Great diy but the front isn’t nearly as important as the rear since it’s locked in place and is not the slip joint like the rear is. Could be good to do if you do lots of wet weather riding or creek crossings just to maintain a rust free environment.
@@FLINTSTONES45 Yes. But the rear diff on a car doesn't see the moisture that these do. Every used vehicle I've bought, gets the diffs inspected and gear oil changed, along with trans, transfer case, oil, etc.
@@FLINTSTONES45 a cars rear diff is splined in the transmission and lubed by transmission fluid so there’s no need to perform this task on a vehicle. Older vehicles that had slip joints external to the trans had zerc cuttings to lube the splines.
Wonderful vid Sir and thanks much for posting. If I can make just 2 small suggestions...not improvements....just suggestions: Many struggle with completely removing the driveshaft from trans output shaft, then reassembling. If you simply slide the shaft back approx 1 inch as seen in your vid...apply spline grease with small brush...then push shaft back in fully...it is well lubricated. Also, people doing this service themselves seem to fixate on the type and amount of grease to apply to all the splines. A simple chassis grease...axle grease...red Silkolene grease..anything in that arena works fine. And apply a common-sense amount of it. Just enough to cover the splines is sufficient. And if you have the trans in 1st gear it makes shaft reassembly much easier and quicker.
This is great! My GS Rallye done nearly 25k ... I'll be doing this straight after next trip and thereafter every 10k or after serious water/mud rides! Thx.
Thank you! This may be the most professional how-to video I have watched. Background music is calming. I will be doing this soon on my (new to me) 2012 R1200R with 10K on the clock. I doubt this service has been done yet. I'm glad you covered the front of the shaft as well as the rear lube.
Hi - nice video and well explained. I used this to service my R1200. You should update the video about the torx setting of the paralever to final drive bolt. It should be 56 NM - not 145…
@@baden-baden you still haven’t done this 2 years on and this is super, super important as many owners will strip their parakeet securing bolt by tightening to 145nm. This is a very bad mistake!!!
good video I did not see any mention of the snap ring on trany side of the drive shaft. As I was cleaning the drive shaft spines i saw the inside dia. had an undercut. I then looked at an exploded view of the assembly and sure enough it showed a snap ring! It gets destroyed at dis assembly. 8$ part at max bmw.
Thanks. Just finished doing mine front and back. I would have been finished sooner but had a 30 minute tussle with the splines in the back aligning. I finally used a ratchet strap through the hole in the back differential to slowly ratchet it up and then it was easy peasy. Thanks for the video!
You seldom get problems with the front splines, it’s the rear splines that have most movement & tend to rust. The correct moly paste is recommended (use Honda paste) although probably any spline grease is better than none !
Great video - you make it look easy! I would add that one instructional hint would help - that being, you need to keep the shaft lined up so that the u-joint coming off the main drive is in the up and down orientation. Mine was not lined up and it got jammed when i backed it off - it took me quite a while to get it loose.
Hi, I must say, your a master at getting the rear splines back together. Usually takes me an age to line them up. Just one observation. The bolt you stated should be tightened to 145nm (paralever to bevel unit), I’m pretty sure that it should be 56nm. Maybe worth checking, I might be wrong. Great video though. Cheers from UK.
Great video, thank you. I also say "there you go" when I get things lined up and threading. Each one is a small victory. Great camera work and technical know how.
Hi, today i changed my r nine t gear oil and finaldrive oil and saw swingarm rubber boot cracked i was wondering for replaceing to remove all swingarm but your video show me how to replace without take off all part and go dealer pay lots of money. Thanks for the video.
Great Video. That was the easy way to do it. All the other Videos I see, they are taking the whole Swingarm out. I’m really glad I found your Video. Thanks for making these, it really helps.👍👍😁
Notice the universal joints are non serviceable with zero grease points ... thankyou BMW .... new driveshaft from BMW Motorworks UK £500 which is fully serviceable with grease points fitted as standard ... mine failed at 70,000 miles and once a year I do a full rear diff and driveshaft service religiously.
