I have seen friends who shot broadheads for many shots and never checked the edge sharpness. I'm grateful to the old timers who said things had to be SHARP
All of the hyped up mechanicals that say “SHARP!!!!” I can grasp with my hands and not worry. Probably not sharp enough! I accidentally touched the back end of my practice broadhead the other day and cut a fast in my finger. Guess there’s something to shooting two blade fixed heads.
I damned near lost it on a buddy last year that "has been practicing" and I saw his broadheads he had hunting. Tips were bent, edge couldn't cut butter. Fortunately, I had 3 grits of stone and got 2 of them reasonably sharp and showed him the difference. Then I showed him my broadheads. Told him not to go back out till his broadheads were as sharp as mine.
Thanks to you and THP I bought me some broadheads for my first year of bow hunting this year and sat down with 600, 1000 grit sandpaper and a cereal box for 3 hours and got them scary sharp. Used a mini razor blade scraper to secure the blades and was surprised that it was the same or really close of a degree as the blades. (Slick Trick Standard Broadheads)
I would LOVE to see a test between a razor sharp broadhead and a moderately sharp. I'm picturing stretched rubber bands in a basket weave pattern. FAIRY SCIENCE
I don’t think a lot of hunters realize how fast blades can dull. Such as some of the .030” thick replaceable OTC broadheads can on say elk hide that’s packed with dirt and mud. Definitely something to be said for high quality steel that can pass thru an animal and still be shaving sharp
Buddy of mine had a grandfather who taught him to drag a broadhead across concrete to make it jagged before hunting. I've spent many hours helping him track wounded deers on long trails with poor blood. He's lost many deer but the ones we did find were hit in the heart and went several hundred yards. I've sharpened and stropped every blade I've slung at a deer for the exception of my 1st 5 or so years of hunting. 1st 5 years I had lost 2 animals and seldom had a tracking job less then 100 yards. Now even mediocre shots have better blood then my buddies and the vast majority of my deer die in less then 50 yards.
@@ScottWConvid19 Agreed! He's gotten a bit better as in he now doesn't dull them but he thinks the factory edge is "good enough" for properly placed shots. Well he is correct, technically, but last year he "helped" track a doe that I hit. A hard quartering away shot and she jumped string, I hit high liver, 1 lung exiting just under the spine right under the scapula. He was astonished that she only went about 70 yards and my Magnus Black Hornets left a blood trail better then his "big 2" expandables". I'm hoping that moment will convince him to let me sharpen his blades this year. Time will tell.
@@jake4194 I never said it was smart but he stood firmly in his belief. Said his grandfather told him that a jagged blade will grab and tear a larger whole.
Didn’t know you were a Trad man…or that you had a channel! Just bought Grizzly 175 grain…so disappointed in durability I’m doing a video on them. You gained a subscriber!
Science is like magic but real. A nice reminder to get the part that IMPACTS the animal as slick and sharp as possible. You owe it to the animal that you are hunting. I have 2 broadheads that have been designated as practice heads, while the other 4 will be sharp and ready. I am listening to the Kifaru Cast podcast with you and Aron Snyder. I am 30 minutes in to a 2.5 hour podcast and you both have mentioned past out of the package sharp half a dozen times. Unlike most viewers and listeners who cherry 🍒 pick a couple words and run with it, I try to take everything into context.
I was practicing on pa woodchucks a couple of years ago before I found ranch fairy 🧚♀️ shot some arrows and use the same one on 2 different woodchucks and the second shot didn't pass through like the first time. Never touched it up shooting light arrows. So before I knew ranch fairy I said to myself I need something heavy to pass through a deer and sharp broadheads. So I never shot a broadhead twice. And I didn't know you could sharpen them and still have them fly. Dust was sniffed and process got me a pass through a deer last year in 2020.
@@RanchFairy I agree with you a 100%. I started hunting with a heavier arrow and that 150 grain cut throat broad head. I have one practice one and the others I spent hours getting sharp on the stone and strop. They now await our up coming deer season in VT.
What you said about looking at a broadhead after the shot is exactly why I stopped shooting Exodus a few years back. I shot 4 deer with Exodus heads 1 season and not a single head survived a pass through into the dirt. 3 of them the blades were toasted (wasn't planning on reusing them but goes to show how easily they bent) and the 4th and final before I gave up on them one of the blades actually pulled back hard enough that it snapped the tip off where it was supposed to be anchored under.
GREAT VIDEO TF!! Love to learn your POV on G5 Montecs as I am a hard core fan and finish them on 720 and am terrified to look at. In 2 Elk kills, full pass through the arrows recovered out past 30 yards 🥶
Those are the only broadheads I've used for the last 10 seasons. I liked the CSs. If I can get my adult arrows figured out, I'm convinced to switch over to a solid head, better steel, single bevel, heavier grain. I've had montecs break on bone, Edges chainsaw up after hitting the ground, stop in larger deer (twizzler arrows contributions apply) and I've also had two montecs completely and cleanly severe femurs like a scalpel (quartered to shots). As far as OTC broadheads, they are some of the better ones, no doubt, but with adult arrows, a more solid head is gonna be the way to go. I have always done necropsies/autopsies on all my deer and the results have shown less consistent penetration than I want.
