Just watched all nine of your FIX YOUR TRAILER videos. You did an awesome job of explaining how the trailer lights work. How to fix and troubleshoot. Thanks for such a quality video tutorial.
I've found the wiring on these trailers using 18-20 gauge wire. seems like after a year or 2, the actual wire goes to shit( excuse my French). The copper wire turns black. The grounding just breaks off from vibration. I rewire using 14 gauge ( seems excessive), soldering and shrink wrapping connections. The light fixtures are wired by spring plates , everything seems to be getting cheaper and cheaper. Excellent explanation on the testing. Most problems with these lighting systems is a bad ground.
Yes, I've experienced much of what you mentioned. I just finished up a video on grounding. You're right that's were a lot of problems come from. Thanks for adding in, KPO.
Cool👍🏽 please try to mention my situation where if factory installed there might be a power converter and separate fuses somewhere in the car mine was behind the drivers seat in the jack cubbyhole 2004 Toyota Tacoma somebody else might be experiencing the same problem Thanks.
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful. My marker lights don’t come on with the headlights. Everything else works fine. I tested each bulb and found 1 of the 4, not good. Do all 4 bulbs need to be good for circuit to be complete?
What would cause a bulb to burn out? I replaced the fixture and in 1 use I had to replace the bulb. Used it again and same fixture had the bulb burnt out before I returned home. Seems to happen after I unload my trailer of its cargo on the way home. Could I have the fixture nuts too tight or loose? Great series.
I guess the next question would be is the bulb burnt out or is the filament broken? If the filament is broken the fixture just might be banging around too much. Sometimes I have had bulbs pop because I backed a boat trailer into cold water with the lights plugged in. Hot bulb and cold water don't mix. Or maybe it's just time to up grade to LEDS. Let me know if you figure it out, KPO.
Hello, i've been watching all of the videos in this series. I think one of the wires is cut; looks like the trailer i bought had a BIG mouse problem and some cords are chewed on (bigger ones that didnt get fully damaged from what i can atleast) but i can't access the wires going to the back lights and none of the rear lights are working at all so I imagine it's a wire that supplies all of them on my 7way wiring. How do i check the wires to see which one is broken? Should i hook up my vehicle and go in with the multimeter-how should i do that?
Yes, you may have to hook up the vehicle and see what you got. Check for expected voltage at the fixtures, see if it blows fuses. If there is evidence of suspect wires you may want to just rewire. Hard to say what's going on inside the trailer frame. You might get it working one day and then have problems the next. If you do rewire check this one out ruclips.net/video/-14kh2DYdOo/видео.html Let me know how it works out.
Glad you enjoyed it. If you're interested in trailer lights I have a whole playlist that I did, LINK - ruclips.net/p/PLksX0m4wrQHxmTQj8rk3Sazefa3uITFe4 Thanks for watching, KPO.
Great videos!! I started having an issue where my lights come on but seem to be very dim. The run lights and signals work but when I press the brake the lights go out, release brake and they come back on. I tried replacing the bulbs but have the same problem. Any ideas 💡
It really sounds like a ground problem. Make sure the trailer ground wire has a good connection to the trailer frame and also check the vehicle side. What can happen when you loose the ground connection the current will back feed through the other lights sometimes. The extra resistance will make the lights dim. I think when you hit the brakes you are taking away the back feed path. Check the grounds and let me know how it goes, KPO.
How can you test a light fixture w/o removing it from the trailer? I have an enclosed trailer where half the 12 or so running lights are not working. But half are. It’s not simple to look at the wiring because it’s behind plywood wall.
Well, check the bulbs first if you have them. Otherwise you may have to pull the fixture and disconnect to check. The fixtures are most likely wired in parallel, making it difficult to read a bad fixture with a meter when still connected. If it's just one side, it may be a bad ground on that side. Let me know how it turns out, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors the 2 brake lights are LEDs. The rest are incandescent bulbs. On the left side brake light, only half the LEDs light up with the running lights on. However with the left turn signal all but one of the LEDs light up. It has been suggested to me that one of the wire connectors on the running lights must be loose. I know the running lights on the back top are definitely in parallel. So I'm guessing all the lights are in parallel. I wonder if I could have a low voltage issue with the trailer side connector. The trailer is only 6 years old with 200 miles, but it's been about 4 years since I had plugged it in. None of the bulbs appear to be burned out. I have soaked my trailer side connector in Diablo taco Bell sauce. That didn't seem to make a difference.
Just watched all nine of your FIX YOUR TRAILER videos. You did an awesome job of explaining how the trailer lights work. How to fix and troubleshoot. Thanks for such a quality video tutorial.
Chuck, my man, thanks so much for that comment. Glad to hear the vids help, KPO.
Binged on your trailer light series today. Learned a ton of good easy to understand info, thank you much for taking the time to make it. Ken
Thanks again, I hope they help you out, KPO.
I've found the wiring on these trailers using 18-20 gauge wire. seems like after a year or 2, the actual wire goes to shit( excuse my French). The copper wire turns black. The grounding just breaks off from vibration. I rewire using 14 gauge ( seems excessive), soldering and shrink wrapping connections. The light fixtures are wired by spring plates , everything seems to be getting cheaper and cheaper. Excellent explanation on the testing. Most problems with these lighting systems is a bad ground.
