Writing from Iowa. I love all these cabin building videos. I think I missed my calling when I was young. I follow 6 or 7 different channels. They are all very informative and entertaining. Your sister is a hard worker. I surprised some young buck hasn't tried to take her away from you.
Hi Ron - She is a hard worker for sure. We both grew up doing this sort of stuff. She helps out some with the work and the channel but she also has a regular job and family of her own too. Thanks for the comment and for following along. I have never been to Iowa - hopefully one day!
The reason for the angles is so that with age the corners get tighter. You definitely do not need to use any fasteners on the corner. I rebuilt and hundred year old dovetailed log cabin in eastern Ontario and you could not get a dime in between the joints on almost all corners.
I debated the fasteners - You are right, I think it would have been fine without them. I love the old dovetail cabins! Mine was inspired by ones I saw in the Czech Republic.
This is my sister - she helps too with the cabin sometimes! We both grew up in the Canadian countryside so have put in our time working in the woods over the years :)
Thanks :) I made the jigs with the help of a woodworker friend. They were tedious. We made them before we started the channel, but I might be able to do a video of making them at some point after the cabin is finished!
About 21 years ago I went to Georgian bay to see a log home builder Pioneer Log. My biggest home regret not doing everything I could at the time to get one of their homes. Similar but 8X20 full length logs up to 40 feet. Adzed both sides. They offered a 2X16+ live edge siding and they used the chinking method also.
Thanks for sharing that Paul.. I am from New Brunswick and have never been to Georgian Bay. I gather you like the chinking look too for a cabin? 40 foot logs would be a challenge to work with but would make an amazing cabin or home.
By design, the weight of the cabin logs, roof etc force the joints in the corners tighter. Screws in the joints will prevent them from tightening. As the logs dry they will shrink and you will get gaps in the corners because the screws will not allow them to tighten. I built one like this 25 years ago and did not anchor the corners. In turn they are tighter now in the joints than they were when built. Cabin is looking awesome but I would be curious as to how your corner joints fit in 10 years. Incidentally, these are half dovetail joints, not dovetails.
Did you leave the gaps between logs or make them flush? Was thinking I would cut a grove down the center of the logs length. use a 2x4 like a big biscuit to seal in between the logs
@@bamadave1983 This type of joint gets its strength by bearing the weight only on the corners. Any point of contact between two logs at a location other than the corner weakens the corner joint. That is why there is a minimum 2 inch gap between the logs.
Rocky is dead on right. The screws will inhibit the joints from becoming tighter with time. It is amazing the amount of movement that occurs with the logs swelling and shrinking during the normal seasons. He is also correct on the chinking be flexible and not ridge for the same reason.
It looks like an incredibly strong way of locking the corners together. If a bomb went off in the cabin the screws would help, but I think the dovetails force the logs together (inwards).
Hi Ron - where are you writing from? Great question. There are several ways to build a cabin and you are right that one option would be to have the logs fit tight. I plan to do a video about this, but basically by leaving the gaps there a few benefits. These would include allowing space for the lumber to expand, twist, and move a bit without affecting the structure. I think historically it may have also been done to use less lumber. For me I like the look of a chinked cabin (with the gaps). Great question and I plan to soon do a video on the pros and cons of the two options. I'll give a more detailed answer in a future video. Thanks for commenting :)
feel like you could've done a lot more research did you rush starting the build? all respect i'm honestly curious, i've been planning my cabin for 10 years and i still don't know what the hell i'm going to do
Just found and subbed to your channel. I also have a HM 126 (which I love) and am milling up lumber and logs for my cabin. Am leaning toward dovetail so will be watching to pick up any advice... Nice filming and editing!! Tim in Wisconsin
Hi Tim - Thanks for the note. It's a lot of fun so far (and a lot of work). I really like the dovetail look so decided to go with that. I'll be interested to hear how your project comes along. Thanks again
Thanks Brian! Interesting information. I have seen this style a few places and honestly I just like the look. I get a lot of questions about the as I think it is not the most popular stlye but neat to know there are some in Minnesota.
If you check out the newer build videos, you can see that most of the bark has been removed. You are right, the bark is a portal for insects to get into the wood!
Weight of the logs approximation: 6"*10"*120" *62.4[pounds/cubic foot]/(12*12*12)=260 pounds or 130 on each end Assuming they have the density of water. How deep would they float in water. If they'd float 50% under water and 50% above water, the density would be 62.4* 50%/100% or 31.2 pounds per cubic foot, and the logs would weigh 260*50% or 130 pounds total. drier lighter, wetter heavier. Or take a sample cubic inch and weigh it.
