Ironically I had this sitting around for the past year and only two weeks earlier did I finally installed the controller along with a titanium heater element on my tank. I am liking the unit although I am eyeing the Aqua Logic unit, which I had way back when I had ba chiller, as the next logical step if I ever swap this out.
I've had the heater/chiller Inkbird since day one. Great product, though I'm led to believe there are similar, and superior, controllers on the market. Either way, well worth the investment 👌👌
@@JakeDogg-RIP Yea the options are wifi and non wifi, and then heater only or heater + cooler. I reccommend the wifi option and the decision between heater vs heater+cooler is entirely based on your needs.
I've had 3 of these, two of them failed. The one on my nano right now is set to 27.5 and only just keeps temp above 24. One of them cooked a frag tank I had. I find the controllers in the aquael heaters to be really good and I'll be relying on them from now on.
Unfortunately the redundancy on overheating means you double the chance of the heating failing and it getting 2 cold, as well as giving you the false sense of a security from a non existent "safeguard".... If you rely on the heater to stop it getting too cold most of the time (or say a chiller in the tropics), putting this in without adding a second controller and second heater, makes your risk of a failure substantially greater (more than double) than any reduction of risk from overheating..... The controller is also a non-sealed mechanical relay which means it has a rather limited lifespan and is most likely to fail in the "ON" position in this use case due to the contact in the relay generally always being on/closed. So when the time actually comes to act as an overheating safety switch, the contact has been closed for years and so the relay's spring doesn't have enough force to break the connection due to the relay's contacts that are welded/corroded together......... Don't be fooled by what the tubers are being asked to sell.......
I think your over-complicating the risk factor. An over heating tank will kill everything in a matter of a few hours. A cold tank is not a catastrophic risk in a short time frame, and in many cases will not have a significant impact. I always advocate for redundancy hence why in my tank I use the temperature sensor on my kore7 as well with alerts and notifications for if the temperature goes outside of normal both hot and cold. This is in addition to the temperature controller that actually turns on and off the heaters.
Hi there, I was wondering what sizes tank I would need to qt 3 small tangs. How many litres does it have to be? I will be using the hybrid tank transfer method. I will qt a tomini, yellow and purple together all around 5 inches. I might even do the tomini and yellow and then purple separately.
@@ReefNerd okie thank you so much! Just one last question, that is about general cure. Can I dose general cure in the water during the tank transfer method? Or feed it to the fish? What is the difference between dosing in the water and feeding the fish? Which is better and why? Can you please tell me.
I am unfamiliar with that product. In general I am wary of anything that claims to be wide acting and suited for both fresh and salt. If you do use it. Use only as directed and I believe it’s instructions say to dose to the water. Not to the food.
Ironically I had this sitting around for the past year and only two weeks earlier did I finally installed the controller along with a titanium heater element on my tank.
I am liking the unit although I am eyeing the Aqua Logic unit, which I had way back when I had ba chiller, as the next logical step if I ever swap this out.
I've had the heater/chiller Inkbird since day one. Great product, though I'm led to believe there are similar, and superior, controllers on the market. Either way, well worth the investment 👌👌
I think I gets one of these, maybe one day get apex, but this do to start with 🥰🐶
For a discount on Inkbird Temperature Controllers
www.ebay.com.au/itm/225219111831
@@ReefNerd thank you 🙏 do u talk about the different types to choose from in the link, in the upcoming video?
@@JakeDogg-RIP Yea the options are wifi and non wifi, and then heater only or heater + cooler. I reccommend the wifi option and the decision between heater vs heater+cooler is entirely based on your needs.
@@ReefNerd oh cool, yeah I don’t need a cooler where I am, we’ll I shouldn’t, thank you, will probably get one from ur link 🥰🐶
I've had 3 of these, two of them failed. The one on my nano right now is set to 27.5 and only just keeps temp above 24. One of them cooked a frag tank I had. I find the controllers in the aquael heaters to be really good and I'll be relying on them from now on.
mechanical relays on a "safeguard" adds no safety.......
Unfortunately the redundancy on overheating means you double the chance of the heating failing and it getting 2 cold, as well as giving you the false sense of a security from a non existent "safeguard"....
If you rely on the heater to stop it getting too cold most of the time (or say a chiller in the tropics), putting this in without adding a second controller and second heater, makes your risk of a failure substantially greater (more than double) than any reduction of risk from overheating..... The controller is also a non-sealed mechanical relay which means it has a rather limited lifespan and is most likely to fail in the "ON" position in this use case due to the contact in the relay generally always being on/closed. So when the time actually comes to act as an overheating safety switch, the contact has been closed for years and so the relay's spring doesn't have enough force to break the connection due to the relay's contacts that are welded/corroded together.........
Don't be fooled by what the tubers are being asked to sell.......
I think your over-complicating the risk factor. An over heating tank will kill everything in a matter of a few hours. A cold tank is not a catastrophic risk in a short time frame, and in many cases will not have a significant impact. I always advocate for redundancy hence why in my tank I use the temperature sensor on my kore7 as well with alerts and notifications for if the temperature goes outside of normal both hot and cold. This is in addition to the temperature controller that actually turns on and off the heaters.
Hi there, I was wondering what sizes tank I would need to qt 3 small tangs. How many litres does it have to be? I will be using the hybrid tank transfer method. I will qt a tomini, yellow and purple together all around 5 inches. I might even do the tomini and yellow and then purple separately.
I would probably use at least 40-50L per tang. My suggestion would be to find a really large plastic storage tub and use that as QT tank
@@ReefNerd okie thank you so much! Just one last question, that is about general cure. Can I dose general cure in the water during the tank transfer method? Or feed it to the fish? What is the difference between dosing in the water and feeding the fish? Which is better and why? Can you please tell me.
I am unfamiliar with that product. In general I am wary of anything that claims to be wide acting and suited for both fresh and salt. If you do use it. Use only as directed and I believe it’s instructions say to dose to the water. Not to the food.
@@ReefNerd ok thank you so much!