Building DC Guitars - Episode 5 | Routing trussrod channels

Building DC Guitars - Episode 5 - In this episode I demonstrate how I route truss rod channels for dual action truss rods. I discuss truss rod length and how they work.
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[@scottadams1061]

You said the truss rod is about 9mm deep, therefore you routed the channel 9mm to match. But when you make adjustments on the truss rod in either direction, either the flat bar on top or the round rod below will tend to bow (flex). It seems to me you would have to route the channel deeper in the center to allow for this flex; otherwise you might risk splitting the neck ?? That is, the bottom of the channel would be an arc, deeper at the center to allow for expansion. I’ve watched several videos and no one has even mentioned this. What am I missing? I’m thinking of trying a build myself and would like to get it right the first time. Thanks. Great video

[@ADFinlayson]

Thanks for commenting, the truss rod is 9mm deep but the nut is wider than the rest of the rod, it also sticks out slightly lower than the shaft of the rod so I had to fettle out the area in the channel around the nut. It’s only slightly larger so it’s easier to do it with a chisel than get a larger bit out. Yes the bottom of the rod is round and the channel flat, but using a round 6mm router bit would really save so little material that it’s really not worth it. Hope that helps?

[@evanbarker5611]

I think you can flush fit two way truss rods.

[@BluesGuitarStudent]

The entire purpose of matching the truss rod size is to force the wood to move ie adjusting the neck.

[@spesh1974]

Do you mind answering a quick question? I have a Crimson PRS style template kit. The neck profile (minus the fretboard) at the nut end measures just shy of 15mm. Truss rod is 11mm at the nut adjustment end which would only leave me with 4mm of wood before carving the neck. This seems too risky as I wouldn't want to "say hello to Mr Truss Rod"!
Would you recommend I simply add a couple of mm to the neck thickness? What do you consider to be enough wood at the nut end before carving? Thanks!

[@ADFinlayson]

yeah that worries a lot of people when carving their first few necks. You could certainly add a couple of mm to the blank when you profile it and then carve it down to taste, something else you can do is reduce the height of the fretboard a little. If you have you fretboard 5mm instead of 6mm when when you carve your overall next down to final thickness, you have an extra 1mm under the truss rod nut. I tend not to use profile templates for the neck and just carve down to taste

[@spesh1974]

@@ADFinlayson Awesome, thanks! It's my first, so all a bit new and want to eliminate as many errors as possible. Hence why I must have watched your videos over and over again! Great work, thanks!

[@ADFinlayson]

@@spesh1974 You're welcome Rob, thanks for watching

[@jacob3641]

Where did you get the guide on your router ?

[@ADFinlayson]

Came with the router mate, some of the bigger plunge routers come with a 2 sided fence like thi. It works well but it does require your blank is perfectly square all round. It's also not necessary, the last few truss rod routes I've done has been with my little Makita trim router and it's one sided fence.

[@matrixmodulator]

What router bit are you using?

[@ADFinlayson]

It's a Trend 1/4" 2 flute straight bit. They're £17 at Screwfix