1.2v NiMH batteries are perfectly fine for the Quest 2 controllers and provide more consistent tracking than any alkaline battery will. 1.2v NiMH batteries are officially supported by oculus. And those EBL are only 2200mah. They are rated 3300mwh, when you convert mWh to mAh you'll get 2200mah. It's a way for the EBL's to look better than the competitions hoping most people want notice or don't know the difference between mWh and mah.
So you say. Plenty of reports from others having tracking issues with 1.2v rechargeable. Then when you put them in the home screen reports them at 80% not 100. So right off the bat the lower voltage starts out low. So say what you will that 1.2v is not an issue but it’s your opinion. Why not just use the 1.5s and have no worries? .
I had picked up some rechargeable nimh batteries a while ago and I noticed that they were not 1.5 volt batteries but I didn't realize that was going to be a problem. over the years I just came to understand that some devices require higher voltage and for those devices I couldn't use these rechargeable batteries. I'm very glad to hear that there is a type of rechargeable battery that does get up to 1.5 volts. because yeah, I was surprised to learn that these AA rechargeable batteries that I purchased didn't actually have enough power under the hood to work for everything! 😮
You're misunderstanding the meaning of the rated voltages. Despite the lower nominal voltage, alkaline and NiMH have basically the same cutoff voltage (1 V). That is, devices intended for alkaline batteries have to be operable on voltages down to about 1 V, and NiMH is well within that range due to its flatter discharge curve.
Just another way to force the consumer to buy more crap they do not want or need and corporate America and China make a few extra penny's and force people to spend money we don't have...
The quest 2 is designed for 1.5v alkaline disposable which drops down in voltage. After 20% the alkaline has the same voltage as the 1.2v rechargeable which is why it reads 80% fully charged. At this point the 1.2v maintains a higher voltage while the alkaline continues to drop. So the alkaline is higher for only 20%and function just fine at 80% no different than the 1.2v.
New NiMH cells do need to be cycled a few times. Charged ones seem to lose ~16% state of charge after a couple of months but the self-discharging mostly flattens after that.
Those Li-ion batteries cost $5.5 each. You can buy high-quality NiMH cells of nearly the same rated capacity, from reputable retailers, for much cheaper. For example, IKEA Ladda AA high-capacity (regarded as premium cells), $2.25 each, 2,450 mAh * 1.2 V = 2,940 mWh. Chinese-made but name-brand batteries are even cheaper, and I've seen them rated as high as 2,850 mAh * 1.2 V = 3,420 mWh. I think you're misunderstanding the meaning of the rated voltages. Despite the lower nominal voltage, alkaline and NiMH have basically the same cutoff voltage (1 V). That is, devices intended for alkaline batteries have to be operable on voltages down to about 1 V, and NiMH is well within that range due to its flatter discharge curve. Li-ion batteries, at least if high-quality, do have superior self-discharge and possibly cycle life. However, NiMH batteries have the advantage of not exploding, in comparison to Chinese Li-ion. In any case, when buying batteries off EBay, expect to be scammed, unless you have the skill and time to test the capacity yourself after receiving them.
China rarely tells the truth if a lie will work and find more suckers, that's why many of us don't buy Chinese products, Taiwan makes high quality products, charges a fair price and does not rape and pillage the consumers...
3300 mWh does not equal 3300 mAh, its a marketing trick, incompetent people see the number and fall for it. 3300mWh/1.5v=2200mAh, that's if they actually meet their specified capacity, which EBLs usually dont
Thanks for the great video. I'm curious, does the Quest Battery indicator work with these rechargeables? Does it show 100% and slowly decrease in value or does it show 100% and then just die suddenly (since the batteries maintain full voltage until the end)?
It stays 100% for a long time but then starts dropping. But it does start dropping rapidly. Much faster than a dry cell battery. But it does not stay 100 then die.
Careful if wanting to recharge while still in the device.. a lot of these put 5v across its output instead of 1.5v when the USB power is plugged into it.. a lot of (if not most of) the loads will be fried with 5v instead of 1.5v. I'd remove them before charging, for this reason.
