Glad I found this. First thing I noticed when I pulled it out of the box. Is the suspension didn’t bottom out and it hit the chassis. Gonna be switching immediately. Got the high clearance aluminum knuckles as well.
So I just got mine yesterday and was having same issue. Moved links like you did and noticed caster was far out. All I did was move the lower link forward and it helped drastically. I'm new to RC-ing but not new to offroading. When ever making drastic changes to suspension it always has an effect on the other moving part. Its basic gee-hometry hahaha thanks for the tip.
Hi yes I was just showing in this video how it should be when set up like in the manual, along the way I made many changes to my gen 7 to make it work much better. I have many mod videos showing what I did. Thanks for watching.
I switched my links, the front uppers was hitting the driveshaft, I also used a couple of axial rod ends on the front of the upper links to pull the front axle back up some, it's a good rig with a few mods, great video man, Kevin
Great video Steve! This is great information that people who own one should know. You should add some specifics to your title to help them know - REDCAT GEN 7 WHAT THE HECK?? How to Properly Set Up Your Upper Links.
You know what I think? I think they did it on purpose so everyone would have something to fix and work on it for FUN! I've pulled mine apart twice so far and done almost most of the same stuff to make it a little better each time. IT IS AN RC also you wanted decent hobby grade RC's on the cheaper side of the 4x4 world but now we get to pull our 150 dollar rc toolset's out tweak them for Redcat make videos and teach each other's how you personalized your RC. Anyway thanks for your vid it actually helped me out. I will subscribe... Park'sRC
Kambam Cradic they flood the market with cheap 4x4 trail rigs just to sell licenced redcat parts at a mark-up price . Redcat has great customer service for a reason,
Yeah, seems like bad engineering to me. And it's a shame with the price these are being sold for too. I picked up the upgraded version of the Rockslide and think it's a great right btw. Just wish it had skid plates to protect the rods and axles.
To anyone who sees this. The truck preforms well in this set up, however do not cut your bumpers or trim any plastic. Simply look under the fender and the bumper retainer is adjustable so it all clears in different setups. 4 screws and no weakened components.
Even though this video has been on for awhile I agree that the instructions show exactly what he is saying. I did the adjustment in the video to my Gen 7 and it was horrible, I just thought that viewers should know that making the adjustment does not help anything. There must of been an issue with the illustration and error in the manual.
Good deal. I totally see what you were saying. The manual is completely wrong from out of the box. I've ran mine 3 times since I received it. First time out the motor quit working and the last time out the front axle shaft broke. Just cheap parts but a great platform to build off of.
Something is different I need to look into mine. I tested real quick after seeing your servo hitting plastic cross member mine come no wear close to it..I'll get back to see whats up.
Will do But I'm thinking they are sey up from factory the way yours originally was also. Just got done with doing the E10/ SCX10 chassis swap heading to bed lol. Talk to you tommorow.
I'm a little late on this vid and maybe someone figured it out, but I just got one 2 days ago. I moved the shock mount down and center both front and rear, flipped both bumper brackets up side down, moved the bumpers in as close as possible and raised the body posts 2 holes. Didn't notice the links, don't care. This thing is meant to set up how ever you like whether design flawed or not. Also used the thickest collars on front shocks, smaller on the rears. I will tell you, this thing moves. Another note, get the aluminum servo horn. First rock will thrash the plastic. Informative vid tho.
😊👍Thanks for watching I have a lot of videos on the gen 7 I have one showing how to lower the center of gravity kind of like what you said you done to yours, this trucks been good I probably put over 5 miles on mine and it's great!
That's cool man. I didn't lower mine tho, I raised it. It started out as the same height as my e10, now it's a touch higher. My next mod is a chassis mounted servo.
To be honest you just toss the manual an go with your gut. Got one Friday an had zero issues out the box did adjustments wanted no problem. It's a good base to start with. Redcat did a great job. Grabbed the Wendigo last month it's a blast not much on the crawling side out the box just drop a hobby wing axe system in it an it's golden on crawling.
Works much better with the pumpkin angled it don't snag on stuff as much and slips up and over objects now. and also redcat made them to long there is no way to place them to make the front not angled unless you A put them in the spot they had and leave it bind and hit the drive shaft B have to buy shorter links and I am doing mods on this and trying not to buy extra parts but work with what you get stock out of the box.
