So glad you recorded bro I just found my head was blown was billowing white smoke also had a power steering line blow out and thought it was burning off it was everywhere anyways so glad I found you
Right on James! I’m glad you got it on! It was a long time coming, but it’s great to see the hardest part of the job installed and out of the way. Sorry the camera was giving you problems. That sucks, and it’s another reason why I hate GoPros!🤣 Also that eye-bolt you threaded in to help get the head on was pure genius. I’ll definitely be remembering that.👍
Thanks Cody..oh man...Gopro isnt on my good side right now lol, hoping that it can earn my trust back this week. I was so irritated i didnt show the rear eye bolt lol but doing that made for a great spot to actually have grip.
garrett chiodo man I was upset at that camera! After over thinking that cylinder head for a couple weeks and letting my back heal up a bit it wasn’t too bad (wasn’t easy for me either though😂) it was just nerve racking knowing that’s the one chance and you have to make sure those surfaces are cleaned, junk out of the cylinders and line it up right so you don’t rub the gasket too bad or move it. I’d almost think about putting the t-stat housing on first but it may just be more obstacle trying to handle that heavy thing. This was all VERY new to me, thank God for those Haynes and chilton manuals!
I saw that you used new push rods. I was planning on using the old ones. Then I decided to go with remanufactured head. What convinced you to change to new push rods on your project? Did you stay with standard size? What do you other guys think? The video you did has been a great help for me. Thanks
So the rule of thumb I read was to replace them if a new head (or remaned) was installed. Check the lifters while it's open to see if theres excessive wear on top (I just used a flashlight and looked at them) mine were cupped from wear but nothing needing replacement. Hard to remember but I think the repair manual also said to change the pushrods and just inspect the rockers as they could be reused unless really worn out (my rockers were still good) ...my final reason to swap was because they were only $1.24 each 🤣 so I just pulled the trigger. Since no after market heads or parts were used I stayed with the stock size with a "melling" brand part number MPR306. It's a good brand and used with a lot of stock repairs on misc parts so I knew it would be a safe bet to buy them. I appreciate ya watching me fumble through this, I'm by no means a mechanic but there just wasnt enough 300 straight 6 videos that helped so I gave her a go for RUclips. 16 videos later the truck runs great and gets about 16.8 to 17 mpg now which blew me away! Thank you so much for watching and commenting it means a lot after all this work that went into it. **edit** sorry Phillip, I thought this you were another new sub when I read this at work today brother, I of course appreciate the view and comment but didn’t mean to forget we had already been speaking, my apologies!
It sucks that you lost some footage but it happens buddy 😔. I've been having problems already with my new GoPro. Not a fan of their products anymore. Glad to see the progress on your truck though 😃👍. Love the videos and cant wait for more my friend.
yea not exactly happy with them at the moment. might start researching what other camera to use when it comes time because we both know the life expectancy of these cameras isnt very long lol. Thanks ya Zane, im about to watch your newest upload..
Your nearly done mate. Anything that's got something to do with oil always a good idea to put oil on it so on first start up it's not dry. Just mean top and bottom of your push rods.
I agree. I actually pulled and torqued those rocker arms 4 times because i was freaked out about the cheapo torque wrench, i ended up coating the pushrods and oiled the top of the lifters with a little dab of 10w30 its just edited out. i worried i wasn't supposed to but i figured it couldn't hurt. the rest will get coated when i refill the 6 quarts before start up.
metal art yep...believe me I’m stressing it struggling to turn over when it comes time. Hopefully I did this right otherwise expect another series of a rebuild on the 4.9 🤣🤣🤣
@@3rdcoastobs467 I think you'll be fine. You could prime the engine before firing it up. Just pull the fuel pump relay and let it build pressure on the dash gauge, first.
Still full, it’s been a while so foggy memory But I think the drain tool was problematic to get here in time to finish, and honestly I just went by the book and it never mentioned doing it. I read a few articles about it and tossed the idea around but by that point I just rolled with torqued rockers on full lifters. I also debated buying new lifters but the costs were adding up so they stayed in my “buy it later cart”. Again, just a shade tree guy trying to keep the old girl running and filmed what I could to put on here. If I messed up (which I hope I didn’t) it’s gonna burn me later for sure. Trucks been solid though since the rebuild and even pushed my gas mileage up from 11.8-12.3 (average) to 16.7-17.1 through 15 tanks of gas so far which I think is crazy! Thanks for checking it out man, let me know your thoughts, did I mess it up?