Very interesting! That feels about right. I could move one end on my own, but the whole log would be pretty unlikely. I was planning to take a small piece of it and weight it at sometime. I have some end pieces that I cut off. Could weight a few and get an average weight and multiply to get the length of the entire log. You clearly have some experience in this sort of work or with log construction? Very neat. Thanks - I appreciate you sharing that and also how you did the calculation.
But unfortunatly, here in india wood is a costly medium of construction. We only use wood for windows and doors.. nowadays even these usage of wood is becoming expensive and unaffordable aswell
Wood here is also becoming more and more expensive this year. I have heard this has been a problem in India for quite some time. I would love to see your country one day.
Yes one more question. There are many different chinking mixtures/ compounds/ solutions. What did you end up using and would you mind telling me why? I'm in the beginning stages of planning a log cabin on my farm in Central Ohio. Likely a 19 x 15 two story structure. Thx
I used 3 parts sand, 1 part Portland cement, 1/2 part lime. This seemed to be commonly used by others on RUclips and in my area, was fairly cheap and looks good in my opinion. Check out Handmade House and The Bearded Carpenter - they both are high end craftsmen who have chunked cabins and were a big help to me!
@@PenniacWilderness did you put any kind of sealer on the logs to help maintain their natural beauty? Over time the natural tan color.will fade to gray from the weather. It would be wonderful if their was a way to keep the color. Thx
@@markstoll9636 I did not put anything on them, I kind of like the grey colour, but I think there are many options. I did use an end sealer after I cut the logs to try to minimize checking of the logs though, but this was just on the butt ends.
Great video I'm in saint john n.b. planning on building same style cabin but with cedar had a few questions tried emailing you no response tho... Thanks, Denis
Hi Denis - I am sorry I missed your email. I just replied to it and called you but there was no answer. I am happy to chat and offer what help I can to you. Talk soon!
Хорошо объясняете. Спасибо. Удивляет и объединяет тот факт, что не только в России женщины могли ( прошедшее время! ) шпалы ворочать, но и ваши девушки подстать нашим - могут и бревно поднять ! Второе, что вызвало удивление, так это оставленная кора на венцах ( брёвнах) У нас её (кору) снимают скобелем. Почему вы оставляете кору ?
when they leave the bark on its called live edge, if you peel the bark off with the cambium (a layer in-between the actual good wood an the outside bark) it will make the log last way longer but we'd all be dead by the time that thing rots regardless lol. I really like the look of live edge but if I were to take this much time doing something I'd want it to last as long as possible, so I'd take it off that cambium layer. +100 hours lol
Writing from Iowa. I love all these cabin building videos. I think I missed my calling when I was young. I follow 6 or 7 different
channels. They are all very informative and entertaining. Your sister is a hard worker. I surprised some young buck hasn't tried
to take her away from you.
Hi Ron - She is a hard worker for sure. We both grew up doing this sort of stuff. She helps out some with the work and the channel but she also has a regular job and family of her own too. Thanks for the comment and for following along. I have never been to Iowa - hopefully one day!
The reason for the angles is so that with age the corners get tighter. You definitely do not need to use any fasteners on the corner. I rebuilt and hundred year old dovetailed log cabin in eastern Ontario and you could not get a dime in between the joints on almost all corners.
I debated the fasteners - You are right, I think it would have been fine without them. I love the old dovetail cabins! Mine was inspired by ones I saw in the Czech Republic.
How does one find a woman that helps you move logs to build a log cabin ? Some men live a charmed life!
This is my sister - she helps too with the cabin sometimes! We both grew up in the Canadian countryside so have put in our time working in the woods over the years :)
I like how you laid the logs.dovetail seems to work good.
Thanks Terry
You two are doing a great job! Keep it up! Would love to see how to build the jigs. Thanks
Thanks :) I made the jigs with the help of a woodworker friend. They were tedious. We made them before we started the channel, but I might be able to do a video of making them at some point after the cabin is finished!
It’s good to countersink the screws in case the logs shrink some...found that out the hard way ...
Thanks BK! Good tip - Yes, they kind of countersunk themselves a bit. Hopefully it works out :)
Looks good, found channel late, hope you pegged the logs, along their length. Hard working wife, you are lucky.
