Very helpful video. As an electric guitar owner I can tell you that when you encounter an issue, the first thing you check is the wiring. It seems that is true here also. And by what you have shown here it seems the wiring schematic is less complicated than on most guitars. There is just a lot more of it, 73 vs 6 Lol!
Exactly. A Rhodes is basically the piano version of an electric guitar. Almost all the modification or refurb steps are individually pretty straightforward, you just have to do it 73 +times
I wonder if you can help me. I have a Rhodes MK-80 and even after trying every combination I still cannot get it to reset. I’m trying to get it to play the acoustic tones. I also have the issue that Middle C is playing a B. Ugh. Any ideas?
Sorry if i'm not super helpful. As far as I know, the mk-80 is a totally digital piano. Based on the manual, I think your c->b issue is probably that the transposition is set wrong www.manualslib.com/manual/695739/Rhodes-Rhodes-Mk-80.html?page=28#manual I also found a service manual that is probably much more detailed than you need, but I do know many old synths have trouble resetting or saving memory if the battery that manages their onboard memory dies: www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/MK-80_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf
Not sure. I restored a pretty beat up one that had some oxidizing (discolored/white/spotty) on the tone bars. I cleaned them all with water and just lived with it. The tines didn't seem especially bad or anything and it all sounded fine to me!
Read a bunch online and be methodical. If you take the cover off and get close, you should be able to see/hear the hammer hit the tines, which would mean the tines are fine. If no sound is coming out at all, use the screwdriver trick on the magnet (it should click or pop when you touch it). If it's just one note out, it could either be bad wiring or maybe you need to totally replace the pickup. If its a few in a row, the cause is almost always bad wiring.
Hi there. I appreciate your video. I have a suitcase 88, preamp and Janus power amp work. Not getting signal from harp to preamp though....any suggestions on where to start? I tested all pickups resistance with a multimeter and I think I have about 10dead pickups. But I'm thinking it should still make sound. Any suggestions of the top of your head? Thanks again.
Sounds like something may be shorting out the harp or cable. What is the resistance across the whole harp?. Even with 10 dead pickups, I think it should still work, unless it is wired in serial, I know things were weird for very early Rhodes, but I don't think that should be the case. Also test feeding a small signal to ensure the power amp actually work. You can also feed the harp rcs directly into some mixer or other preamp for testing as well.
@@JordanColburn1 thanks! I tried to measure the resistance on the entire harp (not exactly sure where to take the readings) but I'm not getting any resistance. I'm wondering if the pickups need to be remagnitized. They seem very weak when testing with an screwdriver tip. Highly likely it had another keyboard setting ontop of it for many years. (Was in storage since 90s). I may try and magnitude one and see if I get any response. I traced all the wires connecting pickups and all look connected and in the correct wiring sequence per online diagram. Still not 100% convinced it's not the preamp, but I plug my Tele into accessory 2 (return of fx loop) and I get full sound out of the Janus....would love any other suggestions or thoughts and THANKS AGAIN.
@@osuspirit sounds like you definitely have a wiring issue with your pickups or the connection to the input of the amp. I don't know about suitcases, but my Rhodes has an RCA connection on the harp and that's a good place to start. You can make sure the cable from there to the amp is good using continuity on the multimeter. Measusure like 170ish ohms on the output of the harp at that rca jack (measure across the ring and the tip). www.fenderrhodes.com/service/pickups.html There is almost no way all the pickups demagnetized and went bad. It is most likely a pickup wire that is shorting the whole harp or something.
@@osuspirit Yeah, don't go crazy and do a bunch of unnecessary work, when all of a thing is out like this, there is usually one root cause. Be methodical, learn to trace the continuity and read up on how rhodes are wired, it will click once you find it.
Have a Rhodes 88...had the 73 up until a week ago. I'll miss it. Re the 88. I believe it's a low B no sound..the tong/ stiff rod..looks too short luge out was snipped or perfectly broken off...do they makeor sell this wire like rod? I see the hammer coming up but it hits nothing...like the rod should be longer. The rod doesn't seem to move at all..so pulling it out further doesn't seem to be an option. Any advice appreciated
@@granttaskerud5367 www.vintagevibe.com/products/fender-rhodes-tines Just get the full length tine and cut to the correct length. Just longer then the higher pitched note to the right. I'm pretty sure their long version covers 88 key pianos, but call them and ask. They know all the finer details.