I got a bunch of those stainless inserts too. I’m finding in my Easton 6.5 matrix 250 and also my GoldTip HunterXT 250 that the ethics insert fits a bit sloppy. Usually I got gold tip brass and they are super tight, perfect fit. So to get around this I got digging around my garage and found this aviation grade steel tape. It’s like a roll of duct tape that looks like aluminum foil. I got it from a commercial aircraft mechanic. They throw shit away like crazy. Epoxy sealants lubricants, ridiculous amounts of stuff after a few months on a shelf. They want fresh supplies on plane repairs at all times. So no expired glues. Anyways I cut a tiny 1/16 sliver of that and wrapped it around the insert and perfectly shimmed it and made it centered and tight. Rather than propping up arrows and hoping the insert don’t settle to one side. Idk if you noticed slop in your inserts but, if ya do, try what I did. I think you can find similar stuff in auto body section.
@Supercreech no need to troll, friend. I ain't doing this because I'm a RF fanboy. I'm doing it because I can and love to tinker and see what happens. Next year I might be back to 500 grain arrows who knows who cares. Ignore the heavy arrow guys who throw it in your face same as I ignore the speed guys who put me down. Lighten up and good hunting.
Keep up the great work Troy. I was hoping this might be a how to clean and prepare an arrow that has goo on it so it’s ready for the quiver again. Clean the arrow, test shoot it for accuracy and sharpen it for the next hunt. And possibly troubleshooting problem areas incurred like if feathers came off or what to feel on the shaft to know that the insert is still solid and the shaft won’t blow up on the next impact. What to look for on nicked blades if they did hit a rock or tree.
Clean the arrow and broad head with hydrogen peroxide. It’ll cut all of the goo off. You can also wash both with Original (Blue)Dawn dish detergent if you like? Dish detergent just takes a little more elbow grease.
Thanks for saying necropsy instead of autopsy. It’s a little pet peeve of mine, but so many say autopsy when it’s examining the death of a different species. Sharp broadheads are more important than my pet peeve however. Thanks for showing us how sharp and why. -Nick 😃👍
RF, What quiver are you using on your bow to house those mammoth broadheads? I've switched to Grizzly Samuri and they're twice as long as my stock Mathews quiver hood is deep.
Nothing I dislike more than field dressing a Whitetail after finding 1 or 2 broadheads blades missing, in the dark, with a flashlight clamped between my teeth. Thanks to the Ranch Fairy I no longer have to dread that with my 200 grain “Adult” broadheads 🏹
So basically use the Ranch Fairy test kit to find different set ups that work for you then throw on the correlating tuffhead broad head to practice with. Got it! The pointy end of the stick is important but you want a good stick to put the pointy thing on.
Hey there, I’ve watched several of your videos on broadheads, and my question is, is there any advantage of the 35 degree bevel on the vpa compared to the 25 degree bevel on the cutthroats? Thanks for the very informative videos.
Troy I ran into the same problem when I started dating larger women I found out I wasn’t in shape had started lifting weights cause her legs were heavier.
I’m a new subscriber. Have you posted videos about bow setups and what you deem to be appropriate draw weight for heavier arrow setups? I shoot around 60-65lbs and am looking at buying a new bow. I’m wanting to start using arrow setups like you promote.
Hit me on email Troy@ranchfairy.com Send your specs and current arrow setup I’ll help ya get there PS - at longer ranges heavy arrows retain their impact energy! Tall soon
@@RanchFairyTroy speaks the gospel folks. He took time out of a holiday weekend to email me (multiple times) to help me get lined out. Thanks Troy, most everyday hunters aren’t going to get the level of detail that you gave me. Have a happy 4th.
I just upgraded my broad heads to 150gr pilot cut, single bevel Kayuga’s. These are Australian made broad heads which I am trying for the first time. Do you have any experience with these; if so is this a quality point? Thanks for the sharpening lesson as well, it’s always good to be reminded.
I use been using muzzy 3 blades, Yes they are cheap and disposable, buy two packs one for practice and one set for hunting. i do check grain weight and straightness to ensure they group consistently. blacktail deer only. want to get into tuff heads. i like the idea of a better/non-disposable broadhead
Hello Ranch Fairy...I have a bear hunt in Canada in a few months and I am looking for the best broad head for my bow to get penetration...I shoot a 24 inch draw and 42 pound draw weight out of a Mathews Avail. I have 80 grain inserts to give me more foc. What would you look at for broad heads...I will only be shooting 20-30 yards
I was planning on shooting a g5 Stryker x 125g and I went out broadhead tuned then went and was practicing for season arrow went through my target into a bail of straw behind it and busted a blade off
It gave me fits as well. I had success when i switched to diamond plates instead of sandpaper; until i get above 1000. Then i go to 2500, 5000 backwards only, 7000 backwards only. Get yourself a good jig. KME makes a very nice one for 55 bucks.
Try a KME. I think the VPA is maybe 35 degree bevel. The newer KME is adjustable to that angle I'm pretty sure. I use the older KME on my Cutthroats. Start with 800 grit wet dry sanpaper on glass. Stroke until factory machine cuts are gone. Then flip the blade over and just stroke the bur off the back side flat...not at an angle. Then move to 1000, flip over and nock the bur off of the flat side. then 1500, 2000....backwards only from 2000 and up ( you can go to 5000 then 7000 if you like) I go straight to cardboard and polishing compound (grey then white) after the 2000. you'll have a mirror finish and it will be scary sharp....very easy once you get the hang of it. I actually have never been able to get a head as sharp as I have gotten the 200gn Cutthroats.