I deal with HomeDepot and dollar store yard lights , they usually come with batteries and the unit charges them, I’m designing my boat for USB rechargeable lights and tools, I picked up a yard light just yesterday at HomeDepot for under $7 , great light and last well into the a.m. , today I went back for 4 more, the batterie (1) is a 1.2v NI-Mh AA 1000 mAh
Hey, thanks for the video ! I’ve got problems over the years with the rechargeable AA I always wondered why they are 1.2 V instead 1.5 V ? That’s why i found your channel. I didn’t upgrade yet. Because I got like 20 rechargeable 1.2 V I got a question. Do you maybe know the best option Li batteries AA ? I mean best price value ?
They are 1.2V nominal because of the chemistry. The way the chemistry works yields 1.2V nominal. It's not a big deal in many cases, as alkaline cells rapidly drop to a similar level of potential and drop off more beyond that too.
The 1.5 volts Lithium ion or the 1.5V or Nickel metal Hydride seems like they will last longer because someone figured a way to save a few pennies and stick it to the consumer, what's new in that department??? I can find double AA rechargeable batteries 1.5V but NO C cell or D cell???
AA powered devices are designed to run across a range of voltages, most devices will run perfectly well on 1.2v and are designed to do so. Your controllers are no different. If oculus needed such exact conditions it would come with its own internal rechargeable. If you look up other videos the EBL’s they actually perform worse than NiMH eneloop’s, chinese made cells in general have quality control issues and also lithium batteries have to sacrifice space in order for the circuitry to regulate the battery. In sizes as small as AA they just are not competitive against other chemistries
All good... Run what you want. These lithiums last way longer and don't show less that 100% in settings. But I will say this. Open the door on your controller and look what the label says. 1.5V. So you can give your opinion all you wan't I will stick with something better than old school NiMH from tech created 30 years ago.
@@FinlessBob 1.5v is just the max voltage. Alkalines will drop below that pretty quickly, and like I said these products are designed to work typically down to .9v. You also don’t understand the actual capacity of these batteries and are comparing mwh to mah
@@Hazelrat10 like I said. Use what you want. The lithium’s are better overall and don’t cost much more. If someone was going out to buy today, why not buy the best choice? They last longer, give full 1.5, don’t drain slowly just sitting, etc. far superior than NiMH.
@@FinlessBob again, you don’t really understand what you’re talking about. You’re just repeating your own misunderstandings as reasons why lithium AA’s are better. LSD NiMH like Eneloops all have better capacity than these and the sustained 1.2 vice 1.5 voltage doesn’t matter for the application you have here. It’s also worth mentioning that it’s not 30 year old tech, lithium and NiMH batteries came out at the same time. However LSD NiMH actually came out in the mid 2000s, it’s a far better chemistry in the AA and AAA sizes because lithium needs to use space for the extra circuitry
@@Hazelrat10 Dude, you are now just being a douche. I don't know what I am talking about? Misunderstandings? LMFAO... Dude been in RC aircraft for 40 years using every kind of rechargeable probably longer than you have been alive. I have a degree in electronic engineering, You are just one of those typical people that argue just because. I know you bought NiMH and need to justify why right? Give it up. Tired of the stupid arguments, then the person attacks from fools who really do not understand! I will repeat. NiMH are 30 year old technology. Been around a long time. Not saying you can't use them but with the lithium's of today WHY? So get off it.
This doesn't make sense. So the Ni batteries show 80% because they only have 1.2v, I'm with you makes sense. But they dokt work right? But all other bstteries work even below 1.2v? I'm thinking its something else. Also Alkaline last roughtly twoce as long as the Ni snd ober that for lithium. So assuming a safe guess at 2x as much power it would take you 20+ months to get through a 20 pack of amazon basocs AA batteries assuming they last 2 months if the lithiums last you 1 month. Price wise you could buy roughly 60 alkline batteries vs an 8 pack of lithiums. So it would take you 60 MONTHS to BREAK EVEN. 5 years lol. Those lithiums sre going to be in the garbage by year 3 guaranteed.
Stop scaring people! 1.2 Volts (proper brands, not some Chinese fake) work super well on Quest, for 99% of games. I don't play Beat Saber, so can't say anything about "tracking issues". No need to spend extra cash searching for 1.5 V suckers. Just pay attention as NiMH drop their charge quickly at the end (you learn about it after the first run).
