How to replace front wheel bearings hubs for a 2002-2013 MINI Cooper. Nearly identical procedure for rear hubs & for Clubman / Countryman! Get the hubs here: 2002-2006 front: Good brand: amzn.to/23is8Pq (single) OK brand: amzn.to/23isaa8 (pair) 2002-2006 rear: Good brand: amzn.to/1WzVjcn (single) OK brand: amzn.to/1QoYzGS (pair Axle nut: amzn.to/23iu1Mf Note: 2006 and later cars have M14 wheel bolts. Verify bolt hole size before purchasing. Most first generation parts will have M12 size holes. Or, use this as opportunity to upgrade to M14 wheel bolts! Manual Impact driver: amzn.to/1QoYnHw Torque values (2002-2006): Bearing hub to steering knuckle 41ft lb Brake caliper bracket to steering knuckle 81ft lb Break disk hold down bolt (T50) 20 ftlb Drive axle nut 134ft lb Wheel bolts 89 ft lb +- 7ftlb
Just went ahead and did this in my car, and your video was immensely useful. Got it done in less than two hours. I just had to get a 32 mm socket and an impact drill. Bonus is that now I see it’s very easy to do my brakes!
Massive thanks to you from me for this video - I've done this hub change this morning. Your video unlike others shows the sequence if no air tools are available. Worked a treat! Thanks again.
My big Ingersoll Rand rattle gun wouldn't rattle loose the spindle nut (it doesn't often lose such battles...). Because of that, I had a couple questions, commenting here in case it helps someone else with similar questions. The nut is normal or right-hand thread (not left-hand thread) - the video shows this fact, but I wanted to state it clearly in case you question due to it not coming loose. If it is stuck (which ours was extremely tight....), adding heat to the nut with a torch got us through (and a 3' cheater bar, and a helper standing hard on the brake to keep it from turning...). The advice is loosen the spindle nut before removing the brakes - there is no reason not to - and you may need those brakes in the fight.... Our bearing and seal had fallen apart, which ruined the speed sensor, so might watch out for that. This video helped us on our first mini project and was consulted prior to owning our mini. Prior to buying the car, we recognized it had a bad wheel bearing and unsure what we were getting into (shop fees were a bit scary...). This video helped us understand the complexity, from which my daughter bought her first car - a Cooper S. She then fixed it - a big thank you for making this video!
job well done again mod.doing my wifes r53 i had no idea how easy this was one was bad so i decided to do both...5 stars for you man you are my on line mechanic..keep up the awesome work.my wife loves her mini and knowing someone like you to take time to showing how to do the job right,has saved us thousands of dollars.just to say they wanted 600 for the right side to replace hub.i bought two hubs for 280.savings of 320 dollars...once again thank you so much for the time you put to show us how to do the job right.
I can't say thank you enough. I will be making the change tomorrow as my front drivers side wheel hub is bad. Your videos have helped me numerous times.
Thanks for the great video! I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my 2002. Could not have done it without your videos. Replaced my brakes a couple weeks ago with the help of your video on that job as well. Boy, those 4 bearing bolts were tough on one side. Not too easy to get to. And the droning noise is gone now! Thanks again
I just so happened to find out I needed my front hub bearings replaced for my 05 mini coop, great job as I plan on doing the work myself but didn't really know where to begin. Outstanding work as well as attention to detail for each step and what to be careful with. Looking forward to more videos in the future!
Thanks for this great video. I just got a 2012 that has a jacked lug hole, too jacked to fix, so I'll be doing a new hub soon and this video really set me at ease on the process. And thanks for the part and torque information, super helpful!!
Right after replacing the fuel pump and filter on my '06 MCS (using your video tutorial--TY!) BF says let's take if for a spin. "Hmm, what's that noise?' he asks... "I don't know, it's been doing it for a while. Seems like it's gotten a bit louder lately" I reply... Next up on the honey-do list, left rear wheel bearing assembly. Awesome videos. I feel safer with you showing us how it's done. Thanks much!
Thanks for this video - enabled me to get the job done on both sides on my daughters mini after it developed the classic drone/rumble. Hub bolts can be tough if corroded - had to hammer on a slightly smaller socket in the end but got them off. Took me 90 mins each side. Thanks again.
I have a 05 S 6sp manual, i have a whirring noise that seems like drivers side front, i jacked it up on jack stands stated it up and went though the gears and its pretty evident about 3rd gear and up, issue is i have a an exhaust leak right past the Cat and so its making it hard to tell if its the front Wheel bearing area or the Transmission, I did change the Transmission gear oil with no change in sound, its allot easier to hear the noise inside the car with the doors shut than outside, any thoughts? Thanks,
+Marc Matthews A wheel bearing would sound the same in gear or in neutral. Transmission noise will change if you put in neutral when at high speed. Wheel bearing noise usually does not change under acceleration or when coasting. Might be axle as well, but usually they last almost forever unless there is boot damage and the grease has leaked out.
Always enjoy the video quality, lighting and density of information in your productions including links in the description. Thank you for helping your fellow mini owner.
I do so appreciate your videos. This is at least my third repair where your instruction has saved my skin. Thanks for the thoughtful way you assemble these. Motor on!
+BigSteveRealtor This is probably a one time change in format - I'd love to keep nice stable video, but it's just too hard to work around the camera and still be productive. I may switch to adding the audio after instead of inline narration - we'll see.
Thanks so much for your instructional video. Changed both front on my wife's '05 Cooper S. Only thing I had to borrow was a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducer for my 1/2" drive impact wrench for the Torx T50.
Awesome, I ordered my set of fronts a few weeks back, been waiting to installing them because I haven't estimated the time and effort it took to replace. Then you delivered and saved the day, thank you. I have a very bad wobbling (+ some whining) sound when I drive and it increases by 500% when turning. I am thinking bearings or CV joint, I also have a grinding/rubbing noise on take-off but it may be unrelated issue.
+Birkir Guðjónsson Not very hard to replace. Noise when turning may be CV, especially if you only hear the noise (or it is much louder) when turning in one direction, but not the other. Perfect time to replace the axles.