I noticed you are a real fan of tuffheads. What about them do you find better than other single bevels? Cutthroats for example are machined out of 1 piece of metal where a tuffhead is 2 pieces braised together. Im sure both are awesome but if we wanna get all nerdy and split hairs, the solid piece would get the nod unless there is something else that makes up for it.
Well, the Tuffhead has performed quite well on elephants, hippo, and Cape buff and they are the most “ashby” 12 factors thing out there - until it fails - we keep going. So in full disclosure - BEFORE i was sponsored by Tuffhead - I shot tuffheads Finally We now have the Tuffhead evolution - one piece - 150/200/300. Not knocking cuts. You asked about Tuffhead.
I can’t go too hard on the lunkheads who pull any old arrow out of the quiver and say “this will do” when just a few seasons ago I was that lunkhead...
For no thicker than the blades are, Magnus Stingers have been very durable for me. Even after passing through a big doe, hitting brush, and dirt and hanging up in some gooseberry bushes, a few quick passes on a hard Arkansas stone and a bit of stropping had it easily passing the paper test. Same thing happened last year. I don't know how hitting heavy bone on impact would effect them. I've hit off side leg bone without wrecking them though.
Good info Troy but man, you need the ArraFoot footings to protect the most vulnerable spot on the weapon....the carbon right behind the broadhead. You know that.
I have switched to a magnus broadhead already but I was looking at making another jump to single beveled head. In shopping for those they offer a right or left wing and I am not sure why the difference.
I have never understood people who do everything they can do prior to season to prepare, and never give a thought to the sharpness of their broadheads. Many people just assume they came sharp enough out of the package as well.
Oh gods so true about the heads. I agree you have to practice with what you hunt with 💯, when i was using fixed blades i would several pacs of broad heads. Some were strictly for hunting and others were for practicing. The hunting heads never saw a target.
Probably better than any replaceable head or mechanical. The thing I realized is that we find a lot of intact arrow heads that have been in the ground and weather for hundreds of years or more. Some have passed through animals already. Many still have some sharpness.
Who makes the machined broadheads that are "ok"? Asking for a friend. Id probably buy one of those tuffhead evolutions if they came in a 100 or 125 grain.
Will you shoot a 300 lbs boar with thick shield see how much penetration ? I know smaller hogs easier to kill trying find a setup for the bigger ones in sc
I shot a young buck with a montec last year through the spine and the lower shoulder but never passed completely through the arrow broke in half do I never found the head to see how it survived but to make it through that out of a 60lbs bow it's not bad
They got the broadhead completely through the elk, it had blood pouring out the side of it, and it went maybe 40-50 yards and died in front of them. What more do you want?
@@wiscofun3028 The video I saw the one guys arrow literally stuck in the ribs and fell back out. Perfect placement and a thirty yard shot. The other guy got 6 inches of penetration. Remember that these guys use gear that they are paid for. The hype is NOT real Watch some Lusk Archery Adventures tests on some fancy expandables
...it's horses for courses - there are also good mechanicals on the market that have some advantages over fixed BHs for specific game and specific scenario, look e.g. at the SEVR line (I prefer fixed BH, but these ones I may try one day)...like with every other tool, it all depends for what you use it. BTW: ...in this particular video the fist buck did a few steps after he was hit, yes it wasn't a pass through, but it nearly died instantly from the damage, so obviously the shooter did something right - the other shot with the minimal penetration: don't blame the tool, blame the shooter who took the shot when the elk was quartering towards him. There are things you can do and there are things you shouldn't do pending on the tools you use.
@@jrod4717 if we watched the same video: it looks like the arrow got stuck in the end of the radius - you could see it seesawing up and down mirroring the movement of the bone. It looked like the trajectory was pretty bad (for 30 yards) so he might have used a very heavy arrow. The shooter must have been quite some meters on the right of the camera, so it was a bad decision to take the shot from this angle, even if he would have used a fixed BH. I could recognized from the video that the first kill used a mechanical, but couldn't see any details that would have revealed that the low penetration shot was also with a mechanical.
The industry guys are mad as he'll at ole RF... especially the bone collector guys from realtree. After ole waddy bounced his arrow off of a bucks ribs 🤣
Right... I have yet to find a bowshop that supports heavy arrows. I've had to educate many shop owners on "the process" because alot of guys are trying to tune the bow to a certain arrow weights. Furthermore, none of them understand it's about "plan B". I'm tired of hearing "it's not neccessary for whitetail here in Iowa"
I know folks are serious about this, but it's beginning to remind me of the Hank and The Bait Fisherman Part 1 skit. Single bevel dudes are like fly fisherman at this point.
Stay Sharp is what I use and it gets my heads sharper than factory. Definitely inspect all the aspects of arrow and head prior, had a few learn experiences along the way.
I've seen that guy's rants, man he hates Troy, with a passion. Why anyone would buy a product from that guy is beyond me. Buy a KME and retain some self respect.
@@wiscofun3028 that what I did bought a kme. He basically attacked one dude that was trying to sell his bow on one page bc his daughter was sick and needed the money. He called him a scammer bc he posted it on multiple pages. I believe the dude selling the bow was legit. But at that point I was like this dude is all drama.
