was wondering myself. I do have a question though. Does it make a difference when adding micro powder or items like dried flowers? That faceted one is gorgeous , especially with the light! I looked at your link & it was for the smooth one. Can you put the link for that faceted one please? Love watching your videos . Hope you have a great day. Thank you for sharing your creativity!! ❤
Hi I'm a beginner got everything I need but I have no idea how to store what ever I've made (havent made anything yet) whilst it cures I've watched your videos and love them thank you
I just got a sphere mold recently, and I need to order some resin soon, so this video was timed perfectly! Am I correct to assume, if I cast in multiple pours and cure the layers in between, flash curing won't be an issue? Also, I really like the bubble effect of the JDiction sphere, but I'm not gonna risk ruining my molds by trying to use it, but is there a way to intentionally get that effect? If I really mix the deep pour vigorously?
Anyone on the fence about joining the channel as a paid member to get access to the member's only facebook group, definitely well worth every penny! My favorite group - drama free, super helpful and lots of fun and hijinks. Take the plunge!
Hi Steve, can you use a silicone mould in a pressure pot without it distorting, and if so what do you set the pressure level at in the pot and for how long thanks
Hi Steve. I’ve just bought the Let’s Resin Casting and Coating resin to make egg for the Dragon in the egg mold for my grandson. Do you think it will be ok? Thank you x
Steve I’m pretty new to the resin game and I love the video you just done. I have 2 silicone molds that one is square and then on is round but these are hollow in the middle so you can put stuff in them. My question is do I need to use deep pour resin on those or can I use my jdiction regular resin? I just found your channel a couple of months ago. I have been binge watching your videos. I’m fascinated at the different projects you do and they come out so amazing. Thanks again. Be safe, love your best life and God Bless.
I love your videos. So informative. I do have a question. I’m making some small animals and different type of stuff for outside to put in my garden. What is best resin to use for outside😳
Thanks Steve. I'm working on testing with and without heat under them too as that makes them less viscous on shallow pours but the heat on deeper pours... interesting to see these reactions. Strangely the bubbles look good when you put that light underneath
With deep pour can you pour it all in one go? I have a large heart that I want to put flowers in, it’s about 4inches deep, or should I do layers? Thank you xx
Thanks you for doing this experiment, I’ve wondered but I’m too chicken to pour the 1-1 in sphere molds for fear I’ll ruin the mold- tried 1-1 in stages and got a very clear yet striped sphere😂
I am new to resin and have not been able to find any videos about long narrow resin projects. I am interested in recreating vintage inspired lucite non-burn candlesticks. I realize I will need to make my own silicone mold, but what tips can you give for which resin to use and preventing bubbles for long and narrow resin pours? The candles are anywhere from 8”-12” and a diameter similar to that of a dime (coin). Thank you for any information you (or anyone here) can provide. Thank you.
I got resin in the mail earlier the 1 thing I made cured fine the the rest of then never cured at all but I wad sure to do exact measurements how does that work & how do I clean that mess out
Feedback please: I just got a few xl trinket jars with lid- about 4 inches tall but about a cm thick for the exterior walls of the dish. Will 1-1 resin flash cure? My deep pour is back ordered till mid April.The center is hollow but the shapes throwing me off..
Hi Steve. Great Video, as always my love. the faceted sphere is awesome, I have tried to order it , but can only see the smooth one, unless my screen reader isnt telling me? Also, I tried to order the tee expert deep pour, but cant find it for the UK..am I just being dim? lol x
Hi Steve, I have a question I am believing in you to know a answer for me, I wanted to make a mold of a little bunny, only thing is, the bunny is a wax candle, would the heat from the mold mix melt my bunny? I truly trust your work and word. Thank you, your the best.
Steve, thanks so much for all these teaching moments. Do you consider something this size but maybe a vase or tea light candle holder to be considered a deep pour even though the walls are thin? Thank you.
@lauri Smith No, if the walls are quite thin (about 1/4"-3/8" all the way around, MAXIMUM), a 1:1 ratio should do fine. If you have ½" walls, you're probably asking for trouble, especially in cheap molds sold everywhere. Not so much trouble at ½" in the expensive (& very well-worth it!), heavy molds, such as those made by Julie Cutts from Pouring Your Heart Out. *HOWEVER!* Any flash curing can not only destroy your mold (& cause a fire!), it can also dull the mold surface so that it's never as shiny as it was. No need to ask me how I found these things out... Anything *above* 1/2" to _no more than_ a 2" depth should be a deep pour resin, usually with 2:1 ratio. Anything above 2" needs a 3:1 ratio resin to prevent flash curing.
