How to Replace Rear Caliper - Dodge Grand Caravan & Many Other Dodge/Chrysler models!
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- In this video we'll show you how to change the Rear Caliper for your Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Town & Country - and many other Dodge & Chrysler models!
AMAZON LINKS:
Rear Calipers - Pair (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3HHHUOH
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/4bkg1tw
Rear Calipers - Pair (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3w7Zzwc
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3OtLvn0
Rear Caliper Single - Left Driver Side (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/48VmxVW
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3UlstmP
Rear Caliper Single - Right Passenger Side (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3Ul8Dbi
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/42wri5Z
Rear Caliper Single - Left Driver Side (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/42l6UEZ
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3w1s7HM
Rear Caliper Single - Right Passenger Side (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/49ejZCJ
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/42mnWm7
Rear Brake Hose - Left Drivers Side (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3SnlXt2
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3usVZMJ
Rear Brake Hose - Right Passenger Side (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3Ulas88
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3SnxIQi
Rear Brake Hose - Left Drivers Side (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/482Ip0u
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3OssgdO
Rear Brake Hose - Right Passenger Side (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/4bk3pTf
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3vYsiDU
Rear Rotors - Pair (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/42otmNf
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/48TR0nk
Rear Rotars - Pair (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3OtIR0y
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3HHpfTd
Rear Brake Pads (STANDARD*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3w36ZB5
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/42rfZvJ
Rear Brake Pads (HEAVY DUTY*):
Amazon USA: amzn.to/49nHnxb
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3w2hi8s
Flare Nut Wrench Set
Amazon USA: amzn.to/47VljJ2
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/42s1qs8
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3umBPUH
Brake Grease
USA: amzn.to/3NOjkPZ
Canada: amzn.to/44ooyaK
UK: amzn.to/3pqygud
Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3uMCD57
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3uRpqrO
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3RhsXHu
Brake Cleaner
Amazon USA: amzn.to/3BlowUk
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3pyTjue
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3BhDXgq
* Not sure if your Grand Caravan/Town & Country has STANDARD or HEAVY DUTY brakes? Take a quick look at our video here: • How to tell if your Gr...
CHAPTERS:
0:00 Intro
0:25 Overview
2:02 Removing Caliper
4:30 Removing Caliper Bracket
4:46 Importance of the Flexi-Hose Brake Line
7:24 Preparing the new Caliper
9:29 Removing the old Caliper and Brake Line
10:28 Fitting the new Brake Line
12:13 Preparing & Fitting the Caliper Braket
13:45 Fitting the Brake Pads
16:18 Fitting the new Caliper
17:31 Bleeding the Brakes
23:29 Seating the Piston
24:21 Testing Parking Brake
24:36 Final Thoughts
CORRECTIONS:
8:50 The correct torque for the Banjo bolt should be 24Nm (18 ft lbs), and NOT 47Nm (35 ft lbs) as shown
17:26 The correct torque for the Banjo bolt should be 24Nm (18 ft lbs), and NOT 47Nm (35 ft lbs) as shown.
USEFUL LINKS:
1) How to detatch your handbrake cable:
• How to Detach Remove P...
2) How to Attach your Handbrake Cable:
• How to Attach Parking ...
3) How to tell if your Grand Caravan has Heavy Duty or Standard Brakes:
• How to tell if your Gr...
4) How to remove a Seized Rear Brake Caliper:
• How to Remove a SEIZED...
5) How to Replace Your Rear Brake Rotors and Pads
• How to Change REAR Bra...
VIDEO BY YOU WRENCH 
Авто/Мото
Need new calipers?
Rear Pair
USA: amzn.to/3qDS5wm
Canada: amzn.to/3Htf4Ac
Rear Drivers Side
USA: amzn.to/3CntRIP
Canada: amzn.to/3wP3RVK
Rear Passenger Side
USA: amzn.to/30wzxD1
Canada: amzn.to/30wzxD1
Thank you so much , this is the only channel I could find a break line removal.
Whole comments section is full of people that dont pay attention.
Thank you for your videos very helpful.
super AWESOME... Would have like to have seen the emergency brake disconnect and reconnect... But overall the best I've seen on this
Video of disconnect and reconnect is in the description he said that in the video also
@@patrickpuma Yeah I was bouncing through, so I probably missed him saying that... Thanks for following up...
Doing this task on a 2010 Town and Country tomorrow. I feel like I have a good grasp of the process. Thanks for the video.