😂 don’t remind me brother, I was f’ing mad when I was finished cussing a storm, broke my stool, threw tools....then editing everything out for the video. I was pissed! I tried my best to show the handles I rigged up, but I was still disappointed. If it wasn’t for my slipped disc putting the head on wouldn’t have been so bad but that pain at the time made my left arm feel like I was probed in the shoulder and middle back and made my fingers numb. It was basically line her up and slowly lower it down onto the guide pins being extra careful not to slide any direction which would have ruined the gasket instantly.
Hey also....What part of the country are you from? I’m about we days from FINALLY getting a day off and trying to line up videos and restoration on my lightning. I took a quick glance inside and it’s going to be a project that I’m not looking forward to at all but the part hunt starts soon. I’d rather replace with old original stuff instead of LMR or LMC parts when I can.
@@3rdcoastobs467 well I moved to Little Rock about a year ago. And been doing modifications on this truck since. It's been a solid month since I pulled the head. Problem is I can't ever get a day off myself.
My head is warped over 15 thousands. Was hoping it was just the gasket blown and I could work with it, low budget, but no, no. I did run it hot with no doubt ! Gonna cost me mo money !! Total Reman head from O'Reilly, here , $355 plus tax. Resurface only from local machine shop, $80 plus tax. All else looks good so far and if it passes the last couple of inspections and tests, I'm rolling with the resurfacing and doing the valve stem seals myself...might know more tomorrow, lol. Good job on yours, still enjoying it and interested to see the outcome. Peace Man.
Stucknarutt damn that’s too bad brother, but that’s not too bad on the machine work at all! I didn’t trust the shops locally to me so I just went with the reman’ed. Rock auto was $380 but you get $125 back on the core and that includes return shipping cost back to them so your at $255 plus shipping to your home and it comes pretty quick..I think total it was $270...that Includes new valves and springs. My rockers were all good so I just cleaned them up and bolted back in. I wasn’t ready to tackle the valve stems yet 😂 this is such a big project to me already I’m nervous about how it will turn out. I should get a lot done this week, I took off a mini vacation in prep for my upcoming 2 month of no days off turnaround at the refinery. Hoping by Thursday or Friday I’m bolted up and hopefully running again.
3rd Coast OBS You ain't never lied when you say "this is such a big project" !! Glad to hear you say that and makes me chuckle because it's the same way I feel ! It's like "The Saga That Continues" to me now at this point, LOL. Thanks for sharing the info, I was curious about costs where you are. We didn't even talk core charge when I priced. Well good luck man and may The Internal Combustion Engine Gods be with you and us !
Hey man what brands were the gaskets you used? Also what head/other parts brands did you go with? Thanks in advance for the vids they will surely help me when i tackle my Ford 4.9l
Just wondering before you tightened down the rockers did you have to set the lash to zero ? I know they do it with roller rockers but I'm not sure about non roller rockers.
Watching 2 of these I've determined IF I have to do this I will cut some heads off some head bolts & cut a slot in one end to insert in the block to use as guides or get some all thread rods, THEN, use my cherry picker to lower the head to the alignment studs, you youngsters make my back hurt
Honestly that's what made this such a hard job where I tried to fab up stuff to lift it out. I had (still have) bad back problems from a slipped disc in my neck and middle back causing numb fingers and shooting pains. This head is a beast but just so awkward when you've lost mobility. Luckily with the eye bolts creating a handle it made it semi manageable and the guide pins helped me lower it down without messing up the gasket...just wish the dang camera hadn't overheated and missed it.
Hello, nice video, I also need to replace the head on an industrial Ford 300, but I only found heads for truck’a versions. Do you know if they are compatible?
My guy says probably not but I have no idea on the industrial model. It could also be the exact same since I would think the design should be basically identical. What is the motor in currently?
@@3rdcoastobs467 I can tell you that many spares like the water pump, governor or rocker arms are the same. The motor is currently direct-coupled to a gas compressor and it has been converted to NG too. The reason why I didn´t purchased a head is because according to my manual the head P/N is F2JE-6009-AA, we´ve lost the plate of the engine and cast number is illegible on the head.
