My home wall has been my main tool for training for the past two years. And I agree with a lot of what you say here. Balance is everything, and so happy somebody on RUclips is finally talking about this. Home walls are unbelievable tools for strength and technique, but are definitely specialized. The one thing I would disagree with, I think having the home wall consistency, and training has a super high rate of return. You just have to be intentional with the types of holds you buy/climbs you set/and density of holds. I think the biggest switch in terms of return on my work came when I learned how to manage my mental health in solo sessions. And realizing solo sessions are the most important in terms of mentality And growth. When you have to sit with your own failures, and motivate yourself, and work through hard moves with yourself, like you mentioned, it can be super challenging for your mental health. But that challenge forces growth, as you have to become more analytical, and less attached to each attempt. You have to actually learn how to climb, and figure out the moves without somebody else cheering you on. And in that you also get to learn what you need as a person and as a climber for success, and then emulating that in rock becomes easier. I'm not sure how hard you are on yourself during a session, but sometimes I find just having a movement session on the wall instead of trying hard, or trying to set the craziest easy move ever, and force the creativity of movement and bring back the enjoyment of climbing really helps my mentality if I am too harsh towards myself during a session. That way I still climb, and move, but I'm not pushing grades. And honestly learning how to enjoy the movement has helped me a ton out on rock, especially when I'm trying something limit. Anyways love this kind of video! Thank you!
This might be the best comment I've ever gotten, thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and for the kind words! I completely agree with your point on the rate of return on home wall climbing. I think it allows for people to really specialize in important areas and actually use their energy in the areas they want, but this also requires you to be much more intentional as the areas of focus will likely improve very well, but areas of neglect will arguably suffer much greater. I think I could have worded my thoughts a bit better on that end section. I also really appreciate your thoughts on the mental health side of climbing. I think it's something that rarely gets the attention it deserves. I think solo session mentally is something that I'm already very used to in regards to having to be your own support, motivation, and coach. As I would rarely be able to actually climb the same problems as others in the gym, but I think the social environment change is a huge change either way. Which is more of what I was trying to highlight, as I think most people (myself included) may not get the amount social interaction they need without the gym. Which is an important thing to be aware of when making such a lifestyle change. Overall it's something that is largely up to the individual and their goals and abilities, and hearing your perspective and your thoughts just gives me more insight and understanding! I appreciate the thoughtful comment a ton! Thank you!
The bad sessions point is so true. There are days that I literally can't get my ass off the crash pad on my 35° wall. But the closest proper climbing gym is almost 2 hours away from where I live, so home wall was the best way for me to climb often.
@@tommysegovia My fingers are relatively weak for a climber. I can't even 20 mm beastmaker edge hang anymore after ring finger pulley injury. So I had to up my footwork, deadpoint and body positioning game. So now I am able to stick so much closer to the wall than used to, which allows me to pull on the holds roughly parallel to the wall instead of straight down. I also learned how to put more load on my feet to offload fingers. BTW. I just saw your "Fixing the wall" video, and at the end you showed your broken wooden holds. I made around 25 holds myself (so happens, one of them yesterday) and I have some tips. Use hardwood, like oak or walnut, or layered cross-grain plywood. Hardwood might be expensive and hard to work on (duh...). I started with softwood (pine) and it needs at least two layers glued together using wood glue. Otherwise they will snap like the one in your video. Now I moved to roughly 3/4" birch plywood (18 mm) and I glue couple of layers together to get the desired thickness. Its the same stuff that moonboard wood holds are made of. Always drill the holes for screws. Self-drilling screw do exist, but most of the wood holds are too small to use them. Also use countersink drill bits, so screw head will spread the load evenly. Offset the drill holes relative to wood grain. Don't put 2 screws close together on the same "line". I you don't it's like driving a wedge through the wood. Or use cross-grain plywood, then it does not matter. If you intent to change hold placement once in a while use countersunk washers to protect the drilled holes. I hope this will help :)
Moving city right now and my previous gym had a really good community, in my new city all the gyms are sort of commercialized, people communicate well less, there is corporate music playing and I just feel uncomfortable so I´ll try set up a community project for a smaller set of dedicated climbers, see how it goes
@@herrar6595 that would be awesome! I think community is so important for climbing, and music too 😭 I feel that one a lot. I like to bring my own music when I’m climbing alone, but it can be a bit of a vibe killer listening to corporate music when your climbing with others lol Goodluck and let me know how it goes!
