Hand Cut Half Lap Miter Joint | Woodworking Joints
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2021
- Hand cut half lap miter joint. Rob Cosman shows you how to hand cut a perfect half lap miter joint.
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I'm a photographer who specializes in printed, framed portraits. I got pretty darn good at making frames on the table saw... but I recently moved to Japan and didn't bring my table saw. I tried my first half lap miter today, looking for a handtool alternative. It wasn't pretty. I'm frustrated, because my I'm lucky enough to have my livelihood depend on working with wood, but just don't have a lot of the skills to work with hand tools in an effective way. This video(like many others of yours) certainly helped and inspired me to try again. Thank you.
Hey rob you should think about changing Your lamp on your bench to a cob style led light. They fit standard sockets and are stupid bright! As my eyes get older the more light I have the better. Thanks for all of these great videos. Wish I watched this weeks ago when I was building picture frames
A blast from the past! I kinda miss the old shop.
Wow! I was thinking exactly those words!
Luther is reediting afew old videos.
At 10: and change, I would use the other piece to support the router plane and help avoid it from digging.
Excellent tuition as usual - thanks. And a special shout-out to the videographer - excellent imagery. Good job. Thanks, team. Treasured stuff.
if you'd made an entire picture frame I still would have watched the whole way through. Always a privilege to see you work!
Wow thanks
Thankful to see this! Great tutorial!
Great quick explanation. I was actually looking for a way to cut an elongated cross joint, but ended up watching the entire video anyway. Was this on 2x talking speed? I was having a difficult time following 🤪
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Love the content mate good stuff
Love to see you explain and demonstrate a mitered finger joint!
I will tell Luther to put it on the list
Outstanding as usual.
Thanks
So good! Was just thinking of this joint today.
thats why we released it...just for you !!!!
Well done. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Thanks, you too!
Great refresher~! I remember watching this the first time when it came out. Watching good work never gets old~!
That was in 2016!
Great video thanks, and wish you and your family and crew a speedy recovery 🙏
Much appreciated
Great video as always! Amazed by the fit of the joint when you are done. A real inspiration to watch. Take care.
Thanks 👍
Good job Rob, I get a great deal watching fellow woodworkers and for me every day is a school day. Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
thanks
Well done !
It became obvious early on in the video that tool-sharpness is paramount.
Absolutely
Sharpness is the key factor
Video suggestion: different types of wood, their characteristics, and the problems you run into with this or that type and how to fix them. I saw you deal with tearout in a video on some woods with just sharp blade, but you had to switch to a high angle blade to cut the white oak cleanly. That's a good tip in a video about oak. Padauk? Would you need to take the scraper to it because it won't plane clean? Is this type of wood or that good in indoor versus outdoor furniture? And so on. You do a great job on tools and making things, but learning the materials is also interesting and important. BTW, I'm thinking of one video per species. There's a series in that.
Always enjoy your videos - the talent in woodcraft and videography is great. Would like to see you get some LED panel lights to get that annoying lamp out of the way of the camera - but it does bring nostalgia :-) - the last minute of the video seemed a bit rushed, and would have liked to have heard some explanation around the other ends of the sticks you didn't miter. I'm assuming you would cut those if you needed miters on them before gluing up the ends you did, which I assume was to show how it comes together?
Sometimes it's a good thing repeat an old but good concept.
I agree with you
Rob, I tried to put a piece of 1/2” ply on my router plane. The cutter was to short. It’s a L N router and was not expecting it to be short. Do I have to order a different blade for it? Enjoy all your videos cause you take your time so people like me can learn from the best!!!!
You know, its almost deceiving how easy you make that look Rob. As always, thank your for the education and inspiration sir.
The hardest thing is rememebring the layout...after that a couple of practice cuts and you will have it down
Felt like I was doing the time warp on Halloween great video from the past
Luther is editing some of our old videos
How did you get your miter cuts in the bench dog so crisp and precise? They look to be the same kerf size as the saw.
Thank you for the video. I need that skill. I usually stay away from miters and do a bridal joint. I also need to get a shoulder and a router plane and learn how to use and sharpen them. I am learning to do the free hand plane and chisel sharpening that you teach - my skill there is coming along. But thinking about sharpening that router blade is intimidating. One day... How wide can these joints, lap or bridal be before cross grain gets to be a problem? Will putting a little epoxy on the end grain stop the wood movement? I assume that most of the water comes in through the end grain. My hypothesis is to put some slow cure epoxy on the end grain and let it soak in. Then sand it or plane it but leave some that soaked in and apply the finish to the whole board...
