Review & teardown Aneng AN870 from banggood.com compared with AN8008 and UNI-T 61E
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- Опубликовано: 20 апр 2018
- In todays video we take a look at the new Aneng AN870 multimeter. Thanks to Sandra from Banggood, they sended me this meter for free. Like the others meters from Aneng it is a cheap meter full of features.
- 19999 Counts
- Temperature
- Good specs
- True RMS or how they say Ture RMS
- backlight
- HRC fuses
In the video I compare it with the slightly more expansive UNI-T UT61E and my favourite little meter the Aneng AN8008. At the end of the video I explain why I can recommend all of them it just depends on the price what you are willing to pay. Just never forget don't use them with mains voltage.
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UNI-T UT61E
goo.gl/pQUcDq
ANENG AN870
goo.gl/cwV6gw
Aneng AN8008 9999 count multimeter
goo.gl/T1kF2G 
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You should definitely do a short summarising version of this same video.
i just received my an8008, really crazy how they can make auto ranging meters + shipping at $16 and they still make a profit.
and i actually compare the higher end aneng models with my vichy meter, i would say is more worth it getting vichy or other meters with the similar price range as in comparison even the high aneng models also uses chip on board aka blob.
Mhm so i'm looking for a multimeter. Here's my desired laundry list of features:
1. It should be cheap. I am a broke student.
2. In buzzer/continuity mode, it should not apply more than 1V to DUT. This is important because if you're probing a computer mainboard or a GPU, anything above 1.2V can kill sensitive circuits. Ideally i'd have continuity in resistance mode rather than in diode mode.
3. It should have a snappy, quick buzzer, and it can be fully unlatched, it's fine. So what if it crackles, i want to quickly determine connectivity between points on the PCB, or weed out stuff that definitely isn't connected or shorted to each other, and i want to know if something is peeking through in spite of flux contaminated PCB or surface oxide on solder joints, i can't always trust to get a decisive, lasting contact. I also like being acoustically told just how bad the contact is, i don't think multimeter should cover up filthy probes or bad probing.
4. It should go down vaguely into mOhm range. Measurement down to 0.1 Ohm is no longer good enough, less would be better for GPUs and other low impedance circuits.
5. It should use AA or AAA cells and be compatible with NiMH cells, and they should be easy to replace. 9V is such a hassle, even though you can get a NiMH 9V.
6. It should ideally have Bluetooth SPP profile connectivity.
7. It should ideally have a bar graph, and if one is present, it needs to have a high update rate. One update every 2 seconds is fine on a numeric readout, but anything less than 10Hz is completely pointless for a bar graph.
8. It should apply no less than 3.3V in diode mode, so that LED forward voltage can be tested.
Any thoughts in this general direction? I know my desires are contradictory, but i want to see how many can be satisfied. It would be disappointing to get a new device and then just stick to the 20 year old unit because it's actually better.
What it doesn't strictly have to do is be rated for high voltages or have blast protection. I also don't believe i necessarily want the auto ranging, though i guess i might get one of those and just see how much or how little i like it.
What i have is a hand-me-down old Mastech, which i trust to be HV-safe and blastproof, and it meets points 1 (because i just begged for it and got it for free), 2 and 3. I'm not necessarily fond of its 3-terminal configuration, meaning i have to be mindful of which way i wipe the range switch, but you should be mindful in any case also because of applied voltage. So for example it's only 0.6V in 200 Ohm but 2.6V in diode mode.
At time 41m, you mentioned none these 3 multimeters would be OK for 220~240VAC. So…
Which one, not as expensive as a Fluke one would you suggest?
I’m also a hobbyist, regarding the SAFETY for Household AC line, The Benchmark of multimeters or “22000 count” is just desirable, but not the paramount feature for the SAFETY (I believe we think similarly, not being for our professional need). Also, after some time (4 years), you may have other model suggestions too.
Thank you.
I had one of these in my shopping cart until I saw your teardown. I figured it would be a useful extra to add to my UT61E and Fluke 77iii. Going to get another UT61E now, just wish it had a backlight. Got the Aneng AN8008 after Mr Jones' review and it's great for the price and fits in a pocket, thought maybe their new bigger meter might be good too, really disappointing to see how little effort they have made. It really doesn't inspire confidence.