When tightening the rockers to tourque did you do it in firing sequence and rollover the crankshaft to make sure each valve was tightened when at the top so least amount of tension is on the springs when you do that? is that necessary? new and need to do a valve adjustment to my 95 300 i6
Man I'm totally amateur and followed the books instructions. It just said tighten and torque and didnt mention anything else. I just went down the line and never rotated the crank at all. Hoping it was ok but the truck is fine still to this day without issues🤞. Gets 17mpg and is still my daily driver. Probably 3k miles since I did this job.
Rockauto had them. They send you a hard plastic case with the refurbished head. Then you send your old head back and get the core $ returned to your account. Think it was around 275-300 when I bought mine after they refunded the core money ($600 when you buy it)
How many new words did you invent when you found out you weren't recording? I've done it more times than I care to admit myself... It's got to be a great feeling to be on the downhill slide though. Great video!
oh man, it sounded like a Martin Scorsese movie out there, i was pissed. Especially on what i thought was the MOST important part of the project lol! Thanks Jason.
I got 99% of my parts including cylinder head from rockauto . Com it helped with ask the boys and pieces I'd need like gaskets, pushrods and bolts. Everything else was spur of the moment stuff from O'Reillys
thats true steve, bright side is its on the engine and i can start to slap parts on her. These glitches the gopros have are crazy, and its just like people dont mind them. Over heating, non existant battery life, no connection to wifi and freezing up...oh well nothing i can do about it now lol.
I'll be honest with you, I don't remember. I'm 99.9% sure I didn't though. I'd have to look back at my book to see if it said to and I dont believe it did.
Why do you think they were set wrong? I remember loosening and retorquing them about 5 times myself off camera. I was super worried I would do it wrong but luckily I've had no problems since the video.
I would love one! my wish list includes a 99-04 lightning, 92-96 bronco, 89-93 Foxbody and some variation of an 92-96 F150...space isnt to bad, getting the blessing to buy them though...thats a different story lol. ***edit because I hit post on accident***And I’ve read the standard is so much more durable than the E4OD, I’ve already have issues in my after I bought it. Fingers crossed it is fixed. If the price is right you can always find the room to bring it home 😂
17-23FtLbs listed in my book. BUT I may have just been lucky since I didnt really dig into anything beyond the head I just torqued and moved on with no issues. I'll copy and paste instructions from a forum I read as well just in case your deep into rebuild (see below) : 1º Rotate crankshaft, using 15/16" socket and bar; untill distributor Rotor point directly to one of the spark plug cables tip on distributor cap. 2º Remove valve cover, then compress lifter for the cilinder pointed by rotor, then check gap betwen valve and rocker (Intake and exhaust). Should be betwen 0.125 - 0.175" 3º Repeat 1 and 2 for the remaining cylinders. If any gap is out of specification, get service pushrods longer or shorter as requiered. Be sure the rocker nut is tight to 17 - 23 Ft-Lb beffore any gap check. If no compresion tool is available, you can remove lifter, disassembly, remove oil inside lifter, then re-assembly - install. More handlabor, less money requiered...
No problem brother. I had a Chilton and Haynes book I kept referring to and those things sometimes had big differences in specs and procedures. I hope your rebuild goes smooth! Thanks for watching
😂😂It's a contractor logo that one of the guys out at the plant I work at, it says repcon ....**edit** please ignore the heart emoji from earlier with a bear, that was meant for my daughter! I read your user name wrong. I feel like a idiot.
Oh and the scan bar code, I think its because there are 2 options for the head one with smog hole one without plus I think it cut down on mistakes while being pulled from the shelf. That's the only thing I can thing of.
I actually work at a oil refinery in texas city.I bought mine from rockauto.com already machined and ready to put in (I think they get them from lkq), I like that website they have a good breakdown of parts for whatever year or model you have and have recommended parts you'll need for the job (gaskets,bolts, pushrods). They ship it fedex in a little case that you return your damaged head back for the core refund. I think if I remember correctly it was $500 but once they got my core back they refunded $200 back. I'm very happy with it so far, still drive the truck daily to work and back everyday. Its held up well for me and was cheaper and easier than sourcing a local machine shop and replacing the valves and whatnot.