This is a great video, thank you so much! I will reference it when replacing the bearings in my 06 R53. For my 09 R55 however, there is a slight difference in the procedure. To access the nuts holding on the wheel hub, you have to disconnect the lower ball joint and sway bar linkage, and the steering arm, so that you can swing the strut off and away from, the CV joint. Then you can access the bolts. Or at least, this is how it was in my case last night. It's amazing you can do yours in 6 minutes; mine took 4 hours!
I just replaced my hubs, outer ball joints, and lower steering column. The car started up fine, but the next time I tried to start it I had no luck. I bump started it down my driveway and got the ESC, ABS, and Tire Lights, but pulled no faults. The car still won't start. What do you think happened? Thanks for your time and all your good videos!
Yet again you save my ass on maintaining my JCW. Just did a sprintex blower install and the instructions were dogshit, but your videos make maintenance on my car so easy. This job is next.
just had my bearing replaced ............wish i had had seen this first.....you made this look easy...........where did you get your new bearing from and if you don't mind me asking how much was it regards Phil
And I should add: the links to parts and inclusion of fastener torques are the icing on the cake, sometimes I don't want to dig through my Bentley manual, thank you
SIMPLY AWESOME!! your video gave me all the info and visuals I needed and I was able to do one side in about an hour and 15 minutes, relaxing and taking my time. Thanks so much:)
Hey, watched all your videos, nice work. I'm currently trouble shooting a 2004 mini s with over heating issues. The heater is not working, no heat and blows cold air. It has a new heater core installed. Just curious your thoughts on moving forward and what to fix/swap out next. I was thinking new thermostat, flush the system, bleed, add new coolant? Maybe, water pump is bad or going out? Any thoughts?
thank you so much haha crazy that you already had a video planned out, perfect timing for me this help out way more than you know so thanks! ( im in florida so yeah everything is rusted and grimed all together
Hey Mod MINI, love the videos! They're super informative and make me more confident about getting one myself. I'm looking at getting an R53 Cooper S as a project car and daily driver and am expecting to have to do work on it (the one I'm looking at definitely has an oil leak which needs sorted). I was wondering if you could possibly suggest a list of essential core tools you would recommend an owner has for working on the car. Thanks!
First of all Great Video. I have a 2006 mini cooper S. I have notice when looking for wheel hub assembly, some states that they are for 12MM only. I have learned that some 2006 have 14MM bolt. Can you clarify which bolts these are, so I can determine which ones to get. Thank you.
hey mod mini, i did this last night and it went well.. but i was 'wire brush on cordless drill' cleaning the bit the hub fixes to before i put the new bearing on, and this morning driving to work my ASC light is staying on after driving a short while...do you think ive damaged that black bit that hangs down from the top in the hole where the axel is? is that the abs sensor? or combined asc/abs sensor?
Questions Would it be possible to fit a 2nd gen Clubman wheel hub that has 5 lugs to a 1st gen Mini that has 4 lugs ? Or What would be a good way to convert a 1st gen Mini 4 lugs to 5 lug bolt pattern ? Thank you Highly appreciate any information...From the very beginning your videos have been a great help for all Mini owners. BMW Mini should know this without your videos a lot of Mini owners would have been gone a long time ago. Just saying
Thanks for the informative videos. BTW I have knocking sound that comes from the front of the mini whenever I go over bumps. I'm wondering what could be the issue.
Hi Mod MiniFantastic Mini repair video's. Question, I have a 2013 Countryman. Can you recommend where I could get my hands on a good repair manual? One that shows step by step with torque settings? Thanks much. Keep on motoring.
+C Pat Bentley manual is the best but I don't think they make a version for Countryman. For engine stuff and a lot of the body/suspension, it's the same as in the hardtop so you should be able to use that one. amzn.to/1Mv8vik
Your videos are amazing, one of the reasons I just bought my 2006 R50 is because of all the resources here. Do you take requests on which videos to make? :) My output shaft seals are 'sweating' on both sides.
I have tried, but since the job change (I was laid off from my day job in 2014) I have very little time any more... I have never been this busy ever, and seems each week is more busy than the last. :-( I still do my best to respond to comments...
Your maintenance video is very helpful. I do not know how to maintain the interior. Especially, I do not know how to remove the A pillar. Is it okay if I take off with force? I am on R53, the previous term. I am poor in English and translating. I'm sorry if it was translated into bothersome sentences. thank you.
My R53 was made in June of 2006 but April was the 12mm to 14mm conversion date. My mini had not been converted to 14mm prior to buying it used. Please check this before installing to save a possible headache.
I'm going to be replacing the bearings on my 05's rear driver side. Is it necessary for me to use a caliper tool to depress the brake piston? And BTW great videos keep them coming. You're my first resource whenever I need to do do any kind of work on my mini.
I have a clunking sound when accelerating and breaking. Would you think that is something in the drive axle or motor mounts or wheel bearings? Thank you so much for your help.
They are held in by 3-4 clips and one 10mm fastener. You might be able to remove the clips by squeezing on the part you can see inside the bonnet, with needle nose pliers, as you pull back.
Thanks for all your vids. I'm considering a 02-06 generation mini for commuting. How do these minis do on the freeway? I want a car that is capable of spirited driving and doesn't cost too much in gas. Thanks
+The Evil Yard Ho How do they do on the freeway? They do just fine going 130mph down the front straight at the track - they do fine on the freeway. :-)
+The Evil Yard Ho If in doubt, just test drive a couple (more than one in case you are looking at one that someone didn't maintain) - but be ready to buy it because you'll be hooked.
+Mod MINI lol. That's what I thought. I've been a mustang guy for a long time but my commute is going to be 30+ miles one way now so I want something fun but gets better mpg.
I'm doing this to my 2003 cooper.do I have to drop the front subframe to change the control arm bush,not the bottom one,the big one that bolts to car chassis.
+Mod MINI that's what I was thinking. I ended up going win NSK hubs from autohausAZ.com. Love that site. This is for a base mini that my girlfriend drives. Just a point a to point b so should be fine... I hope haha. Thanks again for the great DIY
What's your favorite brand wheel bearing? We returned 4 front Moog bearings last year from my son's R53. Most didn't even last a month. I think they had a bad batch.
+Bad0scar The more expensive, the better... See video descriptions for good brand hubs. In a pinch I bought a cheap brand for a front hub - I destroyed it in under 6 months on the track.
