strange placement on the high pressure port on the '05, on my '01 the high pressure port is on top not but 2 or 3 inches from the low pressure port, which suggests on the later model the high pressure was move to the unhandy place on your '05
Thanks for the help again lol. I was going to pay someone to evacuate it for me but that cost 170. AutoZone allows free rentals only requiring a deposit, so did it for free subtracting the 15 dollars I spent on R134A! Thanks again for that dash tear apart video and this one.
Absolutely every dollar you can save is a win. Great job on doing this repair yourself , you have saved yourself thousands of dollars , and the pay off is great to stay nice and cool the remainder of the summer. Thanks for the update and thanks again for the great feedback .
s33therfan So after 2 days of having it running I detect no leaks however I am noticing a problem with the circulation of air in the PT. I am noticing it is not circulating air and just grabbing the air from the outside. The climate control button that controls this is the red and black vacuum lines. Do you know the location of the cabin door on the have box that controls this? I’m planning on going in there and taping it to only circulate air but I don’t know where it is.
Yes that door is located over behind the glove box , you can possibly pull the fan motor and get in there to fasten it in place however I haven't attempted fixing the hvac doors without dash removal. It's possible that maybe the vacuum line may have come detached from the little metal canister there , or something may have broken on the mechanical part of the door . I would inspect it first , if it can easily be fixed you may be able to get it working again . And if all fails just hvac tape it shut . Hope this helps out thanks again
Yes that's the one there's a vacuum line over there that hooks to canister it's easy to miss , I've also had the ones coming through fire wall at heater hoses come disconnected up there , but either way sealing it shut works , I use recirculation year around . Great work and thanks again
+Baxrok2 thank you , I was glad to get some cold air blowing out of that thing again. An ac system can get to be alot of work in a hurry depending on where that leak is . Considering the extent of the work on it , I'd say I saved myself a little money doing it myself . Thanks again for watching
Hello friend, thanks for the video. Very informative and to the point. Quick question, not sure if you'll see this or not. What were your High and Low Pressure readings while you were doing this? The reason I ask is because I did the same thing to a 2008 Pt Cruiser and while pulling a vacuum and recharging to the proper levels, the high pressure reading was pumping all the way to 255 psi while the Low Pressure was going up to 45 psi. Is that normal for this car or do you know if I got another problem? The Air was coming out cold but not that as cold as it should. Thanks in advance for any help.
The readings sound about right they are approximate relative to the outside temperature. It's hard to pin point a problem area I know those orifice tube lines are issues , the condenser , possibly fan issue . These fans have high and low windings so high could go out and low still work. However if it isn't cooling driving hwy speeds that's not the case. But as long as the compressor isn't cycling rapidly readings seem fine . Of course depends on the outside temperature . I believe I figure on 35 to 40 ish on the low when I charge mine. Wish I could be more help and thank you for watching
@@s33therfan Thanks a bunch my man. You actually helped a lot. I found out the Cooling Fan is supposed to kick in automatically on low speed when the AC Compressor is activated. In this case, my car's fan wasn't. So, after diagnostics I found the cooling/radiator fan is only working at the high speed but the low speed is not engaging. So, I need a new fan assembly. 😅
Great job on diagnosing the problem . I had made a video on a similar issue not long ago if you want to check it out . ruclips.net/video/6uUJO5-eRck/видео.html Thanks for the great feedback and for watching .
Doing this to my 07 cruiser...was able to get the high side on without removing the grill etc thankfully...have the vac on it and high side is down to zero and the low side is sitting at 28.....is this the norm when the system is ready for the freon to be put in or do both sides have to read zero? For hours it's been on vacuum and the numbers remain the same...Any ideas would be great and appreciated
You are probably reading the 28 inches of hg which is below zero. This number increases as the vacuum is applied. 28 is great , and I would leave it on there a few hours or more to make sure there is no moisture . Hope this helps.