Broadhead steel should be as hard and tough as the knife you plan to skin your game with. Not a fan of anything under 57hrc. I’d rather pay a premium for A2, SK5, or S7 tool steel with a good hardness and be confident it’ll hold up and be able to use many times over.
It is a misunderstanding of physiology. The “how” of efficient animal acquisition. Most of the industry folks have never considered it because they (to be fair) are archers. Who happen to bow-hunt. They don’t know how the arrow does it’s job after impact. Like driving a car and not being able to change a tire or basic things. Just have never been taught.
Yeah well I've shot 1,322 deer with the broadheads my uncle gave me in 1987 and I ain't a never sharpened ONE! Hell I ain't a never even had to track one down, they just fall over right there with them old broadheads, Man this guy is stoopid!
The lack of not having the sharpest head is pure LAZINESS! It’s a lot or work and commitment to bow hunt so why would anyone not put the little effort required into sharpening the tool that does the work. Keep a HIGH QUALITY FILE and fine grain finishing stone at the minimum in your bow case. I keep a Lansky kit in my gear that’s always with my bow. Instead of sitting around the fire drinking beer and making BS, check out your broadheads.
@@RanchFairy yip my bow shoots the best ever since I've followed your info. I don't think it's only about adult arrows learned how to get perfect arrow flight too.
As of 3 September, 1:28 am U.S. Central Standard Time there are 10 Dislikes for this video. That means there are 10 ding dongs that do not like reality and common sense.
Troy.... I wish you weren't so condescending when you laugh at folks, while trying to teach them the RIGHT way to treat arrows. There was AT LEAST ONE day, when you were ignorant to many things archery related.
Whats up with some people getting on RUclips now making videos presenting zero facts just basically them complaint about how hurt there feelings...lol michael Waddells video and whitetail institutes video....I mean I like those guys videos outside of that but many people are really hurt by your presentation of facts lol....sigh
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I have seen friends who shot broadheads for many shots and never checked the edge sharpness. I'm grateful to the old timers who said things had to be SHARP
All of the hyped up mechanicals that say “SHARP!!!!” I can grasp with my hands and not worry. Probably not sharp enough! I accidentally touched the back end of my practice broadhead the other day and cut a fast in my finger. Guess there’s something to shooting two blade fixed heads.
Makes me an old timer !!!
I damned near lost it on a buddy last year that "has been practicing" and I saw his broadheads he had hunting. Tips were bent, edge couldn't cut butter. Fortunately, I had 3 grits of stone and got 2 of them reasonably sharp and showed him the difference. Then I showed him my broadheads. Told him not to go back out till his broadheads were as sharp as mine.
Thanks to you and THP I bought me some broadheads for my first year of bow hunting this year and sat down with 600, 1000 grit sandpaper and a cereal box for 3 hours and got them scary sharp. Used a mini razor blade scraper to secure the blades and was surprised that it was the same or really close of a degree as the blades.
(Slick Trick Standard Broadheads)
Love the education this channel brings thank you Troy
I would LOVE to see a test between a razor sharp broadhead and a moderately sharp. I'm picturing stretched rubber bands in a basket weave pattern. FAIRY SCIENCE
I'm a simple man. I see RF post, I watch.
Fancy seeing you here bro!
@@HuntFishMichigan Imagine that!
If RF Jumps... you jump.
I don’t think a lot of hunters realize how fast blades can dull. Such as some of the .030” thick replaceable OTC broadheads can on say elk hide that’s packed with dirt and mud. Definitely something to be said for high quality steel that can pass thru an animal and still be shaving sharp
Your always on point! Dont ever stop making these videos!
Buddy of mine had a grandfather who taught him to drag a broadhead across concrete to make it jagged before hunting. I've spent many hours helping him track wounded deers on long trails with poor blood. He's lost many deer but the ones we did find were hit in the heart and went several hundred yards. I've sharpened and stropped every blade I've slung at a deer for the exception of my 1st 5 or so years of hunting. 1st 5 years I had lost 2 animals and seldom had a tracking job less then 100 yards. Now even mediocre shots have better blood then my buddies and the vast majority of my deer die in less then 50 yards.
Sounds like he needs a lesson in "find your own deer if you don't want to learn"
@@ScottWConvid19 Agreed! He's gotten a bit better as in he now doesn't dull them but he thinks the factory edge is "good enough" for properly placed shots. Well he is correct, technically, but last year he "helped" track a doe that I hit. A hard quartering away shot and she jumped string, I hit high liver, 1 lung exiting just under the spine right under the scapula. He was astonished that she only went about 70 yards and my Magnus Black Hornets left a blood trail better then his "big 2" expandables". I'm hoping that moment will convince him to let me sharpen his blades this year. Time will tell.
Rubbing the blade on concrete to make it jagged sounds so dumb it's hard to believe..
I would agree, but don't underestimate the stupidity of some people.
@@jake4194 I never said it was smart but he stood firmly in his belief. Said his grandfather told him that a jagged blade will grab and tear a larger whole.
Didn’t know you were a Trad man…or that you had a channel! Just bought Grizzly 175 grain…so disappointed in durability I’m doing a video on them. You gained a subscriber!
Science is like magic but real. A nice reminder to get the part that IMPACTS the animal as slick and sharp as possible. You owe it to the animal that you are hunting.