Bullet proof motor in my opinion and cheap to replace parts but we ain't winning in races🤣. The 1971 is a beautiful year, I love those body styles! Seen a lot of coyote swaps in the single cab short (and long) beds but it's tough coughing up min 20k to do it!
It’s a tough task but without worrying about filming and stuff it’s probably possible in a weekend (if you have the parts ready) good luck with the job brother!
So glad you recorded bro I just found my head was blown was billowing white smoke also had a power steering line blow out and thought it was burning off it was everywhere anyways so glad I found you
Awesome that I can come back here for references since I’m breaking down same job. If this video disappears I’m screwed. Lol
Unless liberal RUclips bans me I'm not going anywhere brother 🤣
Right on James! I’m glad you got it on! It was a long time coming, but it’s great to see the hardest part of the job installed and out of the way. Sorry the camera was giving you problems. That sucks, and it’s another reason why I hate GoPros!🤣 Also that eye-bolt you threaded in to help get the head on was pure genius. I’ll definitely be remembering that.👍
Thanks Cody..oh man...Gopro isnt on my good side right now lol, hoping that it can earn my trust back this week. I was so irritated i didnt show the rear eye bolt lol but doing that made for a great spot to actually have grip.
im glad you explained the eye bolt.. im getting ready to install my head too.but its ok you missed the money shot
garrett chiodo man I was upset at that camera! After over thinking that cylinder head for a couple weeks and letting my back heal up a bit it wasn’t too bad (wasn’t easy for me either though😂) it was just nerve racking knowing that’s the one chance and you have to make sure those surfaces are cleaned, junk out of the cylinders and line it up right so you don’t rub the gasket too bad or move it. I’d almost think about putting the t-stat housing on first but it may just be more obstacle trying to handle that heavy thing. This was all VERY new to me, thank God for those Haynes and chilton manuals!
Video helped a lot for my head and rocker arms. Thanks for the details
I'm glad it could help brother!
Very entertaining to watch fun personalitie. Hope for more in 24
I saw that you used new push rods. I was planning on using the old ones. Then I decided to go with remanufactured head. What convinced you to change to new push rods on your project? Did you stay with standard size? What do you other guys think?
The video you did has been a great help for me.
Thanks
So the rule of thumb I read was to replace them if a new head (or remaned) was installed. Check the lifters while it's open to see if theres excessive wear on top (I just used a flashlight and looked at them) mine were cupped from wear but nothing needing replacement. Hard to remember but I think the repair manual also said to change the pushrods and just inspect the rockers as they could be reused unless really worn out (my rockers were still good) ...my final reason to swap was because they were only $1.24 each 🤣 so I just pulled the trigger. Since no after market heads or parts were used I stayed with the stock size with a "melling" brand part number MPR306. It's a good brand and used with a lot of stock repairs on misc parts so I knew it would be a safe bet to buy them. I appreciate ya watching me fumble through this, I'm by no means a mechanic but there just wasnt enough 300 straight 6 videos that helped so I gave her a go for RUclips. 16 videos later the truck runs great and gets about 16.8 to 17 mpg now which blew me away! Thank you so much for watching and commenting it means a lot after all this work that went into it. **edit** sorry Phillip, I thought this you were another new sub when I read this at work today brother, I of course appreciate the view and comment but didn’t mean to forget we had already been speaking, my apologies!
Is there no rocker / pushrod adjustment?
It sucks that you lost some footage but it happens buddy 😔. I've been having problems already with my new GoPro. Not a fan of their products anymore. Glad to see the progress on your truck though 😃👍. Love the videos and cant wait for more my friend.
yea not exactly happy with them at the moment. might start researching what other camera to use when it comes time because we both know the life expectancy of these cameras isnt very long lol. Thanks ya Zane, im about to watch your newest upload..
@@3rdcoastobs467 true. I've been doing some research already. 🤔 Thanks James 🙂👍
Your nearly done mate. Anything that's got something to do with oil always a good idea to put oil on it so on first start up it's not dry. Just mean top and bottom of your push rods.