You need to put grease on the contact surfaces of the rubber boots, preferably Klüber Staburags NBU 30 PTM, this helps in mounting them and keeps the water out. Otherwise excellent job. 👍
A useful video, but one thing you might want to check, the torque setting for the bolt securing the torque arm to the final drive hub at 13.29, which you give as 145nm. From what I have been able to find out, I think it’s actually 56nm. I’ve watched other videos and I’ve notice one quotes 100nm and another 60nm. When I looked at a chart on line for the R1250GS, that is what quoted 56nm.
@@baden-baden Don’t take my word for it about it being 56nm though, do your own research, as there seems to be so much different info out there. The website I used seemed to be authentic, but it wasn’t BMWs own site, but it was the best I could find. I do think anything much over 60nm is likely to be too much though. I’d be interested to know when you find out if you agree with 56nm
Great and helpful video, thank you. Just a tiny little remark: you're using a T45 socket on the oil drain plug. Makes sense as it does the job and most people have it in their toolbox. But the actual size is a M7 Ribe socket. A size that hardly anybody has in their toolbox. 😄 This drain plug can be found not only on the GS, but on a wide range of the R and K bikes for the last 20 years or so. Other than that, just keep up the good work.
Only vid where i saw complete removal of driveshaft ... well done all the other vid are only showing half the job... whoch means i would have only done half the job myself not realizing ... well doneand thanks
I’m surprised that the splines looked completely dry when disassembled and that the U-Joints went back in completely dry. I’d think a good slathering of grease on the u-joints would help prevent corrosion and extend service the service life.
Awesome video - calm work environment and spotlessly clean. Well done - I like how you don’t gloss over the difficult parts, like re-assembly and getting the shaft to mate all the way to top of transmission spline. Question though, do you need to index the driveshaft to get it in the exact spline position in the shaft. I know years ago when removing a driveshaft of a car the mechanics would make a mark across the output shaft and the driveshaft and then line the driveshaft back into the same spline if you understand my question ? Does it matter to put the driveshaft back on the same spline position at re-assembly?
Thanks so much for your support! Yes, it is better if you can mark the shaft and put it back in the same position, avoiding future vibrations or balance problems. Sorry, I didn't mention that in this video. Best regards!
Originally we use the white waterproof rubber grease to make sure no water enters the swing arm😉 also BMW will replace the cardan axle and final drive on the 60k Service.
Я делал, но на видео не показывал, но да, всегда рекомендуется добавлять силиконовую смазку I did , but did not show it on the video, but yes is always recommended to add silicone grease.
I think things would be a little easier if you would have raised the wheel assembly up a little (with help if needed). Would help stab the spines on both ends of the front. Not to mention that the shaft would have gone in easier through the housing. Good vid overall
Do you need to mark with dot punch or pen exact position splines came off at gearbox or axle, didn't know if it would affect balance of propshaft, thanks
Thanks for the great video. I did the rear splines but the shaft would not come off... it appears to move about 2cm then stops, Very strange but thanks to your video I will try it again and use a bigger Hammer ;-)
I'm saving money to buy 1 like this, which is my dream bike, so every maintenance video you share like this is a must watch and keep! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and well done with the videos!! 👍👍 PS, can you please share what is the spray / brand you use to clean the spline after brushing it? Thank you again!
I, d be very tempted to tip a cup of engine oil in the shaft housing as I fit the lower rubber boot. Not too much but enough to splash around in there and keep it all oily
some question for the out put shaft and spline, Is it any sap ring attached there or inside the drive shaft. I saw the part book that has the snap ring on both side.
@@baden-baden Nice VID and sub now., my bike was R1200gsa LC 2016, I just bought it for a month, my problem what both splines were frozen and cannot remove even knock and heat by heat gun on front spline and output shaft. I known that never knock to much on the drive shaft which can be damaged the gearbox bearing. I will decide to cut it off when my last attempt tomorrow. If any recommend or another method to remove it please help to inform. ***This bike was long standstill for 3 year.