Scaring people? Dude get a grip. Specs from Oculus say 1.5. Open the controller battery hatch and see what the label says. Geee 1.5 doesn’t it? 1.2 being fine is YOUR opinion not fact. Want to make sure you don’t have issues? Just use 1.5’s and remove any doubts. BTW 1.2 does have issues like the controllers reporting only 80% on a full charge! Why have that crap?
@@FinlessBob I don't know what you mean by "your opinion". My opinion has nothing to do with the facts. I am using GP 1.2 Volt 2100 mah, at full charge the indicator is at 90%. No issues with tracking or longevity (and I am not the only one). Why should it bother you so much? If it works, it works
@@mitcherny6965 Many others have reported issues with 1.2V. Never heard anyone have issues with 1.5. Use what you want but the FACT is, Oculus states 1.5. Again open the battery hatch and look at the label. That's the facts.
@@FinlessBob I don't understand your obsession with "the Oculus hatch". All my remotes, clocks and kids toys say 1.5V. So what? They all work well with rechargeable 1.2V. This is REALITY vs. suggestion.
LMAO a remote is not as demanding as the controllers which run multiple infrared LEDs that are on all the time for tracking. Not even the same type of device for comparing. The label inside the battery compartment state 1.5V. Open your TV remove. It says AA or AAA batteries and does not state a voltage. The instructions state 1.5V. Does your TV manual state 1.5? Doubt it. This is becoming a ridiculous discussion at this point. I already stated you do what you want. I will continue to state why not just use something better. The lithium 1.5V batteries I talk about are superior to Nicads or Nickle Metal Hydride. They do not suffer from memory, over charge, low discharge protection damaging them, etc. They are not expensive and just better overall. If someone is going to buy something to use, why not just use the best and remove any doubts.
1.2v NiMH batteries are perfectly fine for the Quest 2 controllers and provide more consistent tracking than any alkaline battery will. 1.2v NiMH batteries are officially supported by oculus.
And those EBL are only 2200mah. They are rated 3300mwh, when you convert mWh to mAh you'll get 2200mah. It's a way for the EBL's to look better than the competitions hoping most people want notice or don't know the difference between mWh and mah.
So you say. Plenty of reports from others having tracking issues with 1.2v rechargeable. Then when you put them in the home screen reports them at 80% not 100. So right off the bat the lower voltage starts out low. So say what you will that 1.2v is not an issue but it’s your opinion. Why not just use the 1.5s and have no worries? .
Just more ways to sell something no one wants, something like stealing?
I had picked up some rechargeable nimh batteries a while ago and I noticed that they were not 1.5 volt batteries but I didn't realize that was going to be a problem. over the years I just came to understand that some devices require higher voltage and for those devices I couldn't use these rechargeable batteries. I'm very glad to hear that there is a type of rechargeable battery that does get up to 1.5 volts. because yeah, I was surprised to learn that these AA rechargeable batteries that I purchased didn't actually have enough power under the hood to work for everything! 😮
You're misunderstanding the meaning of the rated voltages. Despite the lower nominal voltage, alkaline and NiMH have basically the same cutoff voltage (1 V). That is, devices intended for alkaline batteries have to be operable on voltages down to about 1 V, and NiMH is well within that range due to its flatter discharge curve.
Just another way to force the consumer to buy more crap they do not want or need and corporate America and China make a few extra penny's and force people to spend money we don't have...
The quest 2 is designed for 1.5v alkaline disposable which drops down in voltage. After 20% the alkaline has the same voltage as the 1.2v rechargeable which is why it reads 80% fully charged. At this point the 1.2v maintains a higher voltage while the alkaline continues to drop. So the alkaline is higher for only 20%and function just fine at 80% no different than the 1.2v.
I notice you did not compare the 1.5V to Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium ion batteries not the regular batteries???
New NiMH cells do need to be cycled a few times. Charged ones seem to lose ~16% state of charge after a couple of months but the self-discharging mostly flattens after that.
The USB-rechargeable AA's i've got (lithium/lipo) last very close to 6 months because of the internal circuit constantly sipping from the lipo cell.