I agree. I actually pulled and torqued those rocker arms 4 times because i was freaked out about the cheapo torque wrench, i ended up coating the pushrods and oiled the top of the lifters with a little dab of 10w30 its just edited out. i worried i wasn't supposed to but i figured it couldn't hurt. the rest will get coated when i refill the 6 quarts before start up.
Depending on where the cam is it will hold the lifters up and will make it harder to do the bolts up u got to wait for the lifters to compress.
metal art yep...believe me I’m stressing it struggling to turn over when it comes time. Hopefully I did this right otherwise expect another series of a rebuild on the 4.9 🤣🤣🤣
@@3rdcoastobs467 I think you'll be fine. You could prime the engine before firing it up. Just pull the fuel pump relay and let it build pressure on the dash gauge, first.
I'm going to assume the lifters were still full of oil...or did you bleed them? Before you torqued the rockers ??
Still full, it’s been a while so foggy memory But I think the drain tool was problematic to get here in time to finish, and honestly I just went by the book and it never mentioned doing it. I read a few articles about it and tossed the idea around but by that point I just rolled with torqued rockers on full lifters. I also debated buying new lifters but the costs were adding up so they stayed in my “buy it later cart”. Again, just a shade tree guy trying to keep the old girl running and filmed what I could to put on here. If I messed up (which I hope I didn’t) it’s gonna burn me later for sure. Trucks been solid though since the rebuild and even pushed my gas mileage up from 11.8-12.3 (average) to 16.7-17.1 through 15 tanks of gas so far which I think is crazy! Thanks for checking it out man, let me know your thoughts, did I mess it up?
Good video well done
can you put that head on a ford 240 6l engine
Well I'm ready to throw my new head in. And really was looking forward to seeing it go on lol
😂 don’t remind me brother, I was f’ing mad when I was finished cussing a storm, broke my stool, threw tools....then editing everything out for the video. I was pissed! I tried my best to show the handles I rigged up, but I was still disappointed. If it wasn’t for my slipped disc putting the head on wouldn’t have been so bad but that pain at the time made my left arm feel like I was probed in the shoulder and middle back and made my fingers numb. It was basically line her up and slowly lower it down onto the guide pins being extra careful not to slide any direction which would have ruined the gasket instantly.
Hey also....What part of the country are you from? I’m about we days from FINALLY getting a day off and trying to line up videos and restoration on my lightning. I took a quick glance inside and it’s going to be a project that I’m not looking forward to at all but the part hunt starts soon. I’d rather replace with old original stuff instead of LMR or LMC parts when I can.
@@3rdcoastobs467 well I moved to Little Rock about a year ago. And been doing modifications on this truck since. It's been a solid month since I pulled the head. Problem is I can't ever get a day off myself.
Need to hit me up on fb so you can see all my mods. It won't let me show on here
I would. Ut I dropped fb, ig, s snapchat in 2017...too many toxic people on there brother. I'll try to look it up though somehow.
My head is warped over 15 thousands. Was hoping it was just the gasket blown and I could work with it, low budget, but no, no. I did run it hot with no doubt ! Gonna cost me mo money !! Total Reman head from O'Reilly, here , $355 plus tax. Resurface only from local machine shop, $80 plus tax. All else looks good so far and if it passes the last couple of inspections and tests, I'm rolling with the resurfacing and doing the valve stem seals myself...might know more tomorrow, lol. Good job on yours, still enjoying it and interested to see the outcome. Peace Man.
Stucknarutt damn that’s too bad brother, but that’s not too bad on the machine work at all! I didn’t trust the shops locally to me so I just went with the reman’ed. Rock auto was $380 but you get $125 back on the core and that includes return shipping cost back to them so your at $255 plus shipping to your home and it comes pretty quick..I think total it was $270...that Includes new valves and springs. My rockers were all good so I just cleaned them up and bolted back in. I wasn’t ready to tackle the valve stems yet 😂 this is such a big project to me already I’m nervous about how it will turn out. I should get a lot done this week, I took off a mini vacation in prep for my upcoming 2 month of no days off turnaround at the refinery. Hoping by Thursday or Friday I’m bolted up and hopefully running again.
3rd Coast OBS You ain't never lied when you say "this is such a big project" !! Glad to hear you say that and makes me chuckle because it's the same way I feel ! It's like "The Saga That Continues" to me now at this point, LOL. Thanks for sharing the info, I was curious about costs where you are. We didn't even talk core charge when I priced. Well good luck man and may The Internal Combustion Engine Gods be with you and us !