@@Keafearless okay, if you have a frozen shaft, I highly recommend applying some pz blast or wd40 , leave it over night and next day heat it up carefully with a torch just the junction shaft, with out damaging other seals or parts of the motorcycle, and then use a hammer or puller , that way you can get it out. Hope that helps, Good luck
Hello and ty for the videos and making me more convident to do mine, question ? what Grease do you use to lubricate splines and after how many miles u lubricated again ty
Hello, this is it and all depends how often you ride off road water crossings , I like to say every 15k miles. www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Marine-Molybdenum-Disulfide-ACC-MOLDM-GS-05/dp/B085D8KFVC thanks for watching
Front splines require periodic greasing because otherwise they may seize to the output shaft and then you'll have a difficult time separating them and risk damaging the transmission. The shaft's U-joints will eventually fail and the entire shaft then needs to be replaced.
Best instructional on that yet! Nobody else shows the front splines and I figure that's just as important.
Thank you so much!
Great diy but the front isn’t nearly as important as the rear since it’s locked in place and is not the slip joint like the rear is. Could be good to do if you do lots of wet weather riding or creek crossings just to maintain a rust free environment.
Would you do this with your car rear wheel drive aswell?
@@FLINTSTONES45 Yes. But the rear diff on a car doesn't see the moisture that these do. Every used vehicle I've bought, gets the diffs inspected and gear oil changed, along with trans, transfer case, oil, etc.
@@FLINTSTONES45 a cars rear diff is splined in the transmission and lubed by transmission fluid so there’s no need to perform this task on a vehicle.
Older vehicles that had slip joints external to the trans had zerc cuttings to lube the splines.
Wonderful vid Sir and thanks much for posting. If I can make just 2 small suggestions...not improvements....just suggestions: Many struggle with completely removing the driveshaft from trans output shaft, then reassembling. If you simply slide the shaft back approx 1 inch as seen in your vid...apply spline grease with small brush...then push shaft back in fully...it is well lubricated. Also, people doing this service themselves seem to fixate on the type and amount of grease to apply to all the splines. A simple chassis grease...axle grease...red Silkolene grease..anything in that arena works fine. And apply a common-sense amount of it. Just enough to cover the splines is sufficient. And if you have the trans in 1st gear it makes shaft reassembly much easier and quicker.
Thank you for your comment and watching my channel.
Happy New 2022
Wow, this is one of the best tutorial I have seen on RUclips!
Finally someone maintains the front splines.great job very thorough 👍
Excellent maintenance! Many owners R-series complain about rusty drive shaft, but didn't make that simple service.
The only video on this that shows the removal of the front drive boot - well done as this is super important to get right!
Thanks a bunch for watching...more videos are coming about 25k Service on a GSA .
Thanks again!!
This was the BEST video I've seen here on RUclips for lubing the final drive splines. Thank you...
Thank you for watching and support.
This is great! My GS Rallye done nearly 25k ... I'll be doing this straight after next trip and thereafter every 10k or after serious water/mud rides! Thx.
Snap On ratchets, Knipex cutters, & Milwaukee power driver. Good tools man.
Thanks !!
Thank you! This may be the most professional how-to video I have watched. Background music is calming. I will be doing this soon on my (new to me) 2012 R1200R with 10K on the clock. I doubt this service has been done yet. I'm glad you covered the front of the shaft as well as the rear lube.
Thanks so much for your kind a comments!
Excellent, and no cussing!!
Hi - nice video and well explained. I used this to service my R1200. You should update the video about the torx setting of the paralever to final drive bolt. It should be 56 NM - not 145…
Thanks , Yes I need to fix that.
@@baden-baden you still haven’t done this 2 years on and this is super, super important as many owners will strip their parakeet securing bolt by tightening to 145nm.
