We bought a4-150 white& a baler & a bale wagon at an auction that was fun to back up& hook up. This 4 x4s are great if you need tracks on that you shouldn't be there. There great for 3 point hitch hook ups, hook one arm, turn steering wheel hook other arm.
Before you spit tractor make sure multi control pressures are where they need to be . We had a 886 that was doing the same thing and ended up being a pressure control valve spring was broken.
That stinks about the clutch. I hope you get time to fix it. It’s a really cool tractor and I hope to see more of it. Nothing wrong with running older equipment. If you are mechanically inclined, keep up with maintenance, and can get the parts it’s way better than stinking bank coupon books for new stuff that takes a rocket scientist to decipher the computerization. Sorry for the vent but I’m old school. Really enjoy your vids.
East of St.Paul Minnesota is the town of Afton. About 20 years ago it was either the city or township of Afton passed an ordinance called Right To Farm. So if a guy in his new $400,000 house on 5 acres calls the police at 3am because his neighbor farmer is plowing or harvesting, the police can tell him well that’s tough, your neighbor gets to work the field whenever he wants or has to. Goodnight.
Sorry to learn you may need new clutch. I am also surprised at how many arm chair farmers that are telling you what you need to do. I think you are doing just fine. I like your economic plan. You don't need every NEW piece of equipment.
I hope that you get the clutch ready, it is a very good tractor you have got. The field looks good even if it does not dust, hope that the harvest will be good.
I loved watching you work the 2+2 . I had the tractor as a toy when I was kid . My grandpa would buy toy tractors when we would go to the tractor dealer .
I used the diagonal disc work to level out the fields here after years of disc running in the same direction. worked really good. you can do the clutch because you got a wrench and you are not afraid to use it.
Hi I would think if that cluch is the only issue you have with your new but old tractor you have done good and in comparison to the payments on a tractor of the same hp that repair is no big financial problem I think running old metal on your operation with your skills is the way to go 😀
Put the duals on that 2+2, looks so much better. :P Putting in a new clutch isn't that bad, fairly simple and straight forward. We always did our final field working opposite or at an angle from how we were going to plant/drill. Makes it so much easier to see where you've been.
Thanks for the ride along. Yep, those LEDs really blind the neighbors. LOL Too bad about the clutch. It's not easy to catch all of the issues an old piece of machinery might have when you're buying it. Stay safe.
When I first started driving 4x4's (8630 and 8960 Deere) I was running 32 ft harrows and chistle plows running triple tires on the 89. Best tip I can give you is don't get near anything you could possibly hit such as fences, utility poles, other equipment in the field etc.... and just like driving a semi swing wide especially if you run at night.You can go back in the morning and finish up the ends. When you turn don't go lock to lock as this puts added strain on the ujoints and drive shafts. It will take a little time but you will get the hang of it. If the rest of the machine is sound and I suppose it is then run it till it stops and put a clutch in it. I have been in the same situation and yes it hurts the pocketbook but you have to have your equipment so that it is usable when needed. As far as the rain count your blessings. Here in Ga. we are in a drought with temps in the nienties to low hundreds every day with no rain in sight. I haven't had rain in several weeks. Pivots are running to finish the corn and keep the peanuts and cotton going. So I feel your pain but in a different way. Old farmers always told me "you can make a crop in a wet year but not in a dry one".
Yep read an old timer's comment on HayTalk one time, he said, "nothing grows in the dust!" which is true. Commenting on worrying about cattle having enough grazing during drought, and old timer said, "don't look at the pasture, look at the cows... if they're holding their weight, they're finding SOMETHING to eat even if the pastures look bleak!" That's true... cows know more about the pastures and what's edible and can find stuff to eat we can't see... Later! OL J R :)
I think a 2+2 and a payloader are the only 4wheel drive articulated machines I know of that you set on the "back half " of the tractor ,whole different feel than the more conventional 4wheelers! Hope you get a little drying window! Thanks for the video!