@@ShenRC I have a trx4 highly upgraded has aluminum axle housings brass portal covers on all corners brass c hubs with bearings aluminum sliders hyrax tires chanquish 1.9 aluminum beadlock wheels castle creations mamba x crawler combo with the slate 1406 2280kv motor running on a gt5 tx. Great truck. I also have a gen7 pro with no where near the mods and it has out crawled the trx4 bronco since day one mind ya its not stock either but out of the box the gen7 was a better crawler maybe it was the tires or the set up but the bronco just couldn't hang with it I have a few buddies that do comps and there all still to this day blown away by it. Sadly I was dumb and traded both those off one for a 6s team corally kronos xp the other for a slash 4x4 vxl and a 6s typhon wasn't but 3 4 months till I got another trx4 blazer this time and another gen7 lol point is the name means nothing its how its set up that matters
@@jebrc Hi that trx4 with all the 2 speed and all the extra servos and stuff is not the best of crawlers it's tippy I have the TRX4 sport that's the best crawler traxxas makes for real comp crawling the TRX 4 with all the extra junk in it is more for bashing around... I can see why the gen 7 pro could hang with it if it was moded up... my TRX 4 sport nothing runs as good that I have. Thanks for watching.
If you look at the front links, there was a very good reason why they relocated them. You didn't seem to notice how messed up your caster is on your front axle now....
Yes but at 5 mph your not going to be bothered by that maybe on a high speed RC you will notice the caster..but the stock set up your speaking of the drive shaft hits the upper links so that's not good..... I like mine it works better the front tilted a bit the axle don't snag as much on stuff and the drive shafts run more in a straight position so it runs smoother.... you can cut some of the top links off easy and make the pumpkin not as much tilted as much if you want to do a little mod to the upper links.
@@ShenRC Sucker must have been lock tighten in couldn't get it off. So I took the links out. I stripped a couple of threads in the plastic and I was being super careful. Plastic seems below par.
@@DENSUTUBE2008 Hi man, when you take out a grub screw in metal that you know loc tite was on you heat the grub screw up hot with a solder iron and it will make the loc tite weak and you can take the screws out easy. The plastics are kind of dry and hard if you strip a thread just put some CA super glue on a tooth pick or something and dab some around in the screw hole and put a small dab on the screws tip 1/4 of the screws threads and then slowly screw the screw in and you can bottom it out and then it will dry and stay put.
It don't matter on a slow crawler you will only notice this on high speed RC's , Obviously out of the box it's not working correctly because the front drive shaft hits the links and binds up the suspension from moving freely. it works much better this way. Thanks for watching.
Did this change the ride height of the body? Just curious if it changed the center of gravity. Did it shorten the wheel base any, esp in the front end. I wish the lower links could move inward towards each other (front to rear) on the skid plate to shorten the wheel base and get the wheels centered in the wheel well.
Hi I put it this way so the front wont get hung up as much on stuff and also put it this way because the front links hit the front drive shaft and stop your suspension from flexing, I did not notice any difference in the turning radius like this.It works much better now. Thanks for watching =)
Good-looking out Steve! I got my eye on this rig but I'm still shopping around. I wish you wound get a Barrage V2 kit so you could find out how to get the best out of it, as you do so well.
Hi the difference between this and the ecx is the ecx is a much smaller truck in size this is a bigger truck if your going to go over real rough bad terrain the bigger truck will be better for it. But most times I like the smaller rigs makes it more challenging. =)
Technically basic driveshaft geometry says the closest to inline as possible is the best. They could be parallel with a 100 mm height difference and that would make for nice 90 degree u joints. Unless the diff was 12 inches from the transmission.
so no problem with just leaving the suspension the way it is right? i really don"t want to do anything with the suspension geometry, in case i screw something up!
Good eyes brotherman!! Maybe this exact video should be brought to Redcats attention. Interesting how a couple of millimeters can make or break a rig. Has doing those mods helped with performance or altered weight distribution??thx for your time✌
Thanks, and yes i found it works better the stock way out of the box the front don't flex because the drive shaft hits the links... more gen 7 videos to come! =)
in your unboxing video you compressed the front suspension and it didnt hit the servo, the bumper mount hit the servo AFTER you tilted your front axle forward.