Thanks again for another informative video Mod MINI, quick question: Would it be a good idea to save up for the "Good brand Hubs" or should I just get the "Ok brand Hubs"? My rear driver side hub is starting to drone
Thanks for the quick response, I dont plan on getting rid of my mini anytime soon so I would prefer getting the better brand. I can save up for the better hubs but that means driving with the drone noise for another month or so.
Have you seen a worn front wheel bearing cause for steering vibration? Slight vibe at 55-65 started with new JCW wheels & tires on an R53. Double checked alignment and balance. My next course of action would be new front wheel bearings and rotors. Jacked up the front and tested wheels for side-side play; nothing noticeable. Big disparity of pricing for wheel bearing too; $130-250. Any particular preferred brand?
Probably not, it would be really loud to cause that much play and you would have noticed it by now. Usually worn strut or control arm bushing. Kick the front tires toward the back of the car. If they move more than a couple mm, your bushings are shot. But if problem started with the new wheels and tires, that's what I'd suspect first. Find a new tire shop if they can't get them properly balanced on the second try. They may need to break the bead and rotate tires around to get better balance.
Hey Mod Mini, what is the typical play in the front bearings? When I grab the top of the disk and push/pull perpendicular to the disk I get about 3/4 of a millimeter play if that makes sense. I checked the rear hubs and there is zero play. The thing is there is no noise from the front hubs and I never noticed anything until I decided to inspect the brakes. No noise or darting around. I confirmed the axle nut is to spec. Does the axle nut compress the hub into the knuckle? Maybe I need to torque it again with the wheels off the ground. Great videos. -R
Should be almost no play. No difference from rear. Verify that the play is from the axle, not outer ball joints, inner ball joints, or control arm bushings.
Mod MINI I played with it for a while. It sure seemed like bearing runout to me, but I did not specifically check the bushings and balls. I will next time I’m in there. The front tires are wearing very well. At least the last set did. I just got new tires yesterday and driving in to work today they are darty on grooved concrete. The only exception was the old rear driver side tire. It had some inboard edge wear and maybe a little negative camber wear. I will pop the toe positive a bit. I think that will do the trick. Anyway, I’ll change the bearings or balls when I do my next brake job, which is pretty soon.
You have the best DIY video Mod Mini. I want to buy a 2006 S automatic at around 40 to 50 thousand miles. I'm a little concerned about the CVT transmission and what I've read online. Could you give me your experience with those and your opinion please?
The CVT in the base Cooper are terrible, but the Cooper S does not have a CVT. It has an Aisin 6 speed automatic gearbox. The transmission itself is strong but the valve body is weak. On many of the Cooper S automatic cars, they start to have harsh shifting after around 70k miles. The good news is the valve body can be replaced without removing the transmission from the car and it will make it shift as good as new. The VB costs about $700 at Revmaxconverters.com, and is replaced by removing the transmission oil pan. Revmax rebuilds these stronger than OEM and you should have no more shifting problems. Not a dealbreaker, just set aside about $1000 to budget for a replacement if it needs doing. Most any transmission shop should be able to do this work if you explain that it's just a valve body problem. It's the same transmission as found in many Audi/VW so that community might help point you to a good shop.
Thank you, I bought the car. I'd like to start upgrading the car with a 15% pulley, air intake, cooler plugs, and a muffler that has a nice note. Can the Aisin 6 handle 200 HP, and if so what would you recommend? I don't plan on taking it to the track. Just want to make it faster with a nice classic sound.
Hey you rock! Appreciate the time and effort on these videos. I'm changing a rear hub and am putting the caliper back on and have set the torque wrench to 81 ft lb but the bolts keep turning and tighting but doesn't seem to end and I keep waiting for a click but nothing. The amount of force is still the same throughout. I'm afraid of damaging sometime. I want to verify that it is 81ftlb or is the value for the rear less?
Yes they do go in. I can't remember if they are the large one but they are the two 13 mm bolt that sit next to the 4 bolts for the hub assembly. I'm worried I'll strip the head at 81 ftlbs. Good to here it's hard to strip the threads. I will go ahead and inspect them for damage
cimfur maybe my memory is wrong but I thought those are 16mm. Do you have the right bolts? Otherwise - No idea. All I can say is inspect both bolt and hole and make sure they are aligned.
Hey Mod MINI, i have a 2002 Cooper S, and I hear this semi high pitch noise when im driving next to a curb or a wall, coming from the drivers side wheel either front or back. But I don't hear the noise when brakes are applied. Would that noise be maybe a rotor issue or wheel bearing do you think?
Hello! I follow his longtime channel. I'm Italian and I have a R53 Gp. I have an engine problem with codes P1125 and p0638. Do you think the problem is the throttle body? congratulations for the channel :)
as i stated before in these comments i have now .... removed my brakes and right side wheel bearing for the first time.... the extremely rusted parts were a pain ....Canadian weather EH! problems encountered :- firstly the axle shaft locking nut ...tried to remove the fab only to find my slot screw end snapped of deep inside as previous person had re-dented the locking nut into the shaft all the way home..any way i eventually got it out and away i went mostly following your lead.......i did also break the ABS screw holder....yikkies i wished to take it out to assess the wear to it. and there bloody expensive to replace. and way so far had fun doing this all......on to the next car project. hand brake cables have to be replaced......on order........i hope and your family have a good seasonally times.....thank you.......
my 2003 mcs making noise in low speed, I thought something is lose in the suspension, but after I saw this video, I will consider check the wheel hub too.
Great video - what's the trick to getting the new hub on? I had to tap mine on with a 2 lb sledgehammer and the thread doesn't even show to where I can put the nut back on.
Thanks for the reply. The O'Reilly part for my '07 was 513309, but the '06 part they had 513226 fit my car instead. The splines were slightly different, just enough to have me beating my head against the wall.
I'm guessing you have a convertible which shares the prior generation platform through to 2008 even though the redesigned hardtop came out in 2007. Save yourself headache next time and just tell them you have a 2006 MINI.
Unfortunately, the holes on this hub were too small for existing wheel bolts, so I had to buy smaller '06 wheel bolts to put everything back together. Not clear why O'Reillys '07 MasterPro and Precision hub splines don't match the '07 vehicle's spindle yet the '06 does.
