I’ve used a Fallkniven S1 for the last twelve years or so in Northern Scandinavia on backpacking, canoe and kayak trips… never used anything other than a ferro rod on the spline to start a fire… from about September to April I carry a couple of “makeup remover” type Cotten pads with a small amount of Vaseline on to use if conditions are really damp to be 100% certain of being able to get a fire going… The geometry of the fire makes a huge difference to how effective the whole process is.
When I was a kid we used to light fires with a rolled up sheet of newspaper tied into a knot, very light and easy to carry in your haversack together with a small box of matches. Life seemed much simpler then!
Hi Rob! Just wanted to say I appreciate your work sir. I usually do a cross hatch pattern to start my fires. After watching your vid and watching how you stack the splits etc. I decided to try your way. Bravo sir you taught this old dog a new trick. Just wanted to let you know someone is employing your techniques! Keep the great vids rolling. Thanks again sir.
Yes Rob you star.... Another tidy blade another tidy vid.... Oh and cheers my silky gomboy with the straight blade has been delivered, I have had a play but this Saturday will be its time to shine. Overnighter so 3o'clock coffee and munch to be ready for an early morning rabbit cull
The satin ones don't come with a sharp spine either, I was told that Peter the owner of Fallkniven really doesn't like ferrorods and therefore he thinks a sharp spine is pointless!
Thankyou Rob as always, funny thing about my knives is this, the cheap mora stainless I use all the time performs better than some of my more expensive ones, I guess this is all about practice and habit, I still aint brought a knife that I didnt feel the need to grind the spine a bit for ferro sparking, I recently made some half decent feather sticks with a stanley knife, yeah I know no good for batoning or much else in bushcraft, anyway I see old faithful is still in use, now you can tell me to piss off again, have a great year and be lucky
A good sharp spine makes all the difference in igniting feather sticks. I had a similar experience today. Feathered with a Fallkniven, but it doesn’t throw much of a spark. Pulled out an LT Wright, which has a spine sharper than a Beckers blade lol, and it lit right up. Night and day difference and much better than the included striker.
@@RobEvansWoodsman indeed. I was talking about the uncoated elmax R2. Still pretty weak at throwing sparks. LTs knives are like sharpened ice skates on the spine, it’s like ferro flame thrower.
@@RobEvansWoodsman it is good for a Fallkniven, but that’s no where near an LT Wright. Love the R2 though overall(besides the sheath), perhaps my favorite Fallky. Keep up the good work, I recently found your channel and am loving it. I like your no none sense approach. I have similar preferences in knives and tools it seems. Love a 3-4” blade and a saw. None of this basement ninja large chopper fetish a lot of others go for(who can’t begin to make a feather stick). Your knives look awesome BTW, might have to get on the list soon. Cheers.
Brilliant knife! They did some good design research for this one. You have to check out the R2 Scout, another thick blade with an awesome grind, a very good cutter and splitter. Love to see the match fire, probably the most used fire starting method worldwide through history. Thanks for another winning video!!
@Nikola Čavara slimmer? Not it’s not. The R2 has thicker blade stock than the regular F1 and the handle is ever so slightly thicker as well. The main difference besides blade length is the F1 is a full flat convex and the R2 is a sabre-vex(like the X series). I think what you’re describing would be an F1 classic handle with an F1X blade.
Nice woodidass tracksuit Rob. Loving your vids as always but you’re costing me a fortune. My eagle finally arrived and the master hunter has been a great addition. So sharp on arrival. Now the R2 scout is on the radar after previous comments! Must resist. By the way, I’ve never made and started so many fires after watching all your vids. Great advice and techniques, thank you 🙏
Impressive knife! Always useful to watch your review and how you manage to make your feathersticks. Humour, nice surrounding, great knives and useful comments, keep going, take care and thank you very much! (I must say that the knife you made by yourself, previously, is also impressive). 👍🤗
That chopping block is still wobbling like hell ! Thought you were going to fix/replace it. Wouldn't want to see you have a "nasty" . Good video, despite the wobbles .
That might make good entertainment watching me put an axe in my leg. I keep putting off sawing a new one as my Katanaboy is blunt and I don't have a chainsaw.