Hey man what brands were the gaskets you used? Also what head/other parts brands did you go with? Thanks in advance for the vids they will surely help me when i tackle my Ford 4.9l
Just wondering before you tightened down the rockers did you have to set the lash to zero ? I know they do it with roller rockers but I'm not sure about non roller rockers.
Great video, sorry your camera stopped, looks like it all worked out though:)
Louise Johnson 😘😘
Parabola??!! Nice
Good Job Bro!👍🏼
Thanks brother! Appreciate that.
Watching 2 of these I've determined IF I have to do this I will cut some heads off some head bolts & cut a slot in one end to insert in the block to use as guides or get some all thread rods, THEN, use my cherry picker to lower the head to the alignment studs, you youngsters make my back hurt
Honestly that's what made this such a hard job where I tried to fab up stuff to lift it out. I had (still have) bad back problems from a slipped disc in my neck and middle back causing numb fingers and shooting pains. This head is a beast but just so awkward when you've lost mobility. Luckily with the eye bolts creating a handle it made it semi manageable and the guide pins helped me lower it down without messing up the gasket...just wish the dang camera hadn't overheated and missed it.
Hello, nice video, I also need to replace the head on an industrial Ford 300, but I only found heads for truck’a versions. Do you know if they are compatible?
My guy says probably not but I have no idea on the industrial model. It could also be the exact same since I would think the design should be basically identical. What is the motor in currently?
@@3rdcoastobs467 I can tell you that many spares like the water pump, governor or rocker arms are the same. The motor is currently direct-coupled to a gas compressor and it has been converted to NG too. The reason why I didn´t purchased a head is because according to my manual the head P/N is F2JE-6009-AA, we´ve lost the plate of the engine and cast number is illegible on the head.
When tightening the rockers to tourque did you do it in firing sequence and rollover the crankshaft to make sure each valve was tightened when at the top so least amount of tension is on the springs when you do that? is that necessary? new and need to do a valve adjustment to my 95 300 i6
Man I'm totally amateur and followed the books instructions. It just said tighten and torque and didnt mention anything else. I just went down the line and never rotated the crank at all. Hoping it was ok but the truck is fine still to this day without issues🤞. Gets 17mpg and is still my daily driver. Probably 3k miles since I did this job.
what’s the spec on the rocker arms?
Hey bro, where you buy you new cylinder head?
Rockauto had them. They send you a hard plastic case with the refurbished head. Then you send your old head back and get the core $ returned to your account. Think it was around 275-300 when I bought mine after they refunded the core money ($600 when you buy it)
How many new words did you invent when you found out you weren't recording? I've done it more times than I care to admit myself... It's got to be a great feeling to be on the downhill slide though. Great video!
oh man, it sounded like a Martin Scorsese movie out there, i was pissed. Especially on what i thought was the MOST important part of the project lol! Thanks Jason.
Helped a lot thanks bud
Glad it did brother, thank ya for watching and taking the time to comment I really appreciate it.
Hello, where to buy news this part block motor? Please help. Thank you.
I bought the cylinder head and all the miscellaneous parts and pieces from Rockauto . Com
Do you work for the company whos hat you are wearing? I do.
No sir, just a hat they game me. I work at a refinery so I end up with lots of company hats🤣
good video man!!
Thanks man I appreciate that, thank you for watching
What did you use to clean your head?
Where you you get your cylinder head and parts from?
I got 99% of my parts including cylinder head from rockauto . Com it helped with ask the boys and pieces I'd need like gaskets, pushrods and bolts. Everything else was spur of the moment stuff from O'Reillys
That's a bummer about the Gopro going awol. Ive not been too impressed by the one I have. At least its all down hill from here though.
thats true steve, bright side is its on the engine and i can start to slap parts on her. These glitches the gopros have are crazy, and its just like people dont mind them. Over heating, non existant battery life, no connection to wifi and freezing up...oh well nothing i can do about it now lol.
Where do you get the head plugs for the old efi
Sorry such a late reply to your question, which plugs are ya talking about though? The threaded plugs?
@@3rdcoastobs467 yes sir I ended finding them thanks for getting back though.