O'reilly is confused. Some 2006 have the same 14mm wheel bolt size as 2007 and later MINIs, while earlier 2006 and pre-2006 have the 12mm wheel bolt size. Since most first gen MINI use the 12mm size, it's possible that that's all they stock - it would be easier for them to tell the handful of people with later 2006 and 2007-2008 convertibles to get 12mm bolts.
I have a 2% crankshaft pulley and a 17% reduction pulley all from Alta I'm using a 60535 belt and on my tensioner tab I'm showing one hole now is that a good size?
I typically reuse unless it's too mushed to be able to put a new dimple to prevent it from turning. Some locktite blue isn't a bad idea but even the OEM bolts don't come with any. Not a big risk of coming loose if you torque them properly.
I notices something my tires are the factory ones and it's a 2005 Cooper s and they rotted. My question is if my manual transmission it never gets driven but every two weeks for less then 100 miles. I smell a burning rubber like transmission, do you think I should flush the oil and put a better quality transmission oil?
If you park in the sun, the UV will destroy tires over time. 11 years is a long time for any tire but they would last longer if you parked indoors always and avoid dry environment. Burning smell could be clutch or maybe a failing/failed crankshaft pulley.
Have you done the shift linkage on an 03 r53? If so, is there any tricks or anything I need to look out for. My Bentley Manual makes it appear to be "easy"...
Make sure you've removed all the bolts and just keep hammering, it should fall off eventually. Spray some penetrating oil on there and let it sit for a few hours first maybe. I'd be more concerned about the axle spline rusting to the hub.
***** Many thanks for the reply, still having trouble removing the hub. doesn't seem to be budging. Would worst case scenario be replacing CV drive axle?
Bolt's on the back are rusted out and rounded, find room very tight to access the bolt's themselves. What's the best angle to get to them, should I have wheel on full lock or straight ahead? PS great videos 👍
Try various orientations and socket extensions for best access. If you still can't get it out, remove entire spindle/knuckle and work on it on the workbench
Hi Mod Mini I have a 2006 r53 jcw , I currently have a big vibration problem when driving on the freeway at about 70Mph and faster !, I have recently replaced my lower rear control arm bushes with powerflex polyurethane bushes & I replaced the balljoints , I have also replaced the tierod ends !, can you maybe tell me what you think it is - Regards :)
Bearings will make noise but shouldn't cause vibration. If your car is significantly lowered, vibration can come from axles. Also worn struts can cause vibration. In both cases more prominent when accelerating when going uphill
Thank you for your reply :), Oh okay , the thing is my struts are also still fine , I assume it might also be uneven spots on my front tyres maybe due to the lower control arm bushes that i had to replace !?, cause I am actually due for new tyres and it looks like there are uneven areas on them !? regards.
Is the process similar for a 2010 hardtop (Not S) rear bearing? I've been able to find some videos for pre-2010 front bearings but nothing specific for the rear. Are the torque values the same also?
Alright mod mini I have a serious question. What is the story with the upper bumper fogs on R53s like in the movie the Italian job. Was it a special package? Just an option? And where can I get them lol I've never been able to find answers for them.
+Tyler Ostrum You mean driving lights? They were an option from either the manufacturer or dealer. Contact these people, looks like they can get you the parts you'd need? new.minimania.com/ss/EXTERIOR_PARTS,LIGHTING_NM
How to replace front wheel bearings hubs for a 2002-2013 MINI Cooper. Nearly identical procedure for rear hubs & for Clubman / Countryman!
Get the hubs here:
2002-2006 front:
Good brand: amzn.to/23is8Pq (single)
OK brand: amzn.to/23isaa8 (pair)
2002-2006 rear:
Good brand: amzn.to/1WzVjcn (single)
OK brand: amzn.to/1QoYzGS (pair
Axle nut: amzn.to/23iu1Mf
Note: 2006 and later cars have M14 wheel bolts. Verify bolt hole size before purchasing. Most first generation parts will have M12 size holes. Or, use this as opportunity to upgrade to M14 wheel bolts!
Manual Impact driver:
amzn.to/1QoYnHw
Torque values (2002-2006):
Bearing hub to steering knuckle 41ft lb
Brake caliper bracket to steering knuckle 81ft lb
Break disk hold down bolt (T50) 20 ftlb
Drive axle nut 134ft lb
Wheel bolts 89 ft lb +- 7ftlb
Thanks for the video!
Cheer's man, that helped a LOT.
Dude... So many years later and you are still the best.
Finally something I have to do without taking the front end off lol. Thanks a lot!!!
One of the best service videos I have seen. No fluff, great camera angles, tool description. Really well done. Thanks!
You are probably the most help ive had for my Mini repairs. I hope you never quit doing thorough tutorials on Mini's.
kasmos01 I second that motion! #Amen #True #YoureRight
Just went ahead and did this in my car, and your video was immensely useful. Got it done in less than two hours. I just had to get a 32 mm socket and an impact drill. Bonus is that now I see it’s very easy to do my brakes!
Watching this again with my morning coffee as a refresher. Doing the passenger front bearing today.
I really miss your videos. I hope you come back and start uploading. You had some of the best content around.
I hope everything is ok!
Massive thanks to you from me for this video - I've done this hub change this morning. Your video unlike others shows the sequence if no air tools are available. Worked a treat! Thanks again.
My big Ingersoll Rand rattle gun wouldn't rattle loose the spindle nut (it doesn't often lose such battles...). Because of that, I had a couple questions, commenting here in case it helps someone else with similar questions. The nut is normal or right-hand thread (not left-hand thread) - the video shows this fact, but I wanted to state it clearly in case you question due to it not coming loose. If it is stuck (which ours was extremely tight....), adding heat to the nut with a torch got us through (and a 3' cheater bar, and a helper standing hard on the brake to keep it from turning...). The advice is loosen the spindle nut before removing the brakes - there is no reason not to - and you may need those brakes in the fight.... Our bearing and seal had fallen apart, which ruined the speed sensor, so might watch out for that. This video helped us on our first mini project and was consulted prior to owning our mini. Prior to buying the car, we recognized it had a bad wheel bearing and unsure what we were getting into (shop fees were a bit scary...). This video helped us understand the complexity, from which my daughter bought her first car - a Cooper S. She then fixed it - a big thank you for making this video!
job well done again mod.doing my wifes r53 i had no idea how easy this was one was bad so i decided to do both...5 stars for you man you are my on line mechanic..keep up the awesome work.my wife loves her mini and knowing someone like you to take time to showing how to do the job right,has saved us thousands of dollars.just to say they wanted 600 for the right side to replace hub.i bought two hubs for 280.savings of 320 dollars...once again thank you so much for the time you put to show us how to do the job right.