Those Li-ion batteries cost $5.5 each. You can buy high-quality NiMH cells of nearly the same rated capacity, from reputable retailers, for much cheaper. For example, IKEA Ladda AA high-capacity (regarded as premium cells), $2.25 each, 2,450 mAh * 1.2 V = 2,940 mWh. Chinese-made but name-brand batteries are even cheaper, and I've seen them rated as high as 2,850 mAh * 1.2 V = 3,420 mWh.
I think you're misunderstanding the meaning of the rated voltages. Despite the lower nominal voltage, alkaline and NiMH have basically the same cutoff voltage (1 V). That is, devices intended for alkaline batteries have to be operable on voltages down to about 1 V, and NiMH is well within that range due to its flatter discharge curve.
Li-ion batteries, at least if high-quality, do have superior self-discharge and possibly cycle life. However, NiMH batteries have the advantage of not exploding, in comparison to Chinese Li-ion.
In any case, when buying batteries off EBay, expect to be scammed, unless you have the skill and time to test the capacity yourself after receiving them.
China rarely tells the truth if a lie will work and find more suckers, that's why many of us don't buy Chinese products, Taiwan makes high quality products, charges a fair price and does not rape and pillage the consumers...
Thank you I'll get some of those 👍
3300 mWh does not equal 3300 mAh, its a marketing trick, incompetent people see the number and fall for it.
3300mWh/1.5v=2200mAh, that's if they actually meet their specified capacity, which EBLs usually dont
Well discussed earlier and I know that!
Theft is theft is that what you support?
Thanks for the great video. I'm curious, does the Quest Battery indicator work with these rechargeables? Does it show 100% and slowly decrease in value or does it show 100% and then just die suddenly (since the batteries maintain full voltage until the end)?
It stays 100% for a long time but then starts dropping. But it does start dropping rapidly. Much faster than a dry cell battery. But it does not stay 100 then die.
Careful if wanting to recharge while still in the device.. a lot of these put 5v across its output instead of 1.5v when the USB power is plugged into it.. a lot of (if not most of) the loads will be fried with 5v instead of 1.5v. I'd remove them before charging, for this reason.
I deal with HomeDepot and dollar store yard lights , they usually come with batteries and the unit charges them, I’m designing my boat for USB rechargeable lights and tools, I picked up a yard light just yesterday at HomeDepot for under $7 , great light and last well into the a.m. , today I went back for 4 more, the batterie (1) is a 1.2v NI-Mh AA 1000 mAh
Hey, thanks for the video ! I’ve got problems over the years with the rechargeable AA I always wondered why they are 1.2 V instead 1.5 V ? That’s why i found your channel. I didn’t upgrade yet. Because I got like 20 rechargeable 1.2 V I got a question. Do you maybe know the best option Li batteries AA ? I mean best price value ?
They are 1.2V nominal because of the chemistry. The way the chemistry works yields 1.2V nominal.
It's not a big deal in many cases, as alkaline cells rapidly drop to a similar level of potential and drop off more beyond that too.
@@AnnaVannieuwenhuyse Thanks for answering. I appreciate it !
The 1.5 volts Lithium ion or the 1.5V or Nickel metal Hydride seems like they will last longer because someone figured a way to save a few pennies and stick it to the consumer, what's new in that department??? I can find double AA rechargeable batteries 1.5V but NO C cell or D cell???
C and D cells are also 1.5v, and adapters are available to turn your AA in to C or D.
AA powered devices are designed to run across a range of voltages, most devices will run perfectly well on 1.2v and are designed to do so. Your controllers are no different. If oculus needed such exact conditions it would come with its own internal rechargeable. If you look up other videos the EBL’s they actually perform worse than NiMH eneloop’s, chinese made cells in general have quality control issues and also lithium batteries have to sacrifice space in order for the circuitry to regulate the battery. In sizes as small as AA they just are not competitive against other chemistries
All good... Run what you want. These lithiums last way longer and don't show less that 100% in settings. But I will say this. Open the door on your controller and look what the label says. 1.5V. So you can give your opinion all you wan't I will stick with something better than old school NiMH from tech created 30 years ago.
@@FinlessBob 1.5v is just the max voltage. Alkalines will drop below that pretty quickly, and like I said these products are designed to work typically down to .9v. You also don’t understand the actual capacity of these batteries and are comparing mwh to mah
@@Hazelrat10 like I said. Use what you want. The lithium’s are better overall and don’t cost much more. If someone was going out to buy today, why not buy the best choice? They last longer, give full 1.5, don’t drain slowly just sitting, etc. far superior than NiMH.
