That is a great series of videos you have there Ian. As a fellow RUclipsr I really appreciate the time and trouble you have taken to produce them. People don't realise how long it takes to make easy to follow professional videos. Thank you, we can all learn something from these.
Thanks, Tony. They do take a while, but I really enjoy making them. I'm a director/producer in real life, so this gives me an opportunity to mix work with fun. The fuel line video is one of the earliest in the series...when I intentionally limited myself to handheld shooting on an iPhone so I wouldn't go too crazy. Or course, I couldn't help myself, so the later videos have higher production values.
@@IanKarr The quality of your videos really shows Ian. When shooting my RUclips videos I always try to use multiple cameras on tripods. I have seen so many bad hand held videos with the camera waving about all over the place, then there is the hat mounted shots that make you feel really sea sick. I have found your videos on the 914 so helpful, thank you. Although I have had hundreds of cars in my time a different model brings its' own challenges. I am smitten with my 914.
Thanks so much for watching. If you like these videos, please give a 👍, subscribe and hit the 🔔 . I make these videos alone in my garage and your subcriptions motivate me to keep making them. I try to answer all comments quickly. Be safe and enjoy the addiction!
Thank you for the Video. I have purchased them and feel a lot safer now. The Lines at my car were the original ones from 1973 . To be proofed by the stamps on the metallfittings
You can get vapor lock with a 914 on a hot day if your fuel tank gets down to around a 1/4 tank or less. I have had it happen many times. The solution is to fill the tank half full or more and that should keep the fuel from getting too hot as it makes it's way over the motor and back to the tank.
While you had the chance you should have moved the fuel pump to the front trunk or under the fuel tank or in the steering gear wheel / master cylinder well area underneath the body between the front wheels. As need to prevent future fuel vapor locking. Which my car did from the day it was new. 1973 2.0 I still have the car. Cost: $5050.
Thanks, Perry. I moved the pump to the front on my bumblebee build, but left it in the original location on my green car. I've never experienced vapor lock, but that's maybe because the previous owner removed the bell from the heat exchanger valve and ducted it down.
In the engine bay, the pressure line should be the one closest to the forward firewall, the upper line shown at 9:38. Obviously not an issue if you have them swapped on the underside as well, but if you want to be consistant with the factory routing.
Thanks, James. Will check with tangerine and see if I flipped things inadvertently...or their directions need to be updated. Regardless, yes the pump output feeds the injectors and my car is running great!
Underneath the dark green repaint which is over a bright yellow repaint, my ‘73, Rusty, is the same color as yours. I plan to restore it to that color.
Thanks for a very informative vid! I'm trying to get my g/f's dad's '73 914 2.0L running again for him (been sitting for 8 years), and after cleaning everything up, changing the gas and diagnosing some stuff, I narrowed it down to the fuel pump. However, the fuel pump looks nothing like what you installed. It's the 3 port one. It actually kind of confuses me as to how it flows, but the way you have yours set up is a lot more intuitive. Just to make sure (because I'm basically going to copy this), is this the way you route it: Fuel tank -> Fuel send line-> U-adapter-> Fuel filter-> Fuel pump-> Feed line to injectors-> FPR-> Fuel return line-> Fuel tank Thanks, -Alex-
Thanks Alex! Glad the video was helpful. Man are you gonna make points with your potential future in-law! Yes, that's the flow path I used. The two-port pump is definitely the way to go. Plenty of pressure to make the return trip without the aid of a 3rd port on the pump. At this point, pretty much all the original stock ones are done or in need of expensive rebuilds. No need for a 3 port unless you're going concours. Here's the pump I used. Good luck! www.amazon.com/Bosch-69133-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZL8S2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512312376&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Bosch+BSH+69133
Hey @@IanKarr! Finally got around to doing this, and one quick quick question for you: Did you end up putting the tunnel fuel lines back into the metal tabs? Mine seem to want to hang out towards the top of the tunnel, and I'm a little iffy about forcing them down into the tabs. I'm also a little weary about them vibrating against those tabs. Thanks again for this video. It's ridiculously helpful. I did do some things a little different, but it was more or less the same. I ended up taking out the dual line grommet in the front, and it made it way easier to do everything solo. Didn't have to remove the pedal board either.