Many of the falkniven knives seem to have very thin handles. I’m sure many love that in their knife but I am not a fan of super thin handles. I would definitely like to see abs hold open in real life but not too many here use that brand. The majority of the folks in the Bushcraft group I am part of use knives made by the group blacksmith. Standard Bushcraft blades and scales. Perfection personified
I prefer carbon steel myself. Probably because I was never rich enough to buy the better class of stainless. :) Another great video Rob, keep up the good work. :)
Good video Rob - I like the Falkniven blades, apart from the false edge. Their handles are too small for my hands and if I was to change the scales, the sheath would no longer fit. So with three parts out of four being negative points, I'm looking elsewhere for an ideal knife.
Thank you for the video! I´m thinking of buying the F1X and A1X along with a siky Gomboy outback to have as a system on day hikes. I know it´s an investment but I think it would last a long time. Greetings from Sweden
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks for the feedback. My thinking was using the A1 instead of an axe for splitting wood and the F1 for everything else. Especially during winter it´s hard to find dry enough wood here in Sweden. In the summer I would probably just use the F1. Do you have a combo/system that you would use if were going out on a day hike and you wanted to make a fire to cook food?
I have so many tools I seldom take the same combo out, personally I'd use the A1x with something finer like a WM1, spyderco Paramilitary, locking large Victorinox, muilti tool or anything in thoes styles.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks! That is a good point. Maybe a smalle Mora would do the job as well. I tend to use stainless Moras for food prep and lighter tasks. I don´t know why but a rarely use folders in the wilderness, but maybe I should. I usually have folders (because of weight) when I backpack in northern Sweden. Very nice if you to give me some feedback :)
Great video as always Rob. It got me thinking......a fantastic pair of boots can be awful until you marry them up with the right pair of socks - happens to me all the time......I imagine a great knife but with annoying scales could be improved just with a cheap pair of mtb gloves? They'd maybe have light padding in just the right places? When I'm cycling I prefer my gloves with good ulnar nerve padding - the heel of the hand area - gripping handlebars isn’t a million miles away from gripping a knife when batoning for example? Santa was generous to me this year mate - a 2x72 grinder and a Robens base camp tipi.
I'll be investing in a 72" grinder next year, don't really have the room now, them Robens tents are great. I really suffer with numb hands on the bike, tried everything and nothing works.
Shell suits and fires. Lovely. People in the 80's were paying stupid money for those plastic fire hazards. Nice knife. I have smaller hands, might get away with the handle. Have you tried the Terava JakairriPuuko 110 from Varusteleka. Not such fancy steel but useful and about £70 from Finland with a chunky grippy handle.
Nice! Guess what knife will arive at my house today 😀. I was debating a dulo custom made because I don't like my F1 in cos that much. The handle is not how I like it, also the tip doesn't suit me. However I absolutely love my a1x. Once the grip weares in a little it actually is a really comfortable handle and the sheath is just perfect. Best retention, Safe, dangler, super lightweigt impervious to humidity and dirt. Way better than kydex! I have some badly scratched knives only because one spec of sand got into the kydex. Leather is often heavy. Often reviewers argue about the weight of the knife. But not about the weight with sheath. How does one carry a fixed knife without a sheath?😅 Add the convex grind and the great steel and you have great knives that are very save to use. No slippage and a great guard that somehow doesn't get in the way. So it will be a f1x. Final reason: a Saber grind with a mirror convex is just sexy!
Hi I have a f1 but in 3g and a f1x in cos and prefer the cos steel but I love the f1 handle ergo's, I hadn't thought to seek out a f1 in cos, my friend you may have just cost me money.......
Oh yes by the way dulo knives awesome.... Svetlozar is a star his communication is by no means prompt.... But what dulo produce are works of art. I bought a br bushcrafter in k390 my god what a blade
@@jenkinsmig Yeah his knives are beauties. I was debating about a full tang puukko saber convex in magnacut with scandi sheath. Surprisingly afforadable too. But for practicallity I chose the f1x. The A1x just left such a huge impression on me.
Great Video Rob. Nice Knife. I hope winter is treating you well up there. Been hot and dry here in New Zealand. My mate is a Falkniven Fan. I would have one of your knives hands Down any day. I am Fantasizing i couldn't afford one of your works of Knife Art. Take Care stay warm and Safe. Keep Smashing out more great videos brother.😁👊👍🤘🤙💥💥💥💥🔥🔥🔥🔪🔪🔪🤣
Great video as always, thanks Rob. Is the Big Boy Outback blade slightly thicker than the standard Big Boy replacement blade? I can't seem to find a reliable answer to this question, and I've been wondering if the Outback blade is worth the extra.