Im also a bit of a fanboy of the little 8008, I have one and just recently got the 8009 and even happier with it as well - has NCV in place of the square wave generator and also has temp and a couple other small differences. If ya like the 8008 youll love the 8009 as well. Good accuracy and features for the price, and they work great with a pair of the Probemaster leads as well-!
I still search for probdmaster in Germany for a reasonable price when I order it from US the sending is about 25-40€
Wow that really sucks, they are great leads but that still sounds way more than theyre supposed to sell for, but I dont know the german / US exchange rate either. Im puzzled why things are so expensive in germany / europe, I talk to a railroad guy in britain and he says the same thing. He sees many things he would like to order from ebay but by the time he pays all the british governments extra taxes and fees its almost never feasible. He says they have to pay a vat tax and even if something is sent for free they still have a stiff import fee. I know my country (US) is far from perfect and has many problems, but I do feel lucky I can get this stuff from china so amazingly cheap, I feel badly that youre not allowed to.
For example from banggood I can buy quiet cheap but they don't have probemaster. Looks like the Chinese sellers in ebay don't care about import taxes. But some things I want to buy they don't have. Also amtec Flux is not easy to buy here Louis Rossman send to Germany but also very expansive cost for sending.
Welectron has Probemaster leads and TME has AMTECH fluxes:
www.welectron.com/Probe-Master-Silicone-Test-Leads-Series-8000
www.welectron.com/Probe-Master-8152-Spring-Loaded-Micro-Tip-Test-Leads-48-120-cm_1
www.tme.eu/de/katalog/#id_category=100484&page=1¤cy=EUR&s_field=niski_prog&s_order=ASC&limit=50&visible_params=2%2C1625%2C1682%2C1677%2C849%2C909%2C1597%2C436%2C5%2C74&used_params=2%3A45306%3B
Very interesting review, comparing both models - emphasizing here the ANENG AN870.
Now I need to find your review and disassembly of the Uni-T UT61E.
A rare addition on the Uni-T is the USB interface, right?
I have compared the Aneng AN870 with a Siglent 3045X DMM (0.01% accuracy). I tested just DC voltage on a lead-acid battery (so a very simple test). The Siglent reported 12.226 V and the AN870 12.227 V. That was really a surprise, this cheap meter was really "spot on". However, AC, current, resistance or other DC-voltage ranges are not tested yet.
Yeah is really not bad for the price but I like the other Aneng more like the AN8008. It has something to do with the feel of the product. Still the AN8008 is my favorite little Meter I have now 4 of it.
You noted these are fine for non line voltage, which do you recommend for budget meters for 120 and 240 volts? Mostly checking for continuity for my house or 240v welder to measure amp outputs up to 300amps. Thanks for your detailed video!
Star Wars 😂😅😂. Let the Force be with You!
I like the bar graph on the UT61E.
But the Aneng has a nice BIG display and backlight.
I like them both but I think the UT61E wins my shopping list.
It’s really not easy I like them both each is good value for money.
UT61E is whorse then aneng ,just because the calibration is done via regulable resistors
its a good thing i can only hear things from my right ear :)LUL.... right ear is satisfied
i got a feeling aneng probably uses the same voltage reference chip for all their models.
Hi, is there any chance/way to modify the ROM, and so this AN870 will be able to produce the Square Wave Output? I can see the LCD display is ready with the Square Wave Output segment... If so, this AN870 will be the best replacement for AN8008 + AN8009.
I very like star war's ship you built ;) You have it for almost 2 years now, do you recommend AN870 or maybe you found something better for a similar price?
I still prefer the little Anengs and my Uni t
I'd like to see UNI-T release a meter that combines the best features of the UT61E (22000 count, bar graph) with the best features of the UT139C (good input protection, backlight, temperature function).
You forgot to mention the most important feature the UT139C has over the UT61E... The molded probe holders!!!