Yeah might wanna get the clutch checked out. My 1066 is doing the same exact thing. Got my 1066 doing light duty such as hay work until winter time, which is when I can take it to the mechanic. Hope you can get the tractor figured out bud
Nice! Sure looked like you were getting close to the trees... worried me you'd stuff a disk gang into the trees! Good job! Yeah, the drag harrows don't really like grass or excessive residue/trash in the field... tends to become a buck rake in those conditions LOL:) Nobody has time in their life for that sort of negativity! Later! OL J R :)
If it slips with the TA in high and low side it's most likely the clutch. You can check MCV pressure to the TA clutch packs if you haven't seen the lube warning light come on I don't think that would be your problem. Those are not bad to put a clutch in. The clutch is right in front of the cab behind the pivot point same as your 1086. If you have a good set of splitting stands and a concrete pad. I remember having those split before lunch.
@@boehmfarm4276 as long as you have some clutch free travel you need a clutch. The light comes on when you press the clutch pedal down because it dumps the oil pressure for the TA so it shifts better. Properly adjusted the light should go out when you let up on the clutch pedal right before the tractor starts to move. So the TA locks up right before clutch does. I don't remember what the book said but I adjusted the pedal free travel first so the tractor would start moving before your heal came off the floor. Then the TA dump valve like I said earlier. long 1/4" bolt on left side on MCV. Then I would adjust the transmission brake on the right side of the TA housing have someone step the clutch pedal down all the way adjust the clevis till the pin fits and then turn it out another 2-3 turns is a good starting point. Then start it up let the clutch pedal out to get the transmission gears turning press the clutch pedal down move the range transmission leaver to high you should feel a few bumps go by as the gears mesh. If it grinds turn the clevis out more. If it is stiff and hard to pull out of gear shorten the clevis.
You mentioned your turnarounds. No criticism here, just a suggestion. turn left to turn right and turn right to turn left. Think of making a shape of a light bulb turn around. And just a tick sooner. I find that works great for me. Feel free to let me know what you think about that technique. Happy tilling my friend.
Really sorry to hear about the 2+2. It’s just keeping you from going too fast across the field by slowing you down, right?? Kidding. Still never like to hear when a piece of equipment goes down. Everything else is looking really good though. Still love the sound of that tractor.
I ran long distance in high school and college after I made the high school baseball team look bad in tryouts... I might not have been the best hitter....
Well, it doesn't pack it on top. My only issue with a field cultivator is our ability to have thorough germ cover on fields in the spring. Long stem greenery plugs cultivators.
Will you fix the clutch or will you let somebody off the form fix it need to clarify with the tractor have to be broken half to repair the clutch I was kind a hoping it’s the clutch was on the engine
What makes these tractor's especially the 86 series hard to shift into reserve. In my 786 you always have to shift it into park wait a couple seconds then slam it into reserve. And sometimes it won't go so you have release the clutch wait a sec the press the clutch in then shift from park to reserve. Any suggestions? Also my clutch booster for leak too would that cause the issue?
The clutch booster leak doesn't help. If it leaks that fast then you've got a real mess. Make sure the detent rollers on the shift levers are oiled. Then check transmission break adjustment.
Story I heard was that you split behind the pivot, slide a foot apart and turn the pivot to show the clutch. This method should leave every hose and wire still connected.
Hope it's the clutch and not that goddamn torque... if it's the torque that's the end of the road because that's a 3500 dollar repair on my 1086 anyway...
@@boehmfarm4276 yes sir I do everything myself! I ended up putting a ta delete kit into mine. Comes from a company called A and I and it cost about 1300 bucks. Took 4 days to do it as you split the tractor then lift off the cab then remove the tranny then yiu have to totally dissasembel the transmission. When I asked a dealer if theyd donit they said no as the tractor isn't worth what the labour would be....