This is a very bad mistake!!!
good video I did not see any mention of the snap ring on trany side of the drive shaft. As I was cleaning the drive shaft spines i saw the inside dia. had an undercut. I then looked at an exploded view of the assembly and sure enough it showed a snap ring! It gets destroyed at dis assembly. 8$ part at max bmw.
Thanks. Just finished doing mine front and back. I would have been finished sooner but had a 30 minute tussle with the splines in the back aligning. I finally used a ratchet strap through the hole in the back differential to slowly ratchet it up and then it was easy peasy. Thanks for the video!
Finally, someone who serviced the front splines!
Thanks for watching !!
You seldom get problems with the front splines, it’s the rear splines that have most movement & tend to rust. The correct moly paste is recommended (use Honda paste) although probably any spline grease is better than none !
@@johnlang3233 Should be high-moly (at least 60%) grease.
Great video - you make it look easy! I would add that one instructional hint would help - that being, you need to keep the shaft lined up so that the u-joint coming off the main drive is in the up and down orientation. Mine was not lined up and it got jammed when i backed it off - it took me quite a while to get it loose.
Thank you so much for your support!
Getting ready to perform this maintenance on a 2010 GS 1200. This is a great video. Thank you for the direction & advise. GR.
Highest quality training! Well done. Thank you!
Hi, I must say, your a master at getting the rear splines back together. Usually takes me an age to line them up. Just one observation. The bolt you stated should be tightened to 145nm (paralever to bevel unit), I’m pretty sure that it should be 56nm. Maybe worth checking, I might be wrong. Great video though. Cheers from UK.
Thanks so much for your support and time to watch my video , best regards from Texas..!!
Yes, it is 56nm.
Great video, thank you. I also say "there you go" when I get things lined up and threading. Each one is a small victory. Great camera work and technical know how.
Thanks so much for your kind words and watching my videos.
Greetings!
Most complete service I have seen, thanks!
Best video on this procedure thank you I look forward to more GS maintenance videos!
Nicely done and now I’ll complete the job myself… thanks for front spline part of the video… brilliant
I got to the page by coincidence and found that you ride the same group I occasionally ride with in Houston. It is impossible to miss Bruce!
Lol...yeah Bruce is a good rider !
Hi, today i changed my r nine t gear oil and finaldrive oil and saw swingarm rubber boot cracked i was wondering for replaceing to remove all swingarm but your video show me how to replace without take off all part and go dealer pay lots of money. Thanks for the video.
Very efficient and very clean of doing a great job! Thank you for sharing.
Great Video. That was the easy way to do it. All the other Videos I see, they are taking the whole Swingarm out. I’m really glad I found your Video. Thanks for making these, it really helps.👍👍😁
Thank you, hope helps !!
Notice the universal joints are non serviceable with zero grease points ... thankyou BMW .... new driveshaft from BMW Motorworks UK £500 which is fully serviceable with grease points fitted as standard ... mine failed at 70,000 miles and once a year I do a full rear diff and driveshaft service religiously.
Hi Brother Good lesson .
When time is come definitely i use your video to lube my toy.
Thanks
You need to put grease on the contact surfaces of the rubber boots, preferably Klüber Staburags NBU 30 PTM, this helps in mounting them and keeps the water out.
Otherwise excellent job. 👍
A useful video, but one thing you might want to check, the torque setting for the bolt securing the torque arm to the final drive hub at 13.29, which you give as 145nm. From what I have been able to find out, I think it’s actually 56nm. I’ve watched other videos and I’ve notice one quotes 100nm and another 60nm. When I looked at a chart on line for the R1250GS, that is what quoted 56nm.
Thanks so much for your comment and yes , I need to fix that part.
Thanks for watching!
@@baden-baden Don’t take my word for it about it being 56nm though, do your own research, as there seems to be so much different info out there. The website I used seemed to be authentic, but it wasn’t BMWs own site, but it was the best I could find. I do think anything much over 60nm is likely to be too much though. I’d be interested to know when you find out if you agree with 56nm
Torque, paralever to bevel unit, IS for sure 56Nm. According to the Haynes manual.