I have 2 broadheads that have been designated as practice heads, while the other 4 will be sharp and ready.
I am listening to the Kifaru Cast podcast with you and Aron Snyder. I am 30 minutes in to a 2.5 hour podcast and you both have mentioned past out of the package sharp half a dozen times. Unlike most viewers and listeners who cherry 🍒 pick a couple words and run with it, I try to take everything into context.
I was practicing on pa woodchucks a couple of years ago before I found ranch fairy 🧚♀️ shot some arrows and use the same one on 2 different woodchucks and the second shot didn't pass through like the first time. Never touched it up shooting light arrows. So before I knew ranch fairy I said to myself I need something heavy to pass through a deer and sharp broadheads. So I never shot a broadhead twice. And I didn't know you could sharpen them and still have them fly. Dust was sniffed and process got me a pass through a deer last year in 2020.
I have a broadhead dedicated to just practice. This way I don't make a bad mistake hunting. Great video!!!
That’s what everyone needs to go
Ya ding one or whatever - it becomes a practice head
@@RanchFairy I agree with you a 100%. I started hunting with a heavier arrow and that 150 grain cut throat broad head. I have one practice one and the others I spent hours getting sharp on the stone and strop. They now await our up coming deer season in VT.
What you said about looking at a broadhead after the shot is exactly why I stopped shooting Exodus a few years back. I shot 4 deer with Exodus heads 1 season and not a single head survived a pass through into the dirt. 3 of them the blades were toasted (wasn't planning on reusing them but goes to show how easily they bent) and the 4th and final before I gave up on them one of the blades actually pulled back hard enough that it snapped the tip off where it was supposed to be anchored under.
Oooof
GREAT VIDEO TF!!
Love to learn your POV on G5 Montecs as I am a hard core fan and finish them on 720 and am terrified to look at. In 2 Elk kills, full pass through the arrows recovered out past 30 yards 🥶
Those are the only broadheads I've used for the last 10 seasons. I liked the CSs. If I can get my adult arrows figured out, I'm convinced to switch over to a solid head, better steel, single bevel, heavier grain. I've had montecs break on bone, Edges chainsaw up after hitting the ground, stop in larger deer (twizzler arrows contributions apply) and I've also had two montecs completely and cleanly severe femurs like a scalpel (quartered to shots). As far as OTC broadheads, they are some of the better ones, no doubt, but with adult arrows, a more solid head is gonna be the way to go. I have always done necropsies/autopsies on all my deer and the results have shown less consistent penetration than I want.
DHHS: "42 cups of coffee has enough caffeine to stop your heart. "
Me: "So, 41 is the limit"
“13 is my limit on shnitzengruben”
@@RanchFairy Not 15? 🤣
@@RanchFairy Can you imagine what would happen if they tried to make that movie today?
What a day for a new RF video. My Ethics inserts and 150 grain Stingers arrived today. On my way to a 650 grain build.
I got a bunch of those stainless inserts too. I’m finding in my Easton 6.5 matrix 250 and also my GoldTip HunterXT 250 that the ethics insert fits a bit sloppy. Usually I got gold tip brass and they are super tight, perfect fit. So to get around this I got digging around my garage and found this aviation grade steel tape. It’s like a roll of duct tape that looks like aluminum foil. I got it from a commercial aircraft mechanic. They throw shit away like crazy. Epoxy sealants lubricants, ridiculous amounts of stuff after a few months on a shelf. They want fresh supplies on plane repairs at all times. So no expired glues. Anyways I cut a tiny 1/16 sliver of that and wrapped it around the insert and perfectly shimmed it and made it centered and tight. Rather than propping up arrows and hoping the insert don’t settle to one side.
Idk if you noticed slop in your inserts but, if ya do, try what I did. I think you can find similar stuff in auto body section.
@@voxpopuli905 good info thank you. They are going in gold tip kinetics.
@@drewsroo .204 ID?
@Supercreech ahhh we got team twizzler over here. Are you a betting man mister flappy wing?
@Supercreech no need to troll, friend. I ain't doing this because I'm a RF fanboy. I'm doing it because I can and love to tinker and see what happens. Next year I might be back to 500 grain arrows who knows who cares. Ignore the heavy arrow guys who throw it in your face same as I ignore the speed guys who put me down. Lighten up and good hunting.
Spent and hour with the KME on one bevel of an RMS Cutthroat. That’s some tough steel!
Yep.
They sure do shine when they shine tho👍🏻👍🏻
Keep up the great work Troy. I was hoping this might be a how to clean and prepare an arrow that has goo on it so it’s ready for the quiver again. Clean the arrow, test shoot it for accuracy and sharpen it for the next hunt. And possibly troubleshooting problem areas incurred like if feathers came off or what to feel on the shaft to know that the insert is still solid and the shaft won’t blow up on the next impact. What to look for on nicked blades if they did hit a rock or tree.
Clean the arrow and broad head with hydrogen peroxide. It’ll cut all of the goo off. You can also wash both with Original (Blue)Dawn dish detergent if you like? Dish detergent just takes a little more elbow grease.
Thanks for saying necropsy instead of autopsy. It’s a little pet peeve of mine, but so many say autopsy when it’s examining the death of a different species. Sharp broadheads are more important than my pet peeve however. Thanks for showing us how sharp and why.