True resins usually work the same. The problem I think is in the cosmetic effect of the resins that differs..ie. yellowing, and sometimes I find it harder to remove bubbles.
Yes, you can. You have to bear in mind that any additives will sink, as the resin is more runny. I use it to make Christmas trees. The mica powder sinks, giving them a nice silvery sheen. It's also good if embedding complex shapes in resin, as you get fewer bubbles sticking to the edges of the object. Takes about 3 days to cure though.
I once made a globe that was meant to look like a goldfish swimming horizontally in a bowl. I used a fake fish and some artificial seaweed made of soft, bendy plastic. The resin I used was Liquid Cast, which was a 1:1 ratio meant for deep pours. Like the resin you used for the non-faceted sphere, it heated up quickly and warped the seaweed, which also affected the placement of the goldfish. When it started heating up/warping, I went into a panic and proceeded to put in the seashells, hoping that would solve the problem. Though the piece didn’t turn out the way I intended, it still looked pretty nice and made for a cool lamp, so it wasn’t a total loss. I since discovered Amazing Deep Pour resin by Alumilite, which is a 2:1 ratio that produces clear, bubble-free castings even without a pressure pot or vacuum chamber. Though it takes much longer to set (1-2 days), Amazing Deep Pour is now my go-to resin, and I’ll never use Liquid Cast again. It’s a bummer I didn’t know about it before making my goldfish globe. Live and learn, or die and burn. 😊
I need to ask you a resin question. I use a good brand when I cure my projects and it’s the best one I found out there. But what I’m trying to ask is what does it mean when you make something with resin and part of the project cures and some of them don’t it’s like still go away and sticky. Does that mean I put the wrong mixture together or I didn’t pour enough in the mold. Because that type that doesn’t really measure my resin when I poured in my projects, I do like a little bit of this a little bit of that. If you can answer back when you get a free chance, that be great from a fellow Crafter’s.
Hi! I'm new at resin and started making bookmarks. I have run into a problem where after curing for 2 days, sometimes they are bendy. I have double checked all the possible issues: temperature, mixing ratio, ratio of colorant to epoxy and I cannot figure out why this happens!!!!! Ideas??
Teexpert is usually cheaper for deep pour and it is decent resin. On that vein, one Teexpert product I DON’T recommend is the 4 hour cure. It doesn’t cure in anywhere near 4 hours and it pulled the color out of my foil flakes causing my project to be tinted with it. Never had that happen with any other resin. JDiction 4 hour is great!
@@libbyannbest1723 Trying to remember, I have so many different resins! I have only used their regular resin from a free 8oz sample but it was a long time ago. Fast cure was for sure in a pressure pot with warming mat underneath it. Deep pour was at room temp as I don’t put heat to that since it kind of defeats the purpose. These are all referencing Teexpert products I’ve tried.
I have 5-five resin from Italy, but I still get bubbles inside. A lot of small-small bubbles. I started to think it’s because of the high humidity 55%. Other masters use the same resin successfully.
The resin ain't the problem. *FINDING THE RIGHT RESIN* is the problem. Most resins don't have adequate demonstration videos to go with them. Or they don't post the technical data like viscosity or shore hardness. So it's lots of trial & error & wasted money. More failures than successes. Everything has to be perfect. The temperature of the resin, the temperature of the room, the moisture level of the room, the size of the mold you're trying to pour into etc. Believe me, I know! I've been at it for decades & I still can't find the perfect resins. I'm settling with "close enough". And then you have the problem of shelf life. You need to use it as fast as possible before it goes bad. But if you don't have anything to do at the moment it will start crystalizing. I've bought resins & mold rubber from stores like Michaels & Hobby Lobby that were sitting there too long & were no good. Nobody tells you this stuff. I had to learn it all the hard way. And it's almost impossible to find a RUclips video that addresses your specific needs. Every time I try to find a video about clear resins to use for tiny toy parts, all I can find are videos about huge wood turning or tabletop projects. If you want to get into this it has a very high frustration level & a steep learning curve. Lots of experimenting & lots of failures (depending on the type of project).