Question. I noticed on my high “E” and the one below it have the same issue. The wiring looks sound, but the tines are not vibrating. And to mention it the upper two octaves almost are quieter than the bottom notes. Any ideas? I was thinking it was the hammer not hitting at all. All others vibrate fine in those octaves of question just not the “E”. Any advice is appreciated.
MusicMatic707 I'd guess your Es that aren't vibrating have action problems (the hammer isn't hitting because the tine is too high or not aligned right). You can test this by the screwdriver test (the pickups and wiring are good if touching a screwdriver. makes a small pop on all pickips). You can also play a note and try to damp the time with your hand. If it's working right, you should be able to feel the vibration (check your good keys for comparision). I could be wrong, but I'd guess that your quieter octaves are a voicing issue and not a wiring issue. You can loosen the pickup screw and move the pickups a bit closer to the tine to increase the volume for each note. You can also use the two screws on each tine to adjust the time position I'm relation to the pickup. Slightly below and inline has a lot of fundamental (pure low note), while slightly above can have more overtones and bark. It's hard to break, so try some adjustments and use your ears.
@prod. JWAV I didn't. But I contacted Vintage Vibes and they have the replacement parts. I won't trust a repairman to fix because I may never see my baby again. But Vintage Vibes sells tines, springs and hammered online. Check them out.
I feel like it was a few more years than that, but it was 500 with some dead notes and small case damage. I also got a student model that was basically a rats nest inside with a bunch of dead notes (various reasons) for 300. Fixed that one up and sold for 850. Tough to find prices like that any more, people want 1k+ for very beat up instruments missing stands and pedals and things.
@@JordanColburn1 oh just tryna get a gage on what I should sell mine for. It's been sitting in the garage for 20 years latched shut. My dad bought it off my uncle cuz he needed money. He use to play amateur gigs on it. And it's just been sitting closed until now. The outside of the suitcase got thrashed from sitting in the garage uncovered that long but the inside was surprisingly nice . Very little dust. All the keys feel good . Haven't figured out how to turn it on though lol there's no power cord to plug in and the thing is heavy as hell. Does it have its own amp? Or do I have to get a separate amp to test if it even works . I'm sure it does though . Sorry for all the questions
Also everything was there . The four legs, pedal, and a rod that goes from the pedal up to the bottom of the keyboard ,(don't know what that's called) the only thing missing is I guess there's 2 cross bars that connect to the legs. Those arent there
Hey I have a seventy three student model. the idea is the same for these, as far as the tines, magnets, tests you mention...correct ? it is pretty much like this one, but some of the tones aren't awesome, so I need to tune it up... I'm in SoCal
Absolutely, they all had the same parts inside. I had one I fixed up and sold a few years ago. They're really cool. If you look at the year/month stamp, it will be about the same as all other rhodes from that time period. Check your keys out, you may also have the marcel pedestals, which is a little unique and results in a pretty good action: ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=9197.0
@@JordanColburn1 Middle C on my 1970 mk1 kinda goes thud, or in other words it makes a dull thud instead of ringing out. I’ve tried to voice it, but it still does thud. Any ideas?
@@jonnda my guess is that it is either a bad tine (you can just buy a new one) or a problem with the action. You can swap it with another note to test. If the other note sounds good played from that key, then the tine is the problem. If the other tine sounds thuddy too, it's the action. Problems with the action could be the white felt damper not pulling back, so the not never rings or the hammer being misaligned so it doesn't hit the tine in the right place or the hammer tip is worn out and doesn't hit the tine right. Let me know what you find out!
Hi Jordan. Congratulations. You're gonna have frustration and joy fixing your Rhodes. To help you where can I email the service manual.
I don't like touching the pickup with a screwdriver tip because if the tool is magnetized, it will affect the magnetic field of the pickup.
Very helpful video. As an electric guitar owner I can tell you that when you encounter an issue, the first thing you check is the wiring. It seems that is true here also.
And by what you have shown here it seems the wiring schematic is less complicated than on most guitars. There is just a lot more of it, 73 vs 6 Lol!
Exactly. A Rhodes is basically the piano version of an electric guitar. Almost all the modification or refurb steps are individually pretty straightforward, you just have to do it 73 +times
Just got a 1976 Mark 1. Needs a few repairs but overall. Wow! Good video and thanks for sharing.
Thanks, hope it helps! Feel free to ask me any questions. Enjoy it, such beautiful instruments!
Thanks..I will try again
Very good video,and thanks.
Thangs man..