-Nick 😃👍
Ya!!
Troy, I would love to see you post some whitetail hunts to show what your pig arrows can do to deer.
Ole Jim Ryser sure is getting around! :)
Hard to find honest people these days. Every one wants to blame the product instead of just saying I was at fault. Great video as always
Your idea of "The biggest sin" is Pure Gold Fact!!
RF, What quiver are you using on your bow to house those mammoth broadheads? I've switched to Grizzly Samuri and they're twice as long as my stock Mathews quiver hood is deep.
U said u talk to the anhilator guys what do u think of them
Nothing I dislike more than field dressing a Whitetail after finding 1 or 2 broadheads blades missing, in the dark, with a flashlight clamped between my teeth.
Thanks to the Ranch Fairy I no longer have to dread that with my 200 grain “Adult” broadheads 🏹
So basically use the Ranch Fairy test kit to find different set ups that work for you then throw on the correlating tuffhead broad head to practice with. Got it! The pointy end of the stick is important but you want a good stick to put the pointy thing on.
Hey there, I’ve watched several of your videos on broadheads, and my question is, is there any advantage of the 35 degree bevel on the vpa compared to the 25 degree bevel on the cutthroats? Thanks for the very informative videos.
Troy I ran into the same problem when I started dating larger women I found out I wasn’t in shape had started lifting weights cause her legs were heavier.
I’m a new subscriber. Have you posted videos about bow setups and what you deem to be appropriate draw weight for heavier arrow setups? I shoot around 60-65lbs and am looking at buying a new bow. I’m wanting to start using arrow setups like you promote.
I also should have said that I don’t shoot past 40 yards. Not much need in Illinois.
Hit me on email
Troy@ranchfairy.com
Send your specs and current arrow setup
I’ll help ya get there
PS - at longer ranges heavy arrows retain their impact energy!
Tall soon
@@RanchFairyTroy speaks the gospel folks. He took time out of a holiday weekend to email me (multiple times) to help me get lined out.
Thanks Troy, most everyday hunters aren’t going to get the level of detail that you gave me. Have a happy 4th.
Very true you owe it to the animal to use the sharpest broadhead my dad tought me this in the late 80's when wasp broadheads where the thing
I just upgraded my broad heads to 150gr pilot cut, single bevel Kayuga’s. These are Australian made broad heads which I am trying for the first time. Do you have any experience with these; if so is this a quality point?
Thanks for the sharpening lesson as well, it’s always good to be reminded.
See my video
Nervous need string jump
Shooting zwickeys this year, gotta start from scratch, figured I’d watch to remind me why I don’t just put the file to em and call it a day
Would like to see his opinion on the dirtnap broadheads. Ive never seen them til now
I use been using muzzy 3 blades, Yes they are cheap and disposable, buy two packs one for practice and one set for hunting. i do check grain weight and straightness to ensure they group consistently. blacktail deer only. want to get into tuff heads. i like the idea of a better/non-disposable broadhead
Hello Ranch Fairy...I have a bear hunt in Canada in a few months and I am looking for the best broad head for my bow to get penetration...I shoot a 24 inch draw and 42 pound draw weight out of a Mathews Avail. I have 80 grain inserts to give me more foc. What would you look at for broad heads...I will only be shooting 20-30 yards
Hit me on email
Troy@ranchfairy.com
Send arrow brand
Arrow spine
I was planning on shooting a g5 Stryker x 125g and I went out broadhead tuned then went and was practicing for season arrow went through my target into a bail of straw behind it and busted a blade off
Trying to sharpen VPA single bevel. Having a hard time. But will check after shot now.
It gave me fits as well. I had success when i switched to diamond plates instead of sandpaper; until i get above 1000. Then i go to 2500, 5000 backwards only, 7000 backwards only. Get yourself a good jig. KME makes a very nice one for 55 bucks.
Try a KME. I think the VPA is maybe 35 degree bevel. The newer KME is adjustable to that angle I'm pretty sure. I use the older KME on my Cutthroats. Start with 800 grit wet dry sanpaper on glass. Stroke until factory machine cuts are gone. Then flip the blade over and just stroke the bur off the back side flat...not at an angle. Then move to 1000, flip over and nock the bur off of the flat side. then 1500, 2000....backwards only from 2000 and up ( you can go to 5000 then 7000 if you like) I go straight to cardboard and polishing compound (grey then white) after the 2000. you'll have a mirror finish and it will be scary sharp....very easy once you get the hang of it. I actually have never been able to get a head as sharp as I have gotten the 200gn Cutthroats.
I noticed you are a real fan of tuffheads. What about them do you find better than other single bevels? Cutthroats for example are machined out of 1 piece of metal where a tuffhead is 2 pieces braised together. Im sure both are awesome but if we wanna get all nerdy and split hairs, the solid piece would get the nod unless there is something else that makes up for it.
Well, the Tuffhead has performed quite well on elephants, hippo, and Cape buff and they are the most “ashby” 12 factors thing out there - until it fails - we keep going.
So in full disclosure - BEFORE i was sponsored by Tuffhead - I shot tuffheads
Finally
We now have the Tuffhead evolution - one piece - 150/200/300.
Not knocking cuts. You asked about Tuffhead.
I can’t go too hard on the lunkheads who pull any old arrow out of the quiver and say “this will do” when just a few seasons ago I was that lunkhead...