I don't think it's worth the extra as a replacement blade but I do like the handles on the outback series, I had an outback gomboy recently and I'm dying to try it out.
Hi Rob, thanks for the excellent videos! Given all your experience with the X line, would you pick a model with or without the tungsten carbide coating if you were doing it all over again?
I wouldn't bother with the coating, blades are stainless anyway. I bought the A1X with no coating and I now have the F1X ELMAX. I can't see no advantage to a civilian user, in fact I found the coating to be a hindrance for sharpening.
I love my F1x and I didn’t get the black edition due to the coating. A bit strange in a survival situation that it doesn’t work well with the ferro rod. I agree with the fact that the handle feels a bit thin. Since it is made for Swedish environment you are supposed to wear gloves with it but it is still a bit thin. I tried to ad a thin liner but then the sheath didn’t fit unfortunately. But I really like the sheath compared to the standard F1. I think the x series is perfect for survival purposes but since I always bring at least two knives out there is a knife for finer carving and cutting vegetables too. Thanks for sharing another great video mate!
I would have bought the satin blade from new but this one was second hand. Totally agree with everything you just said my friend. Take one knife into the bush? Not me sir!!lol.
Hi Rob, great video, i have a question regarding fallkniven sharpening, should i sharpen only the part where the cos steel sticks out? or the whole bevel? Thanks!!!
At first just the Cos bit but after about two sharpens you will probably need to go further up the blade because the convex will get too steep and it won't cut very well, l have found that they don't need sharpening very often just cutting wood.
Consider the S1x. It's a bit bigger than the F1 and not as big as the A1. A good all rounder in my opinion with a full tang, replaceable handles and a good steel.
Rob. A great video as usual thank you. Can I ask your opinion on the corrosion resistance ref the stainless sandwich construction? Also, what is the difference between the F1 and what is referred to as F1b?? Third part of question is...how easy is it to sharpen this grind either at home or in field without specific machine?? Thanks very much if you can offer info and opinions please. All the best. 😁
This knife is the F1xb as it has the blackened blade, the F1x is the same knife without the black coating. The F1pro is the same blade but with a fully enclosed handle and stainless bolster (meant for cold environment) The regular F1 is a very different knife. They are all very resistant to corrosion. As for sharpening, this Cos steel is excellent and unless you hit a rock with it it should not need field sharpening for a long time, diamond stones are best for sharpening in the field but don't expect it to look pretty unless you are quit skilled at sharpening convex blades, if you are in the Sh*t who cares about a pretty knife anyway! Hope that helps.
3 things... you might want to consider getting tested for carpal tunnel syndrome. Would a set of orange liners help the grip? You would need a new sheath at that point. Did your Ken Onion preserve the convex Saber grind? Excellent fire lighting tutorial. I always learn something new! Best wishes Rob :)
I probably have carpal tunnel syndrome. No point visiting a doctor, I've been waiting over three years to get my hydroseal sorted. I ground it a little steeper than I should have to maintain the grind perfectly but as you can see it works well.
Nice video! I have been considering this knife for a while now, how does it’s grind compare to the a1x en s1x? A video about that ken onion sharpener would be nice, been considering that as well 😁
The video is coming. I haven't sharpend the other two but I'm assuming that it'll be exactly the same. The grind I put on the F1x was the first time I used the "Onion" and I think it's a little steeper than the original convex, I think I'll make it shallower next time.
I can highly recommend the Ken Onion, even for a novice, I can get amazing results, and perhaps, more important, repeatable exact angles, time after time. You can use a coarser belt, then use a far finer after to get a toothy edge, or progress through the belts to get a highly polished edge, I really like the convex grids it does. I had bought an Ontario USAF survival knife that I had tried to re profile using my Spyderco Precision Knife Sharpening Kit, it was never ending, I gave up. I bought the Ken Onion, then finished in minutes! I so wish I hadn’t spent the money on other kits, it just seemed like a lot of money in one go- didn’t realise just how worth it it was!😁
@@brothersfromotherslb You won’t regret it! It does have a slight learning curve, ignore many of the videos of people “showing “ how to use it. Read the instructions and watch the actual official Ken Onion ones, so many people seem to put up “instructional” videos without apparently learning how to use it properly to begin with!😩🤣. You do need to keep a careful eye on how hot the edge is getting, especially with the coarser grits, and cool accordingly.
