Thank you for the concise video it was very helpful to me as I am building a new modern-style home. I have done much research on RUclips concerning this and yours is the only video that gave me good objective information without trying to sell me something.
Really enjoying your videos Charlie. We are building a custom home in Melbourne and finding your experiences especially with P50 shadowlines and in-srceed vs in-slab hydronic very helpful. Keep them coming.
Hey Nick, glad they're helpful! Thank you for engaging with the content ☺️. Yeah P50 and hydronic are two really tricky/confusing ones! Any other video ideas for me 😁?
great presentation. As a DIY home owner, i chose to use shadow line after seeing it in another home. to keep cost down i utilized plastic tear away L strip setting an 1/8 inch gap. yes it is more labor, but not much more material cost doing it this way.
Important and useful tips. Thanks. One question that was not covered is choosing the best size of shadow gap. I think on doors it depend on the width of your door frame/jam. For ceilings you may need to consider large gaps that allow for window blinds or lighting etc. (floating ceiling effect). It is worth noting that building fire regs can come into play (20mm UK for example). The work around is to double board to maintain fire reg compliance. For larger gaps (particularly ceiling) the whole void will need to be lined with gypsum panels to maintain fire separation or similar. Nothing can beat shadow gap for a contemporary look with hardwood frames. However, if not done neatly and 100% straight, it looks truly awful. There is zero forgiveness.
I have shadowline skirting and door jambs, external doors I just copied the rebate of the internal jambs I got, pretty sure I got them of intrim mouldings, pine skirting with bevelled edges with 10mm rebate and jabms rebated with 10mm and just set with pvc L angle, yet to set the joints. I think its the best way to do it, very strong
0:09 Tip 1: Frame preparation 0:59 Tip 2: Skirting profile 2:09 Tip 3:Jamb profile 3:30 Tip 4: Flooring 5:07 Tip 5: Think beyond shadowlines 5:53 Tip 6: Collaboration is key 6:35 Tip 7: Homeowners...
Some really good tips and other considerations I had not even thought about. The main reason why I arrived here is because I am looking for the best solution for installing the floor. Here in the UK given the types of houses we have and cheap floor coverings I will likely finish with a laminate floor. I am sorry but I did not really understand what you were saying at 4:38 so again in simple terms what order should I install things in please?
1. Hang plaster sheet off the floor 2. Test fit skirting and remove (Optional) 3. Install flooring 4. Cover edge of flooring with skirting 5. Finish plaster Alternatively, you could 1. Hang plaster 2. Install skirting 3. Install floorboard butting up to skirting 4. Install trim piece to cover gap/imperfections between flooring and skirting This second option would yield a very ugly result in my opinion as you are adding in a trim piece after going to all that trouble to recess a trim piece. Thanks for watching!
@@charleyli9363 Cool thanks.... I am interested in reveal base but yes annoying..... looks like i have to install the flooring as I do the drywalling. Plasterers are so messy so ill have to look at something decent to cover up the floor. Thanks and great video
doing this for our cellar revamp in the uk. its very uncommon here but with this video and hours searching managed to find our equivalent of a p50, Is there anything specifically to note when doing it on a brick/ cement wall. great video again
Make sure it’s straight all the way up and down 😊 Perhaps screed/batten the wall out first to ensure straight, plumb surface? Send me some photos on Ig @charley_li! Thanks for watching
Is there any instruction video or product recommendations for doing shadow gap baseboards on a solid masonry wall? Most walls where I live are brick with a cement topping for leveling that is then finished with plaster ... no drywall or plaster board.
Its been a year plus since you made this comment, and I’m here right now, with a project on my sleeve hoping to do a shadow gap on a blockwork with cement plaster, please if you’ve found a solution to it, I wouldn’t mind if you shared, Thank you.
@@evansekemini9262 I never got a response, but I can tell you that we ended up having the plaster finish the wall to the desired height. He did not do a consistent job, but fortunately the carpenter who did the baseboard install was able to tweak the height of the baseboards so it is not so noticeable.
Quick question: Is it possible to completely soundproof a room with shadow skirts? The reason I ask is because all the videos I've seen on properly soundproofing require using green glue / acoustic seal on all the trims. This seems hard to do with shadow shirts, and I've never seen it done in any vid. But is it doable?
