Here's one from my mother (who was an absolute wizard with a needle and thread!); ALWAYS stay stitch necklines and arm holes whether the pattern calls for it or not. Stitch from the shoulder to mid-neck, then from the other shoulder to mid-neck (same for arm holes). This method will cause the least amount of stretch to your garment and only takes a few minutes. This will also ensure that your facings will fit and not pucker.
I like to hand baste hems, tricky bits, etc. using thread colours that contrast with the fashion fabric prior to top stitching/sewing. Eliminates having to remove pins whilst sewing and easier to see thread when removing basting. I also attach waistbands, neckbands, etc. from the inside of the garment and then press and hand baste to the outside. I then top stitch or stitch in the ditch from the outside of the garment to secure the band. A much neater appearance with no worries of missing the band on the interior.
Enjoying your Advent calendar. My tip - when new fabric is 'acquired' I run the raw ends through the ovedlocker and then wash in the machine. Reason is two-fold - 1 it stops a lot of threads coming loose during the wash and 2 it shows immediately that the fabric has been laundered and is ready to cut and stitch! Merry Christmas!😀 Caroline R-G
I've been really enjoying your advent calendar. Thank you. When I saw your seam ripper it reminded me of something I learnt last year even though I've been sewing for a long time. Maybe everyone else knows about it. If you need to rip out a seam, break the threads and then turn the seam ripper so that the side with the ball tip is between the two pieces of fabric and just slip it along between the two. - Shirley
Loving this series. One tip that you could use which is a firm favourite of mine is, when gathering fabric, instead of using long stitches to gather, zig zag over dental floss. Another tip is, when making a toile that has a fastening at the back, sew up the back seam and leave the side seam open to pin yourself in x
I've got a couple of tips. First one might be obvious but was a game changer for me. Instead of completely re-threading your serger (overlocker), cut the threads of the upper and lower looper just before they go into your machine. Tie the new thread to this, and then serge on a scrap. This will pull the new thread through as you serge, and then you only need to thread the needles!
I've used a hole punch to make holes in my paper patterns where the little circle notation is (for extra stitching /popper placement is) then can use it like a stencil with a fabric pencil to mark it quite accurately. Saves making a mess with tailors tacks if you use the pattern a few times 😀
Good joke 😁. I’m working on a bag project at the moment with a massive number of interfaced pieces. What I have done is interfaced a large rectangle of fabric before cutting out the pieces and then I cut everything out already fused. Much less fiddly and quicker, too!
Iron the seam allowances to one side and then turn inside out instead of cutting the corner for a perfect corner or side in waistbands and collars. Use a pin to gently push the seam allowance of the sleeve when sewing a set in sleeve. Or,sewing it with sleeve fabric on the bottom, to take advantage of the slightly higher tension of the bottom fabric that the sewing machine gives 🙂
Here's a tip, when hand sewing with Gutermann thread, if you need to stop before the project is finished take your thread and gently pry the bumpy edge up opening the spool, place your threaded needle inside and slide the insert back down. This will keep your needle and thread together so you don't lose your needle!
Hi Helen! Here's a tip I learned last night. For those of us with older sewing machines, apply a bit of moisture from your finger to the back of the needle to help thread it. It involves magic, or electrons, or both.
A tip - to get lovely sharp corners to turn out on your projects; stop sewing 1-2 stitches before you need to turn the corner, lift up the pressure foot and turn your fabric diagonally across the corner, sew 1-2 stitches then lift you foot again to turn your fabric so that you can sew your next (side) seam.....also making the stitches just before the corner slightly smaller will give you a stronger corner. When you turn the corner out you should get a lovely crisp point 😀 (hope that makes sense?!)
I am not sure i have any hand sewing suggestions but I do suggest people keep their sewing scissors and shears in some kind of protected holder, sheath or box...
Dont know if this is helpful ,but if using a "glittery" thread that keeps snapping in your sewing machine, I hand wind the bobbin ( tedious ,I know) then flip your material so that the right side is facing down - the bobbin thread will then be on the right side of fabric ,AND , it doesn't snap!!! Great if your doing some form of embellishment or free motion quilting 😀😀😀
Here's one from my mother (who was an absolute wizard with a needle and thread!); ALWAYS stay stitch necklines and arm holes whether the pattern calls for it or not. Stitch from the shoulder to mid-neck, then from the other shoulder to mid-neck (same for arm holes). This method will cause the least amount of stretch to your garment and only takes a few minutes. This will also ensure that your facings will fit and not pucker.