Thanks Chuck - It is actually my sister and a couple other family members in some of the videos. She likes helping out with the cabin build too.
@@PenniacWilderness Hey Chuck Killawood (neat last name), what do you mean by pegging the logs?
Cheers!
Dave
Nice to have a woman to do the heavy work.
About 21 years ago I went to Georgian bay to see a log home builder Pioneer Log. My biggest home regret not doing everything I could at the time to get one of their homes. Similar but 8X20 full length logs up to 40 feet. Adzed both sides. They offered a 2X16+ live edge siding and they used the chinking method also.
Thanks for sharing that Paul.. I am from New Brunswick and have never been to Georgian Bay. I gather you like the chinking look too for a cabin? 40 foot logs would be a challenge to work with but would make an amazing cabin or home.
By design, the weight of the cabin logs, roof etc force the joints in the corners tighter. Screws in the joints will prevent them from tightening. As the logs dry they will shrink and you will get gaps in the corners because the screws will not allow them to tighten. I built one like this 25 years ago and did not anchor the corners. In turn they are tighter now in the joints than they were when built. Cabin is looking awesome but I would be curious as to how your corner joints fit in 10 years. Incidentally, these are half dovetail joints, not dovetails.
Did you leave the gaps between logs or make them flush? Was thinking I would cut a grove down the center of the logs length. use a 2x4 like a big biscuit to seal in between the logs
@@bamadave1983 This type of joint gets its strength by bearing the weight only on the corners. Any point of contact between two logs at a location other than the corner weakens the corner joint. That is why there is a minimum 2 inch gap between the logs.
Rocky is dead on right. The screws will inhibit the joints from becoming tighter with time. It is amazing the amount of movement that occurs with the logs swelling and shrinking during the normal seasons. He is also correct on the chinking be flexible and not ridge for the same reason.
It looks like an incredibly strong way of locking the corners together. If a bomb went off in the cabin the screws would help, but I think the dovetails force the logs together (inwards).
Yes, I think you are right! I think it should be solid. Hopefully no bombs :)
Why do you need a gap between the logs? Wouldn't it be easier to fit them tight and put seal/caulk between them? Love your work.
Hi Ron - where are you writing from? Great question. There are several ways to build a cabin and you are right that one option would be to have the logs fit tight. I plan to do a video about this, but basically by leaving the gaps there a few benefits. These would include allowing space for the lumber to expand, twist, and move a bit without affecting the structure. I think historically it may have also been done to use less lumber. For me I like the look of a chinked cabin (with the gaps). Great question and I plan to soon do a video on the pros and cons of the two options. I'll give a more detailed answer in a future video. Thanks for commenting :)
Expanding foam would work a treat to fill those gaps, it would accommodate twists and warps in the beams.
Very cool
Thanks!
I like to use a Japanese pull saw over a hand saw you may find it much easier to use for what you are doing.
Nice, I have never used one but I can see how it would be helpful for sure.
feel like you could've done a lot more research did you rush starting the build? all respect i'm honestly curious, i've been planning my cabin for 10 years and i still don't know what the hell i'm going to do
I think the biggest step is starting. I am sure there is lots I could have done differently, but I am very happy with the outcome!
Incidentally, you can cut off the log ends flush.
They don't have to stick out the way yours do.
Absolutely I could! I probably will leave them as they are but I don't need to. Thank you for the comment :)
Looking great !👍🤠
Just found and subbed to your channel. I also have a HM 126 (which I love) and am milling up lumber and logs for my cabin. Am leaning toward dovetail so will be watching to pick up any advice...
Nice filming and editing!!
Tim in Wisconsin
Hi Tim - Thanks for the note. It's a lot of fun so far (and a lot of work). I really like the dovetail look so decided to go with that. I'll be interested to hear how your project comes along. Thanks again
Don't take this the wrong way, because you're doing a very good job, but you're probably a bit too OCD to build with timbers. :)
ha, thanks Jason - you are right I probably have a bit of OCD :)
Why did you put a gap between the logs?
It is unlikely that screws will twist the log. Could be your joints gap some because of the twist.
Screws would make me feel better too though.
Time will tell how it goes. I debated it and talked it over with multiple people and this is what I decided to do.
Those corners were made In Minnesota by immigrants from Finland, Sweden, and Norway as early as the 18-1900's. People still build like that.
Thanks Brian! Interesting information. I have seen this style a few places and honestly I just like the look. I get a lot of questions about the as I think it is not the most popular stlye but neat to know there are some in Minnesota.