Another invaluable how to. I changed both front hubs following your guide. Another job I probably wouldn’t have tried myself without you.
I just want to thank you for your step by step instructions on various repairs and replacements. You've saved me tons of cash on service.
I can't say thank you enough. I will be making the change tomorrow as my front drivers side wheel hub is bad. Your videos have helped me numerous times.
Great job man. All business and no fluff. Keep up the good work.
+Clint Mitchell I don't have time for fluff, you don't have time for fluff, this is better for everybody!
@@ModMINI Nobody has time for fluff
Very timely upload that I was able to send to a club member who needs to change his front hubs, good stuff !
Thanks for the great video! I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my 2002. Could not have done it without your videos. Replaced my brakes a couple weeks ago with the help of your video on that job as well. Boy, those 4 bearing bolts were tough on one side. Not too easy to get to. And the droning noise is gone now! Thanks again
I just so happened to find out I needed my front hub bearings replaced for my 05 mini coop, great job as I plan on doing the work myself but didn't really know where to begin. Outstanding work as well as attention to detail for each step and what to be careful with. Looking forward to more videos in the future!
Thanks for this great video. I just got a 2012 that has a jacked lug hole, too jacked to fix, so I'll be doing a new hub soon and this video really set me at ease on the process. And thanks for the part and torque information, super helpful!!
Right after replacing the fuel pump and filter on my '06 MCS (using your video tutorial--TY!) BF says let's take if for a spin. "Hmm, what's that noise?' he asks... "I don't know, it's been doing it for a while. Seems like it's gotten a bit louder lately" I reply... Next up on the honey-do list, left rear wheel bearing assembly. Awesome videos. I feel safer with you showing us how it's done. Thanks much!
Find your videos so informative straight to the point and easy to follow great job...
Thanks for this video - enabled me to get the job done on both sides on my daughters mini after it developed the classic drone/rumble. Hub bolts can be tough if corroded - had to hammer on a slightly smaller socket in the end but got them off. Took me 90 mins each side. Thanks again.
I did this!! Thank you for the video. Saved me a lot of money and empowered me to do more of my own work on my R53!
I have a 05 S 6sp manual, i have a whirring noise that seems like drivers side front, i jacked it up on jack stands stated it up and went though the gears and its pretty evident about 3rd gear and up, issue is i have a an exhaust leak right past the Cat and so its making it hard to tell if its the front Wheel bearing area or the Transmission, I did change the Transmission gear oil with no change in sound, its allot easier to hear the noise inside the car with the doors shut than outside, any thoughts? Thanks,
+Marc Matthews A wheel bearing would sound the same in gear or in neutral. Transmission noise will change if you put in neutral when at high speed. Wheel bearing noise usually does not change under acceleration or when coasting. Might be axle as well, but usually they last almost forever unless there is boot damage and the grease has leaked out.
Nice camera work/angles. Good Instruction. Great video.
Great vid, very informative. I am confident I can change the wheel bearings on my 2004 mini Cooper after watching this.
Thanks
You made it look easy, Mod. I'm not hearing any rumbling yet, but if I do, I know where to go for the refresher video on the fix.
Thanks.
Always enjoy the video quality, lighting and density of information in your productions including links in the description. Thank you for helping your fellow mini owner.
Quite why more cars don't use the complete bolt on cartridge bearings is beyond me! Much nicer to deal with.
Great video and some superb tips!
I do so appreciate your videos. This is at least my third repair where your instruction has saved my skin. Thanks for the thoughtful way you assemble these. Motor on!
This is the most helpful video for this repair I have found, thanks!
Got my parts in!!! Saturday I am doing the bearings! Woo hoo!
Thanks for another wonderful video. I like the format change, non mechanics eye view but please don't stop them.
+BigSteveRealtor This is probably a one time change in format - I'd love to keep nice stable video, but it's just too hard to work around the camera and still be productive. I may switch to adding the audio after instead of inline narration - we'll see.
Brilliant video! Thanks! Got the job done this morning
Thanks so much for your instructional video. Changed both front on my wife's '05 Cooper S. Only thing I had to borrow was a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducer for my 1/2" drive impact wrench for the Torx T50.
Awesome, I ordered my set of fronts a few weeks back, been waiting to installing them because I haven't estimated the time and effort it took to replace. Then you delivered and saved the day, thank you.
I have a very bad wobbling (+ some whining) sound when I drive and it increases by 500% when turning. I am thinking bearings or CV joint, I also have a grinding/rubbing noise on take-off but it may be unrelated issue.
+Birkir Guðjónsson Not very hard to replace. Noise when turning may be CV, especially if you only hear the noise (or it is much louder) when turning in one direction, but not the other. Perfect time to replace the axles.
thank you so much i was going to go out and buy a 5kg slide hammer to do do the job thank god for people like you
kev uk
+kev carguillo Yeah slide hammer would probably be not a great idea, you'd most likely just tear apart the CV joint.
This is a great video, thank you so much! I will reference it when replacing the bearings in my 06 R53. For my 09 R55 however, there is a slight difference in the procedure. To access the nuts holding on the wheel hub, you have to disconnect the lower ball joint and sway bar linkage, and the steering arm, so that you can swing the strut off and away from, the CV joint. Then you can access the bolts. Or at least, this is how it was in my case last night. It's amazing you can do yours in 6 minutes; mine took 4 hours!
The video is edited. It takes longer than 6 minutes.
@@ModMINI Yes hehe, I was kidding about the 6 minutes. Thanks for the response, and great videos as always!
My 05 has all the symptoms of a worn hub. Thanks for the video, going to do mine this weekend!
Excellent explanatory, very informative and detailed video
Just subscribed all the way from UK😊
I just replaced my hubs, outer ball joints, and lower steering column. The car started up fine, but the next time I tried to start it I had no luck. I bump started it down my driveway and got the ESC, ABS, and Tire Lights, but pulled no faults. The car still won't start. What do you think happened? Thanks for your time and all your good videos!