I'm a beginner and learning SO much every day! My worst mistake so far? Starting a business before I perfected technique. I'm selling items, but it's taking me a few tries to get it right. But videos like THIS are making it very clear the areas I need to change and work on to make my work look more professional. Thank you so much for making videos some ppl would think was insignificant. But it LITERALLY just saved my business!! Thank you SO much!!!
Thank you! I’m learning so much from you and I really enjoy listening to you ☀️
I appreciate your tips, tests and all suggestions! You make us better by sharing your knowledge! Thank you Steve 😊!!!
I'm new to resin and I loooove it but didn't know there was a deep pour kind. I've been watching your videos for about 2 hours now. I've learned so much!!!! Thank you!!!!!
I love when you do videos like this. I find them very helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for showing this Steve & for your advice on FB. That’s why being a member is so very helpful. If I’m not sure which to use I can always ask. As you know 😊
We put our 1 to 1 JDiction resin container in warm water for just a bit and it gets rid of most of the bubbles. Then we put it in the molds and flame or pop the few bubbles do show up.
Thank you, Dr. Mc.
Thanks, this kind of stuff is really useful
Hi Steve, Super duper tips thanks 👍 looking at the 2 end Results I thought the plain one came out quite cloudy looking & the other one was nice & clear ❤️👍
Thanks Steve! You rock, just like this video!
The faceted one is so crystal clear, I love how it turned out! Love your channel!
Amazing! You can see the difference immediately! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks again, Steve. You always give the best advice. 😄
Oh that's awesome, thank you so much sir! I honestly didn't know this, this is remarkable and it truly explains a lot, I was wondering why I kept getting so many bubbles
Luv the faceted 1 looks like a huge crystal
Thank you for the resin mixer recommendation! I ordered this one and it’s great. I was worried it would be too fast but it went nice and slow once started in the resin. Using thick 300ml slowed it down too much so I switched to the second speed. Perfect! Thanks again!
Thank you for this video, I've now got better knowledge and understanding 😊
I like the bubbles in the one
Thank you for sharing this because I was wondering myself. I do have a question though. Does it make a difference when adding micro powder or items like dried flowers? That faceted one is gorgeous , especially with the light! I looked at your link & it was for the smooth one. Can you put the link for that faceted one please? Love watching your videos . Hope you have a great day. Thank you for sharing your creativity!! ❤
@@SteveMcDonaldArtsandCrafts Thank you so much! 🤗🙂
Waaaaa !! I thought it was meant for it because of how quick it cured?!
Hi I'm a beginner got everything I need but I have no idea how to store what ever I've made (havent made anything yet) whilst it cures I've watched your videos and love them thank you
I just got a sphere mold recently, and I need to order some resin soon, so this video was timed perfectly!
Am I correct to assume, if I cast in multiple pours and cure the layers in between, flash curing won't be an issue? Also, I really like the bubble effect of the JDiction sphere, but I'm not gonna risk ruining my molds by trying to use it, but is there a way to intentionally get that effect? If I really mix the deep pour vigorously?
I dont use deep pour resin for my deeper moulds and they turn out great!
Thanks
Thank you🇨🇦🦤✌
Anyone on the fence about joining the channel as a paid member to get access to the member's only facebook group, definitely well worth every penny! My favorite group - drama free, super helpful and lots of fun and hijinks. Take the plunge!
Thank you!
Thanks!
Hi Steve, I love these but I want the faceted one. Do you have ths link to that one. Thank you as always.
Hi Steve, can you use a silicone mould in a pressure pot without it distorting, and if so what do you set the pressure level at in the pot and for how long thanks
Hi Steve. I’ve just bought the Let’s Resin Casting and Coating resin to make egg for the Dragon in the egg mold for my grandson. Do you think it will be ok? Thank you x
Steve I’m pretty new to the resin game and I love the video you just done. I have 2 silicone molds that one is square and then on is round but these are hollow in the middle so you can put stuff in them. My question is do I need to use deep pour resin on those or can I use my jdiction regular resin? I just found your channel a couple of months ago. I have been binge watching your videos. I’m fascinated at the different projects you do and they come out so amazing. Thanks again. Be safe, love your best life and God Bless.
I just LOVE that faceted mould Steve where is it from as it would make awesome finials for my banister posts
If I do a cylinder pour, with multiple pours to add color or items to it, does it leave visible demarcation lines in the finished product?
I love your videos. So informative. I do have a question. I’m making some small animals and different type of stuff for outside to put in my garden.