Good info!
The real truth of broadheads & their toughness keep them coming.
For no thicker than the blades are, Magnus Stingers have been very durable for me. Even after passing through a big doe, hitting brush, and dirt and hanging up in some gooseberry bushes, a few quick passes on a hard Arkansas stone and a bit of stropping had it easily passing the paper test. Same thing happened last year. I don't know how hitting heavy bone on impact would effect them. I've hit off side leg bone without wrecking them though.
Good info Troy but man, you need the ArraFoot footings to protect the most vulnerable spot on the weapon....the carbon right behind the broadhead. You know that.
Studying that - but
I’ve had zero shaft implosions to date
What do you think of Strickland archery's helix broadhead? Can you do a video on sharpening them?
One of the thp used one and the tip bent over on a buck deflecting the arrow and buck never found
I have switched to a magnus broadhead already but I was looking at making another jump to single beveled head. In shopping for those they offer a right or left wing and I am not sure why the difference.
To match the feathers on your arrows. Right wing feathers to right bevel, left wing feathers and left bevel. I shoot left and left.
@@sarafayelawton652 that is what I was guessing but I didn’t no for sure and I hated to spend $100 on the wrong thing
I have never understood people who do everything they can do prior to season to prepare, and never give a thought to the sharpness of their broadheads. Many people just assume they came sharp enough out of the package as well.
Oh gods so true about the heads. I agree you have to practice with what you hunt with 💯, when i was using fixed blades i would several pacs of broad heads.
Some were strictly for hunting and others were for practicing. The hunting heads never saw a target.
I've never used napped flint, glass or obsidian yet, but I wonder how they would rank in tests
Probably better than any replaceable head or mechanical. The thing I realized is that we find a lot of intact arrow heads that have been in the ground and weather for hundreds of years or more. Some have passed through animals already. Many still have some sharpness.
Who makes the machined broadheads that are "ok"? Asking for a friend. Id probably buy one of those tuffhead evolutions if they came in a 100 or 125 grain.
He's probably talking about Cutthroats or VPAs
@@josephr1198
Nope -
Here we go
Bone
Vandieman
Are just “ok”. And yeah - I have them in hand.
@@RanchFairy ah, I had interrupted the question wrong.
Will you shoot a 300 lbs boar with thick shield see how much penetration ? I know smaller hogs easier to kill trying find a setup for the bigger ones in sc
PRO lol rage 2 cage
@@Hmoob828 expandable don't work on them big boars
I shot a young buck with a montec last year through the spine and the lower shoulder but never passed completely through the arrow broke in half do I never found the head to see how it survived but to make it through that out of a 60lbs bow it's not bad
120 pound whitetail? Is that avg for down that way?
That or lower
Jimmy Buffett deer
Took me 2 hours to get my first Cutthroat broadhead scary sharp. 3 more to go...lol. I just keep thinking RF said don't stop til it's done.
I am waiting on the stay sharp guide jig for my vpa 200 grain head and ill have that too look forward too haha!
I shoot 250 grain single bevel cutthroats myself and can’t say enough good things about them.
Any comment on wasp sharpshooter heads?
Too much coffee is like saying your broadheads are too sharp. NEVER.
Excellent
Might want to spin your arrows to check for wobble after shooting through an animal in addition to checking the blades.
Speaking of elk...
I just watched Buck Commanders latest video. It was absolutely horrendous how little penetration expandables get
Yep. And THATS ALL they ever expect
They got the broadhead completely through the elk, it had blood pouring out the side of it, and it went maybe 40-50 yards and died in front of them. What more do you want?
@@wiscofun3028 The video I saw the one guys arrow literally stuck in the ribs and fell back out. Perfect placement and a thirty yard shot. The other guy got 6 inches of penetration. Remember that these guys use gear that they are paid for. The hype is NOT real
Watch some Lusk Archery Adventures tests on some fancy expandables
...it's horses for courses - there are also good mechanicals on the market that have some advantages over fixed BHs for specific game and specific scenario, look e.g. at the SEVR line (I prefer fixed BH, but these ones I may try one day)...like with every other tool, it all depends for what you use it. BTW: ...in this particular video the fist buck did a few steps after he was hit, yes it wasn't a pass through, but it nearly died instantly from the damage, so obviously the shooter did something right - the other shot with the minimal penetration: don't blame the tool, blame the shooter who took the shot when the elk was quartering towards him. There are things you can do and there are things you shouldn't do pending on the tools you use.
@@jrod4717 if we watched the same video: it looks like the arrow got stuck in the end of the radius - you could see it seesawing up and down mirroring the movement of the bone. It looked like the trajectory was pretty bad (for 30 yards) so he might have used a very heavy arrow. The shooter must have been quite some meters on the right of the camera, so it was a bad decision to take the shot from this angle, even if he would have used a fixed BH. I could recognized from the video that the first kill used a mechanical, but couldn't see any details that would have revealed that the low penetration shot was also with a mechanical.
Common sense is not so common anymore. Your subscribers are lucky that they can learn some from you mate. Love ya work!
Thanks
We a need a video of broadheads being shot into deer "shoulder bones" aka the humerus.
See my quartering to series and Aaron Warbritton’s buck kill. There you go
@@RanchFairy but some TV guy told me that's impossible. You might have heard about this. 🤣🤣🤣
@@Waty8413 My thoughts when I heard that as well!
