When I started out 30 years ago as a window fitter I needed to kit myself out with the tools to do the job. But could not afford to buy them. A much older friend who was a mechanic, said he had the same problem when he started out. so he kitted himself out with a full set of DIY grade tools, everything he needed to go to work. He said he knew they would not last long but he could replace each one as and when they wore out or broke. So those tools not only allowed him to go to work to earn the money to buy their replacements but also to spread the cost. So that’s what I did, I bought all the power tools I required, DIY grade for the price I would have paid for one or two professional powertools. And Infact I burnt out the cheap masonry drill the very first week. But I had earned more than enough to replace it at the end of that week.
Now imagine if construction was like the bizarro world that auto mechanics live in: some predatory tool truck is there to sell you an overpriced “top of the line” version of everything you ever need on credit. It’s run by a franchisee who makes a living talking naive newbies into paying $10 a week for the rest of their career on some damn tool they need to do their job, brainwashing people into thinking “if you want to be taken seriously like a professional, you’ve gotta use what professionals use. Invest in yourself!” And everyone acts like it’s normal 🙃
I think you are spot on with those tool purchase mistakes LOL. The chisels are a great example of buying the right tool for the job. The hardware store chisels are fine for your every day carpentry rough work, but when you are trying to do some detailed fine woodworking task those same chisels are terrible.
My way of thinking it through when I started out and was not exactly sure whether I'd be using a tool a lot or not because I was a clueless beginner was this: start by buying the cheap version (not temu cheap but big box store cheap). Then if it dies on me, it means I am using it enough that it deserves an upgrade. Therefore, the second time around, I am going for the mid-level consumer model. And if *that* one dies on me, then I buy the pro version. In the end, if I still have the cheap version, it may be because the cheap version is plenty good enough and/or I am hardly ever using it: - sawzall - belt sander - jigsaw - electric planer - vibrating sander - solder iron The ones that got upgraded once: - hammer drill - compressor - nail gun - router - chainsaw Those that were upgraded twice: - track saw - angle grinder - drill driver That's only my experience, with my type of projects (home renovation, leaning towards woodworking)
This is excelent advice. My opinion on chisels. I bought a set of Harbor Freight chisels. The wood handled ones. The theory was to learn how to sharpen and correctly use them. The repetition helped me to get them sharper without destroying a great set. I still have them and I do not need a great set as I don't use then enough.
Regarding chisels: I would have to disagree with you. I bought a bargain set of chisels to start with so I could learn how to use them and how to sharpen them without destroying a quality set. Once I got used to using and sharpening them I went to a quality set. I still use the cheap ones for a quick touch up.
Sharpening is a whole rabbit hole. Freehand isn't bad, but it is a skill curve. Recommend Paul sellers, James Wright, and Rex Kruger as 3 guys to check in on freehand and hybrid sharpening.
Good Tips ! I’m a retired Professional Woodworker with over 35 years of Proffessional Woodworking and more than 40 years as my Passion/Hobby , Overall Love to do ! FYYI on the DA Sanders you can purchase a kit inexpensively to convert most brands and sizes into a Hook and Loop Sand Paper unit the Sandpaper available is generally more expensive to purchase that way and most Fabrication shops do use Sticky or Self Gluing Paper to save money in the Woodworking World Professionally Sand paper is viewed as just another Cost of being in The Business ! And iftheCraftsman need it to get perfect results you absorb those costs
Been woodworking since 1970. I work alot with old barnwood. I use a 3 1/2 inch electric planer or hand planer prior to sending boards thru big planer. I also use a 31/2 inch beltsander with a 40 or 50 grid as well. Worked for me all this time.
21:04 my dad taught me that if you're buying tools when you start, buy the cheap one and when it breaks replace it with a good one. If it breaks, you're obviously using it enough to justify the expense.
My Dad taught me the opposite, but I tend to use your strategy a lot more often. Pops has all the very best stuff (which is tempting!). But I’m in the camp of “try before you buy, THEN buy once-cry once”
I use my sawzall all the time. It's good for breaking down pallets, quickly dismantling ild furniture where you are saving good pieces. Also great for pruning, cutting roots below the ground, small trees, and well, we've done some remodeling.
Everything you say is absolutely true! Learning by experience when buying cheap tools can end up being very expensive... Here in Germany we say: "Buy cheap - buy twice!".
My wife encourages me to buy tools as well. I have a Porter Cable portable belt sander. I love it. For my luthier work it is essential. Redressing a bass finger board would take forever by hand. There is a learning curve.
Wise advice! I've bought my share of tools that I've never used because of slick demos on RUclips. Now I'm trying to thin the herd. When you're a beginner and even in the intermediate stage, it's sometimes hard to know what you really need and even harder to know which tools to buy.
Oh my, you have explained something that has baffled me. I bought a battery brad nailer and it leaves a staple shaped gouge when using brad nails and it infurates me. And ive seen others leave literally the size of the nail hole nothing more. I've just refrained from using it due to the work, but you explaining about the combo nailer has made me realise mine is also a combo nailer - Brand Ferrex from the UK, thank you for that!
