I wonder if someone ran some funky fuel or something through that engine. Those sure were the worst spark plugs I've ever seen. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Yeah, he got the time out of those plugs, lol. I've only seen worse one time, many moons ago, my dad had a '68 or 69 chevy truck, 6 banger with manual choke. I loved that thing, anyway he changed plugs and the electrode was completely gone and hollow on the inside, on all 6. It wasn't even running that bad, I guess there was a little spark in there somewhere. I asked him why he waited so long to change the plugs and he said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
That motor has been run very hot sometime prior. Possibly also what led to new tranny... but that's speculative. But overheated motor causes the fuel mixture to burn too fast for the flame front to clear the spark plug... melting the anode(s). Also note the sound of a stretched timing chain. Good diagnostic and fix! That's the kind of work that builds trust, hopefully the customer calls you for the timing train when that inevitably requires addressing.
That plug reminded me of many years ago in my teens I was always experimenting with lean running carburetors trying to stretch my cruising time, and on a road trip my friend ( who liked to drive real fast ) discovered that with leaner conditions my cars top end rpm was REALLY high and that my junky Chevy could do 140 mph. After driving it over 100 for many miles we got back home and I took the plugs out to find most of them missing the outer electrode.
My thoughts as well, the piston top looked brand new. Kenny didn't say anything about a new or rebuilt engine. So maybe it had been run some fancy fuel. Who knows
Kenny! FOlks complain about your intro???? "What are we workin on today..." That's a Fine intro! LOL, someone has 2 much time on their hands! ANother thing I cant blieve is the knowitalls who argue with you or chicanic or Eric O at SMA- you are an expert kind enough to share your work and hard won experience and naysayers want to tell you , you're doing it wrong? Unreal!
Good evening Mr Kenny, great to see you again on Friday Thank you sir for all your videos and the work you put in them to share your knowledge.Again sir y'all have a good weekend
those were guaranteed OEM plugs with 130K on them, that's what happens after the platinum (or whatever type metal tips) wear away, it quickly eats the standard electrodes and gets worse as the gap widens. the ECM just keeps compensating for it, until it cannot. once again, pure proof tune-up's should be done at every 30K... the engines run much better, cat, converters don't get clogged as easily, etc.
Plugs will wear like that if they are never changed. AFA the engine noise it is likely cam phasers and or chain tensioner. 2V motors don't have the phasers but the hydraulic tensioner seals will harden causing cold start up noise and then when the engine is warmed up the seals soften enough from heat so that they will work for the rest of the day without noise. The 3V motors have phasers that just wear out and can cause noise hot or cold along with the tensioner problem. Either way the only fix is to do a complete timing chain job and replace everything. Use OE ford parts they last the longest for this repair.
Had a large ford truck that the top of the piston broke off at the top ring and stopped at the top of the cylinder. The truck ran quite with a miss. Pulled the cyl head and pan stuck a piston in and ran for years no issues.
That’s a really interesting one! For the mileage on the van, the #1 piston looked too clean. Would be interested what the other cylinders look like. If only #1 is that clean, maybe a slight head gasket leak (the coolant would steam clean the piston)? Don’t know if you put in new Motorcraft plugs, but the new one looked different from the original. Those 2-valve engines are usually pretty durable…
Agreed with the first part. He has a spare Motorcraft plug to just rule out the misfire on that one problem cylinder The service writer has to wait for the authorization to change ALL plugs from the customer and Kenny has free time to rule it out
Kenny, In a previous video you mentioned that the plug gap wasn't a big issue that you just eyeball a set and fit them, and that it doesn't really matter or affect much. Well, with the way US engines are designed and built that may well be the case, but for most European engines, the plug gap is critical, I have had cases with European GM (Vauxhall, Opal, etc.) where a 2 thou difference in plug gap from spec creates either a misfire or hesitation under load/acceleration. I can only assume that most US engines are generally 2 or 3 times the size of the European ones in similar vehicle sizes and the Petrol you have is different from the Petrol we have in the UK/Europe and these two things are in general the key to it. Here in the UK we just don't see many commercial vehicles (vans, pickups, or small trucks) with petrol engines, I think the last one I worked on was a late 70's Ford Transit with a 2L pinto in-line 4-cylinder, Then again, you pay per US gallon roughly what we pay per Litre for petrol, hence why most vehicles of any significant size are diesel over here. Also, I see a lot of times you are taking the original factory plugs out (standard copper core) and the engine has over100k miles on it, again, here in the UK and most of Europe, at that mileage we would be on the 4th, 5th or even 6th set. I really like your channel but it does show how big the difference is between the US and the UK/Europe concerning vehicles.