I think if you are looking for a hunting/fishing general purpose knife the regular F1 is best but for me processing wood and lighting fires I like the X .
@@RobEvansWoodsman It really p*sees me off that we can’t use eBay for buying and selling knives, there are some beauties on the American eBay.🤬. I’ve just bought the Ken Onion with the grinding attachment, it is amazing. Now I’m gutted I spent the money on the two Lansky sharpeners and a Spyderco one. I do like the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker and the little Lansky round rod one, but not up to re profiling an edge. The Lansky Precision Knife Sharpening Kit is just too faffy, takes too long and I’m not confident that you can accurately repeat the same angle. How can you fit the blade in the holder in exactly the same position each time? It does produce a brilliant edge, but the Ken Onion takes the biscuit! So simple😁.
I’ve used a Fallkniven S1 for the last twelve years or so in Northern Scandinavia on backpacking, canoe and kayak trips… never used anything other than a ferro rod on the spline to start a fire… from about September to April I carry a couple of “makeup remover” type Cotten pads with a small amount of Vaseline on to use if conditions are really damp to be 100% certain of being able to get a fire going… The geometry of the fire makes a huge difference to how effective the whole process is.
When I was a kid we used to light fires with a rolled up sheet of newspaper tied into a knot, very light and easy to carry in your haversack together with a small box of matches. Life seemed much simpler then!
It really was mate.
I’m thinking about getting one of these for sure. Very tough knife. Thank you for your work here. You helped me make up my mind.
She split real nice. Good curls too.
Thanks for sharing
Stay healthy brother
Thanks Sean.
Hi Rob! Just wanted to say I appreciate your work sir. I usually do a cross hatch pattern to start my fires. After watching your vid and watching how you stack the splits etc. I decided to try your way. Bravo sir you taught this old dog a new trick. Just wanted to let you know someone is employing your techniques! Keep the great vids rolling. Thanks again sir.
Thank you John , I really appreciate you telling me that.
Elmax the best steel
Nice review, solid knife, and nice accent! Keep it up. Kind regards Robert.
Really nice looking knife. Great video as always.
Thanks mate
I have the F1 in Cos whatever, I’ve been toying with getting a pro or this one, you’ve just made up my mind- this one!😁
nice no BS awesome splitter direct flame as ignition lovely to watch that went well bud
Cheers mate, I seldom mess up with the large matches and a handful of shavings.
Great knife and excellent technique brother👍
Another good one. 👍 And congratulations with your new knife. Great choice.
Yes Rob you star.... Another tidy blade another tidy vid.... Oh and cheers my silky gomboy with the straight blade has been delivered, I have had a play but this Saturday will be its time to shine.
Overnighter so 3o'clock coffee and munch to be ready for an early morning rabbit cull
Nice one Rob..it certainly took a beating, nice inventive fire lighting too 👍
Hi Stu.
That was my firelighting method before feather sticks and ferrorods.
Weird they did not give it a good spine. Yout commentaries explanations and tips are excellent. Thanks
The satin ones don't come with a sharp spine either, I was told that Peter the owner of Fallkniven really doesn't like ferrorods and therefore he thinks a sharp spine is pointless!
I always enjoy your posts
Thanks mate
I like watching all the flashy bushcrafty fire starting!!! But matches are cool….I’ll use a torch lighter if I’m having a problem with a fire start:)
Thankyou Rob as always, funny thing about my knives is this, the cheap mora stainless I use all the time performs better than some of my more expensive ones, I guess this is all about practice and habit, I still aint brought a knife that I didnt feel the need to grind the spine a bit for ferro sparking, I recently made some half decent feather sticks with a stanley knife, yeah I know no good for batoning or much else in bushcraft, anyway I see old faithful is still in use, now you can tell me to piss off again, have a great year and be lucky
Congrats on you're 5K subscribers!
Thank you.👍
Great feather sticks!
A good sharp spine makes all the difference in igniting feather sticks. I had a similar experience today. Feathered with a Fallkniven, but it doesn’t throw much of a spark. Pulled out an LT Wright, which has a spine sharper than a Beckers blade lol, and it lit right up. Night and day difference and much better than the included striker.