This was very well stated. Boy do I agree with you on the portable power planer. I thought it would be the best most awesome thing and I hate it. It either takes off too much or not at all. I prefer drills with a bubble level on them. Helps when out of the shop and need to make a level or straight hole.
Appreciate your thoughts! Yeah, the portable power planer can be tricky to get just right. And those bubble levels on drills-super handy for straight drilling. 💯
dont use it for flattening, its good for taking off rough wood from old planks for reuse etc, its also decent for jointing if tou don't have a jointer - clamp 2 boards you want to glue up and plane both faces at the same time, works pretty good
Sir, respect. You are knowledgeable, frugal, and direct. Spend more money on what you use and need the most. Buy the cheap crap for the one-off time you need it. Love your style. Keep making content, please.
Excellent video! My only difference would be with the cost of tools… I know this is the 20 year mechanic in me talking. But I don’t really care if you’re going to use it once or every day for the rest of your life. You’ll never regret buying quality tools. Yes, buying higher end tools can be painful… But if you buy cheap crap. You have basically thrown your money away. You’ll never be able to sell it after you’re done with it. If it even lasts through your project… A high end tools will not only typically guarantee that you’ll get through your project. Should you happen to be the type of person that believes in selling tools… You can sell it when you’re done with it and get most of your money back.
All great tips! However; you mentioned a key point on the journey. 1) Affordability. Andbill add, someone with experience to buddy up with, and hindsight
Great video. If you ever want to get a quality measuring tool that isn't going to set you back a mortgage payment, go with the Igaging brand. Yeah they are manufactured in China, but done so to strict tolerances. Their small set of squares are really useful and cost less than half of the red brand. Highly recommended.
Great video with great advice. What you are saying is spot on. Most of my power tools are the Bosch Professional 18v. With the exception of my worksite table saw (DeWalt) and my bandsaw (Metabo) Yes, they are more expensive. But the quality and accuracy are great and I will not need to rebuy them next year.
I bought a good Milwaukee sawzall for $65 at a pawn shop. I use it to quickly cut small tree branches. I recently bought bi-metal blades to take apart some pallets.
I don't know, I use my handheld power planer to straigthen my boards before using my thickness planer, it can be pretty useful for woodworking, but get the cordless ones and only remove little at a time like 1/64th at most. For sanding, a belt sander is useful if you're sanding with 120 or below sand paper,which a beginner might need to fix some mistake. I can't agree more with you with paying more for a good jig!
Sir, I do enjoy your videos. I am a casual user and it’s just for fun really. I was fortunate that I wasn’t massively hemmed in by cost so was able to set up with some good tools and nothing cheap! This video took a long time to say cheap is bad, avoid cheap! That was the takeaway from each section, now I feel you can do better? Sometimes an expensive tool can be out performed by a less expensive option. That would be good to know, also corded or battery, if one is in the shed all the time why are we sacrificing power for mobility? Kindest Bob England
I’ll agree with you on all of them except the handheld belt sander, I use it to flatten table tops and slabs, as I don’t have a flattening jig yet nor the space.
Regarding drill and other handheld power tools ... pick a brand and try to stick to it, because of the batteries. Then you can have quality tools that you need often with as much batteries as you require and you can buy tools that you don't need often as OEM as possible (no case, no battery, no charger) which is usually a lot cheaper.
I do agree with your video. One tool I would add to the list of what to avoid is a Rotozip type tool. For my purposes it has been collecting dust for years.
thanks for that. agree completely with all you conclusions. hadn't thought much about the cast sharpening guide but you are dead right on that one. cheers s
Great video; enjoyed watching it. Glad you gave us some of the alternatives and a little discussion so we understood why you advised against them. I too have that staple/nailer combo, and you're exactly right about the size of hole. It's kinda funny how much a minor difference in speaking tone/attitude makes -- I just commented recently on one of your older "don't buy these" videos where, while this video feels like you're explaining/chatting, that one felt like you were preaching/lecturing. Same place, same camera angles and so on, but much better effect on this one, I think. You're fun to watch.
I have 3 belt sanders, D1273 bosch. A warrior variable speed. And another bosch I can't recall the model. All three together only cost me $40. I keep a different grit on each. I mainly make shelves, I'll start with belt and finish with random orbital and hand sanding. Like using sponge sanders for softening up edges and curves.
I have never had a power tool that has broken down. Even the cheapest ones. One can argue that I just haven’t used them enough. But even my first drill driver which cost €30, that I used for 15 years didn’t die on me. Most power tools have very simple electronics. I have always upgraded due to ergonomics, accessories, accuracy. Never because my old one wore out.
Hehehe very brave including honing guides. And you really didn't need to highlite you were a power tool woodworker :) Truth is, the actual bevel angle doesn't matter, and nor does absolute square. Close is good enough... and the more you do it, the more consistent (and so more efficient) will be your result. To learn to freehand, make a project with handtools only: throw away your protractor and touch up often: you'll have acceptably and repeatably "working sharp" by day two, and then it just gets better and easier over time. Unless you use the same care with a guide that you would when freehanding, you'll never get beyond "just acceptable" sharp... and if you are using the same level of care, you don't need the training wheels. Taking the same arguments, you'll see the "cheap" guide's only real fault was that (like all of us when we start) you were relying on the guide instead of your head... take one stroke - not square enough? adjust your weighting to the other side, and since it had a narrow wheel (better) this is easy - it ain't rocket science Nice video, thank you
Th cheap chisels thing really hits home. I stopped buying the cheap version of pretty much anything because every time it's just not nice to use. And higher quality often means that despite me using it more, it will last longer.