I wonder if you can help me. I have a Rhodes MK-80 and even after trying every combination I still cannot get it to reset. I’m trying to get it to play the acoustic tones. I also have the issue that Middle C is playing a B. Ugh. Any ideas?
Sorry if i'm not super helpful. As far as I know, the mk-80 is a totally digital piano. Based on the manual, I think your c->b issue is probably that the transposition is set wrong www.manualslib.com/manual/695739/Rhodes-Rhodes-Mk-80.html?page=28#manual I also found a service manual that is probably much more detailed than you need, but I do know many old synths have trouble resetting or saving memory if the battery that manages their onboard memory dies: www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/MK-80_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf
Good luck!
A music store guy said sumthing about making sure the tines aren't oxidized . Does any have an example of what that might look like ?
Not sure. I restored a pretty beat up one that had some oxidizing (discolored/white/spotty) on the tone bars. I cleaned them all with water and just lived with it. The tines didn't seem especially bad or anything and it all sounded fine to me!
Just aqquired the suitcase seventy three.....gonna need a couple of notes either soldered or tines replaced or somthing.....
Read a bunch online and be methodical. If you take the cover off and get close, you should be able to see/hear the hammer hit the tines, which would mean the tines are fine. If no sound is coming out at all, use the screwdriver trick on the magnet (it should click or pop when you touch it). If it's just one note out, it could either be bad wiring or maybe you need to totally replace the pickup. If its a few in a row, the cause is almost always bad wiring.
@@JordanColburn1 Thanks .
Hi there. I appreciate your video. I have a suitcase 88, preamp and Janus power amp work. Not getting signal from harp to preamp though....any suggestions on where to start? I tested all pickups resistance with a multimeter and I think I have about 10dead pickups. But I'm thinking it should still make sound. Any suggestions of the top of your head? Thanks again.
Sounds like something may be shorting out the harp or cable. What is the resistance across the whole harp?. Even with 10 dead pickups, I think it should still work, unless it is wired in serial, I know things were weird for very early Rhodes, but I don't think that should be the case.
Also test feeding a small signal to ensure the power amp actually work. You can also feed the harp rcs directly into some mixer or other preamp for testing as well.
@@JordanColburn1 thanks! I tried to measure the resistance on the entire harp (not exactly sure where to take the readings) but I'm not getting any resistance. I'm wondering if the pickups need to be remagnitized. They seem very weak when testing with an screwdriver tip. Highly likely it had another keyboard setting ontop of it for many years. (Was in storage since 90s). I may try and magnitude one and see if I get any response. I traced all the wires connecting pickups and all look connected and in the correct wiring sequence per online diagram. Still not 100% convinced it's not the preamp, but I plug my Tele into accessory 2 (return of fx loop) and I get full sound out of the Janus....would love any other suggestions or thoughts and THANKS AGAIN.
@@osuspirit sounds like you definitely have a wiring issue with your pickups or the connection to the input of the amp. I don't know about suitcases, but my Rhodes has an RCA connection on the harp and that's a good place to start.
You can make sure the cable from there to the amp is good using continuity on the multimeter. Measusure like 170ish ohms on the output of the harp at that rca jack (measure across the ring and the tip).
www.fenderrhodes.com/service/pickups.html
There is almost no way all the pickups demagnetized and went bad. It is most likely a pickup wire that is shorting the whole harp or something.
@@JordanColburn1 I ordered a new rca plug. I'll keep ya posted. Hoping to bring this Rhodes back to life.
@@osuspirit Yeah, don't go crazy and do a bunch of unnecessary work, when all of a thing is out like this, there is usually one root cause. Be methodical, learn to trace the continuity and read up on how rhodes are wired, it will click once you find it.
Have a Rhodes 88...had the 73 up until a week ago. I'll miss it. Re the 88. I believe it's a low B no sound..the tong/ stiff rod..looks too short luge out was snipped or perfectly broken off...do they makeor sell this wire like rod? I see the hammer coming up but it hits nothing...like the rod should be longer. The rod doesn't seem to move at all..so pulling it out further doesn't seem to be an option. Any advice appreciated
Yeah, it sounds like you're referring what's called the tine. They do break sometimes, check out the company vintage vibe for replacements.
Sounds like you are describing the tines.
Vintage vibe out of stock. Seems line a simple enough item any diy solutions? Welding rod? Not quite thick enough.