Finally a really well done video congratulations
Thank you !!
Great and helpful video, thank you.
Just a tiny little remark: you're using a T45 socket on the oil drain plug.
Makes sense as it does the job and most people have it in their toolbox.
But the actual size is a M7 Ribe socket. A size that hardly anybody has in their toolbox. 😄
This drain plug can be found not only on the GS, but on a wide range of the R and K bikes for the last 20 years or so.
Other than that, just keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for your helpful comments, great suggestions too.
Happy holidays !!
Really good video!! I usually only see the rear shift spline lubrication. Well done sir and thank you.
Thank you for your comment and support!!
You make it look so easy. Well done and nicely shot video. 👍
Great vid. No messing about. Thanks!
Thanks for your support !
Wow, it looks like you've done this a few time before. Excellent video!
Great Job! BMW should do a carbon fiber shaft and housing.
Nice and tidy clean work, well done.
great video ... just a tip use a paint brush to apply grease on spline. and a jack to hold final drive can help lifting holding ... etc
Thanx, was looking for this for taking the whole shaft out. Good work / video 👌
Perfect video brother. Great relaxing music, so clean and thorough. Well done 👍
Great video my friend 👌
I agree the front is important
Great video!
Only vid where i saw complete removal of driveshaft ... well done all the other vid are only showing half the job... whoch means i would have only done half the job myself not realizing ... well doneand thanks
I’m surprised that the splines looked completely dry when disassembled and that the U-Joints went back in completely dry. I’d think a good slathering of grease on the u-joints would help prevent corrosion and extend service the service life.
Awesome video - calm work environment and spotlessly clean. Well done - I like how you don’t gloss over the difficult parts, like re-assembly and getting the shaft to mate all the way to top of transmission spline. Question though, do you need to index the driveshaft to get it in the exact spline position in the shaft. I know years ago when removing a driveshaft of a car the mechanics would make a mark across the output shaft and the driveshaft and then line the driveshaft back into the same spline if you understand my question ? Does it matter to put the driveshaft back on the same spline position at re-assembly?
Thanks so much for your support!
Yes, it is better if you can mark the shaft and put it back in the same position, avoiding future vibrations or balance problems.
Sorry, I didn't mention that in this video.
Best regards!
@@baden-baden read that too late!!
BMW done mine on a recall then forget to fill it with diff oil .unless.. Nice handy video thanks
Great service.
Thanks for watching!
great video, cheers.
Nice one mate good job.
Keep it up.
From the Land of OZ
Hello from France. Very good video. Thanks for youre professionnalism
Thanks so much for your support. Best regards from Texas, USA
Excellent presentation
Well done!Without obnoxious background music.If FD oil is still good,put earplug into filling hole.
Well done! Very informational!
Thank you very much for your support and time to watch my clips..!!
Great video
Which Molly grease do you use on the splines.
Thanks for a really great tutorial video. Very well explained. What grease is used for the shaft splines?
Thanks for watching.
I used full synthetic grease got it at parts store.
You make it look so easy
Great video and job! Thx for sharing!
What about the C clip on transmission spline? Was it there or not?
Fantastic job!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for the info and it’s a huge help for me thanks
Excellent, thank you :)
Thanks for sharing 😎🏍️💨💨💨💨👍🏻🇨🇦
Ottimo video!
Great video!
Thank you very much ..!!
Thnx buddy . I am gonna maintain my final drive tomorrow
Originally we use the white waterproof rubber grease to make sure no water enters the swing arm😉 also BMW will replace the cardan axle and final drive on the 60k Service.
Excellent video
Thank you for watching!!
Hi, thanks for the video - super imformative. Do you have recommended brands on the different lubricants you use?
Great tutorial, thx!
Perfect, well done
brill vid i am a new owner of a bmw just subscribed cos i am sure i will need it 😁
Great bikes, I own BMW 40 yrs ago and I love it.