Did you set the engine to tdc before torquing rockers?
I'll be honest with you, I don't remember. I'm 99.9% sure I didn't though. I'd have to look back at my book to see if it said to and I dont believe it did.
@@3rdcoastobs467 thanks. I’m doing the same right now on a 96 and think I set them wrong. Pulling the intake tomorrow to re-set
Why do you think they were set wrong? I remember loosening and retorquing them about 5 times myself off camera. I was super worried I would do it wrong but luckily I've had no problems since the video.
I’m woukdnt start and had a tight spot. Turnout out I had the wires off one nipple on the cap. Book had it listed weird.
If i can find a spot to park it I might buy a 92 f150 4.9 4x4 5 speed
I would love one! my wish list includes a 99-04 lightning, 92-96 bronco, 89-93 Foxbody and some variation of an 92-96 F150...space isnt to bad, getting the blessing to buy them though...thats a different story lol. ***edit because I hit post on accident***And I’ve read the standard is so much more durable than the E4OD, I’ve already have issues in my after I bought it. Fingers crossed it is fixed. If the price is right you can always find the room to bring it home 😂
What was the torque spec for the rockers?
17-23FtLbs listed in my book. BUT I may have just been lucky since I didnt really dig into anything beyond the head I just torqued and moved on with no issues. I'll copy and paste instructions from a forum I read as well just in case your deep into rebuild (see below) :
1º Rotate crankshaft, using 15/16" socket and bar; untill distributor Rotor point directly to one of the spark plug cables tip on distributor cap.
2º Remove valve cover, then compress lifter for the cilinder pointed by rotor, then check gap betwen valve and rocker (Intake and exhaust). Should be betwen 0.125 - 0.175"
3º Repeat 1 and 2 for the remaining cylinders.
If any gap is out of specification, get service pushrods longer or shorter as requiered. Be sure the rocker nut is tight to 17 - 23 Ft-Lb beffore any gap check.
If no compresion tool is available, you can remove lifter, disassembly, remove oil inside lifter, then re-assembly - install. More handlabor, less money requiered...
@@3rdcoastobs467 thanks a ton home slice! My book said 20 but it also has the wrong firing order so... lol
No problem brother. I had a Chilton and Haynes book I kept referring to and those things sometimes had big differences in specs and procedures. I hope your rebuild goes smooth! Thanks for watching
WHY the scan bar code sticker on the head ????
😂😂It's a contractor logo that one of the guys out at the plant I work at, it says repcon ....**edit** please ignore the heart emoji from earlier with a bear, that was meant for my daughter! I read your user name wrong. I feel like a idiot.
Oh and the scan bar code, I think its because there are 2 options for the head one with smog hole one without plus I think it cut down on mistakes while being pulled from the shelf. That's the only thing I can thing of.
@@3rdcoastobs467 Do you work where these are reconditioned?? Have you been satisfied with it?
I actually work at a oil refinery in texas city.I bought mine from rockauto.com already machined and ready to put in (I think they get them from lkq), I like that website they have a good breakdown of parts for whatever year or model you have and have recommended parts you'll need for the job (gaskets,bolts, pushrods). They ship it fedex in a little case that you return your damaged head back for the core refund. I think if I remember correctly it was $500 but once they got my core back they refunded $200 back. I'm very happy with it so far, still drive the truck daily to work and back everyday. Its held up well for me and was cheaper and easier than sourcing a local machine shop and replacing the valves and whatnot.
What YEAR engine???
1992
What year is this?
The truck? It's a 1992 with a straight 6
@@3rdcoastobs467 thanks. I’m currently working on a 1971 f100 with a straight 6
Bullet proof motor in my opinion and cheap to replace parts but we ain't winning in races🤣. The 1971 is a beautiful year, I love those body styles! Seen a lot of coyote swaps in the single cab short (and long) beds but it's tough coughing up min 20k to do it!
@@3rdcoastobs467 yea definitely going to stick with the 6 I can’t handle dropping 20k 😂
I’m doing this
It’s a tough task but without worrying about filming and stuff it’s probably possible in a weekend (if you have the parts ready) good luck with the job brother!
@@3rdcoastobs467 I got it back together and tomorrow after the filter dries I’m going to try it