Yes I know , it hits when you put the links on as the manual shows...BUT the front upper links hit the drive shaft when you compress or flex the suspension with how it comes out of the box...why I switched mine because the suspension don't work properly on the front out of the box.
Exactly! A simple fix for them to supply these things with straight links just like the first gen SCX10 they were trying to mirror. I guess too expensive for them to deal with (lol). Redcat fired out that Gen7 way too fast and let the customers deal with the crap like the turning radius and no slipper... not good customer service.
I did a test run in the mountain I will have a video of it... for $199.99 its worth it you cant get anything like it for the price , It has it's few flaws and stuff but most of them are fixable.
Yea I was thinking that but I thought why would they make the front shaft hit the link when you twist the suspension then? and also the rear shaft compresses and hits stopping the suspension from fully compressing down? Thanks for watching =)
It's not totally uncommon for suspension to hit links with a lot of flex on crawlers. My Yeti did it from the factory and still does. Even with skinny Ti links...
Great job of catching that mistake! They need a bit more quality control. Still a nice rig, but those kind of mistakes should had been taken care of properly. 😉👍
Boo Redcat! Possibly the worst out-the-box setup I've ever seen. Not really an issue for someone of your experience, but if a newb got this truck = total failure. BTW, hope Stewart is well.
Not even close to bad out of the box, unless you own one you'll never know.. his set up is all wrong.. some china man fucked his shit up trying to get it done b4 quiting time n threw that shit together thats y urs is fucked i have had ZERO issues n same with the 200 other people i know who run this truck. Out of the box this is a great truck compaired to other more ecpensive ones
shortened my front upper links a bit in my upgrade videos it's better now. also on a truck that goes like 10 MPH the caster angle won't matter much you only notice this on faster RC vehicles.
And another thing..don't cut out the metal piece holding the receiver and esp. It doesn't weigh hardly anything and provides stiffness to the frame. Stop spreading false info. Especially to the new rcers.
Na taking that weight off the top and moving the esc and RX lower is well worth the lower center weight, it's plenty strong without that huge chunk of metal up top! sorry you feel this way but I am not spreading any false info at all most everybody knows but maybe a newbie A RC with the center of gravity with the wight as low as possible in the chassis works better.
That's strange guy's said that they are assembled differently from how the manual shows...also if you look at other youtube videos you can clearly see the links are not in the holes that they show like in the redcat manual also.
As I said earlier, mine is not at all like yours and it's all stock. Even my servo is frame mounted not axle mounted. No suspension binding at all. Yours is completely different from mine. I'm not knocking your video, I'm just wondering why mine is so different than yours. I bought the pro model. Maybe that's the difference.
Yeah you need to pull this video down the geometry is way wrong with it that way its steering towards the ground the steering under flex on front axle will trash it in the end
Hi I only put this video up to show how it would be if you set it up like redcats instructions..later on in my gen 7 videos if you follow my channel I moded mine to work much better. Thanks for watching...gen 7 video coming tomorrow you will see how mine is now.
Great Video Bro!! I have the Everest 10......Redcat will Continue to have a Bad Name,if they Keep putting Cars Out ;with Quality Control Issues! My Everest 10 Receiver was just hanging by a wire and Esc wasn't even taped down! Instruction Manual,was for Another Car Completely! No Excuse for these Issues! Redcat Needs to Step their Game Up!! They Want Our Hard Earned Cash,but Wont Put the time into Giving Us Our Money's Worth!
Thanks for the tip Steve, having problems with the plastic steering part C Hubs mainly so now having to replace them, any advice on what else to do? Check my video ruclips.net/video/AtPR-gvCXTA/видео.html
LOL! I do know I just set it up like on the box and in the redcat manual go look at your box and manual.... as others said there trucks some where set up like in the redcat manual and some not... so I just showed it ...my truck is moded and switched much different now and is working way better than any gen 7 out of the box! you need to see my last few gen 7 videos LOL the gen 7 is working leaps ahead of any stock gen 7!
yeah i,ve seen it thats y redcat didn,t set it up like in the book..cause they saw how screwed up the angles were on the front and rear end.. your servo is supposed to be strait up and down your truck is steering into the ground set up like that..