In the camera view I could not disk your field. The light bar would have to be on the tractor nose, not the cab top. This would not be a good choice for round bales but would be fine with a strong front grapple to load and move them. Two at a time would save much time over one at a time if planned correctly 1/2 the time unless each bale needed placed at a time on your wagon. In fact it would load a semi full as fast as your small tractor would load 20. Not 10 though
I wouldn't beat yourself up to bad.just get by with it if you can then in the winter put it in a heated shed and fix it yourself.its still a nice tractor.
So you got a break the tractor in half at the articulating point I watched a man in California work on one and he made the statement a lot of the 1086 parts will fit it Man don’t give up on it because that’s one meet tractor I had an opportunity in the early 80s to buy one and I backed outAnd bottle 4430 to this day I regret that because I just think it that’s the neatest tractor
@@boehmfarm4276 very true but by looking at the type of soil and my experience with subsurface drainage. good rule of thumb i had a guy tell me, if you have crawdad mounds tile will make you money lol
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 like I said I do like the older jds they were built to work and earn the money year after year my neighbor has 4430 2 6030 and of course 4020 tractors they run out perfectly I would not mind running any of them and have baled with the 4430 cab tractor with a quad shift I run case but these were the best in my opinion John Deere has made solid machines
We bought a4-150 white& a baler & a bale wagon at an auction that was fun to back up& hook up.
This 4 x4s are great if you need tracks on that you shouldn't be there. There great for 3 point hitch hook ups, hook one arm, turn steering wheel hook other arm.
Before you spit tractor make sure multi control pressures are where they need to be . We had a 886 that was doing the same thing and ended up being a pressure control valve spring was broken.
We had a 3388 with a similar problem and it was a relief valve spring in the transmission so I would also have the pressure checked
That stinks about the clutch. I hope you get time to fix it. It’s a really cool tractor and I hope to see more of it. Nothing wrong with running older equipment. If you are mechanically inclined, keep up with maintenance, and can get the parts it’s way better than stinking bank coupon books for new stuff that takes a rocket scientist to decipher the computerization. Sorry for the vent but I’m old school. Really enjoy your vids.
Only the smallest tractor and square baler are newer than me. I'm pretty fair with a wrench.
East of St.Paul Minnesota is the town of Afton. About 20 years ago it was either the city or township of Afton passed an ordinance called Right To Farm. So if a guy in his new $400,000 house on 5 acres calls the police at 3am because his neighbor farmer is plowing or harvesting, the police can tell him well that’s tough, your neighbor gets to work the field whenever he wants or has to. Goodnight.
Sorry to learn you may need new clutch. I am also surprised at how many arm chair farmers that are telling you what you need to do. I think you are doing just fine. I like your economic plan. You don't need every NEW piece of equipment.
Thank you, you truly understand.
Seen u posted this while I was on lunch today first thing I'm doing is watching now that I'm home. Thanks guys! Love ya vids
I hope that you get the clutch ready, it is a very good tractor you have got.
The field looks good even if it does not dust, hope that the harvest will be good.
Good video thanks for sharing
I loved watching you work the 2+2 . I had the tractor as a toy when I was kid . My grandpa would buy toy tractors when we would go to the tractor dealer .
I have always wanted a 1/16 2+2, but they are less common now.
@@boehmfarm4276 My oldest boy tore it up for me when he was little . I had quite a collection of Farm tractors as a kid .
I used the diagonal disc work to level out the fields here after years of disc running in the same direction. worked really good. you can do the clutch because you got a wrench and you are not afraid to use it.
I need a good rolling stand to separate the halves. But yes, I have wrenches and I will use them.
@@boehmfarm4276 - just one of the many things I admire about you Jacob. no walls, just speed bumps... :)
Some speed bumps sue feel Like mountains.
Hi I would think if that cluch is the only issue you have with your new but old tractor you have done good and in comparison to the payments on a tractor of the same hp that repair is no big financial problem I think running old metal on your operation with your skills is the way to go 😀
Love the videos
Put the duals on that 2+2, looks so much better. :P Putting in a new clutch isn't that bad, fairly simple and straight forward.