What is best resin to use for outside😳
Thanks Steve. I'm working on testing with and without heat under them too as that makes them less viscous on shallow pours but the heat on deeper pours... interesting to see these reactions. Strangely the bubbles look good when you put that light underneath
Thank you so much 👍 this as helped me so much 😁😄😁🫡
can you do a video on textured art.?🙋♀
With deep pour can you pour it all in one go? I have a large heart that I want to put flowers in, it’s about 4inches deep, or should I do layers? Thank you xx
Can you use a deep resin for a shallow pour?
What is the best resin for flowers? I’m doing ring holders and 4” and 5” cubes.
Thanks you for doing this experiment, I’ve wondered but I’m too chicken to pour the 1-1 in sphere molds for fear I’ll ruin the mold- tried 1-1 in stages and got a very clear yet striped sphere😂
Amazing Deep Pour resin by Alumilite is the best! You won’t need to pour in layers.
I am new to resin and have not been able to find any videos about long narrow resin projects. I am interested in recreating vintage inspired lucite non-burn candlesticks. I realize I will need to make my own silicone mold, but what tips can you give for which resin to use and preventing bubbles for long and narrow resin pours? The candles are anywhere from 8”-12” and a diameter similar to that of a dime (coin). Thank you for any information you (or anyone here) can provide. Thank you.
What’s it like the other way. Using a deep pour for smaller projects.
I got resin in the mail earlier the 1 thing I made cured fine the the rest of then never cured at all but I wad sure to do exact measurements how does that work & how do I clean that mess out
Could you use deep pour resin on small items or shallow items and get a good result?
2:26 Always try to get 1:1 mix ratio. Keep it as easy as possible.
Hi, could i pour a 15 cm mould with deep pour resin i one pour?😊
I use to think I didn't need deep pour on things this size. And I was always disappointed in the results.
Feedback please: I just got a few xl trinket jars with lid- about 4 inches tall but about a cm thick for the exterior walls of the dish. Will 1-1 resin flash cure? My deep pour is back ordered till mid April.The center is hollow but the shapes throwing me off..
Hi Steve. Great Video, as always my love. the faceted sphere is awesome, I have tried to order it , but can only see the smooth one, unless my screen reader isnt telling me? Also, I tried to order the tee expert deep pour, but cant find it for the UK..am I just being dim? lol x
Hi Steve, I have a question I am believing in you to know a answer for me, I wanted to make a mold of a little bunny, only thing is, the bunny is a wax candle, would the heat from the mold mix melt my bunny? I truly trust your work and word. Thank you, your the best.
Steve, thanks so much for all these teaching moments. Do you consider something this size but maybe a vase or tea light candle holder to be considered a deep pour even though the walls are thin? Thank you.
@lauri Smith
No, if the walls are quite thin (about 1/4"-3/8" all the way around, MAXIMUM), a 1:1 ratio should do fine. If you have ½" walls, you're probably asking for trouble, especially in cheap molds sold everywhere. Not so much trouble at ½" in the expensive (& very well-worth it!), heavy molds, such as those made by Julie Cutts from Pouring Your Heart Out. *HOWEVER!* Any flash curing can not only destroy your mold (& cause a fire!), it can also dull the mold surface so that it's never as shiny as it was. No need to ask me how I found these things out...
Anything *above* 1/2" to _no more than_ a 2" depth should be a deep pour resin, usually with 2:1 ratio.
Anything above 2" needs a 3:1 ratio resin to prevent flash curing.
Hay there can mustered seeds be put in Resin
About how big should a mold be to use the deep pour resin
True resins usually work the same. The problem I think is in the cosmetic effect of the resins that differs..ie. yellowing, and sometimes I find it harder to remove bubbles.
What do you mean by true resins?
@@lisaforbes7325 I just missed the comma. True, resins...
Is it okay to use deep por resin in smaller molds also, I understand it will extend the curing time, I was just wondering if it was okay to do.
Yes, you can. You have to bear in mind that any additives will sink, as the resin is more runny. I use it to make Christmas trees. The mica powder sinks, giving them a nice silvery sheen. It's also good if embedding complex shapes in resin, as you get fewer bubbles sticking to the edges of the object. Takes about 3 days to cure though.
@@laurawilliams4005Have you ever used deep pour resin on a resin mat or inside a curing machine?