@@tsrcs1635 Making it twice as hard for that poor servo to turn lol I bet his front end actually lifts up when he steer's because the arm is angled into the ground I'm still scratching my head as to why anybody would think this looks right lmao, he's kinda a weirdo lol.
Yep...I though the same they should have just used straight links that would have moved them further away from the drive shaft... I fixed it all now anyway =) thanks bud for the support =)
Yea they look like they like using already made parts that they had for other RC's Like the axles I feel they should have made them with a smaller pumpkin like all the other rigs but they just used there old crawler axles. Thanks for watching.
Glad I found this. First thing I noticed when I pulled it out of the box. Is the suspension didn’t bottom out and it hit the chassis. Gonna be switching immediately. Got the high clearance aluminum knuckles as well.
Cool! I have newer videos I did a lot to my gen 7 and it runs real nice now. Thanks for watching.
I did this to the front links on mine and it made the inner axel links hit the battery tray at half compression think I'm gonna get new links
Well done, first person to give a proper look at instructions... good job man!
Thank you =)
So I just got mine yesterday and was having same issue. Moved links like you did and noticed caster was far out. All I did was move the lower link forward and it helped drastically. I'm new to RC-ing but not new to offroading. When ever making drastic changes to suspension it always has an effect on the other moving part. Its basic gee-hometry hahaha thanks for the tip.
Hi yes I was just showing in this video how it should be when set up like in the manual, along the way I made many changes to my gen 7 to make it work much better. I have many mod videos showing what I did. Thanks for watching.
I switched my links, the front uppers was hitting the driveshaft, I also used a couple of axial rod ends on the front of the upper links to pull the front axle back up some, it's a good rig with a few mods, great video man, Kevin
😁👍Cool make sure to check out my other Gen 7 videos I moded it without hardly buying nothing and now it's running like a champ!
I just did this with my new rig! Had to adjust the shock angles after but still good.
Great video Steve! This is great information that people who own one should know. You should add some specifics to your title to help them know - REDCAT GEN 7 WHAT THE HECK?? How to Properly Set Up Your Upper Links.
Thanks man, will do thanks for the tip =)
Sure thing. Just thought it might help more people find it. Good for you...going through the manual and noticing the difference
How do you keep frame rail from hitting steering linkage?
I think for the price of this crawler they could have avoided this kind of mistake. Thank you for sharing, nice video !!
Thanks, it's not top bad you just got to tune it and fix some little stuff on it.
You know what I think? I think they did it on purpose so everyone would have something to fix and work on it for FUN! I've pulled mine apart twice so far and done almost most of the same stuff to make it a little better each time. IT IS AN RC also you wanted decent hobby grade RC's on the cheaper side of the 4x4 world but now we get to pull our 150 dollar rc toolset's out tweak them for Redcat make videos and teach each other's how you personalized your RC. Anyway thanks for your vid it actually helped me out. I will subscribe... Park'sRC
Kambam Cradic they flood the market with cheap 4x4 trail rigs just to sell licenced redcat parts at a mark-up price . Redcat has great customer service for a reason,
Yeah, seems like bad engineering to me. And it's a shame with the price these are being sold for too.
I picked up the upgraded version of the Rockslide and think it's a great right btw. Just wish it had skid plates to protect the rods and axles.
To anyone who sees this. The truck preforms well in this set up, however do not cut your bumpers or trim any plastic. Simply look under the fender and the bumper retainer is adjustable so it all clears in different setups. 4 screws and no weakened components.
Wrong when you extend your bumpers you make it easy easier to break
Mine came out of the box with the rear links in the same place as his are now.
Even though this video has been on for awhile I agree that the instructions show exactly what he is saying. I did the adjustment in the video to my Gen 7 and it was horrible, I just thought that viewers should know that making the adjustment does not help anything. There must of been an issue with the illustration and error in the manual.
Hi thank you, I was just setting mine up to the manuals specs just to show it... Mine is now all tweaked and running awesome.
