Nice safety video. Having worked around 400 & 1000 watt metal halide floods at construction sites, I'm well aware of the high heat they put off at close range. The amount of radiant heat in the spot beam of a 4,000W HMI is hard for me to comprehend, although I've never personally worked around an HMI, I'm aware they operate on a very similar principle to a metal halide lamp.
Great video for safety. 100 percent cotton, wool, and leather are the best natural products for no melt protection. You can also look for no-melt, and no-drip synthetics such as; Nomex nylon, 50/50 nylon-cotton blends, Kevlar, and modacrylic fibers. Look for flame resistant clothes. Most fabrics will burn, but you want to avoid fabrics that melt and stick to your skin. Stay away from polyester, and polyester blends! I for one, do not want to be like a plastic wrapped burrito from your local convenience store that has been stuck in a oven.
I forgot about Kevlar, all the rage 10 years back. I remember showing a gaffer a set of Kevlar gloves I had. I put my hand on top of his 10k for 20 seconds, and when I pulled my hand away it took the paint off the light.
I checked my setwear: hot hand gloves. And they are made out of: 57% leather 20% polyester 18% nylon 5% non textile components. That's really shocking that gloves that are specifically meant to handle hot lights are still made with synthetic materials that melt! 👀 What are your thoughts on this Andrew?
Most gloves are not heat resistant on the back of the hands, you most likely will never put the back of your hand through a hot beam, and very unlikely touch anything with the back of your hand. However I got my hand jammed in the front of a 12k doing a lens change about 22 years back and couldn't reach the kill switch. The back of my glove was smoldering by the time I realised I could open the front door and activate the mico switch to shut it down.
Great video. Much appreciated! How about rain gear? Do you have any recommendations for rain gear? I would assume just avoid getting too close to the light...just so I don't melt. Lol
What boom arm or boom/tripod would you recommend? I like to put up to 8kg on maximum extension of the boom arm. Im interested in a Avanger d650 boom arm or a stand\boom combo like kupo 546M / JUNIOR BOOM STAND. Is a bad I idea to get a low roller base. I dig low rollers. Also, do you have any experience with jinbie products?
I have two avenger D650. You will need lots of additional cornter weight and a good solid stand. But it's a solid product and won't flex into shot. Full extension I need at least one additional shot bag for an Aladdin 350, at that's only 3.5KG. The bulk of the weight is the boom itself. I haven't got any jinbe products, but the seem solid when I've taken a look. I don't use rollers with boom arms, too many idiots on set these days moving my gear without asking. So I use mac men (tennis balls on the feet) to enable me to slide them on studio floors.
It’s a myth Archimedes used mirrors to burn attacking Roman ships. He actually used a 4K in spot.
Thanks Andrew for the awesome info as usual.
Nice safety video. Having worked around 400 & 1000 watt metal halide floods at construction sites, I'm well aware of the high heat they put off at close range. The amount of radiant heat in the spot beam of a 4,000W HMI is hard for me to comprehend, although I've never personally worked around an HMI, I'm aware they operate on a very similar principle to a metal halide lamp.
Thanks for this Andrew. I will be much more careful and aware around lighting from now on.
Great video for safety. 100 percent cotton, wool, and leather are the best natural products for no melt protection. You can also look for no-melt, and no-drip synthetics such as; Nomex nylon, 50/50 nylon-cotton blends, Kevlar, and modacrylic fibers. Look for flame resistant clothes. Most fabrics will burn, but you want to avoid fabrics that melt and stick to your skin. Stay away from polyester, and polyester blends! I for one, do not want to be like a plastic wrapped burrito from your local convenience store that has been stuck in a oven.
I forgot about Kevlar, all the rage 10 years back.
I remember showing a gaffer a set of Kevlar gloves I had. I put my hand on top of his 10k for 20 seconds, and when I pulled my hand away it took the paint off the light.
its crazy how a 4k outputs that amount of heat
Yikes! Good advice! I always enjoy watching your gear reviews, but this is important stuff to know, too.
This is a life saver tip. Thank you for always educating sir.
Yeah my mate bought a brand new jacket and burnt it just like this the next day in front of a tungston fixture. Crazy heat. Thanks for the tip Andrew
Thanks for the demo!!!
Very valid points! Quite a few installation and production companies have synthetic uniforms.
I checked my setwear: hot hand gloves. And they are made out of:
57% leather
20% polyester
18% nylon
5% non textile components.
That's really shocking that gloves that are specifically meant to handle hot lights are still made with synthetic materials that melt! 👀
What are your thoughts on this Andrew?
Most gloves are not heat resistant on the back of the hands, you most likely will never put the back of your hand through a hot beam, and very unlikely touch anything with the back of your hand.
However I got my hand jammed in the front of a 12k doing a lens change about 22 years back and couldn't reach the kill switch. The back of my glove was smoldering by the time I realised I could open the front door and activate the mico switch to shut it down.
why would anyone dislike informative safety advice... there's at least one idiot out there somewhere though
Thanks Andrew!!
Important video! Thanks 😳
great tips mate like always!! :)
Holy flaming underwear Batman!! Those are some good tips fella. :)
Great video. Much appreciated!
How about rain gear? Do you have any recommendations for rain gear? I would assume just avoid getting too close to the light...just so I don't melt. Lol
I've had a few minor melts on wet weather gear, but, you have clothing underneath, so not necessary a problem.
What boom arm or boom/tripod would you recommend? I like to put up to 8kg on maximum extension of the boom arm. Im interested in a Avanger d650 boom arm or a stand\boom combo like kupo 546M / JUNIOR BOOM STAND. Is a bad I idea to get a low roller base. I dig low rollers. Also, do you have any experience with jinbie products?
I have two avenger D650. You will need lots of additional cornter weight and a good solid stand. But it's a solid product and won't flex into shot. Full extension I need at least one additional shot bag for an Aladdin 350, at that's only 3.5KG. The bulk of the weight is the boom itself.
I haven't got any jinbe products, but the seem solid when I've taken a look.
I don't use rollers with boom arms, too many idiots on set these days moving my gear without asking. So I use mac men (tennis balls on the feet) to enable me to slide them on studio floors.