I've seen the Ford Crown Vic with the 4.6 (obviously) get misfires in cylinder 8 due to a lean condition caused by a weak or failing fuel pump. To me, a lean condition is the only reason the plug should melt like that.
I don't think those plugs have ever been changed in 132,000 miles and were probably supposed to be changed every 30 or 40,000 miles! What do you think Kenny? What does the vehicles maintenance schedule say?
Just a comparison with old school technique: Back in the day, the first thing would be a full "tune-up". Plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap, air filter, oil change, PCV valve, etc.... THEN and only then would diagnostic work begin. I love OBD-II and scanners that help us greatly but... I wonder if much time would have been saved if this rig would have had full service and not all of the hours to diag, front loaded?
That number one spark plug looks like it's been subject to extreme heat or it's knocking. Detonation could destroy a plug like that. Either that plug is horribly hot or there's detonation in that cylinder.
GAPPER, FUNNY reminder from the old days in the Military, a dancing girl in a GOGO bar on the other side of the world where this is extremely popular, a 1 gapper means when she is standing with her ankles together you can fit 1 finger between her thighs and touch both sides as there is a bit of an air gap to let light through, and a 4 gapper means you can fit your 4 fingers side by side between before you can touch both sides, palm flat facing up, thumb tucked away, and a large air gap to let light through, OMG. A no gapper means she has a little meat on her bones and there is no air gap to see through. No disrespect intended ladies, just keeping it real. Just saw a much worse case with all 4 plugs totally melted away in the DiagnoseDan FB Group, the tech said the threaded portion now feels like aluminum foil wrapped up, fake China parts, and it is not the first time seeing this problem but this was the worse yet. Put the old spark plugs back in less than 100KM later and the fuel trims are good so it does not appear to have been running lean as the melted plugs were also very white around the bottom of the threads, HMMMMMM
Why don’t car buyers get bulletins or brochures about the check engine light. I am 70, and I never heard about the check engine light telling me anything.
I would like to know what happened with the oil problem you could see the air bubbles in the oil and the noise it made on start up. Did you recommend an oil change or something else?👍
I think you're right. It was running lean but didn't set any codes. The one plug that was burnt came out of a cylinder that wasn't even misfiring. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching!
That was a different kinda meltdown on #1 but when you showed all of the plugs....holy cow lol. There's something going on, those plugs are wasted no matter how many miles are on them. I've put well over 100K miles on plugs before and they've looked way better than those....but is a Ford you're working on lol.
Could a higher than normal percentage of ethanol in the fuel be the cause of this? I know that the flex fuel engines from Ford are decent at adjusting fuel trim and timing, but perhaps the system didn’t recognize the concentration in the fuel and ran it lean like you mentioned.
i DON'T own a e-150 but a f-150 (2013) platinum. It has a intermittent rear camera issue. Someone said to "soft reset the Sync system would fix it. Can't find out how. Any advise?
That thing is running lean. That's detonating. I didn't watch the whole video because I've had a few drinks and it's just about bedtime, but I'd suspect failing fuel pump. I had an older Crown Vic towed to my shop a few years ago that was just tuned up, and fuel pump died a few miles later
Why take it for a road test when you see Cylinder 1 counting misfires like crazy @6:04? I saw 6 them 25 misfires in about 2 seconds? A bit more patience reading your scanner was in order before driving it with a dead cylinder.
Please try to explain the following: While front end jacked up during oil change no engine light until I drove around to the front of my house and just before I parked in ft.....engine light came back on!!!?
Get the trouble code and reset it to see if it comes back with the same code. Sometimes it's a hiccup in the system if the same code or check engine light doesn't return
I have mp special equipment. I just noticed it kast fall. I have no fancy devices I just know what I saw. In my view it'd not vritival. Thanks ya"]]!!!
@@davidweum AutoZone, advance Auto parts, O'Reilly's to name a few... They'll walk out to the parking lot But only use it as a guide, it's not a direct diagnosis
He was not talking about using a wire gapping tool, he was referring to not wedging a tapered one in the gap to open it up. He recently did a video on it "Spark Plug Replacement, Gapping Tips & Figuring Out Why I Now Have A Misfire.."