Good deal. I totally see what you were saying. The manual is completely wrong from out of the box. I've ran mine 3 times since I received it. First time out the motor quit working and the last time out the front axle shaft broke. Just cheap parts but a great platform to build off of.
check the sockets controlling the battery and the brake. those where also set up wrong.
WORKS GREAT MY DRIVE SHAFT DONT CRANK NO MORE DONT LISTEN TO ALL EM NEGATIVE PEOPLE DOWN THERE
Thanks. 👍
Something is different I need to look into mine. I tested real quick after seeing your servo hitting plastic cross member mine come no wear close to it..I'll get back to see whats up.
full compression too.
Hi make sure to look at page 20 of your instruction booklet, notice the front top links location in the booklet.
Will do But I'm thinking they are sey up from factory the way yours originally was also. Just got done with doing the E10/ SCX10 chassis swap heading to bed lol. Talk to you tommorow.
Looks good REDCAT GEN 7
Nice video~
Thanks for watching.
I'm a little late on this vid and maybe someone figured it out, but I just got one 2 days ago. I moved the shock mount down and center both front and rear, flipped both bumper brackets up side down, moved the bumpers in as close as possible and raised the body posts 2 holes. Didn't notice the links, don't care. This thing is meant to set up how ever you like whether design flawed or not. Also used the thickest collars on front shocks, smaller on the rears. I will tell you, this thing moves. Another note, get the aluminum servo horn. First rock will thrash the plastic. Informative vid tho.
😊👍Thanks for watching I have a lot of videos on the gen 7 I have one showing how to lower the center of gravity kind of like what you said you done to yours, this trucks been good I probably put over 5 miles on mine and it's great!
That's cool man. I didn't lower mine tho, I raised it. It started out as the same height as my e10, now it's a touch higher. My next mod is a chassis mounted servo.
To be honest you just toss the manual an go with your gut. Got one Friday an had zero issues out the box did adjustments wanted no problem. It's a good base to start with. Redcat did a great job. Grabbed the Wendigo last month it's a blast not much on the crawling side out the box just drop a hobby wing axe system in it an it's golden on crawling.
Are you serious? lol the chassis has adjustable link positioning...your front axle is clocked way too far forward you are steering into the ground...
Works much better with the pumpkin angled it don't snag on stuff as much and slips up and over objects now. and also redcat made them to long there is no way to place them to make the front not angled unless you A put them in the spot they had and leave it bind and hit the drive shaft B have to buy shorter links and I am doing mods on this and trying not to buy extra parts but work with what you get stock out of the box.
You caster is fucked now
Nah you have made it all wrong
Shen RC your wrong my axle is str8 not like yours is.. your wrong.
Shen RC i didn't have to modify my bumper, or nothing. Your wrong SOOOOO WRONG.... YOUR LINKS ARE ALL WRONG THAT'S Y U HAVE ISSUES
Im very glad all my rc's have TRAXXAS on them! I almost bought this truck and at the last second decided on the TRX-4.
Hi it is no TRX4 but it's a nice rig..check out my other Gen7 videos it's pretty good after a bit of tweaking and modding.
@@ShenRC I have a trx4 highly upgraded has aluminum axle housings brass portal covers on all corners brass c hubs with bearings aluminum sliders hyrax tires chanquish 1.9 aluminum beadlock wheels castle creations mamba x crawler combo with the slate 1406 2280kv motor running on a gt5 tx. Great truck. I also have a gen7 pro with no where near the mods and it has out crawled the trx4 bronco since day one mind ya its not stock either but out of the box the gen7 was a better crawler maybe it was the tires or the set up but the bronco just couldn't hang with it I have a few buddies that do comps and there all still to this day blown away by it. Sadly I was dumb and traded both those off one for a 6s team corally kronos xp the other for a slash 4x4 vxl and a 6s typhon wasn't but 3 4 months till I got another trx4 blazer this time and another gen7 lol point is the name means nothing its how its set up that matters
@@jebrc Hi that trx4 with all the 2 speed and all the extra servos and stuff is not the best of crawlers it's tippy I have the TRX4 sport that's the best crawler traxxas makes for real comp crawling the TRX 4 with all the extra junk in it is more for bashing around... I can see why the gen 7 pro could hang with it if it was moded up... my TRX 4 sport nothing runs as good that I have. Thanks for watching.