Hi man! I’m climbing around the same grades as you so it’s great to be able to follow along your progress as it help me stay motivated to train as well. One question though, what’s your weight and height, I’m trying to compare our lifts and benchmark exercises as well 😄 good luck with your training, and I will for sure continue to watch your progress.
Love the vids! Which cons do you think having an adjustable home wall would eliminate. Main thing I feel like if your worried about taxing your body you can just have a much chiller sesh on like 20°
I think it would definitely open up a ton of options and allow for those more chill sessions like you mention. I think more options would help a lot with still getting in sessions when the steep overhang is getting to be too much. Although I suppose that could also change the overall training focus a bit since you are putting energy into other types of climbing. So I suppose it would really depend on your own personal goals
Yeah I feel that, I’ve been trying to work on my setting since I feel like the board was initially super limited and was probably not the best training tool
I can't set to save my life, so my home wall looks like MB mini knockoff 😃I bought some cheap holds, but not all of them were correct shape, so I made the ones that I was missing myself using birch plywood.
Yeah I agree, I think using the gym for variety and technique is probably the best. And yeah I’ve actually been working on improving my skin a lot haha I think it’s a lot better now (rhino skin is awesome lol)
My home wall has been my main tool for training for the past two years. And I agree with a lot of what you say here. Balance is everything, and so happy somebody on RUclips is finally talking about this. Home walls are unbelievable tools for strength and technique, but are definitely specialized.
The one thing I would disagree with, I think having the home wall consistency, and training has a super high rate of return. You just have to be intentional with the types of holds you buy/climbs you set/and density of holds.
I think the biggest switch in terms of return on my work came when I learned how to manage my mental health in solo sessions. And realizing solo sessions are the most important in terms of mentality And growth. When you have to sit with your own failures, and motivate yourself, and work through hard moves with yourself, like you mentioned, it can be super challenging for your mental health. But that challenge forces growth, as you have to become more analytical, and less attached to each attempt. You have to actually learn how to climb, and figure out the moves without somebody else cheering you on. And in that you also get to learn what you need as a person and as a climber for success, and then emulating that in rock becomes easier. I'm not sure how hard you are on yourself during a session, but sometimes I find just having a movement session on the wall instead of trying hard, or trying to set the craziest easy move ever, and force the creativity of movement and bring back the enjoyment of climbing really helps my mentality if I am too harsh towards myself during a session. That way I still climb, and move, but I'm not pushing grades. And honestly learning how to enjoy the movement has helped me a ton out on rock, especially when I'm trying something limit.
Anyways love this kind of video! Thank you!
This might be the best comment I've ever gotten, thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and for the kind words! I completely agree with your point on the rate of return on home wall climbing. I think it allows for people to really specialize in important areas and actually use their energy in the areas they want, but this also requires you to be much more intentional as the areas of focus will likely improve very well, but areas of neglect will arguably suffer much greater. I think I could have worded my thoughts a bit better on that end section.
I also really appreciate your thoughts on the mental health side of climbing. I think it's something that rarely gets the attention it deserves. I think solo session mentally is something that I'm already very used to in regards to having to be your own support, motivation, and coach. As I would rarely be able to actually climb the same problems as others in the gym, but I think the social environment change is a huge change either way. Which is more of what I was trying to highlight, as I think most people (myself included) may not get the amount social interaction they need without the gym. Which is an important thing to be aware of when making such a lifestyle change.
Overall it's something that is largely up to the individual and their goals and abilities, and hearing your perspective and your thoughts just gives me more insight and understanding! I appreciate the thoughtful comment a ton! Thank you!
@@tommysegovia absolutely a pleasure to share! And stoked to hear some more of your thoughts in depth! You are an inspiration man, keep it up.
@@Trumkin thank you so much!
I see that you are also a tom o’halloran viewer
Yes I am haha his videos are good
The bad sessions point is so true. There are days that I literally can't get my ass off the crash pad on my 35° wall.
But the closest proper climbing gym is almost 2 hours away from where I live, so home wall was the best way for me to climb often.
I’m glad I’m not the only one 😭 some days are rough. Overall how would you say your progression has been on your home wall?
@@tommysegovia My fingers are relatively weak for a climber. I can't even 20 mm beastmaker edge hang anymore after ring finger pulley injury. So I had to up my footwork, deadpoint and body positioning game. So now I am able to stick so much closer to the wall than used to, which allows me to pull on the holds roughly parallel to the wall instead of straight down. I also learned how to put more load on my feet to offload fingers.