I have the same problem. I don't know why the put the fitting way down there, but it is a pane in the ass. I hope I can get mine going as well. I don't have the compressor to drain it. I just have the cans and the tubes with Gage that came with the kit. Hope all goes well. Thanks for showing.
With the store bought kit and can that comes with the hose you will only be attaching to the low port which is up top , you won't need to get to the one on the compressor. That being said the first thing you'll want to check if it's low , I believe some where around 45 psi depending on temp outside . I have a car now that it's charged to correct psi but has other issues . There's a lot of factors . If you have a slow leak you may be able to recharge it . This car of mine was leaking massively from the evaporator core buried within the dash . Another tip if it is completely empty I would consider getting the loan tool pump and gauges from auto zone if you have one nearby. The vacuum will help in 2 ways first it will create a good vacuum to take in the 134a secondly you can see if it's holding any vacuum to point towards major leaks . Sometimes the shrader valves themselves will leak when the other components are fine . Finding the leak will be key , I'd recommend a small can of dye as well . If you find the system has charge that will point to other problems , such as expansion valve clogged , condenser blockage , failing compressor etc. A lot of the ac component replacement isn't that complicated once you figure out exactly what the problem is and it's a ton of money you save fixing it yourself for sure on this ac stuff. Anyways best of luck on it and hope some of this information has been helpful and thank you for watching . Please like and subscribe if you haven already .
Isn't the low pressure line the BIG line, and the high pressure the SMALL line????? That is what it says on the cans that I bought. I am confused now. One site says hook the can to the LOW presser line ( which should be the BIG Line) and other sites show hooking up to the HIGH presser hose ( which should be the Small Line) What is the right way. I don't want the can to explode on me.
The low port is up on the smaller line . The high is on the pump , they put a high port on some models up top but they're useless . Don't let the line size confuse you it just has to do with placement of the port in relation to orifice tube valve . I would also note the fill line on the can will only fit the low port , the high side is slightly larger . Best of luck on it I know how aggravating this ac stuff is and it's too hot to go without it .
Hey I have problem with my pt cruiser the ac clutch isn’t engaging the system is fully charged but the clutch doesn’t seem to turn on i bypassed the relay with a paper clip and the clutch engaged and it started to blow cold again so I thought the relay may be bad but I put a new one in and still nothing. Any idea on what it can be ?
I do not know your year but theres usually a pressure switch on the dryer and the high is on the Ac compressor itself ( on the back ) In my experience it usually has to do with this high pressure connection , mostly the pressure switch gets brittle and the connector cannot keep the connection. First start by inspecting these wires and connectors to see if this may be the issue. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
s33therfan the year is a 2004 non turbo and yes I did checked that switch and the wires look good I also tried to bypass it with the paper clip and the compressor clutch still won’t turn on I do get 12 volts at the switch though I’m not sure if that may affect it or not
s33therfan no I haven’t I will give that a try. If the clutch comes on does that mean both switches are bad? And what if the compressor doesn’t come on what should I do next ?
@@tonyborja7883 no just that one of the pressure switches is bad . If either is not working it wont come on. If you jumped the one and it did not come on it should be the other switch faulty . Now its also possible theres some kind of wire issue if the pressure switches are ruled out but I wouldnt think so because you jumped the relay and it kicked on. Another possibility is the climate control itself not functioning.
They put the most vulnerable hose for breakdown, (the High Pressure A/C hose) in a place almost unattainable without dismantling almost half the front of the car. What a BAD conception design... Chrysler mechanic$$$ 1 Poor paying public 😞 0
Couldn't have said it better myself . I've heard of people getting to it without removing the front end components , but I can not see how . Even with the front parts of I remember scorching my arm a few times , you have to run the car to get the freon in it , so definitely a bad design . Thanks for the feedback and for watching .
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This would work really well for people with skinny arms without dismantling the front grille support. Thanks for sharing brother!