Yes, I've experienced much of what you mentioned. I just finished up a video on grounding. You're right that's were a lot of problems come from. Thanks for adding in, KPO.
All of these videos help us understand what we didn’t know.Thanks for taking the time to make them.👍🏽
Thanks for the comment. More trailer light vids to come, KPO.
Cool👍🏽 please try to mention my situation where if factory installed there might be a power converter and separate fuses somewhere in the car mine was behind the drivers seat in the jack cubbyhole 2004 Toyota Tacoma somebody else might be experiencing the same problem Thanks.
Good idea, KPO.
THANK YOU! Much appreciated. Super easy to check lights.
Glad it helped
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful. My marker lights don’t come on with the headlights. Everything else works fine. I tested each bulb and found 1 of the 4, not good. Do all 4 bulbs need to be good for circuit to be complete?
Different fixtures are different. I would replace the bulb and see what happens.
What would cause a bulb to burn out? I replaced the fixture and in 1 use I had to replace the bulb. Used it again and same fixture had the bulb burnt out before I returned home. Seems to happen after I unload my trailer of its cargo on the way home. Could I have the fixture nuts too tight or loose? Great series.
I guess the next question would be is the bulb burnt out or is the filament broken? If the filament is broken the fixture just might be banging around too much. Sometimes I have had bulbs pop because I backed a boat trailer into cold water with the lights plugged in. Hot bulb and cold water don't mix. Or maybe it's just time to up grade to LEDS. Let me know if you figure it out, KPO.
I've always had some issue with trailer lights. Thanks for the great informstion.
Jeff, keep checking on my "trailer light" playlist. I'm always adding to it. I hope it helps you out, KPO.
Hello, i've been watching all of the videos in this series. I think one of the wires is cut; looks like the trailer i bought had a BIG mouse problem and some cords are chewed on (bigger ones that didnt get fully damaged from what i can atleast) but i can't access the wires going to the back lights and none of the rear lights are working at all so I imagine it's a wire that supplies all of them on my 7way wiring. How do i check the wires to see which one is broken? Should i hook up my vehicle and go in with the multimeter-how should i do that?
Yes, you may have to hook up the vehicle and see what you got. Check for expected voltage at the fixtures, see if it blows fuses. If there is evidence of suspect wires you may want to just rewire. Hard to say what's going on inside the trailer frame. You might get it working one day and then have problems the next. If you do rewire check this one out ruclips.net/video/-14kh2DYdOo/видео.html Let me know how it works out.
Great series, thank you!
You are welcome, KPO.
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it. If you're interested in trailer lights I have a whole playlist that I did, LINK - ruclips.net/p/PLksX0m4wrQHxmTQj8rk3Sazefa3uITFe4 Thanks for watching, KPO.
Great videos!! I started having an issue where my lights come on but seem to be very dim. The run lights and signals work but when I press the brake the lights go out, release brake and they come back on. I tried replacing the bulbs but have the same problem. Any ideas 💡
It really sounds like a ground problem. Make sure the trailer ground wire has a good connection to the trailer frame and also check the vehicle side. What can happen when you loose the ground connection the current will back feed through the other lights sometimes. The extra resistance will make the lights dim. I think when you hit the brakes you are taking away the back feed path. Check the grounds and let me know how it goes, KPO.
How can you test a light fixture w/o removing it from the trailer? I have an enclosed trailer where half the 12 or so running lights are not working. But half are. It’s not simple to look at the wiring because it’s behind plywood wall.
Well, check the bulbs first if you have them. Otherwise you may have to pull the fixture and disconnect to check. The fixtures are most likely wired in parallel, making it difficult to read a bad fixture with a meter when still connected. If it's just one side, it may be a bad ground on that side. Let me know how it turns out, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors the 2 brake lights are LEDs. The rest are incandescent bulbs. On the left side brake light, only half the LEDs light up with the running lights on. However with the left turn signal all but one of the LEDs light up. It has been suggested to me that one of the wire connectors on the running lights must be loose. I know the running lights on the back top are definitely in parallel. So I'm guessing all the lights are in parallel. I wonder if I could have a low voltage issue with the trailer side connector. The trailer is only 6 years old with 200 miles, but it's been about 4 years since I had plugged it in. None of the bulbs appear to be burned out. I have soaked my trailer side connector in Diablo taco Bell sauce. That didn't seem to make a difference.
Thanks!
You are welcome, KPO.
Is it 12v AC or DC??
dc
We need to come together as a country and start up a program that will pay hunters to eradicate all deer from this land.
Deer been giving you problems lately?
But who has a 12v battery laying around?
You could actually use jumper cables off of your cars battery, KPO.
dITCH THE INTRO............
I have since shorted the intro to 29 sec, thanks.
Your into is wayyyy tooooo long
Yes, I've since shortened it to 21 sec. Thank you.
Intro unnecessary...
Sorry for that, I've shortened it since.
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you for the support!