Excellent! Inclusion of torque specifications in list is appreciated, too. Thank you!
Thank you. Great help in changing my offside front hub assembly! :)
Yet again you save my ass on maintaining my JCW. Just did a sprintex blower install and the instructions were dogshit, but your videos make maintenance on my car so easy. This job is next.
Your videos are great! You have gotten my Mini running like new! Thanks!
just had my bearing replaced ............wish i had had seen this first.....you made this look easy...........where did you get your new bearing from and if you don't mind me asking how much was it
regards
Phil
As always, great video, seems like a simple job to do
And I should add: the links to parts and inclusion of fastener torques are the icing on the cake, sometimes I don't want to dig through my Bentley manual, thank you
I've got a clonk in the front bearing and a tick in the back bearing. Very useful vid thanks
SIMPLY AWESOME!! your video gave me all the info and visuals I needed and I was able to do one side in about an hour and 15 minutes, relaxing and taking my time. Thanks so much:)
Hey, watched all your videos, nice work. I'm currently trouble shooting a 2004 mini s with over heating issues. The heater is not working, no heat and blows cold air. It has a new heater core installed. Just curious your thoughts on moving forward and what to fix/swap out next. I was thinking new thermostat, flush the system, bleed, add new coolant? Maybe, water pump is bad or going out? Any thoughts?
thank you so much haha crazy that you already had a video planned out, perfect timing for me this help out way more than you know so thanks! ( im in florida so yeah everything is rusted and grimed all together
Great video many thanks, will the brake calliper and the disc come off together after you’ve removed the single hex bolt holding the disc to the hub?
Yes, and then the rotor will fall on your shoe.
Hey Mod MINI, love the videos! They're super informative and make me more confident about getting one myself. I'm looking at getting an R53 Cooper S as a project car and daily driver and am expecting to have to do work on it (the one I'm looking at definitely has an oil leak which needs sorted). I was wondering if you could possibly suggest a list of essential core tools you would recommend an owner has for working on the car.
Thanks!
First of all Great Video. I have a 2006 mini cooper S. I have notice when looking for wheel hub assembly, some states that they are for 12MM only. I have learned that some 2006 have 14MM bolt. Can you clarify which bolts these are, so I can determine which ones to get. Thank you.
+Dr Jose Hernandez Just remove one bolt and measure the thread diameter. If it's 14mm, you have a 14mm bolt. If not, you have a 12mm bolt.
hey mod mini, i did this last night and it went well.. but i was 'wire brush on cordless drill' cleaning the bit the hub fixes to before i put the new bearing on, and this morning driving to work my ASC light is staying on after driving a short while...do you think ive damaged that black bit that hangs down from the top in the hole where the axel is? is that the abs sensor? or combined asc/abs sensor?
Been over a year since you've uploaded a video! Still have the car? Any plans for future videos?
Still have the car but I have no free time any more. Will try to make some videos but no guarantees...
Mod MINI if you have any time, o2 sensor change video would be amazing 😉
Great video. No wasted time. Right to the point. I appreciate you not wasting my time with crap. You got a thumbs up and a subscribe from me.
Questions Would it be possible to fit a 2nd gen Clubman wheel hub that has 5 lugs to a 1st gen Mini that has 4 lugs ?
Or What would be a good way to convert a 1st gen Mini 4 lugs to 5 lug bolt pattern ? Thank you Highly appreciate any information...From the very beginning your videos have been a great help for all Mini owners. BMW Mini should know this without your videos a lot of Mini owners would have been gone a long time ago. Just saying
Thanks for the informative videos. BTW I have knocking sound that comes from the front of the mini whenever I go over bumps. I'm wondering what could be the issue.
+Brandon Beasley Ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, strut tower bearings or worn shocks.
Perfectly presented as usual. 👍👍👍
Hi Mod MiniFantastic Mini repair video's. Question, I have a 2013 Countryman. Can you recommend where I could get my hands on a good repair manual? One that shows step by step with torque settings? Thanks much. Keep on motoring.
+C Pat Bentley manual is the best but I don't think they make a version for Countryman. For engine stuff and a lot of the body/suspension, it's the same as in the hardtop so you should be able to use that one. amzn.to/1Mv8vik
Your videos are amazing, one of the reasons I just bought my 2006 R50 is because of all the resources here.
Do you take requests on which videos to make? :) My output shaft seals are 'sweating' on both sides.
+Evan Eustace If I do this job I'll record it.
Great video full of information keep it up mate
So are you ever going to post again Mod Mini? I've been waiting for months for a repair video I always liked your videos
I have tried, but since the job change (I was laid off from my day job in 2014) I have very little time any more... I have never been this busy ever, and seems each week is more busy than the last. :-( I still do my best to respond to comments...
Your maintenance video is very helpful.
I do not know how to maintain the interior. Especially,
I do not know how to remove the A pillar. Is it okay if I take off with force? I am on R53,
the previous term. I am poor in English and translating.
I'm sorry if it was translated into bothersome sentences.
thank you.
My R53 was made in June of 2006 but April was the 12mm to 14mm conversion date. My mini had not been converted to 14mm prior to buying it used. Please check this before installing to save a possible headache.
I'm going to be replacing the bearings on my 05's rear driver side. Is it necessary for me to use a caliper tool to depress the brake piston?
And BTW great videos keep them coming. You're my first resource whenever I need to do do any kind of work on my mini.
No. I just use a big screwdriver.
I have a clunking sound when accelerating and breaking. Would you think that is something in the drive axle or motor mounts or wheel bearings? Thank you so much for your help.
No way to tell without seeing the car. Possibly bushings.
Great video! Do you know (or if you can put it on a video) how to replace a front wheel arch?
Thanks a lot in advance!!!
They are held in by 3-4 clips and one 10mm fastener. You might be able to remove the clips by squeezing on the part you can see inside the bonnet, with needle nose pliers, as you pull back.
Thanks for all your vids. I'm considering a 02-06 generation mini for commuting. How do these minis do on the freeway? I want a car that is capable of spirited driving and doesn't cost too much in gas. Thanks
+The Evil Yard Ho How do they do on the freeway? They do just fine going 130mph down the front straight at the track - they do fine on the freeway. :-)
+The Evil Yard Ho If in doubt, just test drive a couple (more than one in case you are looking at one that someone didn't maintain) - but be ready to buy it because you'll be hooked.