Well done...very good video
Отличный ролик, все аккуратно сделано, спасибо большое!!! Но почему kluber на гофры не нанёс? 🤔🤔🤔😉😉😉🤣🤣🤣
Я делал, но на видео не показывал, но да, всегда рекомендуется добавлять силиконовую смазку
I did , but did not show it on the video, but yes is always recommended to add silicone grease.
I think things would be a little easier if you would have raised the wheel assembly up a little (with help if needed). Would help stab the spines on both ends of the front.
Not to mention that the shaft would have gone in easier through the housing.
Good vid overall
10:05 Is is better to apply grease between the rubber and the swingarm before you put the rubber in place?
Awesome video, thank you!
Do you need to mark with dot punch or pen exact position splines came off at gearbox or axle, didn't know if it would affect balance of propshaft, thanks
Is highly recommended yes , better to mark it for balance purposes.
Thanks
Important maintenance for BMW R1200GS. Great video.
Thank you so much for your comment!!
Thanks for the great video. I did the rear splines but the shaft would not come off... it appears to move about 2cm then stops, Very strange but thanks to your video I will try it again and use a bigger Hammer ;-)
Best I've seen 👍👍
Great video
I'm saving money to buy 1 like this, which is my dream bike, so every maintenance video you share like this is a must watch and keep! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and well done with the videos!! 👍👍
PS, can you please share what is the spray / brand you use to clean the spline after brushing it? Thank you again!
Thanks so much for your support and patience to watch my videos.
Great motorcycles honestly!!
I will send you the link about the cleaner
@@baden-baden thank you, really appreciated!
I, d be very tempted to tip a cup of engine oil in the shaft housing as I fit the lower rubber boot. Not too much but enough to splash around in there and keep it all oily
Thanks !
Saint Charbel all the way!!
@@alfred2g thanks !
Thank you
some question for the out put shaft and spline, Is it any sap ring attached there or inside the drive shaft. I saw the part book that has the snap ring on both side.
Hi,
In this case, any lock rings at all, honestly not sure if previous models .
Thanks for watching!
@@baden-baden Nice VID and sub now., my bike was R1200gsa LC 2016, I just bought it for a month, my problem what both splines were frozen and cannot remove even knock and heat by heat gun on front spline and output shaft. I known that never knock to much on the drive shaft which can be damaged the gearbox bearing. I will decide to cut it off when my last attempt tomorrow. If any recommend or another method to remove it please help to inform. ***This bike was long standstill for 3 year.
@@Keafearless okay, if you have a frozen shaft, I highly recommend applying some pz blast or wd40 , leave it over night and next day heat it up carefully with a torch just the junction shaft, with out damaging other seals or parts of the motorcycle, and then use a hammer or puller , that way you can get it out.
Hope that helps, Good luck
@@baden-baden I will try to morrow and will let you know the result.
Brilliant thank you
Thanx, great video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you Jim!
Thank you for the effort 👍
Great video mate, i need someone to do this to my bike
Great GREAT vid. Thx
Ευχαριστώ!
Hello and ty for the videos and making me more convident to do mine, question ? what Grease do you use to lubricate splines and after how many miles u lubricated again ty
Hello,
this is it and all depends how often you ride off road water crossings , I like to say every 15k miles.
www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Marine-Molybdenum-Disulfide-ACC-MOLDM-GS-05/dp/B085D8KFVC
thanks for watching
@@baden-baden thanks for the reply
The advantage of this is?? Does the shaft slide on the splines during suspension travel??
Front splines require periodic greasing because otherwise they may seize to the output shaft and then you'll have a difficult time separating them and risk damaging the transmission. The shaft's U-joints will eventually fail and the entire shaft then needs to be replaced.
Yes
My nickname in college was “little bungee” 😊
Great video! Q : Why is it required to drain the FD gear oil to check the spline? It seems like this is a sealed capsule
Great point! , I just drained because do not like spill oil all over ABS , shaft etc