If those plugs were original , they are begging for trouble . What about gas mileage ? Spend 40 K on a vehicle and do ZERO maintenance . It's like a light bulb - it's on or it's off . 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I wonder if someone ran some funky fuel or something through that engine. Those sure were the worst spark plugs I've ever seen. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Love the bore scoping Kenny. That noise could have been what we seen in the cylinder goig out the valve.I dont know 😁
Yeah, he got the time out of those plugs, lol. I've only seen worse one time, many moons ago, my dad had a '68 or 69 chevy truck, 6 banger with manual choke. I loved that thing, anyway he changed plugs and the electrode was completely gone and hollow on the inside, on all 6. It wasn't even running that bad, I guess there was a little spark in there somewhere. I asked him why he waited so long to change the plugs and he said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
That motor has been run very hot sometime prior. Possibly also what led to new tranny... but that's speculative. But overheated motor causes the fuel mixture to burn too fast for the flame front to clear the spark plug... melting the anode(s). Also note the sound of a stretched timing chain.
Good diagnostic and fix! That's the kind of work that builds trust, hopefully the customer calls you for the timing train when that inevitably requires addressing.
That plug reminded me of many years ago in my teens I was always experimenting with lean running carburetors trying to stretch my cruising time, and on a road trip my friend ( who liked to drive real fast ) discovered that with leaner conditions my cars top end rpm was REALLY high and that my junky Chevy could do 140 mph.
After driving it over 100 for many miles we got back home and I took the plugs out to find most of them missing the outer electrode.
Top of the piston looked very clean like new Kenny
My thoughts as well, the piston top looked brand new. Kenny didn't say anything about a new or rebuilt engine. So maybe it had been run some fancy fuel. Who knows
Right😮 others say it was steam cleaned 😢
Probably fuel washed with such a big misfire.
Kenny! FOlks complain about your intro???? "What are we workin on today..." That's a Fine intro! LOL, someone has 2 much time on their hands! ANother thing I cant blieve is the knowitalls who argue with you or chicanic or Eric O at SMA- you are an expert kind enough to share your work and hard won experience and naysayers want to tell you , you're doing it wrong? Unreal!
Good evening Mr Kenny, great to see you again on Friday Thank you sir for all your videos and the work you put in them to share your knowledge.Again sir y'all have a good weekend
Thank you for posting the borescope! I really appreciate you!
Old plug to new plug looks different in a few ways. I would bet the melted one is a counterfeit plug.
I was going to post the same thing. They look too shiny and we're slightly different from the replacement. Amazon/eBay strikes again.
those were guaranteed OEM plugs with 130K on them, that's what happens after the platinum (or whatever type metal tips) wear away, it quickly eats the standard electrodes and gets worse as the gap widens. the ECM just keeps compensating for it, until it cannot. once again, pure proof tune-up's should be done at every 30K...
the engines run much better, cat, converters don't get clogged as easily, etc.
@@throttlebottle5906 Just curious, how do you know there is 130k on those plugs?
You are the man I wish you live closer.
Plugs will wear like that if they are never changed. AFA the engine noise it is likely cam phasers and or chain tensioner. 2V motors don't have the phasers but the hydraulic tensioner seals will harden causing cold start up noise and then when the engine is warmed up the seals soften enough from heat so that they will work for the rest of the day without noise. The 3V motors have phasers that just wear out and can cause noise hot or cold along with the tensioner problem. Either way the only fix is to do a complete timing chain job and replace everything. Use OE ford parts they last the longest for this repair.
Had a large ford truck that the top of the piston broke off at the top ring and stopped at the top of the cylinder. The truck ran quite with a miss. Pulled the cyl head and pan stuck a piston in and ran for years no issues.
What a great troubleshooting and diagnostic video. Very interesting about cylinder #1 plug….. I got something out of this specific video 👍
That’s a really interesting one! For the mileage on the van, the #1 piston looked too clean. Would be interested what the other cylinders look like. If only #1 is that clean, maybe a slight head gasket leak (the coolant would steam clean the piston)? Don’t know if you put in new Motorcraft plugs, but the new one looked different from the original. Those 2-valve engines are usually pretty durable…
Agreed with the first part.