Coatings are never great for ferrorods or laminated blades with soft outers.
@@RobEvansWoodsman indeed. I was talking about the uncoated elmax R2. Still pretty weak at throwing sparks. LTs knives are like sharpened ice skates on the spine, it’s like ferro flame thrower.
My R2 is one of the better spines on a falky I own.
I sold the F1xb after I bought the F1x elmax.
@@RobEvansWoodsman it is good for a Fallkniven, but that’s no where near an LT Wright. Love the R2 though overall(besides the sheath), perhaps my favorite Fallky. Keep up the good work, I recently found your channel and am loving it. I like your no none sense approach. I have similar preferences in knives and tools it seems. Love a 3-4” blade and a saw. None of this basement ninja large chopper fetish a lot of others go for(who can’t begin to make a feather stick). Your knives look awesome BTW, might have to get on the list soon. Cheers.
@@shamitoson l do use big knives occasionally, I'm guilty of owning quite a few.
Brilliant knife! They did some good design research for this one. You have to check out the R2 Scout, another thick blade with an awesome grind, a very good cutter and splitter. Love to see the match fire, probably the most used fire starting method worldwide through history. Thanks for another winning video!!
Thanks Mike , I'll probably get the R2 pretty soon.
That would be very similar to a regular F1 but in elmax.
@Nikola Čavara slimmer? Not it’s not. The R2 has thicker blade stock than the regular F1 and the handle is ever so slightly thicker as well. The main difference besides blade length is the F1 is a full flat convex and the R2 is a sabre-vex(like the X series). I think what you’re describing would be an F1 classic handle with an F1X blade.
Nice woodidass tracksuit Rob. Loving your vids as always but you’re costing me a fortune. My eagle finally arrived and the master hunter has been a great addition. So sharp on arrival. Now the R2 scout is on the radar after previous comments! Must resist.
By the way, I’ve never made and started so many fires after watching all your vids. Great advice and techniques, thank you 🙏
I've alway been a bad influence!
Not had my first Fallkniven long and its definitely a great feeling knife. Very tactile handle and makes my curls a lit finer.
Impressive knife! Always useful to watch your review and how you manage to make your feathersticks. Humour, nice surrounding, great knives and useful comments, keep going, take care and thank you very much! (I must say that the knife you made by yourself, previously, is also impressive). 👍🤗
Good to know many ways to light a fire but in a situation where your life depends on it matches are a no brainer.
Dave Cantabury hates them.
Knob!!
That chopping block is still wobbling like hell ! Thought you were going to fix/replace it. Wouldn't want to see you have a "nasty" . Good video, despite the wobbles .
That might make good entertainment watching me put an axe in my leg.
I keep putting off sawing a new one as my Katanaboy is blunt and I don't have a chainsaw.
Many of the falkniven knives seem to have very thin handles. I’m sure many love that in their knife but I am not a fan of super thin handles. I would definitely like to see abs hold open in real life but not too many here use that brand. The majority of the folks in the Bushcraft group I am part of use knives made by the group blacksmith. Standard Bushcraft blades and scales. Perfection personified
I mainly use my own knives but I do like to try out good quality factory knives.
I prefer carbon steel myself. Probably because I was never rich enough to buy the better class of stainless. :) Another great video Rob, keep up the good work. :)
Nothing wrong with carbon mate👍
lol. Liked the outtakes.
I have the r2 and the handle is very small ,but it works just fine as a neck knife up side down .
It dose look small.
like always a joy watching your videos , i am wondering if you are going to make yourself a different handle to your liking
Good video Rob - I like the Falkniven blades, apart from the false edge. Their handles are too small for my hands and if I was to change the scales, the sheath would no longer fit. So with three parts out of four being negative points, I'm looking elsewhere for an ideal knife.
Thats what happend with the s1x, i basically paid over £200 for a blade.
@@RobEvansWoodsman yeah, the s1x is at this weird middle can do it all spot. Not small Like the f1x but also not a beast like the a1x.
Thank you for the video!
I´m thinking of buying the F1X and A1X along with a siky Gomboy outback to have as a system on day hikes. I know it´s an investment but I think it would last a long time.
Greetings from Sweden
Overkill taking both those knives at the same time if that's your intention.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks for the feedback. My thinking was using the A1 instead of an axe for splitting wood and the F1 for everything else. Especially during winter it´s hard to find dry enough wood here in Sweden. In the summer I would probably just use the F1. Do you have a combo/system that you would use if were going out on a day hike and you wanted to make a fire to cook food?