Why didn't you remove all the bark from the logs?
If you check out the newer build videos, you can see that most of the bark has been removed. You are right, the bark is a portal for insects to get into the wood!
@@PenniacWilderness i havent watched all your video's yet. Keep it up!
Weight of the logs approximation: 6"*10"*120" *62.4[pounds/cubic foot]/(12*12*12)=260 pounds or 130 on each end
Assuming they have the density of water. How deep would they float in water. If they'd float 50% under water and 50% above water, the density would be 62.4* 50%/100% or 31.2 pounds per cubic foot, and the logs would weigh 260*50% or 130 pounds total. drier lighter, wetter heavier. Or take a sample cubic inch and weigh it.
Very interesting! That feels about right. I could move one end on my own, but the whole log would be pretty unlikely. I was planning to take a small piece of it and weight it at sometime. I have some end pieces that I cut off. Could weight a few and get an average weight and multiply to get the length of the entire log. You clearly have some experience in this sort of work or with log construction? Very neat. Thanks - I appreciate you sharing that and also how you did the calculation.
I was an engineering student 50 years ago. Best Regards. Great Video. (She's a keeper.Take good care of her.)
Wood : heart face to the sun . Always
Good tip! Thank-you.
Huh? How is that possible on a square timber?
what a woman..doing the heavy lifting while you slid the log in place
Hi Ruby - Yes she can lift those logs. It is impressive!
But unfortunatly, here in india wood is a costly medium of construction. We only use wood for windows and doors.. nowadays even these usage of wood is becoming expensive and unaffordable aswell
Wood here is also becoming more and more expensive this year. I have heard this has been a problem in India for quite some time. I would love to see your country one day.
question. what were the original dimensions of the timbers when they arrived on site ? Thx
I milled all the main cabin timbers to be 14 feet long, 10 inch tall, 6 inch wide. Any other questions just ask! I used spruce.
Yes one more question. There are many different chinking mixtures/ compounds/ solutions. What did you end up using and would you mind telling me why? I'm in the beginning stages of planning a log cabin on my farm in Central Ohio. Likely a 19 x 15 two story structure. Thx
I used 3 parts sand, 1 part Portland cement, 1/2 part lime. This seemed to be commonly used by others on RUclips and in my area, was fairly cheap and looks good in my opinion. Check out Handmade House and The Bearded Carpenter - they both are high end craftsmen who have chunked cabins and were a big help to me!
@@PenniacWilderness did you put any kind of sealer on the logs to help maintain their natural beauty? Over time the natural tan color.will fade to gray from the weather. It would be wonderful if their was a way to keep the color. Thx
@@markstoll9636 I did not put anything on them, I kind of like the grey colour, but I think there are many options. I did use an end sealer after I cut the logs to try to minimize checking of the logs though, but this was just on the butt ends.
What is the dimensions of you timbers?
They are 10 inch tall, 6 inch wide and 14 feet long.
Great video I'm in saint john n.b. planning on building same style cabin but with cedar had a few questions tried emailing you no response tho...
Thanks,
Denis
Hi Denis - I am sorry I missed your email. I just replied to it and called you but there was no answer. I am happy to chat and offer what help I can to you. Talk soon!
Хорошо объясняете. Спасибо.
Удивляет и объединяет тот факт, что
не только в России женщины могли ( прошедшее время! ) шпалы ворочать, но и ваши девушки подстать нашим - могут и бревно поднять !
Второе, что вызвало удивление, так это оставленная кора на венцах ( брёвнах)
У нас её (кору) снимают скобелем.
Почему вы оставляете кору ?
Do not screw them together!
I prefer cleaned čut logs without bark on the edge.
when they leave the bark on its called live edge, if you peel the bark off with the cambium (a layer in-between the actual good wood an the outside bark) it will make the log last way longer but we'd all be dead by the time that thing rots regardless lol. I really like the look of live edge but if I were to take this much time doing something I'd want it to last as long as possible, so I'd take it off that cambium layer. +100 hours lol
I would like to meet with you how can I contact you? Are you on Facebook?
Hi Scott! You can email me at penniacwilderness@outlook.com, I'd be happy to connect.
daar sta je toch alweer te kletsen verschrikkelijk
Du kannst ja für dein Frau ein Handschuhe kaufen du arme
Sie hat ein Paar, aber vielleicht sollte ich sie mehr bekommen :)
Noupnoup,