No, I'm not joking. As silly as it sounds, having probe holders molded in to the meter case or protective boot is one of my favorite meter features. :)
I have both the UT139C and the UT61E, and unless I need a stupid amount of precision in my readings, I'll grab the UT139C first every time. It just feels like a meter should feel. Also, while the UT61E at least doubles the capacitance reading range of the UT139C, it fails diode test with blue and white LED's while the UT139C does the job.
The backlite, eh, I hardly ever need it. Uni-T would definitely have a winner in my book if they used the UT139 form factor and build quality, added to it the precision, the bar graph, and the the data logging capabilities of the UT61E.
For now it seems we must maintain multiple meters to have all the features we want, which isn't all bad. Having multiple meters allows you to double check a reading that doesn't agree with you. :)
I didn't notice that the 61E doesn't have probe holders but I don't own one yet, just the 139C. I completely forgot about the data logging capability too. A backlit display comes in handy for me from time to time, usually under a vehicle or under the dash of a vehicle. I'd like to pick up a 61E for the bench and like you said, it's nice to have another meter to compare suspect readings. You know, the more I think about it, the way they're doing it makes sense from a business perspective. Why sell one meter with all the desirable features when you can split those features between two meters to encourage the purchase of both?
Don't get me wrong, the UT61E is a damn good meter for the price. If you need, or desire the added resolution, it's still my favorite meter for the bench for precision. When I compare it to my UT139C, which has been my "go to" meter for the past 4 years, it lacks some of the little things, and has one apparent oversight in diode test mode.
OK, complete disclosure here... I only bought the Aneng AN870 because it had the probe holders. No lie... I don't consider my UT61E portable simply because it's missing the probe holders. Realistically, of course it's portable. In fact, it actually feels a bit lighter in my hand, but that could be an effect of surface area to weight ratio, I've not had either meter on the scale. :) To me, a meter is portable because it's always ready to go. Having my leads wrapped nicely around the meter and probes properly stowed just fills a psychological need of mine, indicating a tool as a "grab and go" device. My UT61E sits on my bench and is used for pretty much any reading while I'm at the bench, or one of two meters I use at the bench if I need to measure voltage and current simultaneously. I bought the Aneng because it has near the resolution I've grown fond of by using the UT61E, and because it would be a "grab and go" ready device. Unfortunately, while it has all the features of the UT139C and much better resolution, it still feels like a turd in my hand. I try to make myself like it, but I'm just not there yet...
So really, given that the Aneng AN870 matches the UT139 feature for feature, but with much greater resolution, it should have displaced my UT139C, and it did not. Quality differences between the UT139C and the AN870 aside, I'm not the least bit concerned about the Aneng's complete lack of input protection. I don't care about input protection. I've still got the original glass fuses in the first digital multimeter I bought back in the 80's, a Micronta 22-185 from Radio Shack. I've found that if you simply set your meter for what you're reading before you start poking probes around, you'll never have a problem. A good rule of thumb is NOT to have your probes plugged in to the current shunt, or have your meter in continuity mode while trying to measure mains voltage... despite what seems to be a popular opinion these days, there was a time when a technician was expected to know what he was doing while working around electricity...
The Aneng just feels bad to me. The UT61E feels decent, but the UT139C feels great.
I'm with you about combining the best of's with the two Uni-T meters. In fact, if they used the UT139 as a base, and added the resolution, data-logging, and capacitance range, I'd be willing to pay $20.00 more than what the UT61E is going for. I'd sell off my UT61E and AN870 to offset the cost of the new meter.
You'll probably get the UT61E, and for the most part, you'll be pleased with it. But one day you'll be using it and think to yourself, that jackass with the probe holder fetish was right. My Uni-T 139C just feels better... :)
Steve
I think we're on the same page. Though I haven't owned it for long, I am really happy with the 139C. If I do pick up a 61E, it'll be used as a bench meter while the 139C will continue to fill the role of a general purpose meter which it seems extremely well suited to.
Steve Feldman
I agree with you on the quality and value of 139C. I paid AU$50 for it and IMO it's simply the best sub AU$100 general purpose multimeter and I'd recommend it to anyone who's getting a cheap meter. Of course if you compare it to something like Fluke 17B+ which I also own, the 139C is inferior in almost every single way, but it's also more than 3 times cheaper.