He has a spare Motorcraft plug to just rule out the misfire on that one problem cylinder
The service writer has to wait for the authorization to change ALL plugs from the customer and Kenny has free time to rule it out
Man I love your videos very informative short and to the point
Kenny, In a previous video you mentioned that the plug gap wasn't a big issue that you just eyeball a set and fit them, and that it doesn't really matter or affect much. Well, with the way US engines are designed and built that may well be the case, but for most European engines, the plug gap is critical, I have had cases with European GM (Vauxhall, Opal, etc.) where a 2 thou difference in plug gap from spec creates either a misfire or hesitation under load/acceleration. I can only assume that most US engines are generally 2 or 3 times the size of the European ones in similar vehicle sizes and the Petrol you have is different from the Petrol we have in the UK/Europe and these two things are in general the key to it. Here in the UK we just don't see many commercial vehicles (vans, pickups, or small trucks) with petrol engines, I think the last one I worked on was a late 70's Ford Transit with a 2L pinto in-line 4-cylinder, Then again, you pay per US gallon roughly what we pay per Litre for petrol, hence why most vehicles of any significant size are diesel over here. Also, I see a lot of times you are taking the original factory plugs out (standard copper core) and the engine has over100k miles on it, again, here in the UK and most of Europe, at that mileage we would be on the 4th, 5th or even 6th set. I really like your channel but it does show how big the difference is between the US and the UK/Europe concerning vehicles.
I've seen the Ford Crown Vic with the 4.6 (obviously) get misfires in cylinder 8 due to a lean condition caused by a weak or failing fuel pump. To me, a lean condition is the only reason the plug should melt like that.
Number 1 was counting up before you went on test drive
Well done brother Kenny!
No brained on the plug issues, wonder what kind of oil& filter the owner has installed , lots of noise in the oil system!
I don't think those plugs have ever been changed in 132,000 miles and were probably supposed to be changed every 30 or 40,000 miles!
What do you think Kenny?
What does the vehicles maintenance schedule say?
Nice diag nice catch nice work as always
Cheers from Nova Scotia
WOW--I've never seen a spark plug like that
Just a comparison with old school technique:
Back in the day, the first thing would be a full "tune-up".
Plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap, air filter, oil change, PCV valve, etc....
THEN and only then would diagnostic work begin.
I love OBD-II and scanners that help us greatly but...
I wonder if much time would have been saved if this rig would have had full service and not all of the hours to diag, front loaded?
Love your videos Kenny .the top that piston had no carbon check other piston see if looks the same 16:51
Yeah, like it was steam cleaned 😮
That racket on startup is possibly a cam phaser not locking in place.
That number one spark plug looks like it's been subject to extreme heat or it's knocking. Detonation could destroy a plug like that. Either that plug is horribly hot or there's detonation in that cylinder.
That's a counterfeit plug, look at the difference in the metal on the plugs. Customer is lucky they didn't destroy the engine
Melt downs might have been caused by the plugs wearing down and gap increasing and current increasing.
Looks like aftermarket counterfeit plugs - we've seen those look like that after just 20,000 miles.
Good one
Kenny your so Vane . Bages under your eyes. Lol love your videos.
GAPPER, FUNNY reminder from the old days in the Military, a dancing girl in a GOGO bar on the other side of the world where this is extremely popular, a 1 gapper means when she is standing with her ankles together you can fit 1 finger between her thighs and touch both sides as there is a bit of an air gap to let light through, and a 4 gapper means you can fit your 4 fingers side by side between before you can touch both sides, palm flat facing up, thumb tucked away, and a large air gap to let light through, OMG. A no gapper means she has a little meat on her bones and there is no air gap to see through. No disrespect intended ladies, just keeping it real.
Just saw a much worse case with all 4 plugs totally melted away in the DiagnoseDan FB Group, the tech said the threaded portion now feels like aluminum foil wrapped up, fake China parts, and it is not the first time seeing this problem but this was the worse yet. Put the old spark plugs back in less than 100KM later and the fuel trims are good so it does not appear to have been running lean as the melted plugs were also very white around the bottom of the threads, HMMMMMM
I would have tested HO2S activity since there was a difference between banks, cheers.
Cheep gas dose not had the additives. It causes carbon buildup and carbons the valves and plugs.
I've never seen a plug that bad something in wonder if there was a spike in the current going to the plug
Replace the rubber insulators on the coils.