We always did our final field working opposite or at an angle from how we were going to plant/drill. Makes it so much easier to see where you've been.
Thanks for the ride along. Yep, those LEDs really blind the neighbors. LOL Too bad about the clutch. It's not easy to catch all of the issues an old piece of machinery might have when you're buying it. Stay safe.
I figured a TA would go before a clutch.
When I first started driving 4x4's (8630 and 8960 Deere) I was running 32 ft harrows and chistle plows running triple tires on the 89. Best tip I can give you is don't get near anything you could possibly hit such as fences, utility poles, other equipment in the field etc.... and just like driving a semi swing wide especially if you run at night.You can go back in the morning and finish up the ends. When you turn don't go lock to lock as this puts added strain on the ujoints and drive shafts. It will take a little time but you will get the hang of it. If the rest of the machine is sound and I suppose it is then run it till it stops and put a clutch in it. I have been in the same situation and yes it hurts the pocketbook but you have to have your equipment so that it is usable when needed. As far as the rain count your blessings. Here in Ga. we are in a drought with temps in the nienties to low hundreds every day with no rain in sight. I haven't had rain in several weeks. Pivots are running to finish the corn and keep the peanuts and cotton going. So I feel your pain but in a different way. Old farmers always told me "you can make a crop in a wet year but not in a dry one".
Maybe some of this NC Rain will it make to you
Yep read an old timer's comment on HayTalk one time, he said, "nothing grows in the dust!" which is true. Commenting on worrying about cattle having enough grazing during drought, and old timer said, "don't look at the pasture, look at the cows... if they're holding their weight, they're finding SOMETHING to eat even if the pastures look bleak!" That's true... cows know more about the pastures and what's edible and can find stuff to eat we can't see... Later! OL J R :)
Sorry to here the 2+2 needs a clutch i hope to see more of them over here in europe you rarly see anthing articualting
I think a 2+2 and a payloader are the only 4wheel drive articulated machines I know of that you set on the "back half " of the tractor ,whole different feel than the more conventional 4wheelers! Hope you get a little drying window! Thanks for the video!
Yeah might wanna get the clutch checked out. My 1066 is doing the same exact thing. Got my 1066 doing light duty such as hay work until winter time, which is when I can take it to the mechanic. Hope you can get the tractor figured out bud
Nice! Sure looked like you were getting close to the trees... worried me you'd stuff a disk gang into the trees! Good job!
Yeah, the drag harrows don't really like grass or excessive residue/trash in the field... tends to become a buck rake in those conditions LOL:) Nobody has time in their life for that sort of negativity! Later! OL J R :)
Love those Internationals. Thanks for great video.
When can you do a equipment tour of all your equipment?
If it slips with the TA in high and low side it's most likely the clutch. You can check MCV pressure to the TA clutch packs if you haven't seen the lube warning light come on I don't think that would be your problem. Those are not bad to put a clutch in. The clutch is right in front of the cab behind the pivot point same as your 1086. If you have a good set of splitting stands and a concrete pad. I remember having those split before lunch.
The light doesn't come on until the clutch pedal is pushed. I adjusted all the corresponding linkages as outlined in the manual.
@@boehmfarm4276 as long as you have some clutch free travel you need a clutch. The light comes on when you press the clutch pedal down because it dumps the oil pressure for the TA so it shifts better. Properly adjusted the light should go out when you let up on the clutch pedal right before the tractor starts to move. So the TA locks up right before clutch does. I don't remember what the book said but I adjusted the pedal free travel first so the tractor would start moving before your heal came off the floor. Then the TA dump valve like I said earlier. long 1/4" bolt on left side on MCV. Then I would adjust the transmission brake on the right side of the TA housing have someone step the clutch pedal down all the way adjust the clevis till the pin fits and then turn it out another 2-3 turns is a good starting point. Then start it up let the clutch pedal out to get the transmission gears turning press the clutch pedal down move the range transmission leaver to high you should feel a few bumps go by as the gears mesh. If it grinds turn the clevis out more. If it is stiff and hard to pull out of gear shorten the clevis.