If you look at the front links, there was a very good reason why they relocated them. You didn't seem to notice how messed up your caster is on your front axle now....
Yes but at 5 mph your not going to be bothered by that maybe on a high speed RC you will notice the caster..but the stock set up your speaking of the drive shaft hits the upper links so that's not good..... I like mine it works better the front tilted a bit the axle don't snag as much on stuff and the drive shafts run more in a straight position so it runs smoother.... you can cut some of the top links off easy and make the pumpkin not as much tilted as much if you want to do a little mod to the upper links.
That much negative caster and you're increasing steering radius
What the easiest way to get the rear shaft out to cut shorter?
Hi probably take the drive shaft off the rear pumpkin pinion gear shaft by unloosening the grub screw on the U joint.
@@ShenRC Sucker must have been lock tighten in couldn't get it off. So I took the links out. I stripped a couple of threads in the plastic and I was being super careful. Plastic seems below par.
@@DENSUTUBE2008 Hi man, when you take out a grub screw in metal that you know loc tite was on you heat the grub screw up hot with a solder iron and it will make the loc tite weak and you can take the screws out easy. The plastics are kind of dry and hard if you strip a thread just put some CA super glue on a tooth pick or something and dab some around in the screw hole and put a small dab on the screws tip 1/4 of the screws threads and then slowly screw the screw in and you can bottom it out and then it will dry and stay put.
what about he front caster being super negative ?
It don't matter on a slow crawler you will only notice this on high speed RC's , Obviously out of the box it's not working correctly because the front drive shaft hits the links and binds up the suspension from moving freely.
it works much better this way.
Thanks for watching.
Did this change the ride height of the body? Just curious if it changed the center of gravity. Did it shorten the wheel base any, esp in the front end. I wish the lower links could move inward towards each other (front to rear) on the skid plate to shorten the wheel base and get the wheels centered in the wheel well.
Hi I don't think so you would need to shorten the links to change the WB and it did not change ride height.
How come that servo is down so much? Is the axle clocked down that is robbing your turning angles
Hi I put it this way so the front wont get hung up as much on stuff and also put it this way because the front links hit the front drive shaft and stop your suspension from flexing, I did not notice any difference in the turning radius like this.It works much better now. Thanks for watching =)
I'm looking at this how are the axles and transmission holding up so far? I would like to comp mine out have an scx10 would like to try this one out.
Did you notice the motor was right above/against the nut for the bolt. I just saw that was I was trying to fix these issues
yea that's how it is.
Shen RC why would they have it right against it like that. Like really?
that's redcat for ya.
I know for sure there all diff then because mine was perfectly set up but I did fix the steering issue and there's many ways you can do that. Thx bud
Yea I was just showing how the truck would be set up as the manual shows. They do all come different that's for sure. Thanks
@@ShenRC 👍👍✌️
Good-looking out Steve! I got my eye on this rig but I'm still shopping around. I wish you wound get a Barrage V2 kit so you could find out how to get the best out of it, as you do so well.
Hi the difference between this and the ecx is the ecx is a much smaller truck in size this is a bigger truck if your going to go over real rough bad terrain the bigger truck will be better for it. But most times I like the smaller rigs makes it more challenging. =)
Basic driveshaft geometry is the trans/transfer case and the axle should be parallel to each other for the lowest strain on the drivetrain
Technically basic driveshaft geometry says the closest to inline as possible is the best. They could be parallel with a 100 mm height difference and that would make for nice 90 degree u joints. Unless the diff was 12 inches from the transmission.
so no problem with just leaving the suspension the way it is right? i really don"t want to do anything with the suspension geometry, in case i screw something up!
Hi this is so old if you purchased one years ago they already made changes to it all over so your ok. Thanks for watching.