I would get a good dewalt or Milwaukee level recip saw. I use them for a lot of things. Pruning, demolition, cutting all sorts of things. Primarily for cutting limbs that don't need a chainsaw.
I bought a Bosch cordless sander (vibrating) because I had the batteries for some of my Bosch tools - the vibration makes my hand go numb for some reason?? I have to put it in a vice upside down, to prevent me having to hold it. I had a belt sander up until recently, it ate the belt- while it was consuming the belt, the sand on the paper was practically melting away the plastic that surrounds the sander!!! I only used that sander a half dozen times!!!
Nothing wrong with the HF drill press, as is with a lot of their tools anymore....they've really stepped up their quality since the Chicago Electric stuff...Bauer, Hercules lines are pretty dang good...the Warrior stuff basically is the new Chicago Electric LOL. I've had several HF tools over the years and very few issues with any of them...belt sander died on the first use....started smoking after a few minutes of use, and a drill bit sharpener that suffered the same failure LOL....
I agree, there is also a wen bandsaw. People dont realize how cheap and not very well made these are until they use something of good quality. For someone thats a doctor, engineer and with 50 years of woodworking behind him i would think he would have better quality tools. To each their own.
Power plane is def a carpenter tool. When i need to make a door 1/8th shorter at the top to fit a frame, or stupid stuff like that where you can't really table saw it, and you dont have the track saw and track.
That mystery gadget is a knock off of a bridge city kerf maker/measurement that will give you the basic idea of what to do. They just knock off great designs and ship out out for penny's on the dollar.
@@TheRealMagisD I always wondered why anyone would spend good money on one of those kerf makers when you can make one with some scrap wood and a small screw. Tons of tutorials on RUclips. My favorite is the design with a small piece of T track.
I'm a beginner. I bought a 12v brushless planer. I'm making a stool, and I glued three boards together to make the seat. I thought it would be a good time to test the planer. Yeah, that didn't go well, and I was reaching for my no.4 smoothing plane immediately 😂
I was following the Rex Kruger video instructions to make a stool, the brushless planer is a Parkside, the no.4 plane is a Irwin Record and this is my first proper project if that helps you picture my predicament 😅
I find picking the right grade of power tools not that easy. There are several points to consider. Just for example if I buy into a better powerdrill and are in that battery eco system, do I really buy a cheaper tool and again have another battery system or even have to buy an extra battery/charger for it? Or do I buy a battery adapter, which also increases the tool costs? Furthermore, I also "fear" of getting something of bad quality and not knowing about it. What I mean: I barely use the tool, never tried another brand and don't even know how much better/easier my work could have been (maybe comparing it to your chisels dilemma). In addition maybe an experienced person could compensate some of the tool downsides, but maybe I am not capable to do so, because I am no carpenter. Sure, a lot of "maybe", but I prefer to spend a little more and hopefully do not have to bother with problems I could have avoided. Basically I am the best customer for the power tool companies ;)
Nice videos as always. Can you explain why the measurement tool has two set screws? The square sits tight and like a combination square the set axes tightens and locks. This tool I'm referring to is similar without the 90-45. Yet it has 2 set screws. I'm wondering how it is to be used the most efficiently
Hi, are you referring to the T-Square I showed in the video? I can only guess that the manufacturer couldn’t get it to hold an angle with only one set screw.
I both agree and disagree with you, largely because of the distinction you make between woodworking and carpentry. My grandfather was a joiner in many of the robber baron mansions built in the New York area before the great depression. He always referred to himself as a carpenter, even though the quality of his workmanship with only hand tools would put many "woodworkers" of today to shame. While I do not do carpentry/woodworking for a living, I have frame-up restored an 1860's row house, and two 1920's Craftsman stye bungalows, and such work required both heavy demolition but also hand-built kitchen and bathroom cabinets, etc. I do understand your point, for example, regarding using high quality chisels for furniture-making, but there are plenty of times that I would grab for the Stanley chisel to split a 2x4 that had to be removed. Same with the hand-held belt sander, the Sawzall, and the planer, all of which are indispensable when you are doing demo or rough framing . Now at the age of 70 I'm in Central America, living off grid and teaching our 13-year-old how to use the right tool for the right job. My philosophy is that if you need a tool, buy the best quality one you can afford. I'm happy that I bought bull-floats, trowels, rolling tool cabinets, compressors, and god knows how many other "unnecessary" tools over the years, because I have them when I need them, and my son will have them when I'm gone. I do agree with you, though, about orbital sanders, cheap sharpening guides, and gimmicky tools. Good video!
Woodworking is kind of a general term. I was a rough and finish carpenter. I also was a cabinet maker. I mill logs and cut boards. I refer to myself as a woodworker.