+Mod MINI lol. That's what I thought. I've been a mustang guy for a long time but my commute is going to be 30+ miles one way now so I want something fun but gets better mpg.
I'm doing this to my 2003 cooper.do I have to drop the front subframe to change the control arm bush,not the bottom one,the big one that bolts to car chassis.
will the okay brand last a few years atlas? or should i go ahead with the timken brand? thanks for video and links as well. absolutely awesome!
I guess it depends how valuable is your time. Should be OK but could wear out fast especially if you drive the car hard.
+Mod MINI that's what I was thinking. I ended up going win NSK hubs from autohausAZ.com. Love that site. This is for a base mini that my girlfriend drives. Just a point a to point b so should be fine... I hope haha. Thanks again for the great DIY
Thanks again for all the help and videos!
What's your favorite brand wheel bearing? We returned 4 front Moog bearings last year from my son's R53. Most didn't even last a month. I think they had a bad batch.
+Bad0scar The more expensive, the better... See video descriptions for good brand hubs. In a pinch I bought a cheap brand for a front hub - I destroyed it in under 6 months on the track.
Would this affect wheel alignment? Thanks
Fantastic as always!
PS can you do a coolant change vid for a Mini Cooper if you haven't already.. cheers
Thanks again for another informative video Mod MINI, quick question: Would it be a good idea to save up for the "Good brand Hubs" or should I just get the "Ok brand Hubs"? My rear driver side hub is starting to drone
+Noel Cuevas That depends on how much time you have versus how much money you have. Also, how long you plan to keep the car.
Thanks for the quick response, I dont plan on getting rid of my mini anytime soon so I would prefer getting the better brand. I can save up for the better hubs but that means driving with the drone noise for another month or so.
Thanks Mod Mini - You rock as usual.
Great video! Do you have a shop I could take my Mini Cooper to?
Washington state
Have you seen a worn front wheel bearing cause for steering vibration? Slight vibe at 55-65 started with new JCW wheels & tires on an R53. Double checked alignment and balance. My next course of action would be new front wheel bearings and rotors. Jacked up the front and tested wheels for side-side play; nothing noticeable. Big disparity of pricing for wheel bearing too; $130-250. Any particular preferred brand?
Probably not, it would be really loud to cause that much play and you would have noticed it by now. Usually worn strut or control arm bushing. Kick the front tires toward the back of the car. If they move more than a couple mm, your bushings are shot. But if problem started with the new wheels and tires, that's what I'd suspect first. Find a new tire shop if they can't get them properly balanced on the second try. They may need to break the bead and rotate tires around to get better balance.
Just done my mini thank you for a great video
Hey Mod Mini, what is the typical play in the front bearings? When I grab the top of the disk and push/pull perpendicular to the disk I get about 3/4 of a millimeter play if that makes sense. I checked the rear hubs and there is zero play. The thing is there is no noise from the front hubs and I never noticed anything until I decided to inspect the brakes. No noise or darting around. I confirmed the axle nut is to spec. Does the axle nut compress the hub into the knuckle? Maybe I need to torque it again with the wheels off the ground.
Great videos.
-R
Should be almost no play. No difference from rear. Verify that the play is from the axle, not outer ball joints, inner ball joints, or control arm bushings.
Mod MINI I played with it for a while. It sure seemed like bearing runout to me, but I did not specifically check the bushings and balls. I will next time I’m in there. The front tires are wearing very well. At least the last set did. I just got new tires yesterday and driving in to work today they are darty on grooved concrete. The only exception was the old rear driver side tire. It had some inboard edge wear and maybe a little negative camber wear. I will pop the toe positive a bit. I think that will do the trick.
Anyway, I’ll change the bearings or balls when I do my next brake job, which is pretty soon.
Thanks so much for the video it was much appreciated
You have the best DIY video Mod Mini. I want to buy a 2006 S automatic at around 40 to 50 thousand miles. I'm a little concerned about the CVT transmission and what I've read online. Could you give me your experience with those and your opinion please?
The CVT in the base Cooper are terrible, but the Cooper S does not have a CVT. It has an Aisin 6 speed automatic gearbox. The transmission itself is strong but the valve body is weak. On many of the Cooper S automatic cars, they start to have harsh shifting after around 70k miles. The good news is the valve body can be replaced without removing the transmission from the car and it will make it shift as good as new. The VB costs about $700 at Revmaxconverters.com, and is replaced by removing the transmission oil pan. Revmax rebuilds these stronger than OEM and you should have no more shifting problems. Not a dealbreaker, just set aside about $1000 to budget for a replacement if it needs doing. Most any transmission shop should be able to do this work if you explain that it's just a valve body problem. It's the same transmission as found in many Audi/VW so that community might help point you to a good shop.
Thank you, I bought the car. I'd like to start upgrading the car with a 15% pulley, air intake, cooler plugs, and a muffler that has a nice note. Can the Aisin 6 handle 200 HP, and if so what would you recommend? I don't plan on taking it to the track. Just want to make it faster with a nice classic sound.
I don't know what the automatic transmission can handle. 200HP would be around the limit I would guess.
Hey you rock! Appreciate the time and effort on these videos. I'm changing a rear hub and am putting the caliper back on and have set the torque wrench to 81 ft lb but the bolts keep turning and tighting but doesn't seem to end and I keep waiting for a click but nothing. The amount of force is still the same throughout. I'm afraid of damaging sometime. I want to verify that it is 81ftlb or is the value for the rear less?
cimfur which bolt?
Mod MINI hope I'm using the correct terminology. Both carrier bracket bolts. Not the guides.
The big ones? Inspect the bolts and the holes for damage. Those are nearly impossible to strip. Is the bolt actually going in the hole?
Yes they do go in. I can't remember if they are the large one but they are the two 13 mm bolt that sit next to the 4 bolts for the hub assembly. I'm worried I'll strip the head at 81 ftlbs. Good to here it's hard to strip the threads. I will go ahead and inspect them for damage
cimfur maybe my memory is wrong but I thought those are 16mm. Do you have the right bolts? Otherwise - No idea. All I can say is inspect both bolt and hole and make sure they are aligned.