Nice explanation Steve
Thank you =)
Good eyes brotherman!! Maybe this exact video should be brought to Redcats attention. Interesting how a couple of millimeters can make or break a rig. Has doing those mods helped with performance or altered weight distribution??thx for your time✌
Thanks, and yes i found it works better the stock way out of the box the front don't flex because the drive shaft hits the links... more gen 7 videos to come! =)
I just got this rc car but its marketing this clicking sound anyone know how to fix it
You should countersink your transmission screw underneath
😁👍
Nice video
😁 Thanks
Mine came appropriately set up. Maybe you got one who was a new assembler.
in your unboxing video you compressed the front suspension and it didnt hit the servo, the bumper mount hit the servo AFTER you tilted your front axle forward.
Yes I know , it hits when you put the links on as the manual shows...BUT the front upper links hit the drive shaft when you compress or flex the suspension with how it comes out of the box...why I switched mine because the suspension don't work properly on the front out of the box.
Good looking out great tips
Thank you.
A bit of a problem child, but why did they not make the top links straighter as the curves look like they are not required.
Exactly! A simple fix for them to supply these things with straight links just like the first gen SCX10 they were trying to mirror. I guess too expensive for them to deal with (lol). Redcat fired out that Gen7 way too fast and let the customers deal with the crap like the turning radius and no slipper... not good customer service.
Great job Steve man
Thanks bud!
shenlonco very welcome
Hi, bro, i do some mod as u do, bumber, shock the height slightly lower anyway looks better,^^
Yes, check out my other gen7 videos I have lots of mods that make this truck work much better. 👍
@@ShenRC sure, i saw most of the video, nice, thanks bro
Big thumbs up brother 👏 👏 👏 👏
Thank you man!
Thank you!😊
Good find!
How do you like the truck other than that?
I did a test run in the mountain I will have a video of it... for $199.99 its worth it you cant get anything like it for the price , It has it's few flaws and stuff but most of them are fixable.
I just got mine, the pro model. Excited about it, these videos are very helpful thanks guys.
You definitely need to take care of the velocity of the shafts otherwise it won't run smooth.
Yep in stock form the angles are to sharp and will cause more friction and wear. Thanks for watching =)
Good video 😉😉👍👍
Thanks for watching. =)
Hi Steve, great tips and tricks advice. I haven't heard that before.
😀 👍 👍 👍
Thanks =)
good vid mate
Thanks =)
Maybe the vehicle is correct and the Chinese translated manual is incorrect?
Either way, your shit is custom now. That is part of the fun!
Yea I was thinking that but I thought why would they make the front shaft hit the link when you twist the suspension then? and also the rear shaft compresses and hits stopping the suspension from fully compressing down?
Thanks for watching =)
It's not totally uncommon for suspension to hit links with a lot of flex on crawlers. My Yeti did it from the factory and still does. Even with skinny Ti links...
I always thought RTR meant Ready to Run, not READY TO REPAIR !
LOL! =)
Weird! Difference between stock and manual :-) Never seen something like that before.
=) ever own a redcat before LOL! =)
Good to know info thanks
Thanks and thanks for watching.
Great job of catching that mistake! They need a bit more quality control. Still a nice rig, but those kind of mistakes should had been taken care of properly. 😉👍
Just bought one today and my links are in the position you say yours was. Its the pro version i have.
😉👍 Hi yea some guy's say they are and some they say are not...guess it's a redcat thing!
Your servo should not be pointing down like that! Your going to half life your servo or hurting your axles
Boo Redcat! Possibly the worst out-the-box setup I've ever seen. Not really an issue for someone of your experience, but if a newb got this truck = total failure.
BTW, hope Stewart is well.
Thanks and yes I don't know why they did this.. Thanks for watching and Stewart's doing fine =)
Not even close to bad out of the box, unless you own one you'll never know.. his set up is all wrong.. some china man fucked his shit up trying to get it done b4 quiting time n threw that shit together thats y urs is fucked i have had ZERO issues n same with the 200 other people i know who run this truck. Out of the box this is a great truck compaired to other more ecpensive ones
Dont see these issues with the pro.
Hi this was the first batch a long time ago when they first came out they fixed all the problems with these gen 7's now. Thanks for watching
Ha your worried about the servo look at the caster angle. Like 20 degrees positive 😝
shortened my front upper links a bit in my upgrade videos it's better now. also on a truck that goes like 10 MPH the caster angle won't matter much you only notice this on faster RC vehicles.