Alex Barron Yes, I secured the lines with the tabs. They shouldn’t fight you too hard if they were routed like stock. It’s easy to get the lines tangled up with the throttle and clutch cables...which may be what’s providing resistance. Best to either use a borescope or take off the pedal board to look down the front access panel and make sure the cables are clear. Good luck and be safe!
Factory fuel line for a 914 is rubber coated. Cloth covered line will be dangerous due to poor abrasion resistance. Probably less heat absorbing, consequently less/no vapor lock.
Never seen CARB cert. (as in video)on Germany fuel line? Metric fits properly. If your original rubber line lasted 30 years, why wouldn't you replace with the same kind.
Cool vid. Thanks. You cleaned tank, with......? I was thinking of doing mine when I pull my motor, was gonna use a few cans of carb cleaner and a brush of undetermined style...someone suggested a new toilet brush? Thanks for your time and effort in posting.
First I completely emptied the tank of gas. Then rinsed the tank with water and drained as much liquid as possible. What was left was a wet rust/sludge combo. I let that dry out on its own for a few days and then stuck a shop vac in through the top to suck the now powdery residue out. Then put several gallons of POR-15 marine-clean / hot water mix, plugged all holes and swished around. Rinsed after that and followed up with POR-15 metal-ready to keep further rusting in-check. This winter I'll be taking the tank to a radiator shop to be fully refurbished.
First I let it dry out for a week so all fuel evaporated. Then used a shop vac through the top hole to suck out all the rusty dust (do NOT do this if you still have a gas smell in the tank!). Once the debris was out, I used POR-15 Marine Clean, following their directions for fuel tanks. I chose not to coat the tank after cleaning. If I had to do it again I'd use Evapo-rust. Amazing stuff.
Thanks for the video !! I'm working on Mine but I don't know which hole they go in. My old line were removed before. I have 3 hole to the right of the clutch cable tube, can you tell me which two I should use? Mine had copper tubes ran and I want to change it out. Thanks in advance
I’ve also got a ‘74 2.0 that has a vapor lock issue. Have you run into this before, if so, any thoughts on fixing it? I have updated fuel lines already courtesy of the previous owner.
They don't rattle at all. They're designed to fit within the factory clips and grommets. If yours bounce and/or rub, you may be missing some of those parts. Here's a quick summary...rear firewall should have a round grommet around the supply and return lines and clips a few inches to the right which hold the lines in place. The engine bay should have two 45 degree angle rubber grommets that the lines pass through, and clips near the final curve to hold the lines in place. The grommets are easy to get through 914rubber.com. Not sure about the clips. Good luck!
I used the stock mount (or at least the one that came with my car) and wrapped some additional rubber around the new pump since it was thinner in diameter
It's up on a Quick Jack 5000 lift. Not sure about the brand of the stands...got them from the FLAPS and are just used as backup in case the lift fails. If the car were completely supported by stands, I'd use the pin type. Much safer than ratcheting style.
That is a great series of videos you have there Ian. As a fellow RUclipsr I really appreciate the time and trouble you have taken to produce them. People don't realise how long it takes to make easy to follow
professional videos. Thank you, we can all learn something from these.
Thanks, Tony. They do take a while, but I really enjoy making them. I'm a director/producer in real life, so this gives me an opportunity to mix work with fun. The fuel line video is one of the earliest in the series...when I intentionally limited myself to handheld shooting on an iPhone so I wouldn't go too crazy. Or course, I couldn't help myself, so the later videos have higher production values.
@@IanKarr The quality of your videos really shows Ian. When shooting my RUclips videos I always try to use multiple cameras on tripods. I have seen so many bad hand held videos with the camera waving about all over the place, then there is the hat mounted shots that make you feel really sea sick.
I have found your videos on the 914 so helpful, thank you. Although I have had hundreds of cars in my time a different model brings its' own challenges. I am smitten with my 914.