Hey Mod MINI, i have a 2002 Cooper S, and I hear this semi high pitch noise when im driving next to a curb or a wall, coming from the drivers side wheel either front or back. But I don't hear the noise when brakes are applied. Would that noise be maybe a rotor issue or wheel bearing do you think?
+Chris Rosanio If the noise goes away even with very very light braking, it's probably brake related.
Hello! I follow his longtime channel. I'm Italian and I have a R53 Gp. I have an engine problem with codes P1125 and p0638. Do you think the problem is the throttle body? congratulations for the channel :)
as i stated before in these comments i have now .... removed my brakes and right side wheel bearing for the first time.... the extremely rusted parts were a pain ....Canadian weather EH! problems encountered :- firstly the axle shaft locking nut ...tried to remove the fab only to find my slot screw end snapped of deep inside as previous person had re-dented the locking nut into the shaft all the way home..any way i eventually got it out and away i went mostly following your lead.......i did also break the ABS screw holder....yikkies i wished to take it out to assess the wear to it. and there bloody expensive to replace.
and way so far had fun doing this all......on to the next car project. hand brake cables have to be replaced......on order........i hope and your family have a good seasonally times.....thank you.......
my 2003 mcs making noise in low speed, I thought something is lose in the suspension, but after I saw this video, I will consider check the wheel hub too.
Great video - what's the trick to getting the new hub on? I had to tap mine on with a 2 lb sledgehammer and the thread doesn't even show to where I can put the nut back on.
It should slide right on. You might need to clean up any residual corrosion on the axle spline with a wire brush...?
Thanks for the reply. The O'Reilly part for my '07 was 513309, but the '06 part they had 513226 fit my car instead. The splines were slightly different, just enough to have me beating my head against the wall.
I'm guessing you have a convertible which shares the prior generation platform through to 2008 even though the redesigned hardtop came out in 2007. Save yourself headache next time and just tell them you have a 2006 MINI.
Unfortunately, the holes on this hub were too small for existing wheel bolts, so I had to buy smaller '06 wheel bolts to put everything back together. Not clear why O'Reillys '07 MasterPro and Precision hub splines don't match the '07 vehicle's spindle yet the '06 does.
O'reilly is confused. Some 2006 have the same 14mm wheel bolt size as 2007 and later MINIs, while earlier 2006 and pre-2006 have the 12mm wheel bolt size. Since most first gen MINI use the 12mm size, it's possible that that's all they stock - it would be easier for them to tell the handful of people with later 2006 and 2007-2008 convertibles to get 12mm bolts.
I have a 2% crankshaft pulley and a 17% reduction pulley all from Alta I'm using a 60535 belt and on my tensioner tab I'm showing one hole now is that a good size?
Now is the 2% crankshaft pulley like 2% bigger? Than the stock?
Do you replace the axel nut as well or take the old one if it´s ok? and do you use locktide for the 4 new bolts bearing hub to steering knuckle?
I typically reuse unless it's too mushed to be able to put a new dimple to prevent it from turning. Some locktite blue isn't a bad idea but even the OEM bolts don't come with any. Not a big risk of coming loose if you torque them properly.
I notices something my tires are the factory ones and it's a 2005 Cooper s and they rotted. My question is if my manual transmission it never gets driven but every two weeks for less then 100 miles. I smell a burning rubber like transmission, do you think I should flush the oil and put a better quality transmission oil?
If you park in the sun, the UV will destroy tires over time. 11 years is a long time for any tire but they would last longer if you parked indoors always and avoid dry environment. Burning smell could be clutch or maybe a failing/failed crankshaft pulley.
Have you done the shift linkage on an 03 r53? If so, is there any tricks or anything I need to look out for. My Bentley Manual makes it appear to be "easy"...
+Ben S I've done one time. I don't remember anything obviously difficult as long as you pay attention and use your head.
+Mod MINI thank you. still saving for the rmw bvh. i have the header.
Hi mod mini, in my mini cooper r50 steering wheel feels so loose at high speed what could be the cause of this problem thank you !
My hub has rusted it self to the carrier, what would you recommend? Just keep hammering? or is there anything else that you would give a shot.
Cheers
Make sure you've removed all the bolts and just keep hammering, it should fall off eventually. Spray some penetrating oil on there and let it sit for a few hours first maybe. I'd be more concerned about the axle spline rusting to the hub.
***** Many thanks for the reply, still having trouble removing the hub. doesn't seem to be budging. Would worst case scenario be replacing CV drive axle?
Bolt's on the back are rusted out and rounded, find room very tight to access the bolt's themselves. What's the best angle to get to them, should I have wheel on full lock or straight ahead? PS great videos 👍
Try various orientations and socket extensions for best access. If you still can't get it out, remove entire spindle/knuckle and work on it on the workbench
Hi Mod Mini I have a 2006 r53 jcw , I currently have a big vibration problem when driving on the freeway at about 70Mph and faster !, I have recently replaced my lower rear control arm bushes with powerflex polyurethane bushes & I replaced the balljoints , I have also replaced the tierod ends !, can you maybe tell me what you think it is - Regards :)
Bearings will make noise but shouldn't cause vibration. If your car is significantly lowered, vibration can come from axles. Also worn struts can cause vibration. In both cases more prominent when accelerating when going uphill
Thank you for your reply :), Oh okay , the thing is my struts are also still fine , I assume it might also be uneven spots on my front tyres maybe due to the lower control arm bushes that i had to replace !?, cause I am actually due for new tyres and it looks like there are uneven areas on them !?
regards.
Well yeah, if you can actually see uneven spots on your tires, you should suspect that first.
thanks just expected something worse as the vibration is quite bad :) regards
Is the process similar for a 2010 hardtop (Not S) rear bearing? I've been able to find some videos for pre-2010 front bearings but nothing specific for the rear. Are the torque values the same also?
Should be pretty much identical.
Alright mod mini I have a serious question. What is the story with the upper bumper fogs on R53s like in the movie the Italian job. Was it a special package? Just an option? And where can I get them lol I've never been able to find answers for them.
+Tyler Ostrum You mean driving lights? They were an option from either the manufacturer or dealer. Contact these people, looks like they can get you the parts you'd need? new.minimania.com/ss/EXTERIOR_PARTS,LIGHTING_NM
+Mod MINI YES, you're the man! Thank you!