I have so many tools I seldom take the same combo out, personally I'd use the A1x with something finer like a WM1, spyderco Paramilitary, locking large Victorinox, muilti tool or anything in thoes styles.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks! That is a good point. Maybe a smalle Mora would do the job as well. I tend to use stainless Moras for food prep and lighter tasks. I don´t know why but a rarely use folders in the wilderness, but maybe I should. I usually have folders (because of weight) when I backpack in northern Sweden.
Very nice if you to give me some feedback :)
@@TheLapierre ruclips.net/video/6GwEQ0gavp0/видео.html
Great video as always Rob.
It got me thinking......a fantastic pair of boots can be awful until you marry them up with the right pair of socks - happens to me all the time......I imagine a great knife but with annoying scales could be improved just with a cheap pair of mtb gloves? They'd maybe have light padding in just the right places?
When I'm cycling I prefer my gloves with good ulnar nerve padding - the heel of the hand area - gripping handlebars isn’t a million miles away from gripping a knife when batoning for example?
Santa was generous to me this year mate - a 2x72 grinder and a Robens base camp tipi.
I'll be investing in a 72" grinder next year, don't really have the room now, them Robens tents are great.
I really suffer with numb hands on the bike, tried everything and nothing works.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Same here - Specialized body geometry gloves sorted me out, about £20 on ebay.
Shell suits and fires. Lovely. People in the 80's were paying stupid money for those plastic fire hazards. Nice knife. I have smaller hands, might get away with the handle. Have you tried the Terava JakairriPuuko 110 from Varusteleka. Not such fancy steel but useful and about £70 from Finland with a chunky grippy handle.
I didn't like the 110 or 140 Jakkari pukkos.
Fallkniven are in a different league. I have the S1 Pro and it's a beauty.
i can remember shellsuits being very flammable as well......lol
Nice! Guess what knife will arive at my house today 😀. I was debating a dulo custom made because I don't like my F1 in cos that much. The handle is not how I like it, also the tip doesn't suit me. However I absolutely love my a1x. Once the grip weares in a little it actually is a really comfortable handle and the sheath is just perfect. Best retention, Safe, dangler, super lightweigt impervious to humidity and dirt. Way better than kydex! I have some badly scratched knives only because one spec of sand got into the kydex. Leather is often heavy. Often reviewers argue about the weight of the knife. But not about the weight with sheath. How does one carry a fixed knife without a sheath?😅 Add the convex grind and the great steel and you have great knives that are very save to use. No slippage and a great guard that somehow doesn't get in the way. So it will be a f1x. Final reason: a Saber grind with a mirror convex is just sexy!
I make Kydex sheaths but I know exactly what you mean about grit and scratches, pain in the butt!
Hi
I have a f1 but in 3g and a f1x in cos and prefer the cos steel but I love the f1 handle ergo's, I hadn't thought to seek out a f1 in cos, my friend you may have just cost me money.......
Oh yes by the way dulo knives awesome.... Svetlozar is a star his communication is by no means prompt.... But what dulo produce are works of art. I bought a br bushcrafter in k390 my god what a blade
@@jenkinsmig Yeah his knives are beauties. I was debating about a full tang puukko saber convex in magnacut with scandi sheath. Surprisingly afforadable too. But for practicallity I chose the f1x. The A1x just left such a huge impression on me.
@@jenkinsmig We should have initiated an exchange. 😀 I will sell my F1 in cos.
Great Video Rob. Nice Knife. I hope winter is treating you well up there. Been hot and dry here in New Zealand. My mate is a Falkniven Fan. I would have one of your knives hands Down any day. I am Fantasizing i couldn't afford one of your works of Knife Art. Take Care stay warm and Safe. Keep Smashing out more great videos brother.😁👊👍🤘🤙💥💥💥💥🔥🔥🔥🔪🔪🔪🤣
Wet here most of the time, dry and cold today 👍
@@RobEvansWoodsman 😪 on a positive note. It is easier to warm up than cool down brother.😊👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Very true, spoken with the wisdom of Solomon!
Great video as always, thanks Rob. Is the Big Boy Outback blade slightly thicker than the standard Big Boy replacement blade? I can't seem to find a reliable answer to this question, and I've been wondering if the Outback blade is worth the extra.