I like to hand baste hems, tricky bits, etc. using thread colours that contrast with the fashion fabric prior to top stitching/sewing. Eliminates having to remove pins whilst sewing and easier to see thread when removing basting. I also attach waistbands, neckbands, etc. from the inside of the garment and then press and hand baste to the outside. I then top stitch or stitch in the ditch from the outside of the garment to secure the band. A much neater appearance with no worries of missing the band on the interior.
Enjoying your Advent calendar. My tip - when new fabric is 'acquired' I run the raw ends through the ovedlocker and then wash in the machine. Reason is two-fold - 1 it stops a lot of threads coming loose during the wash and 2 it shows immediately that the fabric has been laundered and is ready to cut and stitch! Merry Christmas!😀 Caroline R-G
I've been really enjoying your advent calendar. Thank you. When I saw your seam ripper it reminded me of something I learnt last year even though I've been sewing for a long time. Maybe everyone else knows about it. If you need to rip out a seam, break the threads and then turn the seam ripper so that the side with the ball tip is between the two pieces of fabric and just slip it along between the two. - Shirley
I did NOT know that! Great tip! Thank you!
Loving this series. One tip that you could use which is a firm favourite of mine is, when gathering fabric, instead of using long stitches to gather, zig zag over dental floss. Another tip is, when making a toile that has a fastening at the back, sew up the back seam and leave the side seam open to pin yourself in x
Both fab tips! Thanks!
I've got a couple of tips. First one might be obvious but was a game changer for me. Instead of completely re-threading your serger (overlocker), cut the threads of the upper and lower looper just before they go into your machine. Tie the new thread to this, and then serge on a scrap. This will pull the new thread through as you serge, and then you only need to thread the needles!
I've used a hole punch to make holes in my paper patterns where the little circle notation is (for extra stitching /popper placement is) then can use it like a stencil with a fabric pencil to mark it quite accurately. Saves making a mess with tailors tacks if you use the pattern a few times 😀
Good joke 😁. I’m working on a bag project at the moment with a massive number of interfaced pieces. What I have done is interfaced a large rectangle of fabric before cutting out the pieces and then I cut everything out already fused. Much less fiddly and quicker, too!
Iron the seam allowances to one side and then turn inside out instead of cutting the corner for a perfect corner or side in waistbands and collars.
Use a pin to gently push the seam allowance of the sleeve when sewing a set in sleeve.
Or,sewing it with sleeve fabric on the bottom, to take advantage of the slightly higher tension of the bottom fabric that the sewing machine gives 🙂
Here's a tip, when hand sewing with Gutermann thread, if you need to stop before the project is finished take your thread and gently pry the bumpy edge up opening the spool, place your threaded needle inside and slide the insert back down. This will keep your needle and thread together so you don't lose your needle!
Oooh love this!!! Thank you!
Hi Helen! Here's a tip I learned last night. For those of us with older sewing machines, apply a bit of moisture from your finger to the back of the needle to help thread it. It involves magic, or electrons, or both.
Ooooh!!! I’ll have to try that! That as a great one!
When top stitching a zipper first apply clear tape on the top for a guide.👍🏻
A tip - to get lovely sharp corners to turn out on your projects; stop sewing 1-2 stitches before you need to turn the corner, lift up the pressure foot and turn your fabric diagonally across the corner, sew 1-2 stitches then lift you foot again to turn your fabric so that you can sew your next (side) seam.....also making the stitches just before the corner slightly smaller will give you a stronger corner. When you turn the corner out you should get a lovely crisp point 😀 (hope that makes sense?!)
Ooh this is a great tip! Thanks!
💙💙💙
Hahaha loved the joke!
I am not sure i have any hand sewing suggestions but I do suggest people keep their sewing scissors and shears in some kind of protected holder, sheath or box...
Dont know if this is helpful ,but if using a "glittery" thread that keeps snapping in your sewing machine, I hand wind the bobbin ( tedious ,I know) then flip your material so that the right side is facing down - the bobbin thread will then be on the right side of fabric ,AND , it doesn't snap!!! Great if your doing some form of embellishment or free motion quilting 😀😀😀
Oooh that’s a fab tip! Thanks!
Joke is great!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 classic 🧶🍓🌈
😂🇦🇺
Brilliant joke,