If you really dig the 139C and want to pick up another one for more simultaneous measurements or whatever, I suggest you pick up the 139E. I have both of these. The 139E has the same build quality and construction. It's the only meter in the 139 range that's advertised to be able to withstand 6000V transient voltage. It also has LPF and LoZ functions. For just AU$18 more than the 139C, the 139E is hard to pass up on, yeah that was why i got it.
I own the 61E too. It never leaves the bench. I'm so happy with the precision for such a low price.
I'm not a UNI-T fan, and I don't know how the f*** I ended up owning 3 UNI-T multimeters, 139C&E, 61E, but I'm extremely happy with every single one of them and what I use them for. The fact that they complement each other is great. That gives me the excuse to get all of them. Of course they can't be compared to a lot of the more expensive meters, but they're superb for the money I spent and I don't regret having them for a single second.
Good review and good class about burn voltage. Can you give an update feedback? What is better, AN870 or other? (below $100)
As mentioned in the Video I like my Uni-T 86E Special the German Version.
UniT is the best cheap multimeter.I still hope european or usa made ones will catch up.... they seam to like re branding and selling for an absurd amount of money,
I got my from Reichel in Germany and it has the proper fuse. But nothing beat the AN8008 this little beast is perfect for it's price.
About aneng an870, What is the voltage limit for frequency and duty cycle measurement?
It's not in the manual. But measuring frequency and duty cycle of the mains (230Vrms) is no problem (I have this meter and tested it).
@@MrTheNark, I want to measure a positive sign ranging from 0 to 12V, and the rising edge signal reaches a peak of 60V (due to solenoid closing). Can i use the AC scale even the signal is positive? if I use the key selector in the Hz% position, the 60V peak will damage the multimeter?
I really like ur videos u have too few subscribers for ur content. But i think if u could keep your videos short like 10mins u could do much better. Just a thought though.
I try to make shorter videos but I like to talk.
The content is good, just split the video on multiple pieces.
What are your thoughts on Brymen multimeters?
I don’t own one so I have no Idea.
Never understand what is so important in continuos mode and what I lose when speeker reaction is delay 0.1-0.2 sec
When you "beep" out a board you need a reliable reading and fast response, when it is not instant, it does't feel right.
I find amazing that anyone that checks multimeter reviews doesn't understands the vital importance of a fast reliable continuous mode.
Oscar E Morales P Long time ago I build my own continuity checker with opAmp and Beeper this was fast. :)
My choice are Aneng Q10 and UNI-T UT39E+. Both are build around normal traditional package ADC chip🙂Not a fan of compound-coated chip die-on-pcb design!!! Also, Aneng (Zoyi OEM) have a great Aneng 870 with 20000 counts, but with epoxy-coated chip-on-pcb, unfortunately(((
Just ordered q10 yesterday and today i found 870 and im not sure do i regret ordering q10.. 870 has way better acuracy spec and more digits which i would really like..
20Amp with 0.01R shunt = 4 Watts!
Use it quick. ;)
Hey,
Have you seen my email I sent you with the address?
of course the package will go out soon when I have some more time to prepare.
ts.electronics ok, thank you so much!
That back light really sucks! And I really don't know why they bother calling it a 19,999 count or the 8008 as a 9,999 count when they are forgetting the zero any way. The are 20,000 and 10,000 count, simple as that.
Even it is not a full 4 digit or 5 digit meter it is still better the usually things you can buy for this price. The UNI-T is the best compared with the other but it is also the most expansive one.
I have aneng 8001. Just a crap. If you accidentally measure 13.8 VDC (5A peak) and turn the knob to volts without changing the probs the 10A fuse blows+ clamp protection transistor + 1N4007 diode. The tracks of the switch are just copper with a very thin film of gold. NO NICKEL LAYER between copper and gold. ANENG AN870 is almost identical to AN8001.
I like the Aneng 800x lineup never have any problem with them of course when I play with big LiIon battery packs I kill from time to time a fuse but never any other componet.
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/another-cheapo-multimeter-19999-count-0-05-dc-accuracy/?all
here is thread about this meter on eevblog, worth reading!