I don't think it's worth the extra as a replacement blade but I do like the handles on the outback series, I had an outback gomboy recently and I'm dying to try it out.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks! Always appreciate your input.
Hi Rob, thanks for the excellent videos! Given all your experience with the X line, would you pick a model with or without the tungsten carbide coating if you were doing it all over again?
I wouldn't bother with the coating, blades are stainless anyway.
I bought the A1X with no coating and I now have the F1X ELMAX.
I can't see no advantage to a civilian user, in fact I found the coating to be a hindrance for sharpening.
I love my F1x and I didn’t get the black edition due to the coating. A bit strange in a survival situation that it doesn’t work well with the ferro rod.
I agree with the fact that the handle feels a bit thin. Since it is made for Swedish environment you are supposed to wear gloves with it but it is still a bit thin. I tried to ad a thin liner but then the sheath didn’t fit unfortunately. But I really like the sheath compared to the standard F1.
I think the x series is perfect for survival purposes but since I always bring at least two knives out there is a knife for finer carving and cutting vegetables too.
Thanks for sharing another great video mate!
I would have bought the satin blade from new but this one was second hand.
Totally agree with everything you just said my friend.
Take one knife into the bush? Not me sir!!lol.
Great knife overall, but it seems I'm gonna freeze to death if I will have to rely on it for fire lightning.
🤣🤣
She’s a splitter!😊
Hi Rob, great video, i have a question regarding fallkniven sharpening, should i sharpen only the part where the cos steel sticks out? or the whole bevel? Thanks!!!
At first just the Cos bit but after about two sharpens you will probably need to go further up the blade because the convex will get too steep and it won't cut very well, l have found that they don't need sharpening very often just cutting wood.
Do you have a video showing how you made the sawhorses?
I'm not sure , it was a while ago.
If you can only have 1 fallkniven which one would you keep and why?
A1x or pro, depending on budget, it'll do everything.
Always enjoy your videos Rob... I don’t own a Falkniven... if you were to suggest just one good all around one... which model would it be... ATB 👍
Consider the S1x. It's a bit bigger than the F1 and not as big as the A1. A good all rounder in my opinion with a full tang, replaceable handles and a good steel.
It's funny because I don't feel the need to change the scales on the A or F but the S really needed thicker scales.
Depends on size and budget mate.
Rob. A great video as usual thank you. Can I ask your opinion on the corrosion resistance ref the stainless sandwich construction? Also, what is the difference between the F1 and what is referred to as F1b?? Third part of question is...how easy is it to sharpen this grind either at home or in field without specific machine?? Thanks very much if you can offer info and opinions please. All the best. 😁
This knife is the F1xb as it has the blackened blade, the F1x is the same knife without the black coating.
The F1pro is the same blade but with a fully enclosed handle and stainless bolster (meant for cold environment)
The regular F1 is a very different knife.
They are all very resistant to corrosion.
As for sharpening, this Cos steel is excellent and unless you hit a rock with it it should not need field sharpening for a long time, diamond stones are best for sharpening in the field but don't expect it to look pretty unless you are quit skilled at sharpening convex blades, if you are in the Sh*t who cares about a pretty knife anyway!
Hope that helps.
@@RobEvansWoodsman excellent reply thanks. I am very interested in your opinion over the sharpening difficulty of this grind if possible? Cheers.
您好，对户外生活来说选择S1X还是F1X，这两个长度让人很难取舍，因为我没有使用过它们，希望听取您的建议！谢谢
I'd prefer the F1x it's slightly shorter with better balance and is capable of everything the larger s1x can do.
Is the blade different on the F!XB compared to the F1 Pro other than the coating?
exactly the same blade.
I dont know what it is I just prefere the X.
Nice looking knife. Is it still in your rotation?
I sold it to a friend when I bought the F1X ELMAX, if I hadn't had the ELMAX I would have kept it.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I watched your other video, and just purchased the F1X ELMAX. Thanks for your insights!
@@steveb8001 don't listen to me I'm a mad man!?
@@RobEvansWoodsman LOL. You know your stuff Rob. Looking forward to getting the F1X into the woods.
@@steveb8001 thanks for the vote of confidence, last week I had a comment saying that I lacked the skills to use an ESEE 6.