@@Qspecialman Thanks man!
Thanks so much for watching. If you like these videos, please give a 👍, subscribe and hit the 🔔 . I make these videos alone in my garage and your subcriptions motivate me to keep making them. I try to answer all comments quickly. Be safe and enjoy the addiction!
Thank you for the Video. I have purchased them and feel a lot safer now. The Lines at my car were the original ones from 1973 . To be proofed by the stamps on the metallfittings
Great! glad it went well.
You can get vapor lock with a 914 on a hot day if your fuel tank gets down to around a 1/4 tank or less. I have had it happen many times. The solution is to fill the tank half full or more and that should keep the fuel from getting too hot as it makes it's way over the motor and back to the tank.
Cool. thanks!
Thanks Ian, have a 75 1.8 that Im working on.. great video, was lots of help
Sorry for the delay. Glad you found the video helpful!
While you had the chance you should have moved the fuel pump to the front trunk or under the fuel tank or in the steering gear wheel / master cylinder well area underneath the body between the front wheels. As need to prevent future fuel vapor locking. Which my car did from the day it was new. 1973 2.0 I still have the car. Cost: $5050.
Thanks, Perry. I moved the pump to the front on my bumblebee build, but left it in the original location on my green car. I've never experienced vapor lock, but that's maybe because the previous owner removed the bell from the heat exchanger valve and ducted it down.
The engine sounds great.
thanks!
In the engine bay, the pressure line should be the one closest to the forward firewall, the upper line shown at 9:38. Obviously not an issue if you have them swapped on the underside as well, but if you want to be consistant with the factory routing.
Thanks, James. Will check with tangerine and see if I flipped things inadvertently...or their directions need to be updated. Regardless, yes the pump output feeds the injectors and my car is running great!
Underneath the dark green repaint which is over a bright yellow repaint, my ‘73, Rusty, is the same color as yours. I plan to restore it to that color.
go for it!
Thanks for a very informative vid! I'm trying to get my g/f's dad's '73 914 2.0L running again for him (been sitting for 8 years), and after cleaning everything up, changing the gas and diagnosing some stuff, I narrowed it down to the fuel pump. However, the fuel pump looks nothing like what you installed. It's the 3 port one. It actually kind of confuses me as to how it flows, but the way you have yours set up is a lot more intuitive. Just to make sure (because I'm basically going to copy this), is this the way you route it:
Fuel tank ->
Fuel send line->
U-adapter->
Fuel filter->
Fuel pump->
Feed line to injectors->
FPR->
Fuel return line->
Fuel tank
Thanks,
-Alex-
Thanks Alex! Glad the video was helpful. Man are you gonna make points with your potential future in-law!
Yes, that's the flow path I used. The two-port pump is definitely the way to go. Plenty of pressure to make the return trip without the aid of a 3rd port on the pump. At this point, pretty much all the original stock ones are done or in need of expensive rebuilds. No need for a 3 port unless you're going concours. Here's the pump I used. Good luck!
www.amazon.com/Bosch-69133-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZL8S2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512312376&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Bosch+BSH+69133
Hey @@IanKarr! Finally got around to doing this, and one quick quick question for you: Did you end up putting the tunnel fuel lines back into the metal tabs? Mine seem to want to hang out towards the top of the tunnel, and I'm a little iffy about forcing them down into the tabs. I'm also a little weary about them vibrating against those tabs.
Thanks again for this video. It's ridiculously helpful. I did do some things a little different, but it was more or less the same. I ended up taking out the dual line grommet in the front, and it made it way easier to do everything solo. Didn't have to remove the pedal board either.
Alex Barron Yes, I secured the lines with the tabs. They shouldn’t fight you too hard if they were routed like stock. It’s easy to get the lines tangled up with the throttle and clutch cables...which may be what’s providing resistance. Best to either use a borescope or take off the pedal board to look down the front access panel and make sure the cables are clear. Good luck and be safe!
@@IanKarr Thanks for your input! I'll be sure to do just that.
