My lower cable had snapped. Used a common bicycle cable to replace it. Had to slightly file down the grommet which took minutes. Cut cable to length then clamped the loose end underneath the nut that holds everything in place. Reset engine light with £15 code reader from Amazon. So far, so good👌
When tightening or removing the nut, the threaded shaft has two flat sides to accommodate a wrench. That way you don't have to put a wrench on the flimsy metal tab.
Hey man! Great guide! I'm about to go check out a used d675 so it definitely helped listening to what "the servo motor turning over" actually sounded like! I especially liked the still frames with the arrows to each part
your video was great but stopped right where I needed it to continue. Like you, my actuator cable snapped. When replacing, where is the arrow on the valve supposed to be at idle? Is there a tutorial on installing?
+Corey Scriver Sorry, the reason I didn't include it in the video is because I never replaced it. I leave my valve open all the time. When the bike is off, the valve is open (in the same position as the video) and because the valve doesn't open until 4000+ rpms, it should be in the opposite position when the bike is idling. I hope this helps.
@@nobodynobody3903 I bought something called a Servo Buddy, which plugs into the servo motor plug and fools the ecu to think the servo motor is still there. On certain older models, this can also be turned off in the ecu via TuneECU software.
Couple comments and questions: 1. you're not really working the grease in well on the cable side, and do you realize there's a bushing on the opposite side of the header? do you have any idea how to work grease into that part? it's welded shut... 2. it looks like you horribly cross threaded the EXBV shaft, i almost did it as well. unless the threads only go down so far on yours. it's supposed to have endplay. universal i think is about 1.5-2.0mm 3. you'd be wise to copper grease your cables, clock spring and everything judging by your corrosion on a new bike, maybe you get rock salt? maybe that's why it frayed in the first place. mine has 3k miles on it and is starting to frey in a rain free environment. 4. you completely skipped over the alignment procedure, where most of us have trouble.
This is the best video that I found in youtube, Thanks a lot.
My lower cable had snapped.
Used a common bicycle cable to replace it.
Had to slightly file down the grommet which took minutes.
Cut cable to length then clamped the loose end underneath the nut that holds everything in place.
Reset engine light with £15 code reader from Amazon.
So far, so good👌
When tightening or removing the nut, the threaded shaft has two flat sides to accommodate a wrench. That way you don't have to put a wrench on the flimsy metal tab.
Service manual I have says 12Nm on the cover plate bolts. Just putting that out there. Great vid
and 1.5nm on the adjuster barrels
Great video! Thanks for sharing
Quality instruction bravo!
Thanks so much for this
You're welcome!
Hey man! Great guide! I'm about to go check out a used d675 so it definitely helped listening to what "the servo motor turning over" actually sounded like! I especially liked the still frames with the arrows to each part
Thanks for the feedback! really appreciate it. Glad I could help.
your video was great but stopped right where I needed it to continue. Like you, my actuator cable snapped. When replacing, where is the arrow on the valve supposed to be at idle? Is there a tutorial on installing?
+Corey Scriver Sorry, the reason I didn't include it in the video is because I never replaced it. I leave my valve open all the time. When the bike is off, the valve is open (in the same position as the video) and because the valve doesn't open until 4000+ rpms, it should be in the opposite position when the bike is idling. I hope this helps.
@@howtomoto And your Check Engine Light is not on?😅
@@nobodynobody3903 I bought something called a Servo Buddy, which plugs into the servo motor plug and fools the ecu to think the servo motor is still there. On certain older models, this can also be turned off in the ecu via TuneECU software.
nice spanner mate.
Cool❤
Couple comments and questions:
1. you're not really working the grease in well on the cable side, and do you realize there's a bushing on the opposite side of the header? do you have any idea how to work grease into that part? it's welded shut...
2. it looks like you horribly cross threaded the EXBV shaft, i almost did it as well. unless the threads only go down so far on yours. it's supposed to have endplay. universal i think is about 1.5-2.0mm
3. you'd be wise to copper grease your cables, clock spring and everything judging by your corrosion on a new bike, maybe you get rock salt? maybe that's why it frayed in the first place. mine has 3k miles on it and is starting to frey in a rain free environment.
4. you completely skipped over the alignment procedure, where most of us have trouble.
why would they desige the valve for....like car straight pipe from Decat all the way to exhaust can.......
Hey is anyone Still around to help me out my wire broke where that is connected to Is there a way u can fix it ?
I was thinking about just doing a delete for it since I have a aftermarket anyway
Check the comments, there was one guy who replaced it with a bike brake wire.
But you didn’t even take the valve out of the exhaust pipe. Why?
Didn't really repair anything! We all have a spanner like that!.. Still great to see the part of the assembly making all the noise on startup.
A simple guide to repairing a seized exhaust valve in a Triumph Daytona 675, years 2006 to 2012.
Is it bad running on a broken exup valve?
squid??
Great video! Thanks for sharing