You didn't get to batteries. I have found Dewalt has done a good job of battery continuity between modernization efforts. And there are not bad aftermarket batteries, And the 60V system works on 20V. And they have a huge selection of shop and garden tools. And having only one set of battles is a godsend. So despite them being just consumer grade I have embraced dewalt 20 and 60V tools. I have a big fleet of batteries so I never am wanting for power. In addition the market place recognizes dewalts position and are making dewalt cheap tools for those not so seldom used purposes. I now have cheap aftermarket flashlights all over. No more disposable battery purchases. There are adaptors for travel charging all your electronics, Its never ending. I'm a few years into it and so far even with heavy use the brushless tools keep going and are remarkably impact resistant. I am doing more welding and metal along with my woodworking, and the selection of tools is great. I realize now the quality of them and am slowly giving away my corded shop which is very extensive.
I'm still using the junction boxes, extension cords and good brand electric tools that I bought 25 and more years ago, and some battery powered things.
As much as I hate to say it, sometimes purchasing isn’t the best idea. You have a one or two time use for a reciprocating saw? Go rent it. Rent a professional quality piece of kit that will help you do that renovation and then take it back when you’re finished with it. Use the money you saved to buy something that you actually need.😊
@@pamelah6431 Also kinda silly to use a tool that's already probably kinda worn out with a shakey blade, then there's "ah shoot- I didn't quite get finished- gotta keep it for a second day."
I like your videos. Great information. However, Are you REALLY in a workshop or on a "green screen"? I notice that every video the background is exactly the same. The band saw has no blade like it never gets used. Somehow the background looks "flat". The "look" of the background is just a tiny bit "off" from you and the bench in front of you. I never seem to see you away from the bench working with other tools.
I've been making them since the 70's. Soft wood is better on cutting utensils. The mark up but can be re-planed. My wife has been using a white pine/walnut board since 1976. Agree on the hard boards. Oak is beautiful but can crack over the years. Maple is a good option. Cherry and walnut are costly unless you get them for free.
Possibly to avoid a jump cut if there was a break in the take. Camera angle changes and B roll can be useful for this purpose, to give the impression of one long continuous take. Saying that, it may just have been a stylistic choice
That's the case with a lot of stuff really. I have some cheaper end tools because I don't use them very often, but the stuff I use frequently is higher end for sure. I don't see the point in paying 4x the price for a tool that I use once a year for example...but a tool I use daily, and sometimes multiple times a day, for sure I'd spend more money on it, and it most likely will last a long time. If you buy the cheap tool 3x, well you probably spent as much if not more than it would have cost if you bought the more expensive tool to begin with LOL. Although sometimes buying a more expensive tool doesn't necessarily mean its better...sometimes its added features and gadgets on the tool that make it more expensive and some of the gadgets and features you may not need for example so buy the next model lower in price to avoid the unnecessary add-on stuff.
🪚 Get 10 FREE woodworking plans here: www.sawinery.net/pages/free-plans
How is it that you have _no idea_ how to use the tool you bought based on a video of _how to use the tool?_ 🤔
That genuinely confused me lmao
When I started out 30 years ago as a window fitter I needed to kit myself out with the tools to do the job. But could not afford to buy them.
A much older friend who was a mechanic, said he had the same problem when he started out. so he kitted himself out with a full set of DIY grade tools, everything he needed to go to work.
He said he knew they would not last long but he could replace each one as and when they wore out or broke. So those tools not only allowed him to go to work to earn the money to buy their replacements but also to spread the cost.
So that’s what I did, I bought all the power tools I required, DIY grade for the price I would have paid for one or two professional powertools. And Infact I burnt out the cheap masonry drill the very first week. But I had earned more than enough to replace it at the end of that week.
Now imagine if construction was like the bizarro world that auto mechanics live in: some predatory tool truck is there to sell you an overpriced “top of the line” version of everything you ever need on credit. It’s run by a franchisee who makes a living talking naive newbies into paying $10 a week for the rest of their career on some damn tool they need to do their job, brainwashing people into thinking “if you want to be taken seriously like a professional, you’ve gotta use what professionals use. Invest in yourself!” And everyone acts like it’s normal 🙃
I think you are spot on with those tool purchase mistakes LOL. The chisels are a great example of buying the right tool for the job. The hardware store chisels are fine for your every day carpentry rough work, but when you are trying to do some detailed fine woodworking task those same chisels are terrible.
I’m glad that resonated with you! It's funny how you don’t realize how much difference the right tool makes until you hit that detailed work.
My way of thinking it through when I started out and was not exactly sure whether I'd be using a tool a lot or not because I was a clueless beginner was this: start by buying the cheap version (not temu cheap but big box store cheap). Then if it dies on me, it means I am using it enough that it deserves an upgrade. Therefore, the second time around, I am going for the mid-level consumer model. And if *that* one dies on me, then I buy the pro version.
In the end, if I still have the cheap version, it may be because the cheap version is plenty good enough and/or I am hardly ever using it:
- sawzall
- belt sander
- jigsaw
- electric planer
- vibrating sander
- solder iron
The ones that got upgraded once:
- hammer drill
- compressor
- nail gun
- router
- chainsaw
Those that were upgraded twice:
- track saw
- angle grinder
- drill driver
That's only my experience, with my type of projects (home renovation, leaning towards woodworking)
This is excelent advice.