@@FinlessBob again, you don’t really understand what you’re talking about. You’re just repeating your own misunderstandings as reasons why lithium AA’s are better. LSD NiMH like Eneloops all have better capacity than these and the sustained 1.2 vice 1.5 voltage doesn’t matter for the application you have here.
It’s also worth mentioning that it’s not 30 year old tech, lithium and NiMH batteries came out at the same time. However LSD NiMH actually came out in the mid 2000s, it’s a far better chemistry in the AA and AAA sizes because lithium needs to use space for the extra circuitry
@@Hazelrat10 Dude, you are now just being a douche. I don't know what I am talking about? Misunderstandings? LMFAO... Dude been in RC aircraft for 40 years using every kind of rechargeable probably longer than you have been alive. I have a degree in electronic engineering, You are just one of those typical people that argue just because. I know you bought NiMH and need to justify why right? Give it up. Tired of the stupid arguments, then the person attacks from fools who really do not understand! I will repeat. NiMH are 30 year old technology. Been around a long time. Not saying you can't use them but with the lithium's of today WHY? So get off it.
I dare you to try this:
Ikea $7 4x AA/AAA dv/dt charger
Ikea $10 4x AA 2450mah nimh cells
🙂
This doesn't make sense. So the Ni batteries show 80% because they only have 1.2v, I'm with you makes sense. But they dokt work right? But all other bstteries work even below 1.2v? I'm thinking its something else.
Also Alkaline last roughtly twoce as long as the Ni snd ober that for lithium. So assuming a safe guess at 2x as much power it would take you 20+ months to get through a 20 pack of amazon basocs AA batteries assuming they last 2 months if the lithiums last you 1 month. Price wise you could buy roughly 60 alkline batteries vs an 8 pack of lithiums. So it would take you 60 MONTHS to BREAK EVEN. 5 years lol. Those lithiums sre going to be in the garbage by year 3 guaranteed.
Stop scaring people! 1.2 Volts (proper brands, not some Chinese fake) work super well on Quest, for 99% of games. I don't play Beat Saber, so can't say anything about "tracking issues". No need to spend extra cash searching for 1.5 V suckers. Just pay attention as NiMH drop their charge quickly at the end (you learn about it after the first run).
Scaring people? Dude get a grip. Specs from Oculus say 1.5. Open the controller battery hatch and see what the label says. Geee 1.5 doesn’t it? 1.2 being fine is YOUR opinion not fact. Want to make sure you don’t have issues? Just use 1.5’s and remove any doubts. BTW 1.2 does have issues like the controllers reporting only 80% on a full charge! Why have that crap?
@@FinlessBob I don't know what you mean by "your opinion". My opinion has nothing to do with the facts. I am using GP 1.2 Volt 2100 mah, at full charge the indicator is at 90%. No issues with tracking or longevity (and I am not the only one). Why should it bother you so much? If it works, it works
@@mitcherny6965 Many others have reported issues with 1.2V. Never heard anyone have issues with 1.5. Use what you want but the FACT is, Oculus states 1.5. Again open the battery hatch and look at the label. That's the facts.
@@FinlessBob I don't understand your obsession with "the Oculus hatch". All my remotes, clocks and kids toys say 1.5V. So what? They all work well with rechargeable 1.2V. This is REALITY vs. suggestion.
LMAO a remote is not as demanding as the controllers which run multiple infrared LEDs that are on all the time for tracking. Not even the same type of device for comparing. The label inside the battery compartment state 1.5V. Open your TV remove. It says AA or AAA batteries and does not state a voltage. The instructions state 1.5V. Does your TV manual state 1.5? Doubt it. This is becoming a ridiculous discussion at this point. I already stated you do what you want. I will continue to state why not just use something better. The lithium 1.5V batteries I talk about are superior to Nicads or Nickle Metal Hydride. They do not suffer from memory, over charge, low discharge protection damaging them, etc. They are not expensive and just better overall. If someone is going to buy something to use, why not just use the best and remove any doubts.
Very interesting video! Thanks... I didn't know you can get usb rechargeable batteries and I'm a tech dude haha
You are a good man.
Some would say great!