Thanks for watching
strange placement on the high pressure port on the '05, on my '01 the high pressure port is on top not but 2 or 3 inches from the low pressure port, which suggests on the later model the high pressure was move to the unhandy place on your '05
I agree the earlier design was great , they should have left it alone. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the help again lol. I was going to pay someone to evacuate it for me but that cost 170. AutoZone allows free rentals only requiring a deposit, so did it for free subtracting the 15 dollars I spent on R134A! Thanks again for that dash tear apart video and this one.
Absolutely every dollar you can save is a win. Great job on doing this repair yourself , you have saved yourself thousands of dollars , and the pay off is great to stay nice and cool the remainder of the summer. Thanks for the update and thanks again for the great feedback .
s33therfan So after 2 days of having it running I detect no leaks however I am noticing a problem with the circulation of air in the PT. I am noticing it is not circulating air and just grabbing the air from the outside. The climate control button that controls this is the red and black vacuum lines. Do you know the location of the cabin door on the have box that controls this? I’m planning on going in there and taping it to only circulate air but I don’t know where it is.
Yes that door is located over behind the glove box , you can possibly pull the fan motor and get in there to fasten it in place however I haven't attempted fixing the hvac doors without dash removal. It's possible that maybe the vacuum line may have come detached from the little metal canister there , or something may have broken on the mechanical part of the door . I would inspect it first , if it can easily be fixed you may be able to get it working again . And if all fails just hvac tape it shut . Hope this helps out thanks again
s33therfan Oh so that is the piece which separated from the HVAC box, the one above the fan. I will see what I can do, thanks for the help.
Yes that's the one there's a vacuum line over there that hooks to canister it's easy to miss , I've also had the ones coming through fire wall at heater hoses come disconnected up there , but either way sealing it shut works , I use recirculation year around . Great work and thanks again
Congrats on a job well done! Thanks for sharing!
+Baxrok2 thank you , I was glad to get some cold air blowing out of that thing again. An ac system can get to be alot of work in a hurry depending on where that leak is . Considering the extent of the work on it , I'd say I saved myself a little money doing it myself . Thanks again for watching
Hello friend, thanks for the video. Very informative and to the point. Quick question, not sure if you'll see this or not. What were your High and Low Pressure readings while you were doing this? The reason I ask is because I did the same thing to a 2008 Pt Cruiser and while pulling a vacuum and recharging to the proper levels, the high pressure reading was pumping all the way to 255 psi while the Low Pressure was going up to 45 psi. Is that normal for this car or do you know if I got another problem? The Air was coming out cold but not that as cold as it should. Thanks in advance for any help.
The readings sound about right they are approximate relative to the outside temperature. It's hard to pin point a problem area I know those orifice tube lines are issues , the condenser , possibly fan issue . These fans have high and low windings so high could go out and low still work. However if it isn't cooling driving hwy speeds that's not the case. But as long as the compressor isn't cycling rapidly readings seem fine . Of course depends on the outside temperature . I believe I figure on 35 to 40 ish on the low when I charge mine. Wish I could be more help and thank you for watching
@@s33therfan Thanks a bunch my man. You actually helped a lot. I found out the Cooling Fan is supposed to kick in automatically on low speed when the AC Compressor is activated. In this case, my car's fan wasn't. So, after diagnostics I found the cooling/radiator fan is only working at the high speed but the low speed is not engaging. So, I need a new fan assembly. 😅
Great job on diagnosing the problem . I had made a video on a similar issue not long ago if you want to check it out .
ruclips.net/video/6uUJO5-eRck/видео.html
Thanks for the great feedback and for watching .
Doing this to my 07 cruiser...was able to get the high side on without removing the grill etc thankfully...have the vac on it and high side is down to zero and the low side is sitting at 28.....is this the norm when the system is ready for the freon to be put in or do both sides have to read zero? For hours it's been on vacuum and the numbers remain the same...Any ideas would be great and appreciated
You are probably reading the 28 inches of hg which is below zero. This number increases as the vacuum is applied. 28 is great , and I would leave it on there a few hours or more to make sure there is no moisture . Hope this helps.