My opinion on chisels. I bought a set of Harbor Freight chisels. The wood handled ones. The theory was to learn how to sharpen and correctly use them. The repetition helped me to get them sharper without destroying a great set. I still have them and I do not need a great set as I don't use then enough.
A belt sander is a great tool for some circumstances, but I use mine primarily upside down in the vise as a stationary tool
Regarding chisels: I would have to disagree with you. I bought a bargain set of chisels to start with so I could learn how to use them and how to sharpen them without destroying a quality set. Once I got used to using and sharpening them I went to a quality set. I still use the cheap ones for a quick touch up.
Good move.
Sharpening is a whole rabbit hole. Freehand isn't bad, but it is a skill curve. Recommend Paul sellers, James Wright, and Rex Kruger as 3 guys to check in on freehand and hybrid sharpening.
I agree with these recommendations!
Outdoor55 is a fantastic resource for sharpening
Rob Cosman
Don't forget Rob Cosman! Seriously
@@arkansasboy45you beat me to it, lol
Good Tips ! I’m a retired Professional Woodworker with over 35 years of Proffessional Woodworking and more than 40 years as my Passion/Hobby , Overall Love to do ! FYYI on the DA Sanders you can purchase a kit inexpensively to convert most brands and sizes into a Hook and Loop Sand Paper unit the Sandpaper available is generally more expensive to purchase that way and most Fabrication shops do use Sticky or Self Gluing Paper to save money in the Woodworking World Professionally Sand paper is viewed as just another Cost of being in The Business ! And iftheCraftsman need it to get perfect results you absorb those costs
I love my belt sander for sanding panels
Me too.
Been woodworking since 1970. I work alot with old barnwood. I use a 3 1/2 inch electric planer or hand planer prior to sending boards thru big planer. I also use a 31/2 inch beltsander with a 40 or 50 grid as well. Worked for me all this time.
21:04 my dad taught me that if you're buying tools when you start, buy the cheap one and when it breaks replace it with a good one. If it breaks, you're obviously using it enough to justify the expense.
My Dad taught me the opposite, but I tend to use your strategy a lot more often. Pops has all the very best stuff (which is tempting!). But I’m in the camp of “try before you buy, THEN buy once-cry once”
I use my sawzall all the time. It's good for breaking down pallets, quickly dismantling ild furniture where you are saving good pieces. Also great for pruning, cutting roots below the ground, small trees, and well, we've done some remodeling.
Everything you say is absolutely true! Learning by experience when buying cheap tools can end up being very expensive... Here in Germany we say: "Buy cheap - buy twice!".
My wife encourages me to buy tools as well. I have a Porter Cable portable belt sander. I love it. For my luthier work it is essential. Redressing a bass finger board would take forever by hand. There is a learning curve.
Wise advice! I've bought my share of tools that I've never used because of slick demos on RUclips. Now I'm trying to thin the herd. When you're a beginner and even in the intermediate stage, it's sometimes hard to know what you really need and even harder to know which tools to buy.
Oh my, you have explained something that has baffled me. I bought a battery brad nailer and it leaves a staple shaped gouge when using brad nails and it infurates me. And ive seen others leave literally the size of the nail hole nothing more. I've just refrained from using it due to the work, but you explaining about the combo nailer has made me realise mine is also a combo nailer - Brand Ferrex from the UK, thank you for that!
This was very well stated.
Boy do I agree with you on the portable power planer. I thought it would be the best most awesome thing and I hate it. It either takes off too much or not at all.
I prefer drills with a bubble level on them. Helps when out of the shop and need to make a level or straight hole.
Appreciate your thoughts! Yeah, the portable power planer can be tricky to get just right. And those bubble levels on drills-super handy for straight drilling. 💯
dont use it for flattening, its good for taking off rough wood from old planks for reuse etc, its also decent for jointing if tou don't have a jointer - clamp 2 boards you want to glue up and plane both faces at the same time, works pretty good
Sir, respect. You are knowledgeable, frugal, and direct. Spend more money on what you use and need the most. Buy the cheap crap for the one-off time you need it. Love your style. Keep making content, please.
Makes sense, if you have no money buy cheap but if you have money or can save money, buy quality.
Excellent video! My only difference would be with the cost of tools… I know this is the 20 year mechanic in me talking. But I don’t really care if you’re going to use it once or every day for the rest of your life. You’ll never regret buying quality tools. Yes, buying higher end tools can be painful… But if you buy cheap crap. You have basically thrown your money away. You’ll never be able to sell it after you’re done with it. If it even lasts through your project… A high end tools will not only typically guarantee that you’ll get through your project. Should you happen to be the type of person that believes in selling tools… You can sell it when you’re done with it and get most of your money back.
All great tips! However; you mentioned a key point on the journey. 1) Affordability. Andbill add, someone with experience to buddy up with, and hindsight
Great video. If you ever want to get a quality measuring tool that isn't going to set you back a mortgage payment, go with the Igaging brand. Yeah they are manufactured in China, but done so to strict tolerances. Their small set of squares are really useful and cost less than half of the red brand. Highly recommended.
Appreciate the tip! Affordable and precise tools are always a great find.