As a painter shadow lines are painful and there’s no way in the world I’d install them in my place. There’s always gaps that need sealing at the back edge of the shadow line that is so difficult to get into even with a little finger. So it’s extremely slow and didficult. Shadow line architraves and skirts are not only expensive to install they are far more costly to paint.
On jobs I've been on the door frames are removed for painting. Skirting details not so easy... if you can remove or fit after painting then that is best.
you could just do the shadow at the base where floor and wall meet, this way you can do it with a F like channel, and it makes it rather straight forward. no need for the shadow to be set up high..thats actually the point of getting a gallery like finish, specially with the concrete polish floor.
I like this look and was wondering if this would be much simpler. I think the gyprock first then floor then the P50 (no baseboard) I guess it would be very fragile. But shouldn’t be too expensive to finish off
I need to fix a rough opening. I’m installing a 4/4 VG Fir jamb and things are out of plumb and the opposing side is in the kitchen so no room for casing. It backs up to the fridge.
Hi Charley, in a renovation converting existing skiting and architrave to square set. What if you just wanted to square set the architraves for doors and windows without the hassle of doing the skirting. How would you finish the skirting DAR where it would normally meeting the architrave?
Thanks for making this video. I am currently looking into what goes into doing these details and your video has great information.
Thank you for the concise video it was very helpful to me as I am building a new modern-style home. I have done much research on RUclips concerning this and yours is the only video that gave me good objective information without trying to sell me something.
Great video man! This was exactly the kind of video i needed to watch before deciding whether or not to attempt this on my crooked old house.
Really enjoying your videos Charlie. We are building a custom home in Melbourne and finding your experiences especially with P50 shadowlines and in-srceed vs in-slab hydronic very helpful. Keep them coming.
Hey Nick, glad they're helpful! Thank you for engaging with the content ☺️. Yeah P50 and hydronic are two really tricky/confusing ones! Any other video ideas for me 😁?
I watched it all! Very informative and well articulated. Thanks man.
Excellent videowork, succint, clear and easy to follow with good visual examples. you're a pro mate.
Too kind, Cheers.
great presentation. As a DIY home owner, i chose to use shadow line after seeing it in another home. to keep cost down i utilized plastic tear away L strip setting an 1/8 inch gap. yes it is more labor, but not much more material cost doing it this way.
Mate, great video. Informative and coherent. Thanks.
Looks 👍 how is this done with existing home / rehab
Great honesty, learning culture...
Excellent.
thanks for your tips. I watch through all the video which is very useful. I am going to build Shadowline in my new house :-).
Brilliant vid mate
Important and useful tips. Thanks. One question that was not covered is choosing the best size of shadow gap. I think on doors it depend on the width of your door frame/jam. For ceilings you may need to consider large gaps that allow for window blinds or lighting etc. (floating ceiling effect). It is worth noting that building fire regs can come into play (20mm UK for example). The work around is to double board to maintain fire reg compliance. For larger gaps (particularly ceiling) the whole void will need to be lined with gypsum panels to maintain fire separation or similar. Nothing can beat shadow gap for a contemporary look with hardwood frames. However, if not done neatly and 100% straight, it looks truly awful. There is zero forgiveness.
I have shadowline skirting and door jambs, external doors I just copied the rebate of the internal jambs I got, pretty sure I got them of intrim mouldings, pine skirting with bevelled edges with 10mm rebate and jabms rebated with 10mm and just set with pvc L angle, yet to set the joints. I think its the best way to do it, very strong
0:09 Tip 1: Frame preparation
0:59 Tip 2: Skirting profile
2:09 Tip 3:Jamb profile
3:30 Tip 4: Flooring
5:07 Tip 5: Think beyond shadowlines
5:53 Tip 6: Collaboration is key
6:35 Tip 7: Homeowners...
Some really good tips and other considerations I had not even thought about. The main reason why I arrived here is because I am looking for the best solution for installing the floor. Here in the UK given the types of houses we have and cheap floor coverings I will likely finish with a laminate floor. I am sorry but I did not really understand what you were saying at 4:38 so again in simple terms what order should I install things in please?