@@granttaskerud5367 www.vintagevibe.com/products/fender-rhodes-tines Just get the full length tine and cut to the correct length. Just longer then the higher pitched note to the right. I'm pretty sure their long version covers 88 key pianos, but call them and ask. They know all the finer details.
Question. I noticed on my high “E” and the one below it have the same issue. The wiring looks sound, but the tines are not vibrating. And to mention it the upper two octaves almost are quieter than the bottom notes. Any ideas? I was thinking it was the hammer not hitting at all. All others vibrate fine in those octaves of question just not the “E”. Any advice is appreciated.
MusicMatic707 I'd guess your Es that aren't vibrating have action problems (the hammer isn't hitting because the tine is too high or not aligned right). You can test this by the screwdriver test (the pickups and wiring are good if touching a screwdriver. makes a small pop on all pickips). You can also play a note and try to damp the time with your hand. If it's working right, you should be able to feel the vibration (check your good keys for comparision).
I could be wrong, but I'd guess that your quieter octaves are a voicing issue and not a wiring issue. You can loosen the pickup screw and move the pickups a bit closer to the tine to increase the volume for each note. You can also use the two screws on each tine to adjust the time position I'm relation to the pickup. Slightly below and inline has a lot of fundamental (pure low note), while slightly above can have more overtones and bark. It's hard to break, so try some adjustments and use your ears.
Thanks much, will let you know how it all works out.
@prod. JWAV I didn't. But I contacted Vintage Vibes and they have the replacement parts. I won't trust a repairman to fix because I may never see my baby again. But Vintage Vibes sells tines, springs and hammered online. Check them out.
The tremolo on your 73 work? mine doesnt
Mine is a stage 73, so no trem. Never had a suitcase so I can't advise there, sorry!
If u don't mind me asking how much did u pick this keyboard up for 4 years ago ?
I feel like it was a few more years than that, but it was 500 with some dead notes and small case damage. I also got a student model that was basically a rats nest inside with a bunch of dead notes (various reasons) for 300. Fixed that one up and sold for 850. Tough to find prices like that any more, people want 1k+ for very beat up instruments missing stands and pedals and things.
@@JordanColburn1 oh just tryna get a gage on what I should sell mine for. It's been sitting in the garage for 20 years latched shut. My dad bought it off my uncle cuz he needed money. He use to play amateur gigs on it. And it's just been sitting closed until now. The outside of the suitcase got thrashed from sitting in the garage uncovered that long but the inside was surprisingly nice . Very little dust. All the keys feel good . Haven't figured out how to turn it on though lol there's no power cord to plug in and the thing is heavy as hell. Does it have its own amp? Or do I have to get a separate amp to test if it even works . I'm sure it does though . Sorry for all the questions
Also everything was there . The four legs, pedal, and a rod that goes from the pedal up to the bottom of the keyboard ,(don't know what that's called) the only thing missing is I guess there's 2 cross bars that connect to the legs. Those arent there
Hey I have a seventy three student model. the idea is the same for these, as far as the tines, magnets, tests you mention...correct ? it is pretty much like this one, but some of the tones aren't awesome, so I need to tune it up... I'm in SoCal
www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Fender/Vintage-1970-Rhodes-Seventy-Three-Stage-Piano-Acoustic-Piano-115790787.gc?source=4WWRWXGP&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjOrtBRCcARIsAEq4rW7KrfIHKqy1rR8Hoi4swDfDBWe3oeImzlqEeqevQXuwU_lxBtpkiNYaAoPuEALw_wcB
Absolutely, they all had the same parts inside. I had one I fixed up and sold a few years ago. They're really cool. If you look at the year/month stamp, it will be about the same as all other rhodes from that time period. Check your keys out, you may also have the marcel pedestals, which is a little unique and results in a pretty good action: ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=9197.0
And let me know any questions you have, I've pretty much done most basic refurb tasks as a newbie, so i'm sure I could help out.
@@JordanColburn1 Middle C on my 1970 mk1 kinda goes thud, or in other words it makes a dull thud instead of ringing out. I’ve tried to voice it, but it still does thud. Any ideas?
@@jonnda my guess is that it is either a bad tine (you can just buy a new one) or a problem with the action. You can swap it with another note to test. If the other note sounds good played from that key, then the tine is the problem. If the other tine sounds thuddy too, it's the action. Problems with the action could be the white felt damper not pulling back, so the not never rings or the hammer being misaligned so it doesn't hit the tine in the right place or the hammer tip is worn out and doesn't hit the tine right. Let me know what you find out!