3 things... you might want to consider getting tested for carpal tunnel syndrome. Would a set of orange liners help the grip? You would need a new sheath at that point. Did your Ken Onion preserve the convex Saber grind? Excellent fire lighting tutorial. I always learn something new! Best wishes Rob :)
I probably have carpal tunnel syndrome.
No point visiting a doctor, I've been waiting over three years to get my hydroseal sorted.
I ground it a little steeper than I should have to maintain the grind perfectly but as you can see it works well.
Do you prefer the f1x to the h1 (cos steel)?
Thanks.
both excellent steels and two very different knives, with an axe the h1 without the f1x.
Nice video! I have been considering this knife for a while now, how does it’s grind compare to the a1x en s1x?
A video about that ken onion sharpener would be nice, been considering that as well 😁
The video is coming.
I haven't sharpend the other two but I'm assuming that it'll be exactly the same.
The grind I put on the F1x was the first time I used the "Onion" and I think it's a little steeper than the original convex, I think I'll make it shallower next time.
I can highly recommend the Ken Onion, even for a novice, I can get amazing results, and perhaps, more important, repeatable exact angles, time after time. You can use a coarser belt, then use a far finer after to get a toothy edge, or progress through the belts to get a highly polished edge, I really like the convex grids it does. I had bought an Ontario USAF survival knife that I had tried to re profile using my Spyderco Precision Knife Sharpening Kit, it was never ending, I gave up. I bought the Ken Onion, then finished in minutes! I so wish I hadn’t spent the money on other kits, it just seemed like a lot of money in one go- didn’t realise just how worth it it was!😁
@@Mat-kr1nf thanks man! Probably I’m prob gooing to buy it now…
@@brothersfromotherslb You won’t regret it! It does have a slight learning curve, ignore many of the videos of people “showing “ how to use it. Read the instructions and watch the actual official Ken Onion ones, so many people seem to put up “instructional” videos without apparently learning how to use it properly to begin with!😩🤣. You do need to keep a careful eye on how hot the edge is getting, especially with the coarser grits, and cool accordingly.
Hi Rob can I ask how would u compare the f1x to regular f1? Lots of folks preferring the standard f1 over this or pro?
Great vid as always, cheers
I think if you are looking for a hunting/fishing general purpose knife the regular F1 is best but for me processing wood and lighting fires I like the X .
I would really appreciate and enjoy if you make a video concerning convex edge blades sharpening!
In the winter months, maybe!
I bought the Ken Onion grinder and attachment because I really don't like hand sharpening convex grinds!
How close are you to a major airport sir?
Cardiff airport is an hour away, Heathrow is three hours.
Why?
the sound of flying aircraft was in the background of your video!
Cardiff international airport is only 50 miles away and the flight path to the USA is overhead.
Lovely knife Rob...Where do you find knifes in the 2nd hand market mate ?? Hope all is good with you Rob :-)
This one came from the Fallkniven Facebook group.
Facebook bushcraft/survival/ knife buy and sell groups are your best bet these days.
@@RobEvansWoodsman It really p*sees me off that we can’t use eBay for buying and selling knives, there are some beauties on the American eBay.🤬. I’ve just bought the Ken Onion with the grinding attachment, it is amazing. Now I’m gutted I spent the money on the two Lansky sharpeners and a Spyderco one. I do like the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker and the little Lansky round rod one, but not up to re profiling an edge. The Lansky Precision Knife Sharpening Kit is just too faffy, takes too long and I’m not confident that you can accurately repeat the same angle. How can you fit the blade in the holder in exactly the same position each time? It does produce a brilliant edge, but the Ken Onion takes the biscuit! So simple😁.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thank you Rob :-)
I bought a custom from Adrian Etheridge in RWL-34 its a beautiful thing , but I use it, so its not a glass box knife
Too many fairies with drawer queen knives out there and they are all very opinionated!
I was going to send you a gift, how would I go about that?
That's very kind of you.
Email me and I'll send you my address robevs73@googlemail.com
Who‘s your old friend (13.08)? Casström?
My bushtool in S30v .
@@RobEvansWoodsman Really nice! Do you still sell those?
Yes,
@@RobEvansWoodsman Do you share a link to your web-shop? How do I contact you on this topic?
@@lojung6093 I don't have a website and I've stopped taking names on my waiting list as it's getting too long.