I once made a globe that was meant to look like a goldfish swimming horizontally in a bowl. I used a fake fish and some artificial seaweed made of soft, bendy plastic. The resin I used was Liquid Cast, which was a 1:1 ratio meant for deep pours. Like the resin you used for the non-faceted sphere, it heated up quickly and warped the seaweed, which also affected the placement of the goldfish. When it started heating up/warping, I went into a panic and proceeded to put in the seashells, hoping that would solve the problem. Though the piece didn’t turn out the way I intended, it still looked pretty nice and made for a cool lamp, so it wasn’t a total loss. I since discovered Amazing Deep Pour resin by Alumilite, which is a 2:1 ratio that produces clear, bubble-free castings even without a pressure pot or vacuum chamber. Though it takes much longer to set (1-2 days), Amazing Deep Pour is now my go-to resin, and I’ll never use Liquid Cast again. It’s a bummer I didn’t know about it before making my goldfish globe. Live and learn, or die and burn. 😊
I need to ask you a resin question. I use a good brand when I cure my projects and it’s the best one I found out there. But what I’m trying to ask is what does it mean when you make something with resin and part of the project cures and some of them don’t it’s like still go away and sticky. Does that mean I put the wrong mixture together or I didn’t pour enough in the mold. Because that type that doesn’t really measure my resin when I poured in my projects, I do like a little bit of this a little bit of that. If you can answer back when you get a free chance, that be great from a fellow Crafter’s.
Hi! I'm new at resin and started making bookmarks. I have run into a problem where after curing for 2 days, sometimes they are bendy. I have double checked all the possible issues: temperature, mixing ratio, ratio of colorant to epoxy and I cannot figure out why this happens!!!!! Ideas??
On the JDiction 1:1 resin would it stil do the same if you do it in layers rather than just pouring the whole lot in at once ?
You would see lines between each pour, I've done many times. Unless you can catch it when it's just about to cure to pour the next one
What happens if you use deep pour resin in molds inside the curing machine???
The deep pour was a lot more shiny
I'm just curious why you don't use the jdiction deep pour?
Teexpert is usually cheaper for deep pour and it is decent resin.
On that vein, one Teexpert product I DON’T recommend is the 4 hour cure. It doesn’t cure in anywhere near 4 hours and it pulled the color out of my foil flakes causing my project to be tinted with it. Never had that happen with any other resin. JDiction 4 hour is great!
@@meh_lady thank you so much for this information. I really appreciate it.
@@meh_ladyHave you ever used teexpert on a resin mat or inside a curing machine?
@@libbyannbest1723 Trying to remember, I have so many different resins! I have only used their regular resin from a free 8oz sample but it was a long time ago. Fast cure was for sure in a pressure pot with warming mat underneath it. Deep pour was at room temp as I don’t put heat to that since it kind of defeats the purpose. These are all referencing Teexpert products I’ve tried.
It can also be flat-out dangerous for resin to flash cure!
I want that mold that's crystal prisons
How to fix resin that didnt harden or projrcts that have sticky parts
I have 5-five resin from Italy, but I still get bubbles inside. A lot of small-small bubbles. I started to think it’s because of the high humidity 55%. Other masters use the same resin successfully.
Where are these resin forums?
❤
❤❤❤
What are you saying Steve, it's not the resin it's me? LOL
That's what I heard
How deep is deep?
The resin ain't the problem. *FINDING THE RIGHT RESIN* is the problem. Most resins don't have adequate demonstration videos to go with them. Or they don't post the technical data like viscosity or shore hardness. So it's lots of trial & error & wasted money. More failures than successes. Everything has to be perfect. The temperature of the resin, the temperature of the room, the moisture level of the room, the size of the mold you're trying to pour into etc. Believe me, I know! I've been at it for decades & I still can't find the perfect resins. I'm settling with "close enough".
And then you have the problem of shelf life. You need to use it as fast as possible before it goes bad. But if you don't have anything to do at the moment it will start crystalizing. I've bought resins & mold rubber from stores like Michaels & Hobby Lobby that were sitting there too long & were no good.
Nobody tells you this stuff. I had to learn it all the hard way. And it's almost impossible to find a RUclips video that addresses your specific needs. Every time I try to find a video about clear resins to use for tiny toy parts, all I can find are videos about huge wood turning or tabletop projects. If you want to get into this it has a very high frustration level & a steep learning curve. Lots of experimenting & lots of failures (depending on the type of project).
Don’t be like maybe it’s the problem with what you’re using it for, just say it’s a skill issue