Going to start adding my kitty litter in my pan in advance. Great unmentioned tip. Thanks
I liked that touch also! I use puppy pads under my oil pale when changing oil, antifreeze n transmission; now all I need is to incorporate wood chips and I'll have a majority of the pet Kingdom covered.
Amazing video, was able to do the job myself and saved loads of cash, thank you!!
Thanks for the tip about the brake line. Pretty sure that was probably my whole problem in the first place. Probably didn't even need to replace the caliper but since I already had it lol. Thanks for your videos. I've fixed this van more than once with your help.
It should of course be noted that the 5th gen vans have 2 different brake sizes available starting with the mid-gen refresh, with the larger variant being roughly 1" larger and are dual piston front calipers instead of single. To be specific, small fronts are 302mm, large are 330mm, small rear are 305mm, large are 328mm. The larger brakes require the 17" wheels not the 16". The ones in the video are the smaller version, they have the bleeder and banjo bolt at about a 90° angle relative to each other, the large brake rear calipers have them almost parallel to each other, thus there are also 2 different sets of rear brake hoses with slightly different bends at the caliper banjo bolt end to compensate.
Also I like how you ran enough new fluid through to get rid of the darkened old stuff, new being almost clear.
Yes, great tips very welcome! There are indeed two caliper types, so worth checking in advance which you have. The basic process is the same, but parts are different. Thanks for sharing! :-)
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Thank you. I'll be attempting this soon and this will surely help.
Perfect! You're welcome!
Awesome video. Too bad you couldn't replace the pad and rotors at the same time. I love all your videos.
Thank you, much appreciated! We have done a complete rotor and pad replacement video for the Grand Caravan which may be of interest to you: ruclips.net/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/видео.html - Thanks again! 👍
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! ! The nubs on the inside brake pad must line up with the notches in the piston. I learned this the hard way ! ! You can rotate the top of the caliper piston to align the notches with the nubs.
what happened when you did not line up at first? I noticed this alignment luckily before I assembled parts back, and wonder what happens if not aligned
Good video to watch. I am replacing my caliper soon. I hope it goes smoothly.
Best of luck!
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Great tutorial 👍🏻 You do a great job at instructing with details on how the system works to teach others. Thanks for taking the time to create your content (video/editing). New Subscriber & Liked.
Thank you, that is very much appreciated!
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Thank you so much for your videos. They have been very helpful. I can't get over how many people here aren't paying attention to the links and references to the separate videos you've made. One concern, though - we twisted off one of the new banjo bolts (hollow bolt between the brake hose and the caliper), then looked into it more. You refer to 35 ft-lbs., but we've seen a few other references elsewhere of 18 ft.-lbs.
try following manufacturer documentation.
Thank you for detailed description. But I have a question. If I change two front calipers on both sides, should I bleed all four brake after? My van is Dodge Grand Caravan, 2013.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, FOR THAT LINK.
Thank you :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench
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Great video!
Just a suggestion the stainless shims for the pads if you want to grease under them to slow rust build-up fine but not on them as dirt abd dist and brake dust or other debris can stick to the grease or lube and cause it to clog or wedge the pads. Regular maintenance such as every 10 thousand miles or so just remove the pads and clean those shims and make sure slider pins still function well.
Great video thanks from US
You don't show the e-brake removal, which is all I wanted to see.
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: ruclips.net/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/видео.html
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@@YouWrench For what it's worth I thought it was very clearly outlined, including the cable detachment.
Agreed!
youre right didnt show the cable to removed
@@macfady2181 Not only that, but how hard could it possibly be to figure it out? It’s super simple and you don’t need any specialty tools.
Thanks for taping the parking brake action.
No problem, glad it helped :-)
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Before pumping the brake pedal open the bleeder screw and gravity bleed the caliper.
I’m doing mine now after only going a year with ceramic pads and anti seize all up in my slide pins. Had a pin freeze up and the outer pad was down to the backing and grinding the rotor.
My question is regarding the copper washers for the brake line to the caliper. My calipers came with 2 but my originals are pretty stuck on the hose side.
Yes, these rear calipers can be a real pain and really don't last as long as they should!! For the slide pins ideally try not to use anti sieze (copper grease) as it's not designed for this. You should really use a moly grease, something that is designed for CV Joints is ideal as it's designed for metal on metal lubrication and safe to use with rubber boots. This process is not shown in this video as this is replacing with a brand new caliper, but you can check out our brake rotor change video for more details on that if needed.