Man they didnt do a hack job on this truck. Mine was built the way it was supposed too be. Redcat did an awesome job for the money they are charging
And another thing..don't cut out the metal piece holding the receiver and esp. It doesn't weigh hardly anything and provides stiffness to the frame. Stop spreading false info. Especially to the new rcers.
Na taking that weight off the top and moving the esc and RX lower is well worth the lower center weight, it's plenty strong without that huge chunk of metal up top! sorry you feel this way but I am not spreading any false info at all most everybody knows but maybe a newbie A RC with the center of gravity with the wight as low as possible in the chassis works better.
I'm new to rc, but alot of these guys just destroy there trucks..they have no clue of how to modify or fab anything lol
Hi yes I like working with what the truck came with and making it work better with it's stock parts most all the time., Thanks for stopping by.😊👍👍
nice :)
Thanks.
Maybe the drawings are wrong not the assembly.
Im a redcat dealer and have sold several of these. none of them have been assembled in the way your claiming.
That's strange guy's said that they are assembled differently from how the manual shows...also if you look at other youtube videos you can clearly see the links are not in the holes that they show like in the redcat manual also.
As I said earlier, mine is not at all like yours and it's all stock. Even my servo is frame mounted not axle mounted. No suspension binding at all. Yours is completely different from mine. I'm not knocking your video, I'm just wondering why mine is so different than yours. I bought the pro model. Maybe that's the difference.
Hi the Gen7 does not have a frame mounted servo?
Debbi Asmus I have no problems like he does. Its a very very good truck out of the box. Only problem really is the turning radius
Yeah you need to pull this video down the geometry is way wrong with it that way its steering towards the ground the steering under flex on front axle will trash it in the end
Hi I only put this video up to show how it would be if you set it up like redcats instructions..later on in my gen 7 videos if you follow my channel I moded mine to work much better. Thanks for watching...gen 7 video coming tomorrow you will see how mine is now.
Great Video Bro!! I have the Everest 10......Redcat will Continue to have a Bad Name,if they Keep putting Cars Out ;with Quality Control Issues! My Everest 10 Receiver was just hanging by a wire and Esc wasn't even taped down! Instruction Manual,was for Another Car Completely! No Excuse for these Issues! Redcat Needs to Step their Game Up!! They Want Our Hard Earned Cash,but Wont Put the time into Giving Us Our Money's Worth!
Do not do this. I sure wish I hadn't!
Thanks for the tip Steve, having problems with the plastic steering part C Hubs mainly so now having to replace them, any advice on what else to do? Check my video ruclips.net/video/AtPR-gvCXTA/видео.html
looks like you may have to go aluminum.
U probably shouldn't make videos untill u know what your talking about...
LOL! I do know I just set it up like on the box and in the redcat manual go look at your box and manual.... as others said there trucks some where set up like in the redcat manual and some not... so I just showed it ...my truck is moded and switched much different now and is working way better than any gen 7 out of the box! you need to see my last few gen 7 videos LOL the gen 7 is working leaps ahead of any stock gen 7!
yeah i,ve seen it thats y redcat didn,t set it up like in the book..cause they saw how screwed up the angles were on the front and rear end.. your servo is supposed to be strait up and down your truck is steering into the ground set up like that..
@@tsrcs1635 Making it twice as hard for that poor servo to turn lol I bet his front end actually lifts up when he steer's because the arm is angled into the ground I'm still scratching my head as to why anybody would think this looks right lmao, he's kinda a weirdo lol.
Agreed that servo or axle is gonna be destroyed with it steering into the ground
A bit of a problem child, but why did they not make the top links straighter as the curves look like they are not required.
Yep...I though the same they should have just used straight links that would have moved them further away from the drive shaft... I fixed it all now anyway =) thanks bud for the support =)
Yea they look like they like using already made parts that they had for other RC's Like the axles I feel they should have made them with a smaller pumpkin like all the other rigs but they just used there old crawler axles. Thanks for watching.
The axles and links are from the Everest 10. I know cause I have one and all wheel steering is possible on these just borrow the parts for the Everest
One word can sum up the reasons why those links have that kink
Clearance