Yup 👍👍👍
The industry guys are mad as he'll at ole RF... especially the bone collector guys from realtree. After ole waddy bounced his arrow off of a bucks ribs 🤣
That is an interesting “result”
Right... I have yet to find a bowshop that supports heavy arrows. I've had to educate many shop owners on "the process" because alot of guys are trying to tune the bow to a certain arrow weights. Furthermore, none of them understand it's about "plan B". I'm tired of hearing "it's not neccessary for whitetail here in Iowa"
Hope Troy never stops Slamming the disposable broadhead industry, probably unsubscribe if he does 😂
Really gets people’s panties in a wad when they are faced with facts that go against their preconceived notions of how things ought to be.
@@RanchFairy ruclips.net/video/w2oiQtMZJ94/видео.html
Yeah not to mention- imagine eating a piece of your own broadhead in a piece of meat!
Venison is high enough in iron without flapper parts
Its like having a cheap gas station knife vs having a a hairsplitting well made knife.you want it to last and stay sharp all the time
There is no such thing as drinking too much coffee.
I am looking for a target that sharpens your broadheads. No luck so far...
Shot into sandpaper or a sharpening stone. That oughta work 😀
Let me know when you invent one. I'll buy it!
@@reganjeremiah08 *shoot. Will do 😂
Yep , no cast or injection molding , cut on contact amen bro
We need a Ranch Fairy to English translator for terms like "Flapper". ;.)
I forgot what the RF means by Flapper.
Mechanical broadhead
I know folks are serious about this, but it's beginning to remind me of the Hank and The Bait Fisherman Part 1 skit. Single bevel dudes are like fly fisherman at this point.
Stay Sharp is what I use and it gets my heads sharper than factory. Definitely inspect all the aspects of arrow and head prior, had a few learn experiences along the way.
Luckily Ron Kulas is in Africa so hopefully he won't post in every heavy arrow group about you this time.
I think he likes you Troy.
That Ron dude just wants attention so bad.
I've seen that guy's rants, man he hates Troy, with a passion. Why anyone would buy a product from that guy is beyond me. Buy a KME and retain some self respect.
@@wiscofun3028 that what I did bought a kme. He basically attacked one dude that was trying to sell his bow on one page bc his daughter was sick and needed the money. He called him a scammer bc he posted it on multiple pages. I believe the dude selling the bow was legit. But at that point I was like this dude is all drama.
Keepum Sharp 👍
Broadhead steel should be as hard and tough as the knife you plan to skin your game with. Not a fan of anything under 57hrc.
I’d rather pay a premium for A2, SK5, or S7 tool steel with a good hardness and be confident it’ll hold up and be able to use many times over.
Do not show on your body where the arrow hit-a bad omen.)
Thanks for preaching the Gospel of Sharp, I can't believe this isn't a common sense issue 😳
It is a misunderstanding of physiology.
The “how” of efficient animal acquisition.
Most of the industry folks have never considered it because they (to be fair) are archers. Who happen to bow-hunt. They don’t know how the arrow does it’s job after impact.
Like driving a car and not being able to change a tire or basic things.
Just have never been taught.
I actually restrop my broadheads after I do a paper test 🤷♂️
Yeah well I've shot 1,322 deer with the broadheads my uncle gave me in 1987 and I ain't a never sharpened ONE! Hell I ain't a never even had to track one down, they just fall over right there with them old broadheads, Man this guy is stoopid!
The lack of not having the sharpest head is pure LAZINESS! It’s a lot or work and commitment to bow hunt so why would anyone not put the little effort required into sharpening the tool that does the work. Keep a HIGH QUALITY FILE and fine grain finishing stone at the minimum in your bow case. I keep a Lansky kit in my gear that’s always with my bow. Instead of sitting around the fire drinking beer and making BS, check out your broadheads.
You'd be surprised.
We know your not saying to shoot the humorous. People just wanna be important.
You’re paying attention!!!
@@RanchFairy yip my bow shoots the best ever since I've followed your info. I don't think it's only about adult arrows learned how to get perfect arrow flight too.
💪🏽🇺🇸🏹
Good common sense
As of 3 September, 1:28 am U.S. Central Standard Time there are 10 Dislikes for this video. That means there are 10 ding dongs that do not like reality and common sense.
“We prefer dull broadheads”
Troy.... I wish you weren't so condescending when you laugh at folks, while trying to teach them the RIGHT way to treat arrows. There was AT LEAST ONE day, when you were ignorant to many things archery related.
It’s refreshing to not watch a guy full send a broadhead into a cinder block or car hood.
Not sure what those types of tests accomplish!!
This is a smart man.
Life is harder when you are stupid . Do the right thing for the animal and for your self. Sharpen your broads .
Cocaine is a hell of a drug
Whats up with some people getting on RUclips now making videos presenting zero facts just basically them complaint about how hurt there feelings...lol michael Waddells video and whitetail institutes video....I mean I like those guys videos outside of that but many people are really hurt by your presentation of facts lol....sigh
I’ve been amazed. That wasn’t supposed to happen. I was just gonna stay in a hole with my tinfoil hat…..
They aren't sharp from the package anymore.
Wasp jackhammer 125gr. Greatest ever.
Super sharp!