BTW. I just saw your "Fixing the wall" video, and at the end you showed your broken wooden holds. I made around 25 holds myself (so happens, one of them yesterday) and I have some tips.
Use hardwood, like oak or walnut, or layered cross-grain plywood. Hardwood might be expensive and hard to work on (duh...).
I started with softwood (pine) and it needs at least two layers glued together using wood glue. Otherwise they will snap like the one in your video. Now I moved to roughly 3/4" birch plywood (18 mm) and I glue couple of layers together to get the desired thickness. Its the same stuff that moonboard wood holds are made of.
Always drill the holes for screws. Self-drilling screw do exist, but most of the wood holds are too small to use them. Also use countersink drill bits, so screw head will spread the load evenly.
Offset the drill holes relative to wood grain. Don't put 2 screws close together on the same "line". I you don't it's like driving a wedge through the wood. Or use cross-grain plywood, then it does not matter.
If you intent to change hold placement once in a while use countersunk washers to protect the drilled holes.
I hope this will help :)
This was so interesting and informative. I learned a lot!
I’m glad! 😁
Moving city right now and my previous gym had a really good community, in my new city all the gyms are sort of commercialized, people communicate well less, there is corporate music playing and I just feel uncomfortable so I´ll try set up a community project for a smaller set of dedicated climbers, see how it goes
@@herrar6595 that would be awesome! I think community is so important for climbing, and music too 😭 I feel that one a lot. I like to bring my own music when I’m climbing alone, but it can be a bit of a vibe killer listening to corporate music when your climbing with others lol Goodluck and let me know how it goes!
I'm not subscribing because of the number of current subscribers. But I wanted to say I loved this breakdown!!
Haha fair enough. Thank you! Hopefully one day I’ll get your sub 😼
That's the dumbest thing ive ever heard
Wtf are you a sheep or something
@@tommysegovia oh for sure, as soon as that number ticks over 😂
@@mrgorillaflavour9041 thanks, I'm really glad to be so notable in your entire life 😌
Hi man! I’m climbing around the same grades as you so it’s great to be able to follow along your progress as it help me stay motivated to train as well. One question though, what’s your weight and height, I’m trying to compare our lifts and benchmark exercises as well 😄 good luck with your training, and I will for sure continue to watch your progress.
That’s awesome! I’m around 170-173lbs and 6 foot. Thank you so much!
Love the vids! Which cons do you think having an adjustable home wall would eliminate. Main thing I feel like if your worried about taxing your body you can just have a much chiller sesh on like 20°
I think it would definitely open up a ton of options and allow for those more chill sessions like you mention. I think more options would help a lot with still getting in sessions when the steep overhang is getting to be too much. Although I suppose that could also change the overall training focus a bit since you are putting energy into other types of climbing. So I suppose it would really depend on your own personal goals
Not enough spray wall content on RUclips so... niceee. Enjoyed but would rather watch the climbing footage itself than a whiteboard
Yeah I completely get that. I wish I recorded a bit more over the last month for this video 😭 thank you!
@@tommysegovia Looking forward to more content chief!
This is sick
Thank you!
I couldnt set worth shit on the spray wall and my climbing regressed. That’s why I got a 2016 mb.
Yeah I feel that, I’ve been trying to work on my setting since I feel like the board was initially super limited and was probably not the best training tool
@@tommysegoviait’s probably good for you in the long run.
I can't set to save my life, so my home wall looks like MB mini knockoff 😃I bought some cheap holds, but not all of them were correct shape, so I made the ones that I was missing myself using birch plywood.
I've been doing this challenge for the past year and a half (board). its fun to make it up as I go
How has it been for you?
@@tommysegovia I'm super strong and uncoordinated lol
@@theemptyset715 haha sounds about right 😭😂
really good video but i want a bit more see u climb on the wall
Definitely! The next few videos I want to have more actual climbing in them haha experimenting with slightly longer videos right now
Nice video, I think generally you should still go to the gym once a week for practicing only technique.
Also you should try to get your skin ready for outdoor bouldering.
Yeah I agree, I think using the gym for variety and technique is probably the best. And yeah I’ve actually been working on improving my skin a lot haha I think it’s a lot better now (rhino skin is awesome lol)
i didn't know sam sulek climbed
Haha same build too right? 💪😼
@@tommysegovia lol surprised I can see the spray wall past the wings
You lowkey looked like Michael Jackson after he turned white
It is what it is ykwim