I have the same problem. I don't know why the put the fitting way down there, but it is a pane in the ass. I hope I can get mine going as well. I don't have the compressor to drain it. I just have the cans and the tubes with Gage that came with the kit. Hope all goes well. Thanks for showing.
With the store bought kit and can that comes with the hose you will only be attaching to the low port which is up top , you won't need to get to the one on the compressor. That being said the first thing you'll want to check if it's low , I believe some where around 45 psi depending on temp outside . I have a car now that it's charged to correct psi but has other issues . There's a lot of factors . If you have a slow leak you may be able to recharge it . This car of mine was leaking massively from the evaporator core buried within the dash . Another tip if it is completely empty I would consider getting the loan tool pump and gauges from auto zone if you have one nearby. The vacuum will help in 2 ways first it will create a good vacuum to take in the 134a secondly you can see if it's holding any vacuum to point towards major leaks . Sometimes the shrader valves themselves will leak when the other components are fine . Finding the leak will be key , I'd recommend a small can of dye as well . If you find the system has charge that will point to other problems , such as expansion valve clogged , condenser blockage , failing compressor etc. A lot of the ac component replacement isn't that complicated once you figure out exactly what the problem is and it's a ton of money you save fixing it yourself for sure on this ac stuff. Anyways best of luck on it and hope some of this information has been helpful and thank you for watching . Please like and subscribe if you haven already .
Thanks for your information. I think I will check the whole thing out today. Before the weather get hot again.
Isn't the low pressure line the BIG line, and the high pressure the SMALL line????? That is what it says on the cans that I bought.
I am confused now. One site says hook the can to the LOW presser line
( which should be the BIG Line) and other sites show hooking up to the HIGH presser hose ( which should be the Small Line) What is the right way. I don't want the can to explode on me.
The low port is up on the smaller line . The high is on the pump , they put a high port on some models up top but they're useless . Don't let the line size confuse you it just has to do with placement of the port in relation to orifice tube valve . I would also note the fill line on the can will only fit the low port , the high side is slightly larger . Best of luck on it I know how aggravating this ac stuff is and it's too hot to go without it .
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Hey I have problem with my pt cruiser the ac clutch isn’t engaging the system is fully charged but the clutch doesn’t seem to turn on i bypassed the relay with a paper clip and the clutch engaged and it started to blow cold again so I thought the relay may be bad but I put a new one in and still nothing. Any idea on what it can be ?
I do not know your year but theres usually a pressure switch on the dryer and the high is on the Ac compressor itself ( on the back ) In my experience it usually has to do with this high pressure connection , mostly the pressure switch gets brittle and the connector cannot keep the connection. First start by inspecting these wires and connectors to see if this may be the issue. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
s33therfan the year is a 2004 non turbo and yes I did checked that switch and the wires look good I also tried to bypass it with the paper clip and the compressor clutch still won’t turn on I do get 12 volts at the switch though I’m not sure if that may affect it or not
Did you try to jump both pressure switches already ?
s33therfan no I haven’t I will give that a try. If the clutch comes on does that mean both switches are bad? And what if the compressor doesn’t come on what should I do next ?
@@tonyborja7883 no just that one of the pressure switches is bad . If either is not working it wont come on. If you jumped the one and it did not come on it should be the other switch faulty . Now its also possible theres some kind of wire issue if the pressure switches are ruled out but I wouldnt think so because you jumped the relay and it kicked on. Another possibility is the climate control itself not functioning.
They put the most vulnerable hose for breakdown, (the High Pressure A/C hose) in a place almost unattainable without dismantling almost half the front of the car.
What a BAD conception design...
Chrysler mechanic$$$ 1
Poor paying public 😞 0
Couldn't have said it better myself . I've heard of people getting to it without removing the front end components , but I can not see how . Even with the front parts of I remember scorching my arm a few times , you have to run the car to get the freon in it , so definitely a bad design . Thanks for the feedback and for watching .