Why don’t car buyers get bulletins or brochures about the check engine light. I am 70, and I never heard about the check engine light telling me anything.
Do cars not come with owner's manuals any more? My 98 chevy truck owner's manual has exactly the information Kenny related.
2013 Honda pulled the factory plugs with 261,502 miles on them There was not a huge difference between them and the new ones
probably needs a chain and tensioners up dated oil pump. as well at 135 k
I would like to know what happened with the oil problem you could see the air bubbles in the oil and the noise it made on start up. Did you recommend an oil change or something else?👍
Spark plugs on an Econoline are a pane with a 4.6/5.4 l don't envy you changing them
I found alot of ford the misfire in live data isn't accurate. I usually use a cylinder balance test. It's alot more accurate on fords
Good idea. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching!
Why are all the burned plugs on one bank? What's the emission system doing? Seems like one bank is running way lean.
I think you're right. It was running lean but didn't set any codes. The one plug that was burnt came out of a cylinder that wasn't even misfiring. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching!
That was a different kinda meltdown on #1 but when you showed all of the plugs....holy cow lol. There's something going on, those plugs are wasted no matter how many miles are on them. I've put well over 100K miles on plugs before and they've looked way better than those....but is a Ford you're working on lol.
High mileage on the plugs . Change them every 20,000 to 30.000 miles.
Could a higher than normal percentage of ethanol in the fuel be the cause of this? I know that the flex fuel engines from Ford are decent at adjusting fuel trim and timing, but perhaps the system didn’t recognize the concentration in the fuel and ran it lean like you mentioned.
It looks like the cylinders were over heating for what ever reason.
couterfeit motorcraft sparkplugs.
That engine must have been guzzling the fuel. Would a faulty fuel injector cause the plug to fouled? Or blame it on poor maintenance.
Hi K. Would your other scanners have been able to perform the same level of trouble shooting that you showed in this video?
i DON'T own a e-150 but a f-150 (2013) platinum. It has a intermittent rear camera issue. Someone said to "soft reset the Sync system would fix it. Can't find out how. Any advise?
That thing is running lean. That's detonating. I didn't watch the whole video because I've had a few drinks and it's just about bedtime, but I'd suspect failing fuel pump. I had an older Crown Vic towed to my shop a few years ago that was just tuned up, and fuel pump died a few miles later
Hearing them lifters clanging on startups isn't very reassuring! Something lurking for the future!
In 40+ years that's the worst plug I ever saw! (shade tree)
The bigger the spark gap, the hotter the spark gets
Looks like the engine is running lean??
Why take it for a road test when you see Cylinder 1 counting misfires like crazy @6:04? I saw 6 them 25 misfires in about 2 seconds? A bit more patience reading your scanner was in order before driving it with a dead cylinder.
Not making fried chicken. LoL
Please try to explain the following: While front end jacked up during oil change no engine light until I drove around to the front of my house and just before I parked in ft.....engine light came back on!!!?
Get the trouble code and reset it to see if it comes back with the same code.
Sometimes it's a hiccup in the system if the same code or check engine light doesn't return
I have mp special equipment. I just noticed it kast fall. I have no fancy devices I just know what I saw. In my view it'd not vritival. Thanks ya"]]!!!
@@davidweum huh? You can go get a free trouble code scan or borrow that rental tool
@@ricebike
I didn't know I could get that done for free.
@@davidweum AutoZone, advance Auto parts, O'Reilly's to name a few... They'll walk out to the parking lot
But only use it as a guide, it's not a direct diagnosis
once again, proof a tune-up should be done every 30K and not 100K+ lol
Is it flex fuel?
If u look u had 35 and climbing misfires on plug 1 before u even took off for the test drive
I think that you got your money’s worth out of that spark plug.
timing chains?
Nope. Never had a problem gapping any plug using a wire gapping tool.
He was not talking about using a wire gapping tool, he was referring to not wedging a tapered one in the gap to open it up. He recently did a video on it "Spark Plug Replacement, Gapping Tips & Figuring Out Why I Now Have A Misfire.."
If those plugs were original , they are begging for trouble . What about gas mileage ? Spend 40 K on a vehicle and do ZERO maintenance . It's like a light bulb - it's on or it's off . 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Bingo for all the people who thinks bad fuel. Ask me how I know.
That is a fake plug 😮
I would like to know what kind of scammer do you use. Or what you would recommend.
Instant 👎