For the amount you paid a new clutch doesn’t hurt so bad. Fix it and use for years. Thx
farmark - he has a wrench and he's not afraid to use it.
Have you gotten used to driving a articulated tractor yet?
That is a bad-ass tractor
Here in nelson county ky we haven't had any rain yet
i always like those ih disk they level good
You mentioned your turnarounds. No criticism here, just a suggestion. turn left to turn right and turn right to turn left. Think of making a shape of a light bulb turn around. And just a tick sooner. I find that works great for me. Feel free to let me know what you think about that technique.
Happy tilling my friend.
It's rained hard the past couple days here in NC
I heard some folk that way needed rain.
Big tractor for a small field come on over to Canada were we have 500 acre fields
What about putting duals on the combine
That would be too wide for the corn head.
Grain cart for the 2+2 at harvest?
Where is the clutch on the 2+2 how hard is it to tear into but at the end of the day fix it
Well good luck with the old 2 plus and i hope you do the whole thing when you do the clutch and do the TA with it that way its all good to go
Is the competition pretty stiff over rented ground up y’alls way?
Over 25 acres, yes. And this year with the thought of short hay supply, so is free hay fields.
Really sorry to hear about the 2+2. It’s just keeping you from going too fast across the field by slowing you down, right?? Kidding. Still never like to hear when a piece of equipment goes down.
Everything else is looking really good though. Still love the sound of that tractor.
What red light on for on panel for
That is the digital tach read out.
Saw your shirt at the beginning of the video. Are you a cross-country runner? 💪Keep up the good work with the videos!
I ran long distance in high school and college after I made the high school baseball team look bad in tryouts... I might not have been the best hitter....
Does not all the discing you do pack the wet ground! Do you have a field cultivator available? Ron
Well, it doesn't pack it on top. My only issue with a field cultivator is our ability to have thorough germ cover on fields in the spring. Long stem greenery plugs cultivators.
Will you fix the clutch or will you let somebody off the form fix it need to clarify with the tractor have to be broken half to repair the clutch I was kind a hoping it’s the clutch was on the engine
The clutch is back at the transmission.
What makes these tractor's especially the 86 series hard to shift into reserve. In my 786 you always have to shift it into park wait a couple seconds then slam it into reserve. And sometimes it won't go so you have release the clutch wait a sec the press the clutch in then shift from park to reserve. Any suggestions? Also my clutch booster for leak too would that cause the issue?
The clutch booster leak doesn't help. If it leaks that fast then you've got a real mess. Make sure the detent rollers on the shift levers are oiled. Then check transmission break adjustment.
@@boehmfarm4276 how.dovyou check the transmission brake adjustment?
Is that a hydralic trans in that tractor or a dry clutch?
Dry
That’s an easy fix you would be surprised fix to old gal up it’s worth it
do you take the gobro in your mouth to hold it if your turning or need bouth hands
Yeah, I'll hold it with my mouth sometimes.
one of the easiest tractors to change a clutch no need to split them
Where do you think the clutch is located?
@@boehmfarm4276 articulate to open it up ask any old school international mechanic
Story I heard was that you split behind the pivot, slide a foot apart and turn the pivot to show the clutch. This method should leave every hose and wire still connected.
Man when we had our 2+2 we lost the engine (but mind you that came with the farm and all the equipment were beat to sh!t
With the design of these tractors, the engine is very easily accessible, and I almost wish it was engine issues instead of a clutch.
How many Acres do you run
Between and I in various forms, about 225.
Hope it's the clutch and not that goddamn torque... if it's the torque that's the end of the road because that's a 3500 dollar repair on my 1086 anyway...
I take it you are not doing the wrench turning on that project?