Love your videos. What was the tangerine parts number for this kit?
Not sure. But it's pretty easy to find on the Tangerine Racing site....
Factory fuel line for a 914 is rubber coated. Cloth covered line will be dangerous due to poor abrasion resistance. Probably less heat absorbing, consequently less/no vapor lock.
Safe hoses are a must!
Never seen CARB cert. (as in video)on Germany fuel line? Metric fits properly. If your original rubber line lasted 30 years, why wouldn't you replace with the same kind.
Where did you get the fuel line/filter/pump kit? Thanks Bob with a ‘76
Tangerine racing
0:41 ALWAYS disconnect the negative cable first!
Definitely. I wish youtube allowed me to revise and repost, but once it's up, it's up. Thanks for reiterating.
Thanks, Brotha!
you're welcome reggie!
Cool vid. Thanks. You cleaned tank, with......? I was thinking of doing mine when I pull my motor, was gonna use a few cans of carb cleaner and a brush of undetermined style...someone suggested a new toilet brush? Thanks for your time and effort in posting.
First I completely emptied the tank of gas. Then rinsed the tank with water and drained as much liquid as possible. What was left was a wet rust/sludge combo. I let that dry out on its own for a few days and then stuck a shop vac in through the top to suck the now powdery residue out. Then put several gallons of POR-15 marine-clean / hot water mix, plugged all holes and swished around. Rinsed after that and followed up with POR-15 metal-ready to keep further rusting in-check. This winter I'll be taking the tank to a radiator shop to be fully refurbished.
First I let it dry out for a week so all fuel evaporated. Then used a shop vac through the top hole to suck out all the rusty dust (do NOT do this if you still have a gas smell in the tank!). Once the debris was out, I used POR-15 Marine Clean, following their directions for fuel tanks. I chose not to coat the tank after cleaning. If I had to do it again I'd use Evapo-rust. Amazing stuff.
Thanks for the video !! I'm working on Mine but I don't know which hole they go in. My old line were removed before.
I have 3 hole to the right of the clutch cable tube, can you tell me which two I should use? Mine had copper tubes ran and I want to change it out.
Thanks in advance
Should be the two holes closest to the clutch tube. You can see them at approx 7:23 in my video. Good luck!
How long did it take you to do the job ?
About 6 hours
I’ve also got a ‘74 2.0 that has a vapor lock issue. Have you run into this before, if so, any thoughts on fixing it? I have updated fuel lines already courtesy of the previous owner.
The factory issued a bulletin recommending that the fuel pump be moved to the front to avoid vapor lock. That’s the best fix....
Do the new lines rattle? should they have some pieces of rubber line around them so they don't bounce and rub?
They don't rattle at all. They're designed to fit within the factory clips and grommets. If yours bounce and/or rub, you may be missing some of those parts. Here's a quick summary...rear firewall should have a round grommet around the supply and return lines and clips a few inches to the right which hold the lines in place. The engine bay should have two 45 degree angle rubber grommets that the lines pass through, and clips near the final curve to hold the lines in place. The grommets are easy to get through 914rubber.com. Not sure about the clips. Good luck!
Are the gas tank outlet tunes available? Thanks for any info
Not that I'm aware of. Try Brad Mayeur or Bruce Stone on 914world.com
Can you explain how you mounted the fuel pump to the firewall?
I used the stock mount (or at least the one that came with my car) and wrapped some additional rubber around the new pump since it was thinner in diameter
@@IanKarr I was wondering about the bracket that the FP clomp was bolted to ... looks like a 1' piece that maybe you bent a 90 on and mounted to ?
@@diablopcapresident8024 It was with the car when I got it. Seems like it would be pretty simple to fabricate, though.
june 2024
Yes it is :)
What jack stands are those?
I have a QuickJack 5000. Get the XL.
It's up on a Quick Jack 5000 lift. Not sure about the brand of the stands...got them from the FLAPS and are just used as backup in case the lift fails. If the car were completely supported by stands, I'd use the pin type. Much safer than ratcheting style.