This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
Thank you, I wasn’t exactly sure where to put the nailer. Your instructions were spot on!! My trim looks very professional with the new floor that was installed. Thanks 😊 again!!!
30 and 45 degree 1.25" nail and caulk better than how my home was originally built. Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18-Gauge works super for nails from 5/8 in. to 2 in. At first I went cheep and use hammer and nail set but it was harder to do it right. My home had staples on all 1/4 round so had to buy all new trim. Recommendation beg borrow or steal a Ryobi AirStrike with 2 in. nail you can put in windows frame or trim. Do not buy used or referb Ryobi AirStrike due to OEM QC issues.
I really appreciate you having this video I haven't done shoe molding in a while and I was just double checking to make sure I was doing it right you're very specific very informative and to-the-point I appreciate your help have a great day good luck on your project Michael Reeves
Good information. I was not sure what length or gauge nail or the angle to shoot it into the molding. Very helpful. I’ve put so much work into my project and didn’t want to screw it up here at the finish line.
Isn't your molding upside down? Isn't the long side of the profile supposed to go up on the wall and the short side of the shoe molding go on the floor???
It depends on what the situation is, like today I had to lay it long side down in a room because the base board I was laying against had a detail curve that the shoe went over and the shoe was too tall to lay the "right way" so I layed it the other way and it looked way better Other places you would lay it long side down is front door, garage doors, doorwalls and tile transitions. Sometimes you gotta lay it that way for it too look right
You sure can! Just use a small finishing nail. Here is a tip--use cutting pliers to snip off the point on the nail and when you hammer it into the shoe or 1/4 round moulding it will not crack or split it! Would love to have you subscribe if you have not already! Happy building!!
Do you have a video on the pro and cons on the different types of material used for 1/4 round and shoe molding? When I go to the box store there are 5 different types (poplar, pine, pvc, Styrofoam and MDF. Finally, what is the best way to attach them when there are steel studs? Thanks
The only thing I disagree with is caulking the nail holes. Once the caulk settles, you'll be able to still see the holes because it shrinks. You use spackling, holes will be invisible forever
I got the materials from Home Depot. Lowes also carries it. I like to use MDF as it does not shrink. I installed some moulding from a big box store and after 5 months, there were gaps at each seam due to the wood drying out and shrinking. MDF does not do that. Thanks for your comment!
pre painted shoe molding ? did you buy it this way ,or paint it yourself ? i have to reinstall my painted shoe so i have to repaint them , and buy new for other rooms what do you suggest i paint first
I like to buy pre-painted or pre-paint the shoe molding before putting it up and then caulk the seam between the baseboard and the shoe molding, fill the holes and do touch up paint if needed. That way I get nice crisp transition to the floor.
I just finished mine on top of cherry flooring. However, certain times of the day with temperature change, when I walk in the hallway, it’s now making an annoying creeking where it meets the hardwood. I sure hope that goes away after settling
Creaking always means movement between two materials. But what you can try to do is insert a thin Spackle blade underneath the trim and gently lift it up a little bit. That should relieve the downward pressure on the trim and floor. If you use the method where you put paper underneath the trim before you nail it in, that gives a natural space between the trim and the floor to minimize noise.
I keep reading that you need to leave a 1/4 inch gap between the planks and the wall/trimmings or the plank will eventually pop out due to temperature, however, I'm not seeing this from your installation. Thoughts?
This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
This is a really good video but I do feel a bit deceived watching an 8 minute video by the 5 minute handyman
Underrated comment
Best video ever thanks
ummmm why aren't you returnimg those sir? always return over back cutting
What is “returning” over a back cut ?
Good Video, however I dont use caulk to fill nail holes to much shrinkage.Have you ever tried painters putty for nail filling ?
This was EXACTLY the info I was looking for all in one video. Thanks! I'm installing vinyl planks in our bathroom, and I'll need to install shoe molding. I just needed to know the details of how to cut it at the door frame (30 degrees) and how to finish it off to make it look professional. Thanks!
30 degree angle is for beginners. Would be better to back cut at 45 and then take a small piece to finish to the baseboard
Nice looking house. Good tip to use paper underneath to protect the floor.
Thank you, I wasn’t exactly sure where to put the nailer. Your instructions were spot on!! My trim looks very professional with the new floor that was installed. Thanks 😊 again!!!
Thank You, I didn’t know how to cut the end next to the door frame!
Same here
6:53 - 7:07.... That's why the "L" in the word "caulk" is very vital to pronounce
I've never used to L in the word
“Make sure my caulk stays moist” 😂
So mature guys. Great job growing up.
Hey how much should I charge for installation per linear square foot?
Cut to door trim, called casing, is cut wrong and using quarter round and calling it shoe moulding all rookie mistakes!
30 and 45 degree 1.25" nail and caulk better than how my home was originally built. Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18-Gauge works super for nails from 5/8 in. to 2 in. At first I went cheep and use hammer and nail set but it was harder to do it right. My home had staples on all 1/4 round so had to buy all new trim.
Recommendation beg borrow or steal a Ryobi AirStrike with 2 in. nail you can put in windows frame or trim. Do not buy used or referb Ryobi AirStrike due to OEM QC issues.