Great video with great advice. What you are saying is spot on. Most of my power tools are the Bosch Professional 18v. With the exception of my worksite table saw (DeWalt) and my bandsaw (Metabo) Yes, they are more expensive. But the quality and accuracy are great and I will not need to rebuy them next year.
I bought a good Milwaukee sawzall for $65 at a pawn shop. I use it to quickly cut small tree branches. I recently bought bi-metal blades to take apart some pallets.
Nice tool. I have one.
Great overview, 100% agree with those statements, but not throw away your cheap chisels, you can use it on carpentry works!
I think sharpening is the most important skill. It is the foundation for everything else.
Reasonable argumentation, but first 3 tools I use the most ! :) I'm creating and processing non linear and thinning to the edge wood surfaces.
I keep a harbor freight drill/driver warrior brand in the house. It's been 3 years, it might have wobble by now, but for home use it's been great.
I don't know, I use my handheld power planer to straigthen my boards before using my thickness planer, it can be pretty useful for woodworking, but get the cordless ones and only remove little at a time like 1/64th at most. For sanding, a belt sander is useful if you're sanding with 120 or below sand paper,which a beginner might need to fix some mistake. I can't agree more with you with paying more for a good jig!
Agree. I use it before sending the boards thru the big planer.
Sir, I do enjoy your videos. I am a casual user and it’s just for fun really. I was fortunate that I wasn’t massively hemmed in by cost so was able to set up with some good tools and nothing cheap!
This video took a long time to say cheap is bad, avoid cheap! That was the takeaway from each section, now I feel you can do better? Sometimes an expensive tool can be out performed by a less expensive option. That would be good to know, also corded or battery, if one is in the shed all the time why are we sacrificing power for mobility?
Kindest
Bob
England
I’ll agree with you on all of them except the handheld belt sander, I use it to flatten table tops and slabs, as I don’t have a flattening jig yet nor the space.
Regarding drill and other handheld power tools ... pick a brand and try to stick to it, because of the batteries. Then you can have quality tools that you need often with as much batteries as you require and you can buy tools that you don't need often as OEM as possible (no case, no battery, no charger) which is usually a lot cheaper.
I do agree with your video. One tool I would add to the list of what to avoid is a Rotozip type tool. For my purposes it has been collecting dust for years.
I use it for home repair and construction. I've never used it for woodworking.
thanks for that. agree completely with all you conclusions. hadn't thought much about the cast sharpening guide but you are dead right on that one. cheers s
Great video; enjoyed watching it. Glad you gave us some of the alternatives and a little discussion so we understood why you advised against them. I too have that staple/nailer combo, and you're exactly right about the size of hole. It's kinda funny how much a minor difference in speaking tone/attitude makes -- I just commented recently on one of your older "don't buy these" videos where, while this video feels like you're explaining/chatting, that one felt like you were preaching/lecturing. Same place, same camera angles and so on, but much better effect on this one, I think. You're fun to watch.
If you wait until you can afford "better than adequate" you will never do anything.
I have 3 belt sanders, D1273 bosch. A warrior variable speed. And another bosch I can't recall the model. All three together only cost me $40. I keep a different grit on each.
I mainly make shelves, I'll start with belt and finish with random orbital and hand sanding. Like using sponge sanders for softening up edges and curves.
Great information delivered in an entertaining way!
Thank you, I appreciate it! 😊
Good video, very helpful for a new woodworker like me. Thank you!
Awesome, I'm glad it's something that could help you as you get started in woodworking.😊
thanks for the valuable information and your wisdom. God bless you and your family
Yes, I agree 100%.
Nice video - certainly very sound advice there! Thanks!
I agree completely, I probably went through 10 cheap jigsaws until I bought a professional unit, never going back!
I still have my cheap black and decker from 1978. Still works good. But I use my bandsaw and scroll saw more often.
I like tools I can touch before I buy them.
I have never had a power tool that has broken down. Even the cheapest ones. One can argue that I just haven’t used them enough. But even my first drill driver which cost €30, that I used for 15 years didn’t die on me.
Most power tools have very simple electronics. I have always upgraded due to ergonomics, accessories, accuracy. Never because my old one wore out.
1/4 sheet sander can do a recessed inside corner, which is its one obvious advantage over an R/O
Yeah, but you can do that manually easily enough.
what is the brand of sharpening jig is the good one?
3 palm sanders is more cost-efficient than wasting sandpaper? Wow!
Hehehe very brave including honing guides. And you really didn't need to highlite you were a power tool woodworker :)
Truth is, the actual bevel angle doesn't matter, and nor does absolute square. Close is good enough... and the more you do it, the more consistent (and so more efficient) will be your result. To learn to freehand, make a project with handtools only: throw away your protractor and touch up often: you'll have acceptably and repeatably "working sharp" by day two, and then it just gets better and easier over time. Unless you use the same care with a guide that you would when freehanding, you'll never get beyond "just acceptable" sharp... and if you are using the same level of care, you don't need the training wheels.
Taking the same arguments, you'll see the "cheap" guide's only real fault was that (like all of us when we start) you were relying on the guide instead of your head... take one stroke - not square enough? adjust your weighting to the other side, and since it had a narrow wheel (better) this is easy - it ain't rocket science
Nice video, thank you
Th cheap chisels thing really hits home. I stopped buying the cheap version of pretty much anything because every time it's just not nice to use. And higher quality often means that despite me using it more, it will last longer.