Don, Sounds like you are on your way. Actually sharpeningthe blade on the router plane is super easy I have a RUclips vidoe on "Sharpening Odd shapes" that shows how. How big before crpssgrain issue creap in depends on the wood species, but you are typically Ok in 2-3 inches of wood - but not always. Your epoxy idea might slow absorbtion but it wont stop it
Wish I would have know of you 5 years ago when I self-taught myself this joint by wasting an amount of beautiful spalted maple that I am now ashamed of.
Thanks for all your hard work Rob!
I love his obsession with precision.
Well the good thing is you have found us now
One more time an amazing video about hand tools and tips.Please can you tell me the name and brand of that "knife" you use to spread glue at correct spot and amount?I loved it.
Thank You
Its just a art palette knife, you can get them anywaher...just do an internet search
Its just a no nam art palette knife I picked up. They are available everywhere. Just do an internet search
I just found it at near home artist store. And it is a very cheap kit.
One more time thank you for video classes ,help and support.
Take care
Hey Rob, new to your channel. Just want to say keep up the great work and thank you for all that you do.
Hi Rob. I tend to have real trouble using my shooting board on material any thicker than about 1/2". It's really hard to push the plane through and I feel that I am relying on momentum more than I should do. The timber I am using is Oak, but it's also not great even with Pine? I don't know what I am doing wrong. My blade is sharp enough to cut the hair on my arm, and I am only taking very light passes. I sharpen the blade to 30 degrees. I am using a No4 plane. Any thoughts?
Well sounds like you are doing OK, but the shooting board DOES need the mass of a big plane and forward momentum. I would never choose to use a No4 unless it was a very very small / thin piece of wood. I use my 5-1/2 as it has lots of mass and once I get it moving forward with its sharp blade it will slice right through the wood
Any issues marking with that plane blade if you’ve used the charlesworth ruler trick?
Yes. To use it as a marker you need a perfectly flat back, the same as a marking knife
I see some blood on the apron. Rob’s dedication is beyond commendable
A sign of sharp blades!!!!!
At 9:53 with the router plane, it would be much easier to place the other pieces of 3/4" on the bench to support the right side of the base plate. That's how I was taught to do such things (same when using a powered router too).
You can do that, but I don’t find that ‘much easier’. I find it easier to learn to keep pressure on the supported side of the router plane plus a sub base as I use makes my method much easier
Hey Rob was this filmed in your old shop? I watched many of your videos from that shop and remember the window views 😀
Yes it was
Previous previous shop? The one with a trap door under shoulder vise?
Yes it was my first shop
You need to control the right angle of the work pieces. It's easy to get a tight joint, but is the right angle right?
Absoluetly which is why we used the process I showed. I should have checked it with a square at the end of the video
Rob, you made a perfect lapped joint in isolation, but In practice, this joint is part of a sequence, such as in a picture frame. This means the slight lap offset left by the saw is a serious problem that can't be fixed with the plane, doing so causes the other miters in the sequence to open up. Just wondering if you have any thoughts on this.
You areabsolutely correct. If I did that when making a frame I would have to adjust the oppiste corner the exact same way. This video was just showing how to make the joint, how to apply it and the issue that pop up in that context is another video
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I would be keen on seeing your strategy for adjusting the other joints. Looking forward to a video on the subject!
Please describe the saw you are using in this video, it looks like your dovetail saw?
It is out joinery crosscut, same frame as my dovetail but 15 tpi crosscut teeth with .002 set per side.
Just wondering why you didn't mark the 45 on the second piece of wood from the 45 on the first piece of wood? TIA.
Because my reference is my known to be dead on combo square. Theoretically that should work but I dont want to introduce any errors
When you did the second one with the router plane and didn’t want to change the setting, this is when you need two router planes 😜😜
I want to cut with the exact setting. I was using. I should have a depth gauge. LN sells them fir this plane
👍👍👍👍👍
thanks
Wow you really make it a lot more work than needs be. Try a table saw and a 45 degree jig. A whole lot easier and quicker.
The whole purpose of this video was to show how to cut this joint by hand, not machine. A viewer requested we show the hand cut process, so we did. We have another RUclips out there showing how to cut this joint by machine
Wow, Rob how did you get younger???
No you are getting older!!!!!!!
When router planing, why don't you use the other piece of wood to support the unsupported end of the plane?
You can if you have an off cut of the same thickness. I am confident enough on my ability to put pressure down on the plane riding on the wood that I dont need and outrigger piece of wood
John Heisz just released a video of a genius wooden miter clamp. Just sayin ....
His clamp is a basic corner clamp in DIY style.
Rob. Are you travelling okay mate? Just seems like your thoughts were somewhere else a couple of times there. If you need to talk to an Aussie, here I am....
I am doing fine, thanks for the concern
Becomes conscious of time pressure, instantly makes slight mistake (too much glue). How instructive is that!?
You are very observant….good catch