With regards the copper washers, yes should be one each side of the banjo connector as shown in this video and they should not be stuck, especially as they are copper. Once the bolt is out the wahsers should be easy to remove. If not, you may have to get a bit more heavy handed with them. Worst case you could TRY and leave the one side on and test it a lot once fitted to check for leaks, just be prepared that if you do get a leak then you'll have to remove and refit again.
Or do you mean they are stuck on the hose, rather than the caliper? If so, replace the hose. It's always a good idea to replace to hose, as covered in the video.
Best of luck!!
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thank you for letting us know the bolt sizes.. It is a small step that goes a long way.. But if your replacing the rubber line You better bet your day that the brake line bolt doesnt twist inside the line and leak. You will be there for a few hours trying to fix it.
Glad you enjoyed our video :-) Yes, those brake line connectors can be a REAL pain as they get older and more corroded etc. They can lead to a nightmare!!
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Is an Excellent Video.👍
Thank you! :-)
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Thanks!
You bet!
How do you rate the Cardone caliper? would you use it again?
Where is the spot where you reconnect the emergency brake cable to the new caliper? I've watched twice and can't find that procedure
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable. That video is here: ruclips.net/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/видео.html - hope that helps!
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I have a question. I have replaced the rear caliper on my 2012 grand caravan and I am having leaks around the brakeline where it attaches to the caliper. I don't want to over tighten. If I have it tight enough does that mean the brakeline is going bad? I have cleaned it up
Hey there! Where the flexi hose attaches to the caliper, you should ensure to use a new washer if reusing the old hose on a new caliper, and also to ensure it is torqued up to the correct spec. It sounds like it's either not torqued up tight enough, or you have a bad washer? That would be what I'd be checking first anyway. Hope that helps! Best of luck!
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Thanks
Great video! Very detailed and informative - you really did a nice job!
Two questions:
1. If you're doing both driver & passenger side rear calipers, would you bleed the brake lines out 1 at a time, as you do each one? Or wait until you replaced both brake lines and then try to do them together?
2. Does the caliper bracket need to be replaced if you replace the caliper? Or do you just recommend it for some reason? I guess I see that the auto part stores sell the bracket with the caliper, so I suppose you'd just do both if you get them both.
Thank you!
1) Do them one at a time, and check out our video on how to bleed the brakes on the GC to see the correct order, and be sure to start with the correct one first as per the order in the brake bleed video.
2) No, you can use the old caliper bracket, but as most calipers come with them (i.e. no extra cost) it seems a waste to leave the old rusty one on.
Hope that helps!
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As noted, most calipers will come with new brackets, and new guide pins. The main reason to replace the bracket is that a lot of times you'll have at least one significantly corroded or frozen guide pin.
Big help. .Only good video on this topic
Thank you, that's much appreciated! :-)
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Is it recommended to replace both calipers or is it ok to replace just one of them?
You can absolutely replace just one, provided that the other one is in good working order of course :-)
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How did you get the piston to push against the pad? I have been bleeding and bleeding and bleeding. I can't get the piston to move towards the pads. Its a brand new caliper too
Hey there! That's odd. Did you make sure to close off the bleed valve on the caliper after bleeding? Once the system is closed again, pressing the brake pedal will move the piston. If the valve remains open it will just let more fluid out and the piston will never move. Ensure it's closed and gently pump the brake pedal a few time. Hope that helps!
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why u are not changing the disk in sametime it look totaly done. but thank you for your video. its help.
We did the full rear rotors/discs and pads change in a separate video you can check it out here: ruclips.net/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/видео.html Hope it helps!
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Would you dab a little anti seize on that brake line connection?
Personally, no I wouldn't. It's not normally needed. Hope that helps!
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Did u ever make a video for replacing the pads, believe it was referenced in the video, but I can't find it
Yes we did, It can be found here: ruclips.net/video/RTN2q0CTXVw/видео.html
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The only part of this job I had trouble with is the part they didnt show and that is re-attaching the handbrake cable to the new caliper. My cable would not reach the new caliper no matter how I tried to pull and coax it to fit. Suggestions?
He has a link precisely about that very part, Link no. 2 🙂
Beat me to the reply, thank you!!
why does my caliper has no spring?? Grand caravan 2015, both rear sides no spring, the caliper looks the same as this video as far as I can tell, but the spring is NOT there. Given both sides have no spring, it DOES look like no spring from day one, but it is so weird. Anyone else noticed the same?