Top quality chisels can be bought at flea markets and garage sales. CHEAPLY.
I would get a good dewalt or Milwaukee level recip saw. I use them for a lot of things. Pruning, demolition, cutting all sorts of things. Primarily for cutting limbs that don't need a chainsaw.
I’m glad I’m not only one who had trouble with power planer. Mine also just collects dust
Totally feel you on that one. It's just one of those tools that seemed like a good idea at the time but didn't quite work out.
Lots of wisdom there!
I bought a Bosch cordless sander (vibrating) because I had the batteries for some of my Bosch tools - the vibration makes my hand go numb for some reason?? I have to put it in a vice upside down, to prevent me having to hold it. I had a belt sander up until recently, it ate the belt- while it was consuming the belt, the sand on the paper was practically melting away the plastic that surrounds the sander!!! I only used that sander a half dozen times!!!
Talks about using professional grade drills while standing in front on harbor freight drill press
Nothing wrong with the HF drill press, as is with a lot of their tools anymore....they've really stepped up their quality since the Chicago Electric stuff...Bauer, Hercules lines are pretty dang good...the Warrior stuff basically is the new Chicago Electric LOL. I've had several HF tools over the years and very few issues with any of them...belt sander died on the first use....started smoking after a few minutes of use, and a drill bit sharpener that suffered the same failure LOL....
Have a Hercules 2.5hp router from HF. As good or better quality than my Dewalt& Bosch routers. At close to half the price...
@@robertmceuen3630 you are comparing your 2.5 HP router to 3.25HP routers, I would hope its cheaper
I agree, there is also a wen bandsaw. People dont realize how cheap and not very well made these are until they use something of good quality. For someone thats a doctor, engineer and with 50 years of woodworking behind him i would think he would have better quality tools. To each their own.
@@wildbill23c and you could take them back for a replacement.
I’ve made most of these mistakes. Buy your last tool first.
Power plane is def a carpenter tool. When i need to make a door 1/8th shorter at the top to fit a frame, or stupid stuff like that where you can't really table saw it, and you dont have the track saw and track.
That mystery gadget is a knock off of a bridge city kerf maker/measurement that will give you the basic idea of what to do. They just knock off great designs and ship out out for penny's on the dollar.
I think there is a YT video on how to use the kerf maker device. Very helpful.
@@TheRealMagisD I always wondered why anyone would spend good money on one of those kerf makers when you can make one with some scrap wood and a small screw. Tons of tutorials on RUclips. My favorite is the design with a small piece of T track.
I'm a beginner. I bought a 12v brushless planer.
I'm making a stool, and I glued three boards together to make the seat. I thought it would be a good time to test the planer. Yeah, that didn't go well, and I was reaching for my no.4 smoothing plane immediately 😂
I was following the Rex Kruger video instructions to make a stool, the brushless planer is a Parkside, the no.4 plane is a Irwin Record and this is my first proper project if that helps you picture my predicament 😅
I plane before gluing. I also use dowel rods on everything I glue. Never break on you. Check out powertec jigs.
The stapler I believe is for attaching upholstery.
I keep 320 on my finish sander, 120 stays on the corded ROS 220 on the 20v ROS
Thanks Rich
I find picking the right grade of power tools not that easy. There are several points to consider.
Just for example if I buy into a better powerdrill and are in that battery eco system, do I really buy a cheaper tool and again have another battery system or even have to buy an extra battery/charger for it? Or do I buy a battery adapter, which also increases the tool costs?
Furthermore, I also "fear" of getting something of bad quality and not knowing about it. What I mean: I barely use the tool, never tried another brand and don't even know how much better/easier my work could have been (maybe comparing it to your chisels dilemma). In addition maybe an experienced person could compensate some of the tool downsides, but maybe I am not capable to do so, because I am no carpenter. Sure, a lot of "maybe", but I prefer to spend a little more and hopefully do not have to bother with problems I could have avoided. Basically I am the best customer for the power tool companies ;)
Great video
I'd add cheap planes to the list, you might be able to spend 2 years fixing them to make them function, but it's just not worth in my opinion
I didn’t hear “I’ll leave a link in the description” one time 👍🏻❤
Nice videos as always. Can you explain why the measurement tool has two set screws? The square sits tight and like a combination square the set axes tightens and locks. This tool I'm referring to is similar without the 90-45. Yet it has 2 set screws. I'm wondering how it is to be used the most efficiently
Hi, are you referring to the T-Square I showed in the video? I can only guess that the manufacturer couldn’t get it to hold an angle with only one set screw.
How much was that chisel sharpener? I like using them, but sharpening them is daunting
Were did you purchase your blade sharping tool ? The bench top stone ? TY
It should be available soon on the Sawinery website. :)
good Video... teaching concepts not specifics...