1. Hang plaster sheet off the floor
2. Test fit skirting and remove (Optional)
3. Install flooring
4. Cover edge of flooring with skirting
5. Finish plaster
Alternatively, you could
1. Hang plaster
2. Install skirting
3. Install floorboard butting up to skirting
4. Install trim piece to cover gap/imperfections between flooring and skirting
This second option would yield a very ugly result in my opinion as you are adding in a trim piece after going to all that trouble to recess a trim piece.
Thanks for watching!
@@charleyli9363 Cool thanks.... I am interested in reveal base but yes annoying..... looks like i have to install the flooring as I do the drywalling. Plasterers are so messy so ill have to look at something decent to cover up the floor. Thanks and great video
Great video. What does p-50 actually mean
You can always do a dado on the skirting board to get some resemblance to a shadow line.
Great tips, thanks, if only I saw this yesterday 🙃😃
doing this for our cellar revamp in the uk. its very uncommon here but with this video and hours searching managed to find our equivalent of a p50, Is there anything specifically to note when doing it on a brick/ cement wall. great video again
Make sure it’s straight all the way up and down 😊 Perhaps screed/batten the wall out first to ensure straight, plumb surface?
Send me some photos on Ig @charley_li!
Thanks for watching
Is there any instruction video or product recommendations for doing shadow gap baseboards on a solid masonry wall? Most walls where I live are brick with a cement topping for leveling that is then finished with plaster ... no drywall or plaster board.
Its been a year plus since you made this comment, and I’m here right now, with a project on my sleeve hoping to do a shadow gap on a blockwork with cement plaster, please if you’ve found a solution to it, I wouldn’t mind if you shared, Thank you.
@@evansekemini9262 I never got a response, but I can tell you that we ended up having the plaster finish the wall to the desired height. He did not do a consistent job, but fortunately the carpenter who did the baseboard install was able to tweak the height of the baseboards so it is not so noticeable.
@@jimwilcox946 oh great, do you mind sharing a photo or video of how it turned out please?
running flooring up to your framing is easy and preferred for a reveal look.
Brilliant !
Quick question:
Is it possible to completely soundproof a room with shadow skirts? The reason I ask is because all the videos I've seen on properly soundproofing require using green glue / acoustic seal on all the trims. This seems hard to do with shadow shirts, and I've never seen it done in any vid. But is it doable?
Thanks for sharing. It looks too slick to pass up!
Is it more expensive than all the purchasing baseboards, installer and then painting and caulking baseboard?
What door jambs would you recommend? for shadowline
Great video and tips!!
Hey Matt, thanks for watching and commenting! It means a lot to me.
As a painter shadow lines are painful and there’s no way in the world I’d install them in my place. There’s always gaps that need sealing at the back edge of the shadow line that is so difficult to get into even with a little finger. So it’s extremely slow and didficult. Shadow line architraves and skirts are not only expensive to install they are far more costly to paint.
On jobs I've been on the door frames are removed for painting. Skirting details not so easy... if you can remove or fit after painting then that is best.
Tip 7 👍👌
😅 important to coach your clients in some capacity and help them make the best decision.
you could just do the shadow at the base where floor and wall meet, this way you can do it with a F like channel, and it makes it rather straight forward. no need for the shadow to be set up high..thats actually the point of getting a gallery like finish, specially with the concrete polish floor.
I like this look and was wondering if this would be much simpler. I think the gyprock first then floor then the P50 (no baseboard)
I guess it would be very fragile. But shouldn’t be too expensive to finish off
Thanks Charley.
Thanks for watching :)
I need to fix a rough opening. I’m installing a 4/4 VG Fir jamb and things are out of plumb and the opposing side is in the kitchen so no room for casing. It backs up to the fridge.
Is it a rabbet or rebated skirt?
Hi. What kind of backsplash did you use on the wall behind you? Thank you
That's a natural stone material called Dolomite (kind of like marble). This particular colour is called Super White.
@@charleyli9363 Thank you for your prompt answer
Hi Charley, in a renovation converting existing skiting and architrave to square set.
What if you just wanted to square set the architraves for doors and windows without the hassle of doing the skirting.
How would you finish the skirting DAR where it would normally meeting the architrave?
Hey there, has anybody come seen shadow gap as skirting? What do you think about that?
Cool.
Cheers!