@@boehmfarm4276 yes sir I do everything myself! I ended up putting a ta delete kit into mine. Comes from a company called A and I and it cost about 1300 bucks. Took 4 days to do it as you split the tractor then lift off the cab then remove the tranny then yiu have to totally dissasembel the transmission. When I asked a dealer if theyd donit they said no as the tractor isn't worth what the labour would be....
take some flat black to the muffler
In the camera view I could not disk your field. The light bar would have to be on the tractor nose, not the cab top. This would not be a good choice for round bales but would be fine with a strong front grapple to load and move them. Two at a time would save much time over one at a time if planned correctly 1/2 the time unless each bale needed placed at a time on your wagon. In fact it would load a semi full as fast as your small tractor would load 20. Not 10 though
I wouldn't beat yourself up to bad.just get by with it if you can then in the winter put it in a heated shed and fix it yourself.its still a nice tractor.
There eep be a video about the Boehm Farm shop cleanup such that we can do work in a less cold area.
That clutch won't be cheap - your going to change it yourself I guess
nice vid :)
So you got a break the tractor in half at the articulating point I watched a man in California work on one and he made the statement a lot of the 1086 parts will fit it Man don’t give up on it because that’s one meet tractor I had an opportunity in the early 80s to buy one and I backed outAnd bottle 4430 to this day I regret that because I just think it that’s the neatest tractor
Western Truck and Tractor Repair? Warren?
I'd regret buying a 4430 too. Lol.
You should look into putting some hydraulic cylinders on those wings they look extremely heavy
It's a disk 8m borrowing.
Boehm Farm o ok
Why don’t you plant in April and May and combine in October like all other farmers?
LOL.....
Do you live under a rock? With over a foot of excess rain coming in May-June,; April wasn't dry either, I didn't have and air boat to plant.
Boehm Farm you don’t have to have the ground so dry that it cracks. You want to have some moisture in he ground.
@@robertschweers4908 go back to mommys basement and the video games robert, you haven't got a clue what you're talking about
farm.central. ohio you all clearly are still stuck in the mid 1900s.
I don’t think the clutches are that expensive possibly like 200 bucks or so it’s just a pain in the ass to split the tractor
$200. ????
Brad Jenkins yea the actual clutch ain’t bad or at least it wasent on my 1086
Were is the 2 plus 2 we don't see it and you never talk about it anymore
It's patiently waiting to be finished. Mechanically all back together.
👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🐝
That stinks about the clutch...🙁
maybe you can adjust the clutch
I have the external linkage adjusted as outlined in the manual.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
International never had a good 4wd till they got stiegers.
go j green
why??
Because when it breaks, the neighbors won't see it sitting in the weeds.
all the field you show could benefit tremendously from drainage tile
It could benefit from not being a foot of rain or more excess for the year. And much of what you've seen is rented ground.
@@boehmfarm4276 very true but by looking at the type of soil and my experience with subsurface drainage. good rule of thumb i had a guy tell me, if you have crawdad mounds tile will make you money lol
like vid and bandit vid
I'm a deere guy but I have to say international built a better disk and moldboard plow.
And everything else as well hahahahaha just poking I do like the older Johnny Deere tractors but love my case tractors
@@jwhitley101whitleyfarms9 grandpa and dad had case 930 1030 1070 1370. Said they were great tractors.
The 10,20,and some 30 series jd’s were great but after that they not so great
@@jwhitley101whitleyfarms9 - a 1970 year model 4020 is the work horse here on my little farm.
@@SoybeanFarmer3300 like I said I do like the older jds they were built to work and earn the money year after year my neighbor has 4430 2 6030 and of course 4020 tractors they run out perfectly I would not mind running any of them and have baled with the 4430 cab tractor with a quad shift I run case but these were the best in my opinion John Deere has made solid machines
Why don't you replace that stupid car seat with a proper tractor seat ???????
It's on the list. Its comfy, but a pain to get in and out of.
Because its a piece of shit... should have gotten a Deere
Then I'd be rebuilding an engine and a power shift at 4000 hours.
I hope your not planting corn