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. 😊
I both agree and disagree with you, largely because of the distinction you make between woodworking and carpentry. My grandfather was a joiner in many of the robber baron mansions built in the New York area before the great depression. He always referred to himself as a carpenter, even though the quality of his workmanship with only hand tools would put many "woodworkers" of today to shame. While I do not do carpentry/woodworking for a living, I have frame-up restored an 1860's row house, and two 1920's Craftsman stye bungalows, and such work required both heavy demolition but also hand-built kitchen and bathroom cabinets, etc. I do understand your point, for example, regarding using high quality chisels for furniture-making, but there are plenty of times that I would grab for the Stanley chisel to split a 2x4 that had to be removed. Same with the hand-held belt sander, the Sawzall, and the planer, all of which are indispensable when you are doing demo or rough framing . Now at the age of 70 I'm in Central America, living off grid and teaching our 13-year-old how to use the right tool for the right job. My philosophy is that if you need a tool, buy the best quality one you can afford. I'm happy that I bought bull-floats, trowels, rolling tool cabinets, compressors, and god knows how many other "unnecessary" tools over the years, because I have them when I need them, and my son will have them when I'm gone. I do agree with you, though, about orbital sanders, cheap sharpening guides, and gimmicky tools. Good video!
Woodworking is kind of a general term. I was a rough and finish carpenter. I also was a cabinet maker. I mill logs and cut boards. I refer to myself as a woodworker.
You didn't get to batteries. I have found Dewalt has done a good job of battery continuity between modernization efforts. And there are not bad aftermarket batteries, And the 60V system works on 20V. And they have a huge selection of shop and garden tools. And having only one set of battles is a godsend. So despite them being just consumer grade I have embraced dewalt 20 and 60V tools. I have a big fleet of batteries so I never am wanting for power. In addition the market place recognizes dewalts position and are making dewalt cheap tools for those not so seldom used purposes. I now have cheap aftermarket flashlights all over. No more disposable battery purchases. There are adaptors for travel charging all your electronics, Its never ending. I'm a few years into it and so far even with heavy use the brushless tools keep going and are remarkably impact resistant. I am doing more welding and metal along with my woodworking, and the selection of tools is great. I realize now the quality of them and am slowly giving away my corded shop which is very extensive.
I'm still using the junction boxes, extension cords and good brand electric tools that I bought 25 and more years ago, and some battery powered things.
As much as I hate to say it, sometimes purchasing isn’t the best idea. You have a one or two time use for a reciprocating saw? Go rent it. Rent a professional quality piece of kit that will help you do that renovation and then take it back when you’re finished with it. Use the money you saved to buy something that you actually need.😊
The cost of renting a sawzall and having to make a trip to get it and a trip to return it seems pretty silly to me if you value your time and gas...
@@pamelah6431 Also kinda silly to use a tool that's already probably kinda worn out with a shakey blade, then there's "ah shoot- I didn't quite get finished- gotta keep it for a second day."
What is that sharpening jig your using
It's our brand: Sawinery. We should have it available on the website soon. :)
I like your videos. Great information.
However, Are you REALLY in a workshop or on a "green screen"? I notice that every video the background is exactly the same. The band saw has no blade like it never gets used. Somehow the background looks "flat". The "look" of the background is just a tiny bit "off" from you and the bench in front of you. I never seem to see you away from the bench working with other tools.
At this point random orbital sanders are so cheap already. Those vibratory sanders are useless if you have a detail one and a da sander.
Oak is an open grain wood. Not a great choice for a cutting board
I've been making them since the 70's. Soft wood is better on cutting utensils. The mark up but can be re-planed. My wife has been using a white pine/walnut board since 1976. Agree on the hard boards. Oak is beautiful but can crack over the years. Maple is a good option. Cherry and walnut are costly unless you get them for free.
@@gidave I agree, walnut and cherry are a lot cheaper when they're free!😉
This is all kinda silly & one of the three "self-adhesive" palm sanders at 4:20 has spring clips to hold the paper.
Alright, you convinced me. Im changing all my power tools to festool.
With all due respect, the first 3 items aren't woodworking tools, they're construction tools. Apples and Oldsmobiles.
I hate my palm sander. I am about to upgrade to random orbital.
Never use them. I have a porta cable disk and belt sander along with a belt sander.
Why is there a second view of this guy where he's not looking into the camera?
Possibly to avoid a jump cut if there was a break in the take. Camera angle changes and B roll can be useful for this purpose, to give the impression of one long continuous take. Saying that, it may just have been a stylistic choice
@@JamesLMason It's a stupid fad.
I think I first noticed it in cooking shows. Usually through a bunch of parsley.
@@JamesLMason Fascinating.
👍
Buy once...Cry once.
That's the case with a lot of stuff really. I have some cheaper end tools because I don't use them very often, but the stuff I use frequently is higher end for sure.
I don't see the point in paying 4x the price for a tool that I use once a year for example...but a tool I use daily, and sometimes multiple times a day, for sure I'd spend more money on it, and it most likely will last a long time. If you buy the cheap tool 3x, well you probably spent as much if not more than it would have cost if you bought the more expensive tool to begin with LOL. Although sometimes buying a more expensive tool doesn't necessarily mean its better...sometimes its added features and gadgets on the tool that make it more expensive and some of the gadgets and features you may not need for example so buy the next model lower in price to avoid the unnecessary add-on stuff.