Thanks for a clear, easy to understand video. My autostick was making a banging noise when shifting to reverse. I've adjusted it like described, and is much better.
thanks for the video..Not too many autostick clutch servo videos out there. this certainly helped me. I'm trying to bring a 68 autostick back to life. it's in really rough shape and hasn't ran in years.
It is also required to adjust the distance from servo rod eyelet to clutch rod clevis pin (center to center should be 40 mm). This is done with servo rod all the way in and loosening the pinch clamp holding the clutch lever to the clutch operating shaft and bring the arm to The shaft has fine splines and you may have to move slow. I also remember a 77mm measurement involved in this process but that may have been achieved in the adjustments discussed in the video
Hi! I recently bought a 1970 Autostick, it was running ok but I feel like the guy who I got it from wasn’t completely honest ... long story short, I feel like whenever I put it on gear , I kind of looses power and running on the road I have to press on the gas few times to actually feel like the clutch engage, if that makes sense ... I’m not sure if it’s the transmission going bad , or the clutch? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
How can you tell if your diaphragm is bad. I have a 1975 bug fuel injected Autostick. It grinds a little bit going into reverse but goes into low, first and second smoothly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott Mottaz Sr I think if you take off the hose that connects the the diaphragm and put your thump over the hole and try to pull or push the rod and it doesn’t move it should be good, but I’m not 100% sure
A test you could do is: Jack up the car on the drivers side enough for you to look under it. (Make sure to have jack stands in place don’t rely on the jack alone) Start the car and allow it to run for a bit in order to build up vacuum. Turn off the engine and have a friend move the shifter as you watch from underneath to see the clutch servo is functioning. You should see the rod push out against the clutch lever. You should also be able to hear an audible click sound and air discharge sound when the solenoid is activated. If it doesn’t move you’ll have to determine the cause. Some things to check/replace are: hoses, clutch servo diaphragm, check over the vacuum canister to ensure there aren’t any holes, ensure that the solenoid is operating when you move the shifter. Hope this helps.
I have an auto stick bug and It wants to Grind when you put it in gear. Do you think this is the issue with it? Do you have to push the stick down to put into gear?
The only time you push down on the shifter is when you are shifting into reverse. Gear grinding can be a number of causes. If the clutch servo rod is not properly adjusted then it may not be fully engaging the clutch lever, this can cause it to grind. Here’s a link on some more trouble shooting steps you can perform to help determine the cause of your issue. vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=33.0
Unfortunately the adjustments are also based on the clutch arm travel and the clutch disk inside the transmission. You won't know how much meat is left on the clutch when not connected. It's definitely an easy job when the body is off. Some people also install an access panel above the transmission just for clutch adjustments.
Autosticks are NOT for lead-footed slobs... I've had mine for over 40 years. You just have to know how to Baby them, that's all. Manual sticks are a bit more rugged and forgiving.
Thanks for a clear, easy to understand video. My autostick was making a banging noise when shifting to reverse. I've adjusted it like described, and is much better.
thanks for the video..Not too many autostick clutch servo videos out there. this certainly helped me. I'm trying to bring a 68 autostick back to life. it's in really rough shape and hasn't ran in years.
Excellent tutorial, thank you very much! I like your concise, no-nonsense way of narration.
It is also required to adjust the distance from servo rod eyelet to clutch rod clevis pin (center to center should be 40 mm). This is done with servo rod all the way in and loosening the pinch clamp holding the clutch lever to the clutch operating shaft and bring the arm to The shaft has fine splines and you may have to move slow. I also remember a 77mm measurement involved in this process but that may have been achieved in the adjustments discussed in the video
Buenas, excelente video. De dónde puedo descargarme el manual que muestras? Un saludo
How many VW Stick shift were manufactured in the USA?
awesome video great information
Hi! I recently bought a 1970 Autostick, it was running ok but I feel like the guy who I got it from wasn’t completely honest ... long story short, I feel like whenever I put it on gear , I kind of looses power and running on the road I have to press on the gas few times to actually feel like the clutch engage, if that makes sense ... I’m not sure if it’s the transmission going bad , or the clutch? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
check the entire vacuum system for leaks - learn as much info about autosticks cause they are a unique.
How can you tell if your diaphragm is bad. I have a 1975 bug fuel injected Autostick. It grinds a little bit going into reverse but goes into low, first and second smoothly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott Mottaz Sr I think if you take off the hose that connects the the diaphragm and put your thump over the hole and try to pull or push the rod and it doesn’t move it should be good, but I’m not 100% sure
what symptoms were you having, why did you replace?
I have a 68 bug that was said to be stuck in gear, i just aquired the vehicle, the shifter seems very loose.
A test you could do is:
Jack up the car on the drivers side enough for you to look under it. (Make sure to have jack stands in place don’t rely on the jack alone)
Start the car and allow it to run for a bit in order to build up vacuum.
Turn off the engine and have a friend move the shifter as you watch from underneath to see the clutch servo is functioning. You should see the rod push out against the clutch lever. You should also be able to hear an audible click sound and air discharge sound when the solenoid is activated. If it doesn’t move you’ll have to determine the cause. Some things to check/replace are: hoses, clutch servo diaphragm, check over the vacuum canister to ensure there aren’t any holes, ensure that the solenoid is operating when you move the shifter. Hope this helps.
I have an auto stick bug and It wants to Grind when you put it in gear. Do you think this is the issue with it? Do you have to push the stick down to put into gear?
The only time you push down on the shifter is when you are shifting into reverse. Gear grinding can be a number of causes. If the clutch servo rod is not properly adjusted then it may not be fully engaging the clutch lever, this can cause it to grind. Here’s a link on some more trouble shooting steps you can perform to help determine the cause of your issue.
vwar.org/forum/index.php?topic=33.0
Where did you find all the parts at.
I purchased the diaphragm kit from mid America motorworks but I see that they are out of stock. Aircooled.net has them or try airheadparts.com.
Cool thank you.
Seems like adjusting it would be easier with it out of the car
Unfortunately the adjustments are also based on the clutch arm travel and the clutch disk inside the transmission. You won't know how much meat is left on the clutch when not connected. It's definitely an easy job when the body is off. Some people also install an access panel above the transmission just for clutch adjustments.
I hate the vw autostick
Autosticks are NOT for lead-footed slobs... I've had mine for over 40 years. You just have to know how to Baby them, that's all. Manual sticks are a bit more rugged and forgiving.