Really nice vid excellent visual and voice add to your title 1/4 round due to the install is the same
Love the paper trick I will be doing that today
Nice work, great tips. Helped me out with my bathroom. A nail gun is the only power tool I'm missing in my arsenal. :(
I really appreciate you having this video I haven't done shoe molding in a while and I was just double checking to make sure I was doing it right you're very specific very informative and to-the-point I appreciate your help have a great day good luck on your project Michael Reeves
Great video love the caulk joke intentional or not😂 7:05
This was very helpful thank you! I used all your tricks and it came out great!
SUUUUUUUUUper helpful even several years later, thank you!!!!
Thank you for this video. This has been tremendously helpful!
Great video. Thank you.
She molding on stairs
I would prefer to hire you directly! I'm positive your results would be 100% better than mine.
Good information. I was not sure what length or gauge nail or the angle to shoot it into the molding. Very helpful. I’ve put so much work into my project and didn’t want to screw it up here at the finish line.
nice work. love the attention to detail...with the tiny bit of caulk.
What chop saw are you using? I like the quick positive feedback angle adjustment.
Parker Dutro it is a DEWALT 20V sliding chop saw. I love it!
Isn't your molding upside down? Isn't the long side of the profile supposed to go up on the wall and the short side of the shoe molding go on the floor???
It is ! Godd catch
Looks upside down but maybe this was the better option considering the short height of the baseboard here.
It depends on what the situation is, like today I had to lay it long side down in a room because the base board I was laying against had a detail curve that the shoe went over and the shoe was too tall to lay the "right way" so I layed it the other way and it looked way better
Other places you would lay it long side down is front door, garage doors, doorwalls and tile transitions. Sometimes you gotta lay it that way for it too look right
I like my caulk to be moist too.
I don't have fancy equipment. Can I just do this with a saw, hammer, and nail?
You sure can! Just use a small finishing nail. Here is a tip--use cutting pliers to snip off the point on the nail and when you hammer it into the shoe or 1/4 round moulding it will not crack or split it! Would love to have you subscribe if you have not already! Happy building!!
Do you have a video on the pro and cons on the different types of material used for 1/4 round and shoe molding? When I go to the box store there are 5 different types (poplar, pine, pvc, Styrofoam and MDF. Finally, what is the best way to attach them when there are steel studs? Thanks
7:04 😂
The only thing I disagree with is caulking the nail holes. Once the caulk settles, you'll be able to still see the holes because it shrinks. You use spackling, holes will be invisible forever
Hello..thanks for the video...
What size is the shoe moulding ?
1/2 or 3/4 ? Thanks
Excellent presentation. Just what I was looking for. Thank you.
Count up how many times you say uh and um. Bet you’ll be amazed.
where did you get pre-finished white shoe molding? What material is ur molding?
I got the materials from Home Depot. Lowes also carries it. I like to use MDF as it does not shrink. I installed some moulding from a big box store and after 5 months, there were gaps at each seam due to the wood drying out and shrinking. MDF does not do that. Thanks for your comment!
Exactly the video I needed! Thank you!
Coping corners eliminates caulking corners!
thanks, big help
Good clean work, 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you for this video :)
I dont use caulking to fill holes as it shrinks.
Nice work
Very informative! Subbed..
7:04 I’m glad your caulk is staying moist
Is that a brad nailer or straight nailer that your using?
what size brad nails you use?
Everyone watching this, make your returns on the shoe molding. Don't just paint the end like this guy. Lol
Perhaps for crown molding but not for shoe! 😆
Good video thank you
Cool tip on the bits of paper. 👍
Thanks, Boss!
Perfect, thank you.
The nail you shot in at 6:20 didn't hit anything. The molding raised up as you moved on.
might have been out of nails?
Thanks
Nice job
pre painted shoe molding ? did you buy it this way ,or paint it yourself ? i have to reinstall my painted shoe so i have to repaint them , and buy new for other rooms what do you suggest i paint first
I like to buy pre-painted or pre-paint the shoe molding before putting it up and then caulk the seam between the baseboard and the shoe molding, fill the holes and do touch up paint if needed. That way I get nice crisp transition to the floor.
Is it ok to install shoe molding the other way? As in having the long part on the floor
I'm pretty sure you can
Love that wood floor stain. Dark walnut?
Hi Grindcorey! That floor is actually tile!! But it is a dark walnut color. Thanks for commenting!
I just finished mine on top of cherry flooring. However, certain times of the day with temperature change, when I walk in the hallway, it’s now making an annoying creeking where it meets the hardwood. I sure hope that goes away after settling
Creaking always means movement between two materials. But what you can try to do is insert a thin Spackle blade underneath the trim and gently lift it up a little bit. That should relieve the downward pressure on the trim and floor. If you use the method where you put paper underneath the trim before you nail it in, that gives a natural space between the trim and the floor to minimize noise.
I keep reading that you need to leave a 1/4 inch gap between the planks and the wall/trimmings or the plank will eventually pop out due to temperature, however, I'm not seeing this from your installation. Thoughts?
It’s there, the gap is hidden with the baseboards