Helo plis size a gasket brake hose to caliper
great video! However, I didn't see how you attached the emergency brake cable. It was a major pain for me to do it and I thought I would see if you had a better way.
There is a separate video for that.
Thank you, yes! There is indeed a seperate video for that, as linked in the video description. Hope that helps!
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You failed to show how to reconnect the hand brake cable
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-)
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Great video except you didn’t show attaching emergency brake cable…
It's actually a separate video, and there is a link for it in the video description :-)
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HOW DID YOU GET THE FUKN E BRAKE CABLE OFF AAAAAAAAAH
The link is in the video description:
1) How to detatch your handbrake cable:
ruclips.net/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/видео.html
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that banjo bolt torque setting correction should be overlaid on the video, it's easy to miss if you don't read the description near the bottom or far enough down the comments... that feeling when you're tightening and then it goes loose again and it's 9pm in the dark outside in light rain... not so great.
Go just ahead of the drivers rear wheel. There is a splitter/evener that turns 1 cable into two. Make a softener from a few layers of a ceral box. Pull down on the cable to get slack and Vicegrip the softener around cable so it can't retract to hold slack in the cable.
This gives lots of slack at both rear calipers. Use needlenose to squeeze tabs and can unhook rears in about 15 seconds and you are not fighting against a spring.
Great tip
Did I miss the part where you showed us how to remove the parking brake cable????
It's explained within the video that we have done a seperate video for attaching the parking brake cable and there is a link within the Video Description. That link is this one: ruclips.net/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/видео.html - hope that helps!
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Now, we’ll reattach the E-brake cable [skips over the process for the hardest part of the job] The E-brake cable is now reattached.
No, not skipped over at all... 23:26 explains very clearly that there is a seperate video for it, and a link in the video description. Here is the link again: ruclips.net/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/видео.html - hope that helps!
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Good video thank you… ….everyone going on about the parking brake…no problems there…than I broke my brake line bolt …it said 35 ft/lbs….you did that …….???????
now that I look online it’s 90-120 inch pounds for a banjo bolt… not to exceed 144inch pounds….that’s 12ft lbs…..35ft/lbs is 420 inch pounds …….you might want to edit that………I should have known….
Now canadian tire does not have one …Saturday evening …hope brake line crimped until Monday does not leak….
That’s how it goes for me …lol
Yes, the banjo bolt on this caliper is 35ft lbs, as per the Dodge workshop manual. Hope that helps!
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@@YouWrench I found this online...it talks about a concave bolt being stretched or broken..
It looks like the bolt I just got from the dealer after braking the other one... the dealer would be giving the weak ones out...the parts person would not give me any specs......
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCMN-17V122-2758.pdf
I don’t understand why he didn’t show us how to put cable back or off of it
If you check the video description there is a link to the cable detachment video - as we mention in this video. Hope that helps!
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You skipped right over removing the hand brake line...
It's actually explained in the video, and there is a link to the dedicated video on reattaching the cable in the descriptive text on this video. Hope that helps :-)
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@@YouWrench Maybe I just missed it haha.
Your videos are great :)
He skip the important part installing and removing emergency brake cable
Do you mean the separate dedicated video that's referenced within this video, and there a link is in the description too? This one: ruclips.net/video/2IGfpvTh1vM/видео.html
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The handbrake cable just magically popped back on by itself
No, not really :-) Please see 23:26 and then ruclips.net/video/LNY1FnZwG2g/видео.html. Hope that helps :-)
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What's something that you pay but it doesnt cost you anything?
Attention
not a bad video BUT...putting a new caliper on old brake disc and pads is a crime !!!! - they are so cheap - just replace them too !!!! a set of 2 discs and 4 pads is literally 80 bucks online
Agreed! I think it's explained in the video, but this was only temporary whilst waiting for the new discs and pads to be delivered. That said, not everyone can afford to replace everything at the same time (remembering that the $80 you mentioned is on top of the price of the caliper), but if you can it's definitely good practice to put everything on nice and fresh with the new calipers, especially as these cars do indeed have generally pretty cheap parts :-)
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Thanks!
Great video and explanation! Thank you for the camera angles and descriptions. Saved me a lot of time and money!
Thank you for your kind comments and Super Thanks support! We are very much appreciative! Glad to hear that you enjoyed our video and that we helped you to get the job done! Thanks again!